V'V 


SPECIAL  COLLECTIONS 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


*-  -» 

,  i  ,.      *  1 


THE 

COOK'S  OWN    BOOK: 

BEING    A    COMPLETE 

CULINARY  ENCYCLOPEDIA: 

COMPREHENDING  ALL   VALUABLE  RECEIPTS 

FOR    COOKING    MEAT,   FISH,   AND    FOWL, 

AND  COMPOSING   EVERT  KIND  OF 

SOUP,  GRAVY,  PASTRY,  PRESERVES,  ESSENCES,  &c. 

THAT  HAVE   BEEN   PUBLISHED  OR   INVENTED 

DURING   THE    LAST   TWENTY   YEARS. 

PARTICULARLY  THE  VERT  BEST  OF  THOSE  IN  THE 

COOK'S    ORACLE,   COOK'S    DICTIONARY,   AND    OTHER   SYSTEMS    OF 
DOMESTIC  ECONOMY. 

WITH 

•NUMEROUS    ORIGINAL    RECEIPTS, 

AMD  A  COMPLETE   SYSTEM  OF 

CONFECTIONERY. 


BY  A  BOSTON    HOUSEKEEPER. 


ALPHABETICALLY  ARRANGED. 


PUBLISHED 
IN  BOSTON,  BY  MUNROE  AND  FRANCIS ;       ' 

NEW  YORK,  BY  CHARLES  S.  FRANCIS,  AND  DAVID  FELT;  PHILADLi  .,..1 
BY  CAKEY  AND  LEA,  AND  GRIGG  AND  ELLIOT. 

1832. 


Entered,  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1832,  by 

MCNROE  &  FRANCIS, 
In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  Massachusetts. 


PREFACE. 


THE  cook  exercises  a  greater  power  over  the  public  health  and 
welfare  than  the  physician,  and  if  he  should  be  a  charlatan  in  his  art, 
alas !  for  his  employers.  Hitherto,  or  until  of  late  years,  the  cook 
has  had  to  educate  himself,  while  the  physician  appropriates  all  the 
knowledge  of  antiquity,  and  of  every  succeeding  age;  his  individual 
cases  are  all  classed  according  to  general  principles,  while  the  rules 
that  have  regulated  the  preparation  of  our  food,  have  been  discordant 
and  unnatural.  In  the  present  age,  indeed,  cookery  has  been  raised 
to  the  dignity  of  an  art,  and  sages  have  given  their  treatises  to  the 
world.  Very  has  a  monument  in  the  cemetery  of  P£re  La  Chaise, 
among  the  tombs  of  warriors,  poets,  and  philosophers,  recording  of 
his  life  that  'it  was  consecrated  to  the  useful  arts.'  Virgil  however, 
writes  that  the  best  delights  of  Elysium  were  showered  upon  those 
who  received  wounds  for  their  country,  who  lived  unspotted  priests, 
who  uttered  verses  worthy  of  Apollo,  or  who,  like  V3ry,  consecrated 
their  lives  to  the  useful  arts.  On  the  utilitarian  principle  the  cook 
should  be  much  elevated  in  public  estimation,  and  were  he  to  form  a 
strict  alliance  with  the  physician,  the  patriarchal  ages  would  return, 
and  men  would  die  of  nothing  but  sheer  old  age. 

After  insanity,  the  most  grievous  affliction  of  Providence,  or  rather 
of  improvidence  and  imprudence,  is  Dyspepsy :  a  malady  that  under 
different  names  has  decimated  the  inhabitants  of  civilized  countries, 
and  of  almost  all  countries,  in  which  man  is  a  'cooking  dnimal.'  To 
the  dyspeptic,  the  sun  has  no  cheering  ray,  the  air  no  elasticity  or 
balm ;  the  flowers  are  without  fragrance,  music  is  without  melody, 
and  beauty  without  charms.  Life  is  a  blank ;  affection  has  lost  its 
power  to  soothe,  and  the  blessings  scattered  by  Providence,  are  con- 
verted into  ministers  of  torment.  Food  becomes  a  bane ;  the  very 
staff  that  supports  life,  gives  the  flagellation  that  renders  life  a  curse. 
All  that  can  delight  is  lost, — but  all  that  can  depress  and  sting,  has  a 
tenfold  activity  and  power. 


IV  PREFACE. 

\ 

The  dyspeptic's  '  May  of  life,  has  fallen  into  the  sear,  the  yellow 
leaf.'  Sleep  that  should  visit  every  pillow  but  that  of  guilt,  is  to  him 
no  friend ;  if  he  slumbers,  it  is  to  dream,  like  Clarence,  of  hideous 
forms  of  suffering,  and  to  wake  to  their  reality.  This  is  but  a  faint 
picture  of  Dyspepsy. 

'  Her  gloomy  presence  saddens  all  the  scene, 
Shades  every  flower  and  darkens  every  green, 
Deepens  the  murmur  of  the  falling  floods, 
And  breathes  a  browner  horror  on  the  woods.' 

This  malady  is  beyond  the  science  of  the  physician,  but  within  the 
art  of  the  cook ;  in  the  proverb,  Doctor  Diet  is  ranked  above  Doctor 
Quiet  and  Doctor  Merryman ;  though  all  are  good. 

The  late  Mr.  Abernethy  referred  almost  all  maladies  to  the  stom- 
ach, and  seldom  prescribed  any  remedy  but  a  proper  diet.  This  it  is 
the  province  of  the  cook  to  provide ;  and  the  design  of  this  book  to 
indicate.  The  work  is  not  designed  to  spread  a  taste  for  pernicious 
luxuries:  and  every  recipe  has  been  sanctioned  by  custom.  The 
responsibility  of  the  cook  is  lightened,  and  his  duty  facilitated.  He 
has  here  a  dictionary  of  reference,  an  encyclopedia  of  his  art.  The 
details  are  full,  and  the  authority  is  perfect.  There  were  various 
works  of  merit  that  it  was  useful  for  the  cook  to  study,  but  here  are 
collected  ihe  best  parts  of  all,  with  the  convenience  of  alphabetical 
arrangement,  and  in  the  compass  of  a  moderate  volume.  If  it  is  a 
sin  to  waste  the  best  gifts  of  Providence,  it  should  be  little  less  than 
a  felony  to  spoil  them.  When  we  have  collected  the  materials  for  a 
house,  we  never  trust  the  building  to  an  unskilful  architect:  yet  we 
are  often  obliged  to  commit  the  preparation  of  our  feasts  as  well  as 
of  our  common  food,  to  agents  without  knowledge.  This  knowledge 
is  now  supplied. 

More  than  health  depends  on  the  proper  preparation  of  food :  our 
very  virtues  are  the  creatures  of  circumstances,  and  many  a  man  has 
hardened  his  heart,  or  given  up  a  good  resolution,  under  the  operation 
of  indigestion.  Who  that  knows  the  world,  ever  solicits  with  confi- 
dence a  friendly  or  charitable  act  of  another  before  dinner. 

The  natural  and  moral  world  are  reciprocally  dependent ;  soul  and 
body  are  so  linked,  that  when  one  loses  its  tone  the  other  is  deprived 
of  its  equanimity.  The  system  of  morals  therefore  becomes  identi- 
fied with  that  of  cookery,  and  the  great  English  moralist,  who  was 
learned  in  both  systems,  thus  spoke  of  the  connexion  ;  '  Some  peo- 
ple '  said  Doctor  Johnson,  '  have  a  foolish  way  of  not  minding,  or  of 
pretending  not  to  mind,  what  they  eat.  I  for  my  part  mind  my  belly 
very  studiously,  and  very  carefully,  and  I  look  upon  it  that  he  who 
does  not  mind  his  belly  will  hardly  mind  any  thing  else.' 


PREFACE.  V 

It  has  been  the  study  of  the  author,  to  make  every  recipe  plain, 
and  the  proportions  certain ;  little  is  left  to  discretion,  that  could  be 
reduced  to  measure.  The  system  of  confectionery  is  perfect ;  and  if 
strictly  followed  every  cook  may  become  a  first  rate  confectioner. 
Labor,  care,  and  expense  have  been  bestowed  upon  the  work,  and  the 
publishers  feel  so  secure  of  its  merit,  and  of  the  public  want  of  such  a 
took,  that  they  have  caused  it  to  be  stereotyped.  This  would  have 
been  hazardous  with  a  novel  or  almost  any  literary  work ;  but  the 
n umber  of  those  who  eat  is  far  greater  than  of  those  who  read.  A 
good  book  few  can  estimate;  all  can  enjoy  a  good  dinner,  and  the 
publishers  anticipate  a  proportionate  encouragement. 

Having  devised  this  work  for  families,  we  hope  that  it  may  offend 
no  one,  that  we  give  a  word  of  counsel  to  domestics:  our  book  may 
be  every  way  good,  yet  will  its  usefulness  be  much  impaired  if  do- 
mestics are  not  docile  and  faithful. 

We  have  fortunately,  in  this  country,  but  one  class  of  people :  all 
are  free,  and  all  are  politically  equal.  Our  domestics  are  in  New 
England  designated  as  help,  to  indicate  that  they  are  the  equals,  and 
assistants,  rather  than  the  inferiors  of  their  employers.  Yet  the 
feeling  of  independence  may  be  carried  too  far,  and  it  may  be  ungra- 
ciously expressed.  There  is  no  disgrace,  and  there  should  be  no 
shame  in  filling  well  a  subordinate  station;  the  hired  ploughman, 
maid,  or  cook  are  not,  in  an  offensive  sense,  any  more  the  servants  of 
their  employers,  than  the  merchant  and  the  lawyer.  All  these  engage 
to  perform  certain  services  for  an  equivalent,  and  it  is  the  duty  of  all 
to  do  them  faithfully. 

The  number  of  domestics  is  very  large  —  perhaps  the  average  is 
five  to  four  families — and  it  may  be  even  greater.  Yet,  unfortunate- 
ly for  their  welfare,  interest,  or  character,  they  are  almost  constantly 
shifting,  and  in  few  families  do  they  remain  long.  In  England,  a 
good  domestic  is  often  provided  for  during  life,  and  it  is  a  desirable 
situation.  It  might  be  so  here,  if  our  domestics  would  strive  to  ac- 
commodate themselves  to  their  situation.  There  is  hardly  a  family, 
in  which  a  kind,  respectful,  and  faithful  domestic  might  not  be  retained 
for  years,  and  at  the  best  wages.  Here  then  is  a  home,  comfort,  and 
friends.  Yet  the  greater  number  are  contented  to  live  a  few  month.* 
in  a  place,  till  the  best  years  of  life  have  slipped  away,  without  pro- 
vision for  age,  and  without  friends,  or  home.  The  proverb  of  the 
rolling  stone  contains  the  best  lesson  for  domestics. 

Service  in  any  department  is  no  sacrifice  of  independence.  A 
domestic  is  in  all  things  as  free  as  any  other  class,  but  it  is  ,. 
bad  kind  of  independence  that  would  lead  one,  when  desired  to  do  «. 


VI  PREFACE. 

thing  in  the  line  of  a  common  employment,  to  do  it  ungraciously, 
and  rather  as  an  irksome  or  unjust  task,  than  as  a  duty. 

Minor  vexations,  frequently  repeated,  are  equal  to  greater  individ- 
ual calamities ;  as  many  small  enjoyments  constitute  much  of  the 
pleasures  of  life.  Around  the  social  board  every  member  of  the  fam- 
ily is  collected  thrice  at  least  in  twenty-four  hours.  Thither  the 
head  of  the  family  returns  from  the  labors  or  cares  of  his  business  to 
recruit  his  strength  and  to  relax  his  mind.  If  he  return  to  a  table 
constantly  and  invariably  ill  spread ;  to  a  dinner  to  which  he  could 
invite  no  friend,  and  in  which  he  can  have  no  enjoyment;  a  cloud 
will  gather  on  the  calmest  brow,  and  a  feeling  of  dissatisfaction  may 
be  extended  to  other  things.  It  is  not  beneath  the  solicitude  of  a 
good  wife,  who  would  not  suffer  any  abatement  in  the  affection  of 
which  she  is  the  object,  diligently  to  study  this  book,  and  constantly 
to  provide  a  neat  and  well  dressed  repast. 

BOSTON,  March,  1832. 


*4S.*  The   articles   which  follow,   on   Roasting,    Boiling,  Sfc.  are 
selected  from  the   Cook's   Oracle. 


MANAGEMENT    OF  FAMILIES. 


IN*  domestic  arrangement  the  table  is  entitled  to  no  small  share 
of  attention,  as  a  well  r.in<lurt<'tl  <v-tem  of  domestic  management 
is  the  foundation  of  ev<  r\-  comfort;  and  the  respectability  and 
welfare  of  families  depend  in  a  great  measure  on  the  prudent 
conduct  of  the  female,  whose  province  it  is  to  manage  the  domes- 
tic concerns. 

Hmvever  the  fortunes  of  individuals  may  support  a  large  expen- 
diture, it  will  be  deficient  in  all  that  can  benefit  or  grace  society, 
and  in  every  thing  essential  to  moral  order  and  rational  happiness, 
if  not  conducted  on  a  regular  system,  embracing  all  the  objects 
of  such  a  situation. 

In  domestic  management,  as  in  education,  so  much  must  depend 
on  the  particular  circumstances  of  every  case,  that  it  is  impossibly 
to  lay  d  )\>  11  a  svstem  which  can  be  generally  applicable. 

The  immediate  plan  of  every  family  must  be  adapted  to  its  own 
peculiar  situation,  and  can  only  result  from  the  good  sense  and 
early  good  habits  of  the  parties,  acting  upon  general  rational 
principles. 

What  one  family  is  to  do,  must  never  be  measured  by  what 
another  family  does.  Each  one  knows  its  own  resources,  and 
should  consult  them  alone.  What  might  be  meanness  in  one, 
might  be  extravagance  in  another,  and  therefore  there  can  be  no 
standard  of  reference  but  that  of  individual  prudence.  The  most 
fatal  of  all  things  to  private  families,  is  to  indulge  an  ambition  to 
make  an  appearance  above  their  fortunes,  professions,  or  business, 
whatever  these  may  be. 

The  next  point,  both  for  comfort  and  respectability,  is,  that  all 
the  household  economy  should  be  uniform,  not  displav  ing  a  parade 
of  show  in  one  thing,  and  a  total  want  of  comfort  in  another.  Be- 
sides the  contemptible  appearance  that  this  must  have  to  every 
person  of  good  sense,  it  is  productive  of  consequences,  not  only  of 
present,  but  future  injury  to  a  family,  that  are  too  often  irreparable. 

In  urea!  cities  in  particular,  how  common  is  it  that  for  the  vani- 
ty of  having  a  showy  drawing-room  to  receive  company,  the  family 
are  confined  to  aclose'back  room,  where  they  have  scarcely  either 
air  or  light,  the  want  of  which  must  materially  prejudice  their 
health. 

To  keep  rooms  for  show,  where  the  fortune  is  equal  to  having 
a  hou~e  that  will  accommodate  the  family  properly,  and  admit  of 
this  also,  belongs  to  the  'ni^ln^t  sphere  of  life;  but  in  private  fam- 
ilies, to  shut  up  the  only  room  perhaps  in  the  house  which  is  really 
wholesome  for  the  family  to  live  in,  is  inflicting  a  kind  of  lingering 


Vlll  FAMILY    MANAGEMENT. 

murder  upon  the  inmates;  and  yet  how  frequently  this  considera- 
tion escapes  persons  who  mean  well  by  their  family,  but  who  still 
have  a  grate,  a  carpet,  and  chairs,  too  fine  for  every  day's  use. 

Another  fruit  of  this  evil  is,  seeing  more  company,  and  in  a 
more  expensive  manner  than  is  compatible  with  the  general  con- 
venience of  the  family,  introducing  with  it  an  expense  in  dress, 
and  a  dissipation  of  time,  from  which  it  suffers  in  various  ways. 

Social  intercourse  is  not  improved  by  parade,  but  quite  the 
contrary;  real  friends,  and  the  pleasantest  kind  of  acquaintance, 
those  who  like  to  be  sociable,  are  repulsed  by  it.  It  is  a  failure 
therefore  every  way — the  loss  of  what  is  really  valuable,  and  an 
abortive  attempt  to  be  fashionable. 

A  fundamental  error  in  domestic  life  of  very  serious  extent, 
involving  no  less  the  comfort  than  the  health  of  the  family,  arises 
from  the  ignorance  or  mistaken  notions  of  the  mistress  of  the  house 
upon  the  subjects  of  diet  and  cookery. 

The  subject  of  cookery  is  thought  by  too  many  women  to  be 
below  their  attention,  or,  when  practically  engaged  in,  it  is  with 
no  other  consideration  about  it  than,  in  the  good  housewife's 
phrase,  to  make  the  most  of  every  thing,  whether  good,  bad,  or 
indifferent;  or  to  contrive  a  thousand  mischievous  compositions, 
both  savory  and  sweet,  to  recommend  their  own  ingenuity. 

If  cookery  is  worth  studying,  as  a  sensual  gratification,  it  is 
surely  much  more  so  as  a  means  of  securing  one  of  the  greatest  of 
human  blessings — good  health;  and  we  cannot  quit  this  part  of  the 
subject  of  domestic  management  without  observing,  that  one  cause 
of  a  great  deal  of  injurious  cookery  originates  in  the  same  vanity 
of  show  that  is  productive  of  so  many  other  evils.  In  order  to 
set  out  a  table  with  a  greater  number  of  dishes  than  the  situation 
of  the  family  requires,  more  cookery  is  often  undertaken  than 
there  are  servants  to  do  it  well,  or  conveniences  in  the  kitchen  for 
the  purpose.  Thus  some  viands  are  done  before  they  are  wanted 
for  serving  up,  and  stand  by  spoiling,  to  make  room  for  others; 
these  are  again  perhaps  to  be  succeeded  by  something  else;  and 
too  often  are  things  served  up  that  had  better  be  thrown  away, 
than  to  be  used  for  food. 

The  leading  consideration  about  food  ought  always  to  be  its 
wholesomeness.  Cookery  may  produce  savory  and  pretty  looking 
dishes  without  their  possessing  any  of  the  qualities  of  food.  It  is 
at  the  same  time  both  a  serious  and  ludicrous  reflection  that  it 
should  be  thought  to  do  honor  to  our  friends  and  ourselves  to  set 
out  a  table  where  indigestion  and  all  its  train  of  evils,  such  as 
fever,  rheumatism,  gout,  and  the  whole  catalogue  of  human  dis- 
eases lie  lurking  in  almost  every  dish.  Yet  this  is  both  done,  and 
taken  as  a  compliment.  We  have  indeed  the  "  unbought  grace 
of  polished  society,  where  gluttony  loses  half  its  vice  by  being 
stripped  of  its  grossness."  When  a  man  at  a  public  house  dies  of 
a  surfeit  of  beef  steak  and  porter,  who  does  not  exclaim,  what  a 
beast! 


COOKING    UTENSILS.  IX 

How  infinitely  preferable  is  a  dinner  of  far  less  show  where 
nobody  need  be  afraid  of  what  they  are  eating!  and  such  a  one 
will  be  genteel  and  respectable.  If  a  person  can  give  his  friend 
only  a  leg  of  mutton,  there  is  nothing  to  be  ashamed  of  in  it,  pro- 
vided it  is  a  good  one,  and  well  dressed. 

A  house  fitted  up  with  plain  good  furniture,  the  kitchen  fur- 
nished with  clean  wholesome-looking  cooking  utensils,  good  fires, 
in  grates  that  give  no  anxiety  lest  a  good  fire  should  spoil  them, 
clean  good  table  linen,  the  furniture  of  the  table  and  sideboard 
good  of  the  kind,  without  ostentation,  and  a  well-dressed  plain 
dinner,  bespeak  a  sound  judgment  and  correct  taste  in  a  private 
family,  that  place  it  on  a  footing  of  respectability  with  the  first 
characters  in  the  country.  It  is  only  the  conforming  to  our  sphere, 
not  the  vainly  attempting  to  be  above  it,  that  can  command  true 
respect. 

COOKING  UTENSILS. 

The  various  utensils  used  for  the  preparation  and  keeping  of 
food  are  made  either  of  metal,  glass,  pottery  ware,  or  wood;  each 
of  which  is  better  suited  to  some  particular  purposes  than  the 
others.  Metallic  utensils  are  quite  unfit  for  many  uses,  and  the 
knowledge  of  this  is  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  health  in 
general,  and  sometimes  to  the  prevention  of  immediate  dangerous 
consequences. 

The  metals  commonly  used  in  the  construction  of  these  vessels 
are  silver,  copper,  brass,  tin,  iron,  and  lead.  Silver  is  prefera- 
ble to  all  the  others,  because  it  cannot  be  dissolved  by  any  of  the 
substances  used  as  food.  Brimstone  unites  with  silver,  and  forms 
a  thin  brittle  crust  over  it,  that  gives  it  the  appearance  of  being 
tarnished,  which  may  be  accidentally  taken  with  food;  but  this 
is  not  particularly  unwholesome,  nor  is  it  liable  to  be  taken  often, 
nor  in  large  quantities.  The  discoloring  of  silver  spoons  used 
with  eggs  arises  from  the  brimstone  contained  in  eggs. — Nitre  or 
saltpetre  has  also  a  slight  effect  upon  silver,  but  nitre  and  silver 
seldom  remain  long  enough  together  in  domestic  uses  to  require 
any  particular  caution. 

Copper  and  brass  are  both  liable  to  be  dissolved  by  vinegar, 
acid  fruits,  and  pearl-ash.  Such  solutions  are  highly  poisonous, 
and  great  caution  should  be  used  to  prevent  accidents  of  the  kind. 
Vessels  made  of  these  metals  are  generally  tinned,  that  is,  lined 
with  a  thin  coating  of  a  mixed  metal,  containing  both  tin  and  lead. 
Neither  acids,  nor  any  thing  containing  pearl-ash,  should  ever  be 
suffered  to  remain  above  an  hour  in  vessels  of  this  kind,  as  the 
tinning  is  dissolvable  by  acids,  and  the  coating  is  seldom  perfect 
over  the  surface  of  the  copper  or  brass. 

The  utensils  made  of  what  is  called  block  tin  are  constructed 
of  iron  plates  coated  with  tin.  This  is  equally  to  be  dissolved  as 
the  tinning  of  copper  or  brass  vessels,  but  iron  is  not  an  unwhole- 


X  DIET. 

some  substance,  if  even  a  portion  of  it  should  be  dissolved  and 
mixed  in  the  food.  Iron  is  therefore  one  of  the  safest  metals  for 
the  construction  of  culinary  utensils;  and  the  objection  to  its  more 
extensive  use  only  rests  upon  its  liability  to  rust,  so  that  it  requires 
more  cleaning  and  soon  decays.  Some  articles  of  food,  such  as 
quinces,  orange  peel,  artichokes,  &.c.  are  blackened  by  remaining 
in  iron  vessels,  which  therefore  must  not  be  used  for  them. 

Leaden  vessels  are  very  unwholesome,  and  should  never  be 
used  for  milk  and  cream,  if  it  be  ever  likely  to  stand  till  it  become 
sour.  They  are  unsafe  also  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  salted 
meats. 

The  best  kind  of  pottery  ware  is  oriental  china,  because  the 
glazing  is  a  perfect  glass,  which  cannot  be  dissolved,  and  the 
whole  substance  is  so  compact  that  liquid  cannot  penetrate  it. 
Many  of  the  English  pottery  wares  are  badly  glazed,  and  as  the 
glazing  is  made  principally  of  lead,  it  is  necessary  to  avoid  put- 
ting vinegar,  and  other  acids  into  them.  Acids  and  greasy  sub- 
stances penetrate  into  unglazed  wares,  excepting  the  strong  stone 
ware;  or  into  those  of  which  the  glazing  is  cracked,  and  hence 
give  a  bad  flavor  to  any  thing  they  are  used  for  afterwards.  They 
are  quite  unfit  therefore  for  keeping  pickles  or  salted  meats. 
Glass  vessels  are  infinitely  preferable  to  any  pottery  ware  but 
oriental  china,  and  should  be  used  whenever  the  occasion  admits 
of  it. 

Wooden  vessels  are  very  proper  for  the  keeping  many  articles 
of  food,  and  should  always  be  preferred  to  those  lined  with  lead. 
If  any  substance  has  fermented  or  become  putrid  in  a  wooden 
cask  or  tub,  it  is  sure  to  taint  the  vessel  so  as  to  make  it  liable  to 
produce  a  similar  effect  upon  any  thing  that  may  be  put  into  it  in 
future.  It  is  useful  to  char  the  insides  of  these  wooden  vessels 
before  they  are  used,  by  burning  wood  shavings  in  them,  so  as  to 
coat  the  insides  with  a  crust  of  charcoal. 

As  whatever  contaminates  food  in  any  way  must  be  sure,  from 
the  repetition  of  its  baneful  effects,  to  injure  the  health,  a  due 
precaution  with  respect  to  all  culinary  vessels  is  necessary  for  its 
more  certain  preservation.  There  is  a  kind  of  hollow  iron  ware 
lined  with  enamel,  which  is  superior  to  every  other  utensil  for 
sauces  or  preserves:  indeed  it  is  preferable  for  every  purpose. 


DIET. 

That  we  require  food,  as  vegetables  require  water,  to  support 
our  existence,  is  the  primary  consideration  upon  which  we  should 
take  it.  But  in  our  general  practice  of  eating,  it  cannot  be  said, 
"we  eat  to  live,"  but  are  living  passages  or  channels,  through 
which  we  are  constantly  propelling  both  solids  and  fluids,  for  the 
sake  of  pleasing  our  palates,  at  the  severe  cost  often  of  our  whole 
system. 


DIET.  XI 

A  reasonable  indulgence  in  the  abundant  supplies  of  nature, 
converted  by  art  to  the  purposes  of  wholesome  food,  is  one  of  the 
comforts  added  to  the  maintenance  of  life.  It  is  an  indiscriminate 
gratification  of  our  tastes,  regardless  of  the  consequences  that 
may  ensue  from  it,  that  is  alone  blamable.  But  so  great  is  our 
general  apathy  in  these  respects,  .that  even  on  the  occurrence  of 
diseases,  from  which  we  are  all  more  or  less  sufferers,  we  scarce- 
ly ever  reflect  on  our  diet,  as  the  principal,  if  not  the  sole  cause 
of  them.  We  assign  them  to  weather,  to  infection,  to  hereditary 
descent,  to  spontaneous  breeding,  as  if  a  disease  could  originate 
without  a  cause;  or  to  any  frivolous  imaginary  source,  without 
suspecting,  or  being  willing  to  own,  mismanagement  of  ourselves. 

We  derive  the  renewal  of  our  blood  and  juices,  which  are  con- 
stantly exhausting,  from  the  substances  we  take  as  food.  As  our 
food,  therefore,  is  proper  or  improper,  too  much  or  too  little,  so 
will  our  blood  and  juices  be  good  or  bad,  overcharged  or  deficient, 
and  our  state  of  health  accordingly  good  or  diseased. 

By  aliment,  or  food,  is  to  be  understood  whatever  we  eat  or 
drink,  including  seasonings;  such  as  salt,  sugar,  spices,  vinegar, 
&c.  Stc.  Every  thing,  in  short,  which  we  receive  into  our  sto- 
machs. Our  food,  therefore,  consists  not  only  of  such  particles 
as  are  proper  for  the  nourishment  and  support  of  the  human  body, 
but  likewise  contains  certain  active  principles,  viz.  salts,  oils,  and 
spirits,  which  have  the  properties  of  stimulating  the  solids,  quick- 
ening the  circulation,  and  making  the  fluids  thinner;  thus  render- 
ing them  more  suited  to  undergo  the  necessary  secretions  of  the 
body. 

The  art  of  preserving  health,  and  obtaining  long  life,  therefore 
consists  in  the  use  of  a  moderate  quantity  of  such  diet  as  shall 
neither  increase  the  salts  and  oils,  so  as  to  produce  disease,  nor 
diminish  them,  so  as  to  suffer  the  solids  to  become  relaxed. 

It  is  very  difficult,  almost  impossible,  to  ascertain  exactly  what 
are  the  predominant  qualities  either  in  our  bodies  or  in  the  food 
we  eat.  In  practice,  therefore,  we  can  have  no  other  rule  but 
observing  by  experience  what  it  is  that  hurts  or  does  us  good; 
and  what  it  is  our  stomach  can  digest  with  facility,  or  the  contrary. 
But  then  we  must  keep  our  judgment  unbiassed,  and  not  suffer  it 
to  become  a  pander  to  the  appetite,  and  thus  betray  the  stomach 
and  health,  to  indulge  our  sensuality. 

The  eating  too  little  is  hurtful,  as  well  as  eating  too  much. 
Neither  excess,  nor  hunger,  nor  any  thing  else  that  passes  the 
bounds  of  nature,  can  be  good  to  man. 

By  loading  tli<>  stomach,  fermentation  is  checked,  and  of  course 
dii_"  <ti-tn  iinjpadcd;  for  the  natural  juice  of  the  stomach  has  not 
mom  to  exert  it-i •!!',  and  it  therefore  nauseates  its  contents,  is 
!  v  '  i:ition<,  the  spirits  are  oppressed,  obstructions 
ensue,  and  flier  is  the  consequence.  Besides,  that  when  thus 
overfilled,  tlV  stomach  pre<se<  on  the  diaphragm,  prevents  tho 
proper  plajf^the  lungs,  and  occasions  uneasiness  in  our  breath- 


Xll  DIET. 

ing.  Hence  arise  various  ill  symptoms  and  depraved  effects 
throughout  the  body,  enervating  the  strength,  decaying  the  senses, 
hastening  old  age,  and  shortening  life.  Though  these  effects  are 
not  immediately  perceived,  yet  they  are  certain  attendants  of 
intemperance;  for  it  has  been  generally  observed  in  great  eaters, 
that,  though  from  custom,  a  state  of  youth,  and  a  strong  constitu- 
tion, they  have  no  present  inconvenience,  but  have  digested  their 
food,  suffered  surfeit,  and  borne  their  immoderate  diet  well ;  if  they 
have  not  been  unexpectedly  cut  off,  they  have  found  the  symptoms 
of  old  age  come  on  early  in  life,  attended  with  pains  and  innume- 
rable disorders. 

If  we  value  our  health,  we  must  ever  make  it  a  rule  not  to  eat 
to  satiety  or  fulness,  but  desist  while  the  stomach  feels  quite  easy. 
Thus  we  shall  be  refreshed,  light,  and  cheerful;  not  dull,  heavy, 
or  indisposed.  Should  we  ever  be  tempted  to  eat  too  much  at  one 
time,  we  should  eat  the  less  at  another.  Thus,  if  our  dinner  has 
been  larger  than  usual,  let  our  supper  be  less,  or  rather  quite 
omitted;  for  there  is  no  man,  however  careful  of  his  health,  who 
does  not  occasionally  transgress  in  this  way. 

With  regard  to  the  times  of  eating,  they  must  to  a  certain  degree 
be  conformed  to  family  convenience,  but  ought  to  be  quite  inde- 
pendent of  the  caprices  of  fashion.  The  great  things  to  be  guard- 
ed against  are,  either  eating  too  soon  after  a  former  meal,  or 
fasting  too  long. — The  stomach  should  always  have  time  to  empty 
itself  before  it  is  filled  again. 

Some  stomachs  digest  their  contents  sooner  than  others,  and  if 
long  empty  it  may  destroy  the  appetite,  and  greatly  disturb  both 
the  head  and  animal  spirits;  for,  from  the  great  profusion  of  nerves 
spread  upon  the  stomach,  there  is  an  immediate  sympathy  between 
that  and  the  head.  Hence  the  head  is  sure  to  be  affected  by 
whatever  disorders  the  stomach,  whether  from  any  particular  ali- 
ment that  disagrees  with  it,  or  being  overfilled,  or  too  long  empty. 
Such  as  feel  a  gnawing  in  the  stomach,  as  it  is  called,  should  not 
wait  till  the  stated  time  of  the  next  meal,  but  take  a  small  quanti- 
ty of  light,  easily  digested  food,  that  the  stomach  may  have  some- 
thing to  work  on. 

Young  persons  in  health,  who  use  much  exercise,  may  eat  three 
times  a  day.  But  such  as  are  in  years,  such  as  are  weak,  as  do 
no  work,  use  no  exercise,  or  lead  a  sedentary  life,  eating  twice  in 
the  day  is  sufficient ;  or,  as  in  the  present  habits  of  society,  it  might 
be  difficult  to  arrange  the  taking  only  two  meals,  let  them  take 
three  very  moderate  ones.  Old  and  weak  persons  may  eat  often, 
but  then  it  should  be  very  little  at  a  time. 

The  quality  of  our  food  is  a  subject  of  greater  difficulty  than 
the  quantity;  moderation  is  an  invariably  safe  guide  in  the  latter 
instance;  but  though  always  favorable  to  prevent  ill  effects  from 
any  error  in  quality,  it  will  not  always  be  effectual. 

To  a  person  in  good  health,  with  a  strong  stomach,  and  whose 
constant  beverage  is  water,  cold  or  tepid,  according  to  the  sea- 


DIET.  Xlll 

son,  or  some  aqueous  liquor,  the  niceties  of  choice  in  food  or 
cookery  are  less  material  than  to  persons  with  naturally  weak  sto- 
machs, or  to  those  in  sickness,  or  for  children.  But  all  persons 
who  would  to  a  certainty  preserve  their  health  and  faculties,  and 
live  out  the  natural  term  of  life,  should  use  plain  food,  as  all  high 
seasonings  and  compound  mixtures  have  an  injurious  effect,  soon- 
er or  later,  on  the  strongest  constitutions.  If  a  few  instances  can 
be  quoted  to  the  contrary,  these,  like  other  anomalies  in  nature, 
cannot  constitute  an  exception  to  a  well  established  fact. 

.No  part  of  our  aliment  is  more  important  than  our  beverage. 
It  is  essential  to  moisten  and  convey  our  more  solid  food  into  the 
stomach,  and  from  thence  to  the  respective  parts  of  the  body.  To 
allay  thirst,  to  dilute  the  blood,  that  it  may  circulate  through  the 
minutest  vessels,  to  dissolve  and  carry  off  by  the  watery  secre- 
tions the  superfluous  salts  we  take  in  our  food;  to  answer  these 
purposes  no  liquid  is  so  effectual  as  pure  water,  with  the  exception 
of  some  few  cases.  No  other  liquid  circulates  so  well,  or  mixes  so 
immediately  with  our  fluids.  All  other  liquors  are  impregnated 
\\itli  particles  which  act  strongly  upon  the  solids  or  fluids,  or  both; 
but  water  being  simple,  operates  only  by  diluting,  moistening,  and 
cooling,  which  are  the  great  uses  of  drink  pointed  out  to  us  by 
nature.  Hence  it  is  evident  that  water  is  in  general  the  best  and 
most  wholesome  drink;  but  some  constitutions  require  something 
to  warm  and  stimulate  the  stomach,  and  then  fermented  liquors 
taken  in  moderation  are  proper;  such  as  beer,  ale,  cider,  wine, 
&.c.  the  choice  and  quantity  of  which  depend  on  the  age,  consti- 
tution, and  manner  of  living  of  the  drinker;  and  to  have  them 
pun-  is  above. .all  things  essential;  as  otherwise,  instead  of  being 
of  any  benefit,  they  will  be  highly  detrimental. 

Drams,  or  (iisrilled  spirituous  liquors,  the  use  of  which  is  unhap- 
pily very  prevalent,  are  of  the  most  poisonous  qualities;  and  from 
their  direful  effects  are  the  destruction  of  thousands.  From  the 
decree  of  heat  they  have  undergone  in  distillation  they  acquire  a 
corrosive  and  burning  qualij£,  which  makes  them  as  certain  to 
kill  as  laudanum  |r  arsenicjf  hough  not  so  soon.  They  contract 
the  fibres  and  oCThe  body,  especially  where  they  are 

the  tenderest,  as  in  fhe  brain,  and  thus  destroy  the  intellectual 
faculties.  They  injure  the  coat  of  the  stomach,  and  thus  expose 
tin-  nerves  and  weaken  the  fibres  till  the  whole  stomach  becomes 
at  last  soft,  flabby,  and  relaxed.  From  whence  ensues  loss  of 
appetite,  indigestion,  and  diseases  that  generally  terminate  in 
premature  death.  Spirituous  liquors  in  any  way,  whether  alone, 
mixed  with  water,  in  punch,  shrub,  noyau,  or  other  liqueurs,  are 
all  slow  poisons. 

It  would  be  endless  to  enter  on  an  account  of  the  different  quali- 
ties of  all  sorts  of  wines,  but  it  may  be  said  in  general,  that  all 
the  light  wines  of  a  moderate  strength,  due  age  and  maturity,  are 
more  wholesome  for  the  constitution  than  the  rich,  hot  strong 

B 


XIV  BOILING. 

heavy  wines;  for  the  light  wines  inflame  the  juices  of  the  body 
less  and  go  off  the  stomach  with  less  difficulty. 

The  last  thing  to  be  said  concerning  liquors  is,  that  wine  and 
all  other  strong  liquors,  are  as  hard  to  digest  as  solid  strong  food. 
This  is  not  only  evident  with  respect  to  persons  of  weak  stomachs 
and  digestion,  but  also  from  strong  healthy  people,  who  only 
drink  either  water  or  small  beer  at  their  meals,  and  are  able  to 
eat  and  digest  almost  double  the  quantity  of  what  they  could  if 
they  drank  strong  liquors.  It  appears  very  plain,  therefore,  that 
we  should  not  drink  strong  liquors  at  our  meals,  as  by  their  heat 
and  activity  they  hurry  the  food  undigested  into  the  habit  of  the 
body,  and  by  that  means  lay  a  foundation  for  various  distempers. 
An  abstinence,  in  short,  from  fermented  liquors  would  preserve 
our  mental  faculties  in  vigor,  and  our  bodies  from  many  painful 
disorders  that  afflict  mankind,  as  there  is  no  doubt  that  we  may 
principally  ascribe  to  them  the  gout,  rheumatism,  stone,  cancer, 
fevers,  hysterics,  lunacy,  apoplexy,  and  palsy. 


BOILING. 

This  most  simple  of  culinary  processes  is  not  often  performed  in 
perfection.  It  does  not  require  quite  so  much  nicety  and  atten- 
dance as  roasting  ;  to  skim  your  pot  well,  and  keep  it  really  boiling 
(the  slower  the  better)  all  the  while,  to  know  how  long  is  required 
for  doing  the  joint,  &c.,  and  to  take  it  up  at  the  critical  moment 
when  it  is  done  enough,  comprehends  almost  the  whole  art  and 
mystery.  This,  however,  demands  a  patient  and  perpetual  vigi- 
lance, of  which  few  persons  are  capable. 

The  cook  must  take  especial  care  that  the  water  really  boils  all 
the  while  she  is  cooking,  or  she  will  be  deceived  in  the  time  ;  and 
make  up  a  sufficient  fire  at  first,  to  last  all  the  time,  without  much 
mending  or  stirring.  A  frugal  cook  will  manage  with  much  less 
fire  for  boiling  than  she  uses  for  roasting. 

^When  the  pot  is  coming  to  a  boil  there  will  always,  from  the 
cleanest  meat  and  clearest  water,  rise  a'  scum  to  the  top  of  it,  pro- 
ceeding partly  from  the  water  ;  this  must  be  carefully  taken  off  as 
soon  as  it  rises. 

On  this  depends  the  good  appearance  of  all  boiled  things.  When 
you  have  skimmed  well,  put  in  some  cold  water,  which  will  throw 
up  the  rest  of  the  scum. 

The  oilener  it  is  skimmed,  and  the  cleaner  the  top  of  the  water 
is  kept,  the  sweeter  and  the  cleaner  will  be  the  meat. 
-  If  let  alone,  it  soon  boils  down  and  sticks  to  the  meat,  which, 
instead  of  looking  delicately  white  and  nice,  will  have  that  coarse 
and  filthy  appearance  we  have  too  often  to  complain  of,  and  the 
butcher  and  poulterer  be  blamed  for  the  carelessness  of  the  cook 
in  not  skimming  her  pot. 


BOILING.  XV 

Many  put  in  milk,  to  make  what  they  boil  look  white  ;  but  this 
does  more  harm  than  good  :  others  wrap  it  up  in  a  cloth  ;  but 
these  are  needless  precautions  :  if  the  scum  be  attentively  removed, 
meat  will  have  a  much  more  delicate  color  and  finer  flavor  than  it 
has  when  muffled  up.  This  may  give  rather  more  trouble,  but 
those  who  wish  to  excel  in  their  art  must  only  consider  how  the 
processes  of  it  can  be  most  perfectly  performed  :  a  cook,  who  has 
a  proper  pride  and  pleasure  in  her  business,  will  make  this  her 
maxim  on  all  occasions. 

It  is  desirable  that  meat  for  boiling  be  of  an  equal  thickness,  or, 
before  thicker  parts  are  done  enough,  the  thinner  will  be  done  too 
much. 

Put  your  meat  into  cold  water,  in  the  proportion  of  about  a  quart 
of  water  to  a  pound  of  meat :  it  should  be  covered  with  water  during 
the  whole  of  the  process  of  boiling,  but  not  drowned  in  it  ;  the  less 
water,  provided  the  meat  be  covered  with  it,  the  more  savory  will 
be  the  meat,  and  the  better  will  be  the  broth. 

The  water  should  be  heated  gradually,  according  to  the  thick- 
ness, &c.  of  the  article  boiled.  For  instance,  a  leg  of  mutton  of 
ten  pounds  weight  should  be  placed  over  a  moderate  fire,  which 
will  gradually  make  the  water  hot,  without  causing  it  to  boil  for 
about  forty  minutes  ;  if  the  water  boils  much  sooner,  the  meat  will 
be  hardened,  and  shrink  up  as  if  it  was  scorched  :  by  keeping  the 
water  a  certain  time  heating  without  boiling,  the  fibres  of  the  meat 
are  dilated,  and  it  yields  a  quantity  of  scum,  which  must  be  taken 
off  as  soon  as  it  rises. 

The  editor  placed  a  thermometer  in  water  in  that  state  which 
cooks  call  gentle  simmering  ;  the  heat  was  212°,  i.  e.  the  same 
degree  as  the  strongest  boiling. 

Two  mutton  chops  were  covered  with  cold  water;  one  boiled  a 
gallop,  while  the  other  simmered  very  gently  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour*  the  chop  which  was  slowly  simmered  was  decidedly  su- 
perior to  that  which  was  boiled  ;  it  was  much  tenderer,  more  juicy, 
and  much  higher  flavored.  The  liquor  which  boiled  fast  was  in 
like  proportion  more  savory,  and  when  cold  had  much  more  fat 
on  its  surface.  This  explains  why  quick  boiling  renders  meat  - 
hard,  &.c.,  because  its  juices  are  extracted  in  a  greater  degree. 

Reckon  the  time  from  its  first  coming  to  a  boil. 

The  old  rule  of  15  minutes  to  a  pound  of  meat,  we  think  rather 
too  little  :  the  slower  it  boils,  the  tenderer,  the  plumper,  and  whiter 
it  will  be. 

For  those  who  choose  their  food  thoroughly  cooked  (which  all 
will  who  have  any  regard  for  their  stomachs),  twenty  minutes  to  a 
pound  for  fresh,  and  rather  more  for  salted  meat,  will  not  be  found 
too  much  for  gentle  simmering  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  allowing 
more  or  less  time,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  joint,  and  the 
coldness  of  the  weather  :  to  know  the  state  of  which,  let  a  ther- 
mometer be  placed  in  the  pantry  ;  and  when  it  falls  below  40  °,  tell 


XVI  BAKING. 

your  cook  to  give  rather  more  time  in  both  roasting  and  boiling, 
always  remembering,  the  slower  it  boils  the  better. 

Without  some  practice  it  is  difficult  to  teach  any  art  ;  and  cooks 
seem  to  suppose  they  must  be  right,  if  they  put  meat  into  a  pot, 
and  set  it  over  the  fire  for  a  certain  time,  making  no  allowance 
whether  it  simmers  without  a  bubble  or  boils  a  gallop. 

Fresh-killed  meat  will  take  much  longer  time  boiling  than  that 
which  has  been  kept  till  it  is  what  the  butchers  call  ripe;  and  long- 
er in  cold  than  in  warm  weather  :  if  it  be  frozen,  it  must  be  thawed 
before  boiling  as  before  roasting  ;  if  it  be  fresh-killed,  it  will  be 
tough  and  hard,  if  you  stew  it  ever  so  long,  and  ever  so  gently. 
In  cold  weather,  the  night  before  the  day  you  dress  it,  bring  it  into 
a  place  of  which  the  temperature  is  not  less  than  45  degrees  of 
Fahrenheit's  thermometer. 

The  size  of  the  boiling-pots  should  be  adapted  to  what  they  are 
to  contain  :  the  larger  the  saucepan  the  more  room  it  takes  upon 
the  fire,  and  a  larger  quantity  of  water  requires  a  proportionate 
increase  of  fire  to  boil  it. 

In  small  families  we  recommend  block-tin  saucepans,  Sec.  as 
lightest  and  safest.  If  proper  care  is  taken  of  them,  and  they  are 
well  dried  after  they  are  cleaned,  they  are  by  far  the  cheapest  ; 
the  purchase  of  a  new  tin  saucepan  being  little  more  than  the  ex- 
pense of  tinning  a  copper  one. 

Let  the  covers  of  your  boiling-pots  fit  close,  not  only  to  prevent 
unnecessary  evaporation  of  the  water,  but  to  prevent  the  escape 
of  the  nutritive  matter,  which  must  then  remain  either  in  the  meat 
or  in  the  broth  ;  and  the  smoke  is  prevented  from  insinuating  itself 
under  the  edge  of  the  lid,  and  so  giving  the  meat  a  bad  taste. 

If  you  let  meat  or  poultry  remain  in  the  water  after  it  is  done 
enough,  it  will  become  sodden,  and  lose  its  flavor. 

Beef  and  mutton  a  little  wider-done  (especially  very  larg,e  joints, 
which  will  make  the  better  hash  or  broil,)  is  not  a  great  fault  ;  by 
some  people  it  is  preferred  ;  but  lamb,  pork,  and  veal  are  uneata- 
ble if  not  thoroughly  boiled  ;  but  do  not  over-do  them. 

A  trivet  or  fish-drainer  put  on  the  bottom  of  the  boiling-pot,  rais- 
ing the  contents  -about  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the  bottom,  will 
prevent  that  side  of  the  meat  which  comes  next  the  bottom  from 
being  done  too  much,  and  the  lower  part  of  the  meat  will  be  as 
delicately  done  as  the  other  part  ;  and  this  will  enable  you  to  take 
out  the  contents  of  the  pot,  without  sticking  a  fork,  &.c.  into  it. 
If  you  have  not  a  trivet,  use  four  skewers,  or  a  soup-plate  laid  the 
wrong  side  upwards. 

BAKING. 

Baking  is  one  of  the  cheapest  and  most  convenient  ways  of 
dressing  a  dinner  in  small  families;  and,  I  may  say,  that  the  oven 
is  often  the  only  kitchen  a  poor  man  has,  if  he  wishes  to  enjoy  a 
joint  of  meat. 


BAKING.  XV11 

I  do  not  mean  to  deny  the  superior  excellence  of  roasting  to 
baking;  but  some  joints,  when  baked,  so  nearly  approach  to  the 
same  when  roasted,  that  I  have  known  them  to  be  carried  to  the 
table,  and  eaten  as  such  with  great  satisfaction. 

Legs  and  loins  of  pork,  legs  of  mutton,  fillets  of  veal,  and  many 
other  joints,  will  bake  to  great  advantage,  if  the  meat  be  good; 
I  mean  well-fed,  rather  inclined  to  be  fat:  if  the  meat  be  poor,  no 
baker  can  give  satisfaction. 

When  baking  a  poor  joint  of  meat,  before  it  has  been  half 
baked  I  have  seen  it  start  from  the  bone,  and  shrivel  up  scarcely 
to  be  believed. 

Besides  those  joints  above  mentioned,  I  shall  enumerate  a  few 
baked  dishes  which  I  can  particularly  recommend. 

A  pig,  when  sent  to  the  baker  prepared  for  baking,  should  have 
its  ears  and  tail  covered  with  buttered  paper  properly  fastened  on, 
and  a  bit  of  butter  tied  up  in  a  piece  of  linen  to  baste  the  back 
with,  otherwise  it  will  be  apt  to  blister:  with  a  proper  share  of 
attention  from  the  baker,  I  consider  this  way  equal  to  a  roasted 
one. 

A  goose  prepa'red  the  same  as  for  roasting,  taking  care  to  have 
it  on  a  stand,  and  when  half  done  to  turn  the  other  side  upwards. 
A  duck  the  same. 

A  buttock  of  beef  the  following  way  is  particularly  fine.  After 
it  has  been  in  salt  about  a  week,  to  be  well  washed,  and  put  into 
a  brown  earthen  pan  with  a  pint  of  water;  cover  the  pan  tight 
with  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  cap  or  foolscap  paper:  never 
cover  anything  that  is  to  be  baked  with  brown  paper,  the  pitch 
and  tar  that  is  in  brown  paper  will  give  the  meat  a  smoky,  bad 
taste:  give  it  four  or  five  hours  in  a  moderately  heated  oven. 

A  ham  (if  not  too  old)  put  in  soak  for  an  hour,  taken  out  and 
wiped,  a  crust  made  sufficient  to  cover  it  all  over,  and  baked  in 
a  moderately  heated  oven,  cuts  fuller  of  gravy,  and  of  a  finer 
flavor,  than  a  boiled  one.  I  have  been  in  the  habit  of  baking 
small  cod-fish,  haddock,  and  mackerel,  with  a  dust  of  flour,  and 
some  bits  of  butter  put  on  them;  eels,  when  large  and  stuffed; 
herrings  and  sprats,  in  a  brown  pan,  with  vinegar  and  a  little 
spice,  and  tied  over  with  paper.  A  hare,  prepared,  the  same  as 
for  roasting,  with  a  few  pieces  of  butter,  and  a  little  drop  of  milk 
put  into  the  dish,  and  basted  several  times,  will  be  found  nearly 
equal  to  roasting ;  or  cut  it  up,  season  it  properly,  put  it  into  a 
jar  or  pan,  and  cover  it  over  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
about  three  hours.  In  the  same  manner,  I  have  been  in  the  hab- 
it of  baking  legs  and  shins  of  beef,  ox  cheeks,  &c.  prepared  with 
a  seasoning  of  onions,  turnips,  &.c.:j»they  will  take  about  four 
hours:  let  them  stand  till  cold,  to  skim  off  the  fat;  then  wa'rm  it 
up  all  together^  or  part,  as  you  may  want  it. 

All  these  I  have  been  in  the  habit  of  baking  for  the  first  families. 

The  time  each  of  the  above  articles  should  take  depends  much 
upon  the  state  of  the  oven,  and  I  do  consider  the  baker  a  suf- 

B* 


ROASTING. 


ficient  judge;  if  they  are  sent  to  him  in  time,  he  must  be  very 
neglectful  if  they  are  not  ready  at  the  time  they  are  ordered. 


ROASTING. 

Let  the  young  cook  never  forget  that  cleanliness  is  the  chief 
cardinal  virtue  of  the  kitchen;  the  first  preparation  for  roasting 
is  to  take  care  that  the  spit  be  properly  cleaned  with  sand  and 
water;  nothing  else.  When  it  has  been  well  scoured  with  this, 
dry  it  with  a  clean  cloth.  If  spits  are  wiped  clean  as  soon  as  the 
meat  is  drawn  from  them,  and  while  they  are  hot,  a  very  little 
cleaning  will  be  required.  The  less  the  spit  is  passed  through 
the  meat  the  better;  and,  before  you  spit  it,  joint  it  properly,  es- 

Recially  necks  and  loins,  that  the  carver  may  separate  them  easi- 
/  and  neatly,  and  take  especial  care  it  be  evenly  balanced  on 
the  spit,  that  its  motion  may  be  regular,  and  the  fire  operate 
equally  on  each  part  of  it;  therefore,  be  provided  with  balancing- 
skewers  and  cookholds,  and  see  it  is  properly  jointed. 

Make  up  the  fire  in  time;  let  it  be  proportioned  to  the  dinner 
to  be  dressed,  and  about  three  or  four  inches  longer  at  each  end 
than  the  thing  to  be  roasted,  or  the  ends  of  the  meat  cannot  be 
done  nice  and  brown. 

A  cook  must  be  as  particular  to  proportion  her  fire  to  the  busi- 
ness she  has  to  do,  as  a  chemist:  the  degree  of  heat  most  desira- 
ble for  dressing  the  different  sorts  of  food  ought  to  be  attended 
to  with  the  utmost  precision. 

The  fire  that  is  but  just  sufficient  to  receive  the  noble  sirloin 
will  parch  up  a  lighter  joint. 

Never  put  meat  down  to  a  burned-up  fire,  if  you  can  possibly 
avoid  it;  but  should  the  fire  become  fierce,  place  the  spit  at  a 
considerable  distance,  and  allow  a  little  more  lime. 

Preserve  the  fat,  by  covering  it  with  paper,  for  this  purpose 
called.  "  kitchen-paper,"  and  tie  it  on  with  fine  twine;  pins  and 
skewers  can  by  no  means  be  allowed;  they  are  so  many  taps  to 
let  out  the  gravy:  besides,  the  paper  often  starts  from  them  and 
catches  fire,  to  the  great  injury  of  the  meat. 

If  the  thing  to  be  roasted  be  thin  and  tender,  the  fire  should 
be  little  and  brisk:  when  you  have  a  large  joint  to  roast,  make  up 
a  sound,  strong  fire,  equally  good  in  every  part,  or  your  meat 
cannot  be  equally  roasted,  nor  have  that  uniform  color  which 
constitutes  the  beauty  of  good  roasting. 

Give  the  fire  a  good  stirring  before  you  lay  the  joint  down; 
examine  it  from  time  to  time  while  the  spit  is  going  round ;  keep 
it  clear  at  the  bottom,  and  take  care  there  are  no  smoky  coals  in 
the  front,  which  will  spoil  the  look  and  taste  of  the  meat,  and 
hinder  it  from  roasting  evenly. 

When  the  joint  to  be  roasted  is  thicker  at  one  end  than  the 
other,  place  th^  qpit  slanting,  with  the  thickest  part  nearest  the  fire. 


ROASTING.  XIX 

Do  not  put  meat  too  near  the  fire  at  first;  the  larger  the  joint,  * 
the  farther  it  must  be  kept  from  the  h're:  if  once  it  gets  scorched, 
the  outside  will  become  hard,  and  acquire  a  disagreeable,  empyr- 
eumatic  taste ;  and  the  fire  being  prevented  from  penetrating  into 
it,  the  meat  will  appear  done  before  it  is  little  more  than  half 
done,  besides  losing  the  pale  brown  color,  which  it  is  the  beauty 
of  roasted  meat  to  have. 

Be  very  careful  to  place  the  dripping-pan  at  such  a  distance 
from  the  fire  as  just  to  catch  the  drippings:  if  it  is  too  near,  the 
ashes  will  fall  into  it,  and  spoil  the  drippings. 

If  it  is  too  far  from  the  fire  to  catch  them,  you  will  not  only  lose 
your  drippings,  but  the  meat  will  be  blackened  and  spoiled  by 
the  fetid  smoke,  which  will  arise  when  the  fat  falls  on  the  live 
cinders.  , 

A  large  dripping-pan  is  convenient  for  several  purposes.  It 
should  not  be  less  than  twenty-eight  inches  long  and  twenty  inch- 
es wide,  and  have  a  covered  well  on  the  side  from  the  fire,  to 
collect  the  drippings;  this  will  preserve  them  in  the  most  delicate 
state :  in  a  pan  of  the  above  size  you  may  set  fried  fish,  and  vari- 
ous dishes,  to  keep  hot. 

The  time  meat  will  take  roasting  will  vary  according  to  the 
time  it  has  been  kept,  and  the  temperature  of  the  weather;  the 
same  weight  will  be  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour  longer  in 
cold  weather,  than  it  will  be  in  warm;  and  if  fresh  killed,  than  if 
it  1ms  been  kept  till  it  is  tender. 

Everybody  knows  the  advantage  of  slow  boiling.  Slow  roasting 
is  equally  important. 

It  is  difficult  to  give  any  specific  rule  for  time;  but  if  your  fire 
is  made  as  before  directed,  your  meat-screen  sufficiently  large  to 
guard  what  you  are  dressing  from  currents  of  air,  and  the  meat 
is  not  frosted,  you  cannot  do  better  than  follow  the  old  general 
rule  of  allowing  rather  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  the 
pound;  a  little  more  or  less,  according  to  the  temperature  of  the 
weather,  in  proportion  as  the  piece  is  thick  or  thin,  the  strength 
of  the  fire,  the  nearness  of  the  meat  to  it,  and  the  frequency  with 
which  you  baste  it;  the  more  it  is  basted  the  less  time  it  will  take, 
as  it  keeps  the  meat  soft  and  mellow  on  the  outside,  and  the  fire 
acts  with  more  force  upon  it. 

Reckon  the  time,  not  to  the  hour  when  dinner  is  ordered,  but 
to  the  moment  the  roasts  will  be  wanted.  Supposing  there  are  a 
dozen  people  to  sip  soup  and  eat  fish  first,  you  may  allow  them 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes  for  the  former,  and  about  as  long  for  the 
latter,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  temptations  the  "  BON  GOUT" 
of  these  preceding  courses  has  to  attract  their  attention. 

When  the  joint  is  half  done,  remove  the  spit  and  dripping-pan- 
back,  and  stir  tip  your  fire  thoroughly,  that  it  may  burn  clear  and 
bright  lor  the  browning;  when  the  steam  from  the  meat  draws  to- 
wards the  fire,  it  is  a  sifrn  of  its  bcinir  dom-  »-M ••ii^h;  but  you  will 
be  the  best  judge  of  that,  from  the  time  it  ha.s  been  down,  the 


XX  FRYING. 

strength  of  the  fire  you  have  used,  and  the  distance  your  spit  has 
been  from  it. 

Half  an  hour  before  your  meat  is  done,  make  some  gravy,  and 
just  before  you  take  it  up,  put  it  nearer  the  fire  to  brown  it.  If 
you  wish  to  froth  it,  baste  it,  and  dredge  it  with  flour  carefully: 
you  cannot  do  this  delicately  nice  without  a  very  good  light. 
The  common  fault  seems  to  be  using  too  much  flour.  The  meat 
should  have  a  fine  light  varnish  of  froth,  not  the  appearance  of 
being  covered  with  a  paste.  Those  who  are  particular  about  the 
froth  use  butter  instead  of  drippings. 

A  good  cook  is  as  anxiously  attentive  to  the  appearance  and 
color  of  her  roasts,  as  a  young  beauty  is  to  her  complexion  at  a 
birthday  ball.  If  your  meat  does  not  brown  so  much,  or  so  even- 
ly as  you  wish,  take  two  ounces  of  glaze,  i.  e.  portable  soup,  put 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  water,  and  let  it  warm  and  dissolve  gradu- 
ally by  the  side  of  the  fire.  This  will  be  done  in  about  a  quarter 
of  an  hour;  put  it  on  the  meat  equally  all  over  with  a  paste-brush 
the  last  thing  before  it  goes  to  table. 

Though  roasting  is  one  of  the  most  common,  and  is  generally 
considered  one  of  the  most  easy  and  simple  processes  of  cook- 
ery, it  requires  more  unremitting  attention  to  perform  it  perfect- 
ly well  than  it  does  to  make  most  made  dishes. 

That  made  dishes  are  the  most  difficult  preparations,  deserves 
to  be  reckoned  among  the  culinary  vulgar  errors;  in  plain  roast- 
ing and  boiling  it  is  not  easy  to  repair  a  mistake  once  made;  and 
all  the  discretion  and  attention  of  a  steady,  careful  cook,  must 
be  unremittingly  upon  the  alert. 


FRYING. 

Frying  is  often  a  convenient  mode  of  cookery;  it  may  be  per- 
formed by  a  fire  which  will  not  do  for  roasting  or  boiling;  and  by 
the  introduction  of  the  pan  between  the  meat  and  the  fire,  things 
get  more  equally  dressed. 

The  Dutch  oven  or  bonnet  is  a  very  convenient  utensil  for  small 
things,  and  a  very  useful  substitute  for  the  jack,  the  gridiron,  or 
frying-pan. 

A  frying-pan  should  be  about  four  inches  deep,  with  a  perfectly 
flat  and  thick  bottom,  twelve  inches  long  and  nine  broad,  with 
perpendicular  sides,  and  must  be  half  filled  with  fat:  good  frying 
is,  in  fact,  boiling  in  fat.  To  make  sure  that  the  pan  is  quite 
clean,  rub  a  little  fat  over  it,  and  then  make  it  warm,  and  wipe  it 
out  with  a  clean  cloth. 

Be  very  particular  in  fryiug,  never  to  use  any  oil,  butter,  lard, 
or  drippings,  but  what  is  quite  clean,  fresh,  and  tree  from  salt. 
Any  thing  dirty  spoils  the  look;  any  thing  bad-tasted  or  stale, 
spoils  the  flavor;  and  salt  prevents  its  browning. 

Fine  olive  oil  is  the  most  delicate  for  frying;  but  the  best  oil  is 
expensive,  and  bad  oil  spoils  every  thing  that  is  dressed  with  it. 
. 


PRYING.  XXI 

For  general  purposes,  and  especially  for  fish,  clean  fresh  lard 
is  not  near  so  expensive  as  oil  or  clarified  butter,  and  does  almost 
as  well.  Butter  often  burns  before  you  are  aware  of  it;  and  what 
you  fry  will  get  a  dark  and  dirty  appearance. 

Dripping,  if  nicely  clean  and  fresh,  is  almost  as  good  as  any 
thing;  if  not  clean,  it  may  be  easily  clarified.  Whatever  fat  you 
use,  after  you  have  done  frying,  let  it  remain  in  the  pan  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  then  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  basin;  it 
will  do  three  or  four  times  as  well  as  it  did  at  first,  t.  e.  if  it  has  not 
burned:  but,  the  fat  you  have  fried  fish  in  must  not  be  used  for 
any  other  purpose. 

To  know  when  the  fat  is  of  a  proper  heat,  according  to  what 
you  are  to  fry,  is  the  great  secret  in  frying. 

To  fry  fish,  parsley,  potatoes,  or  any  thing  that  is  watery,  your 
fire  must  be  very  clear,  and  the  fat  quite  hot;  which  you  may  be 
pretty  sure  of,  when  it  has  done  hissing,  and  is  still.  We  cannot 
insist  too  strongly  on  this  point:  if  the  fat  is  not  very  hot,  you 
cannot  fry  fish  either  to  a  good  color,  or  firm  and  crisp. 

To  be  quite  certain,  throw  a  little  bit  of  bread  into  the  pan;  if  it 
fries  crisp,  the  fat  is  ready;  if  it  burns  the  bread,  it  is  too  hot. 

The  fire  under  the  pan  must  be  clear  and  sharp,  otherwise  the 
$  fat  is  so  long  before  it  becomes  ready,  and  demands  such  attend- 
ance to  prevent  the  accident  of  its  catching  fire,  that  the  patience 
of  cooks  is  exhausted,  and  they  frequently,  from  ignorance  or  im- 
patience, throw  in  what  they  are  going  to  fry  before  the  fat  is  half 
hot  enough.  Whatever  is  so  fried  will  be  pale  and  sodden,  and 
offend  the  palate  and  stomachflfet  less  than  the  eye. 

Have  a  good  light  to  fry  by,  that  you  may  see  when  you  have 
got  the  right  color:  a  lamp  fixed  on  a  stem,  with  a  loaded  foot, 
which  has  an  arm  that  lengthens  out,  and  slides  up  and  down  like 
a  reading  candlestick,  is  a  most  useful  appendage  to  kitchen  fire- 
places, which  are  very  seldom  light  enough  for  the  nicer  opera- 
tions of  cookery. 

After  all,  if  you  do  not  thoroughly  drain  the  fat  from  what  you 
have  fried,  especially  from  those  things  that  are  full  dressed  in 
bread  crumbs,  or  biscuit  powder,  Stc.,  your  cooking  will  do  you 
no  credit. 

The  dryness  of  fish  depends  much  upon  its  having  been  fried  in 
fat  of  a  due  degree  of  heat;  it  is  then  crisp  and  dry^in  a  few  min- 
utes alter  it  is  taken  out  of  the  pan:  when  it  is  not,  lay  it  on  a  soft 
cloth  before  the  fire,  turning  it  occasionally,  till  it  is.  This  will 
sometimes  take  fifteen  minutes:  therefore,  always  fry  fish  as  long 
as  this  before  you  want  them,  for  fear  you  may  find  this  necessary. 

To  fry  fish,  see  receipt  to  fry  soles,  which  is  the  only  circum- 
stantial account  of  the  process  that  has  yet  been  printed.  If  the 
cook  will  study  it  with  a  little  attention,  she  must  soon  become  an 
accomplished  frier. 

Frying,  though  one  of  the  most  common  of  culinary  operations, 
is  one  that  is  least  commonly  performed  perfectly  well. 


XX11  BROILING. 


BROILING. 

Cleanliness  is  extremely  essential  in  this  mode  of  cookery. 

Keep  your  gridiron  quite  clean  between  the  bars,  and  bright  on 
the  top:  when  it  is  hot,  wipe  it  well  with  a  linen  cloth:  just  before 
you  use  it,  rub  the  bars  with  clean  mutton-suet,  to  prevent  the 
meat  from  being  marked  by  the  gridiron. 

Take  care  to  prepare  your  fire  in  time,  so  that  it  may  burn 
quite  clear:  a  brisk  and  clear  fire  is  indispensable,  or  you  cannot 
give  your  meat  that  browning  which  constitutes  the  perfection  of 
this  mode  of  cookery,  and  gives  a  relish  to  food  it  cannot  receive 
any  other  way. 

The  chops  or  slices  should  be  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  thickness;  if  thicker,  they  will  be  done  too  much  on  the 
outside  before  the  inside  is  done  enough. 

Be  diligently  attentive  to  watch  the  moment  that  any  thing  is 
done:  never  hasten  any  thing  that  is  broiling,  lest  you  make 
smoke  and  spoil  it. 

Let  the  bars  of  the  gridiron  be  all  hot  through,  but  yet  not 
burning  hot  upon  the  surface:  this  is  the  perfect  and  fine  condition 
of  the  gridiron. 

As  the  bars  keep  away  as  much  heat  as  their  breadth  covers,  it 
is  absolutely  necessary  they  should  be  thoroughly  hot  before  the 
thing  to  be  cooked  be  laid  on  them. 

The  bars  of  gridirons  should  be  made  concave,  and  terminate  in 
a  trough  to  catch  the  gravy  and  keep  the  fat  from  dropping  into 
the  fire  and  making  a  smoke,  which  will  spoil  the  broil. 

Upright  gridirons  are  the  best,  as  they  can  be  used  at  any  fire 
without  fear  of  smoke;  and  the  gravy  is  preserved  in  the  trough 
under  them. 

N.  B.  Broils  must  be  brought  to  table  as  hot  as  possible ;  set  a 
dish  to  heat  when  you  put  your  chops  on  the  gridiron,  from  whence 
to  the  mouth  their  progress  must  be  as  quick  as  possible. 

When  the  fire  is  not  clear,  the  business  of  the  gridiron  may  be 
done  by  the  Dutch  oven  or  bonnet. 

Take  care  to  have  a  very  clear,  brisk  fire;  throw  a  little  salt  on 
it;  make  the  gridiron  hot,  and  set  it  slanting,  to  prevent  the  fat 
from  dropping  into  the  fire,  and  making  a  smoke.  It  requires 
more  practice  and  care  than  is  generally  supposed  to  do  steaks  to 
a  nicety;  and  for  want  of  these  little  attentions,  this  very  common 
dish,  which  every  body  is  supposed  capable  of  dressing,  seldom 
comes  to  table  in  perfection. 

Ask  those  you  cook  for,  if  they  like  it  under,  or  thoroughly 
done;  and  what  accompaniments  they  like  best;  it  is  usual  to  put 
a  table-spoonful  of  ketchup,  or  a  little  minced  eschalot,  into  a  dish 
before  the  fire;  while  you  are  broiling,  turn  the  steak,  &c.  with  a 
pair  of  steak-tongs,  it  will  be  done  in  about  tenor  fifteen  minutes; 
rub  a  bit  of  butter  over  it,  and  send  it  up  garnished  with  pickles 
and  finely-scraped  horse-radish. 


BROTHS    AND    SOUPS.  XX111 


BROTHS  AND  SOUPS. 

,  The  cook  must  pay  continual  attention  to  the  condition  of  her 
stew-pans,  soup-kettles,  &.c.  which  should  be  examined  every  time 
they  are  used.  The  prudent  housewife  will  carefully  examine  the 
condition  of  them  herself  at  least  once  a  month.  Their  covers 
also  must  be  kept  perfectly  clean  and  well  tinned,  and  the  stew- 
pans  not  only  on  the  inside,  but  abotit  a  couple  of  inches  on  the 
outside:  many  mischiefs  arise  from  their  getting  out  of  repair; 
and  if  not  kept  nicely  tinned,  all  your  good  work  will  be  in  vain; 
the  broths  and  soups  will  look  green  and  dirty,  taste  bitter  and 
poisonous,  and  will  be  spoiled  both  for  the  eye  and  palate,  and 
your  credit  will  be  lost. 

The  health,  and  even  life  of  the  family,  depends  upon  this,  and 
the  cook  may  be  sure  her  employers  had  rather  pay  the  tinman's 
bill  than  the  doctor's;  therefore,  attention  to  this  cannot  fail  to 
engage  the  regard  of  the  mistress,  between  whom  and  the  cook  it 
will  be  my  utmost  endeavor  to  promote  perfect  harmony. 

If  she  has  the  misfortune  to  scorch  or  blister  the  tinning  of  her 
pan,  which  will  happen  sometimes  to  the  most  careful  cook,  I  ad- 
vise her,  by  all  means,  immediately  to  acquaint  her  employers, 
who  will  thank  her  for  candidly  mentioning  an  accident;  and  cen- 
sure her  deservedly  if  she  conceal  it. 

Take  care  to  be  properly  provided  with  sieves  and  tammy  cloths, 
spoons  and  ladles.  Make  it  a  rule  without  an  exception,  never  to 
use  them  till  they  are  well  cleaned  and  thoroughly  dried,  nor  any 
stew-pans,  &c.  without  first  washing  them  out  with  boiling  water, 
and  rubbing  them  well  with  a  dry  cloth  and  a  little  bran,  to  clean 
them  from  grease,  sand,  &LC.,  or  any  bad  smell  they  may  have  got 
since  they  were  last  used:  never  neglect  this. 

Though  we  do  not  suppose  our  cook  to  be  such  a  naughty  slut 
as  to  wilfully  neglect  her  broth-pots,  &c.,  yet  we  may  recommend 
her  to  wash  them  immediately,  and  take  care  they  are  thoroughly 
dried  at  the  fire,  before  they  are  put  by,  and  to  keep  them  in  a  dry 
place,  for  damp  will  rust  and  destroy  them  very  soon:  attend  to 
this  the  first  moment  you  can  spare  after  the  dinner  is  sent  up. 

Never  put  by  any  soup,  gravy,  &c.  in  metal  utensils;  in  which 
never  keep  any  thing  longer  than  is  absolutely  necessary  for  the 
purposes  of  cookery;  the  acid,  vegetables,  fat,  &c.  employed  in 
making  soups,  &c.  are  capable  of  dissolving  such  utensils:  there- 
fore stone  or  earthern  vessels  should  be  used  for  this  purpose. 

Stew-pans,  soup-pots,  and  preserving  pans,  with  thick  and  round 
bottoms  (such  as  saucepans  are  made  with),  will  wear  twice  as 
long,  and  are  cleaned  with  half  the  trouble,  as  those  whose  sides 
are  soldered  to  the  bottom,  for  sand  and  grease  get  into  the 
joined  part,  and  cookeys  say  that  it  is  next  to  an  impossibility  to 
dislodge  it,  even  if  their  nails  are  as  long  as  Nebuchadnezzar's. 

Take  care  that  the  lids  fit  as  close  as  possible,  that  the  broth, 


XXIV  BROTHS    AND    SOUPS. 

soup,  and  sauces,  Stc.  may  not  waste  by  evaporation.  They  are 
good  for  nothing,  unless  they  fit  tight  enough  to  keep  the  steam  in 
and  the  smoke  out. 

Stew-pans  and  saucepans  should  be  always  bright  on  the  upper 
rim,  where  the  fire  does  not  burn  them;  but  to  scour  them  all  over 
is  not  only  giving  the  cook  needless  trouble,  but  wearing  out  the 
vessels. 

Lean,  juicy  beef,  mutton,  or  veal,  form  the  basis  of  broth;  pro- 
cure those  pieces  which  afford  the  richest  succulence,  and  as  fresh 
killed  as  possible. 

Stale  meat  will  make  broth  grouty  and  bad  tasted,  and  fat  meat 
is  wasted.  This  only  applies  to  those  broths  which  are  required 
to  be  perfectly  clear:  fat  and  clarified  drippings  may  be  so  com- 
bined with  vegetable  mucilage,  as  to  afford,  at  the  small  cost  of 
one  penny  per  quart,  a  nourishing  and  palatable  soup,  fully  ade- 
quate to  satisfy  appetite  and  support  strength:  this  will  open  a 
new  source  to  those  benevolent  housekeepers,  who  are  disposed 
to  relieve  the  poor,  will  show  the  industrious  classes  how  much 
they  have  it  in  their  power  to  assist  themselves,  and  rescue  them 
from  being  objects  of  charity  dependent  on  the  precarious  bounty 
of  others,  by  teaching  them  how  they  may  obtain  a  cheap,  abun- 
dant, salubrious,  and  agreeable  aliment  for  themselves  and  fam- 
ilies. 

This  soup  has  the  advantage  of  being  very  easily  and  very  soon 
made,  with  no  more  fuel  than  is  necessary  to  warm  a  room.  Those 
who  have  not  tasted  it,  cannot  imagine  what  a  salubrious,  savory, 
and  satisfying  meal  is  produced  by  the  judicious  combination  of 
cheap  homely  ingredients. 

The  general  fault  of  our  soups  seems  to  be  the  employment  of 
an  excess  of  spice,  and  too  small  a  portion  of  roots  and  herbs.  . 

There  is  no  French  dinner  without  soup,  which  is  regarded  as 
an  indispensable  overture;  and  believe  it  an  excellent  plan  to  begin 
the  banquet  with  a  basin  of  good  soup,  which,  by  moderating  the 
appetite  for  solid  animal  food,  is  certainly  a  salutiferous  custom. 

We  again  caution  the  cook  to  avoid  over-seasoning,  especially 
with  predominant  flavors,  which,  however  agreeable  they  may  be 
to  some,  are  extremely  disagreeable  to  others. 

Zest,  soy,  cavice,  coratch,  anchovy,  curry  powder,  savory  ra- 
gout powder,  soup  herb  powder,  browning,  ketchups,  pickle  li- 
quor, beer,  wine,  and  sweet  herbs,  and  savory  spice,  are  very 
convenient  auxiliaries  to  finish  soups,  &.c. 

The  proportion  of  wine  should  not  exceed  a  large  wine-glass- 
ful to  a  quart  of  soup.  This  is  as  much  as  can  be  admitted, 
without  the  vinous  flavor  becoming  remarkably  predominant; 
though  not  only  much  larger  quantities  of  wine  (of  which  claret  is 
incomparably  the  best,  because  it  contains  less  spirit  and  more 
flavor,  and  English  palates  are  less  acquainted  with  it),  but  even 
veritable  cau  de  vie  is  ordered  in  many  books,  and  used  by  many 
(especially  tavern  cooks).  So  much  are  their  soups  overloaded 


BROTHS  AND    SOUPS.  XXY 

with  relish,  that  if  you  will  eat  enough  of  them  they  will  certainly 
make  you  drunk,  if  they  don't  make  you  sick:  all  this  frequently 
arises  from  an  old  cook  measuring  the  excitability  of  the  eaters' 
palates  by  his  own,  which  may  be  so  blunted  by  incessant  tasting, 
that  to  awaken  it,  requires  win?  instead  of  water,  and  cayenne 
and  garlic  for  black  pepper  and  onion. 

The  art  of  composing  a  rich  soup  is  so  to  proportion  the  seve- 
ral ingredients  one  to  another,  that  no  particular  taste  be  strong- 
er than  the  rest,  but  to  produce  such  a  fine  harmonious  relish  that 
the  whole  is  delightful.  This  requires  that  judicious  combination 
of  the  materials  which  constitutes  the  "cluf  d'ceuvre"  of  culinary 
science. 

In  the  first  place,  take  care  that  the  roots  and  herbs  be  per- 
fectly well  cleaned ;  proportion  the  water  to  the  quantity  of  meat 
and  other  ingredients,  generally  a  pound  of  meat  to  a  quart  of 
water  for  soups,  and  double  that  quantity  for  gravies.  If  they 
stew  gently,  little  more  water  need  be  put  in  at  first  than  is  ex- 
pected at  the  end;  for  when  the  pot  is  covered  quite  close,  and 
the  fire  gentle,  very  little  is  wasted. 

Gentle  stewing  is  incomparably  the  best;  the  meat  is  more  ten- 
der, and  the  soup  better  flavored. 

It  is  of  the  first  importance  that  the  cover  of  a  soup-kettle 
should  fit  very  close,  or  the  broth  will  evaporate  before  you  are 
aware  of  it. 

Place  your  soup-pot  over  a  moderate  fire,  which  will  make  the 
witter  hot  without  causing  it  to  boil  for  at  least  half  an  hour;  if 
the  water  boils  immediately,  it  will  not  penetrate  the  meat,  and 
cleanse  it  from  the  clotted  blood,  and  other  matters  which  ought  to 
go  off'  in  scum;  the  meat  will  be  hardened  all  over  by  violent  heat; 
will  shrink  up  as  if  it  was  scorched,  and  give  hardly  any  gravy: 
on  the  contrary,  by  keeping  the  water  a  certain  time  heating  with- 
out boiling,  the  meat  swells,  becomes  tender,  its  fibres  arfe  dilated, 
and  it  yields  a  quantity  of  scum,  which  must  be  taken  off  as  soon 
as  it  appears. 

It  is  not  till  after  a  good  half  hour's  hot  infusion  that  we  may 
mend  the  fire,  and  make  the  pot  boil  :  still  continue  to  remove  the 
scum;  and  when  no  more  appears,  put  in  the  vegetables,  &c.  and 
a  little  salt.  These  will  cause  more  scum  to  rise,  which  must  be 
taken  off  immediately;  then  cover  the  pot  very  closely,  and  place 
it  at  a  proper  distance  from  the  fire,  where  it  will  boil  very  gently, 
and  equally,  and  by  no  means  fast. 

By  quick  and  strong  boiling  the  volatile  and  finest  parts  of  tho 
ingredients  are  evaporated,  and  fly  off  with  the  steam,  and  the 
coarser  parts  are  rendered  soluble  ;  so  you  lose  the  good,  and  get 
the  bad. 

Soups  will  generally  take  from  three  to  six  hours. 

Prepare  your  broths  and  soups  the  evening  before  you  want 
them.  This  will  give  you  more  time  to  attend  to  the  rest  of  your 
dinner  the  next  day;  and  when  the  soup  is  cold,  the  fat  may  be 

C 


XXVI  BROTHS     AND    SOUPS. 

much  more  easily  and  completely  removed  from  the  surface  of  it. 
When  you  decant  it,  take  care  not  to  disturb  the  settlings  at  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel,  which  are  so  tine  that  they  will  escape  through 
a  sieve,  or  even  through  a  TAMIS,  which  is  the  best  strainer,  the 
soups  appear  smoother  and  finer,  and  it  is  much  easier  cleaned 
than  any  sieve.  If  you  strain  it  while  it  is  hot,  pass  it  through  a 
clean  tamis  or  napkin,  previously  soaked  in  cold  water  ;  the  cold- 
ness of  this  will  coagulate  the  fat,  and  only  suffer  the  pure  broth 
to  pass  through. 

The  full  flavor  of  the  ingredients  can  only  be  extracted  by  very 
long  and  slow  simmering  ;  during  which  take  care  to  prevent 
evaporation,  by  covering  the  pot  as  close  as  possible:  the  best 
stew-pot  is  a  digester. 

Clear  soups  must  be  perfectly  transparent;  thickened  soups, 
about  the  consistence  of  rich  cream;  and  remember  that  thickened 
soups  require  nearly  double  the  quantity  of  seasoning. 

To  thicken  and  give  body  to  soups  and  sauces,  the  following 
materials  are  used:  they  must  be  gradually  mixed  with  the  soup 
till  thoroughly  incorporated  with  it;  and  it  should  have  at  least 
half  an  hour's  gentle  simmering  after:  if  it  is  at  all  lumpy,  pass  it 
through  a  tamis  or  a  fine  sieve.  Bread  raspings,  bread,  isinglass, 
potato  mucilage,  flour,  or  fat  skimmings  and  flour,  or  flour  and 
butter,  barley,  rice,  or  oatmeal  and  water  rubbed  well  together. 

To  their  very  rich  gravies,  &c.  the  French  add  the  white  meat 
of  partridges,  pigeons,  or  fowls,  pounded  to  a  pulp,  and  rubbed 
through  a  sieve.  A  piece  of  beef,  which  has  been  boiled  to  make 
broth,  pounded  in  the  like  manner  with  a  bit  of  butter  and  flour, 
and  gradually  incorporated  with  the  gravy  or  soup,  will  be  found 
a  satisfactory  substitute  for  these  more  expensive  articles. 

Meat  from  which  broth  has  been  made  and  all  its  juice  has  been 
extracted,  is  then  excellently  well  prepared  for  POTTING,  and  is 
quite  as  good,  or  better,  than  that  which  has  been  baked  till  it  is 
dry;  indeed,  if  it  be  pounded,  and  seasoned  in  the  usual  manner, 
it  will  be  an  elegant  and  savory  luncheon,  or  supper,  and  costs 
nothing  but  the  trouble  of  preparing  it,  which  is  very  little,  and  a 
relish  is  procured  for  sandwiches,  &c.  of  what  heretofore  has  been 
by  the  poorest  housekeeper  considered  the  perquisite  of  the  CAT. 

Keep  some  spare  broth  lest  your  soup-liquor  waste  in  boiling, 
and  get  too  thick,  and  for  gravy  for  your  made  dishes,  various 
sauces,  &c.;  for  many  of  which  it  is  a  much  better  basis  than 
melted  butter. 

T.he  soup  of  mock  turtle,  and  the  other  thickened  soups,  will 
supply  you  with  a  thick  gravy  sauce  for  poultry,  fish,  ragoutt,  &c. ; 
and  by  a  little  management  of  this  sort,  you  may  generally  con- 
trive to  have  plenty  of  good  gravies  and  good  sauces  with  very 
little  trouble  or  expense. 

If  soup  is  (too  thin  or  too  weak,  take  oFthe  cover  of  your  soup- 
pot,  and  let  it  boil  till  some  of  the  watery  part  of  it  has  evaporated, 
or  else  add  some  of  the  thickening  materials  we  have  before  men- 


OBSERVATIONS.  XXVU 

tioned  ;  and  have  at  hand  some  plain  browning.  This  simple  pre- 
paration is  much  better  than  any  of  the  compounds  bearing  that 
name;  as  it  colors  sauce  or  soup  without  much  interfering  with  its 
flavor,  and  is  a  much  better  way  of  coloring  them  than  burning 
the  surface  of  the  meat. 

When  soups  and  gravies  are  kept  from  day  to  day,  in  hot  weather, 
they  should  be  warmed  up  every  day,  and  put  into  fresh-scalded 
tureens  or  pans,  and  placed  in  a  cool  cellar;  in  temperate  weather 
every  other  day  may  be  enough. 

We  hope  we  have  now  put  the  common  cook  into  possession  of 
the  whole  arcana  of  soup-making,  without  much  trouble  to  herself, 
or  expense  to  her  employers.  It  would  greatly  diminish  the  ex- 
pense, and  improve  soups,  if  th«  agents  employed  to  give  them  a 
zest  were  not  put  in  above  fifteen  minutes  before  the  finish,  and 
half  the  quantity  of  spice,  &c.  would  do.  A  strong  heat  soon  dis- 
sipates the  spirit  of  the  wine,  and  evaporates  the  aroma  and  flavor 
of  the  spices  and  herbs,  which  are  volatile  in  the  heat  of  boiling 
water. 

Warm  fluids,  in  the  form  of  soup,  unite  with  our  juices  much 
sooner  and  better  than  those  that  are  cold  and  raw  :  on  this  ac- 
count, RESTORATIVE  SOUP  is  the  best  food  for  those  who  are  en- 
feebled by  disease  or  dissipation,  and  for  old  people,  whose  teeth 
and  digestive  organs  are  impaired. 

After  catching  cold,  in  nervous  headaches,  cholics,  indigestions, 
and  different  kinds  of  cramp  and  spasms  in  the  stomach,  warm 
broth  is  of  excellent  service. 

After  intemperate  feasting,  to  give  the  stomach  a  holyday  for  a 
day  or  two  by  a  diet  on  mutton  broth,  or  vegetable  soup,  Stc.  is  the 
best  way  to  restore  its  tone.  "  The  stretching  any  power  to  its 
utmost  extent  weakens  it.  If  the  stomach  be  every  day  obliged  to 
do  as  much  as  it  can,  it  will  every  day  be  able  to  do  less.  A  wise 
traveller  will  never  force  his  horse  to  perform  as  much  as  he  can 
in  one  day  upon  a  long  journey." 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  CERTAIN  ARTICLES. 

We  shall  conclude  these  Introductory  Observations,  with  a  few 
remarks  on  the  qualities  of  certain  Articles  in  common  use. 

Butler. 

Well  made  pure  butter  is  lenient  and  nourishing,  eaten  cold, 
in  moderation,  with  bread.  But  upon  hot  new  bread,  or  hot 
toast,  or  used  as  sauce  to  animal  food,  it  is  not  wholesome.  In 
the  two  first  instances  it  is  very  apt  to  turn  acid  in  the  stomach; 
and  in  the  latter,  to  float  uppermost  in  the  stomach,  and  disturb 
the  digestion.  If  melted  thick  and  carefully,  and  eaten  with 
vegetable  food  and  bread  only,  it  is  not  so  liable  to  this  objection. 

Butter  is  good  for  dry,  constipated  habits,  but  not  for  such  as 
are  bilious,  asthmatic,  or  corpulent. 


OBSERVATIONS. 

Honey. 

Honey  is  nourishing  and  wholesome,  particularly  for  persons 
with  coughs,  weak  lungs,  and  short  breath.  It  is  balsamic, 
cleansing,  and  makes  the  body  soluble. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  get  it  fresh  and  pure;  it  is  apt 
to  turn  sour  by  long  keeping. 

Sugar. 

Sugar  used  in  moderation  is  nourishing  and  good,  but  much 
of  it  destroys  the  appetite,  and  injures  the  digestion.  Moist 
sugar  is  the  sweetest,  and  most  opening;  refined  sugar,  of  a  bind- 
ing nature.  The  preparations  made  of  sugar,  such  as  barley- 
sugar,  sugar-candy,  &c.  are  all  indigestible  and  bad,  as  the  good 
properties  of  the  sugar  are  destroyed  by  the  process  it  undergoes 
in  the  making  them.  They  are  particularly  injurious  to  children, 
from  cloying  their  delicate  stomachs.  Young  children  are  in 
general  better  without  sugar,  as  it  is  very  apt  to  turn  acid  and 
disagree  with  weak  stomachs;  and  the  kind  of  food  they  take 
has  natural  sweetness  enough  in  it  not  at  all  to  require  it. 

Salt. 

Salt,  moderately  used,  especially  with  flesh,  fish,  butter,  and 
cheese,  is  very  beneficial,  as  it  naturally  stimulates  weak  or  dis- 
ordered stomachs,  and  checks  fermentations.  But  if  it  be  im- 
moderately used  it  has  a  contrary  effect.  Very  little  salt  should 
be  used  with  vegetable  food  of  the  grain  or  seed  kind;  for  the 
less  salt  that  is  put  to  it  the  milder,  cooler,  pleasanter,  and  easier 
or'  digestion  it  will  be.  Salt  excites  the  appetite,  assists  the 
stomach  in  digesting  crude  phlegmatic  substances,  is  cleansing, 
and  prevents  putrefaction;  but  if  too  much  used,  it  heats  and  dries 
the  blood  and  natural  moisture.  It  is  best  for  phlegmatic,  cold, 
and  moist  stomachs;  and  most  injurious  to  hot,  lean  bodies. 

Salt-petre  is  particularly  bad  for  bilious  persons. 

Vinegar. 

Vinegar  is  cooling,  opening,  excites  the  appetite,  assists  diges- 
tion, is  good  for  hot  stomachs,  resists  putrefaction,  and  there- 
fore very  good  against  pestilential  diseases.  Too  much  use  of  it 
injures  the  nerves,  emaciates  some  constitutions,  is  hurtful  to  the 
breast,  and  makes  people  look  old  and  withered,  with  pale  lips. 

The  best  vinegar  is  that  which  is  made  of  the  best  wines. 
Lemon-juice  and  verjuice  have  much  the  same  qualities  and  ef- 
fects as  vinegar. 

The  commonest  vinegar  is  least  adulterated. 

Mustard. 

Mustard  quickens  the  appetite,  warms  the  stomach,  assists  in 
digesting  hard  meats,  and  dries  up  surperfluous  moisture.  It  sel* 
dom  agrees  with  weak  stomachs.. 


OBSERVATIONS.  XXIX 

Spices. 

Cayenne  pepper,  black  pepper,  and  ginger,  may  be  esteemed 
the  best  of  spices. 

Nutmegs,  cloves,  mace,  cinnamon,  and  allspice,  are  generally 
productive  of  indigestion  and  headache  to  weak  persons. 

Garlic,  (fc. 

Garlic,  onions,  rocambole,  shallots,  leeks,  and  horse-radish, 
are  occasionally  good  for  strong  stomachs,  but  generally  disa- 
gree with  weak  stomachs. 

Tea. 

The  frequent  drinking  of  a  quantity  of  strong  tea,  as  is  the 
general  practice,  relaxes  and  weakens  the  tone  of  the  stomach, 
whence  proceeds  nausea  and  indigestion,  with  a  weakness  of  the 
nerves,  and  flabbiness  of  the  flesh,  and  very  often  a  pale  wan 
complexion.  Milk,  when  mixed  with  it  in  some  quantity,  lessens 
its  bad  qualities,  by  rendering  it  softer,  and  nutritious;  and,  with 
a  moderate  quantity  of  sugar,  it  may  then  be  a  proper  breakfast, 
as  a  diluent,  to  those  who  are  strong,  and  live  freely,  in  order  to 
cleanse  the  alimentary  passages,  and  wash  off  the  salts  from  the 
kidneys  and  bladder.  But  persons  of  weak  nerves  ought  to  ab- 
stain from  it  as  carefully  as  from  drams  and  cordial  drops;  as  it 
causes  the  same  kind  of  irritation  on  the  tender  delicate  fibres  of 
the  stomach,  which  ends  in  low-ness,  trembling  and  vapors. 

It  should  never  be  drank  hot  by  any  body.  Green  tea  is  less 
wholesome  than  black  or  bohea. 

Coffee. 

Coffee  affords  very  little  nourishment,  and  is  apt  to  occasion 
heat,  dryness,  stimulation  and  tremors  of  the  nerves,  and  for 
these  reasons  is  thought  to  occasion  palsies,  watchfulness,  and 
leanness.  Hence  it  is  very  plain  that  it  must  be  pernicious  to  hot, 
dry,  and  bilious  constitutions.  If  moderately  used  it  may  be 
beneficial  to  phlegmatic  persons,  but,  if  drank  very  strong,  or  in 
grejit  quantities,  it  will  prove  injurious  even  to  them. 

The  following  remarks  on  Coffee,  were  published  in  London, 
by  a  physician.  1st.  The  raw  coffee  should  be  round  and  small 
grained,  free  from  dirt  and  of  a  light  color.  It  should  have  no 
appearance  of  mouldiness,  and  be  kept  quite  free  from  any  strong 
smell.  It  should  not  be  long  kept  in  sacks  with  other  provisions, 
as  there  is  no  substance  more  apt  to  obtain  strong  and  disagree- 
able odors  from  the  presence  of  its  neighbors.  Rum  injures  it; 
and  Miller  even  goes  so  far  as  to  state  that  a  few  bags  of  pepper 
on  board  a  ship  from  India  upon  one  occasion  spoiled  the  whole 
cargo. 

C2 


XXX  OBSEHVATIONS. 

2nd.  When  the  grains  are  large,  flat,  and  of  a  green  color, 
they  should  be  kept  on  hand,  in  a  dry  situation,  a  long  time  before 
use.  Every  West  India  planter  knows  this  fact,  although  his 
interest  often  induces  him  to  send  the  article  to  market  before  it 
is  old  and  dry  enough. 

3d.  Roasting  coffee  is  by  far  the  most  difficult  operation  of  the 
housekeeper;  when  carried  far  enough,  an  aromatic  oil  is  formed 
by  the  heat  and  forces  itself  out  upon  the  surface  of  the  grains, 
giving  them  a  glossy  appearance,  and  an  odor  which  is  consider- 
ed their  perfection;  yet  too  little  roasting  prevents  the  aroma 
from  appearing,  and  too  much  completely  volatilizes  it.  leaving 
nothing  but  a  flat  bitter  taste.  The  heat  should  be  strong  and 
the  operation  shortened  as  much  as  possible  without  burning  the 
grains.  The  roaster  should  be  close  or  well  covered  all  the  time, 
and  in  order  to  improve  the  looks  and  flavor,  a  small  piece  of 
butter  may  be  added  to  the  coffee,  while  parching. 

4th.  When  thus  prepared,  coffee  may  be  preserved  for  use  in 
large  quantities,  without  losing  niuch  of  its  freshness,  provided 
the  vessels  containing  it  be  well  covered. 

5th.  An  infusion  of  coffee  is  better  than  a  decoction,  simply 
because  the  heat,  in  the  last  case,  b(-ing  stronger  and  more  last- 
ing, drives  off  more  of  the  aromatic  oil.  It  is  better,  therefore, 
to  grind  the  coffee  very  fine,  and  then  to  expose  it,  by  means  of 
a  bag  or  strainer,  to  the  action  of  boiling  water,  than  to  boil  it 
any  length  of  time.  Heat,  though  unavoidable,  injures  the  flavor, 
and  the  best  coffee  I  remember  to  have  tasted  was  made  by  ex- 
posing the  powder  to  a  pressure  of  cold  water;  a^ea-spoonful  of 
this  extract,  thrown  into  a  cup  of  hot  water,  was  sufficient.  It  is 
not  a  bad  method  to  allow  the  ground  coffee  to  lie  in  cold  water 
between  meals,  and  then  prepare  it  by  adding  hot  water.  Just  in 
proportion  to  the  continuance  of  heat,  in  this  and  in  the  last 
operation,  the  fragrance  disappears,  and  is  replaced  by  a  strong 
bitter  taste,  which,  according  to  the  experiments  of  Chenevix,  de- 
pends upon  the  presence  of  tannin  (resembling  that  in  tan  bark). 
Roasting,  besides  forming  this  bitter  substance,  deprives  the  cof- 
fee of  its  nutritious  qualities. 

Chocolate. 

Is  rich,  nutritious,  and  soothing,  saponaceous,  and  cleansing; 
from  which  quality  it  often  helps  digestion,  and  excites  the  appe- 
tite. It  as  only  proper  for  some  of  the  leaner  and  stronger  sort  of 
phlegmatic  constitutions,  and  some  old  people  who  are  healthy, 
and  accustomed  to  bodily  exercise. 

Cocoa. 

Is  of  the  same  nature  as  chocolate,  but  not  so  rich;  and  there- 
fore lighter  upon  the  stomach. 


OBSERVATIONS.  XXXI 

Fruit. 

Fruits  are  of  different  degrees  of  digestibility.  Those  of  a  hard 
texture,  as  some  kinds  of  apples,  melons,  apricots,  several  sorts 
of  fleshy  plums,  and  all  immature  fruits,  are  difficult  of  digestion. 

Strawberries,  raspberries,  currants,  gooseberries,  cherries, 
green-gages,  peaches,  nectarines,  melting  pears,  mulberries,  figs, 
grapes,  medlars,  when  all  quite  ripe,  are  more  easily  dissolved  in 
the  stomach. 

Fruit,  moderately  eaten,  is  wholesome,  particularly  as  correct- 
ing the  grossness  of  animal  food.  But  an  excess  of  it,  and  es- 
pecially of  unripe  fruit,  is  productive  of  many  diseases;  amongst 
children  in  particular,  it  often  occasions  such  as  the  nettle  rash 
and  St.  Anthony's  fire. 

Fruit  invariably  disagrees  with  bilious  persons;  but  is  a  sover- 
eign remedy  for  the  sea  scurvy,  and  for  diseases  arising  from  an 
excess  of  animal  food. 

JVu/s  and  Mmonda. 

Most  kinds  of  nuts,  and  almonds,  from  their  milky  or  oily  na- 
ture, contain  a  good  deal  of  nourishment;  but  they  require  to  be 
well  chewed,  as  they  are  difficult  of  digestion.  Persons  with 
weak  stomachs  should  not  eat  them.  The  worst  time  at  which 
they  can  be  eaten  is  after  a  meal. 

Olives. 

Olives  that  have  been  gathered  immature  or  unripe,  and  put  into 
a  pickle  to  keep  them  sound,  are  apt,  especially  if  frequently  eaten, 
to  obstruct  the  stomach  and  passages.  The  best  way  of  eating 
them  is  with  good  bread,  when  the  stomach  is  properly  empty.  To 
eat  them  upon  a  full  stomach  is  very  bad. 



NOTE. 

Receipts  for  making  all  kinds  of  Bread,  Biscuits,  Blancmange, 
Buns,  Broth,  Cakes,  Creams,  Custards,  Jams,  Jellies,  Paste,  Pies, 
Puddings,  Soups,  Sauces,  &c.,  will  be  found  under  these  general 
beads ;  the  method  of  cooking  the  several  meats  are  arranged  under 
the  name  of  each  meat.  Still  there  are  interspersed  throughout  the 
book  single  receipts  under  the  letter  of  the  name,  of  which  many  of 
the  above  articles  are  composed.  We  will  instance  the  following, 
viz : — 

Cakes, — Almond,  Crumpets,  Echaudes,  Fanchonettes,   Flemish  wa- 
fers, Frangipane,  Gateau,  Gingerbread,  Hedgehog,  Jumbles, 
Kisses,  Lemon  Bonbons,  Macaroons,  Madelains,  Meat,  Muf- 
fins, Oat,  Orange,  Perlingo,  Sally  Lunns. 
Bread, — Almond,  Brentford,  Filbert,  French  Rolls,  Rusks. 
Creams, — Under  various  fruits  of  which  they  are  made. 
Veal, — Friar's  chicken,  Gratin,  and  miuiy  articles   under  Calf. 
Fowls, — See  also  Chickens,  Capons. 
Beef, — See  also  Ox. 


XXX11. 


The  following  Engraving  represents  the  method  of  dividing  an  Ox 
for  the  table,  in  England,  and  in  most  of  the  southern  cities  of  the 
United  States.  The  method  in  Boston  varies  considerably,  dividing 
into  smaller  pieces,  and  this  plan  we  pursue  in  the  following  tables ; 
but  the  manner  of  cooking  each  is  nearly  the  same. 


1.  Sirloin. 

2.  Rump. 

3.  Edge  Bone. 

4.  Buttock. 

5.  Mouse  Buttock. 

6.  Veiny  Piece. 
1.  Thick  Flank. 

8.  Thin  Flank. 

9.  Leg". 


10.  Fore  rib:  Five  ribs. 

11.  Middle  rib:  Four  ribs. 

12.  Ghuck :  Three  ribs. 

13.  Shoulder  or  leg-of-mutton  piece. 

14.  Brisket. 

15.  Clod. 

16.  Neck,  or  Sticking  Piece. 

17.  Shin. 

18.  Cheek. 


MARKETING   TABLES. 


Sirloin 
Rump 
Edge  Bone 

Round 

Veiny  Piece 
Thick  Flank 
Thin  Flank 
Leg  Ran 
Leg 

Price  per  Ib. 
10  to  12 
10  to  12 
6  to  8 

8  to  10 

6  to  8 
6  to  8 
6 
4 
2 

cents 

n 

5> 

n 

n 
n 
n 
» 
» 

BEEF. 
THE  HIND  QUARTER. 

Method  of  cooking. 
Roasted. 

Roasted,  or  Steak,  or  Stew. 
Boiled. 

f  Alamode,  Boiled,  or  savory  salt- 

\      ed  Beef. 

Steaks  or  Roast ;  or  baked  or  salted. 
Steaks,  or  corned. 

do. 

Boil  ;  Soup,  or  Stew. 
Soup  or  Stew. 

THE  FORE  QUARTER. 


First  Cut,  2  Ribs  10  cents 

Second  Cut,  2  Ribs  10  „ 

Tliird  Cut,  2  Ribs  8  „ 

Fourth  Cut,  2  Ribs  6  „ 

Chuck  Rib  5  „ 

Shoulder  of  Mutton  Piece  5  „ 

Shoulder  Clod  3  „ 

Brisket  6  , 


Rattlcran 
Sticking  Piece 
Neck 

Shin 

Head  (20  cents) 

Tail  (2  cents) 

Heels,  given  with  the  head 


Roast, 
do. 
do. 
do. 

Boil  or  Stew,  or  for  making  gravy. 
Steaks  or  Bouilli. 
Boil  or  Soup,  or  Beef  Sausages. 

(  Boil,  or  Bouilli ;  or  stewing,  or 

(      Harricot,  or  Salted. 
Boil. 

Boil,  or  Soup. 
Gravy. 

t  Soup ;    excellent   Scotch  barley 

\      Broth,  Stewed. 
Soup,  Stewed. 
Soup,  Stewed. 
Boiled,  Jelly,  Soup,  s 


MUTTON. 


Leg 
Loin 


8  to  10  cents 
6  to    8    „ 

5  to  6 


K :u- k.  neck  end 

Rack,  best  end 

Shoulder 

Breast 

Head 

The  Chine  or  the  Saddle,  two 
Loins.      The  Haunch 
Leg  and  part  of  the  Loin 


6  to  8 
6 
6 
4 


two  \ 

is  a  > 
in,     J 


Boil,  Roast. 

Chops — Roast,  Boil, 

I  Boil,  Roast,  Irish  Stew,  Harricot, 

(      Stewed,  Broth. 
Chops,  or  Broth. 
Roast. 

Broth, — Grilled. 
Broth. 

Roasted,  Venisonified. 


XXXI V  MARKETING. 

VEAL. 

Loin  8  to  10  cents        Roast. 

Leg  ,,  „  Cutlets,  Roast,  Boil. 

„...  (  Roasted,    Veal    Olives,     Scotch 

»  »  \      Collops. 

Knuckle,  or  whole  Leg  8  Broth,  Ragout,  Stew,  Soup. 


Breast  8  to  10 

Breast  and  Neck  6 

Rack  6 

Shoulder  6 

Brisket  8 

Cutlets  1 0 


Roast, 

Roast,  Stew,  Ragout,  Curry. 


Soup — Chops  to  fry. 
Roast,  or  Bake. 
Stewed,  Ragout. 
Fried,  Broiled. 
Head,  scalded,  (50  to  60  cts.  each}  Broiled  plain,  Hash. 

BEEF  is  plentiest  and  cheapest  from  October  to  January;  and  best 
from  January  to  May. 

VEAL  is  best  from  Jlpril  to  July. 

MUTTON  is  best  from  October  to  June. 

GRASS  LAMB  is  best  from  June  to  October. 

The  Quality  of  Butcher  Meat  varies  quite  as  much  as  the  price  of  it 
— according  to  its  age — how  it  has  been  fed — and  especially  how  it  has 
been  treated  the  week  before  it  has  been  killed. 

PORK. 

Comes  into  Market.  Plentiest. 

Roasting  Pigs                                    May  June. 

Quarter  Pork                                      July  August. 

Spare  Ribs  and  Chine                      Aug.  Nov.  &  Dec. 
Middlings                                     salt,  all  the  year. 
Bacon  Hams                               November,  and  continue  all  the  year. 

POULTRY. 

Comes  into  Market.  Plentiest. 

Chickens                                           July  Nov. 

Fowls                                          All  the  year  do. 

Ducks                                                July  October. 

Geese                                              August  Nov. 

Turkeys                                        September  Nov.  &  Dec. 

Wild  Ducks                                         do.  Oct.  &  Apr. 

Brants                                                 April  May. 

Partridges                                    September  October. 

Quails                                                 do.  January. 

Woodcocks                                       July  August. 

Obs. — POULTRY  is  in  greatest  perfection,  when  in  greatest  plenty. 

The  price  of  it  varies  as  much  as  the  size  and  quality  of  it,  and  the 
supply  at  market,  and  the  demand  for  it. 

It  is  generally  dearest  from  March  to  July,  and  cheapest  about  Sep- 
tember, when  the  Game  season  commences,  and  the  weather  being  colder, 
allows  of  its  being  brought  from  more  distant  parts. 


MARKETING.  XXXV 

The  above  information  will,  we  trust,  lie  very  acceptable  to  Economi- 
cal Families,  who,  from  hearing  the  very  high  price  Poultry  sometimes 
costs,  are  deterred  from  ever  inquiring  about  it.  In  the  cheap  seasons 
we  have  noted,  it  is  sometimes  as  cheap  as  Butcher-meat. 

Those  who  pay  the  highest,  do  not  always  pay  the  dearest,  price.  In 
fact,  the  Best  Meat  is  the  cheapest ;  and  those  who  treat  a  tradesman 
liberally,  have  a  much  better  chance  of  being  well  served,  than  those  who 
are  forever  bargaining  for  the  Market  Penny.  In  dividing  the  Joints, 
there  is  always  an  opportunity  of  apportioning  the  Bones,  Fat,  Flaps, 
Sfc.  so  as  to  make  up  a  variation  of  much  more  than  a  penny  per  pound 
in  most  pieces  ;  and  a  Butcher  will  be  happy  to  give  the  turn  of  his  knife 
in  favor  of  that  Customer  icho  cheerfully  pays  the  fair  price  of  the  arti- 
cle he  purchases ;  have  those  who  are  unwilling  to  do  so  any  reason  to 
complain "?  Have  they  not  invited  such  conduct. 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  CURING  AND  COOKING  PICKLED  FISH.» 

The  use  of  Pickled  Fish,  such  as  Mackerel,  Salmon,  Shad,  &c. 
is  becoming  more  general  than  formerly,  and  would  be  still  more 
extensive  if  the  proper  mode  of  preparing  them  for  the  table  was 
better  understood.  These  fish  constitute  not  only  a  salutary  diet, 
but  in  many  cases  makes  a  very  beneficial  change  in  our  food. 

Whoever  will  give  the  following  directions  a  fair  trial  will  be- 
come sensible  of  their  value: — 

First.  The  fish  should  be  kept  covered  by  the  pickle  by  means 
of  a  flat  stone  or  slate,  laid  on  them.  The  oil,  or  animal  fat, 
which  floats  on  the  top  of  the  cask,  should  not  be  removed,  as  it 
prevents  the  fish  from  rusting;  but  in  taking  the  fish  from  the 
barrel  or  keg,  this  oil  ought  to  be  put  aside,  care  being  taken  not 
to  let  the  fish  touch  it.  Secondly — The  fish  should  be  washed 
clean,  then  put  to  soak  in  a  large  quantity  of  water  for  eight  or 
ten  hours,  with  the  flesh  side  down.  The  time  of  soaking  may  be 
varied  to  suit  the  palate.  It  must  again  be  washed  clean,  put  it 
to  soak  six  or  eight  hours  in  milk,  (if  you  have  it)  then  dry  it  by 
the  fire.  Thirdly — When  dry  lay  it  on  the  gridiron,  with  the  flesh 
side  downward,  over  pretty  lively  coals,  for  five  minutes,  or  till  it 
is  moderately  browned,  then  turn  it  with  a  plate,  or  some  flat  in- 
strument that  will  not  break  the  skin,  and  let  it  remain  over  the 
coals  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  or  till  it  is  cocked  sufficiently.  Slide 
it  off  the  gridiron  into  the  dish,  and  strip  off  the  backbone  with  a 
broad  knife:  pat  the  fish,  to  cause  the  thick  part  of  the  fish  to 
absorb  the  fat  from  the  belly  part;  use  no  butter — then  you  will 
enjoy  all  the  flavor  and  juices  of  the  fish. 

If  a  Mackerel  or  Shad  so  prepared  does  not  relish,  it  must  be 
more  the  fault  of  the  palate,  than  of  the  food.  How  many  arti- 
cles, capable  of  being  made  into  excellent  dishes,  are  lost  or 
spoiled  from  want  of  care  and  skill  in  dressing  them. 

i  he  whole  beauty  »f  pickled  Fish  dep^mls  upon  the  right  method  of  cooking  it,  we 
in«ert  by  itself  the  rereipt  nf  C:i|it.  Henry  I'urkitt,  .Mn.-^icliusetts  Inspector  of  Fish,  whu 
obligingly  handuil  it  tu  the  Eilit.ir. 


TABLE 

OF 

WEIGHTS   AND  MEASURES. 


By  which  persons  not  having  scales  and  weights  at  hand  may 
readily  measure  the  articles  wanted  to  form  any  receipt,  without 
the  trouble  of  weighing.  Allowance  to  be  made  for  any  ex- 
traordinary dryness  or  moisture  of  the  article  weighed  or  meas- 
ured. 


WEIGHT  AND  MEASURE. 


Eggs 

Brown  sugar 

White  sugar,  powdered 

Loaf-sugar,  broken 

Butter — when  soft  - 

Indian  meal 

Wheat  flour 


ten  eggs  are         -  one  pound, 

one  pound,  two  ounces,  is  one  quart, 

one  pound,  one  ounce,  is  one  quart, 

one  pound  is  -        -  one  quart, 

one  pound  is       -  one  quart, 

one  pound,  two  ounces,  is  one  quart, 

one  pound  is  -  one  quart. 


LIQUIDS. 


Four  large  table-spoonfuls  are 
Eight  large  table-spoonfuls  are 
Sixteen  large  table-spoonfuls  are 


half  a  gill, 
one  gill, 
half  a  pint. 


A  common-sized  wine-glass 
A  common-sized  tumbler  holds 


half  a  gill, 
half  a  pint. 


THE 


ALM 

ABERDEEN  CRULLA.   (SeeCakei.) 
ALAMODE  BEEF.     (See  Beef.) 
ALAMODE  VEAL.     (See  Veal.) 

ALMOND  CHEESECAKES.      (1) 

Take  half  a  pound  of  Jordan  almonds,  lay 
them  in  cold  water  all  night;  the  next  morn- 
ing blanch  them  in  cold  water ;  then  take  them 
out  and  dry  them  in  a  clean  cloth,  beat  them 
very  line  in  a  little  orange  flower  water;  then 
take  MX  eggs,  leave  out  four  whites,  with  a 
little  Ix-aten  mare;  lieat  them  well  in  a  mar- 
ble mortar;  take  ten  (unices  of  fresh  Imtter, 
melt  it,  add  a  little  grated  lemon-jieel,  and 
put  them  in  the  mortar  with  the  other  ingre- 
dients; mix  all  well  together  and  till  ynr 
patty-pans,  having  lined  them  with  thin  puff 
paste. 

ALMOND  CHEESECAKES.     (2) 

Blanch  and  pound  four  ounces  of  almonds, 
and  a  |i-w  hitter  with  a  spoonful  of  water; 
thru  add  llnir  ou.i.vs  of  siiLjar  [xmnded,  a 
spoonful  of  cream,  and  I  he  whites  of  two  eggs 
well  beaten ;  mix  all  iis  (mirk  as;  |x>ssil>ie; 
put  intip  \ery  small  |xitt\-;>ans,  and  bake  in 
a  prettN  warm  oxen  twenty  minutes. 

A  I.  M  ( )  N  D  CHEESECAKES.      (3) 

Blanch  six  i  unices  of  gweet,  and  lialf  an  (iiince 
of  hitter  almonds;  let  them  lie  half  an  hour 
in  a  drying  stoxe,  or  Ix-fore  the  fire;  pound 
tlicni  very  line  in  a  mortar,  with  two  tajble- 
spoonliils  of  rose  water,  to  prevent  tliem  from 
oiling;  set  into  a  stew-pan  half  a  |x>und  of 
fresh  butter;  set  it  in  a  warm  place,  and 
cream  it  very  smooth  with  the  hand,  and  add 
it  to  tin-  almonds,  with  six  ounces  of  sifted 
loaf  sugar,  a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  some 
P<HM!  cream,  and  four  eggs;  nib.  all  well  to- 
gether with  the  pestle;  cover  a  patty-pan 
with  puff  paste;  fill  in  the  mixture;  orna- 
ment it  with  slices  of  candied  lemon-peel  and 
almond-  split,  and  bake  it  halt' an  hour  in  a 
brisk  ..,,11. 

\|.MI)\|)  C<  >\SF.UVK,  BURNT. 
Blanch  and  cut  >ix  ounces  of  sweet  almonds 
into  -mall  stri|is,  lay  tliem  on  paper  and  put 
them  into  an  oven :  when  tln-\  are  brown, 


ALM 

take  them  out,  and  throw  them  into  two 
pounds  of  sugar  boiled  to  petit  caste,  stir 
the  mixture  well  until  it  begins  to  blow,  and 
then  pour  it  into  paper  cases  or  moulds. 

ALMONDS,  ENGLISH  FASHION. 
Mix  almonds  and  filberts  sca'ded  in  equal 
quantities ;  chop  one  half  very  fine,  cut  the 
rest  each  into  two  or  three  slices ;  put  the 
whole  in  double  their  weight  of  sugar, 
prepared  by  boiling  it  with  some  lemon- 
peel  rasped;  stir  the  almonds  very  well 
in  the  sugar,  taking  it  off  the  fire,  and 
add  one  or  two  whites  of  eggs ;  pour  it  in 
paper  large  enough  to  contain  the  whole,  ;uid 
cut  it  in  slices  for  use  as  you  think  proper, 
wlieii  baked  as  usual. 

ALMOND  FRAZE,  Blanch  a  pound 
of  Jordan  almonds,  and  sleep  them  in  a  pint 
of  cream,  ten  yolks,  and  four  whites  of  < 
take  out  the  almonds  and  pound  them  fine  in 
a  marble  mortar;  then  mix  them  again  in 
tl»e  cream  and  eggs,  put  in  sugar  and  grated 
bread,  and  stir  them  all  lordlier;  then  put 
some  fresh  butter  into  the  pan,  let  it  be  hot 
and  IMIUI-  it  in,  stirring  it  in  the  pan  till  they 
are  of  a  sufficient  consistence ;  and  when 
enough,  turn  it  into  a  dish,  strew  sugar  over 
it,  and  serve  it  up. 

ALMOND  FRITTERS.  Blanch  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  pour 
over  them  three  table-spoonfuls  of  rose  water, 
and  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  a  pint  of  cream ; 
let  them  stand  two  or  three  hours,  then  pound 
them  in  a  mortar  till  they  become  quite  a 
paste ;  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  two 
or  three  pounded  Naples  biscuit;  sweeten 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  mix  all  well 
together ;  melt  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  w  hen  hot,  pour  in 
the  mixture,  ami  stir  it  constantly  till  thick, 
and  of  a  light  brown  cO(or.  Serve  it  with 
sifted  loaf  sugar  over  the  top,. 

ALMOND  BROWN  GINGER. 
BREAD.  Beat  a  quarter  of  a  (xxind  of 

blanched  almonds  with  thin  gum-water,  a 
few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  a  little  powdered 
cinnamon, «  et  some  ginger  finely  grated  and 


ALM 


ANC 


icercd  to  give  it  a  brown  color;  sweeten 
and  smooth  it  well,  roll  it  out  thin,  and  cut 
it  into  squares;  dry  it  in  a  stove  or  before 
the  fire. 

ALMOND  ICEING,  for  BRIDE  CAKE. 
The  whites  of  six  eggs,  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  double-refined  sugar,  a  pound  of  Jordan 
almonds  blanched  and  ]>ounded  with  a  little 
rose  water ;  mix  altogether  and  whisk  it  well 
for  an  hour  or  two,  lav  it  over  the  cake  and 
put  it  in  die  oven. 

ALMOND  MACAROONS,  BITTER. 
Take  a  pound  of  bitter  almonds,  rub  them 
well  in  a  clean  cloth,  and  beat  them  to  a  paste 
with  the  whites  of  three  or  four  eggs ;  then 
put  them  into  an  earthen  pan  with  three 
pounds  of  powder-sugar,  mix  them  together 
well,  and  if  the  paste  should  be  too  dry, 
moisten  it  with  white  of  egg.  Drop  it  on 
sheets  of  paper  in  lumps  about  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  bake  them  in  a  close,  gentle  oven. 

ALMOND  MACAROONS,  SWEET, 

Are  done  in  the  same  way-  But  two  pounds 
of  sugar  are  sufficient  for  a  pound  of  almonds. 

ALMOND  MILK  SOUP.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  put  them  on  tlie  fire 
with  some  writer  r.ntil  near  boiling,  then 
blanch  and  throw  them  into  fresh  water; 
drain  and  pound  them.  Boil  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter, a  little  sugar,  salt,  cinnamon,  coriander, 
and  lemon-peel,  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and 
rub  the  almonds  through  a  sieve  to  this.  Lay 
some  slices  of  toasted  bread  in  a  dish,  and 
pour  the  milk  of  almonds  on  it,  as  hot  as 
possible  without  boiling. 

ALMOND  PUFFS.  Blanch  two  ounces 
of  sweet  almonds,  and  beat  them  fine  with 
orange  flower  water,  whisk  the  whites  of 
three  eggs  to  a  high  froth,  strew  in  a  little 
sifted  sugar,  mix  the  almonds  with  the  sugar 
and  eggs,  and  add  more  sugar  till  as  thick 
as  paste.  Lay  it  in  cakes,  and  bake  it  on 
paper  in  a  cool  oven. 

ALMOND  RICE.  Blanch  sweet  al- 
!;i->  '<ls.  and  pound  them  in  a  marble  mortar; 
mix  them  in  a  little  boiling  water;  press 
them  as  long  as  there  is  milk  in  the  almonds, 
adding  fresh  water  every  time;  to  every 
quait  of  almond-juice,  put  a  quarter  of  a. 
pound  of  rice  and  two  teaspoonsful  of  orange 
flower  water;  mix  them  all  together,  and 
simmer  it  over  a  slow  charcoal  fire ;  stir  it 
repeatedly,  and  when  done,  sweeten  it  at 
pleasure;  serve  it  with  beaten  cinnamon 
strewed  over. 

ALMOND  ROLLS,  BITTER.  Blanch 
and  pound  eight  ounces  of  almonds  five  of 


sweet  and  three  of  bitter)  to  a  very-  fine 
paste;  then  place  ei^lit  ounces  of  tlonr  on 
your  slab;  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  and 
put  into  it  eight  ounces  of  powder-sugar,  the 
yolks  of  four  egg.*,  and  a  grain  of  salt;  mix 
them  all  well  together  into  a  firm  smootn 
paste;  roll  it  out  and  cut  it  into  four  equal 
parts;  roll  each  piece  to  the  .same  Icii^'h; 
cut  them  into  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  wal- 
nut, and  form  them  to  the  shape  of  a  wild 
turnip,  and  as  you  do  them  put  them  on  a 
baking-tin  lightly  buttered  ;  dorez  them  and 
bake  diem  of  a  proper  color  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Wlien  dies  are  taken  from  die  oven, 
let  diem  stand  a  little  while  to  dry. 

ALMOND  PUDDING.  (See  Pud- 
ding.) 

ALMOND  TUMBLES.  Blanch  and 
pound  three  ounces  of  almonds  very  fine, 
when  almost  beaten  enough,  take  die  white 
of  an  egg  beaten  to  frodi,  one  pound  of  dou- 
ble-refined sugar  well  beaten,  and  put  it  in 
by  degrees,  working  it  into  a  paste  with  your 
hands,  roll  it  out  and  bake  it  on  buttered 
plates  ui  a  hot  oven. 

AMERICAN  BLANCMANGE.  (Set 
Blancmange.) 

AMERICAN  GINGERBREAD.   Take 

half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  melted,  one  pound 
and  a  half  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  the  same 
quantity  of  brown  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  pounded  ginger,  nine  eggs,  the  yolks  and 
whites  separately  lieaten,  one  glass  of  rose 
water,  and  one  of  white  wine;  mix  all  these 
well  togedier,  and  Ijcat  it  for  an  hour ;  then 
with  a  spoon  spread  it  over  flat  tin  pans, 
about  die  thickness  of  a  penny-piece;  bake 
it  of  a  light  brown,  and  while  warm,  cut  it 
into  oblong  pieces,  and  place  them  on  end 
till  cool,  when  diey  will  be  very  crisp. 

AMERICAN  VINEGAR.  (See  Vin- 
egar.) 

AMERICAN   SNOW   BALLS.     Boil 

some  rice  in  milk  till  it  be  swelled  and  soft; 
pare  and  carefully  scoop  out  die  core  of  five 
or  six  good-sized  apples,  put  into  each  a  lit- 
tle grated  lemon-peel  and  cinnamon ;  place 
as  much  of  die  rice  upon  a  bit  of  linen  aa 
will  entirely  cover  anapplc.and  tie  each  close- 
ly. Boil  them  two  hours,  and  serve  them 
widi  melted  butter,  sweetened  widi  sugar. 

ANCHOVIES.  Wash  half  a  dozen  an- 
!  chovies,  and  take  the  meat  from  die  bones ; 
j  cut  diem  into  four  fillets,  place  them  on  a 
i  dish  with  some  sweet  herbs,  rut  small ;  and 

the  yolks  and  whites  of  liard  eggs,  also  cut 

small. 


ANC 


APP 


ANCHOVY  BUTTER.  Wash  your 
anchovies  carefully,  take  out  the  lames,  and 
dry  them;  then  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
until  they  are  reduced  to  a  paste;  and  mix 
this  paste  with  double  the  quantity  of  fresh 
butter. 

ANCHOVIES,  BUTTER  OF.     Wash 

from  the  pickle  some  fine  young  unchoxies, 
bone,  and  take  off  the  heads,  then  pound  tliein 
in  a  mortar  xvitli  fresh  butteY  till  quite  smooth, 
and  rub  it  through  a  sieve. 

ANCHOVY  PASTE.  Pound  them  in  a 
mortar,  then  rub  it  through  a  line  sieve;  pot 
it,  cover  it  xvith  clarified  butter,  and  keep  it 
in  a  cool  place.  If  you  hax  e  essence  of  ancho- 
vy, you  may  make  anchovy  paste  extempore, 
by  rubbing  the  essence  xvith  as  much  llour  as 
will  make  a  paste.  Mem. — This  is  merely 
mentioned  as  the  means  of  making  it  imme- 
diately ;  it  xv ill  uot- keep. 

AN  CHO VY  POWDER.  Pound  the  fish 
in  a  mortar,  nib  them  through  a  sieve,  and 
make  them  into  a  paste  xvidi  (tried  tlour,  roll 
it  into  tliin  cakes,  and  dry  lii;'in  i:i  a  Dutch 
oven  lieforc  a  slow  fire;  pounded  to  a  tine 
powder,  and  put  into  a  well-stopped  bottle,  it 
will  keep  for  years;  it  is  a  very  savoury 
relish,  sprinkled  on  bread  and  butter  for  a 
sandwich,  &c.  See  Oyster  Powder. 

ANCHOVY  TOAST.     (1)     Cut  some 

thin  slices  of  bread  about  the  length  and 
breadth  of  a  linger;  fry  them  in  oil.  Place 
them  on  a  di-li,  and  pour  on  them  a  sauce 
made  i>f  'il.  vinegar,  whole  pepper,  \<,-. 
s  allion,  and  slrallols,  cut  up  together.  Then 
cut  the  anehoxies  into  ihiu  slices,  and  lay 
them  on  tin- 

AM'HOVY  TOAST.     (2)     Bone  and 

xv.i.-h  I  he  anchovies,  pound  them'  in  a  mortar 
xvith  a  iitile  fresh  butter;  rub  them  through  a 
sieve  and  spn  ad  them  on  a  toast.  You  may 
add,  while  pounding  the  anchovies,  a  little 
iiuide  mn.-tard  and  curry  [xnvder,  or  a  few 
grains  of  ( 'aycnne,  or  a  little  mace  or  oilier 
.-pic.-,  li  ma;.  In-  made  still  moi e  savoury,  by 
frying  the  toast  in  clariiied  butter. — N.B. 
Keep  your  aiichoxies  xxell  covered;  first  tie 
doxvn  your  jar  xvith  bladder  moistened  xvith 
vinegar,  and  then  xvi|xd  dry;  tie  leather 
over  that:  when  you  ojx-.i  a  jar,  moisten  the 
bladder,  and  it  will  come  oil  easily;  as  soon 
as  you  have  taken  out  the  full,  replace  the 
coverings;  the  air  soon  rusts  and  spoils 
anchovies. 

ANCHOVY  TOAST.     (3)     Bone  and 

roll  up  two  or  diree  anchoivies,  place  them 
upon  pieces  of  dry  toast,  and  garnish  widi 
curled  parsley. 


ANGELICA  TO  CANDY.      Cut  die 

stalks  when  thick  and  tender,  put  them  on 
in  txiiling  water,  and  when  very  tender,  drain 
it  off,  and  throw  them  into  cold  water;  peel 
otTthe  skin,  and  scald  them  in  a  thin  sirup, 
made  with  the  same  proportion  of  sugar  that 
there  is  of  fruit ;  heat  it  twice  a  day  till  the 
sirup  is  almost  dried  iu,  and  then  dry  them 
under  garden  glasses,  or  in  a  stove,  and  turn 
t lii-in  twice  a  day. 

APPLES.  Cooks,  in  choosing  apples  for 
Culinary  purpeses,  should  always  be  guided 
by  the  xxei^ht,  tin-  i;eax  iest  being  always  the 
best;  and  ihc.se  are  particularly  to  be  taken, 
xvhich,  upon  being  pressed  by  the  thumb, 
yield  with  a  slight  cracking  noise.  Large 
apples  possessing  diese  qualities  should  be 
'akr  i  in  preference  to  small  ones,  as  there 
niste  in  jieeling  and  coring. 

APPLE    BLACK-CAP.      (1)     Divide 
txxeixi  in  halves,  core  diem,  and 

place  them  on  a  thin  patty-pan  or  mazarine, 
quite  C!OM.  to  ,  ;l-h  other,  with  tile  fiat  side 
downwards ;  squee/e  a  lemon  into  two 
spooMlr.:.-  of  i  ::i  :.•<•  i:  uer  water,  which  pour 
over  them ;  shred  lino  some  lemon-peel,  throw 
it  over  them,  and  grate  fine  s-ugar  all  over. 
Set  them  in  a  quick  oven,  and  bake  them 
half  an  hour.  When  served,  strew  finu  su- 
gar all  over  the  dish. 

APPLE    BLACK-CAP.     (2)      Pare 

the  apples,  lay  them  in  your  pan,  strexv  a  few 
cloves  over  tlu-m,  a  little  lemon-perl  cut  very 
small,  txx-o  or  three  blades  of  cinnamon,  and 
some  ' •  i  he  pan  xx  ith  broxvn 

paper,  set  it  in  an  oven  xvith  the  bread,  and 
let  it  stand  till  die  oven  is  cold. 

APPLES,  TO  BAKE  WHOLE.  Put 
some  sound  and  well  chosen  apples  into  a 
pan,  widi  a  small  proportion  of  cloves,  a 
little  lemon-peel,  some  IJIMVU  sugar,  a 
or  more  of  red  wine,  according  to  the  quan- 
tity of  fruit;  put  them  irt»  a  quick  oxen,  and 
bake  diem  at  least  one  hour.  Tlie  sugar  tu 
be  limited  according  to  the  quality  of  the 
apples. 


APPLES,  CHARLOTTE   OF. 

Charlotte.) 


(See 


AITLE  CHEESECAKES.  Pare.core, 
and  boil  txvrlxe  apples  with  milhcient  water 
to  niiish  them;  Ix'at  them  very  gmoodi,  add 
six  yolks  of  eggs,  die  juice  of  two  lemons, 
and  some  grated  lemon-peel,  half  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter  liouten  to  a  cream,  and  sweet- 
ened with  [xnvder  sii',n.r,  U-al  it  in  widi  die 
apples.  Bake  in  a  pull"  crust  and  serve  open. 

APPLES  CLEAR.     Boil  half  a  pound 


APP 


APP 


of  loaf  sugar  in  a  pint  of  water ;  take  off  the 
scum,  and  put  in  some  large  apples,  pared, 
cored,  and  cut  into  quarters,  with  the  peel 
and  juice  of  a  lemon ;  let  diem  boil  till  clear, 
without  a  cover  upon  the  sauce-pan. 

APPLES  COMPOTE.     (1)     Cut  some 

apples  in  half,  core  them,  prick  the  skins  with 
a  knife  and  throw  them  into  cold  water; 
then  put  them  into  a  pan  with  some  clarified 
sugar,  and  stew  thrm  jjcntly  till  tender ;  place 
the  apples  in  a  dish,  and  pour  the  simp 
through  a  sieve  over  them. 

APPLES  COMPOTE.  (2)  Pare  and 
cut  half  a  dozen  fine  apples  in  half,  and  put 
them  into  a  pan  with  a  little  water  and  lemon- 
juice  ;  then  clarify  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and 
when  you  have  skimmed  it  put  in  your  apples, 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  turn  the  apples 
frequently.  As  soon  as  you  find  the  fork  will 
penetrate  them,  they  are  sufficiently  done,  and 
may  be  taken  out ;  strain  and  reduce  the 
syrup ;  strain  it  again,  and  then  pour  it  over 
your  apples,  which  may  be  served  either  hot 
or  cold.  Garnish  with  the  peel  of  a  very  red 
apple,  cut  into  various  devices,  and  laid  on 
the  apples. 

APPLES,  WHOLE.  The  proceeding  is 
the  same  as  the  last,  except  that  the  apples, 
when  pared,  are  not  divided,  and  the  cores 
are  taken  out  with  a  piercer. 

APPLE    DUMPLINGS.     Pare  and 

scoop  out  the  core  of  six  large  baking  apples, 
put  part  of  a  clove,  and  a  little  grated  lem- 
on-peel, inside  of  each,  and  enclose  them  in 
pieces  of  puff  paste ;  boil  them  in  nets  for 
the  purpose,  or  bits  of  linen,  for  an  hour. 
Before  sen-ing,  crt  off  a  small  bit  from  the 
top  of  each,  and  put  in  a  tea-spoonful  of  su- 
gar, and  a  bit  of  fresh  butter ;  replace  the  bit 
of  paste,  and  strew  over  them  pounded  loaf 
sugar. 

APPLE    DUMPLINGS,    BAKED. 

Make  them  in  the  same  way,  but  instead  of 
tieing  them  in  cloths  lay  them  in  a  buttered 
dish  and  bake  them. 

APPLES,  DRIED  OR  BAKED.  Al- 
ways choose  the  clearest  of  baking  apples, 
prick  them  rather  deep  with  a  pointed  knife 
in  several  places,  and  put  diem  in  a  mode- 
rate oven  upon  a  baking  plate ;  when  half 
done  squeeze  diem  pretty  flat  with  the  hands, 
strtw  them  on  bodi  sides  with  powder  sugar, 
and  put  them  again  into  a  soaking  oven, 
with  some  more  sugar  over  them.  Keep 
them  in  a  dry  place. 

APPLES  FESTOONED.  Peel  some 
golden  pippins,  core  diem  whole,  and  stew 


them  to  three  parts  with  sugar  and  a  litde 
water;  make  die  sirup  pretty  rich  to  clog 
to  the  apples ;  wrap  them  round  with  a  thin 
paste,  cut  with  a  paste-cutter,  and  make  knots 
tir  flowers  with  the  same  paste  to  put  on  die 
top  of  the  apples ;  rasp  some  sugar  over,  and 
bake  a  very  short  time. 

APPLE    FLOATING    ISLAND. 

Bake  or  scald  eight  or  nine  large  apples; 
when  cold  pare  and  pulp  them  through  a  sieve, 
beat  diis  up  with  fine  sugar;  put  to  it  the 
whites  of  four  or  five  eggs  that  have  been 
beaten  widi  a  litde  rose  water ;  mix  it  a  lit- 
tle at  a  time,  and  beat  it  til]  it  is  light;  heap 
it  on  a  rich  custard  or  on  jelly. 

APPLE  FOOL.  Pare,  core,  and  cut 
into  diin  bits,  some  good  stewing  apples; 
stew  diem  till  tender,  with  a  little  water, 
two  cloves,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and  die  peel 
of  half  a  lemon ;  pulp  ha4f  a  pound  dirough  a 
sieve,  and  add  die  same  weight  of  brown  sugar, 
die  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  die  whites  of  two 
eggs;  beat  diem  all  together  for  an  hour. 
Serve  it  upon  rich  cream,  or  a  boiled  custard, 
in  a  glass  dish.  It  may  be  made  in  die  same 
way  as  die  gooseberry  fool,  as  may  also  stew- 
ed rhubarb. 

APPLE  FRAZE.  Cut  apples  into  diick 
slices,  and  fry  diem  of  a  clear  light  brown ; 
take  diem  from  die  pan,  and  lay  diem  to 
drain ;  thev  may  be  pared  or  not ;  then  make 
a  batter.  Take  five  eggs,  leaving  out  two 
whites,  beat  diem  up  with  cream  or  flour, 
and  a  little  white  wine,  make  it  of  the  con- 
sistence of  pancake  batter;  pour  in  a  little 
melted  butter,  mixed  with  nutmeg  and  sugar. 
Let  die  batter  be  hot,  and  drop  in  die  fritters, 
laying  on  every  one  a  slice  of  apple,  and  then 
a  spoonful  of  batter  on  each.  Fry  diem  of 
a  pale  brown,  when  taken  up,  strew  double- 
refined  sugar  all  over  diem. 

APPLE  FRITTERS.     (1)    Beat  the 

yolks  of  eight  eggs,  die  whites  of  four,  well 
togedier,  strain  diem  into  a  pan ;  dien  take 
a  quart  of  cream,  make  it  moderately  hot, 
and  add  two  glasses  of  sack,  three-quarters 
of  a  pint  of  ale,  and  mix  diem  well  together 
When  it  is  cool,  put  to  it  tin-  ruirs,  Ix-ating 
it  well  together,  then  add  nutmeg  and  ginger 
grated,  salt  and  flour  at  pleasure.  The  tet- 
ter should  be  pretty  thick ;  then  put  in  sliced 
apples,  or  scraped  pippins,  and  fry  diem  qiiick 
in  butter. 

APPLE    FRITTERS.       (2)      Pare, 

core,  and  cut  your  apples  into  quarters,  soak 
tlwin  tor  two  or  three  hours  in  brandy,  su^ar, 
green  lemon-peel,  and  orange  flower  water; 
when  they  have  diorousfhly  imbibed  die  fla- 
vor of  diese  ingredients,  drain,  and  put  diem 


APP 


APP 


into  a  cloth  well  sprinkled  with  floiir,  and 
shake  them  so  that  tin:  lloiir  may  adhere  all 
over  them;  trv  them  of  ;i  good  color,  glaze 
with  sugar  ami  a  hut  salamander. 

AI'l'LE  FRITTERS.  (3)  Stew 
some  apples  cut  small,  together  with  a  little 
water,  MI_;:II,  lciiion-|X'cl,  and  cinnamon; 
when  soft,  add  a  little  uhite  wine,  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  and  a  bit  of  fresh  butter;  when 
cold,  mix  them  with  a  batter,  as  for  Tun- 
bridge  pulls,  or  enclose  them  in  rounds  of  puff 
:  iv,  and  serve  them  with  silted  loaf 
sugar  over  them. 

APPLE  I-'UITTKUS.  (4)  IWwell- 
beaten  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  two  table 
spoonfuls  of  yeast,  tliree  of  white  wine,  and 
two  of  m.-e  water  ;  half  a  tea  sp.xiiiful  of  uni- 
ted nutmeg,  and  of  salt ;  make  it  into  a  thick 
butter  with  lloitr,  |>cel  and  core  two  or  three 
apple-,  i-nt  them  into  thin  bits,  and  mix  tliem 
with  the  ballet-;  co\t-r  it  over,  let  it  stand, 
placed  near  the  lire,  about  an  hour;  drop  it 
into  boiling  lard,  and  serve  theai  in  a  napkin 
with.-ug.ir  .-tie  wed  over  them.  GoontMMM 
previously  stewed  may  be  done  in  the  same 
way. 

APPLES,  GLAZED.  Peel  a  dozen  of 
apples  and  leave  the  tails ;  wore  at  the  oppo- 
site side  not  quite  through,  and  boil  them 
with  half  a  pint  of  red  wine,  some  sugar, 
and  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  simmer  slowly  that 
they  may  not  break  ;  when  nearly  done,  take 
th.  in  mil ,  i  educe  the  simp  to  a  caramel,  and 
put  in  the  apples,  rubbing  them  all  over  with 
it;  or  yon  may  wrap  tliem  in  a  paste,  rasp 
MI_!.H  over,  bake  a  short  time,  and  glaze  with 
a  white  glaze. 

AI'l'LE   MARMALADE.     (1)     Boil 

some  pippins  till  i  hey  begin  to  get  tender,  then 
put  them  into  cold  water;  pare  and  core 
them;  squeeze  the  pulp  through  a  sieve  and 
put  it  over  the  fire,  letting  it  remain  till  it  lie- 
comes  very  thick ;  then  weigh  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  fine  sugar;  I  K.I  I  it  till  the  sugar  arises  in 
sparkles  which  clnsiei  -togetlu-r  ;  put  the  mar- 
malade to  it,  and  .-lir  theai  well  with  a  wood- 
en spoon  till  tlte  apple  begins  to  boil;  then 
take  it  oil' and  when  a  little  eon!,  put  it  into 
pots,  but  do  not  cover  them  till  quite  cold. 

•\ITI.r.  MARMALADE.  (2)  Par.-, 
core,  and  rut  your  apples  into  small  pieces, 
put  them  into  water  with  a  little  lemon-juice 
to  keep  them  white.  Take  them  out  after  a 
short  time  and  drain  them.  Weigh,  and  put 
them  into  a. -lew-pan;  if  for  present  use,  half 
a  |xmm!  of  Mi^ar  will  !»•  sufficient  for  each 
pound  of  apples,  but  if  tor  keeping,  double 
that  quantity  will  be  necessary  .  Add  to  it  a 
•tick  of  cinnamon  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
1* 


Put  the  stew-pan  over  a  brisk  fire  and  cover 
it;  when  the  apples  are  |Hilped  stir  the  mix- 
ture till  of  the  proper  consistence:  then  put 
the  marmalade  into  pots. 

APPLES  IN  PANCAKES.  Cut  some 
apples  verv  small,  stew  tliem  with  a  little 
white  wine,  grated  lemon-peel,  pounded  cin- 
namon, and  brown  sugar;  mash  them,  and 
spread  it  over  pancakes;  roll  them  up,  and 
serve  with  sifted  loaf  sugar  over  them. 

APPLE     POUPETON.      Pare    some 

good  baking  apples,  take  out  the  cores,  and 
put  them  into  a  skillet;  to  a  pound  and  a 
luilf  of  apples,  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  su- 
gar, and  a  wine  glass  of  water.  Do  them 
<  i  :i  -i  .w  lire,  add  a  little  cinnamon,  and 
keep  them  stirring.  When  of  the  consist- 
ence of  a  marmalade,  let  it  stand  till  cool; 
beat  up  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  stir  in  four 
table  spoonfuls  of  giated  bread,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  then  form  it  into 
shape,  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven,  turn  it  upside 
doxv  n  on  a  pkite,  and  serve. 

APPLE  PRESERVE.  (See  Pre- 
»erves.) 

APPLES  AND  RAISINS.  Pareand  cut 
twelve  apples  into  quarters,  and  each  quarter 
into  four  pieces,  put  them  into  a  pan  with  four 
ounces  of  good  fresh  butter,  two  of  sugar,  over 
which  the  zeste  of  an  orange  lias  been  grated, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  currants  well 
washed;  toss  up  these  ingredients  over  a  mod- 
erate fire  for  a  few  minutes  and  then  let  tliem 
cool.  Make  a  round  undcr-crust  seven  inch- 
es in  diameter,  moisten  the  edge  and  put  on 
it  a  band  of  pi  ill'  paste  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  high  and  half  an  inch  thick ;  put  your 
apples,  ,vc,  in  this  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of 
dome,  cover  tliem  with  the  puff  paste,  taking 
care  that  it  dens  not  extend  Ixiyond  tlie  band, 
upon  which  il  ni'ist  be  pressed  down ;  waah 
it  over  with  while  of  egg,  and  bake  it 
in  a  gentle  oven  for  about  an  jour.  When 
a  little  cooled,  take  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
whipped  to  a  strong  froth  and  mixed  with 
two  ounces  of  powder  sugar,  and  mask  with 
it  your  cake,  sprinkling  it  with  sifted  su- 
gar; then,  having  drained  and  dried  some 
currants,  mix  them  with  sugar,  and  strew 
them  ever  the  dome;  form  a  crown  of  small 
meringues  with  the  remai'ider  of  tlie  white 
of  egg,  and  place  it  on  the  band ;  cover  them 
with  silied  -uirar,  and  color  the  whole  of  a 
u  in  the  oven,  and  then  serve  im- 
mediately. 

AITI.ils  IN  RICE.  (1>  Scoop  om 
the  cores,  and  pare,  very  neatly,  half  a  doz- 
en good-aized  apples ;  Ix  il  them  in  thin,  clari- 
fied sugar ;  let  them  imbibe  die  sugar,  and 


APR 


APR 


be  careful  to  preserve  their  fbnn.  Make  a 
marmalade  with  some  other  apples,  adding 
to  it  apricot  marmalade,  and  four  ounces  of 
rice  previously  boiled  in  milk,  with  sugar  and 
butter,  and  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs ; 
put  them  into  a  dish  for  table,  surround  it 
with  a  border  of  rice,  and  place  the  whole  ap- 
ples in  the  rice,  and  marmalade  and  hake  it. 
When  done,  put  into  each  of  the  apples  a  tea 
spoonful  of  any  kind  of  sweetmeat  you  may 
think  proper. 

APPLES  IN  RICE.  (2)  Pare,  core, 
and  cut  four  or  five  good  apples  in  quarters ; 
boil  some  rice  in  a  cloth,  and  when  soft  put 
in  the  apples,  tie  it  up  very  loose,  and  boil 
gently  till  sufficiently  done. 

APPLE  SOUFFLET.     Prepare  apples 
as  for  baking  in  a  pudding,  put  them  into  a 
deep  dish,  and  lay  upon  tin-  top,  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  thick,  rice  boiled  in  new 
milk  with  sugar;    beat  to  a  stiff  froth  the 
,     whites  of  two  or  three  eggs,  with  a  little  sift- 
VL.d  loaf  sugar,  lay  it  upon  the  rice,  and  bake 
it  in  an  oven  a  light  brown.     Serve  it  instant- 
ly when  done. 

APPLE  A  LA  TURQUE.  Neatly  pare 
and  pierce  out  the  cores  of  eight  or  ten  ap- 
ples, put  them  on  the  fire  with  a  thin  simp 
of  clarified  sugar,  cover  them  close  and  let 
them  simmer  gently;  turn  them,  that  both 
sides  may  be  done.  When  thoroughly  done 
lay  them  on  a  dish,  with  a  wet  pa|>er  over 
them.  Put  a  paste  round  the  dish  you  serve 
them  in,  and  bake  in  a  gentle  oven  to  harden 
it,  then  put  in  a  layer  of  apple  sauce,  over 
which  put  the  apples,  and  fill  the  holes  where 
the  cores  were  with  dried  cherries  or  ap- 
ricot jam,  then  cover  it  with  the  apple  sauce; 
beat  up  the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a  froth, 
and  add  powder  sugar  till  they  appear  quite 
smooth ;  make  the  apples  warm,  and  lay  die 
white  of  egg  over  them,  smooth  it  neatly  over, 
and  sift  some  powder  sugar  over  it ;  color  it 
in  a  gentle  oven. 

APPLE  WATER.  Cut  three  or  four 
large  apples  into  slices,  put  them  into  a  jug, 
and  pom'  a  quart  of  boiling  water  over  them ; 
cover  the  jug.  When  quite  cold,  strain  and 
sweeten  it,  and  add  a  little  lemon-juice. 

APRICOTS  IN  BRANDY.  Weigh 
equal  quantities  of  loaf  sugar  and  of  apricots ; 
scald  them,  and  take  off  the  skins.  Clarify 
and  boil  the  sugar,  put  the  huh  into  it,  arid 
let  it  remain  for  two  or  three  days;  put  the 
apricots  into  glasses.  Mix  with  the  sirup 
the  best  pale  brandy,  half  and  half,  and  pour 
it  over  the  apricots  and  keep  them  closely 
covered.  Peaches' 'and  nectarines  may  Iv 
done  iu  the  same  wa\ . 


APRICOTS,    CHARLOTTE    OF. 

Choose  twenty-four  fine,  plump,  but  not  too 
ripe,  apricots,  pare  and  divide  them  into 
eight  parts,  toss  them  up  in  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fine  sugar,  and  two  ounces  of  warm 
butter;  in  the  meantime  line  a  mould  as  di- 
rected (see  Charlotte) ;  pour  in  the  apri- 
cots, and  finish  as  usual.  When  turned  on 
your  dish,  cover  it  lightly  with  apricot  mar- 
malade, and  serve  it  immediately. 

APRICOTS  TO  DRY.  Pare  die  apri- 
cots, and  carefully  take  out  the  st<  >nes ;  blanch 
the  kernels,  and  put  them  into  the  apricots; 
strew  over  a  pound  of  fruit  the  same  quantity 
of  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  let  them 
stand  till  the  sugar  has  extracted  the  juice, 
then  boil  all  together  gently;  when  the  fruit 
is  tender,  take  it  out  with  care,  and  boil  the 
sirup  till  very  rich ;  pour  it  over  tlie  fruit, 
and  in  three  days  put  it  upon  dishes,  and  dry 
them  in  the  sun  under  garden  glasses,  turning 
them  once  or  twice  a-day,  to  keep  the  shape 
as  round  as  possible.  Any  inferior  apricots 
may  be  cut  down  and  boiled  in  the  sirup,  for 
tarts. 

APRICOT  MARMALADE.  Take 
some  fine  apricots,  and  choose  from  amongst 
diem  those  which  are  of  the  deepest  yellow 
and  the  ripest,  (they  must  not  Ix:  too  ripe.) 
Peel  them,  take  out  the  stones,  and  chop  them 
up;  weigh  twelve  pounds  of  them  and  put 
them  into  a  preserving-pan,  with  nine  pounds 
of  powder  sugar ;  place  your  pan  over  a  quick 
fire,  and  keep  your  preparation  constantly 
stirring  with  a  long  wooden  spoon.  To  find 
out  when  tlie  marmalade  is  sufficiently  done, 
let  a  few  drops  fall  into  a  glass  of  cold  water, 
and  if  they  do  not  spread  in  tlie  water  your 
marmalade  is  ready  to  put  into  pots.  An- 
other method  of  ascertaining  when  your  mar- 
malade is  done  is  by  taking  some  on  die  end  of 
your  finger  and  thumb,  and  just  rub  them  to- 
gether, and  if  on  separating  them  you  find  the 
marmalade  forms  a  thread,  it  is  sufficiently 
done. 

APRICOTS   A   LA    PORTUGAISE. 

Take  a  dozen  of  ripe  apricots,  cut  them  in 
half,  and  take  out  tlie  stones ;  place  them  on 
a  silver  plate,  and  pour  over  some,  clarified 
sugar,  with  a  little  water;  put  them  on  a 
stove  without  covering  them;  when  suffi- 
ciently done,  take  them  from  the  fire,  and 
strew  sus-ar  over;  then  put  on  the  lid  of  the 
baking-pan  under  the  (ire,  to  make  them  of  a 
good  color. 

APRICOTS,  WHOLE.  Choose  tlie  fin- 
est yellow,  but  not  too  ripe,  apricots;  take 
off  the  stalks,  prick  them  on  each  side  \vitl> 
a  pin,  make  an  incision  with  the  point  of 
a  knife,  tlmnigh  which  extract  die  stone. 


ART 


ASP 


Then  put  them  on  tin;  fire  with  as  much  wa- 
ter as  will  cover  them,  until  near  boiling, 
when,  if  soft,  the  apricots  should  1«  thrown 
into  cold  water ;  take  care  tliev  are  all  equal- 
ly tender.  Drain  them  on  a  hurdle,  and  in 
the  meantime  clarify  and  boil  some  sugar 
to  the  degree  you  require;  put  in  a  little 
water,  and  when  it  boils  remove  it  from  tin; 
fire,  and  add  to  it  the  fruit,  and  having  given 
them  a  few  boilings  together,  let  them  cool, 
then  drain  and  place  them  in  your  compotiers. 

ARTICHOKES     AND     ALMONDS. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  blanch- 
ed and  beat  fine,  will)  two  tea  spoonfuls 
of  orange-flower  or  rose  water;  then  take 
a  quart  of  cream,  and  boil  it  with  a  small 
quantity  of  cinnamon  and  mace;  sweeten  it 
with  fine  sugar,  and  mix  it  with  the  almonds ; 
stir  them  together,  and  strain  it  through  a 
sieve.  Let  the  cream  cool,  and  thicken  il 
with  the  yolks  of  six  eggs;  then  !^iniish  a 
deep  dish,  and  lay  paste  at  die  bottom ;  then 
put  in  shred  artichoke  bottoms,  IM-IIII;  tilst 
boiled  ;  uini  ii|x>n  these  a  little  melted  butter. 
shred  citron,  and  candied  orange;  repeating 
the  same  until  the  dish  is  nearly  full,  then 
pour  in  the  cream,  and  bake  it  without  a  lid. 
When  it  is  baked,  grate  sugar  over  it,  and 
serve  it  hot.  Half  an  hour  will  serve  to 
bake  it. 

ARTICHOKES  BOILED.  Soak  them 
in  cold  water,  wash  them  well,  then  put  them 
into  plenty  of  boiling  water,  with  a  handful 
of  salt,  and  let  them  Ixiil  gently  till  they  are 
tender,  which  will  take  an  hour  and  a  half, 
or  two  hours:  the  surest  way  to  know  when 
they  are  done  enough,  is  to  draw  out  a  leaf; 
trim  them  and  drain  them  on  a  sieve;  and 
send  up  melted  butter  with  them,  which  some 
put  into  small  cups,  so  that  each  guest  may 
have  one. 

ARTICHOKES  TO  BOIL.     Cut  off  the 

euilks  cI'Mse  to  the  bottom,  wash  them  well, 
and  let  tliem  lie  for  some  hours  in  cold  wa- 
ter; put  them  on  in  l»iling  water  with  a 
little  salt  in  it,  cover  the  pan  closely,  and 
boil  them  an  hour  and  a  half.  If  they  are 
old,  and  have  not  been  fresh  gathered,  they 
will  take  a  longer  time  to  boil.  Melted  but- 
••ed  with  them  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS,   TO  DRY 

AND  I'ICKI.K.  Half  boil  the  artichokes, 
strip  off  the  leaves,  and  pull  out  the  i-lmke; 
put  the  bottoms  into  small  jars,  and  cover 
them  with  a  cold  boiled  brine  of  salt  and 
water ;  put  melted  mutton  suet  on  the  top  to 
exclude  the  air,  and  tie  bladder  over  them. 
To  dry  tliem,  they  are  U.iled  as  for  eating, 
the  leaves  and  choke  pulled  out ,  and  the  bot- 
toms dried  upon  dishes  in  an  oven,  and  then 


kept  in  paper  bags.  When  to  be  dressed, 
tliey  must  be  laid  into  warm  water,  and  soak- 
ed for  two  or  three  hours ;  they  may  then  be 
plain  boiled,  and  eaten  with  melted  butter, 
or  stewed  in  gravy  with  a  little  mushroom 
catsup,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  thickened  with 
a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  They  are  a 
great  improvement  to  all  made  dishes  and 
meat  pies. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS,  PICKLED. 

Boil  the  artichokes  till  the  leaves  can  be  pull- 
ed off  without  breaking  the  bottoms;  leave 
on  the  part  called  the  choke,  set  them  aside 
till  cold,  then  put  tliem  into  wide-mouthed 
bottles.  Boil,  in  vinegar,  some  salt,  pepper, 
mace,  and  sliced  nutmeg,  and,  when  cold, 
pour  it  over  the  artichokes ;  tie  bladder  over 
the  bottles. 

ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM.     (1) 

Are  boiled  and  dressed  in  the  various  ways  di- 
rected for  potatoes.  N.  B — They  should  be 
covered  with  thick  melted  butter,  or  nice 
white  or  brown  sauce. 

ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM.  (2) 
They  must  be  neatly  peeled,  and  boiled  very 
gently  by  the  side  of  the  stove,  with  a  little 
salt  in  the  water ;  when  done  (but  not  too 
much,  or  they  will  not  look  well)  place  them 
on  the  dish,  and  serve  with  plain  butter,  or 
any  other  sauce  you  please. 

ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM,  TO 
FRICASSEE.  Wash  and  scrape  or  pare 
them ;  boil  tliem  in  milk  and  water  till  they 
are  soft,  which  will  be  from  a  quarter  to  half 
an  hour.  Take  them  out  and  stew  them  a 
f(*w  minutes  in  the  following  sauce: — Roll  a 
bit  of  butter,  the  size  of  a  walnut,  in  flour, 
mix  it  with  half  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk ; 
season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nut- 
meg. They  may  be  served  plain  boiled, 
with  a  little  melted  Initter  poured  over 
them.  Scorzonera  is  fricasseed  in  the  same 
manner. 

ARROW -ROOT.  Mix  with  two  or 
three  tablc-epoonfuls  of  arrow-root  half  a 
pint  of  cold  water ;  let  it  stand  for  nearly  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  pour  off"  the  water,  and 
stir  in  some  pounded  sugar;  boil  a  pint  of 
milk,  and  pour  it  gradually  upon  the  arrow- 
root, stirring  it  one  way  all  the  time.  Or 
it  may  be  made  with  water  in  which  lemon- 
peel  has  been  boiled,  and  then  a  glass  of  Port 
or  white  wine  and  a  little  nutmeg  stirred 
into  it. 

ASPARAGUS.  Set  a  stew-pan  with 
plenty  of  water  in  it  on  the  fire;  sprinkle  a 
handful  of  salt  in  it ;  let  it  boil,  and  skim  it; 
then  put  in  your  asparagus,  prepared  thus: 


ASP 


8 


BAC 


'scrape  all  the  stalks  till  they  are  perfectly 
clean ;  throw  tlicm  into  a  pan  of  cold  water  as 
you  scrape  them;  when  they  are  all  done, tie 
them  up  in  little  bundles,  of  about  a  quarter 
of  a  hundred  each,  with  bass,  if  you  can  get 
it,  or  tape  (string  cuts  them  to  pieces ; )  cut 
off  the  stalks  at  the  bottom  that  they  may  be 
all  of  a  length,  leaving  only  just  enough  to 
serve  as  a  handle  fur  the  green  part ;  when 
they  are  tender  at  the  stalk,  which  will  be 
in  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  they  are 
done  enough.  Great  care  must  be  taken  to 
watch  the  exact  time,  of  their  becoming  ten- 
der ;  take  them  up  just,  at  that  instant,  and 
they  will  have  their  live  flavor  and  color: 
a  minute  or  two  mure  boiling  destroys  both. 
While  the  asparagus  is  boiling,  toast  a  round 
of  a  quartern  loaf,  about  half  an  inch  thick; 
brown  it  delicately  on  both  sides;  dip  it 
lightly  in  the  liquor  the  asparagus  was  boiled 
in,  and  lay  it  in  the  middle  of  a  dish:  melt 
some  butter,  then  lay  in  the  asparagus  upon 
the  toast,  which  must  project  beyond  the  as- 
pari^'V.  that  the  company  may  see  there  is 
a  teas*. 

ASPARAGUS,  BOILED.  Scrape  and 
lie  them  in  small  bundles;  cut  them  even, 
boil  them  quick  in  salt  and  water;  lay  ti:em 
on  a  toast  dipped  in  the  water  the  asparagus 
was  boiled  in ;  pour  over  them  melted  butter. 

ASPARAGUS  AND  EGGS.  Toast  a 
slice  of  bread,  butter  it,  and  lay  it  on  a  dish; 
butter  some  eggs  thus :  take  four  eggs,  beat 
them  well,  put  them  into  a  sauce  pan  with 
two  ounces  of  butter,  and  a  little  salt,  until 
of  a  sufficient  consistence,  and  lay  them  on 
the  toast;  meanwhile  boil  some  asparagus 
tender,  cut  the  ends  small,  and  lay  them  on 
the  eggs. 

ASPARAGUS,  FRENCH.  Boil  it,  and 
chop  small  the  heads  and  tender  part  of  the 
stalks,  together  with  a  boiled  onion;  add  a 
little  salt  and  pepper,  and  the  beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg ;  beat  it  up.  Serve  it  on  sippets  of 
toasted  bread,  and  pour  over  it  a  little  melt- 
ed butter. 

ASPARAGUS  SOUP.     (See  Soupt.) 

ASPICK.  Take  a  knuckle  of  veal,  a 
knuckle  of  ham,  a  thick  slice  of  beef,  and  if 
they  will  not  make  your  jelly  stilf  enough, 
add  two  calf's  feet,  or  some  swards  of  bacon 
rasped ;  put  them  into  a  sauce-pan  with  a  pint 
of  rich  stock,  and  sweat  it  over  a  stove  till 
reduced  to  a  glaze,  then  moisten  it  with  stock, 
boil  and  skim  it  well.  Put  to  it  two  onions, 
two  carrots,  salt,  parsley ,  seal!  inns,  tour  cloves, 
two  bay  leaves,  and  a  clove  of  garlick ;  let 
the  whole  stew  fur  seven  hours,  then  strain  off 
the  liquor  or  consomme.  Bre;dt  (bur  eggs 


into  a  stewpan,  and  put  to  them  llie  consomme 
when  cold,  the  juiee  of  two  lemons,  and  two 
spoonfuls  of  tarragon,  and  beat  it  with  a 
whisk  over  the  lire  till  near  boiling,  and  when 
it  does  so,  remove  \rnir  stew-pan  to  a  smaller 
fire,  and  place  fire  on  the  lid  fur  half  an  hour; 
then  pass  it  through  a  wet  napkin  doubled. 
If  the  jelly  is  not  sufficiently  clear,  clarify  it 
a  second  tiiiip.  1'uta  layer  of  this  jelly,  about 
half  an  inch  thick,  at  the  bottom  of  an  aspick 
mould,  garnish  it  with  truffles,  whites  of  eggs, 
sprigs  of  parsley,  &c.  according  to  your  taste, 
|K)ur  in  another  half  inch  of  the  jelly,  while 
liquid,  with  great  care,  so  as  not  to  discom- 
pose jour  garnish,  then  put  either  calf's 
brains,  breasts  of  fowl,  veal  sweetbreads, 
cocks'  coiulis.  kidneys,  fat  livers,  or  game. 
Be  sure  to  lay  \\hale\er  \ou  may  use,  as  equal 
and  smooth  as  possible,  then  fill  up  your  mould 
with  jelly,  and  let  it  stand  till  t-et.  When 
wanted,  dip  the  mould  in  hot  water  an  in- 
stant, place  your  dish  on  the  top  and  turn  it 
over. 

ATTELETS,  OYSTER.      (See  Oyt- 


ATTELETS  are  silver  skewens. 

AUNT    MARY'S  PUDDING.     (Se» 

Puddings.) 


B. 

BACCHIC  CREAM.  (See  Cream.) 
BACCHIC  SAUCE.  (See  Sauce.) 

BACON .  Cover  a  pound  of  nice  streaked 
bacon  or  salt  pork  witli  cold  water,  let  it  boil 
gently  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  take  it 
up,  scrape  the  under  side  \\cll,  and  cut  off 
the  rind:  grate  a  crust  (if  bread  not  only  on 
the  top,  but  all  over  it,  and  put  it  before  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes:  it  must  not  be  there 
too  long,  or  it  will  dry  it  and  spoil  it.  Two 
pounds  will  require  about  an  hour  and  a  half, 
according  to  its  thickness;  the  heck  or  gam- 
mon being  very  thick,  will  take  more.  The 
boiling  of  bacon  is  a  very  simple  subject  to 
comment  u|x>n;  but  our  main  object  is  to 
teach  common  cooks  the  art  of  dressing  com- 
mon food  in  the  best  manner.  Bacon  is 
sometimes  as  salt  as  salt  can  make  it,  there- 
fore Wore  it  is  boiled  it  must  be  soaked  in 
warm  water  for  an  hour  or  two,  changing 
the  water  mice;  then  pare  oil'  the  rusty  and 
smoked  part,  trim  it  nicely  on  the  under  side, 
and  scr:i|x!  the  rind  as  clean  as  possible. 
Mem. — Bacon  is  an  extravagant  article  in 
housekeeping;  there  is  often  twice  as  much 
dressed  as  need  be:  when  it  is  sent  to  ta- 
ble as  an  accompaniment  to  boiled  poultry 


B  AC 


BAR 


or  veal,  a  pound  and  a  half  is  plenfy  for  a  doz- 
en  people.     A  good  (iernian  sausatre    is  a 

very  economical  BubotiM*  far  bacmi;  or  fried 
pork  sa'-- 

Note. — Bacon    in    England   arid  salt 
pork   in    America   are   the  same    thing. 
What  we  name  bacon,  the  English  call  ! 
ham. 

HA<  < )\  TO  BROIL.  Make  up  a  sheet 
of  pa|>cr  into  the  form  of  a  dripping-pan  ;  cut 
vour  bacon  into  thin  slic<s,  cut  oil'  the  rind, 
lay  the  IKICOII  on  the  paper,  put  it  upon  the 
gridiron,  set  over  a  slow  fire,  and  it  will 
Broil  cleanly. 

BACON  AM)  KCfiS.      Tut  a  quarter  of 

a  pound  of  streaked  bacon  into  thin  slices, 

and  put  tin-in  i;ito  ;i  stew  |«in  oxer  a  -low  lire, 

Cakin,'  can-  to  turn  them  frequently;    when 

snfhVicntly  d.ine,  pour  the  melted  III!   of  the 

to  a  dub,  (breakover  it  Kven  or  eight 

ln!<  of   gravy,  a  little 

[x-p|KT,  and  stew  the  whole  oxer  a 

slow  tire:   J;:L-S   a  salamander  over   it,  and 

serve. 

BACON.  <J  AM  MON.TO  BAKE.  Lay 
it  to  steep  all  night  in  water,  scrape  it  clean, 
and  stuff  it  with  all  manner  of  sweet  herbe, 
as  thyme,  sa<je,  sax  op, ,  .-wi-et  marjoram,  pen- 
ny-royal, strawlx-rry  leaves,  violet  leaves,  and 
fennel ;  chop  these  small,  and  mix  them  with 
the  yolks  of  hard  i-'^'^f,  pepper  and  nutmeg 
beaten,  and  boil  it  until  tender.  When  it  is 
cold  pare  off  thv  under  side,  pull  ofi  the  .-kin, 
with  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  pt.l  it 
in  a  pie  or  pasty,  with  whole  cloves  and  slices 
of  raw  Uiciiu  laid  o\er  it,  and  butter;  close  it, 
and  liaKe  it. 

HA  CON  OK  lt\M  SLICES.     Ham, or 

brv-on.  may  Ix-  fried,  or  broiled  on  a  gridiron 

-  ir  lire,  or  toa-ted  u  itli  a  fork:  take 

lire  it  of  the  same  thickness  in  every 

part.      If  xoii   wish  it  curled,  cut  it  in  slices 

about  two  incho  long   (if  longer,  the.  ontside 

will  l«-  done  r.Mi   much  lx-|ore   the   inside   is 

:>i)  ;    roll  it  up,   and  put  a  little 

ike  wer  through  it:  put  it  maehene- 

l>nt"h  oxen.  foreign  or  ten  ininufes, 

turning  r  -p.      I'his  iscon-idered 

i\iiy  of  dressi'ii,'  liacon;  but 

we  like  it  lx---t  uncurled,  because  it  isrri-]>er. 

and   more  equally  done.     Slices  of  ham  or 

kiro;i  should  not  I*'  HKire  th.m  half  a  quarter 

of  an   inch  thick,  and  will  eat  much  more 

mellow  if  snaked  in  hot  \\ater  for  a  cpiartcr 

of  an  hour,  and  then  dried  in  a  cloth  before 

they  arc  broiled,  &c. 

_ BACON      KKI.ISHINC     KASHKKS. 
If  you  have  any  cold  bacon,  you  may  make 


a  very  nice  dish  of  it  by  cutting  it  into  slices 
alxuit  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick ;  grate  some 
crust  of  bread,  as  directed  for  ham  and  pow- 
der tliem  well  with  it  on  Ixith  sides;  lay  the- 
ra.-hers  in  a  cheese-toaster,  they  will  be 
browned  on  one  side  in  alxuit  three,  minutes, 
turn  them  and  do  the  other.  These  are  a 
delicious  accompaniment  to  poached  or  fried 
the  liacon  having  Ijcen  boiled  first,  is 
tender  and  mellow.  They  are  an  excellent 
garnish  round  veal  cutlets,  or  sweetbreads, 
or  calf's  head  hash,  or  green  peas  or  beans, 
&c. 

BAIN  MARIE.  A  flat  vessel,  contain- 
ing Ixiiling  water,  meant  to  hold  other  sauce- 
pans, either  lor  purposes  of  cookery  or  to  keep 
dishes  hot.  The  advantages  of  preserving 
the  heat  of  dishes  by  the  bain  marie  is  this, 
that  no  change  is  effected  in  the  flavor  of 
the  ingredients. 

BALM  BEER.  (See  Beer.) 
BANBURY  CAKES.  (See  Cakes.) 
BARLEY  CREAM.  (See  Cream.) 

BARLEY  WATER.  Take  a  couple  of 
ounces  of  pearl  barley,  wash  it  clean  with 
cold  water,  put  it  into  half  a  pint  of  boiling 
water,  and  Jet  it  boil  for  five  minutes;  pour 
off  this  water,  and  add  to  it  two  quarts  of 
boiling  water:  boil  it  to  two  pints,  and  strain 
it.  The  almve  is  simple  barley  water.  To 
a  quart  of  this  is  frequently  added  two  ounces 
.sliced;  the  same  of  raisins,  stoned ; 
half  an  ounce  of  liquorice,  sliced  and  bruised; 
and  a  pint  of  water.  Boil  it  till  it  is  re- 
duced to  a  quart,  and  strain.  Obs. — These 
drinks  are  intended  to  assuage  thirst  in  ardent 
I- \er.-and  inllamiiiatorx  disorders,  for  which 
plenty  of  mild  diluting  liquor  is  one  of  the 
principal  remedies:  and  if  not  suggested  by 
the  medical  attendant,  is  frequently  demanded 
by  honest  instinct,  in  terms  too  plain  to  be 
misunderstood :  the  stomach  sym|>athizes  with 
libre  of  the  human  frame,  and  no  part  of 
it  can  be  distressed  without  in  some  degree 
offending  tlie  stomach:  therefore  it  is  of  the 
utmost  ini|xirtaiicc  to  sooth  this  ijrand  organ, 
by  rendering  everything  we  offer  to  it  as 
eii  L'ant  and  a^rei  able  as  tin,  nature  of  the 
case  will  admit  of:  I!K-  bai  ley  drink  prepared 
according  to  the  second  receipt,  will  \>e  re- 
ceived with  pleasure  by  the  most  delicate 


BARLEY  BROTH.     (See  Broth.) 

r.AKI.KV  CRUEL.  Take  three  ounces 
of  pearl  barley,  of  which  make  a  quart  of 
barley  water;  if  it  U-  not  white,  shift  it  once 
or  tu  ii  • ;  put  in  two  ounces  of  currants  clean 


BEA 


10 


BEE 


picked  and  washed,  and  wlien  they  are  plump- 
ed, pour  out  the  gruel  and  let  it  cool  a  little ; 
then  put  iu  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  well  beat- 
en, half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  of  new 
thick  cream  half  a  pint,  ami  l«:mon-|>eel; 
then  sweeten  with  fine  sugar  to  your  taste ; 
stir  it  gently  over  the  fire,  until  it  is  thick  as 
cream. 

BARLEY  PUDDING.  (See  Pud- 
ding.) 

BARBERRY  JELLY.     (See  Jelly.) 

BARBERRY  CONSERVE.  Put  a  pound 
of  ripe  burberries  and  half  an  ounce  of  pow- 
dered fennel  seed  into  a  silver  vessel,  with  a 
glass  <  if  water ;  boil  them  three  or  four  times-, 
and  ptvss  the  juice  through  a  sieve.  Replace 
tli<'  M'.-s-vl  on  the  (ire  with  the  juice,  and  add 
to  it  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  boiled  au 
casse.  Boil  together  a  few  times,  and  then 
pour  the  conserve  into  cases. 
X 

BARBERRY  SIRUP.     (See  Sirup.) 

BARBERRIES  TO  PICKLE.  Boil  the 
bruised  berries  of  a  few  bunches  in  salt- 
and-water;  strain,  and  put  a  gill  of  the 
liquor  to  a  quart  of  vinegar,  with  an  ounce 
of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar, 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pounded  ginger,  and 
a  little  sliced  horse-radish;  boil  and  strain 
it,  then  pour  it  hot  over  the  barberries,  die 
fiue.-t  b'.mches  having  been  previously  select- 
ed and  placed  in  jars ;  when  cold,  cover  them 
closely  with  bladder.  They  may  also  be 
kept  in  a  jar,  with  a  strong  brine  of  salt-and- 
water  poured  over  them.  When  any  s"iim 
is  observed  upon  the  surface,  the  brine  must 
be  pon.ed  off,  and  some  fresh  added.  They 
are  kept  closely  covered. 

BARBERRY  SIRUP.  (See  Sirup.) 
BASIL  VINEGAR.  (See  Vinegar.) 
BATH  BUNS.  (See  Buns.) 

BATTER  FOR  FISH,  MEAT,  FRIT- 
TERS, &c.  Prepare  it  with  tine  flour,  salt, 
a  little  oil,  beer,  vinegar,  or  white  wine  and 
the  whites  of  eggs  teat  up;  wlien  of  a  proper 
thickness  it  will  drop  out  of  the  spoon  about 
the  size  of  a  nutmeg  at  once.  Fry  in  oil  or 
hog's  lard. 

BATTER  PUDDING'.  (See  Pud- 
ding.) 

BEANS.  Cut,  wash,  and  boil  tin-  beans, 
and  then  throw  them  into  a  cullender.  Put  a 
piece  of  butter  into'your  table-dish,  lay  the 
beans  on  it,  and  garnish  them  with  chopped 


parsley  laid  round  like  a  cord ;  heat  the  dish 
and  serve. 

BECHAMELLE.  Reduce  some  sauce 
tournee  over  a  good  fire,  moisten  with  chick- 
en broth  or  consomme,  constantly  stirring  to 
prevent  its  catching ;  when  of  the  proper  con- 
sistence, add  two  glasses  of  boiling  cream, 
continue  stirring ;  pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve 
and  serve. 

BECHAMEL,  OR  WHITE  SAUCE. 
Cut  in  square  pieces,  half  an  inch  thick,  two 
|X)inids  of  lean  veal,  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham ; 
melt  in  a  steupan  two  ounces  of  butter; 
when  melted,  let  the  wht  le  simmer  unlil  it 
is  ready  to  catch  at  the  bottom  (it  requires 
great  attention,  as,  if  it  happen  to  catch  at 
tlie  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  it  will  s|xjil  the 
look  of  your  sauce) ;  then  add  to  it  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour;  when  well  mixed, 
add  to  it  tliree  pints  of  broth  or  water  (pour 
a  little  at  a  time,  that  the  thickening  be 
smooth)  ;  stir  it  until  it  boil ;  put  the  stew- 
pan  on  the  corner  of  the  stove  to  boil  gently 
for  two  hours ;  season  it  with  four  cloves, 
one  onion,  twelve  pepper-corns-,  a  blade  of 
mace,  a  few  mushrooms  and  a  fagot  made 
of  parsley,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  a  bay  leaf. 
Let  the  sauce  reduce  to  a  quart",  skim  the  fat 
olF,  and  strain  it  through  a  tamis  cloth.  To 
make  a  bechamel  sauce,  add  to  a  quart  of 
tl»c  above  a  pint  of  good  cream ;  stir  it  until 
it  is  reduced  to  a  good  thickness;  a  few 
mushrooms  give  a  good  flavor  to  tliat  sauce; 
strain  it  through  a  tamis  cloth. 

BEEF.  The  names  of  the  various  pieces, 
according  to  the  method  of  dividing  the  car- 
cass, are  as  follows: — The  hind  quarter  con- 
tains  the  Sirloin ;  Rump;  Edge-lxine;  But- 
tock, or  Round;  Mouse  Buttock ;  Veiny 
Piece;  Thick  Flank;  Thin  Flank;  Leg 
Ran;  Legs;  Fore  Rib;  Fixe  [libs.— The 
fore  quarter  contains  the  Middle  Rib  of  four 
ribs;  Chuck  of  three  ribs;  Shoulder,  or  Leg- 
of-Mutton  Piece,  containing  a  part  of  the 
Blade-bone';  Brisket;  Clod;  Neck  End,  or 
Sticking  Piece;  Shin;  Check.  Besides 
these  are  thy  Tongue  and  Pa!a:e.  'i  he  En- 
trails consist  of  die  Heart;  Sweetbreads; 
Kidneys;  Skirts;  and  three  kinds  of  Tripe, 
the  Double,  the  Roll,  and  the  Red  Tripe. 

Ox  beef  is  considered  the  bust.  The  flesh 
should  feel  tender,  be  fine  in  the  grain,  and 
of  a  bright  red  color,  nicely  marbled  or  mix- 
ed with  fat.  The  fat  should  be  white,  rather 
than  of  a  yellow  color. 

Heifer  beef  is  excellent  when  finely  fed, 
and  is  most  suitable  for  small  families.  The 
bone  should  be  taken  out  of  a  round  of  beef 
Ijeforc  it  is  salted,  and  it  must  be  washed, 
skewered,  ;uid  bound  round  firmly  before  be- 
ing l>oiled.  Salt  beef  should  !>e  put  on  with 


BEE 


11 


BEE 


plenty  of  cold  water,  and  when  it  boils  the 
•cum  removed.  It  is  then  kept  simmering 
for  (tome  hours.  A  piece  weighing  fifteen 
pounds  will  require  three  hours  and  a  half  to 
boil.  Carrots  and  turnips  for  garnishing 
should  be  put  on  to  boil  with  the  beef.  If 
in  the  least  tainted,  a  piece  of  charcoal  may 
be  boiled  with  it. 

Wlien  beef  is  to  be  kept  any  length  of  time, 
it  should  be  carefully  wi|)ed  every  day.  In 
warm  weather,  wood  vinegar  is  an  excellent 
pivsei \ative:  it  is  put  all  over  the  meat  with 
a  liriu-li.  To  protect  tile  meat  from  flies,  it 
max  !«•  .-prinkle/l  oxer  with  pepper.  Tainted 
meat  may  IK-  re>t<>rcd  by  washing  in  cold 
water,  afterwards  in  strong  chamomile  tea, 
after  which  it  may  IK-  sprinkled  with  salt  and 
used  thr  t'llluu  iui:  day,  first  washing  it 
in  cold  water.  Roughfy  pounded  charcoal 
rubbed  all  over  the  meat  also  restores  it  when 
tainted.  In  Scotland  meat  is  frequently  kept 
a.  fortnight  smothered  in  oatmeal,  and  care- 
fully wi|M>d  every  day;  and  if  it  should  be  a 
little  tainted,  it  is  soaked  some  hours  before 
it  is  used,  in  <>;itm-.il  and  water. 

These  directions  equally  apply  to  all  sorts 
of  meat.  The  sirloin  is  the  prime  joint  tor 
Whrii  to  be  used,  it  should  be 
washed,  then  dried  with  a  clean  cloth,  and 
the  fat  covered  over  with  a  piece  of  white  (Mi- 
ner tied  on  with  thread.  Tile  spit  should  be 
kept  at  all  times  exceedingly  clean:  it  must 
lie  wiped  dry  immediately  after  it  is  drawn 
from  tin-  meat,  and  uaslied  and  scoured  every 
time  it  is  used.  Care  should  be  taken  to  bal- 
ance  the  roast  properly  upon  the  spit,  l>ut,  if 
\  li.'lil.  il  is  better  to  make  it  equal 
by  fastening  on  a  leaden-headed  skew  r  linn 
it  again.  Tlie  fire  slioulil  be  pre- 
pired  by  putting  on  plenty  of  coals  at  the 
back.  When  put  down,  it  should  be  about 
ten  inches  from  tli-  lire,  and  gradually  drawn 
nearer.  It  is  first  basted  witli  a  little  butter 
or  fresh  dripping,  and  then  well  basted  will) 
iis  nun  fat  all  the  time  it  is  roasting.  Ten 
minute-  I  let' ne  >.-i -\  iii_'.  it  .-houlil  lie  sprinkled 
with  a  little  salt,  then  dredged  with  flour,  and 
basted  till  it  is  frothed.  When  it  is  drawn 
from  the  spit  some  jji-avy  will  run  out,  to 
which  in;".  IK-  added  a  little  boiling  salt-and- 
watcr  poured  al .>ng  (In- hone:  the  beef  is  tlien 
ganiished  with  plenty  of  finely  scraped  horse- 
radish. A  sirloin,  x\i  ijiin.;  aliout  tiltei-n 
pounds,  should  lie  roasted  for  three  hours  and 
a  half.  A  thinner  piece  of  the  same  weight 
requires  only  three  hours.  In  cold  weather 
meat  requires  longer  roast  in;:  than  in  warm, 
and  if  newly  killed  tlum  if  it  lias  been  kept. 

HI. 1.1     \  I. A  MODE.     (1)     Take  about 

eleven  pounds  of  the  mouse  buttock,  or  clod 
oflxiT,  or  a  l>lade-bonc,  or  tlu-  stirkiic-pifce, 
or  the  like  xxeisjht  of  the  breast  of  veal;  cut 
it  into  pieces  of  three  or  four  ounces  each ;  put 


three  or  four  ounces  of  beef  drippings,  and 
mince  a  couple  of  large  onion?,  and  put  them 
into  a  large  deep  stewpan ;  as  soon  as  it  is 
quite  hot.  Hour  die  meat,  put  it  into  the  stew- 
pan,  keep  stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon; 
when  it  h:is  been  on  about  ten  minutes,  dredge 
it  with  flour,  and  keep  doing  so  till  you  have 
stirred  in  as  much  as  you  think  will  thicken 
it;  then  cover  it  with  boiling  water  (it  will 
take  about  a  gallon),  adding  it  by  degrees, 
and  stirring  it  together ;  skim  it  when  it  boils, 
and  then  put  in  one  drachm  of  ground  black 
pepper,  two  of  allspice,  and  two  bay  leaves; 
set  the  pan  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  or  at  a  dis- 
tance over  it  and  let  it  stew  very  slowly  for 
about  three  hours;  when  you  find  the  meat 
sufficiently  tender,  put  it  into  a  tureen,  and 
it  is  ready  for  table. 

BEEF  ALAMODE.  (2)  Take  the 
bone  out  of  a  small  round  of  fine  ox  beef,  cut 
some  fat  bacon  in  long  strips,  dip  them  into 
common  and  shallot  vinegar  mixed,  and  roll 
them  in  the  following  seasoning:  Grated  nut- 
meg, black  and  Jamaica  pepper,  one  or  two 
cloves,  and  some  salt,  parsley,  chives,  lemon- 
lliyme,  notted  marjoram,  and  savoury,  shred 
quite  small.  Lard  the  beef  very  thickly,  bind 
it  firmly  w ilh  ta]>e,  and  rub  die  outside  with 
the  seasoning.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with 
iln-  rind  of  a  lemon,  four  large  onions,  die  nil 
part  of  three  or  f  iir  carrots,  and  two  turnips 
cut  into  dice;  add  a  tea-cupful  of  strong  ale 
and  one  of  vinegar;  let  it  stew  -f;r  six  <  r  eight 
li.uirs,  turning  it  two  or  three  times.  Half 
.in  hour  U'fore  serving,  takeout  die  beef  and 
ililes,  skim  oil' the  fat,  strain  the  sauce, 
and  thicken  it  with  a  little  flonr-aud-water 
mixed  smooth,  add  a  tea-cupful  of  1'ort  v.  irto, 
return  it  all  into  tile  pot,  and  let  it  boil. 

BEEF  ALAMODE.  (3)  Take  a  rump 
or  piece  of  beef,  bone  it,  beat  it  well  and  lard 
it  with  tat  Ixicon,  then  \M  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  some  rind  of  baron,  a  calf's  foot,  an 
onion,  carrot,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  bay 
leaf,  thyme,  a  clove  of  garlic,  some  cloves, 
salt,  and  pepper,  pour  over  tile  whole  a  glass 
of  water,  let  it  stew  oxer  a  slow  fire  for  six 
hours  at  least.  A  clean  cloth  should  be 
placed  over  the  stew  pan  before  the  lid  is 
pit  on,  which  must  !*•  carefully  closed. 
When  it  is  done,  strain  the  gravy  through  a 
sieve,  clear  off  the  fat,  and  serve. 

BEEF  ALADAUBE.  Take  a  round, 
a  lump,  or  a  veiny  piece  of  beef,  lard  it  with 
bacon,  half  roast  it,  or  fry  it  brown;  put  it 
into  a  .-tr\x|<an  or  a  pot  that  will  just  hold 
it ;  add  some  gravy,  an  onion  stuck  with 
cloves,  half  a  pint  nf  white  wine,  a  gill  of 
vinegar,  a  bunch  of  swoet  herbs,  pepper, 
cloves,  mace,  ami  salt ;  cover  it  down  very 
close,  let  it  hut  just  simmer  till  it  is  tender ; 


BEE 


12 


BEE 


lake  two  ox  palates,  two  sweetbreads,  truf- 
fles, morels,  artichoke  bottoms,  stew  them  all 
together  in  some  gravy,  atid  pour  over  the 
beef;  have  ready  some  forced  meat  balls  fried, 
make  some  long,  others  round,  dip  some  sip- 
.pets  into  baiter,  fry  and  cut  them  three  cor- 
ner ways,  and  stick  them  into  the  meat ;  lay 
the  balls  round  the  dish. 

BEEF  ALABRAISE.  (1)  Bone  a 
rump  of  beef;  lard  it  very  thickly  with  salt 
pork  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  cloves,  mace, 
and  allspice,  and  season  the  beef  with  pepper 
and  salt ;  put  some  slices  of  bacon  into  the 
bottom  of  the  pan,  with  some  whole  black  pep- 
per, a  little  allspice,  one  or  two  bay  leaves,  two 
onions,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs.  Put  in  the  beef,  and  lay  over  it 
some  slices  of  bacon,  two  quarts  of  weak 
stock,  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine.  Cover 
it  closely,  and  let  it  stew  between  six  and 
seven  hours.  Sauce  for  the  beef  is  made  of 
part  of  the  liquor  it  has  been  stewed  in, 
strained,  and  thickened  with  a  little  flour  and 
butter,  adding  some  green  onions  cut  small, 
and  pickled  mushrooms.  It  is  poured  hot 
over  the  beef. 

BEEF  ALABRAISE.  (2)  After  a 
rump  of  beef  has  hung  for  five  or  six  days, 
bone,  and  lard  it  thickly,  but  so  as  not  to  ap- 
pear upon  the  surface,  with  bits  of  salt  pork 
or  ham  cut  about  half  an  inch  square,  and 
rolled  in  the  following  seasoning  well  mixed: 
— Finely  minced  onion,  parsley,  thyme,  a  lit- 
tle garlic,  pepper,  and  salt.  What  is  left  over 
of  the  seasoning  add  to  a  pint  of  vinegar,  one 
of  Port  wine,  and  a  tea-cupful  of  salad  oil ; 
steep  the  beef  in  this  for  one  night ;  the  fol- 
lowing day  paper  it,  and  roast  it  in  a  cradle 
spit.  Baste  it  well,  and  serve  it  with  a  thick 
brown  gravy.  A  little  lemon-juice  and  sliced 
pickled  cucumbers  may  be  added.  Garnish 
with  slices  of  boiled  carrot  and  scraped  horse- 
radish. 

BEEF  ALANGLAISE.  Take  a  rump 
of  beef,  or  any  piece  you  like  better  of  the 
same  size ;  tie  it  up  neatly  with  packthread, 
and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  two  or  three 
carrots,  a  parsnip,  three  or  four  onions,  a 
bunch  of  parsley  and  green  onions,  a  clove  of 
garlic,  a  bay  leaf,  thyme,  and  basil ;  moisten 
with  some  stock  or  water,  season,  and  let 
the  beef  stew  gently  till  half  done,  then  put  in 
a  few  small  cabbages,  prepared  in  the  follow- 
ing manner;  boil  a  large  cabbage,  and  hav- 
ing squeezed  it  perfectly  dry,  take  off  the 
leaves  one  by  one,  and  put  within  each  leaf 
a  little  veal  or  other  forcemeat,  suirounding 
it  with  three  or  four  more  of  tlie  leaves,  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  form  little  cabbages, 
something  larger  than  an  egg ;  tie  these  with 
packthread,  and  let  them  be  stewed  with  the 


beef.  When  die  whole  is  done,  clean  away 
the  outside  loose  fat,  and  put  your  beef  in  a 
dish,  cut  the  little  cabbages  in  half,  and  place 
them  round  tile  dish,  with  the  cut  side  out- 
ward. Take  a  little  of  the  stew,  strain  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  having  skimmed  off  the 
fat,  add  a  little  cullis  to  thicken  it.  Reduce 
this  over  the  fire  to  the  consistence  of  a  sauce, 
serving  it  over  the  meat  and  cabbages. 

BEEF  BALLS.  Mince  very  finely  a 
piece  of  tender  beef,  fat  and  lean }  mince  an 
onion,  with  some  lx>iled  parsley;  add  grated 
bread  crumbs,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
grated  nutmeg,  and  lemon-peel ;  mix  all  to- 
gether, and  moisten  it  with  an  egg  beaten ; 
roll  it  into  balls }  flour  and  fry  them  in  boil- 
ing fresh  dripping.  Serve  them  with  fried 
bread  crumbs,  or  with  a  thickened  brown 
gravy. 

BEEF  BOUILLI.  (1)  In  plain  Eng- 
lish, is  understood  to  mean  boiled  beef ;  but 
its  culinary  acceptation,  in  die  French  kitch- 
en, is  fresh  beef  dressed  without  boiling,  and 
only  very  gently  simmered  by  a  slow  fire. 
Cooks  have  seldom  any  notion,  dial  good  soup 
can  be  made  without  destroying  a  great  deal 
of  meat ;  however,  by  a  judicious  regulation 
of  die  fire,  and  a  vigilant  attendance  on  the 
soup-kettle,  this  may  be  accomplished.  You 
shall  have  a  tureen  of  such  soup  as  \\  ill  satisfy 
the  most  fastidious  palate,  and  die  meat  make 
its  appearance  at  table,  at  the  same  time,  in 
possession  of  a  full  portion  of  nutritious  succu- 
lence. This  requires  nothing  more  than  to 
stew  the  meat  very  slowly  (instead  of  keeping 
die  pot  boiling  a  gallop,  as  common  cooks 
too  commonly  do),  and  to  take  it  up  as  soon 
as  it  is  done  enough.  See  "  Soup  and 
bouilli,"  "  Beef  Shin  stewed,"  "  Scotch 
barley  broth."  Meat  cooked  in  this  manner 
affords  much  more  nourishment  than  it  does 
dressed  in  the  common  way,  is  easy  of  diges- 
tion in  proportion  as  it  is  tender,  and  an  in- 
vigorating, substantial  diet,  especially  valua- 
ble to  the  poor,  whose  laborious  employments 
require  support. 

BEEF  BOUILLI.  (2)  Take  a  ramp 
of  beef,  or  part  of  one;  bone  and  tie  it  togeth- 
er in  a  neat  form,  and  put  it  into  a  pot,  with 
any  odd  bits  of  butcher's  meat  you  may  hap- 
pen to  have  in  die  house,  eidier  beef,  veal,  or 
mutton;  you  may  add,  also,  the  Ixmes,  feet, 
and  necks  of  poultry  or  game,  the  meat  of 
which  has  been  taken  for  other  dishes ;  place 
your  pot  on  a  moderate  fire,  not  quite  full  of 
water,  and  skim  gently.  When  it  has  boiled 
a  short  time,  put  in  some  salt,  turni)  s,  six 
carrots,  and  six  onions,  into  oneof  which  yon 
should  stick  three  cloves;  add  a  bunch  of 
leeks.  Let  the  whole  boil  gently,  till  the  beef 
is  perfectly  done ;  then  take  it  out,  and  serve 


BEE 


13 


BEE 


it  up  either  with  fresh  parsley,  with  a  sauce, 
or  with  onions  or  other  vegetables. 

BEEF  BROSE.  After  any  lar.:-  piece 
of  beef  has  been  taken  out  i-l'tltr  pot  it  was 
boiled  in,  skim  off  (lie  fut  with  part  of  the 
liquor,  and  boil  it  in  a  .-:uir,-paM.  Have 
ready  in  a  Ixml  oatineul  that  has  Uvn  toasted 
brown  beli.re  tlie  lire,  pour  in  tlic  Ixiiling 
liquor  and  stir  it  a  little;  if  too  thick,  add 
more  liquor,  and  send  it  to  table  quite  hot. 

BEEF  BAKED.  Let  a  buttock  of  beef 
which  has  U-t-n  in  salt  about  a  week,  be  well 
washed  and  put  into  an  earthen  pan,  with  a 
pint  of  water;  cover  the  pan  tight  w  ith  two 
or  three  sheets  of  foolscap  paper — let  it  I  take 
four  or  live  hours  in  a  moderately  healed 
oven. 

BEEF  BAKED  WITH  POTATOES. 

lloil  MIMIC  potatoes,  peel,  and  pound  tiiein  in 
•  i  ntoiuir    with    one  or  two    small    unions; 
inni.-ti-ii  tin-in  with  milk  and  an  eg) 
up;  add  a  little  salt  and  |<pi'i- 
slices  of  beef,  or  mutton  chops,  with  salt  and 
pi-pper,  and  more  union,  if  the  flavor  is  ap- 
[nnMil;    rub  the  bottom  of  a  pudding  dish 
with  Ixitter,  and  put  a  lajer  of  tJ,.- 

.  which  should  U'  as  thick  as  a  but- 
ter, and  Uien  a  layer  of  meat,  and  so  on  al- 
ternately I'll  the  dish  is  filled,  ending  with 

.     Bake  it  in  an  oven  tor  one  hour. 

I'.Ei'.F  TO  COLLAR.  Cut  oft"  the  end 
of  a  brisket  of  U-ef,  and  bone  it;  sprinkle  it 
with  :-alt  and  salt|>elre,  and  let  it  lie 

:'ier  sonic  grated  nutmeg,  Jamaica 

and  black  |M|)|)ertMHM  chopped  lemon  thyme, 

ijoram,  and  parsley;   Mtrew  it  over 

,  mil   it  up  hard,  sew  it  in  a  clotli, 

put  it  into  a  kirgejar  of  water,  tie  it  closely, 

and  bake  it   in  an  oven ;    take  it  out  of  llie 

jar  and  press  it  with  a  heaiy  weight.     Wlien 

il  is  quite  cold,  take  off  the  cloili,  and  keep 

it  dry. 

BEEF  BROTH.  (Sic  Broth.) 

i.l.l.F,  COLD  RUMP  STEAKS  TO 

\V A!;\l.      Lay  them  in   a  gtewpan,  with 

union  cut   in  quarters,  six  berries 

•  ,  the  same  of  black   |>epper,  cover 

jj  with  Uiiling  water,  let  lliein  stew 

me  hour,  thicken  tin-  liquor  with  Ilour 

aa.l  butler  mblied  together  on  a  plate;    if  a 

pint  of  gravy,  about  one  ounce  of  flour,  and 

the  like  weight  of  butter,  will  do;   put  it  into 

the   slew  pan,  shake   it  well  ov<  r  (he  lire  for 

live  miniii.-.-,  and  it  is  ready;  lay  (lie  steaks 

ami  onion.-  on  a  iii.-h   and  pour  the   gravy 

through  a  sieve  over  them. 

BEEF  Cl'LLIS.  (Set  Cullu.) 


BEEF,  COLD  TENDERLOIN.  (1) 

Cut  off  entire  the  inside  of  a  large  sirloin  of 
beef,  brown  it  all  over  in  a  stewfian,  then 
add  a  quart  of  water,  half  a  pint  of  Port  wine, 
a  tea-cupful  of  strong  beer,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  some  pepper,  salt,  and  a  large 
union  finely  minced;  cover  the  pan  closely, 
and  let  it  stew  till  the  beef  be  very  tender. 
Garnish  with  pickles. 

BEEF,  COLD  TENDERLOIN.    (2) 

( 'nt  oil'  I  In-  meat,  with  a  little  of  tlie  fat,  into 
strips  three  inches  long  and  half  an  inch 
thick ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  dredge 
them  with  flour,  and  fry  them  brown  in  but- 
ter ;  t  hen  simmer  them  in  a  rich  brown  gravy ; 
add  of  mushroom  catchup,  onion,  and  shallot 
vinegar,  a  table-spoonful  each.  Garnish 
with  fried  parsley. 

BEEF  FILLET  IN  MADEIRA.    Lard 

a  good  fillet  of  beef,  the  same  as  for  roasting, 
join  die  ends  together,  and  place  it  in  this 
manner  in  a  stew  pan,  w  ith  some  onions,  car- 
rots, and  a  bouquet  garni,  some  consomme 
and  Madeira,  cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper ; 
let  i(  Ixiil  for  a  moment,  and  afterwards  let 
it  boil  slowly.  Put  fire  upon  tlie  top  of  your 
slew  pan.  When  it  is  done  strain  the  broth 
through  a  silk  sieve,  reduce  it,  and  serve  it 
as  a  sauce  to  your  meat. 

BEEF  FILLET  ROASTED.  This  fil- 
let lies  only  in  tlie  inside  of  the  sirloin  next 

to  the  chini',  and  is  the  tenderest  part  of  the 
<>x  ;  .-pit  this  on  a  small  spit,  but  do  not  run 
it  thnuii','h  tlie  best  pan  of  the  meat:  roast  i; 
.  and  Imste  it  with  butter ;  catch  gravy 
in  a  dish  while  the  beef  is  roasting;  in  tin- 
meantime  make  a  sauce  for  it  with  sweet 
! .'  i '  •-  and  parsley  shred  fine,  tlie  yolks  of  four 
eggs,  an  onion,  and  some  orange-peel  ch>.p- 
ped  small ;  put  these  into  sweet  butter,  gravy, 
a  «|>xiiii"til  or  two  of  strong  broth  and  vine- 
gar, stew  them  all  togetlier.  Put  your  beef 
into  this  sauce,  and  serve  it  hot. 

BEEF  FRICANDEAU.  Take  a  nke 
bit  of  lean  beef,  lard  it  with  bacon,  seasoned 
widi  pepper,  salt,  cloves,  mace,  and  allspice. 
Put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  of  broth, 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  bundle  of  parsley,  all 
sorts  of  sweet  herbs,  a  clove  of  garliek,  a 
.-lullot  or  two,  four  cloves,  pepper  and  .-alt. 
Wlien  the  meat  is  become  tender,  cover  h 
close;  skim  the  sauce  well,  and  strain  it. 
Set  it  on  tlie  fire,  and  let  it  boil  till  it  is  re- 
duced to  a  glaze.  Glaze  the  larded  side  with 
this,  and  serve  the  meat  on  sorrel  sauce. 

BEEF   GOBBETS.   .Take  about   six 

pounds  of  any  piece  of  beef,  except  die  leg  or 

whin,  cut  it  >..to  pieces  abuut  die  size  of  a  lien's 

•  t  them  into  a  stewpan,  and  just  cover 


BEE 


14 


BEK 


them  with  water,  put  them  over  the  fire,  and 
when  the  scum  rises,  skim  it  clear  oft",  then 
put  in  some,  cloves,  mare,  allspice,  and  whole 
pepper,  tied  in  a  muslin,  six  In 'ads  of  celery, 
cut  an  inch  long  and  well  washed,  a  carrot 
or  two  cut  iu  slices,  two  turnips  cut  in  dice, 
a  bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  some  pepper  and 
salt,  and  a  crust  of  bread;  stew  it  till  the 
-meat  is  tender,  and  then  take  out  the  spice, 
herbs,  and  bread ;  have  some  crusts  of  French 
roll  crisped  before  the  lire,  put  them  in  a  dish, 
and  put  the  meat,  &c.  over  them.  You  put 
in  two  ounces  of  Scotch  barley  or  rice  when 
you  put  in  the  herbs;* 

BEEF  GRAVY.     (See  Gravy.) 

BEEF  H-BONE.  Is  to  be  managed  in 
exactly  the  same  manner  as  the  round,  but 
will  be  sooner  boiled,  as  it  is  not  so  solid. 
An  H-bone  of  201bs.  will  be  done  enough  in 
about  four  hours ;  of  lOlbs.  in  three  hours, 
more  or  less,  aa  the  weather  is  hotter  or 
colder.  Be  sure  the  boiler  is  big  enough  to 
allow  it  plenty  of  water-room:  let  it  be  well 
covered  with  water:  set  the  pot  on  one  side 
of  the  fire  to  boil  gently :  if  it  boils  quick  at 
first,  no  art  can  make  it  tender  alter.  The 
slower  it  boils,  the  better  it  will  look,  and 
the  tenderer  it  will  be.  The  same  accom- 
panying vegetables  as  in  "Beef  Salt  Round." 
Dress  plenty  of  carrots,  as  cold  carrots  are  a 
general  favorite  with  cold  beef.  Mem. — 
Epicures  say,  that  the  soft,  fat-like  marrow, 
which  lies  on  the  back,  is  delicious  when  hot, 
and  the  hard  fat  about  the  upper  corner  is 
bt-st  when  cold. 

BEEF  HASHED.  (1)  Take  three  or 
four  on  ions,  chop  them  very  fine,  and  put  them 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  butter  and 
a  little  flour ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  nearly 
done  and  well  browned;  then  moisten  them 
with  a  little  stock  and  half  a  glass  of  wine, 
adding  some  salt  and  coarse  pepper ;  let  them 
stew  till  they  are  thoroughly  done,  and  very 
little  s:mce  remains;  then  put  in  the  cold 
beef,  minced  small,  and  let  the  whole  sim- 
mer till  it  lias  taken  the  flavor  of  the  onion. 
When  yon  serve,  add  a  spoonful  of  mustard 
and  a  little  vinegar. 

BEEF  HASHED.  (2)  Cut  some  of 
the  underdone  part  of  the  beef,  in  slices, 
with  some  of  the  fat,  put  it  into  a  small 
stuwpan,  with  some  onion  or  shallot,  (a 
very  little  will  do),  a  little  water,  pep|x-r, 
and  salt:  boil  it  till  the  onion  is  quite  soft, 
tlien  put  some  of  the  gravy  of  the  meat  to  it, 
and  the  hash.  ,  Do  not  let  it  boil ;  have  a 
small  hot  dish  with  sippets  of  bread  ready, 
and  put  the  hash  into  it,  but  first  mix  a  large 
spoonful  of  vinegar  with  it;  il'sliallu^vinegar 
is  used  there  will  be  no  need  of  the  onion  or 


|  raw  shallot.  You  may  add  a  spoonful  of 
walnut  liquor  or  catchup.  Observe,  that  it 
is  owing  to  boiling  hashes  or  minces,  that 
they  get  hard.  All  sort*  of  stews,  or  meat 
dressed  a  second  time,  should  be  only  sim- 
mered ;  and  this  last  only  hot  through. 

BEEF  HAM.  Rub  a  little  common  salt 
over  a  piece  of  beef  of  about  twenty  pounds 
weight;  take  out  the  bone,  and  in  one  or  two 
days,  rub  well  into  the  beef  the  following  in- 
gredients, finely  pounded  and  well  mixed: 
— two  ounces  of  sal-prunella,  four  oiuices  of 
brown  sugar,  six  ounces  of  bay  salt,  one 
ounce  of  white  pepper,  and  of  cloves  and  nut- 
meg, a  quarter  of  an  ounce  each ;  then  strew- 
over  it  half  a  pound  of  common  salt.  Let  it 
lie  fifteen  days,  turning  it  daily.  It  i.s  then 
hung  up;  or  when  taken  out  of  the  pickle,  it 
may  be  boiled,  and  allowed  to  stand  till  cold 
in  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled;  or  it 
may  be  baked  in  a  deep  dish,  covered  with 
a  coarse  paste. 

BEEF  HEART,  TO  ROAST.  Wash 
it  well,  and  clean  all  the  blood  carefully  from 
the  pipes:  parboil  it  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in 
boiling  water;  drip  the  water  from  it;  put 
in  a  stuffing  which  has  been  made  of  bread 
crumbs,  minced  suet  or  butter,  sweet  marjo- 
ram, lemon  thyme,  and  parsley,  season- 
ed with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Put  it 
down  to  roast  while  hot,  baste  it  well  with 
butter,  froth  it  up,  and  serve  it  with  melted 
butter  and  vinegar;  or  with  gravy  in  the 
dish,  and  current  jelly  in  a  sauce-tureen. 
To  hash  it,  follow  the  directions  given  fijr 
hare. 

BEEF  HUNG,  BURGESS'S  METH- 
OD OF  BOILING.  Hung  beef  for  grat- 
ing should  be  put  on  in  boiling  water,  and, 
to  preserve  the  color,  kept  boiling  as  fast  as 

Cible.     Allow  for  six  pounds  of  beef  one 
•  and  a  half.     It  will  keep  good  for  a 
length  of  time. 

BEEF,  HUNTING.  Rub  well  into  a 
round  of  beef  weighing  about  forty  pounds, 
three  ounces  of  saltpetre ;  let  it  stand  five  or 
six  hours;  pound  three  ounces  of  allspice, 
one  of  black  pepper,  and  mix  them  with  two 
pounds  of  salt,  and  seven  ounces  of  brown  su- 
gar. Rub  the  beef  all  over  with  the  salt  and 
spices,  let  it  remain  fourteen  days,  and  every 
other  day  turn  and  rub  it  with  the  pickle ; 
then  wash  off  the  spices,  and  put  it  into  a 
deep  pan.  Cut  small  nearly  six  pounds  of 
beef  suet,  put  some  into  the  bottom  of  the 
pan,  but  the  greater  part  upon  the  top  of  the 
beef.  Cover  it  with  a  coarse  paste,  and 
bake  it  eight  hours.  When  cold,  take  off 
the  crust,  and  pour  off  the  gravy.  It  will 
keep  good  for  three  months.  Preserve  the 


I3EE 


15 


BEE 


gravy,  as  a  little  of  it  improves  the  flavor  of 
nashes,  soups,  or  any  made  dishes. 

BEEF  KIDNEY.  Take  some  kidneys, 
cut  them  into  thin  slices, and  broil  them  wiih 
apiece  of  butter,  some  salt,  pepper,  parsley, 
and  green  onions,  and  a  clove  of  garlick,  the 

whole  should  Iw  shred  fine;  when  they  are 
sufficiently  done,  take  them  off  t lie  lire  (they 
should  not  broil  too  long,  or  they  will  become 
tough);  add,  when  you  .serve  them,  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar  and  a  little  cullis.  Beef 
kidneys  may  likewise  be  served,  with  shallot 
sauce,  or  sauce  piquante. 


BEEF 
Sauce.) 


KIDNEY     SAUCE.       (See 


BEEF  MINCED.  (1)  Take  some  cold 
roasted  fillet  of  beef,  cut  out  all  the  fat  and 
suet,  then  chop  the  meat  as  fine  as  possible, 
and  put  it  into  a  reduced  Spanish  sauce  made 
txiilinu'  hot;  when  ready  to  serve,  add  a  bit 
of  butter  to  it.  Serve  your  mince  with  soft 
boiled  egga  round  it,  or  with  pieces  of  toast- 
ed bread. 

BEEF  MINCED.  (2)  Mince  your 
beef  MTV  small ;  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with 
a  little  gravy  and  a  little  of  the  fat  of 
fowl  or  any  other  fat,  moisten  it  with  some 
stock  and  a  little  white  wine;  season  accord- 
ing to  your  taste,  then  let  it  simmer  over  a 
gentle  fire  till  it  is  sufficiently  done. 

BEEF  OLIVES.  Cut  the  beef  into  long 
thin  steaks;  prepare  a  forcemeat  made  of 
bread-crumbs,  minced  beef  suet,  chopped 
parsley,  a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  nutmeg, 
pep|>er,  and  salt;  bind  it  with  the  yolks  of 
eggs  beaten ;  put  a  layer  of  it  over  each  steak ; 
roll  and  tie  them  with  thread.  Fry  them 
lightly  in  beef  dripping;  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  some  good  brown  gravy,  a  glass  of 
while  wine,  and  a  little  Cayenne;  thicken  it 
with  a  little  flour  and  butter;  cover  the  pan 
closely,  and  let  them  stew  gently  an  hour. 
Bctiire  serving,  add  a  tahle-spnonnil  of  mush- 
room catchup;  garnish  with  cut  pickles. 

BEEF  AND  OYSTER  SAUSAGES. 
Scald  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  oysters  in 
their  own  liquor;  take  them  out  and  chop  them 
finely  ;  mince  one  pound  of  beef  and  mutton, 
and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet; 
add  the  ovstcrs,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
mace,  and  two  cloxcs  |xmuded;  Ix-at  up  tuo 
egifs,  and  mix  them  well  with  the  other  ingre- 
dients, and  (Kirk  it  closely  into  ajar.  NVheu 
to  be  used,  roll  it  into  the  form  of  small  sau- 
sages; dip  them  into  the  yolk  of  .in  egg  beat- 
en up;  strew  grated  bread  crumbs  over  them, 
or  dust  with  llour,  and  fry  them  in  fresh 
dripping.  Serve  themujxm  fried  bread  hot. 


BEEF  PRESSED.  Salt  a  piece  of  bris- 
ket (thin  |Kirt  of  the  flank)  or  the  tops  of  die 
ribs,  with  salt  and  s:dl|>cire,  five  days,  then 
lx>il  it  gently  till  extremely  tender;  put  it 
under  a  <>ivat  weight,  or  in  a  cheese  press, 
till  peifertK  cold.  It  eats  excellently  cold, 
and  for  sandw  idles. 

BEEF  POTTED.  Take  three  pounds 
of  lean  beef,  salt  it  two  or  three  days  witii 
half  a  pound  of  common  salt,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  saltpetre;  divide  it  into  pieces  of  a 
pound  each,  and  put  it  into  an-  earthen  pan 
just  sufficient  to  contain  it;  pour  in  half  a 
pint  of  w;fter ;  cover  it  close  with  paste,  and 
set  it  in  a  very  slow  oven  for  four  hours:  when 
taken  from  the  oven  pour  the  gravy  from  it 
into  a  basin,  shred  the  meat  fine,  moisten  it 
with  tlie  gravy  poured  from  the  meat,  and 
pound  it  thoroughly  in  a  marble  mortar  with 
fresh  butter,  till  it  beoomei  a  fine  paste,  sea- 
son it  with  black  pepper  and  allspice,  or 
cloves  pounded/  or  grated  nutmeg ;  put  it  in 
pots,  press  it  down  as  close  as  possible,  put 
a  weight  on  it,  and  let  it  stand  all  night; 
ii.-xt  day,  when  it  is  quite  cold,  cover  it  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick  with  clarified  butter, 
and  tie  it  over  with  paper. 

BEEF  SALT  ROUND.  As  this  is 
too  large  for  a  moderate  family,  we  shall 
write  directions  for  the  dressing  half  a  round. 
Get  the  tongue  side.  Skewer  it  up  tight  and 
round,  and  tie  a  fillet  of  broad  tape  round  it, 
to  keep  the  skewers  in  their  places.  Put  it 
into  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  carefully 
catch  the  scum  as  soon  as  it  rises :  let  it  boil 
till  all  the  scum  is  removed,  and  thru  put  the 
boiler  on  one  side  of  the  fire,  to  keep  sim- 
mering slowly  till  it  is  done.  Haifa  round 
of  151bs.  will  take  about  three  hours:  ifit 
weighs  more,  give  it  more  time.  When  you 
take  it  up,  if  any  stray  scum,  &c.  sticks  to 
it  that  has  escaped  the  vigilance  of  your  skim- 
mer, wash  it  off  with  a  paste-brush:  garnish 
the  dislies  with  carrots  and  tuniips.  Send 
up  carrots,  turnips,  and  parsnips,  or  gteens 
&c.  on  separate  dishes.  Peas  pudding,  and 
MY  PUDDING,  are  all  very  proper  accom- 
paniments. N.B. — The  outside  slices, 
which  are  generally  too  much  salted  and  too 
much  1  mi  led,  will  make  a  very  good  relish  as 
potted  beef.  For  using  up  the  remains  of  a 
joint  of  boiled  beef,  see  also  Bubble  and 
Squeak. 

BEEF  RAGOUT.  Take  a  rump  of  beef, 
cut  the  meat  from  the  bone,  flour  and  fry  it, 
pour  over  it  a  little  boiling  water,  about  a 
pint  of  small  beer;  add  a  carrot  or  two,  an 
ouion  stuck  with  cloves,  some  whole  pepper, 
salt,  a  piece  of  lemou-|)ccl,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs;  let  it  stew  an  hour,  then  add  some 
good  gravy ;  when  tin-  meat  is  tender  take  it 


BEE 


16 


BEE 


out,  strain  the  sauce,  thicken  it  with  a  little 
flour;  add  a  little  celery  ready  boiled,  a  little 
catchup,  put  in  the  meat,  just  simmer  it  up.  Or 
the  celery  may  be  omitted,  and  the  ragout  en- 
riched by  adding  mushrooms  fresh  or  pickled, 
artichoke-lx>ttoms  boiled  and  quartered,  and 
liard  yolks  of  eggs.  A  piece  of  Hank,  or 
any  piece  that  can  Ix;  cut  free  from  bone, 
will  do  instead  of  the  rump. 

BEEF  RISSOLES.  Chop  finely  a 
|x>un:l  <;f  lean  tender  lieef,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  beef  met;  pound  them  in  a  marble 
mortar  ;  mix  with  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
grated  bread,  a  little  onion,  and  a  head  of 
gilt-lick  bruised  ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper; 
bind  it  with  three  eggs  well  beaten  ;  imke  it 
up  into  small  cakes,  fry  them  of  a  light  brown, 
then  stew  them  in  gravy  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes. 

BEEF  RIBS  BONED  AND  ROLLED. 
When  you  have  kept  two  or  three  ribs  of 
beef  till  quite  tender,  take  out  the  bones,  and 
skewer  it  as  round  as  possible  (like  a  fillet 
of  veal) :  before  they  roll  it,  some  cooks  egg 
it,  and  sprinkle  it  with  veal  stuffing.  As  the 
meat  is  more  in  a  solid  mass,  it  will  require 
more  time  at  the  fire ;  a  piece  of  tenor  twelve 
pounds  weight  will  not  be  well  and  thoroughly 
roasted  in  less  than  four  and  a  half  hours. 
For  the  first  half  hour,  it  should  not  be  less 
than  twelve  inches  from  the  fire,  that  it  may 
get  gradually  warm  to  the  centre:  the  last 
half  hour  before  it  will  be  finished,  sprinkle 
a  little  salt  over  it;  and  if  you  wish  to  froth 
it,  flour  it,  &c. 

BEEF  RUMP  BAKED.  Take  a  rump 
of  beef,  what  size  you  please,  bone  and  lard 
it,  season  it  with  salt  and  fine  spices  put  it 
into  a  stewpan  just  large  enough  to  hold  it, 
together  with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  some 
green  onions,  mushrooms,  and  shallots ;  some 
lean  bacon  is  an  improvement.  Close  the 
edges  of  the  pan  with  a  strong  paste  ;  let  it 
stew  in  an  oven  for  five  or  six  hours  according 
to  the  size  of  your  meat,  then  serve  it  with 
its  own  sauce  strained.  You  may  dress  a  sir- 
loin in  die  same  way. 

BEEF  RUMP  TO  STEW.  (1)  Bind 
the  beef  tightly,  stick  in  four  cloves,  and  put 
it  in  a  saucepan,  with  three  quarts  of  water, 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  black  pepper  half 
beaten,  some  salt,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs, 
and  three  anchovies  ;  turn  it  often,  and  when 
lialf  done  take  it  out,  pour  off  the  liquor ;  put 
in  the  beef  again,  with  a  pint  of  1'oit  wine 
and  half  a  pint  of  table  beer  made  scalding 
hot,  and  some  of  the  liquor  strained  ;  stew  it 
till  tender,  clwir  off  the  fat,  and  if  the  sauce 
is  not  strong  enough,  add  well-seasoned  beef 
gravy ;  thicken  it  with  flour  nibbed  duwn  in 


a  little  cold  water.  Dish  the  beef,  and  pour 
the  gravy  round  it. 

BEEF  RUMP  TO  STEW.     (2)    Tie 

up  the  I  icrf,  and  put  it  on  to  stew  with  nearly 
as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  it;  add  three 
pounds  of  fat  bacon  cut  into  slices,  a  handful 
of  thyme,  eight  onions,  four  small  carrots, 
two  turnips,  two  or  three  bay  leaves,  nn-.i-- 
black  pepper,  a  little  allspice,  mace,  and 
three  cloves,  a  pint  of  Port  wine  and  one  of 
Sherry.  Let  it  stew  gently  l>etween  seven 
and  eight  hours.  Take  out  the  l>eef,  strain 
the  liquor,  and  skim  off  all  the  fat ;  thicken 
it  with  a  little  flour  rubbed  down  in  cold 
water,  boil  it  up,  and  pour  it  over  the  beef. 
Have  ready  carrots  and  turnips,  cut  accord- 
ing to  fancy,  and  boiled  tender  in  weak  gra- 
vy, and  put  diem  round  die  beef  before  serv- 
ing. 

BEEF  RUMP-STEAKS  STEWED. 

The  steaks  must  be  a  little  thicker  than  for 
broiling:  let  diem  be  all  die  same  diickness, 
or  some  will  be  done  too  little,  and  odiers  too 
much.  Put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan,  widi  two  onions;  when  die  butter  is 
melted,  lay  in  die  rump-steaks,  Jet  diem  stand 
over  a  slow  fire  for  five  minutes,  dien  turn 
diem  and  let  die  odier  side  of  diem  fry  for 
five  minutes  longer.  Have  ready  boiled  a 
pint  of  button  onions;  they  will  take  from 
half  an  hour  to  an  hour ;  put  die  liquor  diey 
were  boiled  in  to  die  steaks;  if  diere  is  not 
enough  of  it  to  cover  diem,  add  brodi  or  boil- 
ing water,  to  make  up  enough  for  that  purpose, 
widi  a  dozen  corns  of  black  pepper,  and  a 
little  salt,  and  let  diem  simmer  very  gently 
for  about  an  hour  and  a  half ,  and  then  strain 
off  as  much  of  die  liquor  (about  a  pint  and 
a  half)  as  you  think  will  make  die  sauce. 
Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan; 
when  it  is  melted,  stir  in  as  much  flour  tu 
will  make  it  into  a  stiff  paste;  some  add 
diereto  a  table-spoonful  of  claret,  or  Port 
wine,  die  same  of  mushroom  catchup  half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  ground  black  pepper:  add  doe 
liquor  by  degrees ;  let  it  boil  up  for  fifteen 
minutes;  skim  it,  and  strain  it;  serve  up  die 
steaks  widi  die  onions  round  the  dish,and  pour 
die  gravy  over.  Veal  cutlets  or  mutton  chops 
may  be  done  die  same  way,  or  as  veal  olives. 

BEEF  RUMP-STEAK  BROILED 
WITH  ONION  GRAVY.  Peel  and  slice 
two  large  onions,  put  diem  into  a  quart  stew- 
pan, with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  water ;  cover 
die  stew  pan  close,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire 
till  the  water  lias  INI! led  away,  and  the  onions 
have  got  a  little  browned ;  dien  add  half  a 
pint  of  good  brodi,  and  boil  the  onions  till 
they  are  tender ;  strain  the  brodi  from  diem, 
ami  chop  diem  very  fine,  and  season  it  with 


BEEF 


17 


BEEF 


mushroom  catchup,  pepper,  and  salt :  put  the 
onion  into  it,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  five 
minutes;  pour  it  into  the  dial),  and  lay  over  it 
a  broiled  rump  steak.  If  instead  of  broth 
you  use  good  beef  gravy,  it  will  be  super- 
lative. 


BEEF  SAUSAGES.  Take  two  beef 
steaks  alxxit  tin-  size  of  two  liamls,  and  the 
thickness  ot'u  linger;  heat  them  well  to  make 
them  tlat,  and  pare  the  edges  of  them ;  then 
mince  the  parings  with  beef  suet,  parsley, 
green  onions,  mushrooms,  two  shallots,  and 
some  basil  leave.-:,  the  whole  shred  fine,  and 
mixed  into  a  f  >reem:'at  with  the  yolks  of  tour 
oil;;*;  spread  this  forcemeat  on  the  slices  of 

I  roll  them  up  in  tin-  form  <>f  sausage-" , 
tie  ihem  up  with  jxickthrcad,  and  slew  them 
with  a  little  stork,  a  ula.-s  of  wine,  si  imcsalt, 
pcpjxT,  an  onion  stuck  with  two  or  three 

•  carrot,  and  a  parsnip;  when  they 
are  dune,  strain  the  liquor;  and,  having 
skimmed  off  the  fat,  reduce  it  over  the  fire 
to  the  consistence  of  a  since.  Take  care 
that  the  sauce  is  not  loo  higly  flavored,  and 
serve  it  over  your  san-aur  •> :  or  they  may  lx- 
served  with  any  ragout  of  vegetables  you 
pleaae.  To  strve  dm  sausages  cold,  to  make 
a  di.-h  tor  the  second  course,  leduce  the  sauce 
by  lei  I  ins  it  boil  \\ilii  the  sausages  till  almost 
all  the  f.rt  is  consumed;  then  let  ihem  stand 
to  cool  with  what  remains  of  the  sauce  ad- 
hering to  them,  and  serve  ujxm  a  napkin. 

BEEF,  SHORT  OR  SPICED.     (To 

Ve  eaten   cold.)      Hang   up   ten    or    twelve 

pounds  of  the  middle  jxirt  of  a  brisket  of 
Out  fat  three  or  four  days,  tln-n  nib  well  into 
it  llirtv  ounces  of  finely  pnwdeivd  saltpetre, 
and,  if  spice  is  -ipproied  of,  one  ounce  of 
alUpici-,  ;i»d  half  an  mince  of  black  pepper; 

.'id  all  ni^ht,  then  silt  it  with  throe 
pounds  of  well-|x>undcd  l>ay  salt,  and  half  a 
pound  of  treacle,  in  which  let  it  remain  ten 

•Miing  il  d.iily.  When  it  is  to  be 
Ixuled,  sew  it  c|,»ely  in  a  cloth,  let  the  water 
only  Mnmicr.  upon  no  account  allowing  it  to 
Uiil,  for  nine  hours  over  a  slow  fire,  or  u|x>n  a 
slo\e.  U'hc  i  taken  out  of  the  water,  place 
two  sticks  across  ibc  |xil,and  let  the  beef  stand 
oier  die  sleam  for  half  an  hour,  turning  il 
from  side  to  Hide,  tlten  press  it  with  a  lieavy 
weight.  It  must  not  be  taken  out  of  the 
clodi  till  perfectly  cold. 

I'.l. \:V  SOUP.     (S#eSoMp.) 

I'.  I  K  T,  SPRING  GARDEN.  Cut  a 
piece  of  Ic  in  l»eef  into  thin  slices  like  Scotch 
collopn,  lard  it  thick  with  bacon,  and  put  il 
into  a  pan  with  salt,  pcp|>er,  mace,  two  or 
thre.-  bay  leaves,  and  a  bunch  of  sue«-t  herlis  ; 
Itike  il  ;  then  clear  out  all  the  gravy,  and  (ill 
it  up  with  clarified  butter. 
2* 


BEEF  TO  SALT  FOR  IMMEDIATE 
USE.  Salt  a  round  of  beef  moderately  up- 
on the  tops  and  sides,  put  it  upon  sticks,  or 
the  IIMI^S  of  a  cheese-tub,  over  a  tub  of  cold 
water,  and  the  silt  will  be  drawn  through  it, 
so  that  it  will  be  fit  for  boiling  next  day. 

\\OTHER    METHOD    IS— To    rub 

for  half  an  hour  into  any  piece  of  beef  a  good 
quantity  of  salt,  and  let  it  lie  for  tlnee  or 
four  days  without  touching  it,  when  it  may 
be  used. 

BKKF  SIRLOIN.     The  noble  sirloin  of 

alxmt  fifteen  |x>und>s  (if  much  thicker,  the  out- 
side u  ill  lx?  done  too  much  before  the  inside 
is  enou.'h),  will  require  to  be  before  the  fire 
about  three  and  a  half  or  four  hours ;  take 
care  to  spit  it  evenly,  that  it  may  not  be 
heavier  on  one  side  than  the  other  ;  put  a  little 
clean  dripping  into  the  drippingpan,  (tie  a 
sheet  of  pa|XT  over  it  to  preserve  the  fat), 
baste  it  well  as  soon  as  it  is  pat  down,  and 
e\ei\  quarter  of  an  hour  all  the  time  it  is 
roasting,  till  tin-  last  half  hour;  then  take 
off  the  paper,  and  make  some  gravy  for  it ; 
stir  tile  fire  and  make  it  clear:  to  brown  and 
froth  it,  sprinkle  a  little  sill  o-'er  it,  baste  it 
with  butter,  and  dredge  it  with  flour;  let  it 
go  a  few  minutes  longer,  till  the  froth  rises, 
take  it  up,  put  it  on  the  dish,  kc.  Garnish  it 
with  hillocks  of  horse-radish,  scraped  as  fine 
as  possible  with  a  very  sharp  knife.  A  York- 
shire pudding  is  an  excellent  accompaniment. 

BEEF  SHIN    STEWED.     Desire  the 

butcher  to  saw  the  bone  into  three  or  four 
pieces,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  just  cover 
it  with  cold  wafer;  when  it  simmers,  skim 
it  clean  ;  then  put  in  a  bundle  of  sweet  herbs, 
a  large  onion,  a  head  of  celery,  a  do/*n  ber- 
ries of  black  |K<p|N>r,  and  the  same  of  allspice: 
stew  very  gently  over  a  sknv  fire  till  the  meat 
is  tender;  this  will  take  from  alxnit  three 
Iwurs  and  a  half,  to  four  and  a  half.  Take  three 
carrots,  |x-el  an. I  cut  ihem  into  small  squares  ; 
peel  and  cut  ready  in  small  squares  a  couple 
of  turnips,  with  a  couple  of  dozen  of  small 
young  round  silver  bulton  onions  ;  boil  them, 
till  tender;  the  tnrni|>s  and  onions  will  be 
enough  in  about  tiftce-i  minutes;  the  Carrots 
will  require  alxmt  twice  as  long:  drain  them 
dry.  When  tlie  beef  is  quite  tender,  lake  it 
out  carefully  with  a  slice,  and  put  it  on  a  dish 
while  you  thicken  apint  and  a  half  of  the  gra- 
vy: to  do  this,  mix  three  tahle-sptMinfuls  of 
Hour  with  a  tea-cupful  of  the  Ix-ef  liquor  ;  stir 
this  ill. ii. Highly  together  till  it  boils,  skim  off 
the  fkt,  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  put  your 
vcyij|nh|i's  in  to  warm;  season  will)  pepper, 
Kail,  and  a  wine-gfciss  of  mushroom  catchup, 
or  Port  wine,  or  both,  anu  pour  't  over  the 
beef.  Dr.  Kitchener  commends  this  dish  as 
one  of  tin;  very  liest  that  can  he  carried  to 


BEEF 


18 


BEER 


table,  and  advises  it  be  called  Ragout  Beef. 
A  LEG  OF  MUTTON  is  excellent  dre-.-ed 
the  sauio  way. 

BEEF    STEAKS,    BROILED.      Cut 

the  steaks  oft'a  nimp  or  the  ribs  of  a  fore 
quarter ;  beat  them  well  with  a  rolling-pin. 
Have  the  gridiron  perfectly  clean  and  heated 
over  a  clear  quick  (ire  ;  lay  on  the  steaks, 
and,  with  meat  tongs,  keep  turning  them  con- 
stantly, till  they  are  done  enough  ;  throw  a 
little  salt  over  them  a  little  before  taking  them 
oft'  the  fire.  Serve  them  as  hot  as  possible, 
plain,  or  with  a  made  gravy  and  sliced  on- 
ion, or  rub  a  bit  of  butter  upon  the  steaks 
the  moment  of  sen-ing.  Mutton  chops  are 
broiled  in  the  same  manner. 

BEEF  STEAKS,  STEWED.    Fry  the 

steaks  in  a  little  butler;  take  them  out  of  the 
pan,  and  fry  in  it  a  minced  onion  ;  return  the 
steaks,  with  a  little  boiling  water  or  gravy, 
some  pepper,  salt,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  vin- 
egar ;  stew  them  gently  for  two  or  three  hours ; 
thicken  tiie  sauce  with  butter  rolled  in  flour ; 
and  serve  with  or  without  pickles. 

BEEF  STEAK  PIE.     (See  Pie.) 

BEEF  STEAK  PUDDING.  (See 
Pudding.) 

BEEF  STEAKS,  DRESSED.  Cut 
thin  steaks,  longer  than  they  are  broad,  off  a 
rump  ;  teat  them  with  a  rolling-pin  ;  season 
them  with  pepper,  salt,  and  finely  minced 
onion  ;  roll  and  tie  them  with  a  thread ;  cut 
them  even  at  the  ends ;  fry  them  brown  with 
a  little  I  nitter ;  make  a  sauce  with  a  piece  of 
butter  browned  with  flour,  some  gravy  or 
water,  a  minced  onion,  pepper,  and  salt. 
Boil  it,  and  add  the  steaks,  and  let  them  stew 
an  hour.  Before  serving,  add  some  mush- 
room catchup,  and  take  off  the  threads. 

BEEF,  SCARLET.  Mix  a  little  mace, 
cloves,  allspice,  black  pepper,  and  salt- 
petre together,  rub  it  well  into  two  pounds  of 
tender  lean  lxt,-f ;  let  it  lie  six  days,  turning 
it  daily,  anil  rubbing  it  with  the  pickle ;  then 
roll  and  tie  it  firmly  with  tape;  put  it  and 
the  pickl;;  intu  a  small  jar,  with  a  slice  or 
two  of  beef  suet  under  and  over  it;  tie  it  close- 
ly, and  bake  it  an  hour.  It  is  eaten  cold, 
cut  in  thin  slices,  and  garnish  with  parsley. 
If  long  kept,  the  color  fades. 

BEEF  STEWED.  (1)  Stew  in  five 
qua  ft?  c;f  water  die  middle  part  of  a  bri.-ket 
of  beef  weighing  ten  pounds,  add  two  onions 
stuck  with  two  cloves,  one  head  of  celery, 
one  large  carrot,  two  turnips  cut  sn:all,  a 
handful  of  sorrel  leaves,  half  an  ounce  of 
black  |>epper,  and  seine  salt.  Stew  it  gent- 


ly for  six  hours.  Make  a  st'.'on?  gravy  with 
( rrrots  and  turnips,  the  MI  nip  to  be  scraped 
and  fried  of  a  brown  color  in  butter  ;  add 
pepper,  salt,  a  little  Cayenne ;  thicken  it  with 
tluur  and  butter,  and  pour  it  over  the  beef, 
with  the  carrots  and  turnips. 

BEEF  STEWED.  (2)  Take  ten 
pounds  of  a  brisket  of  beef,  cut  the  short  ribs, 
and  put  it  into  a  well-buttered  saucepan,  with 
two  large  onions,  stuck  with  three  or  four 
eluves,  two  or  three  carrots  cut  into  quarters, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  small  lemon  sliced, 
and  five  quails  of  water ;  let  it  stew  seven 
hours.  Strain  and  clarify  the  <jravv — thicken 
it  with  butter  and  flour.  Chop  the  carrots 
with  some  eajx-is,  mushroom  catchup,  and 
Cayenne.  Any  other  pickle  that  is  liked  may 
be  added. 

BEEF  STOCK.     (See  Stock.) 

BEEF,  MUTTON,  OR  VEAL  TEA. 

Cut  a  pound  of  lean  gravy  meat  into  thin 
slices ;  put  it  into  a  quart  and  half  a  pint  of 
cold  water  ;  set  it  over  a  very  gentle  fire, 
where  it  will  become  gradually  warm  ;  when 
the  scum  rises,  let  it  continue  simmering 
gently  for  about  an  hour ;  then  strain  it 
through  a  fine  sieve  or  a  napkin ;  let  it  stand 
ten  minutes  to  settle,  and  then  pour  off  the 
clear  tea.  N.  B. — An  onion,  and  a  few 
grains  of  black  pepper,  are  sometimes  added. 
If  the  meat  is  boiled  till  it  is  thoroughly 
tender,  you  may  mince  it  and  pound  it  and 
make  potted  beef. 

BEEF  TRIPE  FRICASSEE.  Let 
your  tripe  be  very  white,  cut  it  into  slips, 
put  it  into  some  boiled  gravy,  with  a  little 
cream  and  a  bit  of  butter  mixed  with  flour ; 
stir  it  till  the  butter  is  melted ;  add  a  little 
white  wine,  lemon-peel  grated,  chopped 
parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  pickled  mush- 
rooms, or  lemon-juice ;  shake  all  together ; 
stew  it  a  little. 

BEER,  SPRUCE.  When  ten  gallons 
of  water,  six  pounds  of  molasses,  and  three 
ounces  of  bruised  ginger  have  boiled  togeth- 
er for  half  an  hour,  two  pounds  of  the  outer 
spriirs  i  if  the  spruce  fir  are  to  be  added,  and 
boiled  for  five  minutes;  the  whole  is  then  to 
lx>  strained  tliroiigh  a  hair  sieve,  and  when 
milk-wann,  put  into  the  cask,  and  a  tea- 
cupful  of  good  yeast  stirred  well  into  it. 
When  it  has  fermented  a  day  or  two,  it  is  to 
be  bunged  up,  and  the  following  day  bot- 
tled. It  will  be  fit  for  use  in  a  week.  The 
t;ii:^fi-  is  sometimes  omitted,  and  instead 
of  the  spruce  fir,  three  ounces  of  the  essence 
may  be  used,  which  is  to  Ix;  well  whisked, 
together  widi  the  molasses,  and  a  gallon  or 
two  of  warm  water;  tlien  put  into  the  cask, 


BEER 


19 


BIS 


which  is  to  be  filled  up  with  water,  and  the 
\  east  added. 

BEER,  SPRUCE.  (2)  The  propor- 
tions are  ten  gallons  of  water,  three  quarts 
of  molasses,  a  tea-cupful  of  ginger,  the  fame 
of  allspice,  three  ounces  of  hops,  diree 
ounces  ;ind  .i  half  of  the  essence  nf  spruce, 
and  half  a  pint  of  good  yeast.  The  hops, 
ginger,  and  allspice,  must  be  boiled  togeth- 
er till  the  hops  fall  to  the  tattom  ;  tlie  molas- 
ses and  spruce  are  then  to  be  dissolved  in  a 
bucket-full  of  the  liquor,  the  whole  strain- 
ed into  a  cask,  and  the  _xea?t  \\ell  stirred  in  ; 
when  the  fermentationfCeases,  the  cask  is 
to  be  bunged  up. 

BEER,  BALM.  Eleven  gallons  of 
water  and  ten  pounds  of  brown  sugar  are 
to  be  clarified  with  the  whites  of  twelve 
.  carefully  skimmed  and  boiled  till 
Ij  reduced  to  ten  gallons;  two  pounds 
anil  a  half  of  the  yellow  (lower  of  lemon 
balm  lieing  put  into  a  cask,  the  liquor, 
when  milk-warm,  is  to  be  poured  over  it, 
and  four  or  fixe  tal>!e-s|x>oiifuls  of  thick 
added.  The  cask  must  be  filled  up 
mm  niiiLT  and  evening  with  what  works  over 
it,  and  bunded  up  when  the  fermentation 
cca-rs.  In  .1  month  the  beer  may  be  tattled, 
and  in  txvo  or  three  months  it  will  lie  fit  for 
drinking.  Half  the  quantity  of  tl>e  flower 
of  lemon  iKilin  will  probably  be  found  to 
communicate  a  flavor  sufficiently  strong,  if 
added  xvlien  tlie  fermentation  is  nearly  over. 

BEER,  GINGER.  For  a  ten-gallon 
cask,  eleven  gallons  of  water,  fourteen 
pounds  of  sugar,  the.  juice  of  eighteen  lem- 
ons, and  one  pound  of  ginger  are  alloxved ; 
tlie  sugar  and  water  are  tailed  with  the 
whites  of  eight  eggs,  and  well  skimmed; 
jn>t  b.-t'ore  coming  to  the  boiling  |H>int,  tlie 
.,  which  mn.-t  ta  bruised,  is  then  ad- 
ded, and  tailed  for  twenty  minutes;  when 
cold,  tlie  clear  part  is  put  into  tlie  ca.-k,  to- 
getlier  willi  the  k'inon-juice  and  two  s|xxm- 
fuL)  of  je:ist;  when  it  has  fermented  for 
three  or  frtir  daxs,  it  is.  lined,  bunged  up, 
.'i  a  fortnight  bottled.  It  may  be  made 
w  hunt  the  fruit. 

;:;;r.K,( MM .KK, QUICKLY  MADE. 
A  gallon  of  boiling  water  is  poured  over 
-quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  one 
ounce  and  a  quarter  of  ginger,  and  the  peel 
of  one  lemon;  xvlien  milk-warm,  tlie  juice 
of  the  lemon  and  a  s|x>oiil'nl  of  yeast  are  ad- 
ded. It  .-hould  !»•  made  in  tin-  evening,  and 
bottled  next  morning,  in  half-pint  stone  tat- 
tles, and  the  cork  tied  down  with  twine. 

BEER    TO    BOTTLE.      V 

briskness  and  liveliness  of  mult  li  ; 


die  cask  fail,  and  they  become  dead  and 
vapid,  which  they  generally  do  soon  after 
they  are  tilted ;  let  diem  "be  tattled.  Be 
careful  to  use  clean  and  dried  tattles;  leave 
them  unstopped  for  twelve  hours,  and  then 
cork  them  as  closely  as  possible  with  good 
and  sound  new  corks;  put  a  bit  of  lump  su- 
as  big  as  a  nutmeg  into  each  tattle: 
the  beer  will  be  ripe,  t.  e.  tine  and  spark- 
ling, in  about  four  or  five  weeks:  if  the 
weather  is  cold,  to  put  it  up  (lie  day  before 
it  is  drunk,  place  it  in  a  room  where  there 
is  a  fire.  Remember  there  is  a  sediment, 
&c.  at  tlie  tattoin  of  the  tattles.,  which  you 
mu>t  carefully  avoid  disturbing;  so  pour  it 
oft"  at  once,  leaving  a  wine-glassful  at  the 
bottom. 

%*  If  beer  becomes  hard  or  stale,  a  few 
grains  of  carbonate  of  potash  added  to  it 
at  the  time  it  is  drunk  will  correct  it,  and 
make  draught  beer  as  brisk  as  tattled  ale. 

BEET  ROOT,  May  be  either  baked 
or  tailed;  it  will  take  from  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  three  hours,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  root,  to  cook  properly. 

BEET  ROOT  PICKLED.  Boil  the 
roots  tender,  peel,  and  cut  them  in  wliat 
shape  you  please  Put  them  into  a  jar,  and 
pour  over  them  a  hot  pickle  of  vinegar,  pep- 
per, ginger,  and  sliced  horse-radish.  You 
may  add  capsicums  and  Cayenne. 

BENTON  SAUCE.  (See  Sauce.) 
BENTON  CAKES.  (See  Caket.) 
BIRDS  POTTED,  HOW  TO  PRK- 

SKKVK     VVHKN     THEY    BKGIN    TO    GROW 

BAIL  \Vlien  birds  have  come  a  great  way 
they  often  smell  so  bad  that  they  can  scarce- 
ly be  tarne  from  tlie  rankncss  of  the  butter, 
by  managing  them  in  the  follow  ing  manner 
they  may  be  made  as  good  as  ever.  Set  a 
l.oi,'e  saucepan  of  clean  xxatcr  on  theiire; 
when  it  tails  take  oft'  the  tatter  at  die  lop, 
then  take  tlie  fowls  out  one  by  one,  throw 
them  into  that  saucepan  of  water  half  a 
minute,  whip  it  out,  and  dry  it  in  a  clod) 
inside  and  out;  continue  till  diey  are  all 
done,  scald  die  pot  clean ;  xx  hen  tlie  birds 
are  quite  cold,  season  them  xvith  mace, 
pepper  and  salt,  according  to  taste,  put 
diem  down  close  in  a  pot,  and  pour  clari- 
fied tatter  over  them. 

BISCUITS.  (1)  Weigh  eight  eggs,  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar,  and  the  weight  of  four 
in  (lour;  U-ut  up  the  yolks  of  five,  anil  put 
them  in  a:i  eailii.-n  xi  •.-.*•!  xxilh  some  rasped 
lemon-peel  and  die  sugar,  beat  them  lo^eth- 
i  r  lor  a  long  time,  then  add  the  xvhitrs  of 
gs  also  well  beaten,  tlien  mix  in  the 


BIS 


20 


BIS 


flour  by  degrees,  pour  this  into  paper  cases 
of  whatever  form  and  size  you  please ;  strew 
powder  sugar  over  them,  and  bake  in  a  cool 
oven. 

BISCUITS.  (2)  Make  a  pound  of  flour, 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  some  milk  into  a 
very  stiff  paste;  beat  it  wejl,  knead  till  quite  j 
smooth,  roll  very  thin  and  cut  into  biscuits, 
prick  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  till  dry  and 
crisp. 

BISCUITS,  ALMOND.  (1)  Blanch 
and  pound,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet  al- 
monds, sprinkling  them  occasionally  with  fine 
sugar;  then  beat  them  up  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  with  an  ounce  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  and  four  ounces  of  fine  sugar,  adding 
afterwards  the  whites  of  four  eggs  whipped  to 
a  froth :  have  ready  some  paper  moulds  made 
like  boxes,  about  the  length  of  two  fingers 
square;  butter  them  within,  and  put  in  the 
biscuits,  throwing  over  them  equal  quantities 
of  flour  and  powdered  sugar:  bake  in  a  cool 
oven,  and  when  the  biscuits  are  done  of  a 
good  color,  take  them  out  of  the  papers. 
Bitter  almond  biscuits  are  made  in  the  same 
manner,  with  this  difference,  that  to  two 
ounces  'of  bitter  almonds  must  be  added  one 
ounce  of  sweet  almonds. 

BISCUITS,  ALMOND.  (2)  Take 
eight  ounces  of  sweet,  and  as  many  bitter  al- 
monds, fifteen  whites,  and  eight  yolks  of  eggs, 
two  niinrcs  of  flour,  and  two  pounds  of  powder 
sugar,  pour  boiling  water  on  your  almonds, 
and  almost  immediately  after  turn  that  away 
and  pour  cold  water  on  them ;  rub  off  the 
skins  one  by  one  with  a  napkins-then  pound 
them  to  a  paste  in  a  mortar,  moistening  them 
with  the  whites  of  two  eggs.  Beat  the  fif- 
teen whites  to  a  snow,  and  the  eight  yolks 
with  half  the  quantity  of  the  sugar,  and"  then 
mix  them  with  the-  almond  paste;  put  the 
remainder  of  the  mgar  into  a  basin ;  sift  some 
flour  over  it ;  stir  the  mixture  till  all  the  in- 
gredients are  thoroughly  incorporated,  and 
pour  it  into  small  pajier  cases,  glaze  them 
with  the  sugar  and  flour  silted  over  them. 
Bake  them  in  a  pretty  warm  oven. 

BISCUITS,    ALMOND   (  SMALL). 
Beat  up  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  lor  ten  min- 
utes, with  four  ounces  of  powder  sugar  and 
one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds  well  pounded; 
then  add  a  whole  egg,  and  beat  it  up  five 
minutes  longer.     Whip  the  whites  to  u  .-innn; 
froth ;  mix  them  and  an  ounce  and  half  of 
fine  sifted  flour  with  the  yolks;    work  this 
paste  well,  and  then  pour  it  into  small  well- 
bnttered  oopjicr  moulds  melon-shaped  ;  glaze  : 
them;    sprinkle    them    with  powder  sugar,  j 
and  bake  for  eighteen  or  twenty  minutes  in  i 
a  moderate  oven. 


BISCUITS,  ALMOND  (SOUFFLES). 
Blanch  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  cut 
them  into  dice  and  dry  them  in  the  oven. 
Make  a  glaze  with  the  whites  of  two  new- 
laid  eggs ;  mix  tlie  almonds  and  a  pinch  of 
crisped  orange-flowers  into  this,  and  put  it 
into  very  small  paper  cases;  do  not  fill  them 
a!  HIVC  half  full,  as  they  rise  considerably  in 
the  oven,  and  would  otherwise  fall  over  and 
spoil  their  appearance;  bake  them  in  a 
moderately  heated  oven.  As  soon  as  they 
are  pretty  firm,  they  are  done. 

BISCUITS,  ANISE  (SMALL).  Wash 

four  drachms  of  starred  anise,  and  dry  it  in 
the  oven;  work  up  the  yolks  of  five  cjrgsand 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powder  sugar  for 
about  ten  minutes;  whip  the  whites  to  a 
strong  froth,  and  mix  them  lightly  with  die 
yolks:  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  dry  sifted 
flour  and  the  anise;  pour  this  paste  into  a 
paper  case,  eleven  inches  long  by  seven  wide. 
Bake  it  in  a  slow  o\en  for  afx>ut  forty  or 
fifty  minutes,  when,  if  firm,  take  it  out.  As 
soon  as  it  is  cold  remove  the  paper,  and  cut 
the  biscuits  into  whatever  forms  you  please: 
dry  thorn  in  the  oven  until  they  become 
brittle. 

BISCUIT,  BREAD.  Dry  fine  flour  and 
powder  sugar,  of  each  half  a  pound,  thor- 
oughly: beat  up  four  very  fresh  eggs  for  ten 
minutes,  then  add  the  sugar,  beat  them  ten 
minutes  longer,  put  the  flour,  and  continue 
beating  ten  minutes  more.  Butter  vour  bak- 
ing plates  and  bake.  Caraway  or  aniseed 
may  be  added,  if  you  please. 

BISCUITS,  BUTTER.  Make  a  paste 
as  for  sweet  biscuits,  and  when  you  have 
put  in  the  flour,  pour  over  it  eight  ounces  of 
melted  butter,  alter  it  has  cooled  a  little; 
mix  them  together  a  short  time  with  a  wood- 
en spoon,  and  put  into  battered  moulds, 
which  must  only  be  filled  three  parts,  as  the 
paste  pulfc  up  considerably,  and  would  rise 
from  the  moulds,  without  care. 

BISCUIT  CAKE.     (See  Cake.) 

BISCUITS,  CHESTNUT.  Take  six 
ounces  of  roasted  and  skinned  chestnuts,  a 
little  grated  lemon-peel,  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  powder  sugar,  and  ten  whites  of  eggs. 
Pound  the  chestnuts  to  a  paste,  and  then 
beat  it  up  in  an  earthen  pan  with  the  oilier 
ingredients;  when  your  paste  is  of  a  proper 
lliic  kiu,-s,  take  it  up  with  a  knife,  and  lay 
it  on  paper,  and  form  into  biscuits  wliatevei 
size  you  please.  Bake  them  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  when  of  a  nice  color  take  them 
out.  Do  not  remove  them  from  the  paper 
tiU  they  are  cold. 


BIS 


21 


BIS 


BISCUITS  .DROP.  (1)  Pound  and  sift 
a  pound  of  fine  sugar,  take  the  yolks  of  seven 
and  the  whites  of  ten  eggs  and  beat  well  sepa- 
rately for  an  hour.  Dry  and  sift  a  pound  of 
fine  flour,  and  when  cold  mix  it  with  the 
eggs  and  sugar,  beat  all  together  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  drop  upon  paper,  sift  sugar  over, 
and  bake  them. 

BISCUITS,  DROP.  (2)  Beat  a  pound 
of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  four,  and  whites  of  two 
i  a  little  white  wine,  then  put  in  a 
pound  of  (lour,  and  a  few  seeds,  mix  all  well 
together.  Butter  a  paper,  lay  your  batter 
on  in  j.|x*JiiUi]--.  ire  them  with  line  sugar, 
and  set  them  in  a  gentle  oven. 

BISCUITS  EN  CAPSULE.  Put  half 
a  pound  of  fine  sugar  into  an  earthen  pan, 
and  pour  over  it  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs ; 
put  the  whites  into  a  preserving-pan,  and 
whisk  them  for  half  an  hour ;  in  the  mean- 
time the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  must  be 
stirred  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  pour  them 
»n  tin-  whites;  stir  them  gently,  add  six 
ounces  of  fine  flour  and  two  of  powder  sugar 
sifted,  and  tin-  grated  rind  of  a  lemon.  Mix 
it  all  well  ti>sether,  but  with  great  care,  lest 
the  snow  of  tlie  whites  should  fall.  With 
this  fill  some  small  buttered  moulds,  or  pa- 
per cases,  and  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven  to 
a  deep  yellow,  first  sprinkling  them  with  su- 
gar. If  they  are  in  moulds,  turn  them  out 
when  baked;  but  tl»ey  may  remain  in  the 
paper  cases,  which  need  not  be  buttered. 

I!  1>(  TUTS,  FILBERT.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  filberts,  an  ounce  of  bitter  almond*. 
the  whites  of  *ix,  and  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  an  ounce  of  flour,  and  half  a  pound  of 
sugar;  blanch  and  pound  the  filberts  and 
almonds,  adding,  occasionally,  a  little  white 
of  egg  to  prevent  their  oiling.  Beat  the 
white*  to  a  snow,  then  the  yolks,  mix  the 
latter  with  half  the  sugar;  beat  them  well, 
and  having  mixed  the  other  ingredients  to- 
gether, put  them  into  a  sieve,  and  whilst 
you  are  heating,  sift  them  into  the  white*; 
when  all  arc  thomni^ily  incorporated,  pour 
ill-1  preparation  into  paper  rases,  and  bake 

tlii-iu  in  a   in. nil-rait-  oven.     A   little  grated 
ii  •     ™ 

lemon-peel,  or   any  otlier   aromatic     in^ie- 

ilii-nt  added  to  tin-  yolks,  greatly  improves 
these  biscuits. 

lUSCI  IT,  FRENCH.  Weigh  five  e^. 
a:nt  tlu-ir  weight  in  dried  and  sifted  flour, 
ami  in  fin<-ly-|immded  loaf  sugar;  beat  the 
whites  i  if  tin-  eggs  to  a  stiff  troth,  and  by 
degrees  U-at  in  (In-  sugar  and  tlur  llnnr.  :unl 
then  add  the  I  > -aten  yolks ;  with  a  SJMKMI  half 
fill  yellow  iea-?upH,  previously  rubimi  with 
butter,  a.  i- i.- 1 H  I  <  <l  -'i  ;ar  over  the  top.  Bake 

them  in  a  quick  nven.     Or,  drop  the  biscuit 


in  a  round  form  upon  sheets  of  white  paper 
buttered;  sift  sugar  over  them. 

BISCUIT,  KING'S.  Put  half  a  pound 
of  butter  into  a  basin,  and  work  it  about 
well  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  break  six  eggs 
and  whisk  them  well,  add  a  half  pound  of 
powder-sugar,  and  whisk  ten  minutes  longer, 
and  then  mix  them  with  the  butter ;  stir  in 
six  ounces  of  currants,  and  the  same  of  dried 
flour.  When  all  is  well  mixed,  drop  it,  the 
size  of  a  shilling,  on  paper,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven.  Take  them  off  while  hot. 

BISCUIT,  LEMAN'S.  Sift  and  dry 
a  pound  of  fine  flour ;  nib  it  into  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  pounded 
and  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  a  bit  of  volatile 
salt  about  the  size  of  a  nut;  mix  in  as  much 
new  milk  warmed  as  will  make  it  into  a  stiff 
paste;  work  it  well  together,  and  let  it  re- 
main for  two  or  three  hours,  and  then  roll  it 
out,  and  make  it  into  small  square  biscuits, 
and  into  round  balls  a  little  flattened ;  prick 
them  with  a  fork,  and  bake  them  upon  tins 
in  a  quick  oven.  Take  care  they  do  not 
become  brown. 

BISCUITS,  NAPLES.  Put  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  Hour  to  a  pound 
of  fine  sifted  sugar ;  sift  both  together  three 
times,  then  add  six  eggs  beaten  well,  and  a 
spoonful  of  roee-water;  when  the  oven  i» 
nearly  hot,  bake  them,  but  not  too  wet. 

BISCUIT,  THE  NUNS.  Take  the 
whites  of  two/ve  eggs,  and  beat  them  to  a 
froth  ;  a  pound  of  almonds,  blanch  them,  and 
beat  them  with  the  froth  of  the  whites  of 
eggs,  as  it  rises ;  then  take  the  yolks,  and 
two  pounds  of  fine  sugar  and  beat  them  well 
together,  then  mix  the  almonds  with  the 
sugar  and  eggs ;  then  add  lialf  a  pound  of 
flour,  with  cue  peel  of  four  lemons  grated,  and 
some  citron  shred  small ;  put  the  composition 
in  little  cakcpans,  and  bake  them  in  a  quick 
oxen,  and  when  they  are  colored,  turn  them 
on  tins  to  harden  the  bottoms:  but  before  you 
set  them  in  tile  oven  again,  sift  on  them  some 
(lonl)le-retined  sugar.  Let  the  pans  be  but- 
tered, and  (ill  them  halfway. 

BISCUITS,  POTATO.     (1)    Beat  the 

yolks  of  fifteen  eggs  with  a  pound  of  sifted 
.-iij.ii ,  ignite  the  rind  of  a  lemon  on  a  piece 
of  lump  Mi-^ar;  scrape  off  the  yellow  sugar 
with  a  knile,  and  having  dried  it  well,  add 
it  to  the  aln\e.  and  continue  to  beat  till  it 
becomes  quite  white;  in  the  meantime  whip 
up  an  equal  iniuiU-r  of  whites,  and  mix  them 
lightly  with  the  rest;  then  sift  into  it  half  a 
l»>iiiiii  of  (Kiiaio  (lour;  stir  it  in,  and  pour 
the  preparation  into  iraper  eases,  but  not  to  fill 
them ;  glaze,  and  place  the  case*  on  paper 


BIS 


22 


BIS 


laid  on  a  clean  baking-tin,  and  bake   in  a 
moderate  oven. 

BISCUIT,  POTATO.  (2)  Beat  sepa- 
rately the  yolks  and  whites  of  fifteen  eggs,  and 
with  tile  yolks  beat  a  pound  of  pounded  and 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  tlie  grated  peel  of  a  lem- 
on ;  when  very  light  add  the  whites,  and  sift  in 
through  a  silk  sieve  half  a  pound  of  flour  of 
potatoes;  mix  all  lightly  together,  half  fill 
paper  cases,  and  strew  over  them  roughly 
pounded  sugar,  put  a  piece  of  paper  upon  a 
board,  place  the  paper  cases  upon  it,  and 
bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven.  To  ornament 
them,  put  here  and  there  upon  the  top  a 
little  red-currant  jelly,  and  serve  them. 

BISCUITS,  THE  QUEEN'S.  Take 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour,  a  pound  and  a 
half  pf  fine  sugar,  the  whites  of  twenty-four, 
and  the  yolks  of  eighteen  eggs,  put  in  cori- 
ander seeds  beaten  small  at  discretion;  mix 
these  well  together,  and  make  them  into  a 
soft  paste,  add  a  little  soft  yeast  or  not.  Lay 
this  paste  on  paper,  or  in  crusts  about  two 
inches  broad,  and  four  inches  long,  set  them 
in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  they  begin 
to  turn  brown,  take  them  out,  and  lay  them 
on  paper,  in  a  dry  place. 

BISCUITS,  RICE.  Take  the  grated 
rind  of  a  lemon,  the  whites  of  sixteen  eggs, 
the  yolks  of  six,  half  a  pound  of  rice  flour, 
ten  ounces  of  powder  sugar,  two  ounces  of 
apple,  and  the  same  of  apricot,  marmalade, 
and  two  ounces  of  orange-flowers.  Pound 
the  marmalades  and  orange-flo\  -era  together, 
then  add  the  whites  of  eggs,  whipped  to  a 
snow ;  beat  the  yolks  with  the  sugar  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  put  them  to  the  rest,  and 
when  well  mixed  in,  add  the  lemon-peel  and 
rice-flour ;  work  all  together,  pour  the  prep- 
aration into  paper  cases,  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  glaze  them. 

BISCUITS,  SMALL.  Make  a  paste 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  three 
spoonfuls  of  fine  powder  sugar,  and  the  same 
of  marmalade ;  add  whites  of  eggs  to  work 
it  pretty  soft;  and  make  this  paste  to  what 
shape  and  size  you  please. 

BISCUITS,  SPUNGE.  Beat  together, 
for  half  an  hour,  four  well-beaten  eggs,  and 
half  a  pound  of  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar ; 
then  mix  in  lightly  six  ounces  of  dried  and 
sifted  flour,  and  die  grated  peel  of  a  lemon, 
or  a  tea-spoonful  of  essence  of  lemon,  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  rose  water.  Flour  the 
pans,  fill  them  half  full,  and  sift  pounded 
sugar  over  them.  Bake  them  in  a  quick  oven. 

BISCUITS,  ST.  CLOUD.  Sift  two 
ounces  of  rice-Uour  through  a  tammy  into  an 


earthen  pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  powder 
sugar,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  a  little 
sirecn  lemon  grated ;  beat  them  up  together 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour:  w:hisk  the  whites 
df  eight  eggs  to  a  froth  and  mix  them  with 
the  yolks.  Put  this  into  buttered  moulds  or 
paper  cases,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
When  done  take  thorn  from  the  mould  while 
hot,  and  ice  them  in  the  following  manner: 
beat  up  half  the  white  of  an  egg  and  two 
spoonful!  of  powder-sugar  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  add  occasionally  a  fow  drops  of  lem- 
on-juice; when  it  becomes  quite  white  lay  it 
over  the  biscuits ;  and  place  them  in  the  oven 
a  minute  to  dry.  ^ 

BISCUIT, SUGAR.  (1)  Theweightof 
eight  eggs  in  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar,  and 
of  four  in  dried  flour ;  beat  separately  the 
whites  and  yolks ;  with  the  yolks  beat  the 
sugar  for  half  an  hour,  then  add  the  whites 
and  the  flour,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg, 
lemon-peel,  or  pounded  cinnamon.  *  Bake 
them  in  yellow  tea-cups,  or  drop  them  upon 
paper,  as  the  French  biscuits. 

BISCUIT,  SUGAR.  (2)  Mix  together 
one  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  the  same 
quantity  of  pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
ten  well-beaten  eggs,  and  a  few  pounded 
cloves.  Drop  this  upon  floured  tins,  and 
bake  it. 

BISCUIT,  SWEET.  One  pound  of 
flour,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  the  same  quan- 
tity of  finely-pounded  sugar,  and  two  eggs, 
without  being  beaten;  make  it  all  into  a 
very  stiff  paste  with  cool  water,  roll  it  out, 
and  to  form  the  biscuits,  roll  a  bit  of  the 
paste  into  a  ball  about  the  size  of  the  yolk 
of  an  egg,  flatten  it  a  little,  and  place  them 
upon  tins  to  bake. 

BISCUITS,  YARMOUTH.  Pick  and 
wash  half  a  pound  of  currants,  dry  them  well, 
rub  a  little  flour  with  them,  and  put  them 
with  half  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  and  half 
a  pound  of  fresh  butter;  mix  them  into  a 
paste  with  three  eggs,  roll  it  out  to  the 
thickness  of  the  eighth  of  an  inch,  cut  them 
into  what  shapes  you  please.  Bake  them  of 
a  light  color  in  a  hot  oven. 

BISHOP.  Roast  four  good-sized  bitter 
oranges  till  they  are  of  a  pale  brown  color; 
lay  them  in  a  tureen,  and  put  over  them  half 
a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  three 
glasses  of  claret;  place  the  cover  on  tlie 
tureen,  and  let  it  stand  till  next  day.  When 
required  for  use,  put  the  tureen  into  a  pan  of 
boiling  water, press  the  oranges  with  a  spoon, 
and  run  the  juice  through  a  sieve ;  then  boil 
the  remainder  of  tlie  bottle  of  claret,  taking 


BLA 


BLA 


care  that  it  do  not  burn ;  add  it  to  the  strain- 
ed juice,  and  serve  it  warm  in  glasses. 

BLANC.  A  mixture  of  butter,  salt, 
water,  and  a  slice  of  lemon;  also  as  follows: 
— Cut  a  |xnind  of  beef  met,  and  the  same  of 
fet  bacon  into  dice,  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  salt  and  pepper,  one  or 
two  onion*,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  little  thyme, 
a  bay  leaf  and  .-pice. 

111.  \\CMANGE.  (1)  To  one  ounce  of 
picked  isinglass,  put  a  pint  of  water,  boil  it 
till  the  i-i.'ijas-  i-  melted,  with  a  bit  of  cin- 
namon;  put  to  it  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of 
cream,  two  ounces  of  suei :t  almonds,  six 
bitter  ones  blanched  and  beati.-n,  a  bit  of 
lemon-|x-el,  >\wvti'n  it,  stir  it  over  the  fire, 
let  it  boil,  strain  and  let  it  cool,  sqiHfzc  in 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  put  into  moulds; 
garnish  to  your  fancy.  Blancmange  may  be 
colored  green  by  adding  spinach-juice;  red, 
by  a  bit  of  cochineal  in  brandy,  let  it  stand 
half  an  hour  and  strain  it;  yellow  with 
saffron. 

BLANCMANGE.     (2)     Boil  for  a  few 

minutes  a  pint  and  a  half  of  new  milk,  with 
an  ounce  of  picked  isinglass  (if  in  summer, 
one  ounce  and  a  quarter),  the  rind  of  half  a 
lemon  jx-eled  very  thin,  a  little  cinnamon, 
and  a  Made  of  mace,  and  two  and  a  half 
ounces  of  lump  suirar:  blanch  and  pound 
eight  or  ten  bitter,  and  half  an  ounce  of 
almonds  \ery  line,  with  a  spoonful  of 
rose  water,  and  mix  them  with  the  milk; 
strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve  or  napkin  into 
H  basin,  with  half  a  pint  of  good  cream. 
Let  it  stand  half  an  hour;  pour  it  into 
another  basin,  leaving  the  sediment  at  the 
bottom,  and  when  nearly  cold  till  it  into 
moulds;  when  wanted,  put  jour  finger  round 
the  mould;  (Mill  out  tiie  blancmange;  set 
it  in  the  centre  of  a  dish,  and  garnish 
with  slices  of  orange.  N.  B. — About  hall"  a 
gill  of  noyeau  may  be  substituted  for  the  al- 
monds. 

ULVNCMANGE.  (8)  Boil  till  dissolv- 
ed, in  a  large  tea-cupful  of  wa'er,  three-quar- 
ters of  an  oii'ice  of  isinglass;  when  milk- 
wann,  add  it  to  a  quart  of  rich  cream,  with  a 
stick  of  cinnamon,  the  perl  of a  lemon,  two  or 

three  laurel  lea\e.-,  or  a  few  bitter  aln ds ; 

sweeten  with  |x>undcd  loaf  sugar;  stir  it 
over  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  tor  two  or  three 
minutes ;  strain  it  through  a  bit  of  muslin 
into  a  deep  dish,  and  stir  it  till  nearly  cold, 
then  jxiur  it  into  an  earthen-ware  mould  or 
shape;  the  following  day,  dip  the  mould  into 
warm  water  tor  a  minute  or  so,  clap  it  with 
the  hand  to  loosen  the  edge,  place  the  glass 
or  china  di.-li  oxer  the  mould,  and  turn  it 
out  quickly  upon  the  dish.  A«  much  cow- 


heel  stock  as  will  half  fill  the  shape  may  be 
substituted  for  the  isinglass. 

BLANCMANGE.  (4)  Blanch  and  pound 
with  a  little  ratafia,  or  ror-e-water,  two 
ounces  of  sweet,  and  six  bitter  almonds  ;  dis- 
solve three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  i- 
add  it,  when  milk-warm,  to  a  quart  ot'^cxid 
cream;  half  milk  half  cream  may  be  used; 
mix  in  the  almonds  the  peel  of  a  small  lem- 
on, and  a  bit  of  cinnamon;  sweeten  it  with 
|x>nndcd  loaf  suspir,  let  it  stand  lor  two  or 
three  hours,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  stir  it 
constantly,  and  let  it  boil  for  six  or  eiuht 
minutes ;  .strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve,  and 
stir  it  till  nearly  cold,  then  pour  it  into  a 
mould. 

BLANCMANGE.  (5)  Blanch  and  pound 
one  ounce  of  sweet  almonds  with  a  irlass  of 
sherry,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  pounded  loaf 
sugar;  add  it  to  three-quarters  of  an  ounce 
of  i>in^la-s  di:-sol\ed  in  half  a  pint  of  water, 
and  boil  it  till  the  flavor  of  the  almond.-  Ix: 
extracted,  stirring  it  all  the  time;  strain  it 
inro'iji  a  bit  of  thin  muslin,  and  mix  with 
it  a  ([iiart  of  gpod  cream;  stir  it  till  quite 
cold,  and  pour  it  into  a  shape. 

BLANCMANGE,  AMERICAN.     Mix 

half  a  pint  of  cold  water  with  two  ounces  of 
arrowroot,  let  it  settle  for  fifteen  minute:!, 
pour  off  the  water,  and  add  a  table-spoon- 
ihl  of  laurel  water,  and  a  little  .sugar ;  sweet- 
en a  quart  of  new  milk,  boil  it  with  a  little 
cinnamon,  and  half  the  |x,vl  of  a  lemon ;  pick 
out  the  cinnamon  and  lemon,  and  pour  the 
Ixiilin^  milk  upon  the  arrow-root,  stirring  it 
all  die  time.  I'm  it  into  a  mould,  and  turn 
it  out  the  following  day. 

BLANCMANGE,  DUTCH.  Wash  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  isinglass,  pour  a  pint 
and  a  ludf  of  boiling  water  over  it,  let  it 
stand  for  an  hour,  and  then  boil  it  for  twen- 
ty- minutes;  strain,  and  ulien  it  is  nearly 
cold,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  a 
pint  of  Lisbon  wine,  the  peel  of  one  and 
juice  of  two  lemons,  with  a  stick  of  cinna- 
mon, and  sweeten  uith  pounded  loaf  sugar; 
stir  it  over  die  fire  till  it  Ix^in  to  simmer, 
bni  do  not  allow  it  to  Ixiil ;  pick  out  the 
|xi-l  and  cinnamon,  pour  it  into  H  lianin, 
stir  it  till  nearly  cold,  and  put  it  into  a 
shape. 

BLANCMANGE  EGGS.  Make  a  small 
hole  at  the  end  of  four  or  live  large  eggs, 
and  let  out  all  the  egg  carefully  ;  wash  the 

.-hell,  drain,  and  (ill  ill  m  with  Maitrm.mire, 
place  them  in  a  deep  dish  tilled  with  rice  or 
barley  to  keep  tin-in  steady,  and  when  quite 
cold,   m-ully   break    and    (x-cl    ol)'  I 
(,'ut  the  |x-el  "f  a  lemon  into  delicately  fine 


BRA 


BRE 


shreds,  lay  them  into  a  glass  dish,  and  put 
in  the  eggs;  or  serve  them  in  a  glass  dish 
with  a  pink  cream  round  them. 

BLACK  COCK,  MOOR  GAME,  AND 
GROUSE,  Are  all  to  be  dressed  like  par- 
tridges; die  black  cock  will  take  as,  much 
as  a  pheasant,  and  moor  game  and  grouse 
as  the  partridge.  Send  up  with  them  cur- 
rant-jelly and  fried  bread  crumbs. 

BOILING.  See  directions  at  beginning 
of  the  book. 

BOLAR  CAKE.     -See  Cake. 
BRANDY  PUDDING.    See  Pudding. 

BRAISING  PAN.  A  deep  well-tinned 
copper  vessel,  with  two  ears,  the  lid  of  which 
must  close  hermetically,  and  have  a  ledge 
round  so  that  coals  or  hot  ashes  may  be 
placed  on  the  top  when  necessary. 

BRAISING.  This  is  a  method  of 
dressing  meat,  poultry,  &c.  &c.  widiout  its 
undergoing  any  evaporation.  It  is  done  by 
lining  a  braising-pan  with  thin  slices  of  bacon, 
beef,  or  veal,  upon  which  place  whatever 
you  may  intend  to  braise,  and  also  add 
carrots,  onions,  lemons,  bay  leaf,  herbs, 
pepper  and  salt. 

BRAWN,  A  COLLAR  OF.  Wash, 
scrape,  and  clean  very  thoroughly  a  large  pig's 
head,  feet,  and  ears;  lay  them  into  salt 'and 
water,  with  a  little  saltpetre,  for  three  hours. 
To  make  die  collar  larger,  boil  two  ox  heels, 
with  the  head,  feet,  and  ears,  till  all  the 
bones  can  be  taken  out  easily,  dien  put  the 
head  round  die  mould,  and  the  feet  and  small 
pieces  into  die  middle;  put  it  together  while 
hot,  and  press  it  with  a  heavy  weight  till  it 
becomes  cold.  Boil  for  half  an  hour,  in  as 
much  of  the  liquor  as  will  cover  die  brawn, 
one  handful  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  pepper, 
and  one  or  two  bay  leaves.  When  cold, 
pour  it  over  the  brawn. 

BRAWN,  MOCK.  Take  die  blade  bone 
out  of  the  shoulder,  and  boil  it  gendy  two 
hours  or  more,  according  to  the  age  of  the 
boar. '  When  it  is  cold,  season  it  very  high- 
ly with  pepper,  Cayenne,  salt,  a  very  little 
allspice,  minced  onion,  and  thyme.  Let  it 
lie  a  night  in  this  seasoning;  die  following 
day,  make  a  savoury  forcemeat  of  pounde.d 
veal,  ham,  beef  suet,  minced  parsley,  thyme, 
and  an  onion,  a  little  lemon-peel,  salt,  nut- 
meg, pepper,  and  Cayenne;  bind  it  with  an 
egg  beaten,  and  stuff  where  die  bone  has 
been  taken  out.  Put  it  into  a  deep  pan  with 
die  brown  side  downwards,  and  lay  under  it 
twigs  or  small  sticks,  to  keep  it  from  stick- 


ing to  the  bottom ;  poor  in  a  bottle  of  beer, 
and  put  it  into  the  oven.  When  nearly  done, 
take  it  out  and  clear  off  all  the  fat,  add  a 
bottle  of  Madeira  and  die  juice  of  a  large 
lemon,  return  it  to  the  oven,  and  bake  it  till 
it  become  as  tender  as  a  jelly,  so  diat  a 
straw  will  pierce  it  easily.  It  the  tear  is 
an  old  one,  it  will  require  to  be  liaked  six  or 
seven  hours.  This  dish  is  eaten  hot. 

BRAWN,  TO  BAKE.  Take  raw  lean 
brawn,  and  the  same  quantity  of  fat  bacon, 
mince  them  small,  then  pound  them  in  a 
stone  mortar,  with  a  handful  of  ~au>j.  season- 
ed with  salt,  pepper  and  ginger,  add  die 
yolks  of  egus,  and  some  vinegar,  then  put 
the  brawn  into  a  cold  paste,  lay  on  butter 
and  bay  leaves,  make  your  pie  round  and 
bake  it.  To  be  eaten  cold. 

BREAKFAST  CAKE.     See  Cake. 

BREAD.  (1)  Put  a  quartern  of  (lour  into  a 
large  basin,  with  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt; 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle;  dien  put  in  a 
basin  four  table-spoonfuls  of  good  yeast ;  stir 
in  a  pint  of  milk,  lukewarm  ;  put  it  in  die 
hole  of  die  flour;  stir  it  just  to  make  it  into 
a  thin  batter;  dien  strew  a  little  Hour  over 
die  top;  dien  put  it  on  one  side  of  die 
fire,  and  cover  it  over;  let  it  stand  till  the 
next  morning ;  dien  make  it  into  dough ;  add 
half  a  pint  more  of  warm  milk;  knead  it 
for  ten  minutes,  and  dien  set  jt  in  a  warm 
place  by  die  fire  for  one  hour  and  a  half: 
then  knead  it  again,  and  it  is  ready  eidier 
for  loaves  or  bricks:  bake  diem  from  one 
hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  according  to 
the  size. 

BREAD.  (2)  Mix  into  six  pounds  of  sifted 
flour  one  ounce  of  salt,  nearly  half  a  pint  of 
fresh  sweet  veast  as  it  comes  from  the  brew- 
ery, and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  warmed  milk 
to  make  the  whole  into  a  stiff  dough ;  work 
and  knead  it  well  upon  a  pasteboard,  on 
which  a  little  flour" has  been  strewed,  for  fif- 
teen or  twenty  minutes,  then  put  it  into  a 
deep  pan,  cover  it  with  a  wanned  towel,  set 
it  before  the  fire,  and  let  it  rise  for  an  hour 
and  a  half,  or  perhaps  two  hours ;  cut  oft"  a 
piece  of  this  sponge  or  dough ;  knead  it  well 
for  eight  or  ten  minutes,  together  with  flour 
merely  sufficient  to  keep  it  from  adhering  to 
the  board ;  put  it  into  small  tins,  filling  diem 
three-quarters  full;  dent  the  rolls  all  round 
with  a  knife,  and  let  them  stand  a  few  min- 
utes before  putting  diem  into  die  oven. 
The  remainder  of  the  dough  must  then  be 
worked  up  for  loaves,  and  baked  eidier  in 
or  out  of  a  shape. 

BREAD,  ALMOND.  Take  a  pound  o 
die  best  almonds,  slice  diem  die  round  way, 


BRE 


BRE 


beat  and  sift  a  pound  of  double-refined  sugar, 
and  strew  it  over  the  almonds  as  you  cut 
them,  stirring  them  frequently  to  prevent  their 
sticking  together ;  when  all  the  sugar  is  used, 
put  them  into  an  earthen  basin,  with  a  few 
carraway  seeds,  a  little  gum  dragon  (dis- 
solved in  rose-water  and  strained),  three 
grains  of  musk  and  ambergris  dissolved  in 
fine  sugar,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten 
to  a  very  light  froth,  and  two  spoonfu's  of 
fine  flour;  when  well  mixed  lay  them  on 
wafers  the  size  of  macaroons;  open  them 
with  a  knife  or  bodkin,  lest  two  or  three 
pieces  stick  together;  the  quicker  you  lay 
them,  the  better  they  will  look;  put  them 
into  a  well-heated  oven,  taking  care  they  do 
not  scorch ;  when  half  baked,  take  tin -in  out, 
wash  them  with  the  white  of  an  egg  beaten 
to  a  froth,  grate  a  little  line  sugar  over  them, 
and  bake  them  about  ilalf  an  hour  longer. 

BREAD  AND  BUTTER  PUDDI.VJ. 
See  Pudding. 

BREAD,  CHESTNUT.  Roast  a  hun- 
dred fine  chestnuts,  being  careful  not  to 
burn  them;  peel  them  well,  and  pound  them 
with  butter  and  double  eream ;  pass  them 
through  a  sieve;  add  two  egg.*,  and  then 
strain  them  again.  Weigh  your  paste,  and 
for  every  pxind,  allow  half  a  pound  of 
powder,  a  little  vanilla  in  powder,  and  two 
ounces  of  flour;  mix  these  together,  and 
form  of  the  preparation  a.-  many  chestnuts 
as  it  will  make;  lay  them  on  a  sheet  of 
wafer  paper,  Imtter  and  dorez  diem  seve- 
ral times,  and  then  Ixike  them  in  a  Int  oven. 

BREAD  rilKI-'.SECAKES.  Slice  a 
large  French  roll  \ei  y  thin,  jmur  on  it  gome 
boilintr  en-am;  when  cold,  add  six  or  eight 
eggs,  half  a  pound  of  Imtter  melted,  some 
nutmeg,  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  a  little  sugar, 
and  half  a  pound  of  currant*.  1'ut  them  in 
pud'  paste  as  oilier  clieesecakcs. 

BREAD,  TO  SERVE  WITH  COF- 
FEE. Whip  up  the  whiles  of  ten  eggs  to 

a  thick  snow;  add  to  tin 'in  the  yolk-  U-.it.-ii 
with  eight  ounces  of  powder-sn^ur,  place  it 
o\er  ;i  chin-coal  tin-,  ami  whip  it  for  halt"  an 
hour,  thru  take  it  from  tin-  lire,  and  uhip 
again  until  cold.  Mix  in  eight  ounces  of 
sifted  flour.  Have  ready  buttered  two 
moulds  lined  with  paper,  (MMir  the  paste  in- 
to them,  and  kike  them  in  .1  moderate  oven  : 
when  dune,  take  tin-in  out  of  the  moulds  a-id 
remove  the  paper;  when  <••.!, I,  cut  them  in 
slices  about  the  size  of  a  finger.  Place  them 
on  a  plate  of  copper,  o\er  a  rhaivoal  tire, 
and  when  one  side  is  brown,  turn  them  and 
brown  the  other  side.  Tlkt«  if  kept  dry 
will  be  good  for  a  long  time. 
3 


BREAD  CRUMBS,  FRIED.  Rub  bread 
that  has  been  baked  two  days,  through  an 
iron  sieve  or  cullender ;  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  two  ounces  of  butter ;  place  it  over 
a  moderate  fire,  and  stir  them  with  a  wooden 
spoon  till  of  a  fine  gold  color;  spread  them 
on  a  sieve,  and  let  them  stand  ten  minute* 
to  drain,  turning  them  often. 

BREAD,  FRENCH.  Take  half  a  bushel 
(or  six  pounds)  of  flour,  put  it  on  the  slab, 
make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put  two 
ounces  of  yeast ;  make  your  dough  with  warm 
water,  to  about  the  consistence  of  briocht; 
work  it  up  well,  adding  two  ounces  of  salt, 
dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water;  cover, and 
set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise ;  on  this  part 
of  the  operation  depends  the  quality  of  the 
bread.  Having  left  the  dough  one  or  two 
hours,  (according  to  the  season),  knead  h 
ayain,  and  leave  it  as  before,  for  two  hours. 
In  the  meanwhile,  heat  the  oven,  divide  the 
dough  into  eight  equal  parts,  of  which  form 
as  many  loaves,  into  any  shape  you  please; 
put  them  into  the  oven  as  quickly  as  possible. 
As  goon  as  they  are  done,  rub  the  crusts  with 
a  little  butter,  which  will  give  it  a  fine  yellow 
color. 

BREAD,  FRENCH,  OR  ROLLS. 
Take  half  a  bushel  or  six  pounds  of  sifted 
flour,  knead  it  into  dough,  with  two  quart* 
of  milk,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  warm 
Ixitter.  half  a  pound  of  yeast,  and  two  ounces 
of  salt ;  when  the  whole  is  well  worked  up, 
cover,  and  leave  it  to  rise.  In  two  hours 
time,  form  it  into  rolls,  and  lay  them  on 
tinned  plates.  Place  them  in  a  slow  oven. 
When  they  have  been  in  an  hour,  put  them 
into  a  very  hot  oven  for  twenty  minute?. 
Rjtsp  them  as  soon  as  they  are  baked. 

BREAD  FRITTERS.  Boil  half  a  pint 
of  milk  till  reduced  to  half,  with  a  little 
sugar,  salt,  half  a  spoonful  of  orange-flower 
w.iter,  and  a  little  lemon-peel  shred  fine; 
have  ready  some  pieces  of  crumb  of  bread, 
cut  about  the  size  of  half-crowns,  but  thicker; 
put  tin-in  into  ilu-  milk  to  soak  a  little,  then 
drain,  flour,  and  fry  them.  Glaze  them  with 
sugar,  and  pass  the  salamander  over  them. 

BREAD,  LONDON.  To  make  London 
bread,  put  a  bushel  of  good  flour  which  has 
been  ground  a  mondi  or  six  weeks,  in  one 
end  of  the  trough,  and  make  a  hole  in  the 
middle  i.f  it.  Take  nine  quarts  of  warm 
wiiter,  and  mix  it  with  one  quart  of  good 
yeast;  put  it  into  tin;  flour,  and  stir  it  well 
with  your  hands;  let  it  remain  until  it  rises 
as  high  as  it  will  go,  which  will  take  about 
an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Watch  it  carefully 
to  its  ultimate  height,  and  do  not  suffer  it  to 


BRE 


26 


BRE 


fall;  then  make  up  the  dough  with  eight 
quart.-  more  of  warm  water  and  one  pound 
of  salt;  work  it  well  with  vour  hands,  and 
then  cover  it  over  with  a  sack  or  other  coarse 
cloth.  Put  the  fire  into  the  oven;  heat  it 
thoroughly,  and  by  the  time  it  is  hot,  the 
dougli  \\iil  Ix;  ready.  Next  make  the  dough 
into  loaves,  not  exceeding  four  or  five  pounds 
each,  sweep  out  the  oven  clean,  and  put  in 
the  loaves.  Shut  the  oven  close,  and  they 
will  be  baked  in  about  two  hours  anda  half; 
•  then  <>|K'ii  llie  oven,  and  draw  the  bread.  In 
summer  the  water  need  not  be  more  than 
blood  warm,  but  in  winter  it  must  be  a  few 
degrees  higher  in  heat.  During  a  hard 
frost,  however,  the  water  should  be  as  hot  as 
the  hand  could  bear  it,  though  not  sufficiently- 
hot  to  .scald  the  yeast,  as  that  would  spoil 
the  whole  batch  of  bread.  Oilier  quantities 
of  bread  are  made  in  the  same  proportion. 

BREAD,  PLAIN  SHORT.  The  same 
proportions  of  flour  and  butter  must  be  used 
as  in  the  receipt  for  short  bread ;  tin's  must 
be  mixed  together,  rolled  out,  but  not  made 
quite  so  thick  as  in  the  rich  kind;  but  in  the 
same  form,  pricked  with  a  fork,  and  pinch- 
ed all  round.  A  little  sugar  may  be  added. 

BREAD,  RICE.  Take  a  pound  of  rice, 
and  let  it  simmer  in  two  quarts  of  water  till 
it  is  quite  tender;  when  it  is  of  a  proper 
warmth  mix  it  thoroughly  with  four  pounds 
of  flour,  adding  yeast  and  salt,  the  same  as 
for  other  bread ;  the  proper  quantity  of  yeast 
to  be  used,  is  about  four  spoonfuls;  knead  it 
well ;  then  set  it  to  rise  before  the  fire.  A 
portion  of  the  flour  should  be  reserved  to 
make  up  the  loaves.  If  the  rice  should  re- 
quire more  water,  it  must  be  added,  as  some 
rice  swells  more  than  other. 

BREAD,  SPICED,  COMMON.  (1) 
Boil  .three  pounds  of  honey  in  a  gallon  of 
water  fdr  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  pour  it 
on  the  flour  in  the  trough ;  mix  them  together 
•well,  until  the  flour  will  imbibe  no  more  li- 
quid; when  a  little  cooled,  add  three  ounces 
of  potash,  infused  the  night  before  in  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  knead  the  whole  well,  putting 
to  it  some  pounded  anise.  Roll  out  the 
paste,  and  with  paste-cutters  of  various  forms, 
cut  it  into  little  figures,  lay  them  on  a  well- 
oiled  tin,  and  bake  them;  when  done,  wash 
them  over  with  milk.  With  this  paste 
spiced  nuts  are  made ;  when  formed,  lay  them 
on  tins,  and  leave  jn  a  warm  place  for  two 
or  three  days  before  they  are  baked. 

BREAD,    SPICED,  (2)     FLEMISH. 

The  evening  before  you  wish  to  make 
your  spiced  bread,  dissolve  three  ounces  of 
white  potash  in  halt' a  pint  of  milk,  and  set 
it  aside.  The  next  morning  put  a  consider- 


able quantity  of  sifted  flour  into  a  trough, 
make  a  hole  in  the  heap,  into  which  pour  six 
pounds  of  clarified  honey  ;  whilst  lx>iling,stir 
it  well  with  a  strong  spatula,  until  the  honey, 
reduced  to  a  firm  paste,  will  imbibe  no  more 
j  flour,  then  spread  it  all  over  the  bottom  of 
the  trough,  and  leave  it  for  alxnit  ten  or  fif- 
leen  minutes;  a!  the  end  of  that  time,  irthe 
paste  be  sufficiently  cool  for  you  tolx-ar  your 
hand  on  it,  rub  its  surface  with  the  infusion 
of]X)tash;  then  let  a  strong  ix.Tson  knead  it, 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  bakers  knead 
bread.  Have  readv  a  number  of  different- 
sized  moulds  of  |iear  tree  wood,  on  which 
are  cut  (pretty  deep)  octagons  of  various  di- 
mensions; then  cut  your  paste  into  as  many 
pieces  as  you  have  moulds,  in  the  following 
proportions: — for  the  mould  containing  a 
pound,  take  eighteen  ounces  of  paste ;  for  a 
half  pound,  fourteen  ounces;  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  seven  ounces  of  paste,  and  so  on ; 
knead  each  piece  separately  on  the  slab,  rub 
them  with  flour  to  prevent  their  adhering,  and 
then  put  them  into  the  respective  moulds; 
press  it  down  tight;  in  a  minute  or  two  turn 
them  over,  place  them  on  a  tin  plate  (pre- 
viously rubbed  with  olive  oil),  and  with  a 
soft  brush  take  off  what  flour,  may  remain 
on  the  surface  of  die  spiced  bread,  and  bake 
them  in  a  moderate  oven.  Whilst  they  are 
baking,  dissolve  some  isinglass  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  beer,  with  which,  by  means  of 
a  hair  pencil,  wash  the  outside  of  the  spiced 
bread  as  soon  as  it  is  done;  and  then,  while 
it  is  moist  and  warm,  decorate  it  with 
blanched  almonds,  candied  lemon  and  orange 
peel,  cut  into  dice.  You  may,  if  you  think 
proper,  cut  these  sort  of  sweet  meats  into 
very  small  pieces,  and  knead  them  into  your 
paste  at  first.  When  they  are  nearly  cold, 
separate  the  pieces  with  a  knife. 

BREAD,  SHORT.  For  two  poundsof 
sifted  flour  allow  one  pound  of  butter,  salt  or 
fresh ;  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  candied  orange 
and  lemon  peel,  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
blanched  sweet  almonds,  and  carraway  com- 
fits, a  quarter  of  a  pound  each ;  cut  the  lem- 
on, the  orange  peel,  and  almonds  into  small 
thin  bits,  and  mix  them  with  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  the  flour,  a  few  of  the  caraway  com- 
fits, and  the  sugar;  melt  die  butter,  and  when 
cool,  pour  it  clear  from  the  sediment  into  the 
flour,  at  the  same  time  mixing  it  quickly. 
With  the  hands,  form  it  into  a  large  round 
of  nearly  an  inch  thick,  using  the  remainder 
of  the  flour  to  make  it  up  with ;  cut  it  in- 
to four,  and  with  the  finger  and  thumb  pinch 
each  bit  neatly  all  round  the  edge ;  prick  them 
with  a  fork,  and  strew  the  rest  of  the  carra- 
way  comfits  over  the  top.  Put  the  pieces 
upon  white  paper  dusted  with  flour,  and 
then  upon  tins.  Bake  them  in  a  moderate 
oven. 


BRO 


BRO 


BREAD,  TIPSY.  Pare  off  the  cnist, 
and  cut  into  thin  round  slices  of  four  or  five 
inches,  the  crumb  of  a  Uvo|>enny  or  three- 
penny roll;  spread  over  eacli  bit  raspberry 
or  strawlxTry  jam,  and  place  die  slices  one 
over  the  other  pretty  high  in  :i  glass  dish, 
and  pour  over  them  as  miichshcm,  .-weelen- 
ed  with  sugar,  as  the  bread  will  soak  in; 
stick  round  llic  side-:,  and  over  the  top, 
blanched  sweet  almonds,  cut  like  straws,  and 
pour  a  custard  round  it.  It  may  IN;  made 
the  day  before,  or  two  or  three  hours  la-lore 
dinner,  and  with  tlie  crumb  of  loaf  bread. 

BREAD  SAUCE.     See  SCMCU. 

BRENTFORD  ROLLS.  Mix  widi 
two  pounds  of  flour  a  little  silt,  two  ounces 
of  sifted  sugar,  four  ounces  of  butter,  and 
two  eggs  beaten  with  two  spoonfuls  of  yeast, 
and  about  a  pint  of  milk ;  knead  the  dough 
well,  and  set  it  to  rise  liefore  the  fire.  Make 
twelve  rolls,  butter  tin  plates,  and  set  them 
before  the  fire  again  to  rise.  When  of  a 
proper  size,  bake  them  for  half  an  hour. 

BRIOCHE.  Divide  half  a  quartern  of 
flour  into  three  parts,  and  knead  into  one  of 
them  half  an  ounce  of  yeast  and  a  little  warm 
water,  wrap  it  in  a  cloth  and  set  it  by,  in 
summer  time  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and 
in  winter  tor  u  whole  hour.  Wlien  it  has 
risen,  put  it  to  the  remainder  of  the  flour, 
with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  butter,  ten  eggs, 
half  a  glass  of  water,  and  nearly  an  ounce 
of  salt ;  knead  them  together  with  your  hand 
thoroughly,  and  then  wrap  it  in  a  clean  nap- 
kin and  leave  it  nine  or  ten  hours.  Cut 
the  paste  into  the  size  you  wish  to  make  the 
cakes,  moisten,  and  roll  diem  in  the  hand, 
flatten  the  top,  and  gild  diem  with  the 
yolk  of  an  egg.  Half  an  hour  will  be 
sufficient  to  bake  the  small  ones;  large 
cakes  will  require  an  hour  and  a  half. 

BROILING.  See  directions  at  begin- 
ning of  the  book. 

BROCCOLI.  Set  a  pan  of  clean  cold 
water  on  the  table,  and  a  saucepan  on  the 
fire  with  plenty  of  water,  and  a  handful  of 
salt  in  it.  Broccoli  is  prepared  by  stripping 
off  all  the  side  shoots,  leaving  the  top;  peel 
off  the  skin  of  the  stalk  H  itli  a  knife;  cut  it 
close  off  at  die  bottom,  and  put  it  into  the 
pan  of  cold  water.  When  tlie  water  in  the 
yiewjkui  boils,  and  die  broccoli  is  ready, 
put  it  in;  let  il  boil  In  i-Uy  till  the  stalks 

feel  t lei,  from  leu  to  twenty  minutes;  take 

it  up  with  a  slice,  that  you  may  not  break  it; 
let  it  drain,  and  serve  up.  If  some  of  the 
heads  of  broccoli  are  much  bitter  than  tlie 
others,  put  them  on  to  boil  first,  so  that  they 
may  get  ail  done  together.  06*.— It  makes 


a  nice  supper-dish  served  upon  a  toast,  like 
asparagus.  It  is  a  very  delicate  vegetable, 
and  \MI  must  take  it  up  the  moment  it  is 
done,  and  send  it  to  table  hot. 

BROTH,    BARLEY.     Chop  a  leg  of 

beef  in  pieces,  boil  it  in  three  gallons  of 
water,  with  a  carrot  and  a  crn.-t  of  bread, 
till  reduced  to  half;  then  strain  it  oft"  and 
put  it  into  the  pot  again  with  half  a  pound 
of  barley,  (bur  or  five  heads  of  celery  cut 
small,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  an  onion,  a 
little  chopped  parsley,  and  a  few  marigolds. 
Let  it  boil  an  hour.  Take  an  old  cock  or 
large  fowl  and  put  it  into  the  pot,  boil  till 
the  broth  is  quite  good.  Season  with  salt, 
take  out  the  onion  and  herbs,  and  serve  it. 
The  fowl  may  be  omitted. 

BROTH,  OF  BEEF.  Wash  a  leg  or 
shin  of  beef  very  clean,  crack  die  bone  in 
two  or  three  places,  add  to  it  any  trim- 
mings you  have  of  meat,  game,  or  poultry 
(beads,  necks,  gizzards  or  feet)  and  cover 
them  with  cold  water.  Watch  and  stir  it 
up  well  from  die  bottom,  and  die  moment  it 
begins  to  simmer,  skim  it  carefully.  Your 
brodi  must  be  perfecdy  clear  and  limpid — 
for  on  this  depends  die  goodness  of  the 
soups,  sauces,  and  gravies,  of  which  it  is 
die  basis.  Then  add  some  cold  water  to 
make  die  remaining  scum  rise,  and  skim 
it  again.  When  die  scum  has  done  rising, 
and  die  surface  of  die  brodi  is  quite  clear, 
put  in  one  carrot,  a  head  of  celery,  two 
turnips,  and  two  onions.  It  should  not 
have  any  taste  of  sweet  herbs,  spice  or  gar- 
lic; either  of  these  flavors  may  be  added 
afterward,  if  desired.  Cover  it  close,  set  it 
by  die  side  of  die  fire,  and  let  it  simmer 
very  gently,  so  as  not  to  waste  die  brodi, 
for  four  or  five  hours  or  more,  according  to 
die  weight  of  die  meat.  Strain  it  dirough 
a  sieve  into  a  clean  and  dry  stone  pan,  and 
set  it  in  the  coldest  place  you  have. 

dF*  This  is  die  foundation  of  all  sorts 
of  soups  and  sauces,  brown  and  white. 

BROTH,  CHICKEN.  Take  the  re- 
maining parts  of  a  chicken  from  which 
panada  has  been  made,  all  but  die  rump; 
skin,  and  put  them  into  die  water  it  was' 
first  boiled  in,  widi  die  addition  of  a  little 
mace,  onion,  and  a  few  pepper-corns,  and 
simmer  it.  When  of  a  good  flavor,  put  to 
it  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  sweet  almonds 
beaten  with  a  spoonful  of  water;  boil  it 
a  little  while,  and  when  cold,  take  off  die 
fat. 

BROTH,    CHICKEN    PECTORAL. 

Prepare  a  chicken  in  the  usual  way,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  pints  and  a 
half  of  wnler,  two  ounc«p  of  pearl  barley, 


BRO 


28 


BRO 


the  same  of  rice,  and  two  ounces  of  the  best 
honey;  boil  all  together,  skimming  well  for 
three  hours,  until  it  be  reduced  to  two-thirds. 

BROTH,  JELLY.  Take  a  joint  of  mut- 
ton, a  capon,  a  fillet  of  veal,  and  three  quarts 
of  water ;  put  these  into  an  earthen  pan,  and 
boil  them  over  a  gentle  fire  till  reduced  to 
half;  then  squeeze  all  together,  and  strain 
the  liquor  through  a  napkin. 

BROTH,  MUTTON.  Take  two  pounds 
of  scrag  of  mutton;  to  take  the  blood  out, 
put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  cover  it  with 
cold  water;  when  the  water  becomes  milk- 
warm,  pour  it  off;  then  put  it  in  four  or  five 
pints  of  water,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  a 
table-spoonful  of  best  grits,  and  an  onion ;  set 
it  on  a  slow  fire,  and  when  you  have  taken 
all  the  scum  off,  put  in  two  or  three  turnips ; 
let  it  simmer  very  slowly  for  two  hours,  and 
strain  it  through  a  clean  sieve. 

BROTH,  MUTTON,  FOR  THE  SICK. 
Have  a  pound  and  a  half  of  a  neck  or  loin 
of  mutton ;  take  off  the  skin  and  the  fat,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan ;  cover  it  with  cold 
water,  (it  will  take  about  a  quart  to  a  pound 
of  meat),  let  it  simmer  very  gently,  and 
skim  it  well ;  cover  it  up,  and  set  it  over  a 
moderate  fire,  where  it  may  stand  gently 
stewing  for  about  an  hour ;  then  strain  it  off. 
It  should  be  allowed  to  become  cold,  when 
all  the  greasy  particles  will  float'on  the  sur- 
face, and  becoming  hard,  can..jbe  easily 
taken  off,  and  the  settlings  wilF?emain  at 
the  bottom.  N.  B. — We  direct  the  meat  to 
be  done  no  more  than  just  sufficiently  to  be 
eaten ;  so  a  sick  man  may  have  ple'nty  of 
good  broth  for  nothing;  as  by  this  manner 
of  producing  it,  the  meat  furnishes  also  a 
good  family  meal.  This  is  an  inoffensive 
nourishment  for  sick  persons,  and  the  only 
mutton  broth  that  should  be  given  to  conva- 
lescents, whose  constitutions  require  replen- 
ishing with  restorative  aliment  of  easy  di- 
gestion. The  common  way  of  making  it 
with  roots,  onions,  sweet  herbs,  &c.  &c.  is 
too  strong  for  weak  stomachs.  Plain  broth 
will  agree  with  a  delicate  stomach,  when 
the  least  addition  of  other  ingredients  would 
immediately  offend  it. 

BROTH,  MEAGRE,  OR  SOUP  WITH 
HERBS.  Set  on  a  kettle  of  water,  put  in 
two  or  three  crusts  of  bread,  and  all  sorts  of 
good  herbs ;  season  with  salt ;  put  in  butter, 
and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ;  boil  it  for  an 
hour  and  a  half:  then  strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  or  napkin.  This  will  serve  to  make 
lettuce  soup,  asparagus  soup,  soup  de  aante, 
&c.  with  herbs. 

BROTH,  MULLAGATAWNY,    OR 


CURRY.  Make  about  two  quarts  of  strong 
veal  broth,  seasoned  with  two  onions,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  salt  and  pepper ;  strain  it, 
and  have  ready  a  chicken,  cut  in  joints  and 
skinned;  put  it  into  the  broth,  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  currv -powder ;  boil  the  chicken 
till  quite  tender,  and  a  little  l>efore  serving, 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  stir  in  a  tea- 
cupful  of  cream.  Serve  boiled  rice  to  eat 
\vith  this  broth. 

BROTH,  RICE  VEAL.  Wash  clean 
six  pounds  of  a  knuckle  of  veal,  and  cut  it 
in  two,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  four  quarts 
of  boiling  water,  half  a  pound  of  rice  well 
washed,  a  little  mace,  white  pepper,  and 
salt,  and  a  handful  of  chopped  parsley;  let 
it  boil  for  two  hours.  Serve  part  of  the 
meat  in  the  tureen  with  the  broth.  The 
thick  part  of  the  knuckle  may  be  sent  up 
as  a  separate  dish,  with  parsley  and  butter 
poured  over  it. 

BRpTH,  WHITE.  Boil  a  fowl,  and 
when  it  is  enough,  take  it  up,  and  put  it  into 
a  dish ;  then  boil  your  cream  with  a  blade  of 
mace,  and  thicken  it  with  eggs ;  then  put  in 
the  marrow  of  one  lieef  bone,  and  take  some 
of  the  broth,  and  mingle  them  togetlier ;  put  to 
it  a  spoonful  of  white  wine,  and  let  it  thick- 
en on  the  fire ;  then  put  the  fowl  hot  out  of 
the  broth,  set  it  on  a  chafing-dish  of  coals, 
and  serve  it. 

BROWN  ROUX,  OR  THICKENING. 

Put  into  a  nicely  tinned  saucepan  alwut  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  melt  it  slowly,  and 
dredge  in  flour  till  it  becomes  like  a  paste, 
carefully  stirring  it  all  the  time,  put  it  for 
a  ffw  minutes  ii]xin  a  quick  fire,  and  then 
return  it  to  where  there  is  less  heat,  and 
stir  it  till  it  assumes  a  light  brown  color, 
when  it  may  be  put  into  a  jar.  These 
thickenings  keep  for  sometime. 

BROWNING,  Is  a  convenient  article 
to  color  those  soups  or  sauces  of  which  it  is 
supposed  their  deep  brown  complexion  de- 
notes the  strength  and  savo'.iriness  of  the 
composition.  Burned  sugar  is  also  a  fa- 
vorite ingredient  with  the  brewers,  who  use 
it  under  the  name  of  "  essontia  bina"  to  col- 
or tlieir  beer :  it  is  also  employed  by  the  bran- 
dy makers,  in  considerable  quantity,  to  color 
brandy;  to  which,  besides  enriching  its  com- 
plexion, it  gives  that  sweetish  taste,  and  ful- 
ness in  the  mouth,  which  custom  has  taught 
brandy  drinkers  to  admire,  and  prefer  to 
the  finest  Cognac  in  its  genuine  state.  When 
employed  for  culinary  purposes,  this  is  some- 
times made  with  strong  gravy,  or  walnut 
catchup.  Those  who  like  a  gout  of  acid 
may  add  a  little  walnut  pickle.  Put  half 
a  pound  of  pounded  lump  sugar,  and.  a  table* 


BUNS 


29 


BUNS 


•poonful  of  water,  into  a  clean  iron  sauce- 
pan, act  it  over  a  glow  fire,  and  keep  stir- 
ring it  with  a  wooden  spoon  till  it  becomes 
a  bright  brown  color,  and  begins  to  smoke; 
thru  add  to  it  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  dilute  it 
by  degrees  with  water,  till  it  is  tlw  thick- 
ness of  soy;  let  it  boil,  take  off  die  scum, 
and  strain  the  liquor  into  bottles,  which 
ma-it  lx>  well  stopped:  if  you  have  not  any 
of  this  by  you,  and  you  wish  to  darken  tin- 
color  of  your  sauce*,  |xmnd  a  lea-s|x»nful 
of  lump  sugar,  and  put  it  into  an  iron  spoon, 
with  as  much  water  as  will  dissolve  it; 
hold  it  o\er  a  quirk  tire  till  it  liecomes  of  a 
very  dark  brown  color;  mix  it  with  the 
soup,  &c.  while  it  is  hot. 

BRUNSWICK  TART.     Su  Tart. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  TO  BOIL. 
Trim  and  wash  them  |>erfectry  clean,  and 
let  them  lie  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Put 
them  on  in  lx>iliug  water,  with  a  little  salt, 
and  boil  them  till  tender.  l>r,iiu  off  tin- 
water,  and  eerve  them  hot. 

BUBBLE  AM)  SQUEAK.  Chop  small 
some  In  1  1  led  white  cabbage;  season  it  with 
pepper  and  salt  .  ami  fry  it  with  a  little  butler  ; 
pepper  and  Itroil  some  slices  of  cold  boiled 
salted  beef;  put  the  fried  cabbage  into  a  dish, 
and  lay  round  it  the  slices  of  broiled  beef, 
and  serve  it  very  hot.  The  beef  does  best 
when  underdone. 

BUNS,  BATH.  Rub  togetlier,  with 
the  hand,  one  pound  of  fine  flour  and  a  half 
a  pound  of  butter;  beat  six  eggs,  and  add 
them  to  the  flour  with  a  table  spoonful  of  good 
yenit  Mix  them  all  together  with  half  a  tea- 
cup full  of  milk  ;  set  it  in  a  warm  place  for 
an  hour;  mix  in  six  ounces  of  sifted  sugar, 
and  a  few  caraway  seeds.  Mould  them  in- 
to buns  with  a  table  spoon  on  a  bilking  plate  ; 
throw  six  or  eight  caraway  comfits  on  each, 
and  lake  them  in  a  hot  oven  alxuit  ton  min- 
utes. These  quantities  should  make  eight* 
een  bung. 

BUNS,  COMMON.  Rub  four  ounces  of 
butter  into  two  pounds  of  flour,  four  ounces 
of  sugar,  a  few  Jamaica  pepper*,  ami  a  few 
carraway  seeds.  Put  a  s|x>onful  or  two  of 
cream  into  a  cup  of  yeast,  and  as  much  good 
milk  an  will  make  the  alxivo  into  a  huhi 
paste;  set  it  by  the  fire  to  rise.  They  will 
bake  quickly  on  tins  ;  you  may  add  nutmeg. 


.NS,  CROSS.  To  the  above  mix- 
ture put  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  ground  all- 
spins  cinnamon  ami  mace,  mixed,  and  when 
half  proved,  press  the  form  of  a  cross  with 
a  tin  mould  in  the  centre,  and  finish  as 
above. 

8* 


BUNS,  PLUM.  To  two  pounds  of  the 
plain  bun  paste,  put  half  a  pound  of  currants, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  candied  orange- 
peel,  cut  into  small  pieces,  half  a  nutmeg 
grated,  half  an  ounce  of  mixed  spice,  such 
as  allspice,  cinnamon,  &c.  Mould  them  in- 
to buns,  jag  them  round  the  edges  with  a 
knife,  and  proceed  as  above. 

BUNS,  PLAIN.    To  four  pounds  of  siA- 
ed  flour  put  one  pound  of  good  moist  sugar ; 
make  a  cavity  in  the  centre,  and  stir  in  a 
gill  of  good  yeast,  a  pint  of  lukewarm  milk, 
with  enough  of  the  flour  to  make  it  the  thick- 
ness of  crca m  ;    cover   it  over,   and  let  it  lie 
two  hours ;  then  melt  to  an  oil  (but  not  hot) 
one  pound  of  butter,  stir  it  into  tile  other  in- 
gredients-, with  enough  warm  milk  to  make 
it  a  soft  paste ;  throw  a  little  flour  over,  and 
let  them  lie  an  hour;   have  readv  a  baking- 
|  platter  rubbed  over  with  butter;  mould  with 
]  the  hand  the   dungh  into   buns,  about  the 
,  size  of  a   la  rue.   tfgl    lay  them  in   rows  full 
i  three  inches  apart  ;  set  them  in  a  uunn  place 
(or  half  an  hour,  or  till  they  liave  risen  to 
double  their  si/e:  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven 
of  a  good  color,  and  wash  them  over  with 
a  biu-h  ilipjx-d  into  milk  when  drawn  from 
the  oven. 

BUNS,  RICHER.      Put  four  pounds  of 

fine  flour  into  a  wooden  bowl;  set  a  sponge 

'  of  it  with  a  gill  of  yeast    and    a    pint    of 

|  wann  niUJj;  then  mix  with  it  one  |xmnd  of 
I  sifted  MijjR-,  one  pound  of  oileil  (Ve.-h  butter, 
!  coriander  seeds,  cinnamon,  and  mace, a  small 
.  quantity  of  each,  pounded  Hue.  Roll  the 
.  paste  into  liuns,  set  them  on  a  baking-plate 

rubbed  with  butter,  put  them  in  a  moderate 
I  oven  to  prove;  then  wash  them  with  a  paste- 

bmsh  dipped  in  wann  milk,  and  bake  of  a 
I  good  color. 

BUNS,  SCOTS  CHRISTMAS.    Take 

four  pounds  of  raisins  stoned,  two  and  a  half 

of  currants  well  cleaned  and  dried,  half  a 

pound  ofalnionds  Manched,  of  candied  orange 

and  lemon-peel  a  quarter  of  a  pound  each, 

cut  small;  of  pounded   cloves,    |x'|>pcr,  and 

U'iuger,  half  an  ounce  each,    tour  pounds  of 

Hour,     and    twenty-two    ounces    of     butter. 

!  Then  nib  the  Imiter  with  the  Hour,  till  well 

1  mixed  togetlier;   add  a  little   warm  water, 

'  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  fresh  gixxd  yeast, 

and  work  it  into  a  light  smooth  paste;   cut 

I  off  nearly  one-third  of  the  paste,  to  form  the 

sheet  or  case,  and  lay  it  aside ;  with  the  rert 

work  up  die  fruit,  sweetmeats,  and  spices; 

make  it  into  a  round  form  like  a  thick  cheese. 

I  Roll  out  the  sheet  of  paste,  lay  the  Itnu  in  the 

centre,  and  gather  it  all  round,  closing  it  at 

the  bottom.  h\  wetting  tlic  edges  of  the  paste, 

i  and  cutting  it  so  as  to  lie  quit.    il.u.     Turn 

|  it  up,  and  run  a  wire  or  small  skewer  through 


BUT 


30 


BUT 


from  the  top  to  the  bottom  every  here  and 
there,  and  prick  the  top  with  a  fork.  Dou- 
ble and  flour  a  sheet  of  gray  (japer,  and  lay 
the  bun  upon  it;  bind  a  piece  round  the 
sides,  also  doubled  and  floured,  to  keep  the 
bun  in  a  proper  shape.  Bake  it  in  a  mod- 
erate oven. 

BUNS,  SEED.  Take  two  pounds  of 
plain  bun  dough,  and  mix  in  one  ounce  of 
caraway  seeds,  butter  the  insides  of  tart- 
pans,  mould  the  dough  into  buns,  and  put 
one  into  each  pan;  set  them  to  rise  in  a 
warm  place,  and  when  sufficiently  proved, 
ice  them  with  the  white  of  an  egg  beat  to  a 
fijoth,  lay  some  pounded  sugar  over  that,  and 
dissolve  it  with  water  splashed  from  the 
icing-brush.  Bake  ten  minutes.  * 

BURDWAN  STEW.  Cut  into  joints  a 
cold  fowl  or  duck,  put  it  into  a  stewpan, 
with  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  a  large  wine-glass 
of  ale,  half  a  one  of  white  wine,  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  a  tea-spooni'ul  of  soy  and 
Cayenne ;  of  mushroom  catsup,  lemon  pickle, 
cucumber  vinegar,  corach  esc.avecke,  a  des- 
sert-spoonful each.  Heat  all  thoroughly  be- 
fore serving. 

BUTTER  BURNT.  Put  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter  into  a  small  frying-pan;  when  it 
becomes  a  dark  brown  color,  add  to  it  a 
table-s|X)onful  and  a  half  of  good  vinegar, 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Obs. — This  is 
used  as  sauce  for  boiled  fish  or  poached 
eggs. 

BURNET  VINEGAR.     See  Vinegar. 
BUTTER  BISCUITS.    See  Biscuits. 
BUTTER  CAKES.     See  Cakes. 

BUTTER,  CLARIFIED.  Put  the  butter 
in  a  nice,  clean  stewpan,  over  a  very  clear, 
slow  lire;  watch  it,  and  when  it  is  melted, 
carefully  skim  off  the  buttermilk,  &c.  which 
will  swim  on  the  top;  let  it  stand  a  minute 
or  two  for  the  impurities  to  sink  to  the  bot- 
tom; then  pour  the  clear  butter  through  a 
sieve  into  a  clean  basin,  leaving  the  sediment 
at  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan.  Obs. — But- 
ter thus  purified  will  be  as  sweet  as  marrow, 
a  very  useful  covering  for  otted  meats,  &c. 
and  for  frying  fish  equal  to  the  finest  Florence 
oil;  for  which  purpose  it  is  commonly  used 
by  Catholics,  and  those  whose  reli<(iniis  ten- 
ets will  not  allow  them  to  eat  viands  fried  in 
animal  oil. 

BUTTER,  FRENCH  MELTED.  Mix, 

in  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  |xnmd  of 
fresh  bulter,  a  table-s|x>oi>ful  of  Hour,  a  little 
salt,  half  a  gill  of  water,  lialf  a  spoonful  c.f 


white  vinegar,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg. 
Put  it  on  the  fire,  stir  it,  and  let  it  thicken, 
but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  lest  it  should  taste 
of  tlie  flour. 

BUTTER,  MELTED.  (1)  Dust  a  little 
flour  over  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  put 
it  into  a  saucepan,  with  about  a  wine-glass 
of  water ;  stir  it  one  way  constantly  till  it  be 
melted,  and  let  it  just  boil:  a  round  wooden 
stick,  is  the  best  thing  to  stir  butter  with  in 
melting.  If  the  butter  is  to  l)e  melted  with 
cream,  use  the  same  proportion  as  of  water, 
but  no  flour  j  stir  it  constantly,  and  heat  it 
thoroughly,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  To  oil 
butter,  cut  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  into 
slices,  put  it  into  a  small  jar,  and  place  it  in 
a  pan  of  boiling  water.  When  oiled,  pour 
it  off  clear  from  the  sediment. 

BUTTER,  MELTED,  (2)  Is  so  simple 
and  easv  to  prepare,  that  it  is  a  matter  of 
general  surprise,  that  what  is  done  so  often, 
is  so  seldom  done  right.  It  is  spoiled  nine 
times  out  of  ten,  more  from  idleness  than  from 
ignorance,  and  rather  because  the  cook  won't 
than  because  she  can't  do  it;  which  can  on- 
ly be  the  case  when  housekeepers  will  not 
allow  butter  to  do  it  with.  Good  melted 
butter  cannot  be  made  with  mere  flour  and 
water ;  there  must  be  a  full  and  proper  pro- 
portion of  butter.  As  it  must  be  always  on 
the  table,  and  is  the  foundation  of  almost  all 
our  sauces,  we  have,  » 

Melted  butter  and  oysters, 

parsley, 

— -^—— — ^—  anchovies, 


shrimps, 

lobsters, 

capers,  &c.  &c.  &c. 

I  have  tried  every  way  of  making  it;  and  I 
trust,    that    I    have  written    a  receipt,  (3) 
which,  if  the  cook    will    carefully   observe, 
she  will  constantly  succeed   in  ifivinij  satis- 
faclion.      In  the  quantities    of    the    various 
sauces  I  have  ordered.  1   have  had   in  view 
the  providing  for  a    family  of  half  a  dozen 
moderate  people.   Never  [xmrsance  o\er  meat 
or  even  put  it  into  the  di.-h;   however  well 
made,  some  of  the   companx   may  have  an 
antipathy  to   it;    tas'.cs   iin-   as   dillerent   as 
fiiees:  moreover,  if  it  is  sent  up  separate  in  a 
boat,  it  will  keep  hot  longer,  iiiid  what  is  left 
may  be  put  by  for  another  time,  or  used  for 
another  purpo.-c. 

BUTTER,  MELTED.  (3)  Keep  a  pint 
stew  pan;  (in-  this  purpose  only.  Cut  two 
ounces  of  bulter  into  little  bir^-,  that  it  may 
mi-It  more  easily,  and  mix  uii-iv  readiK  ;  put 
it  into  the  sk'wpan  with  a  lai  ,';•  tea-spoon- 
ful (t.  e.  alxnit  three  drachms)  of  flour, 
(some  ['refer  arrow-root,  or  potato  starch) 


CAB 


31 


CAKE 


and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  milk.  When 
thoroughly  mixed,  add  six  table-spoonfuls 
of  water;  hold  it  over  the  fire,  and  shake  it 
round  every  minute  (all  the  while  the  same 
way),  till  it  just  Ix-s^ins  to  simmer;  then  let 
it  stand  quietly  and  boil  up.  It  should  )«•  of 
the  thickness  of  good  cream.  N.  B. — Two 
table-spoonfuls  of  mushroom  catchup,  instead 
of  the  milk,  will  make  as  good  mushroom 
sauce  as  need  be,  and  is  a  sii|x-rlativc  accom- 
jKiiiinu-nt  to  either  fish,  tle.-h,  or  fowl. 
Obi. — This  is  the  best  way  of  preparing 
melted  butter;  milk  mixes  with  the  butter 
much  more  easily  and  more  int  mutely  than 
water  alone  can  be  made  to  do.  This  is 
of  proper  thickness  to  be  mixed  at  table 
with  flavouring  essences,  anchovy,  mush- 
room, or  cavice,  &c.  If  in:  li-  i.ic.cly  t.i 
pour  over  vegetables,  add  a  little  more  milk 
to  it.  X.  1$. — If  the  butter  oils,  put  a 
spoonful  of  cold  water  to  it,  and  stir  it  with 
a  spoon;  if  it  is  very  murh  oiled,  it  must 
be  |  M  Hired  Ixickwards,  and  forwards  from 
tlie  stew|V»n  to  the  sancel>out  till  it  is  ri;ht 
again.  MKM. — .Melteil  Ixjtler  mad.-  to  \x: 
mixed  with  flavouring  essences,  catchaps, 
&tr.  should  )>e  of  the  thickness  of  light  bat- 
ter, tluit  it  may  adhere  to  tlie  fish,  &c. 

1U  T  TKR,  OILED.  Put  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butler  into  a  saucepan ;  set  it  at  a  dis- 
tance from  th<-  lire,  so  that  it  may  melt  grad- 
ually, till  it  comes  to  an  oil;  and  pour  it  od 
quietly  from  the  dregs.  Ob». — This  will 
supply  the  place  of  olive  oil ;  and  by  some  is 
preferred  to  it  either  for  salads  or  frying. 

BUTTER  SAUCE.     See  Sauce. 


c. 


CABBAGE  AND  CHEESE  SOUP. 
See  Soup. 

CABBAGE,  TO  STEW.  Wash  a  cab- 
bage well,  slice  it  as  for  pickling,  and  put  it 
into  a  steupan,  with  half  a  tea-cupful  of 
Port  wine,  and  a  bit  of  butter  kneaded  in 
flour,  a  linle  salt  ami  [x-pper;  stir  it  till  tlie 
butter  is  melted  :  co\er  the  pan,  and  let  it  stew 
a  little,  Inn  not  to  become  too  left;  as  it  eats 

.  p;  a  id  a  tahlr-s|toonful  of 
vinegar,  give  it  one  lx>il,  and  serve  it  hot. 
Tlie  w  ine  may  lie  omitted. 

(•\l',I'.A(ii:,TO  PICKLE.  Choose  two 
middling-sized,  well-colored,  and  firm  red 
cabbages,  shrrd  diem  MTV  finely,  first  pulling 
off  the  out.- ide  leaves;  mix  with  them  nearly 
half  a  pi.ii'id  nf  salt,  tie  it  up  in  a  thin  doth, 
and  let  it  haiiu  for  twelve  hours ;  then  put  it 
into  small  jar.-,  and  pour  over  it  cold  vinegar 


that  has  been  boiled  with  a  few  barberries  in 
it;  tie  the  jar  over  closely  with  bladder;  or 
boil,  in  a  quart  of  vinegar,  tlirec  bits  of  gin- 
ger, half  an  ounce  of  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  cloves.  When  cold,  pour  it  over 
tlie  red  cabbage. 

CAKES.    PREPARATORY  REMARKS. 

The  currants  and  raisins  should  be  prepared 
as  directed  under  the  article  headed,  Pud- 
dings and  I'i-s,  and  tlie  flour  dried  before 
the  fire  on  a  large  sheet  of  white  paper,  then 
sifted  and  weighed.  Almonds  should  be 
blanched  by  pouring  hot  water  over  them, 
and,  after  standing  some  minutes,  taking  off 
th.1  .-kin,  then  throwing  them  into  rose  or 
c  >ld  xvat.T.  When  not  pounded,  they  should 
be.  cut  lengthwise  into  thin  bits.  Sugar 
should  be  roughly  pounded,  rolled  with  a 
bottle  ii|»n  white  paper,and  then  sifted.  All 
spices,  after  beinj  well  dried  at  tlie  fire,  should 
li.-  finely  (xiunded  and  sifted.  Lemon  and 
orange-|>eel  must  be  pared  very  thin,  and 
pounded  with  a  little  sugar.  The  butter, 
after  being  weighed,  should  be  laid  into  cold 
water,  or  washed  in  rose  water,  and  if  salt, 
be  well  washed  in  several  waters.  The 
yolks  and  whites,  of  eggs  should  lie  separately 
and  long  beaten,  then  strained;  two  whisks 
should  be  kept  exclusively  for  that  pur- 
pose, as  tlie  whites  especially  require  to  be 
managed  with  tlie  greatest  care.  A  horn 
spoon  should  be  used  for  mixing  those  cakes 
which  are  not  directed  to  be  beaten  with  the 
hand.  To  make  cakes  light,  salvolatile,  or 
smelling  salts,  may  be  added  immediately 
before  putting  them  into  the  oven,  allowing, 
to  a  sponge  cake,  made  of  one  pound  of  flour, 
one  tca-epoonfnl ;  and  two  or  three  to  a  large 
plum  cake.  Cheese  cakes,  queen  cakes, 
sponge  biscuits,  and  small  sponge  cakes,  re- 
quire a  quick  oven  till  they  have  risen ;  after- 
wards tlie  beat  should  be  more  moderate. 
Plum,  seed  cakes,  and  all  large  kinds,  must  be 
well  soaked,  and  therefore  do  not  require  a 
brisk  oven.  To  preserve  their  color,  a  sheet  of 
white  piper  is  put  over  them,  and  after  they 
have  risen  and  become  firm,  they  are  turned 
round.  To  ascertain  if  a  large  cake  be 
sufficiently  done,  a  broad  bladed  knife  is 
plunged  into  the  centre  of  it,  and  if  dry  and 
clean  when  drawn  out,  file  cake  is  baked; 
1  jut  if  anything  adheres  to  tlie  blade,  it  must 
in -taut  ly  lie  returned  to  the  oven,  and  the 
door  closed.  When  the  oven  is  too  hot,  it 
is  better  to  lessen  tlie  fire  than  to  open  the 
door. 

C  VK*K.  Take  two  pounds  and  a  half  of 
dried  and  sifted  flour,  tlie  same  of  well  clean- 
ed and  dried  currants,  two  |xmnds  of  fresh 
butter,  two  of  finely -|x>unded  and  silted  loaf 
sugar,  a  nutmeg  grated,  a  lea-spoonful  of 
pounded  cinnamon,  one  ounce  of  citron  and 


CAKE 


32 


CAKE 


candied  orange-peel,  cut  small,  the  yolks  of 
sixteen,  and  the  whites  of  ten  eggs,  beaten 
separately;  then  with  the  hand  beat  the 
butter  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  sugar,  then 
the  eggs  by  degrees,  and  the  flour  in  the 
same  way,  and  then  the  currants,  sweetmeats, 
and  spice,  one  glass  of  orange-flower  water, 
and  one  of  brandy.  Butter  a  tin  pan,  line  it 
with  white  paper  buttered,  put  in  die  cake, 
and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  four  hours. 

CAKE,  ALMOND.  Blanch  half  a  pound 
of  sweet,  and  three  ounces  of  bitter  almonds ; 
pound  them  to  a  paste  in  a  mortar  with 
orange-flower  water;  add  half  a  pound  of 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  a  little  brandy;  whisk 
separately,  for  half  an  hour,  the  whites  and 
yolks  of  twenty  eggs,  add  the  yolks  to  the 
almonds  and  sugar,  and  then  stir  in  die  whites, 
and  beat  them  all  well  together.  Butter  a 
tin  pan,  sift  bread  raspings  over  it,  put  the 
cake  into  it,  over  the  top  of  which  strew  sifted 
loaf  sugar.  Bake  it  in  a  quick  oven  for 
half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

CAKES,   ALMOND   SMALL.       One 

pound  of  butter  beaten  to  a  cream,  half  a 
pound  of  finely-pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
half  a  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  blanclied  sweet  almond* 
cut  into  thin  small  bits,  one  well-beaten  egg, 
and  a  little  rose  water,  must  be  mixed  well 
together,  and  with  a  spoon  dropped  upon 
wafer  paper  or  tins,  and  then  baked. 

CAKE,  ALMOND.  (1)  Take  eight 
ounces  of  Jordan  and  one  ounce  of  bitter  al- 
monds, blanch  and  pound  them  very  fine; 
then  beat  in  with  the  almonds  die  yolks  of 
eight  eggs,  and  whisk  up  die  whites  to  a 
solid  froth.  Then  take  eight  table-spoonfuls 
of  sifted  .sugar,  live  spoonfuls  of  fine  flour,  a 
small  quantity  of  grated  lemon-peel  and 
pounded  cinnamon,  and  mix  all  die  ingre- 
dients. Hub  die  inside  of  a  mould  with 
fresh  butter,  (ill  it  with  die  mixture  and  bake 
it  of  a  light  color. 

CAKE,  ALMOND.  (2)  Put  a  gill  of 
flour  upon  a  pie-lxiard,  and  make  a  hole 
in  die  middle  to  receive  a  piece  of  butter  the 
size  of  an  egg,  a  little  salt,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  (iiie  sugar,  and  six  ounces  of  sweet 
almonds  ]x>undud  very  fine:  knead  die  whole, 
and  form  it  into  a  cake ;  bake,  and  glaze  it 
with  sugar  and  a  hot  salamander. 

CAKE,  ALMOND.  (3)  Weigh  diree 
OUSTS  in  their  shells,  take  the  same  weight  of 
ftiur,  of  the  finest  fresh  butter,  and  of  grated 
loaf  -:i^ar.  Pound  with  these  ingredients 
thre£  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  blanched;  add 
a  little  grated  lenion-|xtl,  or  orange-flower 
water,  and  die  whites  and  yolks  of  diree 


eggs.  Continue  pounding  till  die  whole 
forms  a  smooth  paste.  Butter  the  bottom 
of  a  baking-pan,  and  put  in  the  cake  widi 
fire  above  and  below.  This  cake  may  be 
served  either  hot  or  cold,  widi  grated  sugar 
over  it. 

CAKES,  ANISEED.  Put  in  an  earthen 
pan  eight  ounces  of  sugar  pounded,  and 
die  yolks  often  eggs ;  stir  them  togetner  with 
a  wooden  spoon  for  lialf  an  hour.  In  the 
meantime  have  the  whites  of  your  eggs 
whipped  to  a  diick  snow,  and  then  pour  in 
the  sugar  and  yolks.  When  thoroughly 
mixed,  add  an  ounce  of  good  aniseed,  pre- 
viously washed  and  dried,  and  ten  ounces  of 
flour;  stir  the  whole  gently,  and  then  with  a 
spoon  lay  it  on  white  pa|ier  in  eakes  alxuit 
die  size  of  a  crown-piece ;  sprinkle  diem  widi 
fine  sugar,  and  l>ake.  Remove  them  from 
the  paper,  while  hot,  widi  a  knife. 

CAKE,  APPLE.  Pare  and  core  a  doz- 
en apples,  and  make  them  into  marmalade, 
with  the  zeite  of  a  lemon  and  a  little  cinna- 
mon, a'id  pass  them  through  a  bolting;  put 
diem  into  u  stewpan,  with  a  spoonful  of 
potato  ilonr,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  two 
ounces  of  butter;  dry  it  over  the  fire,  and 
when  cold  add  tn  it  six  e<igs,  stir  them  well 
in,  and  having  buttered  a  mould,  pour  your 
piepntation  into  it,  and  bake  it  in  a  slow 
oven ;  when  done,  turn  it  in  a  dish  and 
serve  it. 

CAKE,  ABERDEEN  CRULLA.    Beat 

to  a  cream  a  quarter  ot "a  pound  ol  fresh  butter, 
and  mix  with  it  the  same  quantity  of  pound- 
ed and  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  four  well-l>eaten 
eggs;  add  flour  till  thick  enough  to  roll  out; 
cut  the  paste  into  oblong  pieces  about  four 
or  five  inches  in  length  ;  with  a  paste  cutter, 
divide  the  centre  into  three  or  four  strips; 
wet  die  edges,  and  plait  one  bar  over  die 
Other,  M  as  to  meet  in  the  centre;  dirow 
diem  into  boiling  lard,  or  clarified  suet; 
when  fried  of  a  light  brown,  drain  them 
before  the  fire,  and  serve  them  in  a  napkin, 
widi  or  without  grated  loaf  sugar  sirewed 
over  them. 

CAKE,  BANBURY.  Set  a  sponge  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  thick  yeast,  a  gill  of 
warm  milk,  and  a  pound  of  ilonr;  when  it 
has  worked  a  little,  mix  widi  it  half  a  pound 
of  currants,  washed  and  picked,  half  a 
pound  of  candied  orange  and  lemon  peel  cut 
small,  one  ounce  of  spice,  such  as  ground 
cinnamon,  allspice,  ginger,  and  grated  nut- 
meg: mix  the  whole  together  with  half  a 
pound  of  honey ;  roll  out  pull"  paste  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  into  rounds  with  a 
cutter,  about  four  inches  over,  lay  on  each 
widi  a  spoon  a  small  quantity  of  die  mixture; 


CAKE 


33 


CAKE 


close  it  round  with  the  fingers  in  the  form 
of  an  oval ;  place  the  join  underneath  ;  press 
it  flat  with  the  hand;  sift  sugar  over  it,  and 
bake  them  on  a  plate  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

CAKES,  BATH  BREAKFAST.  Rub 
into  two  pounds  of  flour  half  a  pound  of  but- 
ter, and  mix  with  il  one  pint  of  milk  a  little 
warmed,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  fresh  yeast, 
four  well-beaten  eggs,  and  a  tea-s|xxmlul  of 
salt;  co\er  it,  and  let  it  stand  before  the  fire 
to  rise  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  make 
it  into  thick  cakes  about  the  size  of  the 
inside  of  a  dinner  plate;  bake  iln-m  in  a 
quick  o\en,  then  cut  them  into  three,  that 
the  middle  slice,  as  also  the  top  and  bottom 
may  be  well  buttered.  Serve  tltem  very  hot. 

CAKE,   BAIRN  BRACK.     To  three 

pounds  of  dried  flour  allow  one  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  one  |x>imd  of  good  brown  sugar, 
two  ounces  of  caraway  seede,  eight  well- 
beateu  fggs,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  fresh 
yeast,  and  some  grated  nutmeg  ;  dissolve  the 
butter  in  a  pint  of  milk,  so  as  to  make  the 
whole  into  a  dough,  not  very  stiff";  work  it 
well;  cover  it  u  iih  a  cloth,  and  set  it  before 
the  fire  to  rise;  when  well  risen,  bake  it  in 
a  buttered  tin.  When  it  becomes  dry,  it 
may  be  toasted  and  eaten  with  butter. 

CAKES,  BONNET.  Boil  in  half  a 
pint  of  water,  for  ten  minutes,  a  bit  of  cin- 
namon, and  of  lemon-peel ;  strain,  and  mix  it 
with  thru-  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir 
it  over  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes ;  add 
a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  when 
cold,  ink  in  the  U-alen  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a 
little  salt  ami  pepp-r  ;  I* -at  it  well,  drop  a 
dcMcrt  i  |n  infill  of  the  mixture  into  boiling 
lard,  then  drain  them  upon  tile  back  of  a 
i  when  served,  throw  over  pounded 
loaf  sugar.  Instead  of  the  salt  and  pepper,  a 
little  pre.-ei\e  max  Ix:  drooped  upon  each, 
U-lore  tlie  sugar  is  thrown  over. 

CAKK.  r.AB A.  Take  the  fourth  part  of 
two  pounds  of  (lour,  lay  it  on  your  paste- 
board or  sL'.h,  and  having  made  a  hole  in 
the  middle  of  it,  put  in  half  an  ounce  of 
yeast,  work  it  up  with  one  hand,  whilst  with 
the  oilier  you  jxiir  in  w;irm  water;  make  it 
into  ft  rather  soft  paste,  put  into  a  wooden 
bowl,  first  pricking  il  in  a  few  places,  cover 
it  with  a  i -loth  and  let  it  stand.  When  it 
has  risen  well,  take  the  remainder  of  the 
flour,  and  spread  it  on  the  first  made  paste ; 
mix  them  well  toother,  adding  to  them 
half  an  ounce  of  salt,  six  eggs,  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  half  a  pound  of  atoned  raising, 
two  ounces  of  currants,  half  a  glass  of  Mal- 
aga wine,  and  a  little  saffron  in  (xiwder. 
Work  them  up  together  thoroughly,  roll  it 
i>nt  two  or  three  times,  and  then  let  it  stand 


for  six  hours;  then  having  buttered  a  mould, 
pour  in  your  preparation  and  bake  it. 

CAKE,  BOLAR.  One  pound  of  flora 
dried  in  a  slow  oven,  two  spoonfuls  of  yeast, 
some  almond  milk,  and  water  to  mix  for  a 
sponge ;  when  raised,  beat  up  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  clarified  butter,  three  eggs,  and 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  well-beat- 
en till  the  spoon  conies  clean  away;  then 
add  cinnamon  powder,  candied  orange  and 
lemon.  Bake  in  earthen  basins,  well  but- 
tered ;  keep  it  before  the  fire  till  put  in  the 
oven. 

CAKE,  BOLAR.  When  the  sponge  is 
beat,  as  for  the  last,  instead  of  mixing  the 
sugar,  il  is  rolled  in  the  sugar  and  cinnamon. 

CAKE,  DUTCH  BOLAR.  Done,  as 
above,  without  sugar ;  then  prick  holes  with 
a  sharp  pointed  knife,  and  while  it  is  hot 
pour  in  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  clarified 
sugar,  flavored  with  cinnamon  or  orange- 
flower.  Almonds  and  sweetmeats  are  pre- 
viously put  in  the  cake.  Ornament  your 
cake  with  harlequin  sugar-plums.  This  was 
a  favorite  cake  of  Queen  Charlotte. 

CAKE,  BREAD.  Take  the  quantity 
of  a  quartern  loaf  from  the  dough  when  mak- 
ing white  bread,  and  knead  well  into  it  two 
ounces  of  butter,  two  of  Lisbon  sugar,  and 
eight  of  currants.  Warm  the  butler  in  a 
tea-cupful  of  good  milk.  By  the  addition 
of  an  ounce  of  batter,  or  sugar,  or  an  egg  or 
two,  you  may  make  the  cake  better.  A 
tea-cupful  of  raw  cream  improves  it  much. 
It  Is  best  to  bake  it  in  a  pan,  rather  than  as 
a  loaf,  the  outside  )>cing  less  bard. 

CAKE,  BRIDE.  Take  four  pounds  of 
fine  flour  well  dried,  four  pounds  of  fresh 
butter,  two  pounds  of  loaf  sugar,  pounded 
and  sifted  fine,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
mace,  and  the  same  quantity  of  nutmegs; 
to  every  pound  of  flour  put  eight  eggs ;  wash 
and  pick  four  pounds  of  currants,  and  dry 
tii' -in  I*-!'. ire  the  fire;  blanch  a  pound  of 
s«e«t  almonds,  and  cut  them  lengthways, 
very  thin,  a  pound  of  citron,  a  pound  of 
candied  orange,  a  pound  of  candied  lemon, 
and  half  a  pint  of  brandy ;  first  work  the 
Imtter  with  your  hand  to  a  cream,  then 
heat  in  your  sugar  a  quarter  of  an  hour ; 
beat  the  whites  of  vour  eggs  to  a  very  strong 
froth ;  mix  them  with  your  sugar  and  but- 
ter ;  beat  the  yolks  half  an  hour,  at  least, 
and  mix  them  with  your  cake;  then  put  in 
your  (lour,  mare,  and  nutmeg ;  keep  beating 
it  till  the  oven  is  ready  ;  put  in  your  brandy, 
and  beat  the  currants  and  almonds  lightly 
in ;  tie  three  glieets  of  paper  round  the  bot- 
tom of  your  hoop  to  keep  it  from  running 


CAKE 


34 


CAKE 


out ;  nib  it  well  with  butter,  put  in  your 
cake,  and  the  sweetmeats  in  three  lays,  w  itli 
cake  between  every  lay;  after  it  is  risen 
and  cblored,  cover  it  with  paper  before  your 
oven  is  stopped  up;  it  will  take  three  hours 
baking. 

CAKE,  BRIE.  Take  some  rich  cheese, 
knead  it  with  a  pint  and  half  of  flour,  three 
quarters  of  a  |xmnd  of  butter,  and  a  little 
salt;  moisten  it  with  five  or  six  eggs  beaten 
up;  when  it  is  well  kneaded,  let  it  stand 
for  an  hour ;  then  form  your  cake  and  bake 
as  usual. 

CAKES,  BENTON-TEA.  Rub  into 
a  pound  of  flour,  six  ounces  of  butter,  and 
three  spoonfuls  of  yeast,  and  make  into  a 
paste  with  new  milk;  make  into  biscuits, 
and  prick  them  with  a  clean  fork. 

CAKES,  BUTTER.  Beat  a  dish  of 
butter  with  your  hands  to  a  cream,  add  two 
pounds  of  sifted  sugar,  three  pounds  of  dried 
flour,  and  twenty-four  eggs,  leave  out  half 
the  whites,  and  then  teat  all  together  for  an 
hour;  when  you  are  going  to  put  it  in  die 
oven  add  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace  and 
a  nutmeg,  a  little  sack  and  brandy,  seeds 
and  currants,  if  you  think  proper. 

CAKE,  WITHOUT  BUTTER.  Take 
the  weight  of  three  eggs  in  sugar,  and  the 
weight  of  two  in  flour ;  when  the  five  eggs  are 
well  beaten,  gradually  add  the  sugar,  and 
then  the  flour,  with  a  little  grated  lemon- 
peel,  or  a  few  caraway  seeds.  Bake  it  in 
a  tin  mould,  in  rather  a  quick  oven. 

CAKES,  CHESHIRE.  Beat  for  half 
an  hour  the  yolks  of  eight,  and  the  whites 
of  five  eggs ;  add  half  a  pound  of  pounded 
and  sifted  loaf  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  and  the  grated 
peel  of  a  small  lemon ;  beat  all  well  togeth- 
er, and  bake  it  in  a  floured  tin. 

CAKES,  CARAWAY.  (1)  Three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
butter  well  rubbed  into  it,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  some  caraway 
seeds ;  make  these  into  a  stiff  paste  with  a 
little  cold  water,  roll  it  out  two  or  three 
times,  cut  it  into  round  cakes,  prick  them, 
and  bake  them  upon  floured  tins.  For  a 
change,  currants  may  be  substituted  for  the 
caraway  seeds. 

CAKES,  CARAWAY.  (2)  Mix  half 
a  pound  of  sifted  loaf  sugar  with  a  pound 
of  flour  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
add  some  caraway  seeds;  make  it  into  a 
stiff  paste,  with  three  well-beaten  eggs,  and 
3  little  rose  water ;  roll  it  out  thin,  cut  it 


into  round  cakes,  prick  them  with  a  fork, 
and  bake  them  upon  floured  tins  in  a  quick 


CAKES,  CURD  CHEESE.  Boil,  in 
two  quarts  of  cream,  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  four,  and  the  whites  of  five  eggs;  drain 
oft"  the  whey  gently,  and  mix  with  the  curd 
grated  nutmeg,  pounded  cinnamon,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  best  rose  water,  as  much 
white  wine,  four  ounces  of  pounded  loaf  su- 
gar, the  same  quantity  of  butter  beaten  to  a 
cream,  and  of  pounded  biscuit.  Mix  all 
these  ingredients  well  together,  and  stir  in 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  currants.  Bake  h 
in  a  large  tin,  or  in  patty-pans  lined  with 
paste  ;  or  it  may  be  baked  in  a  dish  previ- 
ously buttered. 

CAKES,  CURRANT.  (1)  Take 
two  pounds  of  fine  flour,  one  pound  and  a 
half  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  five  or  six  eggs, 
one  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  six  spoonfuls 
of  white  wine,  three  spoonfuls  of  caraway 
seeds,  two  nutmegs',  and  one  pound  of  cur- 
rants; beat  up  the  butter  with  your  hand 
till  it  is  very  thin  ;  dry  the  flour  well  ;  put  in 
the  caraway  seeds,  and  nutmegs,  finely  grat- 
ed; afterwards  put  them  all  into  your  bat- 
ter, with  the  eirgs,  white  wine,  and  rose 
water;  mingle  them  well  together;  put  in 
the  currants  ;  let  your  oven  be  pretty  hot, 
and  as  soon  as  they  are  colored  they  will  be 
sufficiently  done. 

CAKES,  CURRANT.  (2)  Take  half  a 
pound  of  cleaned  and  dried  currants,  the 
same  quantity  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  pounded  sugar,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  four 
yolks,  and  three  whites  of  eggs,  both  well 
beaten,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg  or  pound- 
ed cinnamon;  then  beat  the  butter  to  a 
cream;  add  the  sugar,  and  then  the  eggs 
and  the  flour;  beat  these  well  for  twenty 
minutes,  mix  in  the  currants  and  the  grated 
nutmeg.  Drop  the  cakes  in  a  round  form 
upon  buttered  paper,  or  bake  them  in  small 
tins  in  a  quick  oven. 

CAKES,  CURRANT.  (3)  Take  six 
ounces  of  currants,  the  same  quantity  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  little  grated  nutmeg, 
half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour;  nib  the 
butter  with  the  flour  till  they  be  well  mixed, 
then  add  the  other  ingredients,  and  bind 
them  with  three  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  rose  or  orange- 
flower  water;  roll  it  out,  and  cut  it  into 
round  cakes  with  the  top  of  a  wine  glass  or 


CAKE,  COMMON.     (1)    Take 


CAKE 


35 


CAKE 


quart.-  of  flour,  mix  with  it  threr-qnarters 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  tea-cupful  of  fresh 
yeast,  one  pint  of  milk,  nine  well-beaten 
Ciiirs,  two  |x)iinils  of  well-cleaned  currants, 
our  jxmiicl  and  a  h;ilf  of  jfood  brown  sugar, 
the  grated  |>eel  of  a  lemon,  and  one  nutmeg; 
a  glass  of  brandy  must  be  stirred  in  just  be- 
fore it  IK'  put  into  a  buttered  tin.  Bake  it 
for  two  hours  or  more. 

CAKE,  COMMON.  (2)  Rub  into  one 
pound  of  llour  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
good  butter;  mix,  with  two  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  fresh  yeast,  ;is 
much  warm  milk  as  will  make  the  flour  into 
a  very  thick  batter.  Let  this  remain  near 
the  tii,..  oncred  with  a  cloth  for  an  hour, 
then  mix  into  it  six  ounces  of  good  brown 
sugar,  and  nine  ounces  of  well-cleaned  and 
dried  currants ;  let  it  stand  again  for  half 
an  hour,  and  bake  it  in  a  buttered  tin  for 
an  hour. 

CAKE,  COMMON*.  (3)  One  pound  and 
a  lialf  uf  (lour,  one  pound  of  good  brown  su- 
gar, eij,'lit  well-beaten  eggs,  and  one  ounce 
of  cam  way  seeds,  are  to  be  mixed  together; 
then  add  of  troli  yeast,  milk,  and  of  water, 
one  tal)le-s|XMi;it'ul  ouch.  Let  it  stand  a  lit- 
tle  time,  and  bake  it  in  a  floured  tin. 

CAKES,  COLD  HARBOR.     Dissolve 

one  ounce  of  butter  in  as  much  milk  warmed 
as  will  make  fmr  pound^  of  flour  into  a  stiff 
paste;  alvcit  two  pints  may  be  required; 
add  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  one  egg 
beaten  together  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
yeast;  mix  it  all  well,  cover  it  with  a 
cloth,  and  let  it  remain  before  the  fire  for 
half  an  hour;  then  make  it  into  small 
round  balls,  and  bake  them  upon  tins  in  a 
quick  oven. 

C\KF..S,  CREAM.  (1)  Put  a  pound  of 
flour  upon  a  pie-Niard;  make  a  hole  in  the 
middle,  put  in  half  a  pint  of  clotted  cream, 
and  a  little  salt;  mix  the  paste  lightly,  let 
it  stand  1'ir  half  an  hour,  then  add  half  a 
pound  of  butter;  roll  it  -out,  five  times,  the 
same  as  puff  paste,  and  form  it  into  small 
cakes;  gild  th<-m  with  the  yolk  of  egg,  and 
bake  in  an  oven. 

CAKES,   CREAM.       (2)      Sift  some 

double-relined   sugar;    boat  the   whites  of 

S-CM-H  or   eiijht    v.«>f*;    shake    in    as   many 

It  of  the  sugar;  grate  in  the  rind  of 

a  laix'e  li-mou;   drop  tile  froth  on  n  paper, 

laid  on  tin,  in   lumps  at  a   distance;   sift  a 

<  T  them  :  set  them  in  a 

moderate  oven;  the  froth  will  rise;  just 
color  them;  yon  may  put  raspberry  jam, 
and  stick  two  bottoms  together;  put  them 
in  a  cool  oven  to  dry 


CAKES,  CREAM.  (3)  Put  into,  a 
stew|Kin,  two  jrla-ises  of  cream,  a  quarter  of 
a  |x>und  of  butter,  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  cut 
small,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  (xiwdcr-gugar, 
and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Set  it  on  the.  lire,  and 
when  it  Ix-^ins  to  boil,  put  it  by  tin 
the  stove;  take  out  the  leiiM>n-|>eel,  and  add, 
by  degrees,  as  iit'iclrtlour  as  the  liquid  will 
bear;  keep  stirring  it  constantly,  and  place 
it  on  the  fire  again,  for  five  minutes,  then 
pour  it  into  a  basin  ;  add  to  it,  one  by  one, 
as  many  e«;^s  as  will  make  the  |>a-l''  Mick 
to  the  fingers  ;  put  the  paste  on  a  .-lab,  and 
make  your  cakes  of  a  round  form. 

CAKES,  CANAPES.  Roll  out  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  keeping  it 
long  and  narrow;  do  not  let  it  !>e  more  than 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  about  three 
inches  wide.  Cut  the  paste  across  with  a 
sharp  knife,  in  slips  three-eights  of  an  inch 
in  width,  and  place  them  on  the  cut  side,  on 
a  baking-plate,  each  two  inches  apart;  bake 
them  in  a  hut  oven,  and  when  nicely  colored, 
sprinkle  them  with  sugar,  and  gla/e  tlwm. 
When  done,  remove  diem  from  t.  •  plate; 
and  just  before  they  are  served,  mask  them 
with  apricot  marmalade,  or  any  other  you 

nlike  better,  and  arrange  them  oil  your 
en  couronne. 

CAKES,  CURD.  Take  a  quart  of 
curds,  ei;;lit  e^s,  leaving  out  fintr  whites; 
put  in  sugar,  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  little 
flour;  mix  these  well  togetner,  heat  butter, 
in  a  frying-pan,  drop  them  in,  and  fry  like 
fritters. 

CAKES,  DERBY  OR  SHORT.    Rub 

in  with  the  hand  one  pound  of  butter  into 
two  pounds  of  sifted  flour;  put  one  pound 
of  currants,  one  pound  of  good  moist  s,i<;ar, 
and  one  egg;  mix  all  together  with  half 
a  pint  of  milk:  roll  it  out  thin,  and  cut  them 
into  round  cakes  with  a  cutter;  lay  them  on 
a  clean  baking-plate,  and  put  them  into  a 
middling-heated  oven  for  about  five  minutes. 

CAKE,  DIET  BREAD.  Boil,  in  half 
a  pint  of  water,  one  pound  and  a  half  of 
lump  sugar;  have  ready  one  pint  of  eggs, 
three  parts  yolk?,  in  a  pan ;  pour  in  the  su- 
U'ar,  and  whisk  it  quick  till  cokl,  or  about 
a  quarter  of  an  In  Kir;  then  Ftir  in  two 
pounds  of  sifted  flour ;  case  the  inside  of 
square  tins  with  while  IKIJXT;  till  them  three 
ports  full;  sift  a  little  sugar  over,  and  bake 
it  in  a  warm  oven,  and  while  hot  remove 
i IK-HI  from  (In-  moulds. 

(  \KF..  DAII'IIINE.  Beat  separate- 
ly the  whites  and  yolks  of  twenty  eggs;  to 
the  yolks  add  a  pound  of  pounded^  am!  .-ifted 
loaf  sugar,  the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon,  and 


CAKE 


36 


two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  orange-flower 
water;  then  stir  in  tlie  whites,  and  lightly 
mix  in  half  a  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  lie  mr. 
Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CAKE,  FASHION.  Mix  a  handftJ  of 
flour  with  a  pint  of  good  cream,  half  a  pound 
of  beef  suet,  melted  and  sifted,  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  |x>wder-sugar,  half  a  pound  of 
raisins,  stoned  and  chopped,  dried  flowers  of 
orange,  a  glass  of  brandy,  a  little  coriander, 
and  salt ;  bake  it  as  all  other  cakes,  about  an 
hour,  and  glaze  or  garnish  it. 

CAKE,  FOURRES.  Make  a  puff  paste, 
form  it  into  two  equal  parts  the  size  of  the 
dish  in  which  you  mean  to  place  your  cake, 
and  the  thickness  of  two  crowns  each;  then 
take  one  of  the  cakes  and  put  upon  it  some 
sweetmeats,  leaving  about  an  inch,  as  a 
border,  all  round;  wet  it  with  water  and 
place  the  other  cake  upon  it,  draw  up  the 
edges  carefully  with  your  fingers ;  gild  them 
with  the  yolk  of  egg,  and  bake  them  in  an 
oven. 

In 

CAKE,  FRENCH.  Twelve  eggs,  the 
yolks  and  whites  beaten  well  and  separately, 
one  pound  of  pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
the  grated  peel  of  a  large  lemon,  half  a  pound 
of  sifted  and  dried  flour,  the  same  weight  of 
sifted  and  dried  ground  rice,  four  ounces  of 
sweet,  and  one  of  bitter  almonds,  pounded  in 
a  mortar  together,  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
orange-flower  water.  Mix  all  these  ingre- 
djenLs  gradually,  and  beat  them  well.  Pa- 
per the  pan,  and  bake  the  cake  for  one  hour. 

CAKE,  FAMILY.  Take  rice  and 
flour,  of  each  six  ounces,  the  yolks  and 
whites  offtine  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  lump 
sugar,  [xninded  and  sifted,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  caraway  seeds.  Having  beaten  this  one 
hour,  bake  it  for  the  same  time  in  a  quick 
oven.  This  is  a  very  light  cake,  and  is  ve- 
ry proper  for  young  people  and  delicate 
stomachs. 

CAKES,  RICH  GINGERBREAD.  To 
one  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  allow 
half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  washed  in 
rose  water,  one  pound  of  treacle,  one  nutmeg 
grated,  the  weight  of  a  nutmeg  of  pounded 
mace,  and  as  much  of  pounded  cinnamon, 
one  ounce  of  pounded  ginger,  one  and  a  half 
of  candied  orange  and  lemon-peel,  cut  small, 
hall' an  ounce  of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  cut 
it  into  long  thin  bits,  and  two  well-lx'atm 
eggs.  Melt  the  butter  with  the  treacle,  and 
when  nearly  cold,  stir  in  the  eggs  and  the 
rest  of  the  Ingredients ;  mix  all  well  together, 
make  it  into  round  cakes,  and  bake  them 
upon  tins. 


CAKE,  GINGERBREAD.  Take  two 
pounds  of  treacle,  two  and  a  quarter  of  flour, 
of  brown  sugar  and  fresh  butter  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  each,  four  ounces  of  caraway 
seeds,  the  same  quantity  of  candied  orange- 
peel  cut  small,  four  well-beaten  eggs,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  pearl  ashes;  beat  the  butter 
to  a  cream,  and  mix  it  with  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients.  The  next  day  work  it  well  up, 
and  bake  it  in  a  buttered  tin. 

CAKE,  GLOVE.  With  flour  make  into 
a  paste  thick  enough  to  roll  out,  the  beaten 
yolks  often  eggs,  five  table-spoonfuls  of  rich 
sweet  cream,  a  little  sugar,  and  some  carda- 
mons;  cut  it  into  fanciful  forms  with  small 
tins,  and  throw  them  into  fresh  boiling  lard 
or  butter ;  when  of  a  light  brown  color,  drain 
them  before  the  fire.  If  fried  in  butter,  add 
a  little  water  to  the  butter,  and  make  it  boil- 
ing hot. 

CAKES,  GIRDLE.  Rub  three  ounces 
of  fresh  butter  into  one  pound  of  flour,  with 
half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ;  moisten  with  a 
sufficiency  of  sweet  butter-milk  to  make  it 
into  a  paste ;  roll  it  out,  and  cut  it  into  cakes 
with  a  cup  or  tumbler,  and  bake  them  upon 
a  girdle. 

CAKES,  HONEY.  One  pound  and  a 
half  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  honey,  half  a  pound  of  finely 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
citron,  and  half  an  ounce  of  orauge-peel  cut 
small,  of  pounded  ginger  and  cinnamon,  three 
quarters  of  an  ounce.  Melt  the  sugar  with 
the  honey,  and  mix  in  the  other  ingredients; 
roll  out  the  paste,  and  cut  it  into  .small  cakes 
of  any  form. 

CAKES,  HEART.  With  your  hand 
work  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  cream,  then  put 
to  it  twelve  egg.s,  with  only  six  <>t'  the  whites 
well-beaten,  a  pound  of  dried  flour,  a  pound 
of  silted  sugar,  four  spoonfuls  of  good  brandy, 
and  a  pound  of  currants  wa.-hed  and  dried 
before  the  fire.  As  the  pans  are  filled,  put 
in  two  ounces  of  candied  orange  and  citron, 
and  continue  beating  the  cake  till  you  put  it 
into  the  oven.  This  quantity  will  be  suffi- 
cient to  fill  three  dozen  of  middling  sized 
pans. 

CAKES,  IRISH  SEED.  Beat  to  a 
cream  eight  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  rose  water,  putting  in  a 
tiilile-spooiiful  of  rose  water  at  a  time;  by 
decrees,  mix  into  it  u  pound  of  sifted  loaf 
sugar,  and  then  nine  well-lieaten  eggs;  add 
twelve  ounces  of  flour,  and  three  of  flour  of 
rice  dried  and  sifted,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  blanched  and  pounded  sweet  or  bitter  al- 
monds, a  tea-spoonful  of  essence  of  lemon, 


CAKE 


37 


CAKE 


and  one  ounce  of  caraway  seeds ;  beat  all 
these  well  together;  l«ke  it  in  a  rake  tin, 

which  must  be  buttered  and  liiitil  with  paper, 
also  buttered.  It  will  require  alxmt  our  hour 
and  a  half  to  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  It  may 
\x-  in  i.ir-  withoMt  tin-  a hai  nits  or  the  ™«P"^» 
of  lumon. 

<•  \KF.S,  LITTLE.    T»  a  pound  of  flour 

•!il  a  [xiuiul  of  luni])  • 

tine,  the  ]>eel  of  two  lemons  chopped  Miiall, 
and  live  ounces  of  butter;  mix  them  thor- 
oughly; let  it  stand  sometime  before  tlie  fire, 
then  add  thro-  rill's  well  beaten,  the  whites 
separately,  pick  tliem  with  a  fork  into  small 
lumps,  and  bake  them  on  a  tin:  this  quanti- 
ty will  make  about  eighty  cakes.  Instead 
of  lcin<in-|xvl  you  may,  if  you  please,  add 
sixty  bitter  alumm!.-:  blanched  and  beaten 
with  white  of  egg  until  they  are  quite  fine. 

CAKES,  MANON.  Form  some  puff 
•  an  under-crust  and  cover  some 
baking-plates  with  it;  then  spread  all  over 
them  some  frangipane,  or  marmalade,  of 
wliate\er  sort  you  please;  add  some  sweet- 
meat, and  then  eo\er  witlia  \erythin  crust ; 
gild  and  ornament  them,  then  put  them  in 
the  oven ;  when  diey  are  three  pails  done, 
sprinkle  them  with  sugar,  and  glaze.  \Vlien 
they  are  glazed  put  them  to  finish  baking  in 
a  more  gentle  oven,  and  when  done  take 
them  out  of  the  tin.-,  and  serve  them  either 
hot  or  cold. 

rAKT.S,  MOM'ROSE.  Of  dried  and 
sifted  flour,  pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
and  of  fresh  butler,  one  |x>und  each  will  Ix- 
required,  also  t«<  Ke  well-l>eati  n  c^'.'-S  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  cleaned  and  dried 
currants  ;  lieat  the  butter  to  a  cream  with  the 
,  Id  the  eggs  by  degrees,  and  then  the 
tiour  and  currants,  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  I  i  i.nly,  one  of  rose  water,  and  half  a 
grated  nutmeg;  U-at  all  well  together  lor 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  when  it  is  to  be 
put  into  small  buttered  tins,  half  filling  them, 
and  Inking  them  in  a  quirk  oven.  The 
currants  may  be  omitted. 

CAKES,  MEAT.     See  Meat. 

C  V  K  T. < .  \  UNS.     Take  four  pounds  of 

veiy  line  flour,  and  mix  with  it  three  pound* 
ol  Joulile-relined  suir-ir,  linrK  U-at  and  Ml'ted ; 
dr\  them  by  the  lire  till  \oiir  other  materials 
are  prepared;  tike  tour  pounds  of  butter, 
beat  it  in  your  hands  till  it  is  \ery  soft  like 
cream;  beat  thn  t\-f,ur  .-_•_'-.  Ic.ix'e.  out  six- 
teen wl:.'  :  reads  from  all; 
beat  the  ri^s  and  butter  together  till  it  aj>- 
pears  like  butter,  |x>ur  in  four  ..r  li\e 
s|x>ontuls  of  rnseor  nrange- flower  water,  and 
bc.it  it  again;  then  take  your  flour  and  sugar 


with  six  ounces  of  caraway  seeds ;  stre'irfC}^ 
in  by  degrees,  beating  it  up  all  the  while} 
lor  two  hours  togedier;  put  in  as  much  tinc- 
tme  of  cinnamon,  or  amUrirris,  as  you 
please;  butter  your  hoop,  and  let  it  stand 
three  hours  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CAKES,  NUNS'  BEADS.  Pound  in  a 
mortar  four  ounces  of  good  cheese,  with  a 
little  salt,  tlie  beaten  yolks  of  three-  eir^s,  and 
some  crumbs  of  bread ;  roll  them  as  large  as 
walnuts,  cover  them  with  puff  paste,  and  fry 
them  in  butter  a  light  brown  cUlor.  Serve 
them  in  a  napkin. 

CAKES,  OATMEAL.  One  only  shojild 
be  made  at  a  time,  as  the  mixture  dries 
quickly.  Put  two  or  three  handfuls  of  meal 
into  a  bowl,  and  moisten  it  with  water 
merely  sufficient  to  fonn  it  into  a  cake; 
knead  it  out  round  and  round  with  the  hands 
upon  the  paste-board,  strewing  meal  under 
and  over  it;  it  may  be  made  as  thin  as  a 
wafer,  or  thicker,  according  to  taste,  and 
put  it  on  a  hot  iron  plate,  called  a  girdle. 
Bake  it  till  it  be  a  light  brown  on  the  under 
side,  then  take  it  off,  and  toast  that  side 
before  the  fire  which  was  upjxjrmost  on  the 
girdle.  The  toaster  is  such  as  is  commonly 
used  for  heating  smoothing  irons,  having  a 
back  to  support  the  cake.  To  make  these 
cakes  soft,  they  must  not  be  toasted  before 
the  fire,  but  both  sides  done  quickly  on  the 
girdle. 

CAKE,  PLUM.  Three  pounds  of  flour, 
tliree  pounds  of  currants,  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  almonds,  blanched  and  beat  grossly, 
about  half  an  ounce  of  them  bitter,  four 
ounces  of  sugar,  seven  yolks  and  six  whites 
of  eggs,  one  pint  of  cream,  two  pounds  of 
butter,  half  a  pint  of  good  ale  yeast ;  mix  the 
eggs  and  the  yeast  together,  strain  them;  set 
die  cream  on  the  fire,  melt  die  butter  in  it ; 
stir  in  the  almond.-,  and  half  a  pint  of  sack, 
part  of  which  should  be  put  to  the  almonds 
while  beating ;  mix  together  the  flour,  cur- 
rants and  sugar,  what  nutmegs,  cloves  and 
mace  are  liked :  stir  these  to  the  cream :  put 
in  the  yeast. 

CAKES,  POTATO  CHEESE.  (1) 
Boil  and  peel  half  a  pound  of  good  potatoes, 
bruise  them  in  a  mortar,  and  when  nearly 
cold  drop  in  die  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg 
at  intervals,  until  four  have  been  added, 
beating  the  potatoes  well  all  die  time;  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  bread 
crumbs,  and  put  in  two  more  eggs.  Beat 
to  a  cream  six  ounces  offiesii  butter,  with 
the  same  quantity  of  pounded  loaf  sugar; 
[Nit  it  into  the  mortar,  with  die  grated  peel 
of  one  lemon,  and  mix  all  thoroughly.  Line 
the  patty-pans  with  paste,  fill  tliem  three 


CAKE 


38 


CAKE 


parts  full,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

CAKES,  POTATO  CHEESE.  (2) 

Pound  in  a  mortar  five  ounces  of  potatoes 
with  four  of  fresh  butter,  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  the  grated  peel 
and  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  three  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  brandy;  mix 
all  well  together,  and  bake  as  before  di- 
rected. 

CAKES,  PARLIAMENT.  Put  into  a 
sauce  pan  two  pounds  of  treacle,  and  when 
it  boils,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
and  pour  it  upon  two  pounds  of  flour;  add  a 
little  alum,  and  a  bit  of  pearlash  about  the 
size  of  a  nut,  and  an  ounce  of  ginger.  Work 
it  well  with  the  hand  till  quite  smooth;  let 
it  stand  a  day  and  a  night,  tlien  roll  it  out 
very  thin,  and  cut  it  into  oblong  cakes. 

CAKE,  POUND.  (1)  Take  one  pound 
of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  the  same  quantity 
of  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  of  fresh  butter  wasli- 
ed  in  j-ose  water ;  the  well-beaten  yolks  of 
twelve,  and  the  whites  of  six  eggs ;  then 
with  the  hand  beat  the  butter  to  a  cream, 
by  degrees  add  the  sugar,  then  the  eggs  and 
the  flour;  beat  it  all  well  together  for  an 
hour.  Bake  it  in  a  tin  pan  buttered,  or  in 
small  ones  in  a  quick  oven. 

CAKE,  POUND.  (2)  Take  of  dried 
and  sifted  flour,  sifted  loaf  sugar,  fresh  but- 
ter, cleaned  and  dried  currants,  one  pound 
each,  and  twelve  eggs;  then  whisk  the  volks 
and  whites  of  the  eggs,  separately,  while 
another  with  the  hand  beats  the  butter  to  a 
cream ;  and  as  the  froth  rises  upon  the  eggs 
a.dd  it  to  the  butter,  and  continue  so  doing 
till  it  is  all  beaten  in ;  mix  the  flour  and 
sugar  together,  and  add  them  by  degrees; 
the  last  thing,  mix  in  the  currants,  together 
with  a  glass  of  brandy.  It  will  require  to 
be  beaten  during  a  whole  hour.  Bake  it  in 
a  buttered  tin. 

CAKE,  POUND.  (3)  To  a  pound  of 
sifted  sugar,  add  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and 
mix  them  with  the  hand  ten  minutes ;  put  to 
them  nine  yolks  and  five  whites  of  eggs  well- 
beaten;  whisk  all  well,  and  add  a  pound  of 
sifted  flour,  a  few  caraway  seeds,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  candied  orange-peel  cut  into 
slices,  a  few  cuirants  washed  and  picked, 
and  mix  all  together  as  light  as  possible. 

CAKE,  QUEEN.  Beat  one  pound  of 
butter  to  a  cream,  with  some  rose  water, 
one  pound  of  flour  dried,  one  pound  of  sifted 
sugar,  twelve  eggs ;  beat  all  well  together ; 
add  a  few  currants  washed  and  dried ;  butter 
small  pans  of  a  size  for  the  purpose,  grate 


sugar  over  them ;  they  are  soon  baked.    They 

I  may  be  done  in  a  Dutch  oven. 

I 

CAKE,  ROYAL.  Put  a  very  little  lemon- 
peel,  shred  fine,  into  a  stewpan,  with  two 
ounces  of  sugar,  a  small  pinch  of  salt,  a 
piece  of  butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg,  a  glass 
of  water,  and  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  flour; 
stir  over  the  fire  till  the  paste  become*  thick, 
and  begins  to  adhere  to  tlie  stew  pan ;  then 
take  it  ofl",  put  in  an  egg,  and  stir  it  in  the 

i  paste  till  it  is  well  mixed ;  continue  to  add 
one  egg  at  a  time,  till  the  paste  softens  with- 
out becoming  liquid ;  then  put  in  some 
dried  orange  flowers,  and  two  bitter  almond 
biscuits,  the  whole  shred  line;  make  the 
paste  into  little  cakes,  alxnit  the  size  round 
of  a  half-crown ;  put  them  on  buttered  paper, 
gild  diem  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beat  up, 
and  bake  half  an  hour  in  an  oven  moderately 
hot. 

CAKE,  RICH.  To  two  pounds  and  a 
half  of  dried  and  sifted  flour  allow  the  same 
quantity  of  fresh  butter  washed  with  rose- 
water,  two  pounds  of  finely-pounded  loaf 
sugar,  three  pounds  of  cleaned  and  dried 
currants,  one  nutmeg  grated,  half  a  pound 
of  sweetmeats  cut  small,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  blanched  almonds  pounded  \\  itli  a 
little  ro.-e-water,  and  twenty  eggs,  the  yolks 
and  whites  separately  beaten.  The  butter 
must  IK-  beaten  with  the  hand  till  it  In-come 
like  cream;  then  add  the  sugar,  and  by 
degrees  the  eggs,  after  these  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients,  mixing  in  at  last  the  currants, 
with  a  tea-cupful  of  brandy,  and  nearly  as 
much  orange-flower  water.  This  mixture 
must  be  beaten  to»vther  rather  more  than 
an  hour,  then  put  into  a  cakcpan,  which  has 
previously  been  buttered  and  lined  with  but- 
tered paper;  fill  it  rather  more  than  three- 
quarters  full.  It  should  be  baked  in  a 
!  moderate  oxen  for  tlnee  hours,  and  then 
j  Cooled  gradually,  by  at  first  letting  it  stand 
!  sometime  at  tlie  mouth  of  tlie  oven. 

CAKE,  RICE.  '(1)  Whisk  ten  eggs  for 
half  an  hour,  add  to  them  half  a  |x>und  of  flour 
of  rice,  half  a  pound  of  pounded  and  sifted 
loaf  sugar,  and  the  grated  peel  of  two  lemons; 
mix  this  into  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
previously  beaten  to  a  cream.  Bake  tlie 
cake  in  a  buttered  tin. 

•  CAKE,  RICE.  (2)  Take  six  ounces  of 
ground  rice,  six  ounces  of  flour,  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar  sifted,  nine  eggs, 
the  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately;  mix 
all  well  together,  grate  in  tlie  rind  of  a  lemon, 
and  beat  it  well  half  an  hour. 

CAKES,  LITTLE  RICE.  Whisk  well 
six  yolks  and  two  whites  of  eggs;  then  with 


CAKE 


39 


CAKE 


a  born  spoon  beat  in  six  ounces  of  finely- 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  add  eight  ounces  of  girt- 
ed ground  rice,  and  (wo  tdUMpaooMi  of 

oian^e-tlower  or  roM.- water,  or  the  gi<Ued 
peel  of  a  lemou,  and  ju-t  befoi  v  tin-  mixture 
is  to  be  put  into  tile  tins,  stir  into  it  six 
ounces  of  fresh  butter  niched ;  dust  the  patty 
pans  with  tlour,  or  rub  them  with  butter; 
let  tliein  be  half  lilled,  and  bake  the  cukes 
in  a  quirk  oven. 

CAKES,    SMALL   ROUT.     Rub  into 

one  |x<iind  of  dried  and  sifted  (lour,  halt' a 
pound  of  butter,  six  ounces  of  jHiiinded  and 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  two  well- 
,'gs;  mix  them  all  into  a  paste  with. 
a  little  rosewater ;  di\iile  the  quantity,  |Mit 
a  few  dried  currants  or  caraway  seeds  into 
one  half;  roll  out  the  paste,  cut  it  into  small 
round  cakes,  and  bake  them  upon  buttered 
tins. 

CAKE  RICE,  A  SWEET  DISH.  Wash 
well  and  drain  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice. 
Boil  with  a  quart  of  fresh  cream  the  peel  of 
one  lemon,  and  when  nearly  cold  take  it  out 
and  put  in  the  rice ;  place  the  sauce  pan  over 
a  slow  fire,  and  wlien  the  rice  ILL-  swollen, 
add  a  little  salt,  and  sweeten  with  pounded 
loaf  sugar;  when  the  rice  is  quite  tender,  add 
the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  mix  in  gradually 
the  beaten  whites,  with  a  good  bit  of  fresh 
butter,  and  pour  it  into  a  mould;  turn  this 
round,  that  the  butter  may  equally  cover 
every  part  of  it,  then  pour  out  the  butter,  and 
strew  over  the  inside  a  lay  t-r  of  grated  bread ; 
with  a  |>a-te  brush  or  a  slip  of  paper,  sprinkle 
all  over  it  some  of  tin-  clarified  butter,  add 
more  grated  bread,  pour  in  the  rice,  and 
bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  (<>r  an  hour. 
Turn  it  out  upon  a  dish,  and  serve  it  with 
.,r  w  ithout  a  garnishing  of  preserved  rasp- 
berries, cherries,  or  currants. 

CAKES,  SPANISH.  Rub,  till  quite 
fine  and  smooth,  one  pound  of  butter  with 
two  pounds  of  flour,  then  add  a  pound  of 
good  brown  sugar,  rolled  fin«;  mix  all  to- 
gether \\itli  fi>iir  well-beaten  eggs;  break 
the  paste  into  -mall  bits  or  knobs,  and  bake 
them  upon  floured  tins. 

CAKES,  SHREWSBURY.     Take   a 

pound  of  butter,  and  put  it  in  a  little  flat 
(tin,  nib  it  till  it  is  as  fine  as  cream,  then 
take  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  a  little 
cinnamon  and  mace  |xMindcd,  and  t 
yolks  and  whites  together ;  beat  them  «nh 
your  hand  till  it  is  very  linhi  ;  then  take  one 
pound  and  a  half  of  sifted  tlour,  u<>ik  it 
togetlier,  and  roll  it  on  your  die-.-er,  to  wliat 
•ixe  you  like,  only  very  flat,  let  your  o\en  !»• 
rather  -l,,u.  anil  let  tin-in  change  their  color, 
tl u-n  take  them  out. 


CA  KE,  SPONGE.  ( 1 )  Weigh  ten  eggs, 
and  their  weight  in  very-  fine  sugar,  and  that 
of  six  in  flour;  heat  the  yolks  with  the  (lour, 
and  the  whites  alone,  to  a  very  stilt'  froth: 
tlien  by  degrees  mix  the  whites  and  the  flour 
with  the  other  ingredients,  and  beat  them 
well  half  an  hour.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  an 
hour. 

CAKE,  SPONGE.  (2)  Take  the  juice 
and  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  twelve  eggs, 
twelve  ounces  of  tinely-|xmiideil  loaf  sugar, 
the  same  of  dried  and  sifted  tlour ;  then  with 
a  horn  s|XM)ii  Ix-at  the  yolks  often  c<^s,  add 
the  sugar  by  degrees,  and  beat  it  till  it  will 
stand  wheii'dropped  froui  the  spoon ;  put  in 
at  separate  times  tile  two  other  eggs,  yolks 
and  whites;  whisk  the  ten  whites  for  eight 
minutes,  and  mix  in  the  lemon-juice,  and 
wlHsn  quite  stiff,  take  as  much  as  the  whisk 
will  lilt,  and  put  it  ii|x>n  the  yolks  and  sugar, 
which  must  be  beaten  all  the  time;  mix  in 
lightly  the  tlour  and  grated  peel,  and  pour  it 
all  gradually  over  the  whites;  stir  it  together, 
ami  hake  it  in  a  buttered  tin,  or  in  small 
tins ;  do  not  more  than  half  fill  them. 

CAKES,  SHORT.  Dissolve  half  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter  in  as  much  milk  a* 
u  ill  make  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour  into 
a  paste,  roll  it  out  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  and  cut  it  into  large  round  cakes. 
Do  them  in  a  fry  ing-pan,  and  serve  them  hot. 
They  are  eaten  with  butter. 

CAKES,  SALLY   LUNN.     Take. one 

pint  of  milk  quite  warm,  ,i  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  thick  sinall-iieer  yeast;  put  them  into  a  pan 
with  flour  sufficient  to  make  it  as  thick  as 
batter, — cover  it  o\er,  and  let  it  stand  till  it 
has  risen  as  high  as  it  will,  i.  e.  about  two 
hours:  add  two  ounces  of  lump  sugar,  dis- 
solved in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  warm  milk, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  rubbed  into 
your  flour  very  fine ;  then  make  your  dough 
the  same  as  for  French  rolls,  &c. ;  and  let 
it  stand  half  an  hour;  then  make  up  your 
cakes,  and  put  them  on  tins:  when  they  nave 
stood  to  rise,  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven. 
Care  should  be  taken  never  to  put  your 
yeast  to  water  or  milk  too  hot,  or  too  cold,  as 
either  extreme  will  destroy  the  fermentation. 
In  summer  it  should  be  lukewarm,  in  winter 
a  little  wanner,  and  in  very  cold  weather, 
warmer  still.  When  it  has  first  risen,  if  you 
are  not  prepared,  it  will  not  hurt  to  stand  an 
hour. 

CAKES,  SUGAR.  Take  half  a  pound 
of  di  yd  flour,  the  same  quantity  of  fresh 
I  mtter,  washed  in  rose  water,  and  a  quarter 
of  ;i  pound  of  sifted  loaf  sugar;  then  mix 
togetlier  the  flour  and  sugar:  rub  in  the  but- 
ter, and  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  with 


CAKE 


40 


CALF 


a  table-spoonful  of  cream ;  make  it  into  a 
paste,  roll,  and  cut  it  into  small  round  cakes, 
which  bake  ujxjn  a  floured  tin. 

''  CAKES,  TEA.  With  a  pound  of  flour 
rub  half  a  pound  of  butter ;  add  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two,  and  die  white  of  one  egg,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
and  a  few  caraway  seeds ;  mix  it  to  a  paste 
with  a  little  warm  milk,  cover  it  with  a 
cloth,  and  let  it  stand  before  die  fire  for 
nearly  an  hour ;  roll  out  die  paste,  and  cut  it 
into  round  cakes  with  die  top  of  a  glass,  and 
bake  them  upon  floured  tins. 

CAKE,  TWELFTH.  Two  pounds  of 
sifted  flour,  two  pounds  of  sifted  loaf  su- 
gar, two  pounds  of  butter,  eighteen  eggs, 
four  pounds  of  currants,  one  half  pound  of 
almonds  blanched  and  chopped,  one  half  pound 
of  citron,  one  pound  of  candied  orange  and 
lemon  peel  cut  into  diin  slices,  a  large  nut- 
meg grated,  half  an  ounce  of  ground  allspice ; 
ground  cinnamon,  mace,  ginger,  and  corian- 
ders,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  each,  and  a 
gill  of  brandy.  Put  die  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan,  in  a  warm  place,  and  work  it  into  a 
smooth  cream  with  the  haud,  and  mix  it 
with  the  sugar  and  spice  in  a  pan,  (or  on 
your  paste  board)  for  sometime ;  dien  break 
in  die  eggs  by  degrees,  and  beat  it  at  least 
twenty  minutes ;  stir  in  die  brandy,  and  then 
the  flour,  and  work  it  a  little;  add  the  fruit, 
sweetmeats,  and  almonds,  and  mix  all  to- 
gether lightly ;  have  ready  a  hoop  cased  with 
paper,  on  a  baking-plate;  put  in  the  mixture, 
smooth  it  on  die  lop  widi  your  hand,  dipped 
in  milk;  put  die  plate  on  another,  widi  saw 
dust  between,  to  prevent  die  bottom  from 
coloring  too  much:  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven 
four  hours  or  more,  and  when  nearly  cold, 
ice  it  widi  icing.  This  mixture  would  make 
a  handsome  cake,  foil  twelve  or  fourteen 
inches  over. 

CAKE,  WHITE.  Take  of  dried  and 
sifted  flour ,of  fresh  butter  and  of  finely-pound- 
ed loaf  sugar,  one  pound  each ;  five  well-beaten 
eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream,  of  candied 
orange  and  lemon  peel,  cut  small,  three  quar- 
ters of  an  ounce  each ;  one  ounce  of  cara- 
way seeds,  half  a  grated  nutmeg,  a  glass  of 
brandy,  and  a  little  rose  water;  then  beat 
the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  add  all  the  other 
ingredients  to  it,  and  at  die  last  mix  in  one  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  fresh  yeast ;  let  the  cake  rise 
before  die  fire  for  half  an  hour.  Bake  it  in 
a  buttered  tin.  Instantly  u|x>n  taking  it 
out  of  the  oven,  with  a  leather,  brush  tin- 
top  all  over  widi  the  beaten  white  of  an  egg, 
and  then  sift  loaf  sugar  upon  it.  Let  it 
stand  at  die  mouth  of  die  oven  to  harden. 

CAKES,  YEAST.    Take  a  pound  of 


flour,  two  pounds  of  currants,  washed  and 
picked,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  List*  HI  suijar,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  citron  and  candied  orange- 
peel  cut  into  slices,  cinnamon  and  mace,  a 
small  quantity  of  each  pounded  and  sifted. 
Make  a  hole  in  die  centre  of  die  ingredients, 
put  in  a  gill  of  sweet  wine,  a  little  warm 
milk,  mix  all  togedier,  fill  a  hoop  with  it, 
let  it  remain  till  it  rises,  and  bake  it. 

CAKES,  YORKSHIRE.       Take  two 

pounds  of  Hour,  and  mix  with  it  four  ounces 
of  butter,  melted  in  a  pint  of  good  milk, 
three  spoonfuls  of  yeast,  and  two  eggs ;  beat 
all  well  togedier,  and  let  it  rise ;  then  knead 
it,  and  make  it  Wo  cakes:  let  them  rise  on 
tins  before  you  bake,  which  do  in  u  slow 
oven.  Anodier  sort  is  made  as  above,  leav- 
ing ont  the  butter.  The  first  is  shorter,  die 
las^  lighter. 

CAKE,  BISCUIT.  One  pound  of  flour, 
five  eggs  well-beaten  and  strained,  eight 
ounces  of  sugar,  a  little  rose  or  orange-flower 
water,  beat  the  whole  dioroughly,  and  bake 
it  for  one  hour. 

CALF'S  BRAINS,  WITH  OYSTERS. 
Blanch  and  clean  die  brains,  then  wipe  diem 
dry,  dip  them  into  yolks  of  eggs,  and  roll 
them  in  broad  crumbs;  fry  them  in  boiling 
lard  till  of  a  good  color,  drain  tliem  very 
dry,  and  serve  with  oysters,  stewed  either 
white  or  brown.  Garnish  with  broiled  ham 
cut  in  Small  round  pieces. 

CALF'S  BRAINS.  Cleanse  two  calves' 
brains,  and  stew  them  in  stock  with  two  or 
diree  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley, scallions,  a  clove  of  garlic,  three 
cloves,  divine,  laurel,  and  basil;  when  suffi- 
ciently stewed,  cut  each  piece  of  die  brain 
in  two,  dip  diem  in  a  batter  made  of  two 
handfuls  of  flour,  diluted  with  a  little  oil,  half 
a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  salt.  Fry  them  in 
lard  until  the  batter  is  crisp  and  tlie  brains 
of  a  gold  color. 

CALF'S  BRAINS,  WITH  FRIED  PAR- 
SLEY. Blanch  three  or  four  brains  of 
nearlv  an  equal  si/.e;  ]. ailx.il  them,  and 
take  off  the  skin;  (lien  hoil  them  ri  water, 
with  a  little  salt,  vinegar  and  butter.  Serve 
them  with  a  sauce  made  of  a  little  browned 
butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  some  salt 
and  pepper,  and  some  parsley  fried  very 
green. 

CALF'S  CHITTERLINGS.  Cut  them 
open  with  scissors,  wa-li  and  cleans*1  them 
thoroughly,  lay  them  for  a  night  into  salt- 
and-water,  then  wash  them  well,  parboil, 
and  cut  them  into  small  pieces,  dip  them  uv 


CALF 


41 


CALF 


to  a  thick  batter,  seasoned  with  pepper, 
Kilt,  anil  a  little  white  wine.  Fry  them  of 
a  light  brown  color  in  beef  dripping;  serve 

with  a  fringe  i  if  fried  par.-ley.  Or,  After 
lieing  parlxiilnl,  they  may  lx-  roasted,  when 
they  nri.-t  !»•  constantly  basted  with  butter, 
dredged  with  tluur  to  froth  them  nicely; 
•••I  uiih  melteil  liinter,  and  lemon 
pickle  |x>urcd  iiver  them.  Or,  They  may 
DC  kiked  —  when,  after  Ix-ing  parlniled,  they 
are  rubbed  over  with  butter,  and  put  into 
(lie  .i\i  n  on  an  iron  frame,  which  i.-  placed 
in  a  deep  dish.  This  ulilnn^  frame  of 
white  iron,  about  two  inches  hi_'h,  will  be 
found  useful  in  baking  every  kind  of  meat. 


r\i.rsrii.ui>i;<>\, 

Parboil  a  calf's  cluiudrun,  and  when  cold, 
cut  it  in  pieces  about  as  big  as  walnuts; 
Beacon  them  \\ith  salt,  |>ep|>er,  undue*.',  denes, 
i  onion,  Hi  ra^iin,  and  par.-lc\  ,  sined 
line  ;  fry  them  in  a  ladlel'ul  of  good  broth 
anil  fresh  butter;  make  a  sauce  of  mutton 
giav\,  orange  and  lemon  juice,  eggs'  yolks, 
and  grated  nutmeg;  lots  up  these  in.ie.il- 

ents   witli  the  diaudron,  tliun  dish  it  and 


( ALF'S-FEET  PUDDIXG.  See  Pud- 
dingt. 

CALF'S  FEET  JELLY.     See  Jelly. 

CALF'S  FEET,  POTTED.  Boil  tire 
feet  a.-  |i>r  jelly,  pick  all  the  meat  frum  the 
bones,  add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  a  little 
.-ah,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  garlic,  a  shallot 
and  s<ime  shred  ham;  simmer  it  fur  half  an 
hour,  dip  a  mould  into  water,  put  in  a  lay- 
er nl  the  meat,  then  s  une  neatly-cut  pickled 
beet  root,  and  some  boiled  mincc-d  pai.-lev, 
then  a  layer  <>f  meat,  and  so  on,  till  the 
mould  lie  filled;  when  cold,  turn  it  out. 
li.unish  with  pickled  eggs,  beetroot,  anil 
paisley. 

/  CALF'S  FEET,  PLALX.  Scald,  clean, 
/and  Munch  some  caKes'  lit-l,  lx.il  them  till 
I  the  kmes  will  come  out,  then  stew  them  in 

a  blanc.      See  (  all".-    Head,   plain.      \Vhcn 

done,  drain  and  serve  them   with   parsley 

and  buiti-r. 

CALF'S  nr.AP,  iiAsiir.i).    Boil  the 

head  almost  en.  nigh,  and  lake  the  meal  of 
tlie  beat  side  neatly  from  the  bone,  and  lay 
it  in  a  xmall  dish;  wa.-h  it  o\er  with  die 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  cover  it  w  ith  crumbs, 
a  few  hcilw  nicely  shred,  a  little  pepper, salt, 
and  nutmeg,  all  mixed  i.  _.  t!i-  i  previously.  ; 
Set  tin-  dish  In-fore  tile  lire,  and  keep  lurn- 
iiu  il  ii'>u  and  then,  that  all  parts  may  be 
rimallv  l.i  In  the  meantime  slice  the 
i  en.  .1  head,  aud  the  tongue,  [ 

4» 


(peeled) ;  put  a  pint  of  good  gravy  into  a 
pan,  with  an  onion,  a  .-mall  bunch  of  herbs, 
(consisting  of  |>ars  ley,  kisil,  savory,  tarra- 
gon, knotted  marjoram,  and  a  little  thyme), 
a  little  salt  and  ('avenue,  a  .-ballot,  a  glass 
of  Sherry,  and  a  little  oyster  liquor:  bolt  this 
for  a  lew  minutes,  anil  strain  it  upon  the 
meat,  which  must  be  sprinkled  with  flour. 
Add  some  fresh  or  pickled  mushrooms,  a 
few  n  ulih*  and  morels,  and  two  s|>oonfuU  of 
catchup;  Ix-at  up  half  the  brains,  and  put 
(hem  to  the  rest,  with  a  bit  of  butter  and 
flour.  Simmer  the  whole.  Beat  the  other 
part  of  the  brains  with  shred  lemon-peel,  a 
little  nutmeg  and  mace,  some  parsley  shred, 
and  an  egg ;  fry  diis  in  little  calies  of  a  fine 
gold  color;  dip  some  oysters  into  die  yolk 
of  an  eg;;,  and  fry  die  same  way,  also  some 
good  forcemeat  balls,  and  garnish  the  dish 
widi  them. 

CALF'S  HEAD  SOUP,  OR  MOCK 
TURTLE.  See  Soupe. 

CALF'S  HEAD.  Widi  a  sharp  knife 
cut  all  die  meat  entire  from  the  bone,  cut 
out  the  tongue,  and  carefully  take  out  the 
!>rains  ;  lay  them  all  in  cold  water  for  two  or 
tliree  hours.  Mince  very  small  two  pounds 
of  lean  veal,  and  one  pound  of  beef  suet, 
with  the  grated  crumb  of  a  penny  loaf, 
some  sweet  herbs,  grated  lemon-peel,  nutmeg, 
IK  P|x-r,  and  salt ;  mix  them  well  together,  and 
bind  it  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten  up; 
re.-«rve  a?  much  of  the  forcemeat  as  will 
make  twenty  small  balls:  wash  the  head 
clean,  wi|ie  it  dry,  and  put  the  forcemeat  in- 
to the  inside;  close  it,  and  tie  it  firmly  with 
tape;  put  it  into  a  stcw|>aii  with  two  quarts 
of  u'l.ivv,  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs;  cover  it  cli»scly,  and 
let  it  stew  gentry  ;  Ixiil  the  tongue,  cut  it  in- 
to thin  .-lire.s,  mince  the  biaius  with  a  little 
par.-lev  aud  a  tablt>S|x«infu!  of  flour,  add 
some  |x-p|ier,  salt,  grated  lemon-peel,  and 
nutmeg;  lieal  two  eir.1--  and  mix  with  the 
p  it  widi  a  .-poo n  in  small  cakes 
into  a  pan  of  boiling  dripping,  and  fry 
them  of  a  light  brown  color.  Fry  the  force- 
meat kills,  and  drain  them,  w  ith  the  cakes, 
upon  the  kick  of  a  sieve  before  the  fire ; 
when  iln-  head  has  stewed  till  it  be  suffic- 
iently tender,  put  it  into  a  dish  and  takeoff 
the  U|)e,  strain  the  uravy,  and  thicken  it 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  of  rice,  and  a 
littk  bit  of  butter;  if  not  well  sra-sonen1,  add 
more  salt  and  pepper,  put  in  the  tongue, 
make  it  all  hot,  and  pour  it  over  die  head, 
(larnish  with  die  brain-cake.-,  forcemeat 
kills,  and  cut  lemon. 

CALF'S  I1DAI),  RO  \STKH.  Wash 
and  clean  it  well,  parboil  it,  take  out 
the  bone*,  brains,  and  tongue ;  make  force- 


CALF 


CALF 


meat  sufficient  for  the  head,  and  some 
balls  with  bread  crumbs,  minced  suet,  pars- 
ley, grated  ham,  and  a  little  pounded  veal, 
or  cold  fowl ;  season  with  pepper,  salt,  grated 
nutmeg,  and  lemon-peel;  bind  it  with  an 
egg,  beaten  up,  fill  the  head  with  it,  which 
must  then  be  sewed  up,  or  fastened  with 
skewers  and  tied.  While  roasting,  baste  it 
well  with  butter;  beat  up  the  brains  with  a 
little  cream,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  some  minc- 
ed parsley,- a  little  pepper  and  salt;  blanch 
the  tongue,  cut  it  into  slices,  and  fry  it 
with  the  brains,  forcemeat  balls,  and  thin 
slices  of  bacon.  Serve  the  head  with  white 
or  brown  thickened  gravy,  and  place  the 
tongue,  forcemeat  balls,  and  brains  round  it. 
Garnish  with  cut  lemon.  It  will  require 
one  hour  and  a  half  to  roast. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  PLAIN.  Clean  a 
calPs  head  nicely,  and  cut  out  the  bone  of 
the  lower  jaw,  and  of  the  nose,  taking  out 
the  pose  bone  as  close  to  the  eyes  as  possi- 
ble; wash  the  head  well  in  warm  water, 
and  let  it  blanch  in  some  clean  water.  Pre- 
pare a  blanc,  or  sauce,  as  follows: — One 
pound  of  beef  suet,  and  one  pound  of  fat 
bacon,  cut  small,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  a  little  thyme,  two  or 
three  bay  leaves,  one  or  two  onions,  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon ;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
mace,  cloves,  and  allspice;  boil  all  this  an 
hour  in  six  pints  of  water,  then  tie  up  the 
head  in  a  cloth,  boil  it  in  the  sauce  about 
three  hours,  and  drain  it;  take  out  the 
tongue,  skin  and  replace  it;  serve  quite 
hot,  with  the  following  sauce — minced  shal- 
lots, parsley,  the  brains  minced,  some  vine- 
gar, salt,  and  pepper. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  SOUSED.  Scald 
and  boue  a  calf's  head,  and  soak  it  for  sev- 
en or  eight  hours,  changing  the  water  twice ; 
dry  it  well.  Season  with  salt  and  bruised 
garlic;  roll  it  up,  bind  it  very  tight,  and 
boil  it  in  white  wine,  salt  and  water ;  when 
done,  put  it,  with  the  liquor,  in  a  pan,  and 
keep  it  for  use.  Serve  up  either  whole,  or 
in  slices,  with  oil,  vinegar,  and  pepper. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  BIGAREE.  Clean 
and  blanr-h  a  calf's  head,  boil  it  till  the 
bones  will  come  out  easily,  then  bone  and 
press  it  between  two  dishes,  so  as  to  give  it 
an  oblong  form ;  beat  with  the  yolks  of  four 
egsp  a  little  melted  butter,  pepper,  and  salt. 
Divide  the  head  when  cold,  and  brush  it  all 
over  with  the  Iwaten  eggs,  and  strew  over  it 
grated  bread ;  repeat  this  twice.  With  the 
grated  bread,  which  is  put  over  one  half,  a 
good  •quantity  of  finely-minced  parsley  slnmM 
be  mixed;  place  the  head  upon  a  dish,  and 
bake  it  of  a  nice  brown  color.  Serve  it 
with  a  sauce  of  parsley  and  butter,  and 


with  one  of  good  gravy,  mixed  with  the 
brains  which  have  been  previously  boiled, 
and  chopped,  and  seasoned  with  a  little 
Cayenne  and  salt. 

CALF'S  HEART,  ROASTED.  Fill 
the  heart  with  the  following  forcemeat:  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  lieef  suet,  chopped 


.  , 

paper  on  the  stuffing  to  keep  it  in  its  place. 
Put  the  heart  into  a  Dutch  oven,  l>cfi>re  a 
clear  fire,  and  turn  it  frequently,  till  thor- 
oughly roasted  all  round.  (iaruish  with 
slices  of  lemon,  and  pour  melted  butter  over 
„ 

I  CALF  LIVER,  BROILED.  Slice  it, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  broil  nice- 
ly: rub  a  bit  of  cold  butter  on  it,  and  serve 
hot  and  hot. 

CALF'S  LIVER,  LARDED  AND 
ROASTED.  Lard  a  fine  calf's  liver  the 
same  as  a  fricandeau,  and  let  it  lie  for 
twenty-four  hours  in  vinegar,  with  a  sliced 
onion,  some  parsley,  a  little  thyme,  a  bay 
leaf,  some  salt  and  pepper.  Roust,  and 
baste  it  well  with  butter,  then  glaze  it  with 
a  light  glaze,  and  serve  it  with  a  poivrade, 
or  any  other  sauce. 

CALF'S    LIVER,    ROASTED.      (1) 

\Vasli  and  wipe  it;  then  cut  a  long  hole  in  it, 
and  stuff  it  with  cmml>s  of  bread,  chopped 
anchovy,  a  good  deal  of  fat  bacon,  onion,  salt, 
pepper,  a  bit  of  butter,  and  an  r^;  sew 
the  liver  up;  lard  it,  wrap  it  in  a  veal  caul, 
and  roast  it.  Serve  with  good  brown  gra- 
vy and  currant  jellv. 

CALF'S  LIVER,  ROASTED.  (2) 
Lard  a  calf's  liver  with  streaky  bacon; 
roast  and  baste  it  frequently  with  its  own 
gravy. 

CALF'S  LIVER,  ROASTED.  (3). 
Lard  a  fine  calf's  liver,  and  pickle  it  in 
vinegar,  with  an  onion,  cut  into  slices,  pars- 
ley, salt,  pepper,  thyme,  and  a  bay  leaf. 
When  it  lias  been  snaked  fir  twenty-four 
hours,  fasten  it  on  a  spit,  roast  and  baste  it 
frequently.  Glaze  it  with  a  light  glaze,  as 
it  is  naturally  of  a  black  color.  Serve  un- 
der it  a  brown  poivrade. 

CALF'S  LIVER,  SCOLLOPS.  Par- 
boil and  cut  into  slices  a  vei  v  nice  calf's 
liver,  and  shape  them  into  hearts.  Stew 
some  fine  herbs,  parsley,  .-ballots,  and  mush- 
rooms; then  add  the  calf's  liver,  and  let  it 
stew  over  a  slow  lire;  when  done  on  one 
side,  turn  and  season  it  with  pepper  and 


CAP 


43 


CAP 


salt;  take  out  the  liver,  dredge  in  ;i  little 
flour  over  the  herbs,  and  add  some  more 
gravy;  let  this  boil  fiir  ten  minutes,  then 
neat  the  liver  in  the  sauce  before  serving  it. 
This  may  Ix1  eaten  at  breakfast. 

CALF'S  PLUCK.  Wash  it  very  clean, 
and,  if  liked,  stuff  the  heart  with  a  force- 
meat,  made  of  crumbs  of  bread,  butter,  and 
parsley,  and  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
grated  nutmeg.  Fasten  it  firmly  with  the 
Iher  and  lights,  tying  them  to  the  skewers 
while  roasting;  baste  it  well  with  butter, 
ami  truth  it  the  same  way  in  which  vc.il  is 
done,  and  serve  it  with  melted  butter,  mix- 
ed with  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle,  or 
vinegar  poured  over  it. 

CAPER  SAUCE.     See  Sauce. 

CAPILLAIRE.  Take  fourteen  pounds 
of  sugar,  thnr  (xumds  of  coarse  .-nu.ir.  six 
eggs  beat  in  with  the  shells,  three  quarts  of 
'•;  boil  it  up  twice;  skim  it  well,  then 
add  to  it  a  qnailer  of  a  pint  of  orau^e-liuw- 
er  water;  strain  it  through  a  jellv-bag,  and 
put  it  into  Inittles;  when  cold,  mix  a 
spoonful  or  iwr.  of  this  sirup,  as  it  is  liked 
for  sweetness  in  a  draught  of  warm  or  cold 
wat'T. 

r.U'II.OTADE  ITALIAN.  Cut  up 
a  cold  roast  fowl ;  then  take  a  good  slice 
of  butter,  and  some  shred  mushrooms  and 
potherbs;  fry  these  till  they  are  about  to 
turn  brown,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour; 
then  add  to  them  a  large  glass  of  white 
wine.  I/el  the  whole  simmer  together  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour;  next  put  in  the  pieces 
of  fowl,  and  heat  them  up  for  a  fe.w  minutes. 
<iarnish  voiir  di.-h  with  tried  .-lices  .  if  bread  ; 
ami  JMt  beftn  you  ser\e,  pour  into  the 
saucepan  two  table-spoonfuls  of  oil,  takins; 
care  that  il  docs  not  boil,  and  stir  it  up  weU 
with  the  sauce. 

CM'ONS  OR  FOWLS,  Must  be  kill- 
ed a  coaple  of  days  in  moderate,  and  more 
in  col. I  wiMlh'T,  before  they  are  dressed,  or 
tli  v  will  eat  tonsil:  a  good  criterion  of  the 
ripeness  of  p-uiltry  f"r  the  spit,  is  the  ease 
with  which  you  can  then  pull  out  the  feathers  ; 
when  a  fowl  is  plucked,  leave  a  few  to  help 
you  to  ascertain  this.  They  are  managed 
exact l\  in  tin-  same  manner,  ami  sent  up 
with  tin-  same  Alices  as  a  turkey,  niiK  they 
require  proportionabU  1.  --  time  at  the  fire. 
A  full-growl  live-toed  fowl,  alniut  an  hour 
and  a  quarter.  A  noderate-Maod  one,  an 
hour  A  chicken,  from  thirty  to  foru  min- 
Here,  also,  |»rk  sausages  I'ried  are 
in  general  a  favorite  accoiii] •aniiuctit,  or 
turkey  sliiltin^:  sir  forcemeats;  put  in  plen- 
ty of  it,  so  as  to  plump  out  the  lowl,  which 


mu>t  be  tied  closely  (t*>th  at  the  neck  and 
rump),  to  keep  in  the  stuffing.  Some  cooks 
put  the  li\er  of  ill;-  fowl  into  this  forcemeat, 
and  others  mince  it  and  (Kiunil  it,  and  nib  it 
up  with  flour  and  melted  butter.  When 
the  bird  is  stuffed  and  trussed,  score  the 
gizzard  nicely,  dip  it  into  melted  butter,  let 
il  drain,  and  then  season  it  with  < 
and  salt;  put  it  under  one  pinion,  and  the 
liver  under  the  other;  to  prevent  their  get- 
ting hardened  or  scorched,  cover  them  with 
double  paper  twittered.  Take  care  that 
your  roasted  poultry  l>e  well  browned  ;  it  is 
as  indispensable  that  roasted  poultry  should 
have  a  rich  brown  complexion,  a«i  boiled 
poultry  should  have  a  delicate  white  one. 

CAPON,  TO  CHOOSE.  If  it  is  young, 
his  spurs  arc  short  and  his  legs  smooth ;  if 
a  true  capon,  a  fat  vein  on  the  side  of  his 
breast,  the  comb  pale,  and  a  thick  Ix-lly  and 
rump;  if  fresh,  he  will  have  a  close  hard 
vent ;  if  stale,  a  loose  open  vent. 

CAPON,  THE  FRENCH  WAY.  Take 
a  quart  of  white  wine,  season  the  capon 
with  salt,  cloves,  and  whole  pepper,  a  few 
shallots ;  and  then  put  the  capon  in  an  earth- 
en pan ;  you  must  take  care  it  has  not  room 
to  shake ;  it  must  be  covered  close,  and  done 
over  a  slow  charcoal  fire. 

CAPON  PASTY.  Roast  a  capon,  let 
it  be  cold,  take  the  flesh  from  the  bones  and 
slice  it,  but  keep  the  thighs  and  pinions 
whole.  Add  to  the  flesh  of  the  capon,  four 
sweetbreads  and  half  a  pint  of  oysters,  sea- 
son them  with  salt,  cloves,  nutmeg,  and 
mace,  sweet  marjoram,  pennyroyal,  and 
thyme,  minced  ;  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  or 
paste  in  \our  pasty-pan,  and  lay  the  thighs 
and  pinions  on  the  Ixittom,  and  strew  them 
over  with  sliced  onions,  then  put  in  the 
flesh  of  the  capon,  the  sweetbreads,  and  die 
oysters,  cut  in  halves ;  over  these  strew  a 
handful  of  chestnuts,  boiled  and  blanclied, 
then  put  butter  over  them,  close  up  your  pan 
and  bake  it ;  when  done,  add  gravy,  good 
stock,  draw  n  butter,  anchovies,  and"  grated 
nninie,';  '.furnish  with  slices  of  lemon,  and 
serve.  Turkey  may  be  done  in  the  same 
manner. 

CAPONS    A   LA   TURQUE.      I'ick, 

and  clean  very  nicely,  two  tine  cajHiiis  :  wash 
the  inside  |x-rfectlv  clean  with  warm  water, 
and  let  them  soak  in  warm  water  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour;  dry  them  well,  and  put 
into  them  f,,\ti>-  rice  which  has  tx-en  lioiled 
till  soft  ill  some  rich  well-seasoned  stock, 
tru.-s  and  cover  them  with  layers  of  I«COD, 
wrap  them  in  ]M).<T.  a"d  roa-t  them  for  an 
hour  bv  a  hanging-jack;  serve  them,  put- 
ting all  round  the  di.-h  a  part  of  the  rice 


CAR 


44 


CAR 


which  was  prepared  for  the  stuffing,  and 
pour  over  the  fowls  a  veloute  sauce.  One 
fine  large  fowl  may  be  dressed  in  this 
manner. 

CAPSICUMS,  TO  PICKLE.  Gather 
the  pods,  witli  the  stalks  on,  before  they  turn 
red;  cut  a  slit  down  the  side  with  a  pen- 
knife, and  take  out  all  the  seeds,  but  as  lit- 
tle of  the  meat  as  possible;  lay  them  in  a 
strong  brine  for  three  days,  changing  it  eve- 
ry day ;  then  take  them  out,  lay  them  on  a 
cloth,  and  lay  another  over  them  till  they 
are  quite  dry ;  boil  vinegar  enough  to  cover 
them,  put  in  some  mace  and  nutmeg  beat 
small;  put  the  pods  into  a  glass>or  jar,  and 
when  the  liquor  is  cold,  pour  it  over,  then 
tie  a  bladder  and  leather  over  them. 

CARDOONS,  WITH  CHEESE.  String 
and  cut  them  an  inch  long,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  red  wine,  seasoned  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  stew  them  till  they  are  tender, 
put  in  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and 
when  of  a  proper  thickness  pour  them  into 
a  dish,  squeeze  the  juice  of  an  orange  into 
the  sauce,  and  scrajx;  over  them  some  Par- 
mesan or  Cheshire  cheese,  and  then  brown 
them  with  a  cheese-iron,  but  not  of  too  high 
a  color. 

CARDOONS,  TO  DRESS.  Cut  them 
in  pieces  six  inches  lung,  and  put  them  on  a 
string ;  boil  till  tender,  have  ready  a  piece 
of  butter  in  a  pan,  (lour  and  fry  them.  They 
may  also  be  tied  in  bundles,  and  served  as 
asparagus  boiled  on  a  toast,  and  pour  but- 
ter over. 

CARDOONS,  SPANISH.  Cut  them 
into  lengdis  of  three  inches,  be  careful  not 
to  use  those  which  are  hollow  and  green; 
boil  tlic-in  for  half  an  hour,  then  put  them 
into  lukewarm  writer  to  cleanse  them  from 
their  slime;  then  dress  them  in  some  stock, 
with  a  spoo.iful  of  flour,  some  salt,  onions, 
roots,  a  bunrh  of  sueet  herbs,  a  little  ver- 
juice, and  a  little  butter;  when  done,  put 
them  into  a  cullis  with  sonic  stock;  cook 
them  for  an  hour  in  this  sauce,  and  serve. 

CARROTS.  Let  them  be  well  washed 
and  brushed,  not  scraped.  An  hour  is 
enough  for  young  spring  carrots  ;  grown  car- 
rots must  be  cut  in  half,  and  will  take  from 
an  hour  and  a  hall"  to  two  hours  and  a  half. 
When  done,  rub  off  the  peels  with  a  clean 
coarse  cloth,  and  slice  them  in  two  or  four, 
.-according  to  their  size.  The  best  way  to 
try  if  they  are  done  enough,  is  to  pierce  them 
with  a  fork.  Many  |x?t>ple  are  fond  of  cold 
carrot  with  cold  beef;  ask  if  you  shall  cook 
enough  for  some  to  Ix;  left  to  send  up  v\  ith 
the  cold  meat. 


CARAMEL,   OR   BOILED  SUGAR. 

Break  into  a  small  copper  or  brass  pan,  one 
pound  of  refined  sugar,  —  put  in  a  gill  of 
spring  water  ;  —  set  if  on  a  fire,  and  when 
it  boils,  skim  it  quite  clean,  and  let  it  boil 
quick,  till  it  comes  to  the  degree  called 
Crack,  which  may  be  known  by  dipping  a 
teaspoon  or  skew  er  into  the  sugar,  and  let 
it  drop  to  the  bottom  of  a  pan  of  cold  water; 
and  if  it  remains  hard,  it  has  attained  that 
decree;  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  let  it  remain  one  minute  longer  on  the 
fire,  then  set  the  pan  into  anotlier  of  cold 
water:  —  have  ready  moulds  of  any  shape, 

—  rub  them  over  with  sweet  oil,  dip  a  spoon 
or  (I  irk  into  the  sugar,  and  throw  it  over  the 
mould  in  line  threads,  till  it  is  quite  covered: 

—  nfRke  a  small  handle  of  caramel,  or  stick 
on  two  or  three  small  gum  paste  rings,  by 
way  of  ornament,  and  place   it   over  small 

of  any  description. 


CARP,  BOILED.  Scale  and  clean  a 
brace  of  carp,  reserving  the  liver  and  roe; 
take  half  a  pint  of  vinegar,  or  a  quart  of 
sharp  cider,  add  as  much  water  as  will  cov- 
er the  fish.  a  piece  of  horse-radish,  an  onion 
cut  int'i  slices,  a  little  salt,  and  a  faggot  of 
sweet  herbs;  boil  the  fish  in  this  liquor,  and 
make  a  sauce  as  follows:  —  strain  some  of 
the  liquor  the  fish  has  been  boiled  in,  and 
put  to  it  the  liver  minced,  a  pint  of  Port 
wine,  two  anchovies,  two  or  three  heads  of 
shallots  chop|>ed,  some  salt  and  black  pep- 
per, a  little  Cayenne,  a  table-spoonful  of  soy; 
boil  and  strain  it,  thicken  it  with  flour  and 
butter,  pour  it  over  the  carp  hot,  garnish 
with  the  roe  fried,  cut  lemon  and  parsley. 

CARP,  STEWED.  Scale  and  clean 
a  brace  of  carp,  reserving  the  liver  and 
roe;  pour  over  the  fish  in  a  deep  pan  a  pint 
of  vinegar,  which  may  IK-  elder  vinegar,  if 
the  flavor  is  preferred,  with  a  little  mace, 
three  cloves,  some  salt  and  Jamaica  pepper, 
two  onions  sliced,  a  faggot  of  parsley,  basil, 
thyme,  and  marjoram:  let  them  soak  an 
hour,  then  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the 
vinegar,  and  otln-r  things,  the  liver  chopped, 
a  pint  of  .Madeira,  and  three  pints  of  veal 
stock  ;  steu  them  an  hour  or  two  accord- 
ing to  their  siae;  takeout  the  fish  and  put 
them  over  a  |>an  of  hot  water  to  keep  warm 
while  the  following  sauce  is  made:  —  Strain 
the  liquor,  and  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
beaten,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  a  large  spoon- 
ful of  flour,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  stir  it  constantly,  and  just  before 
putting  it  over  the  carp,  squeeze  in  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  lioil  or  fry  the  roe. 
Plain  boiled  carp  may  be  served  with  this 
sauce,  and  is  dished  in  a  napkin. 

CARP,   FRIED.      Clean   and   scale  a 


CAU 


45 


CHA 


carp;  split  it  up  the  back;  flatten  the  back- 
bone, sprinkle  your  fwh  with  flour,  then 
sprinkle  tlie  roes  which  have  been  put  aside, 
[Hit  the  whole  into  a  frying-pan  made  very 
liot,  fry  to  a  rich  color,  and  serve  it  with 
lemon-juice. 

CARROT  FRITTERS.  Beat  two  or 
three  boiled  carrots  to  a  pulp  with  a  spoon ; 
add  to  them  six  eggs  and  a  handful  of  flour; 
moisten  them  with  either  cream,  milk,  or 
white  wine,  and  sweeten  them.  Beat  all 
together  well,  and  fry  in  boiling  lard.  When 
of  a  good  color,  take  them  off  and  squeeze 
on  them  the  juice  of  a  Seville  orange,  and 
strew  over  fine  sugar. 

CARROT  PUDDING.     See  Pudding. 

CASSILE.     Mix  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
potato-flour  with  two  or  tliree  of  cream  or 
good  milk;  Ixoil  for  a  few  minutes  with  a 
ream  or  milk,  the  peel  of  a  lemon 
and  a  bit  of  cinnamon  ;  stir  it  with^he  flour 
UB]  sweeten,  and  stir  it  again  over 
the  fire  for  three  or  four  minutes;  pour  it  in- 
to a  mould  ;  turn  it  out  when  cold. 

CAULIFLOWF.R.  ("boose  those  that 
are  close  and  white,  and  of  the  middle  size; 
trim  off  theoutside  leaves;  cut  die  stalk  off 
flat  at  tin:  bottom;  let  them  lie  in  salt  and 
water  an  liSar  before  you  boil  them.  Put 
them  into  (Milling  water  with  a  handful  of 
salt  in  it;  skim  it  well,  and  let  it  lx>il  slow- 
ly till  done,  which  a  small  one  will  l>e  in  fif- 
livi.  a  lai-,-e  one  in  about  twenty  minutes ; 


CAULIFLOWER  SALAD.  When 
you  have  prepared  and  boiled  the  cauli- 
flowers, drain  and  let  them  cool ;  cut  diem 
in  pieces;  season  diem  with  salt,  pepper, 
oil  and  vinegar,  and  cat  diem  as  any  other 
salad. 

CAUDLE.  (1)  Boil  up  half  a  pint  of 
fine  gruel,  with  a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
large  nutmeg,  a  large  spoonful  of  brandy, 
die  same  of  white  wine,  one  of  capillaire,  a 
piece  of  lemon-peel,  and  nutmeg. 

CAUDLE.     (2)     Make  a  fine  smooth 

gruel  of  half-grits;  when  boiled,  strain  it, 
stir  it  at  times  till  cold.  When  wanted  for 
use,  add  sugar,  wine,  and  lemon-peel,  with 
some  nutmeg.  According  to  taste,  yon  may 
add,  if  you  please,  besides  die  wine,  a  spoon- 
ful of  brandy,  or  lemon-juice. 

CAUDLE,  BROWN.     Boil   the  gruel 

I  die  same  as  for  white  caudle,  with  six  spoon- 

!  fills  of  oatmeal,  and  strain  jic   then  add  a 

i  quart  of  good  ale,  not  bitterylioil  it,  then 

!  sweeten  it  according  to  your  taste,  and  add 

half  a  pint  of  white  wine.     When  you  do 

not  put  in  die  white  wine,  let  it  lie  half  ale. 

CAUDLE,  COLD.  Boil  a  quart  of 
spring  water;  when  cold,  add  die  yolk  of 
an  egg,  die  juice  of  a  small  lemon,  six  sjxxm- 
fuls  of  sweet  wine,  sugar  to  your  taste,  and 
one  ounce  of  sirup  of  lemons. 

CECILS.  Mix  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes  die  following  ingredients:  minced 


,  aou     weny  mnues;      i  lnues      e    oowng     ngreens:    mnce 

put   it   is  enough,  a  min-     meat  of  whatever  kind   yon   please,    bread 


ute  or  two  longer  boiling  will  .-|x,il  it. 

CAULIFLOWERS  OR  BROCCOLI, 
riCKI.KI).  Chooee  those  that  are  hard, 
yet  sufficiently  ripe,  cut  away  the  leaves  and 
stalks.  Set  on  a  stew|xin  half  full  of  water, 
salted  in  proportion  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  salt  to  a  quart  of  water;  throw  in  the 
cauliflower,  and  let  it  heat  gradually ;  wlien 
it  Iniils  take  it  up  with  a  spoon  fiill  of  holes, 
and  .«pre:id  them  on  a  cloth  to  dry  lx,-fore 
the  fire,  t'.r  twenty-four  hours  at  least;  when 
quite  dry,  put  them,  piece  by  piece,  into 
i  i;la-s  tie-o\eis,  and  cover  them  with 
the  pickle  we  have  directed  for  beet  roots, 
or  make  a  pickle  by  infusing  three  ounces 
of  the  curry  |x  >«  der  for  three  days  in  a  quart 
of  vinegar  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  Nastur- 
tiums are  excellent  prepared  as  above. 


CutZTc 


crumbs,  plenty  of  onion,  lemon-peel,  mit- 
iii- -LT.  parsley  chopped,  j>cpper,  salt,  a  little 
butter,  and  SMIK;  anchovies.  When  nearly 
cojd,  roll  them  up  into  balls  alxnit  the  size 
of  an  e^;  moisten  tliem  with 
bread  crumbs  o\er  ;lie.n,  and  fry  them  of  a 
good  clear  color:  serve  tliem  with  made 
gravy. 

CELERY,  TO  STEW.  Wash  and 
clean  some  heads  of  eelerv,  cut  them  into 
pieces  of  two  or  •three  indies  long,  boil 
them  in  v«tl  sto>-k*tiM  tender.  To  half  a 
pint  of  cream  add  the  well-beaten  yol 
two  eggs,  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  grated  nut- 
meg, and  salt,  also  a  bit  of  butter;  make  it 
hot,  stirring  rt  <;  instantly;  strain  it  upon  the 
celery ;  heat  it  thoroughly,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil. 


CAII. I!  LOWERS,  PICKLED.  Cut7\~  CHARLOTTE.  (1)  Cut  a  sufficient 
the  canlitl ..«,  -rs  in  pieces,  and  throw  them  number  of  thin  slices  of  white  bread  t.. 
into  boiling  water  tor  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  the  U.itom  and  line  tJie  .sides  of  a  haking- 
then  lay  them  ..a  cloth-  to  drain.  I'm  tliem  dish,  linrt  mining  it  thickly  with  butter, 
in  a  jar  with  doves  and  salt,  and  cover  Put  thin  sli-.,  s  of  apple*  into  the  dish  in 
them  with  tlie  beat  vinegar.  la\em,  till  the  dish  is  full,  strewing  sugar 


46 


CHE 


and  bits  of  butter  between.  In  the  mean- 
time, soak  as  many  thin  slices  of  bread  as 
will  cover  the  whole,- in  warm  milk;  over 
which  place  a  plate,  and  a  weight,  to  keep 
the  bread  close  upon  the  apples ;  let  it  bake 
slowly  for  three  hours.  For  a  middling- 
sized  dish,  you  should  use  half  a  |xmnd  of 
butter  for  the  whole. 

CHARLOTTE.  (2)  This  second  course 
may  be  made  of  any  kind  of  fruit  you  please, 
and  is  eaten  hot.  If  apples  are  used,  pare, 
core,  and  cut  about  twenty  of  them  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  some  water,  a  good  piece  of  fresh  but- 
ter, powder-sugar,  pounded  cinnamon,  and 
grated  lemon-peel,  and  stew  till  the  water  is 
dried  up;  then  set  diem  to  cool  in  an  earth- 
en ware  vessel.  Cut  some  very  thin  slices 
of  crumb  of  bread,  dip  them  in  melted  fresh 
butter,  and  lay  them  nes^ly  all  over  the  bot- 
tom and  round  the  sides  of  the  stewpan ; 
then  pour  in  the  apples,  leavjng  a  "hole  in- 
die middle,4ui  which  ..put  apricot  marma- 
lade. Coveipbi<?  whole  witbjferead,  sliced 
thin,  and  buttered  'as  above.""  Place  it  in  a 
hot  oven,  bake  it  an  houi*  and  turn  it  out. 

CHARLOTTE  DBS  POMMES.  Pare, 
core,  and  mince  fourteen  or  fifteen  French 
rennet  apples;  put  diem  into  a  frying-pan, 
with  some  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  little  pound- 
ed cinnamon,  grated  lemon-peel,  and  two 
ounces  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter ;  fry  them 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  over  a  quick  fire,  stir- 
ring diem  constandy.  Butter  a  shape  of 
die  size  the  charlotte  is  intended  to  be ;  cut 
strips  of  bread  about  die  widdi  of  two  fin- 
gers, and  long  enough  to  reach  from  die 
bottom  to  die  rim  of  die  shape,  so  that  die 
whole  be  lined  widi  bread ;  dip  each  bit  in- 
to melted  butter,  and  dien  put  a  layer  of 
die  fried  apples,  and  one  of  apricot  jam  or 
marmalade,  and  then  one  of  bread  dipped 
into  butter ;  begin  and  finish  with  it.  Bake 
it  in  an  oven  for  nearly  an  hour ;  turn  it  out 
to  serve  it.  It  may  be  boiled,  and  served 
with  a  sweet  sauce. 

CHEESE,  BOILED.  Grate  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  good  cheese,  put  it  into  a 
sauce  pan,  widi  a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
nutmeg,  and  half  a  tea-cupful  of  milk,  stir  it 
over  the  fire  till  it  boil,  and  then  add  a  well- 
U-aten  egg;  mix  it  all  together,  put  it  into 
a  small  dish,  and  brown  it  before  die  fire. 

CHEESE,  CAKE  OF.  Take  about  the 
fourth  part  of  a  close,  fat  Brie  cheese,  pound 
and  rub  it  through  a  sieve ;  mix  widi  it  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  flour;  lay  it  on  the  board, 
make  a  hole  in  die  middle,  into  which  put 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  work 
it  in  well ;  add  to  it  a  litde  Gruyere  cheese 


grated,  and  six  eggs.  Knead  these  all  to- 
gether well ;  mould  it  up,  and  let  it  stand 
for  half  an  hour ;  then  roll  it  out,  and  make 
it  into  a  cake  of  about  three  inches;  mark 
it  widi  a  knife  on  one  side  in  chequers,  and 
on  die  odier  in  rays ;  dcr~ez,  and  bake  it  in 
a  moderate  oven. 

CHEESE  CREAM.  Warm  three  hall 
pints  of  cream  with  one  half  pint  of  milk, 
or  according  to  die  same  proportion,  and 
put  a  little  rennet  to  it ;  keep  it  covered  in 
a  warm  place  till  it  is  curdled;  have  a  pro- 
per mould  with  holes,  either  of  China  or  any 
other;  put  the  curds  into  it  to  drain,  about 
an  hour,  or  less :  serve  widi  a  good  plain 
cream,  and  pounded  sugar  over  it. 

CHEESECAKES.  (1)  Put  two  quarts 
of  new  milk  into  a  stowpan,  set  it  near  the 
fire,  and  stir  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  ren- 
net: let  it  stand  till  it  is  set  (this  will  take 
alxwt  an  hour) ;  break  it  well  widi  your 
hand,  ajd  let  it'remain  half  an  hour  longer; 
then  poVyftjff  thje  whey^and  put  die  curd  into 
a  lokyider-to,  drain ;  '.vjjLien  quite  dry,  put  it 
in  a  mortar',  aml^wmjuBk  quite,  .smooth; 
then  add  four  oiinceS>fiKar,«jwgHided  and 
sifted,  and  three  ounWsiif  fr<*h  butter;  oil 
it  first  by  putting  it  in  ai  'fittle  pptting-pot, 
and  setting  it  near  the  fire;  stir  it  all  well 
together:  beat  the  yolks  of  four  eiri;>  in  a 
basin,  with  a  little  nutmeg  grated,  Icnioii- 
peel,  and  a  glass  of  brandy  ;  add  this  to  the 
curd,  with  two  ounces  of  currants,  washed 
and  picked ;  stir  it  all  well  togedier ;  have 
your  tins  ready  lined  with  puft'  paste  about 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  notch  diem  all 
round  die  edge,  and  fill  each  with  die  curd. 
Bake  them  twenty  minutes.  When  you 
have  company,  and  want  a  variety,  you  can 
make  a  mould  of  curd  and  cream,  by  put- 
ting die  curd  in  a  mould  full  of  holes,  instead 
of  the  colander:  let  it  stand  for  six  hours, 
dien  turn  it  out  very  carefully  on  a  dish,  and 
pour  over  it  half  a  pint  of  good  cream  sweet- 
ened with  loaf  sugar,  and  a  little  nutmeg. 
What  there  is  left,  if  set  in  a  cool  place, 
will  make  excellent  cheesecakes  die  next 
day. 

CHEESECAKES.  (2)  Put  a  spoonful 
of  rennet  into  a  quart  of  milk;  when  turned, 
drain  the  curd  through  a  coarse  sieve,  gent- 
ly break  the  curd,  and  rub  in  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
sugar,  nutmeg,  and  two  Naples  biscuits 
grated,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  die  white 
of  one,  half  an  ounce  of  almonds,  half  bitter 
and  half  sweet,  well  beaten  in  a  mortar, 
widi  two  spoonfuls  of  rose  water,  four  ounces 
of  currants;  put  in  the  curd,  and  mix  all 
togedaer.  One  quart  of  milk,  and  tliree 
dessert  spoonfuls  of  rice-flour,  six  eggs,  leave 


CHE 


47 


CHE 


out  three  of  the  whites,  and  currants  to 
your  taste. 

CHEESECAKES.       (3)      Beat  eight 

eggs  well,  while  ;i  quart  of  milk  is  on  tin- 
fire,  ami  uln-ii  it  luils,  [Hit  in  the  eggs,  and 
Mir  tin-in  till  they  come  to  a  curd ;  men  pour 
it  nut,  and  when  it  is  cold,  put  in  a  little 
salt,  two  spoonfuls  of  rose  water,  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  currants  well  washed  ; 
put  it  into  pull  panic,  and  bake  it.  If  vou 
use  tin  patties  lo  bake  in,  butter  them,  or 
you  will  not  be  able  to  take  them  out;  but 
if  you  bake  them  in  glass  or  china,  only  an 
upper  crust  will  be  necessary,  as  you  will 
not  want  to  take  them  out  when  you  send 
them  to  table. 

CHEESECAKES.  (•*}  Take  one  pound 
of  loaf  sugar  jxiundcd,  six  yolks,  and  four 
whites  of  eggs  beaten,  the  juice  of  three  fine 
lemon-,  the  united  rind  of  two,  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter;  put  these  in- 
gredients into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  tin-  mix- 
ture gently  over  a  i-low  fire  till  it  be  of  the 
Consistence  of  honey;  pour  it  into  small 
in-,  .mil  when  cold  [Mil  pa|>er  dipfx-d  in 
brandy  over  them.  It  will  keep  good  for  a 
year. 

CHEESE,  POUNDED.     Cut  a  pound 

of  good  mellow  cheese  into  thin  bits;  add 
to  it  two,  and  if  the  cheese  is  dry,  three 
ounces  of  fresh  butter;  (xmnd,  and  rub  them 
well  together  in  a  mortar  till  it  is  quite 
smooth.  When  cheese  is  dry,  and  for  those 
whom  digestion  is  feeble,  this  is  the  best 
way  of  eating  it;  and  spread  on  bread,  it 
makes  an  excellent  luncheon  or  siipjier. 
Tin-  pir/uance  of  this  is  sometime-  inm-as- 
cd  by  |»>!iiidii>!(  with  it  curry  powder,  ground 
spire,  black  |x-p|x-r,  ('avenue,  and  a  little 
made  mustard;  and  some  moisten  it  with  a 
glass  of  Sherry.  If  pressed  down  hard  in 
a  jar,  and  covered  with  clarified  butter, 
it  will  keep  for  several  days  in  cool  weath- 


<  1IKESE,   ROASTED.      Grate   three 

of    fat    clieese,    mix    it    with    the 

volks  of  two  ei^s,  four   ounces   of  grated 

oread,  and  three  ounces  of  butter ;  beat  the 

w  h-i!e  well  in  a  mortar,  with  a  dessert  gpoon- 
fil  of  mustard,  and  a  little  salt  ami  pepper. 
Toast  some  bread,  cut  it  into  proper  pieces ; 
lav  the  paste,  as  above,  thick  upon  them, 
put  them  into  a  Dutch  oven  covered  with  a 
dish,  till  hot  through,  n-ni'  \e  the  di.-h,  and 
let  tin-  cheese  brown  a  little.  Se. 
ible. 

Clll.  I  AKH.        M.-lt    three- 

quarters  of  an  ounce  of  butler    in  a  tea-cup- 
am,   mix   with   it  a  quarter  of  a 


pound  of  good  clieese  finely  grated,  beat  it 
well  together ;  put  a  slice  of  toasted  bread 
into  a  dish,  and  pour  the  mixture  over  it, 
and  brown  it  with  a  salamander. 

CHEESE  TOASTED,  OR  RABBIT. 

Cut  a  slice  of  bread,  toast  it,  and  soak  it 
in  red  wine,  put  it  before  the  fire;  cut  some 
cheese  in  very  thin  slices,  and  nib  some  but- 
ter over  tin-  1  »>!  torn  of  a  plate,  lay  the  cheese 
upon  it,  and  pour  in  two  or  three  spoonfuls 
of  white  wine,  and  a  little  mustard;  cover 
it  with  another  plate,  and  set  it  on  a  chafing- 
dish  ot "coals  two  or  three  minutes,  then  stir 
it  till  it  is  well  mixed ;  when  it  is  mixed 
enough,  lay  it  upon  die  bread,  and  brown  it 
with  a  salamander. 

CHEESE  TOASTED.  Cut  a  slice  of 
bread  alx >nt  half  an  inch  thick  ;  pare  off  die 
crust,  and  toast  it  very  slightly  on  one  side 
so  as  just  to  brown  it,  without  making  it 
hard  or  burning  it.  Cut  a  slice  of  good 
fat  mellow  cheese,  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  not  so  big  as  the  bread  by  half  an 
inch  -in  each  aide:  pare  off  the  rind,  cut  out 
all  the  species  and  rotten  parts,  and  lay  it 
on  the  toasted  bread  in  a  cheese-toaster; 
carefully  \\atch  it  tliat  it  does  not  bum,  and 
stir  it  \\ith  a  spoon  to  prevent  a  pellicle 
lorming  on  the  surface.  Have  ready  good 
mustard,  pepper  and  salt.  If  you  observe 
the  directions  here  given,  the  cheese  will 
eat  mellow,  and  will  be  uniformly  done, 
and  the  bread  crisp  and  soft,  and  will  well 
deserve  its  ancient  appellation  of  a  "  rare 
bit."  This  Receipt,  as  well  as  every  other 
worth  extracting,  is  from  the  Cook's  Oracle. 
The  Editor  goes  on  to  say.  We  have  noth- 
ing to  add  lo  the  directions  given  for  toa-t- 
ini;  the  chi-esc  iii  tlie  last  receipt,  except  that 
in  sending  it  up,  it  will  save  much  time  in 
|xirt  ioniii^  jt  out  at  table,  if  you  have  half  a 
dozen  small  silver  or  tin  pan*  to  fit  into  the 
clieese-toaster,  and  do  the  clieese  in  these: 
each  person  may  then  be  helped  to  a  sepa- 
rate pun,  and  it  will  keep  the  clieese  much 
liolter  than  the  usual  way  of  eating  it  on  a 
cold  plate.  Obs. — Ceremony  seldom  tri- 
umphs more  completely  o\er  comfort  than  in 
the  serving  out  of  this  dish;  which,  to  be 
presented  to  the  palate  in  perfection,  it  is 
imperainely  incli-|«-nsal)le  tli.it  it  be  intro- 
duced to  the  mouth  as  soon  as  it  appears  on 

the  t.dile. 

CHERRY  I'.KAMIV.  (1)  Pick  and 
bruise  right  pounds  ofblack  maroon*,  and  the 
Balm-quantity  of  small  black  clierries  ;  let  them 
stand  lor  t\\o  months  in  a  cask  \\ith  six 
gallons  of  brandy,  two  pounds  of  crushed 
sugar,  and  a  quart  of  sirk  well  ctirred  to- 
At  ih«-  end  <f  that  time  it  may  b> 
drawn  off  and  l»ttied. 


CHI 


48 


CHI 


CHERRY  BRANDY.  (2)  Choose 
fine  sound  morella  cherries,  and  having 
taken  off  the  stalks,  place  them  in  layers 
in  glass  jars ;  strew  powder-sugar  between 
each  layer,  and  cover  them  with  brandy. 
As  soon  as  the  cherries  have  imbibed  the 
brandy,  pour  in  more,  so  as  to  keep  them 
constantly  covered. 

CHERRIES,  DRIED.  Take  large 
cherries,  not  too  ripe ;  pick  off  the  stalks, 
and  take  out  the  stones  with  a  quill  cut 
nearly  as  for  a  pen:  to  three  pounds  of  which 
take  three  pounds  or  pints  of  clarified  sugar ; 
boil  it  to  the  degree  of  blown ;  put  in  the 
cherries,  give  them  a  boil,  and  set  them  by 
in  an  earthen  pan  till  the  next  day;  then 
strain  the  sirup,  add  more  sugar,  and  boil 
it  of  a  good  consistence;  put  the  cherries  in, 
and  boil  them  five  minutes,  and  set  them  by 
another  day:  repeat  the  boiling  two  more 
days,  and  when  wanted,  drain  them  some- 
time, and  lay  them  on  wire  sieves  to  diy  in 
a  stove,  or  nearly  cold  oven. 

CHERRY  PUDDING.  See  Puddings. 

CHERVIL,  Is  principally  used  in  soups 
and  stuffing,  and  is  generally  preserved  with 
other  herbs  as  follow  s :  take  of  sorrel,  chervil, 
beet,  purslain,  and  cucumbers,  if  in  season, 
quantities  according  to  your  liking;  wash 
them  well;  mince  and  press  them  in  your 
hand,  to  squeeze  out  all  the  water.  Put 
them  into  a  kettle  with  water,  some  butter 
and  salt,  and  boil  them  until  the  water  is 
entirely  consumed.  Then  take  them  out, 
and  when  cold,  put  them  into  pots;  cover 
them  with  warmed  butter.  When  you 
want  to  use  these  herbs,  put  them  into  some 
stock  that  has  very  little  salt  in  it.  If  tliey 
are  required  for  a  farce  or  garnish,  boil  them 
a  minute  or  two  in  some  butter;  thicken 
with  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  milk;  when  so 
prepared,  they  may  be  served  under  hard 
eggs  or  broiled  fish.  For  sauce,  it  must  be 
chopped  small,  boiled  in  salt  and  water,  and 
mixed  with  melted  butter. 

CHESTNUTS,  Should  be  placed  on  the 
fire  in  a  pan  with  holes  to  roast ;  first  slitting 
or  cutting  a  notch  in  the  skins,  to  pi-event 
their  flying  off.  When  done,  serve  them  in 
dessert  on  a  napkin,  as  hot  as  possible. 
Some  boil  the  chestnuts  instead  of  roasting 
them,  as  the  skins  are  then  cleaner,  but  the 
nuts  not  quite  so  mealy;  the  better  way 
is  to  boil  them  in  plenty  of  water,  and 
when  nearly  done,  take  them  out  and  roast 
them. 

CHICKENS.  Having  picked  the  chick- 
ens, singe  them  well  to  remove  all  the  hairs, 
'&c.,  which  may  remain  on  the  skin;  then 


bruise  the  bone  close  to  the  foot,  and  draw 
the  strings  from  the  thigh.  Take  out  the 
crop  by  a  slit  cut  in  the  back  of  the  neck; 
then  cut  off  the  neck,  leaving  skin  enough  Jo 
turn  over  the  back.  Cut  off  the  vent,  and 
take  out  the  inside,  l>eing  careful  not  to  break 
the  gall ;  break  the  hack-bone  and  the  two 
bones  leading  to  the  pinions ;  wi)>e  the  chick- 
en with  a  cloth,  and  put  in  a  little  pepper 
and  salt.  If  the  chicken  is  to  l)e  trussed  lor 
roasting,  proceed  as  follows: — Turn  the  legs 
close  down  to  the  apron  and  run  a  skewer 
through ;  run  another  skewer  in  the  joint  of 
one  wing  through  the  liody  to  (he  other  wing ; 
and  Inning  washed  the  liver  and  <ri/,/.ard, 
place  them  in  the  pinions.  For  boiling,  the 
under  part  of  the  thigh  must  he  cut,  and  the 
legs  placed  under  the  apron,  only  letting  die 
ends  be  seen.  Be  sure  to  preserve  the  breast 
very  full. 

CHICKEN  BROTH.     See  Broth. 

CHICKENS,  BROILED  OR  GRILL- 
ED. Pick  and  singe  them  nicely,  wash 
them  clean,  and  dry  them  in  a  cloth  ;  cut  them 
down  the  hack,  truss  the  legs  and  wings,  as 
for  boiling;  flatten  them,  and  put  them  upon 
a  cold  gridiron;  when  they  become  a  little 
dry,  put  them  upon  a  plate,  baste  them  with 
butter,  and  strew  a  little  salt  and  pepper 
over  the  inside,  which  part  is  laid  first  upon 
the  gridiron;  baste  them  frequently,  and  let 
them  broil  slowly  for  alxnit  half  an  hour. 
Serve  them  very  hot,  with  melted  butter 
poured  over  them,  or  plenty  of  stewed  mush- 
rooms. The  livers  and  gizzards  may  be 
broiled  with  them,  fastened  into  the  wings, 
or  well  seasoned,  broiled,  and  served  with 
the  chickens. 

CHICKEN  BAKED  IN   RICE.     Cut 

a  chicken  into  joints  as  for  a  fricassee,  sea- 
son it  well  with  pepper  god  salt,  lay  it  into  a 
pudding  dish  lined  with  slices  of  ham  or  ba- 
con, add  a  pint  of  veal  gravy,  and  an  onion 
finely  minced ;  fill  up  the  dish  with  boiled 
rice  well  pressed  and  piled  as  high  as  the 
dish  will  hold,  cover  it  with  a  |>oste  of  flour 
and  w  ater ;  bake  it  one  hour,  and  before  serv- 
ing lake  off  the  paste. 

CHICKENS    BOILED.     (1)     Put  the 

chickens  into  a  saucepan  by  themselves,  and 
boil  a  small  one  for  fifteen,  a  larger  one 
twenty  minutes. 

CHICKENS  BOILED.  (2)  When  they 
are  drawn  and  trussed,  lay  the  chickens  in 
skim  milk  for  alxiut  two  hours ;  then  put 
them  into  cold  water,  cover  them  close,  and 
set  them  over  a  slow  fire,  and  skim  them 
well.  As  soon  as  they  have  boiled  slowly, 
take  them  from  the  fire,  and  let  them  remain 


CHI 


49 


CHI 


in  the  water  close  covered  for  half  ;wi  hour ; 
then  drain  and  serve  with  white  sauce. 

CHICKEN,  BROILED.  Split  a  couple 
of  chic-kens,  take  out  the  inside-  and  back- 
bones, beat  them  with  a  wooden  s; 
them  in  clarified  hatter,  and  broil  them,  the 
in-idc  next  the  lire  (which  .-hould  be  of 
charcoal),  and  only  turn  them  to  color  them. 
Whr'i  done,  |xinr  on  tliem  a  sauce  made  as 
folio v\s  : — Boil  some  stewed  mushrooms  with 
k  :ui.l  plain  sauce,  an  e<|iial  quanti- 
t\  of  each,  until  of  a  pro|>er  eoOMtCBDBJ 
flavor  it  with  lemon-juice  and  Cayenne  jiep- 
per. 


CHICKENS  CHIRINGATE.  Having 
taken  oil"  the  feet,  lx;at  tile  bre:ist  bones  of 
your  chickens  flat  without  breaking  the  skin, 
flour  and  fry  them  in  butter  ;  when  of  a  nice 
brown  take  all  the  fat  from  tlie  |xin,  leaving 
in  llie  chickens,  over  which  lay  a  pound  of 
gra\y  la-el"  cut  in  thin  slices,  another  piece 
of  beef  also  cut  thin,  some  mace,  denes, 
pep|M-r,  an  onion,  a  carrot,  and  a  bunch  of 
il>~:  |xmr  a  quart  of  boiling  water 
t>\er  the  whole,  co\cr  it  (|ilite  do-e,  and  let 
it  stew ;  in  a  qaart'-r  of  an  hour  take  out 
the  chickens,  but  let  the  gravy  continue 
boiling,  and  when  very  rich  strain  it;  then 
put  it  auain  into  the  pun  u  ith  a  little  red 
wine  and  a  f-w  mushrooms;  tlK-n  put  in  the 
chic-kens,  and  when  they  are  hot,  disli  them 
up,  anil  pour  the  sauce  over  them;  garnish 
with  slices  of  lemon  and  broiled  ham. 

nilCKKNSCRK.ME.     (1)     Parboil  a 

couple  of  young  chic-kens,  cut  them  in  pieces, 
and  throw  into  warm  water  for  half  an  hour; 
then  do  them  over  the  lire  in  a  little  fresh 
butter,  with  salt,  |>arslc-y,  pepper,  morels, 
&c.  sprinkle  with  llour,  and  dilute  w  ith  a 
glasa  of  boiling  water;  cover  the  stewpan 
close,  and  let  it  stand  on  hot  ashes  until  the 
water  Itts  sojike-d  into  the  chicken,  then  add 
half  a  pint  of  cream  and  a  little  butter.  The 
yilks  of  tlint-  c_'^s  may  be  put  in  also,  but 
in  that  ca.-e,  a  .-mall  quantity  of  verjuice 
should  be  put  in  before  tlie  cream. 

CIHCKlvXSCREME.  (2)  Stuff  and 
ro:ut  \oiir  chic-kens,  and  wlten  you  take  them 
from  the  r-pit,  rub  them  with  buti< 
ili'-m  with  bread-crumb*,  wrap  them  in 
I  neon.  a-id  bake  them  a  short  time ; 
.-  i  ..•  with  well  thirkened  cream-sauce. 

(  IIICKKN  CROQUETTES.  (1)  Re- 

dace  two  :-|Xionfuls  of  veloute  or  sauce  tour- 
neerand  add  to  it  tlie  yolks  of  f 
put  to    tins  the    white    meat    of  a   chicken 
niiiic-eil  \ery  small,  and  well  mixed  with  the 
.ke  it  out,  and  roll  it  into  lulls  about 
the  size  of  a  walnut ;  roll  them   in  bread- 
5 


crumbs,  giving  them  an  elongated  form ; 
tlien  clip  them  in  some  well-beaten  egg, 
bread  tin-in  again,  and  fry  them  of  a  light 
brown. 

CHICKEN  CROQUETTES.  (2)  Mix 

well  into  some  \e-ry  thick  bechamtlle  and 
sonic  gla/e  the  breast  of  a  chicken,  some 
lonuue,  irutlles  and  mushrooms  all  minced 
very  small;  when  quite  cold  roll  them  into 
little,  balls  aljout  die  size  of  a  nut,  and  hav- 
ing Ix-alen  up  three  eggs  throw  the  kills  into 
tliem.  Take  them  out  quickly  and  roll  them 
in  bread-crumbs;  dip  them  a  second  time 
into  the  eggs,  and  cover  them  again  with 
bread-cruuibe ;  fry  them  as  other  croquette*. 
Lay  filed  parsley  on  a  napkin  in  a  dish, 
place  the  croquettes  on,  and  round  it,  and 


CHICKEN  CURRY.  Take  tlie  skin 
off,  cut  up  a  chicken,  and  roll  each  piece  in 
curry-powder  and  flour  (mixed  together  a 
s|xxinf'ul  of  (lour  to  half  an  ounce  of  curry) 
fry  two  or  three  sliced  onions  in  butter; 
when  of  a  light  brown,  put  in  die  meat  and 
fry  them  together  till  the  meat  becomes 
brown;  then  stew  tliem  togedier  with  a  lit- 
tle water  for  two  or  three  hours.  More 
w ater  may  be  added  if  '.oo  thick. 

CHICKEN  CAPILOTADE.  Put  into 
a  >t  upaii  a  little  butter  and  llour;  add 
mushroom-,  parsley,  and  shallots  cut  small, 
dilute  1 1  ie-.-e  with  equal  quantites  of  stock,  and 
red  or  white  wine.  When  the  sauce  is  well 
lulled,  skim  it;  cut  a  roasted  fowl  in  pieces, 
and  put  it  into  this  sauce;  stew  it  gently 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Add  some  gherk  ine 
cut  in  thin  slices. 

CHICKEN,  COLD  FRIED.     Cut  the 

chicken  in  quarters,  and  take  off  die  skin, 
nib  it  with  an  egg  beaten  up,  and  cover  it 
widi  grated  bread  seasoned  with  pepper, 
salt,  grated  lemon-peel,  and  chopped  parsley, 
fry  it  in  butter,  thicken  a  little  brown  gravy 
with  llour  and  butter,  add  a  little  Cayenne', 
lemon  pickle,  and  mushroom  catchup. 

CHICKENS  .FRICASSEED.  Prepare 
and  cut  up  two  chickens;  put  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  some  butter,  parsley,  a  bay- 
leaf,  thyme,  liasil,  two  cloves,  mushroom, 
and  a  .-lice  of  ham ;  let  the.n  stew  ti 
ly  any  sauce  remains,  then  add  a  little  flour, 
warm  water,  salt  and  pepper;  stew  it  again 
and  reduce  the  sauce.  When  nearly  done 
put  in  die  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  up 
widi  a  little  cream  or  milk;  thicken  it  over 
the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil ;  a  small  qtran- 
tiu  of  li •moil-juice  or  vinegar  may  be  added. 
Place  the  breasts  and  bones  of  the  chickens 
on  a  dish,  lay  tlie  legs  and  wings  over  them. 


CHI 


50 


CHI 


and  then  pour  the  sauce  over  the  whole ; 
garnish  with  the  mushrooms.  Take  off  the 
skins  before  you  cut  up  the  chickens  if  you 
wish  die  fricassee  very  white. 

CHICKEN  FRITTERS.  Make  a  bat- 
ter with  four  eggs,  some  new  milk,  and 
rice-flour ;  to  this,  add  a  pint  of  cream,  pow- 
der-su«;ar,  candied  lemon-peel  cut  small, 
fresh  lemon-peel  grated,  and  the  white  parts 
of  a  roasted  chicken  shred  small;  set  all 
those  together  on  a  stove,  and  stir  well  for 
sometime;  when  done,  take  it  off,  roll  out 
the  mixture,  cut  it  into  fritters,  and  fry 
them ;  strew  sugar  on  a  dish,  lay  in  the 
fritters,  strew  sugar  over,  and  serve  them 
hot. 

CHICKENS  IN  A  MINUTE.     Cut  a 

chicken  in  pieces,  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  little  butter;  add  to  it  some  mush- 
rooms, parsley,  sprinkle  flour  over,  and 
shake  them;  moisten  it  with  stock  or  water, 
and  white  w»ne;  when  it  has  boiled  once, 
take  it  from  the  fire  and  put  in  the  yolks  of 
one  or  two  eggs,  and  a  little  vinegar  or 
lemon-juice. 

CHICKENS   AND  OYSTERS.     Fill 

your  chickens  with  young  oysters  cut  small, 
truffles,  parsley,  and  spices,  and  roast  them. 
Blanch  about  two  dozen  young  oysters,  and 
toss  them  up  in  some  melted  butter,  with 
chopped  herbs  and  olive  oil.  When  they 
have  been  on  the  fire  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
add  a  little  white  wine  and  half  a  glass  of 
good  stock,  thicken  it  over  the  fire  for  an- 
other quarter  of  an  hour,  and  when  the 
chickens  are  ready  to  serve,  pour  the  sauce 
on  them,  and  garnish  the  dish  with  oysters 
and  some  lemon. 

CHICKEN  PANADA.  Boil  a  chicken 
in  a  quart  of  water  until  nearly  (lone;  then 
skin  it,  cut  off  the  white  meat,  and  pound 
it  with  a  little  of  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in 
to  a  thick  paste ;  season  it  with  salt,  nut- 
meg, and  lemon-peel;  boil  it  up  all  together 
for  a  few  minutes. 

CHICKEN    AND    HAM    POTTED. 

Season  some  pieces  of  chicken,  with  mace, 
cloves,  and  pepper,  and  bake  them  for  about 
three  hours  in  a  close  covered  pan  with 
some  water ;  then  pound  them  quite  small, 
moistening  either  with  melted  butter,  or  the 
liquor  they  were  baked  in.  Pound  also 
some  ham,  and  put  this  with  the  chicken  in 
alternate  layers,  in  potting  pans,  press  them 
down  tight,  and  cover  them  with  butter. 


legs,  break  the  bones,  and  boil  them  hi  a 
little  water  till  the  strength  be  drawn  out, 
strain  it,  and  when  it  becomes  cold  skim 
and  put  it  into  a  sauce  pan  with  a  little  mace, 
white  pepper,  and  salt;  add  a  bit  of  butter 
mixed  with  flour,  and  ratlier  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream,  then  put  in  the 
meat,  and  a  little  mushroom  powder ;  before 
serving,  add  the  squeeze  of  a  lemon. 

CHICKEN  PULLED.  (2)  Pick  all  the 
white  meat  from  the  bones  of  a  cold  roasted 
fowl,  cut  off  the  legs,  and  keep  the  back  and 
sidesmen  in  one.  Score,  and  season  tlie  legs 
and  back  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  broil 
them;  warm  up  the  white  meat  in  some 
sauce  made  of  the  txmes  boiled  in  a  little 
water,  and  which  lias  been  strained  and 
thickened  with  a  piece  of  butter,  mixed  with 
flour,  a  little  milk,  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg 
beaten  up  and  seasoned  with  white  pepper 
and  salt ;  serve  the  broiled  back  upon  the 
mince,  and  the  legs  at  each  end. 

CHICKEN  PIE.     See  Pie. 
CHICKEN  ROASTED.     See  Fowls. 

"•mJICKENS,   SCOTCH  WAV.     Cut 

yoftr  chickens  into  quarters,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan,  with  only  just  water  enough  to 
cover  them,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  some  chop- 
ped parslev,  and  a  little  mace,  cover  them 
close  down,  when  it  boils,  add  six  eggs 
well-beaten ;  when  the  chickens  are  done, 
take  out  the  parsley,  and  serve  them  in  a 
deep  dish  with  the  sauce. 

CHICKENS  AND  TOMATA  SAUCE. 

Mix  together,  in  a  stewpan,  a  little  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  lemon-juice,  and  grated  nut- 
meg, a  sufficient  quantity  to  put  in  two  chick- 
ens ;  tie  it  in,  and  lay  thin  slices  of  lemon 
on  the  breast  of  the  chickens,  and  lay  them 
in  a  stewpan  lined  with  thin  rashers  of  ba- 
con; cover  them  witJi  tlie  same,  and  stew 
them  with  fire  above  and  below  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour;  when  done,  drain  them 
in  a  cloth ;  untie  them,  tind  serve  with  toma- 
ta  sauce. 

CHINA  CHILO.  Mince  a  pint  basin 
of  undressed  neck  of  mutton,  or  leg,  and 
some  of  tlie  fat;  put  two  onions,  a  lettuce,  a 
pint  of  green  peas,  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper, 
four  spoonfuls  of  water,  and  two  or  three 
ounces  of  clarified  butter,  into  a  stewpan 
closely  covered ;  simmer  two  hours,  and  serve 
I  in  the  middle  of  a  dish  of  boiled  dry  rice.  If 
Cayenne  is  approved,  add  a  little. 


CHICKEN  PULLED.  (1)  Half  roast  CHILI,  OR  CAYENNE  WINE.  Pound 
a  chicken  or  fowl,  skin  and  pull  off  in  small  j  and  steep  fifty  fresh  red  Chilies,  or  a  quar- 
flakes  all  the  white  meat  and  tlie  meat  of  the  j  ter  of  an  ounce  of  Cayenne  pepper,  in  half 


CHO 


51 


CHO 


a  pint  of  brandy,  white  wine,  or  claret,  for 
fourteen  days.  This  is  a  "  bonne  bouche" 
for  the  lovers  of  Cayenne,  of  which  it  takes 
up  a  larger  proportion  of  its  flavor  than  of 
it.-  fire:  which  Ix-ing  instantly  diffused,  it  is 
a  very  useful  auxiliary  to  warm  and  finish 
soups,  sauces,  &c. 

CHOCOLATE.  According  as  you  wish 
to  make  this  beverage,  either  w  itli  milk  or 
water,  put  a  cup  of  one  or  oilier  of  these 
liquids  into  a  chocolate-|>oi,  with  one  ounce 
of  cake  chocolate.  Some  persons  dissoKe 
the  chocolate  in  a  little  water  Ixjfore  they  put 
it  into  tin-  milk.  As  soon  as  the  milk  or 
water  begins  to  boil,  mill  it.  When  the 
chocolate  is  dissolved,  and  begins  to  bubble, 
take  it  off  the  (in-,  letting  it  stand  near  it 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  mill  it  again 
to  make  it  frothy;  afterwards  serve  it  out 
in  cups.  The  chocolate  must  not  be  milled, 
unless  it  is  prewired  with  cream. 

CHOCOLATE  CREAM.    See  Creams. 

CHOCOLATE  FROTHED  OR  WHIP- 
PED. 1'ut  lialf  a  pound  of  chocolate  to  a 
glass  of  water  <.\cr  a  small  (ire,  stirring  it 
with  a  wooden  s|>oon  until  perfectly  dk-olv- 
ed ;  then  take  it  off  and  add  six  yolks  of 
eggs,  a  pint  of  double  cream,  and  three 
quarters  of  a  [xuniil  of  lewder-sugar.  Pour 
tile  whole  into  a  pan.  and  when  cold,  whip 
it  up  as  directed.  SEE  Cream  Frothed. 

CHOCOLATE  WINE.  Take  a  pint  of 
Sherry-,  or  a  pint  and  a  lialf  of  Port,  four 
ounces  and  a  half  of  chocolate,  six  ounces  of 
fine  sugar,  and  half  an  ounce  of  white  starch, 
or  line  lie. in- ;  mix,  dissolve,  and  boil  all  these 
together  for  almut  ten  or  twelve  minutes. 
But  if  your  chocolate  is  made  with  sugar, 
take  donMe  the  quantity  of  chocolate,  and 
half  the  quantity  of  sugar. 

CHOPS   OR  STEAKS.     Those  who 

arc  ui:-e  al*.ut  steaks,  never  attempt  to  have 
them,  except  in  weather  which  ]xTinits  the 
meat  to  !»•  him?  till  it  is  tender,  and  give  the 
butcher  .-oine  dav-'  notii-e  of  t!i<  ir  wi.-h  fir 
tliciii.  If,  friendly  reader,  you  wish  toenlei  - 
tain  your  mouth  wi'th  a  MiperUt  ive  U-cf-steak, 
ynii  mii.-t  have  the  inside  of  (lie  sirloin  cut 
into  .-teak*.  The  next  IK--I  .-li  .iks  are  tho.-e 
cut  from  tlie  middle  ,,f  a  riiiiip,  I  hat  has  Uvn 
killed  atle:i>t  loin  day-  ill  moderate  weather, 
iuid  Hindi  longer  in  cold  weather,  when  ihej 
can  lx>  cut  alxuit  six  inelie-  Ion;;,  fun  i 
wide,  and  half  an  inch  thick:  do  not  U.it 
tlic.ni,  which  vulgar  U  ick  breaks  the  cells  in 
which  the  yr.i\y  of  the  meat  is  contained, 
and  it  Ix-comes  dry  and  ta-l.-h  ss.  V  IJ. — 
If  your  butcher  semis  steak.-  which  are  not 
tender,  we  do  in  it  insi.-t  that  \.,ii  should 


object  to  let  him  be  Ixwten.  Desire  tlie 
Ijutcher  to  cut  them  of  even  thickness;  if  he 
does  not,  divide  the  thicker  from  tlie  thinner 
pieces,  and  give  them  time  accordingly. 

CHOWDER.  I,ay  some  slices  cut  from 
the  fat  part  of  a  Ix-llv-piece  of  pork,  in  a 
deep  stewpan,  mix  sliced  onions  with  a 
variety  of  sweet  herbs,  and  lay  them  on  the 
|>ork.  Bone  and  cut  a  fresh  cod  into  thin 
.-liees,  and  place  them  on  the  pork  ;  then  put 
a  layer  of  pork,  on  that  a  layer  of  biscuit, 
then  alternately  the  other  materials  until  tlie 
pan  is'  nearly  full,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  put  in  about  a  pint  and  a  lialf  of  water, 
lay  a  paste  over  the  whole,  cover  tlie  stewpan 
very  close,  and  let  it  stand,  with  fire  above 
as  well  as  below,  for  four  hours;  then  skim 
it  well,  and  put  it  in  a  dish,  pour  a  glass  of 
.Madeira  made  hot  over  it,  also  some  Jamaica 
pepper,  stewed  mushrooms,  truffles,  and 
oysters;  brown  the  paste  slightly,  and  lay  it 
over  tlie  whole. 

CHOWDER    FOR   TEN    OR    TWELVE. 

Take  of  salt  |x>rk  cut  in  thin  slices,  as  much 
as  will  make  half  a  pint  of  fat,  when  tried, 
which  will  do  for  two  good  sized  cod  or 
haddock.  Be  careful  not  to  burn  the  fat 
First,  put  your  fat  in  the  pot.  Secondly, 
cut  your  fish  in  as  large  pieces  as  will  go 
into  the  pot ;  then  put  a  layer  of  fish  on  the 
fat ;  pepper,  salt  and  a  few  cloves,  then  a 
layer  of  the  slices  of  pork,  strewed  over  with 
onions  cut  fine ;  then  a  layer  of  shiphread 
or  hard  crackers  dipped  in  water ;  then  your 
thickening.  Go  on  again  with  fish,  &c.  &c. 
as  above,  till  your  |xit  is  nearly  full,  then  put 
in  water  until  you  can  just  see  it,  an  1  let  it 
stew  slowly,  so  as  not  to  break  tlie  fish. 
After  coming  to  a  boil,  it  will  be  done  in 
twenty-five  or  thirty  minutes.  N.  B. — Some 
like  |x>latocs  cut  in  slices,  which  may  l«  in- 
troduced between  each  layer.  Likewise 
wine  or  cider,  as  you  fancy.  QCJ-  This 
Receipt  is  according  to  the  most  approved 
method,  practised  by  fishing  parties  in  Bos- 
ton harbor. 

CHOWDER,  CL  \  M ,  May  Iw  made  in 
the  same  way,  substituting  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  clams  instead  of  cod,  the  heads 
or  hard  leathery  |>art  being  first  cat  off. 
.Many  prefer  clam  chowder,  nicely  cooked, 
to  chowder  made  of  cod,  had. lock.  &C. 
The  pilgrim!  to  Plymouth,  it  is  said,  could 
cook  this  shell  lisli  and  lolisters  i..  nearly 
fifty  dilli-icnt  wa\s,  anil  even  as  puddings, 
pancakes,  &c. 

C1IOUX.  Put  a  pint  of  water  into  a 
slew  pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butler, 
the  rim!-  of  twu  lemons  grated,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  a  very  little  salt; 


coc 


COD 


as  sxm  as  the  water  begins  to  boil,  add  as 
much  flour  as  the  liquor  will  imbibe;  when 
the  paste  becomes  very  thick,  keep  stirring 
with  a  spoon  until  quite  done,  then  let  it 
cool.  After  that,  break  into  it  a  sufficient 
(•after  of  egg!  to  make  the  paste  soft ;  taking 
rare  that  it  he  firm  enough  to  allow  you  to 
work  it  up  with  the  hand ;  when  it  may  In- 
formed according  to  fancy.  This  paste  may 
be  glazed  and  garnished  either  with  almonds 
or  pistachio  nuts;  when  baking  the  chour, 
be  careful  to  keep  the  oven  tightly  closed. 

CITRON  CHEESECAKES.  Boil  a 
pint  of  cream,  and  when  cold,  mix  with  it 
two  eggs  well-beaten ;  then  boil  them  togeth- 
er until  they  become  a  curd.  Beat  a  feu 
blanched  almonds  in  a  mortar,  with  a  little 
orange-flower  water;  put  them  to  the  curd, 
and  add  some  Naples  biscuits  and  green  cit- 
ron, chopped  very  small.  Sweeten,  and  bake 
in  tins. 

CITRON  PUDDING.     See  Puddings. 

CLARET  PUFFS.  Mix  together,  and 
sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  pint  of 
claret,  and  rather  more  than  one  of  rich 
cream;  let  it  stand  a  night,  and  then  whisk 
it  to  a  froth,  which  take  oft"  as  it  rises,  and 
put  upon  the  back  of  a  sieve  to  drain ;  heap 
it  upon  a  dish,  sweeten  some  rich  cream, 
and  pour  it  round  the  froth,  to  make  it  float. 

CLOVE,  ESSENCE  OF.  Infuse  a 
drachm  of  oil  of  cloves  in  two  ounces  of 
the  strongest  spirits  of  wine,  apothecary's 
measure. 

CLOVE  WATER.  Mix  a  little  cinna- 
mon with  the  cloves,  or  the  scent  will  l>e 
too  strong;  allow  half  a  score  of  cloves  to  a 
quart  of  water;  put  in  a  good  piece  of 
sugar;  let  them  infuse  some  time  over  hot 
embers,  or  in  a  warm  place;  then  strain  it 
for  use. 

COBBLER.  Name  given  U»  bread 
toasted  on  one  side  only. 

COCHINEAL  PREPARED.  Pound 
an  ounce  of  cochineal  to  a  very  fine  powder, 
pound  also  an  ounce  of  cream  of  tartar,  and 
two  drachms  of  alum;  put  these  ingredients 
into  a  saucepan  with  half. a  pint  of  water; 
when  it  boils  take  it  from  the  lire,  and  let 
it  cool ;  pour  it  oft'  into  a  bottle,  as  free  from 
sediment  as  possible,  and  set  it  by  for  use. 

COCOA.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  ounce 
of  good  cocoa  and  one  quart  of  water;  cover 
it,  and  when  it  boils,  set  it  In  the  side  of  the 
fire  to  simmer  for  two  hours.  It  is  some- 
times made  in  a  larger  quantity,  poured 


from  the  sediment,  and  boiled  up  as  it  IB  re- 
quired. 

COCOA-NUT   SWEETMEAT.      (1) 

Cut  the  nut  out  of  the  shell,  jvire  it  carefully, 
and  throw  it  into  cold  water;  then  grate  it, 
andlxiil  it  in  clarified  sugar,  (a  pound  to  each 
jxjund  of  the  cocoa-nut;  until  quite  thick; 
stir  it  frequently  to  prevent  its  burning. 
Then  pour  it  on  a  well  buttered  dish  or  mar- 
ble slab,  and  cut  it  into  whatever  forms  you 
1  think  proper. 

COCOA-NUT   SWEETMEAT.      (2) 

Proceed  as  above,  but  do  not  boil  the  sugar 
so  thick  by  a  great  deal;  then  stir  into  it 
whilst  hot  the  yolks  of  six  eggs;  this  must 
be  served  in  jelly  gla- 

COD.  A  cod-fish  should  be  firm  and 
white,  the  gills  red,  and  the  eye  lively;  a 
fine  fish  is  \ery  thick  alxmt  the  neck;  if  the 
flesh  is  at  all  flabby  it  is  nut  good.  Cod  la 
in  its  prime  during  the  months  of  October 
and  November,  if  the  weather  be  cold;  from 
the  latter  end  of  March  to  May,  cod  is  also 
very  fine.  The  length  of  time  it  requires 
for  boiling  depends  on  the  si/.e  of  the  fish, 
which  varies  from  one  pound  to  twenty;  a 
small  fish,  about  two  or  three  pounds  weight 
will  Ix?  stitlicientlv  boiled  in  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  or  twenty  minutes  after  the  water  boils. 
Prepare  a  cod  for  dressing  in  the  following 
manner: — empty  and  wash  it  thoroughly, 
scrape  ofTall  the  scales,  cut  open  the  Ix-lK*, 
and  wash  and  dry  it  well,  rub  a  little  salt 
inside,  or  lay  it  for  an  hour  in  strong  brine. 
The  simple  way  of  dressing  is  i>a.~  follows: — 
Tic  up  the  head,  and  put  it  into  a  fish-kettle, 
with  plenty  of  water  and  salt  in  it ;  boil  it 
gently,  and  serve  it  with  oyster  sauce.  Lay 
a  napkin  under  the  fish,  and  garnish  with 
slices  of  lemon,  horse-radish,  &c. 


COD  BAKED.  (1)  Soak  a  fine  piece 
of  the  middle  of  fresh  cod  in  melted  butter, 
with  parsley  and  sweet  herbs  shred  very  fine; 
let  it  stand  over  the  lire  lor  sometime,  and 
then  bake  it.  I*et  it  be  of  a  good  color. 

COD  BAKED.  (2)  Choose  a  fine  large 
cod,  clean  it  well,  and  open  the  under  part 
to  the  bone,  and  put  in  a  stulYing  made  with 
i  i  :ii>!cy,  .-wi'd  hcibs  sliced  fine',  an 
egg,  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg, 
mace  and  grated  lemon-ix-cl ;  put  this  inside 
the  cod,  sew  it  up,  wrap  it  in  a  buttered  pa- 
per, and  Iwike  it;  baste  it  well  with  melted 
butter. 

COD,  TO  CRIMP.  Cut  a  fresh  cod  in- 
to slices  or  steaks;  lay  them  for  three  hours 
in  salt-and-water,  and  a  glass  of  vinegar: 
when  they  may  lx;  boiled,  fried,  or  broiled 


COF 


53 


COF 


COD  PIE.     See  Pie. 

COD  SOUNDS.  This  ia  the  white  skin 
of  die  belly,  and  is  reckoned  a  great  delica- 
cy, and  may  be  either  boiled,  bruited,  or 
fried.  Previous  to  dressing  either  way,  they 
should  be  well  soaked,  washed,  and  boiled  a 
little. 

COD  SOUNDS,  BOILED  WITH  GRA- 

FY.  Scald  tin-ill  in  hot  water,  and  rub  them 
well  wilh  salt  ;  blanch  them,  that  is,  take  off 
thi-  Marked  dirty  skin,  then  set  them  on  in 
cold  water,  and  let  them  simmer  till  they 
beuin  to  1«  tender;  take  them  nut,  flour,  and 
broil  them  on  tile  gridiron.  In  tile  mean- 
time, take  a  little  good  gravy,  a  little  mus- 
tard, a  little  liit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  give 
it  a  lx>il,  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Lay  tile  sounds  in  your  dish,  and  pour  die 
sauce  over  them. 

COD  SOI  -ND.S,  BROILED.    Letthem 

lie  in  (toiling  water  till  it  is  nearly  cold,  rub 
them  uiih  .-alt,  and  pull  off  the  black  and 
dirty  skin,  Imil  them  in  hot  water,  drain, 
and  dust  them  with  flour,  rub  them  over 
with  Uitler,  season  with  white  pepper  and 
Kilt,  and  broil  them.  Put  a  table-spoonful 
of  catchup,  half  a  one  of  soy,  and  a  little  Cay- 
enne, into  melted  butter,  heat  and  pour  it  over 
them. 

COD  SOUNDS,  ROASTED  OR  BAKED. 

\\  ash  and  clean  four  or  five  cod  sounds,  and 
bod  ill.  'in  till  nearly  done  in  milk-and-water  ; 
when  cold,  make  a  forcemeat  of  bread 
crumbs;  a  piece  of  butter,  salt,  nutmeg, 
white  |M-ppcr,  and  some  chop|>ed  ovsters; 
beat  up  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  to  bind  it,  lay- 
it  over  the  sounds,  roll  tin-in  up,  and  la-ten 
wilh  a  small  skewer,  baste  them  with  melted 
Imticr.  and  roll  tln-m  in  finely  grated  bread 
crumbs  seasoned  with  |u-p|x-r  and  salt;  put 
them  on  a  tin  in  a  Dutch  o\en,  turn  and 
ba-te  them  wilh  a  featlier  dipped  in  melted 
butter,  and  strew  over  bread  crumbs  as  be- 
fore ;  uh'-n  done,  and  ofa  nice  brown,  nerve 
tliem  \\ilh  oyster  sauce  in  the  dish. 

COD'S  HEAD  AND  SHOULDERS, 

To  Hon..  Wash  it  clean;  tie  it  up,  and 
dry  it  with  a  cloth.  All  nv  in  the  propor- 
tion of  c\i-ry  three  measures  of  water,  one  of 
wilt;  wlx-n  it  Uiils  take  oflf  the  scum;  put 
in  the  lish,  and  kit-p  it  boiling  \ery  la.-l  fir 
twenty-live  or  thirty  minutes.  Serve  with 
tin-  KM-  mid  ,,,il(  parboiled,  cut  into  slices, 
and  fried,  and  garnish  wilh  curled  parsley 
and  In.  isc-radish.  Sauces:  —  .\>lei,  inched 
butter,  DI  anch..\y  luiller. 


TV    c,«i,  .-,>,(    should   be 
three  parts  full  of  lx,jli,i_r  u.ii,.,-;  tlie  milit- 


ia to  be  added  a  spoonful  at  a  time,  and  well 
stirred  between  each ;  then  boil  gently,  still 
stirring  to  prevent  the  mixture  from  boiling 
over  as  the  coffee  swells,  and  to  force  it  into 
combination  with  tile  water,  this  will  be  ef- 
fected in  a  few  minutes,  after  which,  the 
most  gentle  boiling  must  IK-  kept  up  during 
an  hour.  The  coffee  must  then  be  i-cmn\ed 
from  the  fire  to  settle,  one  or  two  spoonfuls 
of  cold  water  thrown  in  assists  the.  clarifica- 
tion, and  precipitates  die  grounds.  In  about 
an  hour,  or  as  soon  as  the  liquor  has  become 
clear,  it  is  to  be  poured  into  another  vessel, 
taking  care  not  to  disturb  the  sediment. 
Coffee  made  in  this  manner  will  be  of  the 
finest  flavor,  and  may  tie  kept  three  day* 
in  summer,  and  four  or  five  in  winter;  when 
ordered  for  use,  it  only  requires  heating  in 
die  coffee-pot,  and  may  be  served  up  at  two 
minutes'  notice.  Coffee  should  never  be 
roasted  but  at  the  precise  time  of  its  being 
used,  and  then  it  should  be  watched  with 
the  greatest  care,  and  made  of  a  gold  color 
rather  than  a  brown  one ;  above  all,  take  care 
not  to  burn  it,  for  a  very  few  grains  burnt 
will  be  sufficient  to  communicate  a  bitter 
and  rancid  taste  to  several  pounds  of  coffee. 
Jt  is  the  best  way  to  roast  it  in  a  roaster, 
(over  a  charcoal  fire),  which  turns  with  tlie 
hand,  as  by  that  means  it  is  not  forgot,  which 
often  is  the  case  when  on  a  spit  before  die 
fire. 

COFFEE,  FRENCH  METHOD  OF 
PREPARING.  1st.  Let  your  coffee  be  dry, 
not  in  the  least  mouldy  or  damaged. — 2d. 
Divide  the  quantity  lhat  is  to  be  roasted  into 
two  parts. — 3d.  Roast  the  first  part  in  a 
coder-  roaster,  the  handle  of  which  must  be 
kept  constantly  turning  until  the  coffee  be- 
comes tile  color  of  dried  almonds  or  bread  - 
raspings,  and  has  lost  one  eighth  of  its 
weight. — llh.  I  toast  the  second  |>art  until 
it  assumes  the  fine  br»\\n  color  of  clu.-tniits, 
and  has  lost  OIK-  tilth  of  its  \\cight. — 5th. 
Mix  the  two  parts  together,  and  grind  them 
in  a  coffee  mill. — 6th.  Do  not  roast  or  make 
your  collee  until  the  day  it  is  u anted. — 7th. 
To  two  ounces  of  ground  coffee,  jwit  four 
cups  of  cold  water.  Draw  off  this  infusion, 
and  put  it  aside. — Sth.  Put  to  tlie  coffee 
which  remains  in  the  biggin,  three  cups  of 
lioilini:  water,  (hen  drain  it  oil' and  add  this 
inl'n.-i'/'i  to  that  which  has  Ix-cii  put  aside. 
By  thi.-  method  you  obtain  three  cups  more. 
When  your  coffee  is  wanted,  In-at  it  (|iiickly 
in  a  silver  coffee-pot,  taking  care  not  to  let 
it  boil,  that  tlie  perfume  may  not  U.-  lost  by 
undergoing  any  evaporation.  Then  pour  it 
into  cu|M,  which  each  person  may  sweeten 
according  to  his  taste.  Particular  care 
shoulil  be  taken  not  to  make  roflit-  in  a  tin 
vessel;  it  should  be  made  either  in  a  China 
vessel,  or  one  of  Delft  ware,  or  in  one  of 


COL 


54 


cou 


silver.  For  a  long  time,  the  tin  bigjins,  in- 
vented by  .Monsieur  de  Belloy,  were  made 
use  of;  but  some  person  has  since  improved 
upon  Ins  plan,  by  making  them  of  silver  or 
porcelain,  which  are  found  to  lie  much  tetter. 

COFFEE  CREAM.  (1)  Mix  three 
cups  of  good  coffee  with  one  pint  of  cream, 
and  sugar  according  to  taste;  boil  them  to- 
gether, and  reduce  them  about  one-third ; 
observe  that  the  codec  must  be  done  as-  if  it 
was  for  drinking  alone,  and  settled  very  clear, 
before  you  mix  it  with  the  cream. 

COFFEE  CREAM.  (2)  Boil  a  calf's 
foot  in  water  till  it  wastes  to  a  pint  of  jellv; 
clear  oil' the  sediment  ami  lilt.  .Make  a  tea- 
cup of  eery  strong  coffee;  clear  it  with  a 
bit  of  isinglass,  to  Ix:  perfectly  bright;  pour 
it  to  the  jellv,  and  add  a  pint  of  very  good 
cream,  and  as  much  fine  Lislxi'i  sugar  as  is 
pleasant;  give  one  boil  up,  and  pour  into 
tile  dish.  It  should  jelly,  but  not  l;e  still'. 
Observe  that  your  coffee  be  fresh. 

COLLOPS.  Cut  some  veal  cutlets;  fry 
them  a  good  brown,  but  not  too  much;  take 
some  good  gravy,  thicken  it  with  a  little 
flour,  bi'il  it  a  few  minute.-;  add  Cayenne, 
catchup,  truffles,  morels,  salt,  n 
pickled,  "rated  lemon-peel;  simmer  this  up, 
just  heat  th"  coli.ips  through, add  whatgravy 
came  iVom  them,  but  do  not  let  them  boil, or 
they  will  lie  hard;  add  I'ueeiaeal  halls,  hard 
yolk  i.f  e^gs;  lay  round  little  .slice,  nf  ba- 
con, notched  and  toasted,  and  sliced  lemon. 

COLLOPS,     MINCED.        Cut     two 

pounds  of  lean  tender  beef  into  thin  slices — 
it  is  l>est  taken  from  off  the  rump,  or  round  ; 
mince  it  very  finely;  brown  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  dredging  it  with  a 
little  Hour,  then  add  the  minced  meat,  and 
1  iling  it  with  a  Ix-ater  till  of  a  nL-e 

brown  color.  Have  ready  some  highly-sea- 
soned !>••(•!'  gravy,  which,  with  the  minced 
c::!l'>]'s,  put  into  a  saucepan,  and  let  it  stew 
half  a\>  h  -nr ;  and  just  l>eforc  serving,  put  a 
titble-sjXKunful  of  mushroom  catchup,  and,  if 
liked,  some  green  pickles.  Beef  suet  is  as 
ofieii  used  as  butter  to  fry  the  collops  in. 

COLLOPS,  RUSSIAN.  Break  four  eggs 
,  into  a  stewpan,  and  mix  with  them  two 
S]X>onfuls  of  /lour,  then  half  a  glass  of  good 
Cieam,  a  spoonful  of  warm  butter,  and  a 
grain  of  salt ;  when  these  are  well  mixed  to- 
gether, |H)ur  some  of  it  into  a  large  frying-pan, 
and  fry  it  of  a  light  color  on  both  sides; 
then  take  it  out,  and  fry  more  in  the  same 
way,  like  pancakes,  until  you  have  a  dozen 
very  thin,  cut  each  in  half,  and  trim  them 
into  oblong  pieces  all  the  same  size:  lay  on 
each  some  quenelle,  minced  fowl  or  game, 


as  if  for  croquettes;  wrap  the  fried  batter 
round  it,  wetting  the  edges,  that  (hey  may 
adhere  properly,  with  a  little  of  the  batter, 
having  reserved  some  for  the  purpose;  ihen 
have  ready  beaten,  six  eggs  and  a  little  salt, 
mask  till-in  with  brcad-<Tiiii]l>s,  fry  them  of  a 
good  color,  and  serve  them  quickly. 

COLLOPS,  SCOTCH.  Cut  veal  cut- 
lets (taken  from  the  fillet)  into  small  thin 
pieces,  and  fry  thf-in  in  a  little  hoilin<;  lard 
till  of  a  light  brown  color.  Drain  them  dry, 
put  them  into  a  stewpan.  add  eullis.  Mewed 
mushrooms,  some  blanched  truffles,  morels, 
pieces  of  artichoke  bottoms,  some  slices  of 
throat  sweetbread.:,  and  egg  balls.  Let 
tilt-in  simmer  over  a  slow  lire  till  tender, 
season  to  the  palate,  and  serve  them  with 
ras!i;Ts  of  broiled  bacon  round  them. 

COLD  MEAT  BROILED,  WITH 
POACHED  EGGS.  The  inside  of  a  sirloin 
of  Iv;.'/'  is  best  tiir  this  di^h,  or  a  leg  of  mut- 
ton. Cut  the  .-licesof  even  and  equal  thick- 
ness, and  broil  and  brown  them  tarofiilly 
ant!  slightly  over  a  clear  smart  (ire,  or  in  a 
Dutch  oven;  give  those  slices  most  fire  that 
are  least  done;  la\  them  in  a  dish  Ix-fore  the 
(ire  to  keep  hot,  while  you  |x>ach  the  eggs, 
and  mash  potatoes. 

COLORING  FOR  JELLIES,  CAKES, 
&c.  For  a  beautiful  red.  boil  fifteen  grains 
of  cochineal  in  the  (ine.-t  powder,  with  a 
drachm  and  a  half  of  cream  of  tartar,  in 
half  a  pint  of  water  very  slowly,  half  an 
hour.  Add,  in  boiling,  a  bit  of  alum  the 
size  of  a  pea.  Or  use  Ix-ct-root  sliced,  and 
some  liquor  poured  over.  For  white,  use 
almonds  finely  powdered  with  a  little  drop 
of  water ;  or  us;1  IT.  am.  For  ycllw-.  y  .•!!-  -• 
of  eggs,  or  a  bit  of  sa)1ro:i  steeped  in  the  li- 
quor, and  sq-.ice/ed.  For  green,  |>ound 
spinach-lea-,  e>.  or  bect-lcavcs,  esprcss  the 
juice,  and  boil  a  tea-cupful  in  a  >aucepan 
of  water,  to  take  oft' the  rawness. 

CONSO.MMF,.  Take  cbjit  or  ten 
pounds  of  beef-steaks,  eijht  old  hens,  two 
young  ones,  and  fmr  knuckles  of  Viol;  put 
o  a  large  pot,  and  till  it  with  strong 
broth;  skim  it  well,  cooling  it  three  or  lour 
times  to  make  the  scum  rise,  after  which  let 
it  boil  gently;  put  into  the  |H>t  carrots,  tur- 
nips, onions,  and  three  cl'iM's.  ^  hen  your 
meat  is  sufficiently  done,  pass  the  liquor 
through  a  fine  napkin  or  silk  sieve,  that  it 
may  lie  very  clear.  No  salt  need  be  put  in 
if  strong  broth  be  used. 

COUGLAUFFLE,  GERMAN.     Take 

three  pounds  of  (lour,  an  ounce  and  a  half 
of  yeast,  an  ounce  of  tine  salt,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,  twelve  eggs,  the  yolks  of 


cou 


55 


CRA 


twelve  more,  two  pounds  of  fresh  butter, 
three  glasses  of  milk,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds.  Proceed  \villi 
these  materials  in  tlic  following  manner:  — 
put  the  twitter  (having  slightly  wanned  half 
a  pound  of  it),  into  a  glazed  pan,  and  with 
a  l;ir_fc  wooden  spoon  work  it  up  fir  six  or 
seven  minutes;  then  put  in  two  whole  eggs, 
anil  stir  it  two  minutes  ;  then  add  three  yoiks, 
and  stir  again  two  minutes;  in  this  manner 
put  in  the  whole  number  of  eggs  anil  yolks; 
which  will  produce  a  kind  of  smooth  cream. 
Then  In  decrees  mix  in  two  pounds  of  die 
flour,  dissolve  the  yeast  in  a  jjlass.  of  warm 
milk,  strain  it  through  a  napkin,  stir  this  in 
well,  with  another  half  pound  of  flour; 
make  a  hollow  in  the  paste,  in  \\hu-li  put 
the  salt  and  sugar  in  powder;  afterwards 
pour  on  it  a  glass  of  hot  milk,  and  mix  the 
whole  together  with  the  remainder  of  the 
flour;  continue  to  work  it  up  lor  ? 

i  the  whole  ingredients  are  jii|t  in, 
adding  a  small  quantity  of  warm  milk,  whk'li 
will  render  it  smooth.  Havea  mould  ready, 
butter  it,  and  lay  the  sweet  aim*  nds,  each 
cut  in  hail",  over  the  bottom  of  the  m«uU,  in 
firms,  0:1  wliich  pour  the  paste  carefully, 
and  in  small  quantities,  so  as  not  V)  derange 
the  almonds.  Place  your  mould  in  a  warm, 
but  not  a  li.it  place,  that  the  cake  may  rise 
pro|>crly  ;  and  when  that  operation  has  taken 
place,  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven,  which 
phould  he  Kept  closed;  in  an  hour's  time 
look  nt  the  Couglaiiffle,  and  if  it  !>;•  flexible, 
and  of  a  11,'ht  coin-,  let  it  remain  thirty  or 
forty  inimues  longer;  but  if  it  be  (inn  and 
red  it  i-  .Millirie.itK  d  .me;  whea  taken  from 
the  mould,  put  it  into  the  oven  again  for  a 

COUGLAUFFLE3,    SMALL.       To 

m;ikc  :i  d.i/,1-11  small  couglauffles,  take  three 
quarters  of  a  jmiind  of  llour,  tlui-e  drachma 

.  uvo  of  sail.  l>vo  whole  e 
yolk<.  two   ounces  uf  .-uijar,  a  littfe  cream, 
and  half  u  |xmud  of  Imtter.     The  prepara- 

tion  i>  mad  •  ill.-  .-.i.ue  as  the  (icrmau  Cou- 

glaujffl".      \Vln-u   the    past*-  is  maile,  di\ide 

it  i-ii  p    iiu-l\e  e.|ii:il    (tarts;    butter  a  <\  •/.<•.  \ 

cuuli  bi.-cuit  iiD.ild.-.  and  lill  e.i.-li  \\ith  \"iir 

.  .'i,  and  Irl   tin-.  a  stand:   u  hull  risen 

•    fill  tli--    in  .uiMs,  put    tin  in    into  a 

1'i'i-U   o\eii,  HIM!    t.iue   ill  MI  out   o.s  80011   as 

of  a  light  ef,l,,r. 


{I'l'.S.  Put  into  a  saucepan  tin- 
yolk.-  i  if  sixteen  eggs,  U>e  rinds  of  two  lem- 
ons, half  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  t\\ 

;»uir  a  pint  of  boiling 
cream,  .-lining  it  quick;  set  it  on  the  tire, 
but  do  not  let  it  K>il,  Mi-iin  it  through  a 
bolting,  and  then  let  it  cool  ;  take  two 
pounds  of  Hour,  and  make  a  quarter  of  it 


into  Jeaverr  with  half  an  ounce  of  yeast  and 
a  little  warm  water,  keep  it  rather  moist, 
and  put  it  mto  a  warm  place  to  rise:  in  the 
meantime,  make  the  remainder  of  the  flour 
into  a  paste,  with  the  cream  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  Initter,  knead  it  up  five  or  six 
times;  then  put  in  the  leaven,  and  knead  it 
again  twice;  tie  it  up  in  a  floured  cloth,  and 
set  it  in  a  warm  place.  In  about  two  hours 
take  it  out,  and  cut  the  paste  in  pieces  the 
size  of  an  egg,  form  them  to  that  shape,  and 
lay  them  on  a  baking  tin,  and  leave  them 
for  half  an  hour  to  rise,  then  gild  and 
Inke  them  in  a  hot  oven;  when  done,  open 
each  on  one  side,  take  out  a  little  of  the 
crumb,  in  the  place  of  which  put  a  bit  of 
bulier  \\.irked  n;>  with  a  little  salt,  and 
serve  them. 

COURT  BOUILLON.     Cut  a   proper 

quantity  of  carrots,  onions,  celery,  and  ttir- 
:ii: .--.  a..id  put  them  into  a  saucerxin  widi 
ns|< \,  Liarli,-,  thyme,  basil,  salt,  a 
mignonette  and  cloves;  sweat  them  OUT  a 
gentle  lire;  add  white  wine,  vinegar  or 
verjuice ;  boil,  and  then  strain  it,  and  servo 
it  -with  whatever  you  may  require  it  for. 
It  is  generally  used  for  fish. 

COURT  BOUILLON  FOR  ALL 
SORTS  OF  FRESH  WATER  FISH.  Put 
some  wafer  into  a  fish-kettle,  with  a  quart 
of  white  wine,  a  slice  of  butter,  salt,  pepper, 
a  large  bunch  of  parsley  ami  young  onions,  a 
clove  of  garlic,  thyme,  Iray-k-aves,  and  basil 
all  tied  together,  some  sliced  onions  and 
some  carrots ;  boil  the  fish  in  this  court 
bouillon,  (which  will  serve  for  several  times) 
and  do  not  scale  it  ;  when  the  fish  will  ad- 
mit of  it,  take  care  to  boil  it  wrap|:e.d  in  a 
napkin,  which  makes  it  more  easy  to  take 
out  without  danger  of  breaking. 

<  'I  )\V-I  IEEL,  In  the  hands  of  a  skilful 
cook,  will  furnish  several  good  meals;  when 
boiled  tender,  cut  it  into  handsome  pieces, 
ei;,'  and  bread-crumb  them,  and  fry  them  a 
lijil  brown;  lav  them  round  a  dish,  and  put 
in  the  middle  of  it  sliced  onions  tried,  or  the 
accompaniments  ordered  for  trijx-.  The 
liquor  they  were  boiled  in  will  make 
•gap* 

CRACKNELS.  Mix  a  quart  of  flour, 
half  a  nutmeg  grated,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs 
beaten,  with  four  spoonfuls  of  roscwaler,  into 
a  stiff  p:i>lc,  uiih  cold  water;  tlicn  nib  in  a 
l«  mi  id  of  Uitter,  and  make  into  a  cracknel 
sha|>e;  [Hit  theai  into  a  kettle  of  U)iling 
water,  and  Ixiil  them  till  the\  swim;  then 
take  them  out.  and  put  them  into  cold  water; 
when  ha.d.'ni-d,  l:i\  them  out  to  dry,  and 
bake  thcai  oil  tin  plate*. 


CRE 


56 


CRE 


CRACKIS'ELS,  SMALL  SOFT.  Blanch 
half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  and  pound 
them  to  a  fine  paste,  adding  to  them  by  de- 
grees six  eggs ;  when  thoroughly  pounded, 
jxinr  on  them  .1  pound  of  powder-sugar,  the 
same  of  butter,  and  tlie  rinds  of  two  lemons 
grated ;  beat  up  these  ingredients  in  tlie 
mortar:  put  a  pound  of  flour  on  a  slab,  and 
having  poured  the  almond  paste  on  it,  knead 
them  together  until  they  are  well  incorporat- 
ed ;  roll  it  out,  and  cut  the  cracknels  into 
such  forms  as  you  may  think  proper,  rub 
them  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  strew  over  them 
powder-sugar  or  cinnamon:  then  lay  them 
on  a  buttered  tin,  and  bake  them  in  a  mode- 
rate oven,  taking  great  care  that  they  do  not 
burn.  When  done,  put  them  into  glasses, 
and  if  preserved  in  a  dry  place  they  are  tlie 
better  for  keeping. 

CRANBERRIES,  DIFFERENT  WAYS 
OF  DRESSING.  For  pies  and  puddings, 
with  a  good  deal  of  sugar.  Stewed  in  a 
jar,  with  tlie  same ;  this  way  they  eat  well 
with  bread,  and  are  very  wholesome.  Thus 
done,  pressed,  and  strained,  the  juice  makes 
a  fine  drink  for  people  in  fevers. 

CREAM,  ALMOND.  Blanch  and 
pound  to  a  paste,  with  rose  water,  six 
ounces  of  almonds,  mix  them  with  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  cream  which  has  been  boiled 
with  the  peel  of  a  small  lemon ;  add  two 
well-beaten  eggs,  and  stir  the  whole  over 
the  fire  till  it  be  thick,  taking  care  not  to 
allow  it  to  boil ;  sweeten  it,  and  when  near- 
ly cold,  stir  in  a  table-spoonful  of  orange- 
flower  or  rose  water. 

CREAM,  APPLE.  (1)  Boil  twelve 
large  apples  in  water  till  soft,  take  off  the 
peel,  and  press  the  pulp  through  a  hair  sieve 
upon  half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar; 
whip  tlie  whites  of  two  eggs,  add  them  to 
the  apples,  and  beat  all  together  till  it  lx>- 
comes  very  stiff,  and  looks  quite  white. 
Serve  it  heaped  up  on  a  dish. 

CREAM,  APPLE.  (2)  Peel  and  core 
five  large  apples ;  boil  them  in  a  little  water, 
till  soft  enough  to  press  through  a  sieve; 
sweeten,  and  beat  with  them  the  whisked 
whites  of  five  eggs.  Serve  it  with  cream 
poured  round  it. 

CREAM,  ARROW-ROOT.  Mix  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  arrow-root  with  a  tea-cupful 
of  cold  water ;  let  it  settle,  and  jxnir  the  wa- 
ter off.  Sweeten  and  boil  a  quart  of  milk 
with  the  peel  of  a  lemon  and  some  cinnamon ; 
pick  them  out,  and  pour  it  tailing  upon  the 
arrow-root,  stirring  it  well  and  frequently 
till  it  be  cold.  Serve  it  in  a  glass  or  china 
dish,  with  or  without  grated  nutmeg  on  the 


top.  It  may  be  eaten  with  any  preserved 
fruit,  or  fruit  tarts. 

CREAM,  BACCHIC.  Put  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  white  wine,  with  .some  lemon-peel, 
coriander  seed,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and  three 
ounces  of  sugar,  into  a  stewpan,  and  let 
them  boil  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  mix 
half  a  tea-spoonful  of  Hour  with  tlie  yolks  of 
six  eggs  in  another  ste\v|>an,  and  stir  in  by 
degrees  the  oilier  previously  lx>iled  ingre- 
dients. When  about  half  cold,  strain  tlie 
whole  through  a  sieve  and  put  it  in  a  dish 
in  hot  water,  over  the  fire,  till  the  cream  is 
set;  lastly,  take  it  out,  and  put  it  in  a  cool 
place  till  ready  to  serve. 

CREAM,  BARLEY.  Boil  a  small  quan- 
tity of  pearl  barley  in  milk  and  water,  till 
tender,  strain  off  the  liquor,  and  put  the 
barley  into  a  quart  of  cream,  to  boil  a  little. 
Then  take  the  whites  of  five  eggs  and  the 
yolk  of  one,  beat  them  with  one  spoonful  of 
flour,  and  two  of  orange-flower  water.  Take 
tlie  cream  from  tlie  fire,  mix  the  eggs  in  by 
degrees,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  again  to 
thicken.  Sweeten  it,  and  pour  into  cups  or 
glasses  for  use. 

CREAM,  BURNT.  Boil  a  pint  of  cream 
with  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  sweeten  it  with 
pounded  loaf  sugar;  teat,  with  the  yolks  of 
six,  and  whites  of  four  eggs,  one  table-s|x>on- 
ful  of  flour,  the  same  of  orange-flower  water 
and  of  ratafia ;  strain  the  cream,  and  when 
nearly  cold,  mix  it  with  tlie  eggs  and  other 
things ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes  as 
thick  as  a  custard;  put  it  into  the  dish  it  is 
to  be  served  in.  Boil  with  a  little  water 
some  pounded  loaf  sugar,  till  it  turn  brown, 
but  do  not  stir  it  till  taken  off  die  fire;  by 
degrees  pour  it  in  figures  over  tlie  top  of  tlie 
cream.  It  may  be  eaten  hot  or  cold. 

CREAM  CAKES.     See  Cakes. 

CREAM,  CHOCOLATE.     (1)    Take 

a  pint  of  milk,  a  gill  of  cream,  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  and  five  ounces  of  powder  ?iiL;:ir, 
mix  these  ingredients  together,  set  them  on 
the  fire,  stir  it  constantly,  and  let  it  boil  till 
reduced  to  a  quarter;  tlien  add  two  ounces 
of  grated  chocolate  ;  and  having  Ixjiled  a  lit. 
tie  longer,  strain  it,  and  let  it  cool.  Serve 
it  cold. 

CREAM,  CHOCOLATE.     (2)    Take 

about  half  a  cake  of  chocolate,  bruise  it  to 
pieces,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  milk, 
and  stir  it  over  a  gentle  fire  till  it  looks 
smooth  and  thick;  then  add  a  little  more 
milk,  and  stir  it  again  over  the  fire;  con- 
tinue this  till  it  takes  the  thickness  of  cream; 


CRE 


57 


CRE 


sweeten  it  to  vour  palate  with  clarified  su- 
gar; stir  in  a  little  thick  cream  with  a  very 
little  isinglass,  rub  it  through  the  tammy, 
and  set  it  in  the  mould. 

CREAM  CUSTARD.     See  Custard. 

CREAM  FRITTERS.  Mix  a  liandf.il 
of  flour,  with  tlir.i-  whole  ci;^s,and  the  yolks 
of  six,  lour  pounded  macaroons,  gome  dried 
orange-Hi  meis,  browned  in  sugar,  a  little 
candietl  lemon-peel  chop|x'd  very  line,  half 
a  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a 
lump  of  sugar;  boil  the  whole  OMT  a  gentle 
fire  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  till  the  cream 
turns  to  a  thick  paste ;  then  let  it  cool  in  a 
dish  well  floured,  shaking  Ilour  all  oxer  it. 
When  cold,  cut  the  paste  into  small  pieces, 
roll  them  in  your  hands  till  they  become 
round,  and  fry  them  of  a  good  color;  when 
them,  powder  them  all  oxer  \xitli 
sugar. 

..  M  FROTH.     Put  a  pint  of  fresh 

mi  into  a  stone  pan.   \vith  half  a 
pound   of  (xmder  sugar,    a   pinch  of  gum 
i   llnle  crisped  orange-flower,  and 
•  I*  of  cedrat  essence;   when  the  su- 
grir  is  dissolved,  place  the  [Kin  in  another,  in 
which  is  three  p< Hinds  of  ice  beaten  up  with 
saltpetre;   whip  the  cream  in  the  usual  man- 
ner, taking  off  the  froth  as  it  rises  with  a 
Bkimui'T,  lay  it  gently  on  a  sieve   over   a 
pan ;   if  the  cream  does  not  froth  properly, 
add  die  whites  of  two  eggs.     This  cream  is 
usually  served  in  large  silver  or  gilt  goblets, 
ild  IK-  prepared  two  or  three  hours 
it   is  x\  anted. 


;i; i :  \ M  r< >R  FRUIT  TARTS.   Boil 

l,  txvo   or  three   peach 

*  bruised  hitter  almonds,  in  a 

quart  of  milk;  strain,  sxxii-len,  and  mix  it, 

-il,  xxith  three  or  four  well-lx-aten 

,'•  it  constantly  oxer  the  fire  till  it 

It    may    !»•    eaten    xvith    slewed 

apple*,  prunes,  damsons,  or  any  other  fruit. 

\M.  IMI'KRIAL.     Boilaquartof 
>tli  (!»•  thin  rind  of  a  lemon;   then 
etir  it  till    nearly  cold;    have    ready    in    a 
Ixuxl    that   you    are   to  serve  in, 
of  three  lemons  strained,  with  as 
much  siijTir  as  xx  ill  sweeten  the  cream,  which 
pour  into  the  dish  from  a  large  teapot,  hold- 
ing it  high,  and  moving  il  alxuit  to  mix  with 
the  juice.     It  should  be  made  at  least  six 
hours  In-fore  it  i»  served,  and  will  be  still 
better  if  a  day. 

CREAM  ITALIAN.  (1)  Boil  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  milk  in  a  stexxpan,  then  add  to  it 
the  peel  of  a  voting  lemon,  some  coriander 
seed,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  ratltcr  more  than 


half  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  txvo 
or  three  grains  of  salt;  let  it  t>oil  till  half  is 
consumed ;  then  let  it  stand  to  cool,  and 
have  ready  in  anodier  atewpan  a  little  (lour, 
beat  up  with  the  yolks  of  six  eggs;  stir  it 
by  degrees  into  the  cream;  strain  it  through 
a  sieve,  and  put  it  in  the  dish  tor  table, 
placing  the  dish  in  some  hot  water  over  the 
lilt-  till  the  cream  is  set.  Before  serving, 
brown  with  a  salamander. 

CREAM  ITALIAN.  (2)  Put  a  gill  of 
good  fresh  cream,  two  eggs,  three  spoonfuls 
of  powder-sugar,  and  a  little  orarige-llower 
water,  into  a  pan,  and  whip  them  up  togeth- 
er; and  when  the  cream  is  sufficiently  thick, 
put  it  into  a  deep  dish,  xvith  plenty  of  pow- 
der-sugar; set  it  on  hot  ashes,  cox-er  it,  and 
lay  hot  ashes  on  die  top,  which  must  be 
renewed  until  the  cream  is  done  enough; 
then  let  it  cool,  and  serve  it. 

CREAM,  LEMON.  Steep  die  thinly- 
pared  rinds  of  four  large  lemons  in  a  pint  of 
water  for  twelve  hours ;  strain,  and  dissolve 
in  it  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  loaf 
sugar,  add  the  juice  of  the  lemons  strained, 
and  the  well-lx-aten  \x  i.  i,  and  the 

yolk  of  one  egg.  Boil  it  over  a  slow  fire, 
stirring  it  constantly  one  way,  till  it  is  like 
a  thick  cream;  pour  it  into  a  glass  or  china 
dish. 

CREAM,  ORANGE.  (1)  Squeeze  and 
strain  the  juice  of  eleven  oranges,  sweeten 
it  well  with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  stir  it  over 
a  slow  fire  till  the  sugar  be  dissolved,  and 
take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises;  when  cold, 
mix  it  with  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  twelve 
eggs,  to  which  a  pint  of  cream  has  been 
Mr  it  again  over  the  fire  till  thick. 
Serve  in  a  glass  dish  or  custard-cups. 

CREAM,  ORANGE.  (2)  Sweeten, 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  quart  of  good 
cream;  mix  xxith  it  a  small  xxiiu- 
orange-lluxver  water,  the  grated  rind  and 
the  juice  of  a  Seville  orange;  whisk  it  till 
quite  thick;  soak  some  macaroons  in  white 
wine,  and  pile  them  in  the  middle  of  a  glass 
or  china  dish,  and  heap  the  whip|x>d  cream 
over  them  a?  high  as  possible.  Some  hours 
after,  ornament  it  with  slices  of  green  citron 
cut  into  straws,  and  stuck  into  the  cream. 

CREAM,  RATAFIA.  In  a  t.-a-oupful 
of  thin  cream  Ixiil  txvo  or  three  large  laurel, 
or  young  peach  leaves ;  when  it  has  boiled 
them  or  four  minutes,  strain,  and  mix  with 
il  a  pint  of  rich  sweet  cream ;  add  three  welK 
Ix-alen  whiles  of  eggs,  and  sweeten  it  with 
|XMinded  loaf  .-r.spir.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan,. 
and  stir  it  gently  one  way  over  a  slow  fire- 
till  it  be  thick;  pour  it  into  a  china  dish, 


CRE 


58 


CRE 


and  when  quite  cold,  ornament  it  with  sweet- 
meats cut  out  like  flowers;  or  strew  over 
the  top  harlequin  comfits. 

CREAM,  RASPBERRY.     (1)  Mix  a 

little  pounded  Ioafsug-.tr  with  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  good  cream,  about  a  tea-cupful  of 
raspberry  jelly,  the  grated  rind  of  one,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  beat  it  well  to- 
gether, and,  with  a  syllabub  mill,  mill  it 
slowly  for  lialf  an  hour,  or  till  it  be  thick  and 
solid.  Put  it  into  a  glass  dish,  or  serve  it  in 
custard  glasses. 

CREAM,  RASPBERRY.  (2)  Put  six 
ounces  of  raspberry  jam  to  a  quart  of  cream, 
pulp  it  through  a  lawn  sieve,  mix  it  with  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  little  sugar,  and 
whi.sk  it  till  thick.  Serve  it  in  a  dish  or 
glasses.  Strawberry  cream  may  be  made 
in  the  same  way.  For  common  use,  substi- 
tute good  milk  for  the  cream. 

CREAM,  RED  CURRANT.  (1)  Pick 
the  currants  from  the  stalks,  put  them  into  a 
jar  closely  covered,  and  stand  it  in  a  pan 
of  cold  water;  let  it  boil  for  two  hours,  strain 
the  juice  through  a  sieve,  and  sweeten  it 
well  with  pounded  loaf  sugar.  When  cold, 
add  a  quart  of  cream  to  a  pint  of  juice,  and 
beat  it  with  a  whisk  till  thick.  Serve  in  a 
deep  glass  dish. 

CREAM,  RED  CURRANT.  (2) 
Squeeze  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  juice 
from  red  currants  when  full  ripe,  add  to  it 
rather  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  one 
lemon ;  stir  it  into  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cream, 
and  wfaiak  it  till  quite  thick. 

CREAM  ROSEAT.  Beat  to  a  stiff 
froth  the  whites  of  four  eggs ;  sweeten  and 
boil  a  pint  of  good  milk,  drop  about  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  the  froth  into  it,  turn  it 
over  once,  or  twice  with  the  spoon,  take  it 
out,  and  put  it  upon  the  back  of  a  lawn  sieve 
placed  over  a  large  plate;  repeat  this  till  it 
is  all  done;  add  to  the  milk  another  half 
pint,  with  a  little  more  sugar,  and  mix  it 
with  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  till  thick ;  put  it  into  a  basin, 
and  stir  now  and  then  till  nearly  cold ;  add 
a  table-spoonful  of  rose  water,  and  one  of 
brandy.  Serve  it  in  a  glass  dish,  and  lav 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  over  the  top  at  equal 
distances.  Cut  citron  and  candied  orange- 
peel  into  straws,  and  put  them  over  the 
whites  of  the  eggs,  or  strew  over  them  color- 
ed comfits. 

CREAM  OF  RICE  SOUP.     Mix  one 

or  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sifted  flour  of  rice 
with  a  little  good  slock,  ratlier  cold  than 


hot;  add  this  to  some  boiling  stock,  and 
keep  stirring  till  it  boils;  and  let  it  boil  till 
sufficiently  thick.  The  flour  of  rice  may  be 
made  as  follows: — Wash  in  several  waters 
a  pound  of  rice ;  wipe  it  in  a  clean  towel, 
and  when  perfectly  dry  pound  and  sift  it 
through  a  sieve. 

CREAM,  SNOW.  Take  a  pint  of  fresh 
cream,  and  mix  with  it  eight  spoonfuls  of 
powder-sugar,  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and 
a  spoonful  of  orange-flower  water,  6r  any 
oilier  aromatic  ingredient  you  like  better; 
whip  it,  and  remo\e  the  froth  or  snow  in 
the  usual  way.  This  cream  may  l>e  colored 
according  to  your  fancy,  with  saffron,  car- 
mine, or  indigo. 

CREAM,  SOLID.  Squee/e  the  juice 
of  a  large  lemon  upon  three  or  lour  table- 
spoonfuls  of  |x untiled  loaf  sugar,  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  brandy,  and  one  pint  of 
cream;  pour  it  from  one  cup  into  another, 
till  it  lie  sufficiently  thick. 

CREAM,  SPANISH.  Boil,  in  half  a 
pint  of  water,  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  till 
dissolved;  strain,  and  mix  it  with  a  quart 
of  cream  or  good  milk;  if  cream,  not  so 
much  isinglass;  stir  il  over  the  tire  till  it 
come  to  aboil;  when  a  little  cooled,  add 
gradually  the  liealen  volks  of  six  eggs,  and  a 
glass  of  white  wine.  Pour  it  into  a  deep 
dish,  sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  stir 
it  till  cold,  and  then  put  it  into  a  shape. 

CREA3I,  STONE.  Put  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon -juice,  and  the  grated  peel 
of  one,  some  preserved  apricots,  or  any  other 
svuvtmeat,  into  a  glassor  China  dish.  Boil 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  isinglass  in  a  little 
water,  till  dissolved ;  add  it  toa  pint  of  cream, 
sweetened  well  with  pounded  loaf  sugar; 
boil  it,  and  stir  it  all  the  time;  |«ur  it  into 
a  jug,  stir  it  now  and  then  till  milk-warm, 
then  pour  it  over  the  sweetmeat  round  and 
round.  Il  may  be  made  the  day  before 
being  served. 

CREAM,  SWISS.  (1)  Boil  the  grated 
peel  of  a  large  lemon,  and  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  in  a  pint  of 
cream;  squeeze  the  juice  of  the  lemon  upon 
a  table-spoonful  of  liour,  work  it  well  togeth- 
er, and  gradually  add  to  it  the  boiling  cream, 
and  heat  it  all  over  the  fire;  pour  it  i  to  a 
basin,  and  when  nearly  cold,  put  it  into  a 
glass  or  China  dish,  and  garnish  it  with 
candied  orange-peel,  and  citron  cut  into 
straws.  This  cream  requires  to  be  constant- 
ly stirred  till  it  is  put  into  the  dish  in  which 
it  is  to  be  served. 

CREAM,   SWISS.     (2)   Whisk   upon 


CRO  59 

a  hot  plate,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  half  a 
pound  of  finely-pounded  sugar,  the  grated 
rind  of  a  lemon,  and  half  a  pint  of  light 
French  or  Rlienish  white  wine,  and  send  it 
warm  to  table. 

CREAM  TART.     See  Tart. 

CREAM,  WHIPPED.  Sweeten,  with 
pounded  In. if  sugar,  a  quart  of  cream,  and 
add  to  it  a  lump  of  sugar  which  has  been 
rubbed  upon  tlie  peel  of  two  fine  lemons  or 
bitter  oranges;  or  flavor  it  with  orange- 
flower  water,  a  little  essence  of  roses,  the 
juice  of  ripe  strawberries,  or  of  any  other 
fruit.  Whisk  die  cream  well  in  a  large  pan, 
ami  as  the  froth  rises,  take  it  off,  and  lay  it 
upon  a  sieve  placed  over  another  pan,  and 
return  the  cream  which  drains  from  the  froth, 
till  all  is  whisked,  then  heap  it  upon  a  dish, 
or  put  it  into  glasses.  Garnish  with  thinly- 
pared  citron,  or  cednit  cut  into  small  leaves, 
or  into  any  fanciful  sliajx-.  To  color  the 
rose  cream,  or  to  heighten  (hat  of  strawber- 
ry, a  little  carmine  or  lake  may  be  mixed 
with  tlie  cream,  which  may  be  iced  when 
made. 

CKKAM,  WHITE  LEMON.  (1)  Rub, 

with  snine  lump.-  of  loaf  sugar,  the  rinds  of 
six  lemons,  and  grate  off  the  remainder; 
squeeze  and  strain  tlie  juice,  and  add  the 
grated  peel  and  sugar,  with  three-quarters 
of  a  IHMIM.I  of  pounded  loaf  sugar  ;  put  to  this 
a  quart  of  rich  cream,  and  whisk  it  till  very 
thick.  The  1'illow  in;;  day,  soak  five  or  six 
sponge  biscuits  in  white  wine,  and  put  over 
tin-in  tlie  cream. 

CREAM, WHITF.  LEMON.    (2)   Boil 

the  thin  |»fl  of  two  lemons  in  a  pint  of 
cream;  strain,  and  thicken  it  with  the  well- 
Ix-aten  \ulk.i  of  three,  and  white*  of  four 
eggs;  sweeten  it  with  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
stir  it  till  ni-aily  cold,  and  put  it  into 


CRU 


CROQUANTE  OF  PASTE.  Roll  out 
jxi.-ti-.  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  thick ; 
nihn\ei-  :i  plain  mould  with  a  little  fresh 
butter;  lay  on  the  paste  very  even,  and 
equally  thin  on  Ix.tli  sides;  pare  it  round  tlie 
rim;  then  with  a  small  penknife  rut  out 
.small  pieces,  as  fancy  may  direct,  such  as 
diamonds,  stars,  circles,  sprigs,  fee. ;  or  use 
a  small  tin  cutler  of  any  .-lia|ie:  k-t  it  lie  to 
dry  tometine,  and  liake  it  a  few  minutes  in 
a  slack  oven,  of  a  li>;lit  color:  remove  it 
from  the  mould,  and  place  it  over  a  tart,  or 
any  other  dish  of  small  pastry. 

<  K'HiUE.  These  are  large  pieces  of 
onmental  confectiofltfy,  formed  of  various 
materials,  as  gimblttles,  croquignolts,gen- 


oitet,  Sfc.,  or  of  oranges,  cut  into  quarters. 
chestnuts,  green  nuts,  &c.,  arranged  with- 
in moulds  according  to  fancy,  and  cemented 
together  with  boiled  sugar. 

CROQUETS.  Pound,  in  a  marble 
mortar,  cold  veal  and  fowl,  with  a  little  suet, 
some  cliopped  lemon-peel,  lemon  thyine, 
chives,  and  parsley.  Season  with  nutmeg, 
pepper,  and  salt;  mix  all  well  together,  and 
add  the  yolk  of  an  egg  well-beaten;  roll  it 
into  hulls,  and  dip  them  into  an  egg  beaten 
up,  then  sift  bread  crumbs  over  them,  and 
fry  them  in  butter. 

CROQUETTES  OF  BOILED  MEAT. 

Mince  some  boiled  meat  very  small;  add  to 
it  some  sausage-meat,  mashed  potatoes, 
cnmihsj  of  bread,  soaked  in  milk,  and  sweet 
Ix'ihs;  make  them  into  a  paste,  and  form  i». 
into  little  balLs ;  roll  them  in  very-  fine  rasp- 
ings, and  fry  them  of  a  nice  color.  Serve 
them  with  sauce  piquant e. 

CROQUETS   OF  SWEETBREADS. 

.Mince  some  cold  sweetbreads,  which  have 
been  dressed,  and  boil  them  in  a  sauce  ve- 
loute ;  when  quite  cold,  form  them  into  halls, 
or  into  rolls,  a) mut  two  inches  long;  fr\  and 
MTU-  iliem  with  fried  parsley  in  tin-  middle. 
Or,  make  the  croquet  meal  into  a  rissole. 
Roll  out  a  piece  of  thin  pnfl"  paste,  enclose 
tlie  meat  in  it,  brush  it  over  w  ith  a  beaten 
ind  strew  over  it  grated  bread;  fry  it 
of  a  light  brown  color. 

CRUMPETS.  (1)  Make  a  pint  of 
warm  milk,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  yeast  broth, 
strained  into  a  strong  batter,  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  flour;  cover,  and  set  it  in  a 
warm  place  to  rise ;  then  add  a  quarter  of 
a  pint  of  warm  milk,  an  ounce  of  butter 
worked  up  in  a  little  Hour,  but  only  Hour 
enough  to  prevent  tlie  liatter  from  being  too 
thin;  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  have  the  iron 
rings  ready  on  a  plate  of  iron  over  a  stove; 
pour  the  batter  into  these  rings,  and  kike 
them. 

CRUMPETS,  OR  PIKELETS.     (2) 

Set  a  sponge  as  for  bread,  excepting  that 
lull"  milk  and  half  water  must  be  used;  and 
to  every  half-quartern  of  flour,  two  egga 
must  be  added;  l>eat  tlie  eggs  thoroughly. 
Bake  them  in  rings  as  usual. 

CRUST,  FOR  VENISON  PASTY. 

Work  into  a  paste  with  warm  water,  two 
pounds  and  a  lialf  of  butter,  a  peck  of  fine 
flour,  ami  four  eggs;  work  it  smooth,  and 
to  a  good  ri  insistence.  The  paste  should  be 
put  round  the  inside,  but  not  at  the  bottom 
of  tin-  dish ;  let  the  cover  be  tolerably  thick, 
to  bear  tlie  long  continuance  in  die  oven. 


cue 


60 


CUL 


CRUST,  RAISED.  (1)  Melt,  in  one 
pint  of  water,  one  pound  of  fresh  lard ;  weigh 
four  pounds  of  flour,  jmt  it  into  a  basin,  and 
when  i  In1  water  and  lard  is  hot,  with  a  horn 
spoon  stir  it  by  degrees  amongst  the  flour. 
When  well  mixed,  work  it  with  the  hands 
till  it  is  a  stifl"  paste,  when  it  is  fit  for  use. 

CRUST,  RAISED.  (2)  Put  into  a 
saucepan  one  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  four 
pounds  of  flour,  and  .four  ounces  and  a  half 
of  butter;  stir  it  till  it  is  a  thick  paste,  take 
it  out,  and  add  the  yolks  of  three  or  four 
beaten  eggs;  work  it  well  together,  roll  it 
out  rather  more  than  half  an  inch  thick; 
cut  out  the  top  and  bottom,  and  a  long  piece 
of  proper  depth  for  the  sides.  Brush  round 
the  bottom  with  well-beaten  whites  of  eggs; 
set  on  the  sides,  keeping  the  paste  rather 
within  die  edge  of  the  bottom ;  pinch  it  all 
round,  to  make  the  pieces  adhere,  then  fill 
tlie  pie,  and  brush  round  the  upper  sides  of 
the  crust  and  the  outer  edges  of  the  cover 
with  egg ;  lay  on  die  cover,  pinch  it  round 
neatly,  and  ornament  it  according  to  fancy 
with  leaves,  festoons,  or  chains  of  rings 
made  of  the  paste. 

CRUST  SHORT.  (1)  Pound,  sift, 
and  dry  two  ounces  of  white  sugar;  then 
mix  it  with  a  |x>und  of  well  dried  flour,  rub- 
bing into  it,  so  fine  as  not  to,  be  seen,  three 
ounces  of  butter ;  then  put  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  into  some  cream,  and  mix  die  whole 
into  a  smooth  paste;  roll  it  out  thin,  and 
bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CRUST  SHORT,  NOT  SWEET,  BUT 
RICH.  (2)  Mix  into  a  stirlish  paste,  us- 
ing as  little  water  as  possible,  six  ounces  of 
butler,  with  eight  ounces  of  fine  flour,  (rub- 
bing the  butter  well  into  the  flour,  before 
mixing  it  with  the  water)  lx;at  it  well,  and 
roll  it  Ulin.  This  crust  is  proper  as  well  as 
the  alxjve,  for  Uirls  of  fresh  or  preserved 
fruits.  Let  it  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CUCUMBERS  STEWED.     Peel  and 

cat  cucuwlx.Ts  in  quarters,  take  out  die  seeds, 
and  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain  off  the  wa- 
ter: when  they  are  dry,  flour  and  fry  them 
in  fresh  butter;  let  the  butter  be  quite  hot 
before  you  put  in  the  cucumbers  ;  fry  them 
till  they  are  brown,  then  take  them  out  with 
an  egg-slice,  and  lay  them  on  a  sieve  to 
drain  the  fat.  from  diem  (some  cooks  fry 
sliced  onions,  or  some  small  button  onions, 
with  them,  till  they  are  a  delicate  light 
brown  color,  drain  them  from  the  fat,  and 
then  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  as  much 
gravy  as  will  cover  them):  stew  slowly  till 
they  are  tender;  take  out  the  cucumbers 
with  a  slice,  thicken  the  gravy  with  flour 
and  butter,  give  it  a  boil  up,  season  it  with 


pepper  and  salt,  and  put  in  the  cucumbers; 
as  soon  as  they  are  warm,  they  are  ready. 
Tlie  above,  nibt>ed  through  a  tamis,  or  fine 
sieve,  will  l)e  entitled  to  be  called  "  cucum- 
IXT  sauce."  See  Cucumber  Vinegar.  This 
is  a  very  favorite  sauce  with  lamb  or  mutton- 
cutleis,  Mewed  rump-steaks,  &c.  &c.:  when 
made  for  tlie  latter,  a  third  part  of  sliced 
onion  is  sometimes  fried  with  the  cucumber. 

CUCUMBERS  AND  ONIONS,  SLIC- 
ED. Cut  full-grown  cucumlx-rs  into  slices 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  slice 
some  onions  thin;  then  lay  them  into  a  dish 
together,  and  strew  salt  over  them ;  cover 
them"  with  another  dish,  and  let  them  re- 
main for  twenty-four  hours.  Put  them  in- 
to a  cullender  to  drain,  then  into  a  large  jar, 
and  ]x)iir  over  diem  boiled  vinegar,  diree 
successive  days;  the  last  time  of  boiling  the 
vinegar  add  pepper  and  ginger,  pour  it  over 
them  hot,  and  closely  cover  diem  when  cold. 

CUCUMBER  MANGOES.  Cut  a  long 
narrow  piece  out  of  die  sides  of  large  Tur- 
key cucumbers,  scoop  out  the  seeds,  and 
with  a  ]>art  of  diem  mix  some  mustard  seed, 
shred  garlic,  and  grated  horse-radish;  stuff 
the  space  as  full  as  it  will  admit  of,  and  re- 
place the  piece  which  was  cut  off;  bind 
them  with  a  thread;  |Mit  over  them  hot 
vinegar  three  successive  da\s,  and  boil  with 
it  the  last  time  pepjier,  flour  of  mustard, 
and  some  salt;  put  them  into  jars,  and  pour 
over  them  the  lx>iling  vinegar,  and  when 
cold,  cover  them  closely. 

CULLIS.  (1)  To  a  quart  of  gravy,  put  a 
table-spoonful  of  thickening,  or  from  one  to 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  according  to 
tlie  thickness  you  wish  the  gravy  to  \>e,  into 
a  basin,  with  a  ladleful  of  tlie  gravy;  stir  it 
quick;  add  the  rest  by  degrees,  till  it  is  all 
well  mixed;  then  pour  it  back  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  leave  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to 
simmer  for  half  an  hour  longer,  that  the 
thickening  may  thoroughly  incorporate  with 
the  gravy,  the  stewpan  being  only  half  cov- 
ered, stirring  it  every  now  and  then ;  a  sort 
of  scum  will  gather  on  the  top,  which  it  is 
best  not  to  take  off  till  you  are  ready  to 
strain  it  through  a  tamis.  Tuke  care  it  is 
neither  of  too  pale  nor  too  dark  a  color;  if 
it  is  not  thick  enough,  let  it  stew  longer,  till 
it  is  reduced  to  die  desired  thickness;  or 
add  a  bit  of  glaze,  or  portable  soup  to  it, 
if  it  is  too  thick,  you  can  easily  diin  it  with 
a  spoonful  or  two  of  warm  broth,  or  water 
When  your  sauce  is  done,  stir  it  in  the  ba- 
sin you"  put  it  into  once  or  twice,  while  it  is 
cooling. 

CULLIS.  (2)  Lay  over  the  bottom  of  a 
stew.an  as  much  lean  veal  aa  will  cover 


CU  R 


61 


CUR 


it  an  inch  thick;  then  cover  the  veal  with 
some  slices  of  undressed  bacon  (<jammon  if 
the  best),  three  onions,  three  bay  leaves, 
some  sweet  herbs,  two  blades  of  ui:ice,  and 
three  cloves.  1'ut  on  the  lid  of  die  stewpan, 
and  set  it  over  a  ."low  lire;  lint  when  the 
juices  conic  out,  let  tlu-tirc  he  a  little  quick- 
er. When  the  nic.it  is  of  a  nice  brown  col- 
or, fill  the  stew|ian  with  ijood  beef  broth, 
boil  anil  skim  it,  then  let  it  simmer  fir  an 
hour;  :nM  a  little  water  mi\i  1  with  as 
much  tli.nr  as  \\ill  make  it  properly  thick; 
boil  it  hall'  an  hour,  and  strain  it.  You 
uiuy  keep  this  cnllis  a  week. 

CULLIS,  A  FAMILY  ONE.  Roll  a 
piece  ol'hutter  in  tlour,  and  stir  it  in  a  stew- 
pan  till  the  Hour  is  of  a  tine  yellow  color. 
Tben  put  in  some  thin  broth:  a  little  gravy, 
a  glass  of  white,  wine,  a  bundle  of  sweet 
herbs,  two  cloves,  a  little  nutmeg  or  mace,  a 
few  mushrooms,  [tepper  and  salt.  Let  it 
Mew  an  hour  over  a  slow  tire,  then  skim  all 
the  fat  'clean  off,  and  strain  it  tlirough  a 
sieve. 

CULLIS,  WHITE.     Take  a  piece  of 

veal,  cut  it  into  small  hits,  with  some  thin 
slices  of  ham,  and  two  onions,  each  cut  into 
four;  moisten  it  w  itli  broth,  seasoned  with 
mushrooms,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  green  onions, 
three  cloves,  and  so  let  it  stew.  Being 
stcweil,  take  out  the  meat  and  roots  with  a 
skimmer,  put  in  a  few  einmlis  of  bread,  and 
let  it  >te\v  .-oftly  ;  take  the  white  of  a  fowl, 
or  two  ( -hit-kens,  ami  put  it  into  a  mortar; 
bein<;  well  pounded,  mix  it  in  the  cnllis,  but 
it  inii-i  not  l»il,  anil  the.  cnllis  must  be  very 
white;  but  if  not  white  enough,  pound  two 
dozen  of  sweet  almonds  blanched,  anil  put  it 
into  the  cnllis;  then  \»i'i\  a  s;las»  of  milk,  ami 
add  it  to  the  rullis;  let  it  IK'  of  a  good  fla- 
vor, and  strain  it  off;  then  put  it  into  a 
small  kettle,  and  keep  it  warm.  It  may  be 
used  tor  white  loaves,  crust  of  white  bread, 
and  biscuits. 

\COA.  Put  five  ounces  of  thin- 
cut  Seville  oiaiitie-ptfl,  that  1ms  been  dried 
and  poiindi-d.  or,  which  is  still  better,  of 
the  fi.-h  peel  of  a  fresh  shaddock,  which 
may  !«•  Um^ht  at  the  orange  and  lemon 
shops  in  the.  Ix-^iiiiiin^  of  .March,  into  a 
iji MI  t  nf  the  finest  and  cleanest  rectified 
spirit;  after  it  has  been  infused  a  fortnight, 
strain  it,  and  ad.l  a  i|iiart  of  sirup  and  filter. 
Sec  the  following  receipt. 

(I   liACOA;    HOW   TO   MAKK   A 

To  a  pint  of  the    clta 
n  ctilied  spirit,  add   two   di acinus 
and  a  half  of  the  >wect   oil  of  orange-peel; 
shake  ii  up:   (li--,,Ue  :i  pound  of  i;ood   lump 
sugar  in  a  pint  of  cold  water;  nuke  this  in- 
6 


to  a  clarified  simp,  which  add  to  the 
spirit:  shake  it  up,  and  let  it  stand  till  the 
following  day:  then  line  a  funnel  with  a 
piece  of  muslin,  and  that  with  filtering- 
|Ki|>er,  and  filter  it  two  or  three-  times  till  it 
is  quite  bright.  This  li<|ii<.r  is  an  admira- 
ble cordial ;  and  a  tea-spoonful  in  a  tumbler 
of  \\;iti'i-  is  a  very  refreshing  summer  drink, 
and  a  great  improvement  to  punch. 

CURDS  AND  CREAM.  (1)  With 
about  half  a  table-spoonful  of  rennet,  turn 
two  quarts  of  milk  just  from  the  cow ;  drain 
off  the  whey,  and  fill  a  mould  with  the  curd ; 
when  it  has  stood  an  hour  or  two,  turn  it 
out.  Strew  colored  comfits  over  it,  sweeten 
some  cream,  mix  grated  nutmeg  with  it, 
and  pour  it  round  the  curd. 

CURDS  AND  CREAM.    (2)    Put  two 

quarts  of  new  milk  into  the  dish  in  which  it 
in  to  be  served,  and  turn  it  with  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  rennet;  when  the  curd  has  come,  serve 
it  with  cream  in  a  separate  dish. 

CURRANTS,  AND  OTHER  FRUIT, 
TO  CANDY.  Boil  the  fruit  in  clarified 
sugar  as  for  preserving ;  take  it  out  of  the 
sirup  and  drain  it  upon  sieves ;  sift  over  it 
through  a  lawn  sieve,  till  quite  white,  pound- 
ed loaf  sugar.  Place  them  in  a  cool  oven, 
and  turn  and  dust  them  with  sugar  till  dry. 

CURRANT  FRITTERS  WITHOUT 
EGGS.  Stir  into  half  a  pint  of  mild  ale, 
as  much  flour  as  will  make  it  into  a  thick 
I  sitter ;  add  a  little  sugar  and  a  fev/ currant* ; 
beat  it  up  quickly,  and  with  a  spoon  drop 
it  into  boiling  lard. 

CURRANT    MARMALADE.      Take 

some  ripe  red  currants,  pick  (hem,  and 
squeeze  out  the  juice  from  some  of  them ;  put 
to  it  some  juice  of  raspberries ;  then  put  to 
this  the  whole  currants,  boil  them  gently; 
and  wlien  they  begin  to  break,  put  in  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar  boiled  to  candy  height ; 
Ixiil  them  together,  mash  them  as  they  boil ; 
skim  them,  put  in  some  rose  water,  and 
when  it  becomes  ag  thick  as  marmalade,  put 
it  into  pots. 

CURRANT     PUDDING.    See   Pvd- 

ding. 

CURRANTS   FOR  TARTS.     Gatlicr 

the  fruit  perfectly  dry,  and  before  it  be  too 
ripe,  pick  it  from  the  stalks,  and  put  it  into 
clean,  dry,  w  ide-monthcd  bottles;  if  the 
flavor  of  raspberries  is  approved,  some  may 
be  added  with  tlie  currants ;  tie  tightly  over 
each  Ixitilc  a  piece  of  sound  bladder  previ- 
ously soaked  in  water;  set  tliem  into  a  pan 
of  cold  water  with  a  little  straw  at  the  hot- 


CUR 


62 


CUR 


torn,  and  a  little  between  the  Ixmlcs ;  put 
them  on  the  fire,  and  when  they  begin  to 
simmer,  keep  them  in  tli;it  slate  alx>ut  three- 
quarters  uf  an  hour,  but  they  must  not  be 
alloued  td  boil;  take  the  pan  oft"  the  fire; 
the  bladders  will  be  raised,  but  will  fall  soon 
after,  anil  sink  into  the  mouth  of  the  bottle;- ; 
in  an  hour,  take  them  out,  and  tie  strong 
paper  over  each,  and  set  them  in  a  dry  cool 
place.  The  bottles  may  be  placed  in  a 
bottle  rack  with  the  neck  downwards. 
Damsons,  cherries,  and  gixiselxjrries,  may 
be  done  in  this  way;  any  sort  will  keep  for 
a  \eai-.  Cut  off  the  stalks  of  the  cherries, 
and  top  and  tail  tlic  gooseberries. 

CURRANT  TART.     See  Tarts. 

CURRIES.  Cut  fowls  or  rabbits  into 
joints,  and  wash  them  clean  ;  put  two  ounces 
of  butler  into  u  stewpaa  :  when  it  is  melted, 
put  in  the  meat,  and  two  middling-si/cd 
onions  sliced,  let  them  be  over  a  smart  fin- 
till  they  are  of  a  light  brown,  then  put  in 
half  a  pint  of  broth;  let  it  simmer  twenty 
minutes.  Put  in  a  basin  one  or  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  curry  powder,  a  tea-spoonful  of" 
flour,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt;  mix  it 
smooth  with  a  little  cold  water,  put  it  into 
the  stewpan,  and  shake  it  well  about  till  it 
boils:  let  it  simmer  twenty  minutes  longer; 
then  take  out  the  meat,  and  rub  tJie  sauce 
through  a  tamis  or  sieve:  add  to  it  two  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  creiim  or  milk ;  give  it  a 
boil  up;  then  pour  it  into  a  dish,  lay  the 
meat  over  it:  send  up  the  rice  in  a  separate 
dish. 

CURRY.  Cut  a  fowl  into  small  pieces, 
skin  it,  and  let  it  blanch  in  cold  water  for 
two  hours;  mince  an  onion  very  small,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  two  ounces  of 
butter,  and  a  large  table-spoonful  of  flour 
of  rice  stirred  in  by  degrees;  brown  it  well, 
and  when  just  boiling,  add  a  quart  of  cold 
water,  with  the  pieces  of  fowl  and  a  lar_;e 
table-spoonful  of  curry  powder  mixed  in  it. 
Lst  it  boil  till  the  fowl  be  quite  tender,  and 
just  Ijefore  serving,  squeeze  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon  over  the  blade  of  a  knife  into 
it.  Vinegar  will  answer  instead  of  tlie 
juice;  and  if  it  be  required  very  fine,  in 
place  of  rice,  thicken  it  with  an  ounce  of 
sweet  .dmo'.ids  blanched  and  pounded. 

CURRY  BALLS  for  Mock  Turtle, 
Veal,  Poultry,  Made  Dishes,  &c.  Are 
made  with  bread-crumbs,  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  boiled  hard,  and  a  bit  of  fresh  butter 
about  half  as  big,  beaten  together  in  a  mor- 
tar, and  seasoned  with  curry  powder. 

CURRY,  DRY.  Skin  and  cut  a  fowl 
into  joints,  or  take  off  small  cutlets  from 


the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  veal ;  fry  in  butter 
three  or  four  minced  onions,  and  drain 
them;  then  fry  the  fowl  or  veal,  and  dust  it 
with  three  tea-spoonfuls  of  curry  powder, 
and  a  quarter  <il'a  tea-spoonful  of  Cayenne. 
1'ut  tlie  fried  ine.it  and  onions  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  little  salt,  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  the  BOM  quantity  of  water;  keep  the 
pan  closely  m\cred,  and  let  it  stew  till  |>er- 
If-ctly  tender,  and  ten  minutes  U-l'ore  serv- 
ing, add  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice. 

CURRY,  FISH.  After  a  cod-fish,  had- 
dock, or  mackerel  has  lain  some  hours  in 
salt,  cut  it  into  pieces,  and  stew  it  in  water 
sutiicient  to  cover  it,  into  uhich  a  lariri-  ta- 
ble spoonful  of  curry  powder  has  U-en  mix- 
ed. Fry  in  a  quarter  of  a  (xiund  of"  butter, 
a  shallot  and  two  or  three  onions  minced, 
a  little  pepper  and  salt.  When  well  brown- 
ed, add  it  to  the  tish.  am!  >!ew  all  together 
«till  it  l)e  quite  tender.  Sprats  mak' 
curry,  but  should  be  slewed  in  less  water. 

CURRY,  INDIAN.  Stew  in  two  ounc- 
es of  butter,  tor  ten  minutes,  a  teas|x>ont"ul 
of  Cayenne,  and  one  of  pepper,  a  di-.-sert- 
spoonful  of  pounded  coriander  s. 
small  onions,  and  two  heads  of  garlic  min- 
ced. Cut  tlie  fowl  or  rabbit  into  small 
pieces,  and  cover  it  over  with  the  curd  of 
sweet  milk.  Put  die  whole  into  a  stew  pan, 
with  as  much  boiling  water  as  may  I*  de- 
sired for  sauce,  and  let  it  simmer  till  very 
tender. 

CURRY  POWDER.  (1)  Put  the  follow- 
ing ingredients  in  a  cool  oven  all  night,  and 
the  next  morning  pound  them  in  a  marble 
mortar,  and  nib  them  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Coriander-seed,  three  ounce*,  turmeric,  three 
ounces,  black  pep|x-r,  mustard,  and  ginger, 
one  ounce  of  each,  allspice  and  less  carda- 
mons,  half  an  ounce  of  each,  cumin  seed, 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce.  Thoroughly  pound 
and  mix  together,  and  keep  them  in  a  well- 
stopped  bottle.  Tiii.se  who  are  fond  of 
curry  sauces,  niav  steep  three  ounces  of  t he- 
powder  in  a  quart  of  vinegar  or  white  wine 
lor  ten  days,  and  will  get  a  liquor  impreg- 
nated with  all  tlie  flavor  of  tlie  powder. 

CURRY  POWDER.  (2)  Pound  ex- 
tremely fine,  in  a  mortar,  six  ounces  of  co- 
riander seed,  three  ounces  of  pepper,  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  fennigreck  seed,  one 
ounce  of  cumin  seed,  thi-ee  ounces  of  tur- 
meric, and  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of 
Cayenne ;  sift  it  through  muslin,  and  put  it 
before  the  fire  for  four  or  five  hours,  stirring 
it  every  now  and  then.  Keep  it  in  a  bottle 
with  a  glass  stopper. 

CURRY  OF  VEAL,  FOWL,  &c.     Fry 


cu  s 


63 


cus 


diced  veal,  rabbit,  fowl,  or  sweetbreads,  in  a 
good  deal  of  butter,  dusting  it  with  tlnur. 
Dust  one  side  with  curry  powder;  then  turn 
and  dust  the  oilier,  strewing  oxer  it  tinely- 
miiH-<il  onions,  taking  care  not  to  burn  them. 
When  the  meat  is  of  a  light  brown,  add 
some  white  stock,  with  a  little  salt 
till  tender.  Before  serving,  skim  oil' tin-  fat, 
and  add  a  tca-s|>oonfiil  of  lemon-juice  or 
vinegar.  Rabbit,  fowl,  and  sweetbreads 
should  be  parboiled. 

CUSTARD.  (1)  Sweeten  a  quart  of  thin 
cream,  or  good  milk,  with  pounded  loaf 
sugar;  boil  it  with  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and 
half  the  peel  of  a  lemon ;  strain  it,  and  when 
a  little  cooled,  mix  it  gradually  with  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  ten  eggs;  stir  it  over  a 
slow  fire  till  it  be  pretty  thick ,  pour  it  into  a 
basin,  and  add  a  table-spoonful  of  rose  water, 
and  one  of  brandy;  keep  stirring  it  every 
now  and  then  till  cold,  and  then  put  it  into 
ghsaes,  cups,  or  a  dish.  It  may  be  made 
the  day  before  it  is  used. 

CUSTARD.  (2)  Boil  a  pint  of  milk 
with  lemon-peel  and  cinnamon ;  mix  a  pint 
of  cream,  and  tin-  yolks  of  five  eggs,  well 
beaten ;  when  the  milk  tastes  of  the  season- 
ing, sweeten  it  enough  for  the  whole ;  pour 
it  into  the  cream,  stirring  it  well;  then  give 
the  custard  a  simmer  till  of  a  proper  thick- 
ness. Do  not  let  it  lx>il;  stir  the  whole 
time  one  way;  then  season  with  a  large 
spoonful  of  peach  water,  and  two  tea-spoon- 
fuls of  brandy,  or  a  little  ratafia.  If  you  wish 
your  custards  to  be  extremely  rich,  put  no 
milk,  but  a  quart  of  cream. 

CUSTARDS.  (3)  Take  six  eggs, 
leave  out  the  whites;  mix  your  eggs  and 
sugar  together  with  some  rose  water ;  then 
boil  a  pint  of  cream,  and  put  in  the  eggs 
(the  cream  must  not  boil  after  the  eggs  have 
been  put  in).  Stir  them  to  prevent  them 
from  curdling. 

<  1  <T\RDS,  ALMOST).  Blanch  ami 
pound  fine,  with  half  a  gill  of  ran  water,  MX 

atHtvm  of  swifl,  H'i'l  half  an  ounce  of  liitler 
almonds;  boil  a  pint  of  milk,  as  in  Bahed 
Costard  swiften  it  wiili  two  ounces  and  a 
half  of  sii<;ar;  rub  the  almon<)s  through  a 
B,  with  a  pint  of  ci.'.iiu;  strain  'lie 
milk  to  the  yolks  of  ei^iit  em;-;,  and  the 
whites  of  three  well-U-aten  ;  Mir  it  over  a 
fire  till  it  is  of  a  good  thickm-s*;  take  it  olT 
unl  *iic  it  till  nearly  cold,  to  prevent 
its  curdling.  .\.  B. — The  above  may  be 
baked  in  eii|>s,  or  in  a  dish,  with  a  rim  of 
puff  |u-fe  |iiit  round. 

\KI>.     APPLE.       Take   thirty 
fine  apple*,  and  pierce  out  the  cores  of  tan 


of  them  which  are  of  an  equal  size;  pare 
and  ti  iin  them  nealK,  anil  l»>il  them  in  .six 
ounces  of  sn^ar  till  pretty  firm.  Peel  and 
cut  the  remaining  apples  von.  small,  and  put 
them  into  the  alxive  sirup;  shred  the  rind 
of  an  orange,  and  mix  with  them;  stir  the 
whole  constautK  to  ore\ent  their  sticking 
to  the  pan;  when  sufficiently  done  nil)  the 
marmalade  through  a  horse-hair  sieve.  Pre- 
pare the  crust  as  In  I' .re  mentioned,  lint  drew 
the  sides  a  little  higher;  mix  two  sjxxinfuls 
of  apricot  marmalade  with  that  of  your 
apples,  and  then  put  four  spoonfuls  of  it  into 
the  custard;  place  tlie  whole  appk-s,  (hav- 
ing put  apricot  marmalade  in  the  place  of 
the  cores),  and  then  add  the  remainder  of 
the  apple  marmalade,  taking  care  not  to 
cover  the  apples  with  it.  Finish  as  above. 
At -the  instant  of  serving  it  mask  it  with 
apple  jelly,  apricot  or  quince  marmalade, 
cherry  juice  or  verjuice.  Garnish  the  top 
of  each  apple  with  a  cherry  or  verjuice-berry. 
Serve  this  hot  or  cold. 

CUSTARD,     APRICOT     GLAZED. 

f'nt  tuenty  line  apricots  in  half,  take  oat 
the  stones;  toss  up  twelve  apricots  in  four 
ounces  of  powder-sugar,  and  place  them  in 
a  cream  according  to  the  directions  for 
apple  custard;  bake  and  glaze  as  therein 
directed.  Put  a  glass  of  water  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar  with  the 
rest  of  the  fruit  into  a  preserving-pan ;  when 
die  sirup  is  properly  reduced,  take  the  skin 
from  the  apricots  and  arrange  them  in  the 
custard;  garnish  each  half  apricot  with  a 
kernel,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  pour  the 
sirup  on  it.  Serve  Iwt  or  cold. 

CUSTARD,    BAKED.      (1)     Boil  a 

pint  of  cream  with  mare  and  cinnamon; 
when  cold,  take  tour  eggs,  bavin;;  out  Iwo 
of  the  whites,  a  little  rose  and  orange-flower 
water,  a  little  white  wine,  nutmeg,  and 
sugar  to  your  taste ;  mix  them  well  together, 
and  bake  them  in  china  cups. 

CUSTARD,  BAKED.  (2)  Boil  in  a 
pint  of  milk,  a  few  coi  iiuidnr  seeds,  a  little 
cinnamon  and  lemon-peel;  sweeten  with 
tour  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  and  mix  wilh  it  a 
pint  of  cold  milk;  Ix-at  well  eii;lit  eggs  for 
ten  minutes,  and  add  the  other  in^iedicnt*; 
[XHir  it  from  out-  j«in  into  another  six  or 
eight  times,  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and 
let  it  stand  some  time;  skim  off  the  froth 
from  the  top,  till  it  in  earthen  cups,  and 
liake  them  immediately  in  a  hot  oven,  give 
t  hem  a  good  color ;  about  ten  minutes  will 
do  them. 

CUSTARD,  BOILED.  (1)  Boilinapint 

of  milk,  five  minute-,  lemon-peel,  coriunders, 
anil  cinnamon,  a  small  quantity  of  each, 


cus 


64 


cus 


half  a  dozen  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and 
pounded,  and  four  ounces  of  loaf  sugar:  mix 
it  with  a  pint  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs, 
and  the  whites  of  six,  well-beaten;  pass  it 
through  a  hair  sieve,  stir  it  with  a  whisk 
over  a  slow  fire  till  it  begins  to  thicken,  re- 
move it  from  the  fire,  and  continue  to  stir 
it  till  nearly  cold ;  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  brandy,  fill  the  cups  or  glasses,  and  grate 
nutmeg  over. 

CUSTARDS,  BOILED.  (2)  Put  a 
quart  of  new  milk  into  a  stewpan,  with  the 
peel  of  a  lemon  cut  very  thin,  a  little  grated 
nutineg,  a  bay  or  laurel  leaf,  and  a  small 
stick  of  cinnamon;  set  it  over  a  quick  fire, 
but  be  carefiil  it  does  not  boil  over:  when  it 
boils,  set  it  beside  the  fire,  and  simmer  ten 
minutes ;  break  the  yolks  of  eight,  and  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  into  a  basin ;  beat  them 
well ;  then  pour  in  the  milk  a  little  at  a 
time,  stirring  it  as  quick  as  possible-  to  pre- 
vent the  eggs  curdling;  set  it  on  the  fire 
again,  and  stir  it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon ; 
let  it  have  just  one  boil ;  pass  it  through  a 
tani Is,  or  fine  sieve:  when  cold  add  a  little 
brandy,  or  white  wine,  as  may  be  most 
agreeable .  to  the  eater's  palate.  Serve  up 
in  glasses,  or  cups.  Custards  for  baking 
are  prepared  as  above,  |)assed  through  a 
fine  sieve;  put  them  into  cups  ;  grate  a  little 
nutmeg  over  each:  bake  them  about  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes. 

CUSTARD,  COMMON.  Boil  a  pint 
of  milk  with  a  bit  of  cinnamon  and  two  or 
three  laurel  leaves;  mix  with  one  table- 
spoonfnl  of  flour,  or  potato  flour,  two  and  a 
half  of  cold  milk,  put  it  into  a  lawn  sieve, 
and  pour  the  boiling  milk  upon  it;  let  it 
run  into  a  basin,  mix  in  by  degrees  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs ;  sweeten,  and 
stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  to 
thicken. 

CUSTARDS  OR  CREAMS,  TO  ORNA- 
MENT. Whisk  for  one  hour  the  whites  of 
two  eggs  together  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  raspberry,  or  red  currant  sirup  or  jellv ; 
lay  it  in  any  form  U|x>n  a  custard  or  cream, 
piled  up  to  imitate  rock.  It  may  be  served 
in  a  dish  with  cream  round  it. 

CUSTARD,  DURHAM.  To  a  pint  of 
cream  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
and  about  a  third  of  a  pint  of  mild  strong 
ale;  sweeten,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it 
nearly  boils,  then  |x>ur  it  into  a  dish,  in  the 
bottom  of  which  is  laid  thin  toasted  bread, 
cut  into  square  bits. 

CUSTARD  OF  FRESH  FRUIT. 
Have  ready  a  tin  or  copper  mould,  and  line 
it  completely  with  paste,  taking  care  that  it 


takes  all  the  form  of  the  mould.  Then  take 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  apricots,  peaches, 
plums,  or  any  otlier  fruit  you  please ;  and 
having  taken  out  the  stones,  seeds,  and  stalks, 
mix  the  fruit  up  with  powder-sugar;  put  it 
into  the  crust,  and  bake  it  in  a  hot  oven. 
When  ready  for  table,  mask  it  with  the 
sirup  and  kernels,  blanched  and  cut  in 
halves. 

CUSTARD,  LEMON.    (1)    Boil  two 

glasses  of  white  wine,  half  a  pint  of  water, 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy ;  when 
nearly  cold,  add  the  grated  peel  and  juice 
of  two  lemons,  with  half  a  pound  of  pounded 
loaf  sugar,  and  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six 
eggs;  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire  till  it  thickens, 
pour  it  into  a  basin,  and  stir  now  and  then 
till  cold;  put  it  into  a  dish,  or  cups,  with 
sifted  loaf  sugar  over  the  top. 

CUSTARD,  LEMON.  (2)  Put  the 
juice  of  four  lemons,  with  three  ounces  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  into  a  deep  dish.  Boil 
the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon  and  two  ounces 
of  pounded  loaf  sugar  in  a  quart  of  cream, 
and  pour  it  over  the  juice  and  sugai.  It 
will  keep  for  four  days. 

CUSTARD,  ORANGE.  Sweeten  the 
strained  juice  of  ten  oranges  with  (xnmded 
loaf  sugar,  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  hot,  take 
off  the  scum,  and  when  nearly  cold  add  to  it 
the  beaten  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  and  a  pint 
of  cream;  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir 
it  over  a  slow  fire  till  it  thickens.  Serve  in 
cups  or  a  dish. 

CUSTARD,  RICE.  Mix  a  pint  of 
milk,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  one  ounce  of  sift- 
ed ground  rice,  five  or  six  bitter  almonds, 
blanched  and  pounded  with  two  table-spoon- 
fills  of  rose  water;  sweeten  with  loaf  sugar, 
and  stir  it  all  together  till  it  nearly  boils ; 
add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs; 
stir,  and  let  it  simmer  for  alxnit  a  minute; 
pour  it  into  a  dish,  or  serve  it  in  cups,  with 
sifted  loaf  sugar  over  the  top. 

CUSTARD,  TURKEY.  Put  a  txmnd 
and  a  half  of  good  rice  into  cold  water  over 
the  fire,  and  when  it  boils,  take  it  off  and 
drain  it  well ;  then  put  it  into  a  large  sanre- 
|wn,  with  twelve  glasses  of  good  milk,  a 
pound  of  butter,  the  same  of  sugar,  on  which 
have  been  rasped  the  peels  of  four  oranges 
or  cedrats,  and  a  grain  of  salt.  Put  the 
saucepan  over  a  moderate  fire  to  swell  the 
rice,  taking  care  that  none  of  die  grains 
burst;  stir  it  a  little,  and  when  done,  add 
to  it  two  pounds  of  dry  currants,  the  yolks 
of  twelve  eggs,  and  some  spoonfuls  of  Chan- 
tilly cream;  after  which  mix  in  the  twelve 
whites  whipped  firm.  Prepare  the  crust  in. 


DAM 


65 


DE  V 


the  usual  way ;  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven 
two  hours  and  a  half;  when  ready  for  table, 
brown  il  with  a  salamander. 

CUSTARD,  TURNING  OUT.      Mix 

with  tin;  well-beaten  yolk*  of  four  e<jgs  a 
pint  of  new  milk,  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass 
dissolved,  or  enough  of  calf  s-fcet  stock  to 
stiffen  it,  and  two  laurel  leaves;  sweeten 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  stir  it  over  a 
elo\v  tire  till  it  thickens;  pour  it  into  a 
basin,  and  stir  it  till  a  little  cooled,  then 
pour  it  into  cups  to  turn  out  when  quite  cold. 
Heat  the.  yolk*  of  two  eu'.rs  with  a  little 
cream;  add  it  to  nearly  li.ilf  a  [xnind  of 
brown  sugar  burnt ;  .-train  it  through  a 
sieve,  and  wlien  cold  pour  it  round  tile  cus- 
tards. 


I). 


1)  \MS()\S  BOTTLED.     Gather  tliem 

on  a  dry  day  before  tliev  are  ripe,  when  they 
have  ^it-t  lurm-.!  their  color.  1'ut  them  in 
\vide-iMoutln-d  bottles,  cork  them  close,  and 
let  them  stand  a  fortnight  ;  then  caivfullv 
examine  them,  and  if  any  of  them  are 
mouldy  or  spitted,  take  them  out  of  the  bot- 
tles, and  cork  the  rest  close.  Put  the  bot- 
nid,  and  they  will  keep  good  till  the 
spring. 

l>  \MSON    DUMPLINGS.      Make   a 

good  hot  paste  crust,  roll  it  pretty  thin,  lay  il 
in  a  ba-in,  and  put  in  as  many  damsons  as 
you  plra.sc.  Wet  the  ed^'e  of  the  paste  and 
close  it  up  ;  l*»l  it  in  a  cloth  for  an  hour  ; 
(vnir  melteii  butter  over  it,  i^-ate  sugar  round 
e  of  the  dish,  and  serve. 

DAMSON  JELLY.     See  Jelly. 

I  MM  SON,    OR    OTHER    PLUM 

('lli:i:si;.  Take-  damsons  that  have  been 
I  without  siijrar;  |>a^  them  through 
a  sieve,  to  take  out  the  r-kins  and  stones. 
To  everv  |)..iiiui  of  pulp  of  fruit  put  half  a 
pound  of  loaf  su^ai ,  broke  sm:ill;  Ixiil  them 
together  till  it  Ix-comes  Miile  stilt';  pom  it 
into  t'Hir  c. ,m. noil  — i/ed  dinner  plates,  nib! led 
with  a  little  sweet  oil  ;  pni  it  into  ;i  warm 
dry,  and  uln-n  quite  firm,  take  il 
from  the  plate,  and  cut  it  into  any  sha|>e  von 
choose.  N.  l'». — I  >.i m-on  iheese  w  generally 
used  i 

DAMSONS     FOK    WIVIT.R    USE. 

Gatliei    ilit    ,1.1-n-oii.-  when  jn-t  ri|>c.and  per- 
.iinl  ;    till  a  two-<;;illon   br.iudy  kef;, 
and  pour  oxer  tuo|»Mlii<ls  ol'iii,,l;i:-ses;  el, «• 
tile  k,'^  lii  ink.  ami  turn  it  every  day. 

6* 


DEER  HORNS.      Beat  one  white,  and 

.six  yolks  of  c<;gs;  mix  them  with  live  table 
s[x>onfuls  of  pounded  and  silted  loaf  sugar, 
the  >aine  quantity  of  sweet  cream,  ten  sweet 
almonds,  blanched  and  pounded,  the  grated 
peel  of  one  lemon,  and  as  much  flour  as  will 
make  the  whole  into  a  paste  sufficiently 
thick  to  roll  out.  Then  cut  it  with  tins  for 
the  purpose,  into  the  form  of  horns,  branch- 
es, or  any  other  shape,  and  throw  them  into 
boiling  lard. 

DE VIL.  ( 1 )  Score  the  leg  of  a  roasted  tur- 
key, goose,  or  fowl;  pepper  and  salt  it  well, 
broil  it,  and  pour  over  it  the  following  sauce 
made  quite  Imt:  three  table-spoonfuls  of  gra- 
vy, one  of  melted  butter,  and  one  of  lemon 
juice,  a  large  vv  -iric-glass  of  Port  wine,  of 
mustard,  Chili  vinegar,  Harvey  sauce,  and 
mushroom  catchup,  a  lea-s|>oonful  each  ;  a  lit- 
tle Cayenne  and  pep|x-r.  The:  devil  may  be 
server!  without  a  sauce,  and  lie  more  highly 
seasoned.  When  this  dish  is  to  be  served 
cold,  the  fat  being  carefully  removed  from  the 
L'oose.  it  may  be  ornamented  or  covered  with 
cold  jelly  made  as  follows  : — Boil  for  five 
hours  in  four  quarts  of  water  the  bones  of  the 
yyise,  with  three  nicely  cleaned  calf's  feet, 
strain  it,  and  when  cold  take  oft'  all  the  fat, 
and  boil  the  jelly  with  .some  whole  pepper, 
ginger,  and  salt;  add  two  ounces  of  dissolv- 
ed isinglass,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and 
the  beaten  whiles  of  three  or  (bur  eggs;  stir 
it  while  it  is  ii|x>n  the  fire,  and  allow  it  to 
Ixjil  about  ten  minutes  ;  then  run  it  through 
a  jelly-liag,  and  re|x.-at  this  till  it  becomes 
quite  clear. 

DEVIL.  (2)  The  gizzard  and  rump,  or 
legs,  &c.  of  a  dressed  turkey,  capon,  or 
gOOM,  or  mutton  or  veal  kidney,  scored, 
peppered,  salted,  and  broiled,  sent  up  for  a 
relish,  being  m:ide  very  hot,  has  obtained 
the  name  of  a  "  devil." 

DEVONS mm-;  .IC.NKKT.  (i>  Turn 

some  new  milk  from  the  covv  with  a  little 
rennet  ;  sweeten  som«  thick  cream,  add  a 
little  founded  cinnamon,  make  it  scalding 
hot,  and  when  cold  |x>ur  il  over  il>  < -nrd, 
and  put  a  little  wine  and  sugar  into  the  bot- 
tom i  if  tin;  dish. 

DEVONSHIRE  JUNKET.  (2)  Turn 
some  new  milk,  as  for  cheese  cakes,  in  a 
wide  shallow  dish  ;  when  cold,  pour  over  the 
top  a  pint  of  rich  cream  mixed  with  pounded 
loaf  sugar,  six  dessert  spoonful*  of  brandy, 
and  some  grated  nnim-  _. 

DEVONSIlim;  WIIITK  POT.  Beat 
up  a  pint  of  r-n  am  with  four  eggs,  a  little 
>.ilt.  some  sliced  nutmeg,  and  a  good  deal  of 


DUC 


66 


DUC 


sugar;  then  slice  very  thin, almost  the;  whole 
of  the  crnm  of  a  [jenny  loaf ;  put  it  into  a 
dish  ;  pour  the  e^s  ;iml  cream  to  it  ;  a 
handful  nf  Sim  rim  raisins  boiled,  and  a 
little  sweet  butter  :  bake  it. 

DIGESTER.  An  iron  boiler,  with  a 
top  to  screw  on,  to  prevent  the  steam  from 
escaping. 

DRIPPINGS,  TO   CLARIFY.      Put 

your  dripping  into  a  clean  saucepan  over  a 
stove  or  slow  fire ;  when  it  is  just  going  to 
boil,  skim  it  well,  let  it  boil,  and'  then  let  it 
stand  till  it  is  a  little  cooled;  then  pour  it 
through  a  sieve  into  a  pan.  O6*. — Well- 
cleansed  drippings,  and  the  fat  skimmings 
of  die  broth-pot,  when  fresh  and  sweet,  will 
baste  everything  as  well  as  butter  except 
game  and  poultry,  and  should  supply  the 
place  of  biitter  for  common  fries,  &c.;  for 
which  they  are  cc|iial  lo  lard,  especially  it' 
you  rc|)oat  the  clariluag  twice  over.  .V  B. 
— If  you  keep  it  in  a  cool  place,  you  may 
presi;r\e  it  a  fortnight  in  summer,  and  long- 
er in  winter.  When  you  have  done  frying, 
let  the  dripping  stand  a  few  minutes  ;<>  Mt- 
tie,  and  then  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  a 
clean  basin  or  stone  pan,  and  it  will  do  a 
second  and  a  third  time  as  well  as  it  did 
the  first;  only  the  fat  you  have  fried  fish  in 
must  not  be  used  for  any  other  purpose. 

DRIXK,  COOLING.  A  palatable  and 
cooling  drink  may  be  made  by  pouring  hot 
water  over  slices  of  lemon ;  when  cold,  to 
be  strained  and  sweetened. 

DUCK.  Mind  your  duck  is  well  cleaned, 
and  wiped  out  with  a  clean  cloth:  for  tile 
stuffing,  take  an  ounce  of  onion  and  half  an 
ounce  of  green  sage;  chop  tliein  very  fine, 
and  mix  them  with  two  ounces,  i.  e.  about 
a  breakfast-cupful,  of  bread  crumbs,  a  bit 
of  butter  about  as  big  as  a  walnut,  a  very 
little  black  pepper  and  salt,  and  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  to  bind  it;  mix  these  thoroughly  to- 
getlier,  and  put  into  the  duck.  From  half 
to  three-quarters  of  an  hour  will  lie  enough 
t.i  r«ast  it,  uncording  to  the  size:  contrive 
to  have  the  feet  delicately  crisp,  as  some 
people  are  very  fond  of  them ;  to  do  this 
nicely  you  must  have  a  sharp  fire. 

DUCK,  TO  P.OIL.  Make  a  paste,  al- 
lowing half  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  pound  of 
fl-iur.  Truss  a  duck  as  for  l>oiliiig;  put  in- 
to the  inside  a  little  pcp|x>r  and  sill,  one  or 
two  sage  leaves,  and  a  little  onion  finely 
minced;  enclose  the  duck  in  the  paste,  with 
a  little  jellied  gravy.  Boil  it  in  a  cloth,  and 
serve  it  with  brown  gravy  poured  round  it. 

DUCKS,   TO    CHOOSE.     Tlrcir  feet 


should  be  supple,  and  they  should  1*  hard 
and  thick  on  the  breast  and  belly.  The  feet 
of  a  taine  duck  are  thick,  and  inclining  to  a 
dusky  \cllo\\.  The  feet  of  a  wild  duck  are 
reddi.-h,  and  smaller  than  the  tame  ;  they 
should  lie  picked  dry.  Ducklings  should  be 
scalded. 

DUCK,  DRESSED  IN  DIFFER  KM' 
\\"A  VS.  Take  either  a  large  duck,  or  two 
ducklings,  which  truss  like  a  fowl  lor  boil- 
ing ;  put  it  into  a  ]xit  (just  alxmt  lar<Te 
enough  to  hold  the  duck)  with  thin  slices  of 
Uicon,  a  little  stock,  a  glass  of  wine,  pepper, 
salt,  onions,  carrots,  a  head  of  celery  sliced, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  two  cloves,  and  a 
ba\-leaf ;  when  done,  take  out  the  duck, 
wipe  the  fat  off  very  clean,  and  serve  with 
what  sauce  or  ragout  \ou  choose,  such  as 
sweetbreads,  green-peas,  turnips,  chestnuts, 
olives,  cucumbers,  or  any  sort  of  .-tewed 
greens,  according  to  the  season. 

DUCKS,  GEESE,  DRESSED,  OR 
HASHKD.  Cut  an  onion  into  small  dice; 
put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  bit  of  butter; 
fry  it,  but  do  not  let  it  get  any  color;  put 
as  much  boiling  water  into  the  stewpan  as 
will  make  sauce  for  the  hash;  thicken  it 
with  a  little  flour;  cut  up  the  duck,  and  put 
it  into  the  sauce  to  warm;  do  not  let  it 
boil;  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
catchup.  Divide  the  duck  into  joints;  lay 
it  by  ready;  put  the  trimmings  and  stuffing 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
broth  or  water;  let  it  l»il  half  an  hour,  and 
then  rub  it  through  a  sieve;  put  half -an 
ounce  of  butter  into  a  stew  pan;  as  it  melts, 
mix  a  table-s|y.unful  of  flour  with  it;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  a  few  minutes,  tlien  mix  the 
gravy  with  it  by  decrees ;  as  scion  as  it  boils, 
take  oft  the  scum,  and  strain  through  a  sieve 
into  a  stewpan;  put  in  the  duck,  and  let  it 
stew  very  gently  for  ten  or  fil'i'  en  minutes, 
if  the  duck  IB  rather  under-roasted:  if  there 
is  any  flit,  skim  it  oil':  line  the  dish  you 
serve  it  up  in  with  sippets  of  bread  either 
fried  or  toasted. 

DUCK   OR  GOOSE  FORCED.     Cut 

the  ifin.se  o|X'ii  at  the  back,  and  farefullv 
take  out  the  lx>nes,  excepting  those  of  tlie 
legs  and  wiu^s.  Take  out  all  the  meat  from 
tile  l>ody,  leaving  the  skin  perfectly  whole. 
With  tile  meat  |xHind  three-<|uai  leis  of  a 
pound  of  lean  and  tender  beef,  add  three 
handfuls  of  grated  bread,  f-\\r  well-beaten 
e:;gs,  and  half  a  pint  of  rich  .-ueet  cream; 
season  with  pepper,  mace,  and  salt;  mix  it 
all  well  together;  let  it  Maud  for  half  an 
hour,  and  then  put  it  into  the  ii'xise,  which 
sew  up,  and  make  it  of  as  natural  a  form  as 
|X)ssible;  but  take  care  that  it  Ix;  not  t<x> 
much  stufied.  Boil  it  for  half  an  hour  in 


DUC 


67 


DUM 


•k,  and  then  put  it  into  a  (hit 

tin  baking-pan,  with  sonic  fresh  butter  over 

iind  under  it.      Bake  it  in  :in  oven  another 

half  IMMI-,  and  seiv   it  with  the   tallowing 

Krown    a    tnMe-apooaftll    <;|"  butler 

with    flour,   .idd    alxiut   n   pint  of  the  sto<  k 

in  which  ih  •  goose  has   been    Killed,    three 

ioiw,  :w>  tdbb-«por>nfuls  nf  r;\;  ers 

•   M    pi'-Ue.   and   a    tew 

small  pickled  onions;  lx>il  it  alxmt  a  qirar- 
ter  of  an  hour,  and  just  In-fore  pouring  it 
user  the  goose,  .-:tir  in  gradually  half  a  pint 
(ij'rivli  eiean:. 

IM'CK,    HASHKD,      Cut   a   duck    in 
pieces,  and  tlonr  it;   put  in  a  stew; 

liuli-  I'ori  \vine,  shallots,  chop|x-d 
fine,  salt,  pc-pix-r.  anil  a  liil  of  lemon  ;  Ixiil 
this  ;  then  put  in  the  dnrk,  toss  it  up,  take 
out  the  lemon,  and  serve  with  toa.-ted  sippets. 

DUCKS     KOASTKD.       Season     them 
with  sage  and  onion  shred,  |x-p|x-r  and  salt ; 
half  an  h-nir  will  roast  them.      (n.. 
or  onion  sau,  e.       Always  stew  the 
onion   in  a   little   water,  as   it   prevents    ils 
i ml  takes  off  Uie  rawness  of 
them. 

l>n  K.TOSTI'W.  (1)  Cut  one  or  two 

duck-i  into  <|iiarlcrs;  fry  them  a  light  brown 
in  liuttel •;  pin  them  into  a  saucepan,  with 
a  pint  of  gravy,  a  tea-<-npful  of  I'ort  wine, 
four  onions  whole,  |x-p;x?r  and  some  salt,  a 
Ixmch  of  |  xi  rs  Icy,  two  sage  leaves,  a  sprig 
of  winter  savory,  and  sweet  marjoram, 
i'jiver  (lie  pan  cl  isely,  and  stew  them  till  ten- 
di  i  ;  t.ike  on  I  the  herl  wand  pepper;  skim  it ; 
if  the  sauce  lie  not  MiliiricntK  thick,  mix  w  ill) 
t  A.,  t.il le-s|x>onfuls  of  it  a  little  Iloiir,  and 
stir  it  into  the  saucepan  ;  lx>il  it  up,  and 
:  the  dish  with  the  four  onions. 

1)1   CK.TOSTKW.  (2)  I'ulmloadmk 

Home  jx-pj-.  i.  .-.ill,  a  minced  onion,  and  one 

i'-o    minced;    lialf  roast    it; 

lnownwith    Im  '    linlier,  a   talile- 

F|»H)iilMl  iil'ii.mi  ;  add  as  mneli    \\>  • 

ui  water  as  will  half  cover  the  duck,  nixl 

£<jine  |  <  IIJXT  and  salt;   put  in  the  duck,  a.nl 

'.    l'ir  li.ill 

an  hour,  .-tin  i-:^  il  now  and  then.  I'or  a 
varii  l\ .  a  d  ./.•  i  'I  niiddling^bnd  onions 
may  !»•  su!i>lit;ileii  lor  tlie  |MMS,  and  stew- 
ed tile  Fame  len^lli  of  time.  Cold  roa.-!e,l 
dii'-k  m.i\  !»•  die-  -id  exactly  in  • 
manner;  and  I.,  lia.-li  il,  cut  it  into  joint.-, 
nnd  heat  il  ihoion^hK  in  utu\y,  adding  a 
lilllc  BO]  .  and  a  ;;i,ui!i  of  I'oit  wine. 

DKCK.   \\  II, I).      These  l)iids.-houldlw 

fat,  the  (  l.tw-  small,  reildisli  and  siippk'j    if 

.1,   on   o|N>ning  tlie   lx:ak    they    will 


.«nK-II  disr.'.'ni-alile  ;  the  lireast  and  rump 
should  l>e  firm  and  he-.ny  ;  the  flesh  of  the 
hm-hird  is  the  most  delicate,  though  tlx; 
rock  iienendlv  fetches  the  hiyln-t  price. 
Pick  them  dry,  cut  the  \\  \n^<  \ery  clo-e  to 
(lie  Nr(i\ .  take  off  tlie  necks,  draw  and  singe 
them,  truss  up  the  le^s  and  skewer  them  ; 
and  having  rnliU-d  them  with  tlie'ir  livers, 
spit,  and  roast  them  ;  take  them  up  with 
the  gravy  in,  and  serve  with  lemons. 

DICK,   WILD,   SALMIS  OF.     Cut 

oil'  the  Ix-st  parts  of  a  couple  of  roasted  wild 
ducks,  and  put  the  rest  of  tlie  meat  into  a 
mortar,  with  six  shallots,  a  little  parsley, 
some  pep|x?r,  and  a  liay-leaf,  pound  all  these 
ingredients  loyelher  well,  and  then  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  four  ladfesful  of  stock, 
half  a  glass  of  white  wine,  the  same  of 
broth,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg;  reduce 
:  ihese  to  half,  strain  them,  and  having  laid 
the  pieces  on  a  dish,  cover  them  with  tlie 
alxive  :  keep  the  whole  hot,  not  boiling,  un- 
til wanted  lor  table. 

DIMl'l  l.\(;s,  HARD.  Mixasfora 
',  paste,  some  flour  with  small  beer  or  water, 
and  a  little  salt;  roll  them  in  balls  rather 
larger  than  an  em; ;  when  the  water  boils 
put  them  in:  half  an  hour  will  Ixiil  them; 
currant.*  may  be  added ;  they  are  good  boil- 
ed with  Ix-ef.  They  are  eaten  eitlier  with 
cold  or  melted  butter. 

DCMl'LIiVGS,  HALF-HOUR.  Mince 
finely  half  a  pound  of  suet,  mix  it  with  tlie 
!  same  proportion  of  grated  bread,  and  a  ta- 
hle-s|M>ontid  of  tlonr,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  cm  ranis,  si. me  suipir,  a  little  grated  lem- 
on-|x-el,  nutmeg,  and  three  uell-lx-aten  eggs; 
roll  the  mixture  into  round  Udls,  tie  them 
in  bits,  of  linen,  and  lx>il  them  for  half  an 
hour.  Serve  w  ith  melted  butter  and 
[xmied  over  them. 

IH'.M1'I,I.\(;S,  NORFOLK.  With  a 
pint  of  milk,  two  egg*,  a  little  salt,  and 
.-ome.  lloiir,  make  a  Latter;  drop  this  in 
-mall  ijiiantilies  into  a  pot  of  boiling  w 
they  will  Ix;  boiled  in  three  minutes;  throw 
them  into  a  sieve  or  cullender  to  drain. 

IH'MI'l.l.V;   I'ASTE.     Make  a  paste 

with  (lour,  milk,  salt  and  yeast;  let  it  stand 
sometime  in  a  warm  place  to  ti-nnent;  then 
cut  the  pa-le  into  piecea  of  wh.ii  !/••  MHI 
i  please,  and  Ixiil  them  a  good  while;  let 
them  cool;  then  cut  each  into  two,  and 
H«k  them  in  milk,  sugar,  and  lemon-|x>el, 
alxmt  an  hour,  and  drain  and  tlonr  them  fit 
for  fiving;  or,  yon  may  dip  them  in  oil  or 
inched  Uitter  to  broil,  lusting  with  the 
..ey  were,  dipped  ill. 


EEL 


68 


EEL 


DUTCH    CREAM    CHEESE.      Beat 

the  yolks  of  eight,  and  the  whites  of  three 
eggs,  and  mix  them  with  a  pint  of  butter 
milk;  add  this  to  three  quarts  of  boiling 
milk  just  from  the  cow  ;  let  it  boil  up  once, 
take  it  off  the  fire,  cover  it,  and  let  it  stand 
a  little  that  the  curd  may  form ;  then  put  it 
into  a  small  hair  sieve,  and  press  it  witli  ;i 
weight  for  twenty-four  hours,  when  it  may- 
be turned  out.  It  is  eaten  with  cream  and 
sugar. 

DUTCH  FLUMMERY.  (1)  Boil, 
with  a  pint  of  white  wine,  some  sugar,  the 
juice  of  two,  and  the  peel  of  one  lemon,  a 
stick  of  cinnamon,  and  half  an  ounce  of  dis- 
solved isinglass;  strain,  and  mix  it  with  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  seven  eggs,  stir  it  over 
the  fire  till  it  simmer,  but  do  not  allow  it  to 
boil ;  stir  it  till  quite  cold,  and  put  it  into  a 
shape. 

DUTCH  FLUMMERY.  (2)  Boil  for 
ten  minutes,  in  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and 
the  same  proportion  of  water,  the  juice  of 
three,  and  the  peel  of  two  lemons,  rather 
more  dian  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar, 
and  an  ounce  of  isinglass  dissolved  ;  strain, 
and  mix  it  gradually  with  the  beaten  yolks 
of  five  eggs ;  put  it  again  over  the  fire,  and 
stir  it  for  live  minutes;  stir  it  till  cold,  and 
put  it  into  a  shape. 


E. 


ECHAUDE'S.  Lay  a  quartern  of  flour 
on  a  pasteboard  or  slab,  make  a  hole  in  tlie 
centre,  in  which  put  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  a 
little'  water  to  dissoUe  it,  a  pound  of  butter, 
twenty  eggs;  mix  the  two  latter  well  to- 
gether, then  the  flour;  work  it  thoroughly 
witli  your  hands,  if  it  be  very  firm  add  more 
eiru's.  When  perfectly  smooth,  sprinkle  a 
cloth  with  flour,  lay  the  paste  in  it,  and  set 
it  in  a  cool  place  for  ten  or  twi-lxe  hours. 
The  next  day  heat  about  three  quarts  of 
water,  and  having  cut  your  paste  into  small 
pieces,  about  an  inch  square,  and  having 
floured  each,  put  them  into  hot  but  not  boil- 
ing water,  shake  the  kettle  the  instant  after 
you  have  thrown  them  in,  and  as  they  rise. 
if  they  are  firm  to  the  touch,  they  are  suf- 
ficiently done,  and  must  be  taken  out  of  the 
saucepan,  and  thrown  into  cold  water;  let 
them  remain  two  or  three  hours ;  then  drain, 
and  leave  them  again  for  three  hours  or 
more,  and  then  bake  them  for  about  twenty 
minutes. 

EELS  AND  SOLES,  STEWED  Wio- 
GY'S  WAY.  Take  two  pounds  of  fine  sil- 


ver eels:  the  l>est  are  those  that  are  rather 
more  than  a  half-crown  piece  in  circumfer- 
ence, quite  fresh,  full  of  life,  and  "  as  brisk 
AS  an  eel:"  wash  them  in  several  different 
waters,  and  divide  them  into  pieces  alwiit 
four  inches  long.  Some  cooks,  dredge  them 
with  a  little  flour,  wipe  them  dry,  and  then 
egg  and  crumb  them,  and  fry  them  in  drip- 
pings till  they  are  brown,  and  lay  tliem  to 
dry  on  a  hair  sieve.  Have  ready  a  qirart 
of  good  beef  gravy;  it  must  be  cold  when 
you  put  tlie  eels  into  it :  set  tliem  on  a  slow- 
fire  to  simmer  very  gently  for  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  according  to  the  si/e  of  the 
eels;  watch  them,  that  they  are  not  done 
too  much ;  take  them  carefully  out  of  the 
stewpan  with  a  fish-slice,  so  as  not  to  tear 
their  coats,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  alx>ut 
two  inches  deep. 

EELS  BAKED.  Skin  and  clean  some 
eels;  take  a  shallow  pan,  and  cut  the  eels  in 
lengths  according  to  tlie  depth  of  tlie  pan ; 
put  them  in,  letting  them  stand  upright  in 
it;  the  pan  should  be  filled;  put  in  a  little 
water,  some  salt,  pepper,  shallots  cut  small, 
some  sweet  herbs,  and  a  little  parsley  cut 
small ;  set  them  in  the  oven  to  l>ake ;  when 
they  are  done  take  the  liquor  that  conies 
from  them,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  thick- 
en it  with  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
and  a  little  white  wine. 

EELS  BOILED.  Small  ones  are  pre- 
ferable. Curl  and  put  them  on  in  lioilhig 
salt-and-water,  with  a  little  vinegar.  Gar- 
nish with  parsley.  Sauce ; — parsley  and 
butter. 

EELS  COLLARED.  Take  an  eel,  and 
cut  it  open  ;  take  out  the  bones  ;  cut  oft'  the 
head  and  tail;  lay  llie  eel  flat,  and  shred 
sage  as  fine  as  possible;  mix  with  black 
pepper  pounded,  nutincL'  urated,  and  salt; 
lay  it  all  over  the  eel:  mil  it  up  hard  in  a 
cloth;  tie  it  up  tight  at  each  end;  then  set 
over  the  fire  some  water,  with  pepper  and 
salt,  five  or  six  cloves,  three  or  four  blades 
of  mace,  a  bay-leaf  or  two;  boil  these  uiih 
the  bones,  head,  and  tail,  well ;  then  put  in 
the  eel,  and  boil  it  till  it  is  tender;  then  take 
it  out,  and  boil  the  liquor,  and  when  it  is 
cold,  put  it  to  the  eel ;  do  not  take  off  the 
cloth  till  you  use  them. 

EELS  FRIED.  Cut  tliem  into  pieces 
of  three  or  four  inches  long,  and  then  score 
across  in  two  or  three  places;  season  them 
with  pepper  and  salt,and  dust  tliem  w  ith  flour, 
or  dip  them  into  an  egg  U-at  up,  and  sprinkle 
them  with  finely-grated  bread  crumbs ;  fry 
them  in  fresh  lard  or  dripping.  I-et  them 
drain  and  dry  upon  the  back  of  a  sieve  be- 
fore the  fire.  Garnish  witli  parsley.  Sauce ; 


EEL 


69 


EGG 


— melted  butter,  and  lemon  pickle.  If  small, 
they  may  be  curled  and  fried  whole. 

EEL  PIE.  Take  eels  alxnit  half  a  [xmnd 
each;  cut  them  into  pieces three  inches  lout:. 
season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  till 
your  dish.  Add  a  gill  of  water  or  veal 
broth,  cover  it  with  paste,  rub  it  over  with  a 
paste-brush  dipped  in  yolk  of  egg,  ornament 
it  with  some  of  the  same  paste,  bake  it  an 
hour;  and  when  done,  make  a  hole  in  the 
centre,  and  pour  in  the  fallowing  sauce 
through  a  tunnel:  the  trimmings  boiled  in 
half  a  pint  of  veal  stock,  seasoned  with  pep- 
per anil  salt,  a  table-spixmful  of  lemon-juice, 
and  thickened  with  flour  and  water,  strained 
through  a  tine  sieve:  add  it  boiling  hot. 

EELS  POTTED.  Bone  them;  season 
them  uell  n|>on  both  sides  with  pepper,  salt, 
a  little  mace,  and  Jamaica  |>epper;  let  them 
lie  for  six  hours,  then  cut  them  into  small 
pieces,  and  pack  them  close  into  a  dish; 
cover  them  with  a  coarse  paste  and  bake 
ili'  in.  When  quite  cold,  take  off  the  paste, 
and  pour  over  them  clarified  butter. 

EEL  SOUP.     See  Soups. 

EELS  STEWED.     (1)     Cut  the  eels 

into  pieces  alxnit  lour  inches  long;  take  two 
onions,  two  shallots,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
tliMn.  .  two  |M\  leaves,  a  little  mace,  black 
and  Jamaica  pepper,  a  pint  of  good  gravy, 
of  I'ort  wine,  and  the  same  of  vin- 
egar, six  ancho\ies  liiui-i'il;  let  all  boil  to- 
gether for  ten  minutes;  take  out  the  eels; 
txjil  the  sauce  till  reduced  to  a  i|iiart;  strain 
anil  thicken  it  with  a  table-s|XM»nfnl  of  floor, 
uooth  in  a  little  cold  water.  Put 
in  the  11!-.  and  lx>il  them  till  they  are  ten- 
der. Eels  may  also  be  roasted  with  a  coni- 

KF.I.S  STFAVED.     (2)     Cut  tin  eels 

into  pieei--,  season  well  two  pounds  and  a 
half  u  ith  salt  and  Mack  |x-|>|>er,  put  an  ounce 
of  batter  into  a  stewpan  with  a  large  handful 

,  three  or  timr  sa^re  leaves,  half  an 
onion  .  'ii  small,  a  little  grated  lemon-|>eel, 

and  anchovy  chopjx-d ;  put  in  tile  eels 

and  |xmr  over  half  a  pint  of  water,  stew 

iiv  for  half  an  hour,  shaking  them 

!K  ;  Ix-fore    serving,   add    a   little 

grated  nutmeg,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

EELS  SPITCHCOCKED.  This  tl>e/ 
French  cook*  call  the  English  way  of  dress- 
ing eeL".  Take  two  inid(llin^-si/.cil  silver 
eefc,  scour  tliem  with  salt,  slit  thorn  on  the 
Uhrcide,  and  lake  out  the  bones  and  wash 
and  wipe  them  niceJy:  then  cut  them  into 
pieces  alx.nt  tliree  inches  long,  and  wipe 
Uiern  quite  dry ;  (Hit  two  ounces  of  butter 


into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  minced  parsley, 
thyme,  sage,  pepper,  ami  salt,  and  a  very 
little  chnpjwd  eschalot  ;  set  the  slewpan 
over  the  fire  ;  when  the  butter  is  melted, 
stir  the  ingredients  together,  and  take  it  off 
tlie  fire,  mix  die  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  them, 
and  dip  the  eel  in,  a  piece  at  a  time,  and 
then  roll  tliem  in  bread-crumbs,  making  as 
much  stick  to  tliem  as  you  can  ;  then  rub 
the  gridiron  with  a  bit  of  suet,  set  it  high 
over  a  very  clear  fire,  and  broil  your  eels  of 
a  line  crisp  brown.  Dish  them  with  crisp 
parsley,  and  send  up  with  plain  butter  in  a 
boat,  and  anchovy  and  butter.  , 

EGGS.  (1)  Eggs  may  be  preserved  for 
twelve  month-,  in  a  sweet  and  palatable  state 
for  eating  in  the  shell,  or  using  for  salads,  by 
Ixiiling  them  for  one  minute;  and  when 
wanted  for  use  let  tliem  be  boiled  in  the 
usual  manner:  tha  white  may  be  a  little 
toucher  than  a  new-laid  egg,  but  the  yolk 
will  show  no  difference. 

EGGS.  (2)  Pour  a  gallon  of  water 
over  a  pound  of  unslacked  lime,  stir  it  well; 
tlw  following  day,  pour  off  the  clear  water 
into  a  jar,  and  put  in  the  eggs  as  they  are 
laid.  In  this  manner  they  will  continue 
perfectly  good  for  six  months  or  more. 

There  are  so  many  different  ways  of 
dressing  eggs,  that  the  recipes  would  almost 
till  a  volume;  we  have,  therefore,  given  such 
as  we  esteem  the  best,  and  the  most  adapted 
to  the  English  taste. 

EGGS     AND    BACON     RAGOUT. 

Boil  half  a  dozen  eggs  for  ten  minutes; 
throw  them  into  cold  water;  peel  them  and 
cut  them  into  hahes;  pound  the  yolks  in  a 
marble  mortar,  with  about  an  equal  quantity 
of  the  white  mi-.it  of  dressed  fowl,  or  \eal,  a 
little  clio|i|x-d  parsley,  an  anchovy,  an  escha- 
lot, a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup,  a  little  Cay- 
enne, some  bread-cmnibi,  and  a  very  little 
Ix-atcu  mace,  or  allspice;  incorporate  them 
well  togetlier,  and  till  the  halves  of  the 
whites  with  this  mixture ;  do  them  over 
witli  (he  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  brown  tliem  in 
a  Dutch  oven,  and  serve  them  on  relishing  . 
rashers  of  bacon  or  ham. 

,/EGGS  AND  BREAD.  Put  half  a  hand- 
ful of  bread  crumbs  into  a  saucepan,  with  a 
small  quantity  of  cream,  Kilt,  pepper,  and 
nutmeg,  and  let  it  stand  till  die  bread  has 
i  ml  n!  »-d  all  the  cream ;  then  break  ten  egge 
into  it,  and  having  Ix-aten  them  up  together, 
fry  it  like  an  omelet.  , 

EGGS  AND  CREAM.  Boil  half  a  pint 
of  cream  till  reduced  to  half  the  quantity; 
then  add  eight  eggs,  season  them  with  salt 


EGG 


70 


EGG 


and  pepper,  toil  them  together,  till  the  eggs 
are  partly  hard ;  pass  ;i  salamander  over  tlie 
top,  and  serve. 

EGGS  A  LA  TRIPE.  Cut  into  thick 
round  slices  a  dozen  of  hard-lx>iled  eggs, 
and  put  them  into  the  following  sauce:  cut 
three  large  white  onions  into  dice,  fry  tliem 
white  in  butter,  and  when  nearly  done,  dust 
them  with  flour,  and  moisten  them  with  some 
milk  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cream;  keep 
stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon,  to  prevent 
their  burning.  When  the  sauce  is  done, 
grate  in  a  little  nutmeg,  season  with  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  and  put  iu  the  eggs. 

EGG  BALLS.  Boil  four  eggs  for  ten 
minutes,  and  put  diem  into  cold  water;  when 
they  are  quite  cold,  put  the  yolks  into  a 
mortar  with  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  same  of  chopped  parsley, 
ns  much  salt  as  will  lie  on  a  shilling,  and  a 
little  black  pepper,  or  Cayenne;  rub  them 
well  together,  roll  them  into  small  balls  (as 
the\  suell  in  boiling);  boil  them  a  couple 
of  minutes. 

EGGS    BOILED,   TO   EAT   IN   THE 

SHKLI.,  OR  FOR  SALADS.  The  fresher 
laid  the  better:  put  them  into  boiling  water; 
if  you  like  the  white  just  set,  about  two 
minutes  boiling  is  enough;  a  new-laid  egg 
will  take  a  little  more;  if  you  wish  the  yolk 
to  l«  set,  it  will  take  three,  and  to  boil  it 
hard  for  a  salad,  ten  minutes.  A  new-laid 
egg  will  require  boiling  longer  than  a  stale 
one,  by  half  a  minute. 

EGGS  BOURGEOISE.  Spread  some 
butter  over  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  cover  it 
entirely  with  thin  slices  of  crumb  of  bread, 
on  that  lay  thin  slices  of  cheese,  then  eight 
or  ten  eggs,  season  them  with  salt,  pepper 
and  nutmeg,  set  the  dish  over  a  stove  to  cook 
gently  till  done. 

EGGS,  BUTTERED.    Beat  and  strain 

ten  or  twelve  egffs ;  nut  a  piece  of  butter  into 

i  i  • 

a   saucepan  and  keep  turning  it  one   way 

till  melted ;  put  in  the  beaten  eggs,  and  stir 
them  round  with  a  silver  spoon  till  they  be- 
come quite  thick.  Serve  them  in  a  dish 
upon  buttered  toast.  They  may  be  eaten 
with  fish,  fowl,  or  sausages. 

EGGS  EN  SURPRISE.  Take  a  dozen 
eggs,  and  make  a  small  hole  at  each  end  of 
every  egg,  through  which  pass  a  straw  and 
break  the  yolk ;  then  blow  out  the  yolk  care- 
fully. Wash  the  shells,  and  having  drained, 
dry  them  in  the  open  air ;  mix  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  with  a  little  flour  to  close  one  of  the 
holes  of  the  shells,  and  when  dry,  fill  half  the 
Dumber  by  means  of  a  small  funnel,  with 


chocolate  cream,  and  the  remaining  six  with 
coffee  or  orange-cream ;  close  the  other  end 
of  your  eggs,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
of  hot  water;  set  them  on  the  fire,  taking 
care  they  do  not  boil ;  when  done,  remove 
ilie  cement  from  the  ends;  dry,  and  serve 
them  on  a  folded  napkin. 

EGGS,  FRIED.  Eggs  boiled  hard,  cut 
into  slices,  and  fried,  may  be  served  as  a 
second  course  dish,  to  eat  with  roasted 
chickens. 

EGGS  FRIED  WITH  BACON.     Lay 

some  slices  of  fine  streaked  bacon  (not  more 
than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick)  in  a  clean 
dish,  and  toast  them  before  the  fire  in  a 
cheese-toaster,  turning  diem  when  the  upper 
side  is  browned  ;  first  ask  those  who  are  to 
eat  the  bacon,  if  they  wish  it  much  or  little 
done,  f.  e.  curled  and  crisped,  or  mellow 
and  soft:  if  the  latter,  parboil  it  first.  Well- 
cleansed  dripping,  or  lard,  or  fresh  butter, 
are  the  best  fats  for  frying  eggs.  Be  sure 
the  frying-pan  is  quite  clean ;  when  the  fat 
is  hot,  break  two  or  three  eggs  into  it ;  do 
not  turn  them,  but,  while  they  are  frying, 
keep  pouring  some  of  the  fat  over  them  with 
a  spoon ;  when  the  yolk  just  begins  to  look 
white,  which  it  will  in  about  a  couple  of 
minutes,  they  are  done  enough;  the  white 
must  nut  Inse  its  transparency,  but,  the  yolk 
be  seen  blushing  through  it:  if  they  are 
done  nicely,  they  will  look  as  white  and 
delicate  as  if  they  had  been  poached ;  take 
them  up  with  a  tin  slice,  drain  the  fat  from 
them,  trim  them  neatly,  and  send  them  up 
with  the  bacon  round  them. 

EGGS  FRIED,  AND  MINCED  HAM 

OR  BACON.  Choose  some  fine  salt  pork, 
streaked  with  a  good  deal  of  lean ;  cut  this 
into  very  thin  slices,  and  afterward  into 
small  square  pieces;  throw  them  into  a 
stewpan,  and  set  it  ever  a  gentle  fire,  that 
they  may  lose  some  of  their  fat.  When  as 
much  as  will  freely  come  is  thus  melted  from 
them,  lay  them  on  a  warm  dish.  Put  into 
;i  sieupan  a  ladle-full  of  melted  bacon  or 
lard ;  set  it  on  a  stove ;  put  in  about  a  dozen 
of  the  small  pieces  of  bacon,  then  stoop  the 
stewpan  and  break  in  an  egg.  Manage  this 
carefully,  and  the  egg  will  presently  be  done: 
it  will  l>e  very  round,  and  the  little  dice  of 
bacon  will  stick  to  it  all  over,  so  that  it  will 
make  a  very  pretty  appearance.  Take  care 
the  yolks  do  not  harden ;  when  the  egg  is 
thus  done,  lay  it  carefully  in  a  warm  dish, 
and  do  i  he  others. 

EGG  FRITTERS.  Pound  a  dozen 
hard  boiled  eggs  with  a  little  cream,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  marrow;  then 
pound  half  a  dozen  macaroons,  some  bitter 


EG  G 


71  ELD 


almond*,  a  little  sugar,  and  lemon-peel ; 
mix  these  with  the  |x>unded  e:.rgs,  and  form 
them  into  fritters,  dip  them  into  a  tauter 
made  with  Huur,  butter,  salt,  and  lemon- 
peel;  fry  them  in  very  liot  hird,  sprinkle  su- 
g-ar  oxer,  and  serve. 

K<  ;<  iS  FROTHED.  Beat  up  the  yolks 
of  einht  eims  ami  tile  whites  of  four  (set 
aside  thr  reiiiai'iiiii;  whites)  with  a  spoonful 
of  water,  smile  salt,  sugar,  and  tile  juice  ofa 
leui'in;  fry  this,  and  then  put  it  on  a  dish; 
whip  the  (i-Hir  whites  (which  were  set  aside) 
to  :i  t'.oih  with  sugar,  and  place  it  over  the 
%s;  hake  it  in  ,1  Dutch  oven,  or  with 
a  hiu'h  !•.  >\er  lilted  for  tile  purpose. 

1'iiiiS,  (Jl.VSS.  Butter  a  dish,  ami 
break  into  it  ;i  pieee  of  butter  nearly  as  large 
as  an  e^:  add  a  tea-<-iipfiil  of  cream,  and 
drop  in  f.mr  or  live  eggs;  put  ujxm  each  a 
little  pep|x>r  and  salt,  set  the  dish  upon  a 
:  x-rxe  it  xx  lieu  tin-  e.'^s  are  firm, 
which  m  i\  !»•  in  ten  or  liftitMi  minutes. 

EG<;  MARMALADE.  (1)  BlaMi-h  and 
pound  with  a  little  rose  water,  two  ounces  of 
sxxectahnond';,  the  same  of  orange  marmalade, 
and  fnir  of  citron  ;  add  txio  -pooufnls  of  bran- 
dy, and  when  quite  smooth,  the  beaten  yoBu  of 
six  and  the  whiles  r>f  two  eggs,  with  a  little 
pounded  loafsn^ar;  put  it  into  a  saucepan, 
and  stir  it  till  it  t>eroines  thick,  then  pour  it 
into  a  sh:i|>e.  When  quite  cold,  serve  it, 
turned  out  am!  garnished  with  (lowers. 

K<;<;  MARMALADE.  (2)  clarify  a  pound 

of  sugar,  keeping  it  rather  thick  ;  when  cool, 
add  to  it  the  xolks  of  twenty  ej;^--,  which 
should  !»•  |>ei|.-ctl\  fi>T  lioin  the  whiten,  and 
well  stirred,  Imt  not  lieaten;  aet  these  on 

•tin  ing  continually  tuitil  it  lioils,  and 
then  eniiliiine  to  stir  until  sufficiently  thiek  ; 

i.n  -h  mid  arise,  it  need  not  }«•  taken 
off,  a-  the  Ixiilini;  and  stirring  uiU  effectually 
rem  i\e  it.  (  >i.n'i.'i  -ll.nuT  water  may  be 
added,  if  approved. 

K(i«iS.  TO  I'OACH.  The  cook  who 
wishes  t.i  disjilay  her  skill  in  poaching, 
must  endeavour  to  procure  es^s  that  have 
been  laiil  a  couple  of  daxs — those  that  are 
i|ni'e  new-laid  ate  .-o  inilUx  that,  take  :ill 
the  care  yon  can,  your  cookiii;;  of  them  will 
seldom  procure  xmi  the  piaix-  of  Ix-in^  a 
prune  puncher;  you  must  haxi-  I'le-ii  ei-,-*, 
or  il  is  e;|iuillx  uii|).«<sil.le.  The  U-auly  of 
a  p  inched  t^a  is  for  the  yolk  to  be  seen 
blushing  t!irou<r|i  the  while,  which  shoulil 
only  IH-  |ii>l  -  illicientlx  hiudeneil,  to  form  a 
trail-pare!]-  \e||  f,,r  the  egg.  H^i 
boiling  water  in  a  tea-kettle;  pa-s  a<  much 
of  it  throii-h  .i  rli-aii  elolh  as  will  half  till  a 
Ktexv|>aii;  bn  jk  the  egg  into  a  cup,  and 


when  the  water  boib,  remove  the  stewpan 
from  the  stove,  and  gently  slip  the  egg  into 
it ;  it  must  stand  till  the  xvhite  is  set ;  then 
put  it  oxer  a  very  moderate  fire,  and  as  soon 
a*  the  water  boils,  the  egg  is  ready;  take  it 
up  with  a  slice,  and  neatly  round  off  the 
ragged  edges  of  the  xvhite;  send  them  up  on 
bread  to;isted  on  one  side  only,  with  or  xvith- 
out  butter;  or  without  a  toast,  garnished 
with  streaked  bacon  nicely  fried,  or  j-lices 
of  broiled  beef  or  mutton,  anchoxii  >.  |n,rk 
sausages,  or  spinage.  The  bread  should  1« 
a  little  larger  than  the  egg,  and  aliout  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  only  just  u'ixc  it  a 
yellow  color:  if  you  toast  it  brown,  it  will 
get  a  bitter  flavour;  or  moisten  it  by  |xmr- 
mg  a  little  hot  water  upon  it:  some  sprinkle 
it  with  a  few  drops  of  vinegar,  or  of  essence 
of  anchovy. 

K(i(;s  POACHED,  WITH  SAUCE  OF 
MINCED  HAM.  I'oach  the  eggs  as  before 
directed,  and  take  two  or  three  slices  of 
lx>ilcd  ham;  mince  it  fine  with  a  gherkin,  a 
morsel  of  onion,  a  little  parsley,  and  |>epper 
and  salt ;  stew  all  together  a  quarter  of  ail 
hour;  serve  up  your  saiieealxiul  half  boiling; 
put  the  e|,'<;s  in  a  dish,  squeeze  over  the  juice 
of  half  a  .Seville  orange,  or  lemon,  and  JXHIT 
the  sauce  over  them. 

EGG  PUNCH.  Take  a  punch--la>.<, 
and  put  into  it  a  xvinc-gla.-s  (if  sirup  of  punch 
(see  that  article),  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg; 
Ix-at  them  together  xvith  a  spoon,  and  then 
fill  up  the  glass  with  boiling  water,  stirring 
a  little  as  xou  pour  it  in. 

EGG  TOAST.  Put  a  glass  of  thick 
cream,  some  sugar,  two  or  three  macaroons 
|xinnded,  w  itli  a  fexv  almonds,  a  little  grated 
lemon,  give  them  a  boil;  then  add  the  yolks 
of  eight  and  whites  of  three  eggs,  Ix-at  the 
whole  up  over  a  slow  fire;  and  lay  on  very 
thin  slices  of  fried  bread ;  sprinkle  sugar 
over,  and  serve. 

EGG  WINE.  Beat  up  an  egg,  mix  with 
it  a  spoonful  of  cold  water ;  set  on  the  fire  a 

glass  of  xvhite  wine,  half  a  «l:tss  of  water, 
.-ii'/ar,  and  nutmeg.  When  it  Ixiils,  |x>ur  a 
little  of  it  to  the  p^g  by  degree--,  till  the 
whole  is  in,  stirring  it  well;  then  return  the 
wliole  into  the  saucepan,  set  it  over  a  uentle 
•  fire, stir  it  one  way  for  a  minute,  not  longer, 
1  for  if  it  boil,  or  the  egg  is  stale,  it  will  cm  .lie ; 
SWlll  with  toast.  You  may  make  it  as  above, 
without  xvarmiir^  the  (•_",'.  and  it  xvill  be 
lighter  on  the  stomach,  though  not  so  agree- 
able to  the  palate. 

ELDER  Fl.mVI.K  FRITTERS. 
They  are  made  whilst  tlw  elder  flowers  are 
in  blixuii ;  and  they  should  marinate  three 


END 


72 


ESP 


or  four  hours  in  brandy,  sugar,  orange-flower 
water,  and  lemon-peel;  when  drained,  dip 
them  in  a  good  thick  batter  to  fry,  and  serve 
with  rasped  sugar,  as  in  general. 

ELDER  ROB.  Gather  the  elderberries 
when  quite  ripe,  put  them  into  a  stone  jar, 
tie  a  bladder  or  paper  over  the  top,  and 
plan-  the  jar  in  a  pan  of  water ;  let  it  boil 
till  the  berries  are  very  soft;  strain  them 
through  a  coarse  cloth,  and  to  every  pint  of 
juice  allow  half  a  pound  of  good  brown  su- 
gar; put  it  into  a  preserving-pan,  stir  it,  and 
when  it  boils,  take  off  the  scum,  and  let  it 
boil  for  one  hour. 

ELDER  VINEGAR.  Choose  the  elder- 
flowers  when  just  blown,  lake  away  all  the 
stalks,  and  when  the  flowers  are  alx>ut 
half  dry,  put  them  into  a  jar,  and  fill  the  jar 
with  \inegar,  close  it  tight,  and  let  it  stand 
in  die  sun  for  twenty  days ;  then  draw  it  off, 
press  the  flowers,  and  having  filtered  the 
whole,  bottle  it;  take  care  to  keep  the  bot- 
tles closely  corked. 

ELDERBERRIES.  Can  be  made  to 
produce  excellent  wine,  allowing  to  a  ten- 
gallon  cask  forty  pounds  of  fruit,  forty  pounds 
of  sugar,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  tartar. 
When  elderberry  wine  is  desired  for  a  warm 
cordial,  it  is  made  in  the  following  manner: 
— Twenty-five  pounds  of  fruit  are  to  be  boil- 
ed for  an  hour,  in  eleven  gallons  of  watci , 
and  along  with  it,  tied  in  a  piece  of  linen, 
one  ounce  of  allspice,  and  two  of  ginger; 
forty  pounds  of  sugar  being  put  into  a  tub, 
die  boiling  liquor  is  strained  over  it,  pressing 
the  fruit  quite  dry ;  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
crude  tartar,  or  cream  of  tartar,  is  dieu 
added  to  the  liquid.  When  it  has  stood  two 
days  in  the  tub,  it  may  lie  removed  to  the 
cask,  treated,  as  for  sweet  wuie,  in  the  usual 
manner,  and  bottled  in  March  following. 
When  to  be  drank,  a  portion  of  it  is  heated 
with  some  sugar,  two  or  three  cloves,  and  a 
little  nutmeg. 

EM  POT  AGE.  Put  into  a  large  sauce- 
pan, three  or  four  pounds  of  beef-steaks,  a 
knuckle  of  veal,  and  four  old  liens ;  moisten 
this  quantity  of  meat  with  two  ladlcsful  of 
broth ;  set  it  on  a  stove,  and  let  it  boil  till 
properly  reduced,  taking  care  that  none  of 
the  meat  burns,  which  would  make  the 
empotage  of  too  high  a  color ;  fill  up  your 
saucepan  with  broth,  adding  carrots,  turnips, 
and  onions;  let  all  lliese  ingredients  stand 
over  the  fire  for  three  hours  and  a  half;  then 
strain  the  whole  tlirough  a  silk  sieve,  that 
it  may  be  perfectly  clear. 

ENDIVE  IN  VELOUTE.  Take  off 
all  the  outer  leaves  of  your  endive,  and  having 


opened  tlie  hearts,  put  tliem  into  cold  water 
to  wa>h  them.  In  the  meanwhile  heat  a 
kettle  of  water,  put  in  it  a  handful  of  salt, 
then  throw  in  the  endive ;  keep  it  constantly 
under  the  water,  to  prevent  their  turning 
black.  As  soon  as  the  endive  is  tender, 
drain,  and  then  put  it  into  cold  water,  and 
when  quite  cold,  drain  it  again  ;  press  the 
water  out  with  your  hands  ;  then  chop  it 
small,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  some 
butler,  sail,  and  pepper,  stir  it  well,  and 
then  add  five  spoonfuls  of  veloute,  the  same 
of  consomme;  reduce  it  till  pretty  thick,  and 
then  put  it  in  a  dish,  with  fried  bread  round 
it.  Endive  may  also  be  dressed  with  cream, 
in  which  case,  put  two  spoonfuls  of  flour  into 
it,  and  moisten  it  with  cream. 

ENDIVE  IN  GRAVY  OF  VEAL. 

Wash  and  clean  thoroughly  ten  or  twelve 
heads  of  fine  endive,  take  off  the  outer  leaves, 
and  blanch  the  heads  in  hot  w  ater ;  throw 
them  into  cold  water,  and  then  squeeze  them 
as  dry  as  possible.  Stew  them  in  as  much 
gravy  as  will  cover  them;  add  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  pounded  sugar,  and  a  little  silt .  Wlien 
perfectly  tender,  put  in  a  little  veloute  sauce, 
and  serve  quite  hot. 

ENTREE.  There  is  no  word  precisely 
equivalent  to  this  in  English.  Any  dish  of 
butcher 's  meat,  fowl,  game,  or  fish,  dressed 
for  the  first  course,  is  called  an  entree. 

ENTREMET.  There  is  no  word  equiv- 
alent to  this  in  English.  All  dishes  of  veg- 
etables, jellies,  pastries,  salad,  prawns,  lob- 
sterV,  and,  in  general,  everything  that  appears 
iu  the  second  course,  except  the  roast,  is 
called  an  entremet. 

ESCHALOT  WINE.  Peel,  mince,  and 
pound  in  a  mortar,  three  ounces  of  eschalots, 
and  infuse  them  in  a  pint  of  Sherry  for  ten 
days;  then  pour  off  the  clear  liquor  on  three 
ounces  more  eschalots,  and  let  the  wine 
stand  on  them  ten  days  longer.  This  is 
rather  the  most  expensive,  but  infinitely 
the  most  elegant  preparation  of  eschalot, 
and  imparts  the  onion  flavour  to  soups  and 
sauces,  for  chops,  steaks,  or  broiled  meats, 
hashes,  &c.  more  agreeably  than  any  : 
it  does  not  leave  any  unpleasant  taste  in 
die  moudi,  or  to  die  breath  ;  nor  repeat, 
as  almost  all  odier  preparations  of  garlic, 
onion,  &c.  do.  N.  B. — An  ounce  of  scraped 
horseradish  may  be  added  to  die  above,  and 
a  little  thin-cut  lemon-peel. 

ESPAGNOLE.  Take  an  old  fowl,  and 
about  fourteen  pounds  of  leg  or  shoulder  of 
veal ;  chop  the  latter  into  pieces,  and  put  it, 
with  very  little  water,  into  a  large  saucepan, 
widi  two  carrots,  three  onions,  a  pound  of 


FIL 


73 


FIS 


ham,  a  few  peppercorns,  a  small  quantity  of 
fipice,  and  a  clove  of  ;:irlic;  1ft  this  stew 
ovi-r  i  moderate  lire,  shaking  it  freqne:iily, 
till  it  Ix-co ini'S  of  a  brown  color,  when  you 
m:iy  :iilil  to  it  :i  snllicietit  quantity  of  hot 
water,  to  eome  alxmt  four  inches  :ilx>ve  tlie 
me.it.  Set  il  bv  llie  side  nf  the  stove  tolxiil 
gently,  skimming  when  neei-ssary,  till  tlie 
meat  conies  from  tin;  bones;  then  "train  it 
through  ;i  silk  sieve,  and  set  it  by  for  use. 

!  •>  -  I :  \  <  T..  Take  half  a  Ix.ttle  of  white 
wine,  half  a  glass  of  the  best  vinegar,  the 
jui.-e  of  two  lemons,  three  ounces  of  salt, 
half  an  ounce  of  whole  ]x'pper,  a  little  nut- 
Hk".'  and  ina'-e.  four  cloves,  four  bay -leaves, 
thyme,  parsley,  one  small  clove  of  garlic,  ten 
shallots,  |xiundcd,  and  an  o.mce of  dry  mush- 
room-; put  all  these  ingredients  into  an 
earthen  pan,  over  a  brisk  lire;  when  near 
boiling,  lessen  the  fire,  and  let  it  stand 
on  hot  asiies  («r  six  or  seven  hours;  then 
strain  it  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  after- 
wards lilter  it.  Keep  it  in  closely  corked 
i  small  quantity  is  sufficient  to  fla- 
vour a  dish. 


P. 


F  V  \(  I  K  >  \ETTE8.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan, two  ounces  of  flour,  three  of  sugar,  one 
of  butter,  two  of  pounded  almonds,  some 

iuii-|x-cl,  two  \-iiks-,  and  one  whole 
'',  and   half  a  pint  of  milk  ; 
•licnts  on  the  fire,  and  let  them 
.«et  likt;  a  cream;    lin  i-tins,  or 

moulds,  with  pnjf  pa:-tc,  till  them  with  the 
•  >n;    place  the  moulds  on  a  tin,  and 
h;ikc  the/ancAonefte*in  a  brisk  oven;  when 
about  (I n-  i  •,  take  them  out,  put 

.  sprinkle  sn<,'ar  over,  and  re- 
place them  in  the  OM-H  to  finish  the  baking. 

V,      Like  a  Fucking  pig,  should  Ix- 
:    as  soon   as  killed.     When 
ing,  it  is  trussed,  stuffed,  and  sjiit- 
\\uy  as,  a  hare:  but  they  are 
•ring    when  of  thf>   size   of  a    BOOM 
lamb,  u:id  arc  then  roasted  in  quarters;   the 
liind-qir.irtcr  is  most  esteemed. 

They  insist  lie  put  down    to   a  very  quirk 
either  basted  all  the  time  they  an- 
•  d  with  utv 
,-tc  it  with  butter,  and 
;     .  •    and   llour,  till 

c  froth  on  it. 

N.  I'. — We  advise  our  friends  to  half 
roast  a  fawn  as  soon  aa  they  receive  it,  and 
then  main-  a  hash  of  it. 

;>  M-nimn  sauce  with  it. 


FILBERT   ROLLS. 
7 


Having  peeled 


h:\lf  a  pound  of  filberts,   put  them   into  a 

pn-srmng  p:ui  over  ;i  moderate  fire,  and 
stir  them  constantly  with  a  spntnla  until 
the\  become  e<|nally  coloreil  of  a  li^llt  yel- 
low: th'.'ii  set  them  to  cool.  When  cold, 
jxiiiiid  till-in  with  a  little  white  of  , 
paste;  then  mix  them  with  half  a  [xmnd  of 
Hour,  the  same  of  po\vder  sii^nir,  and  the 
yolks  .if  four  or  five  eggs,  ami  then  finish 
tlie  operation  as  directed  for  almond  roUt. 
Froth,  and  trace  on  the  surtace  an  ear  of 
wheat,  or  anything  else,  with  the  point  of  a 
knife:  take  care  to  dry  them  well  in  the 
baking,  that  they  may  be  crisp.  Coarse 
powder  sugar  may  also  be  strewed  over,  be- 
fore they  are  put  in  the  oven. 

FISH.  We  intert  all  the  beat  remark* 
that  various  culinary  authors  have  made 
on  FISH. 

There  is  a  general  rule  in  choosing 
most  kinds  of  fish;  if  their  gills  are  red, 
their  eyes  plump,  and  the  whole  fi.-h  stiff, 
they  are  good;  if,  on  the  contrary,  the  gills 
are  pale,  the  eyes  sunk,  and  the  ti.sh  flabby, 
they  are  stale.  The  greatest  care  should 
Ix'  taken  that  the  fish  is  properlv  clean-Jtd 
Ix-fore  Ix-iiig  dressed,  but  not  washed  be- 
yond what  is  absolutely  neces>arv  for  clean- 
ing, as  by  perpetual  watering,  the  flavour 
is  diminished.  When  clean,  if  the  fish  is 
to  be  boiled,  some  salt,  and  a  little  vinegar 
should  be  put  into  the  water,  to  give  it 
firmness.  Care  should  lie  taken  to  ln.il  the 
fish  well,  but  not  to  let  it  break.  Cod, 
whiting,  and  haddock  are  much  Ix-tter  fur 
little  salted,  and  kept  fur  a  day. 

There  is  "!':en  a  muddy  smell  and  ta.-ie  at- 
tached to  iVesh-water  li.-h,  which  may  Ixj 
got  rid  of  I iy  soaking  it,  after  it  has  been 
thoroughly  cleaned  in  strong  salt  and  wa- 
ter; or,  if  the  fish  is  not  too  lai\'e,  scald  it 
in  the  same;  then  dry,  and  die-:,  it. 

<  'are  should  l<e  taken  that  the  li.-h  is  put  into 
cold  nater,  anil  allowed  to  do  \er\  gently, 
otherwise  the  outside  will  break  before  the 
hi.-ide  is  done. 

( 'i  imp  lirh  must  be  put  into  Ixtilii 
and  as  soon   as    it  boils  up,  a    little   cold 
water  should  Ix.1  put  in,  to  check  lhe<xr<-s- 
si\e  heat,  and  simmer  il  for  a  few  minute!. 

If  the  fish  is  not  taken  out  of  (In1  water 
the  instant  it  is  done,  it  will  become  wixil- 
Iv;  to  ascertain  when  it  is  midy,  the  fish 
plate  on  which  it  is  drtwed  may  Ixj  drawn 
up,  and  if  s'lilicientiv  done,  it  will  leau-  the 
bone.  To  keep  hot  .  ajid  to 

prevent    it   from    losing    its  color,    the    full 
plate  should  be  plan  over  the 

lish-kettle,  and  a  clean  cloth  put  over  the  fish. 

Small  fish  may  be  either  nicely  fried 
plain,  or  done  over  with  egg  and  bread 
crumbs,  and  tlien  fried.  I'pon  the  di-n  in 
which  the  fish  ie  to  be  served,  should  be 


FI  S 


74 


FIS 


placwl  a  folded  damask  napkin,  and  upon 
this  put  the  fish,  with  the  liver  and  roe; 
then  garnish  tl»e  dish  with  horse-radish, 
parsley,  and  leinon.  Fish  is  a  dish  which 
is  almost  more  attended  to  titan  any  other. 

To  fry  or  broil  fish  properly,  after  it 
is  well  cleaned  and  washed,  it  should  be 
wrapped  in  a  nice  soft  cloth,  and  when 
perfectly  dry,  wetted  with  egg,  and  sprink- 
led all  over  with  very  fine  bread  crumbs;  it 
will  look  still  better  to  be  done  over  with 
egg  and  crumbs  a  second  time.  Then  hav- 
ing on  the  fire  a  thick-bottomed  frying-pan, 
with  plenty  of  lard  or  dripping,  boiling  hot ; 
put  the  fish  into  it,  and  let  it  fry  tolerably 
quick  till  it  is  done,  and  of  a  nice  brown 
yellow.  If  it  is  done  before  it  has  obtained 
a  nice  brown  color,  the  pan  should  be  drawn 
to  the  side  of  the  fire,  the  fish  carefully 
taken  up,  and  placed  either  upon  a  sieve 
turned  upwards,  or  on  the  under  side  of 
a  dish,  and  placed  before  the  fire  to  drain, 
and  finish  browning;  if  wanted  particularly 
nice,  a  sheet  of  cap  paper  must  be  put  to 
receive  the  fish.  I-'ish  fried  in  oil  obtains  a 
much  finer  color  than  when  done  in  lard  or 
dripping.  Butter  should  never  be  used,  as 
it  gives  a  bad  color.  Garnish  your  dish 
with  a  fringe  of  curled  raw  parsley,  or  with 
fried  parsley. 

When  fish  is  to  be  broQed,  it  must  be 
seasoned,  floured,  and  done  on  a  very  clean 
gridiron;  which,  when  hot,  should  be  rub- 
bed over  with  suet,  to  hinder  the  fish  from 
sticking.  It  should  be  broiled  over  a  very 
clear  fire,  to  prevent  its  tasting  sjnoky,  and 
great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  scorch  it. 

FISH.     This   department  of  the   busi- 
ness of  the  kitchen  requires  considerable  ex- 
perience, and  depends  more  upon  practice 
than  any  other.     A  very  few  moments,  more  j 
or  less,  will  thoroughly  spall  fish ;  which,  to 
be  eaten  in    perfection,  must  never  be  put  j 
on  the  table  till  the  soup  is  taken  off. 

So  many  circumstances  operate  on  this 
occasion,  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
write  general  rules. 

There  are  decidedly  different  opinions, 
whether  (Lsh  should  be  put  into  cold,  tepid, 
or  boiling  water. 

Fish  must  by  no  means  be  allowed  to  re- 
main in  the  water  after  it  is  boiled ;  if 
therefore  it  should  be  ready  before  it  can  be 
gent  to  table,  it  must  be  dished,  the  cover 
put  on,  and  a  cloth  put  over  it.  The  dish 
is  then  to  be  set  across  the  fish-kettle. 

Fish  should  be  fried  over  a  clear  quick 
fire  ;  and  with  dripping,  or  hog's  lard  in 
preference  to  butler.  The  pan  should  be 
deep;  and  to  ascertain  that  it  is  clean,  a 
little  fat  is  first  fried  in  it,  poured  out,  and 
the  pan  wiped  with  a  clean  cloth;  as  much  , 
dripping  or  lard  is  then  put  in  as  will  en- 


tirely cover  the  fish.  When  it  is  boiling 
hot,  and  begins  to  smoke,  the  fish  is  put  in ; 
if  small,  they  may  be  turned  in  three  or  four 
minutes,  by  sticking  in  a  fork  near  the  head 
with  one  hand,  and  with  the  other  support- 
ing die  tail  with  a  fish-slice.  When  they 
arc  done,  they  should  be  laid  before  the 
fire  upon  an  old  soft  towel,  and  turned  now 
and  then  till  they  are  dry  upon  both  sides ; 
or  they  may  be  put  upon  a  large  sieve, 
turned  upwards,  and  which  is  kept  for  the 
purpose,  or  put  on  the  under  side  of  a  dish. 

The  fire  for  broiling  fish  must  be  very 
clear,  and  the  gridiron  perfectly  clean, 
which,  when  hot,  should  be  rubbed  with  a 
bit  of  suet.  The  fish,  while  broiling,  must 
be  often  turned. 

Several  respectable  fishmongers  and  ex- 
perienced cooks  have  assured  the  editor, 
that  they  are  often  in  danger  of  losing  dieir 
credit  by  fish  too  fresh,  and  especially  tur- 
bot  ami  cod,  which,  like  meat,  require  a 
certain  time  before  they  are  in  the  best  con- 
dition to  be  dressed.  They  recommend 
them  to  be  put  into  cold  water,  salted  in 
proportion  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
salt  to  a  gallon  of  water.  Sea-water  is 
best  to  boil  sea-fish  in.  It  not  only  saves  the 
expense  of  salt,  but  the  flavor  is  better.  Let 
them  boil  slowly  till  done;  the  sign  of  which 
is,  that  the  skin  of  the  fish  rises  up,  and 
tin-  e\es  turn  white. 

It  is  die  business  of  the  fishmonger  to 
clean  them,  &c.  but  the  careful  cook  will 
always  wash  them  again. 

(iiunish  with  slices  of  lemon,  finely  scrap- 
ed horseradish,  fried  oysters,  smelts,  whit- 
iiiljs  or  strips  of  soles. 

The  liver,  roe,  and  chitterlings  should  be 
placed  so  that  the  carver  may  observe  them, 
and  invite  the  guest  to  partake  of  them. 

Fish,  like  meat,  requires  more  cooking 
in  cold  than  in  warm  weather.  If  it  be- 
comes FROZEN,  it  must  be  thawed  by  the 
means  we  have  directed  for  meat. 

Fish  are  plenty  and  good,  and  in  great 
variety,  in  all  tlie  towns  and  cities  on  the 
extensive  coast  of  the  United  States.  Some 
of  the  interior  towns  are  also  supplied  with 
fish  peculiar  to  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  this 
country. 

All  "kinds  of  fish  are  best  sometime  before 
they  begin  to  spawn ;  and  are  unfit  for  food 
for  sometime  after  they  have  spawned. 

Fish,  like  animals,  are  fittest  for  the  ta- 
ble when  they  are  just  full  grown ;  and  what 
has  been  said  i-especting  vegetables,  applies 
equally  well  to  fish. 

The  most  convenient  utensil  to  boil  fish 
in,  is  a  turbot-kettle.  This  should  be 
twenty-four  inches  long,  twenty-two  wide, 
and  nine  deep.  It  is  an  excellent  Tessel  to 
boil  a  ham  in,  &c.  &c. 

N.  B.— The  liver  of  the  fish  pounded  and 


FIS 


75 


FLE 


mixed  with  batter,  with  a  little  lemon-juice, 
&c.  is  an  elegant  and  inoffensive  relish  to 
fish.  Mushroom  sauce  extempore  or  tile 
soup  of  mock  turtle,  will  make  an  excellent 
fish  gauce. 

For  liquids,  you  have  meat  gravy,  lemon- 
juice,  sirup  of  lemons,  essence  of  anehovy, 
the  various  vegetable  essences,  uiuslirixmi 
catchup,  and  the  whites  and  yolks  of  eggs, 
win.  -,  and  the  essence  of  spices. 

I'lSH,  NBW  METHOD  OF  DRESSING. 
Take  any  sort  of  fish  you  think  prujxir,  l>e- 
ing  very  careful  that  it  is  (juitc  fresh;  clean 
it  Thoroughly,  dry,  and  season  it  to  your 
taste;  then  put  it  (without  any  moisture), 
into  a  [Ktn,  which  may  be  closely  covered, 
with  the  exception  of  a  small  hole,  to  allow 
uioii.  1'ut  it  into  an  oven  as  soon 
as  the  bread  is  drawn,  and  let  it  stand  until 
the  whole  is  so  completely  cliss. 

BJ  are  not  perceptible.  When  cold, 
this  makes  a  very  transparent,  well-flavored 
jelly. 

F I S 1 1  < '( ).\  s«  >.M  M  E.  Take  carp,  tench, 

I--,  pike,  and  other  fre.-h-watcr  lish 

of  the  same  kind;  clean  them  well,  and  cut 

them  into  pieces,  as  near  of  a  size  as  may 

be;  lay  them  in  a  stewpan,  on  a  la\rr  of 

as  soon  as  they 

lieu'in  d>  sweat,  put  in  a  bit  of  butter,  and 
leave  tlicm  lor  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  mois- 
ten them  with  lish  broth,  and  let  them  boil 
gently  for  an  hour;  keep  the  pan  closely 
.  this  will  afford  a  very  nourishing 
broth. 

FISH  KETCHUP.  Take  rather  more 
:<hit  of  vinegar,  three  pints  of  red 
Port,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  pepper,  pound- 
ed very  fine,  plenty  of  shallots  and  Imise- 
radi.-h,  the  IMI-I  of  hall"  a  lemon,  and  two  or 
three  bay-leaves,  and  a  pound  of  anchovies; 
Jet  the  whole  Imil  together  until  the  ancho- 
vies are  dissolved,  then  strain,  and  when 
cold,  put  it  into  bottles.  Two  or  three 
FjyxHifuls  are  sufficient  lor  a  jyjund  of 

batter. 


FISH  FOiUT.MF.AT.     Take  two  oun- 
ces of  either  turUit.  .  siirim|k<, 
-;    free  from  ski.i,  put   it  in  a  mor- 
tar  with   two  minces    of    I',    !i    butler,    one 
.iiini-e  of  bread-crumbs,  the  volk  of 
Imiled  hard,  and  a    little    e>.-hal<.;. 
Inou-peel,  and   parslev,    min.-ed    very    line; 
then  jKiiind  it  well  till  it  is  thoroughly  mixed 
and  quite  smooth;  season  it  with  ~.i\i  and 
Cayenne   to  your  taste  ;    break    in    the   volk 

IM  white  of  one  egg,  rob  it  well  toother, 

and  it  is  readv  lor  use.  Ovsfers  parboiled 
Uiid  minced  line,  and  an  anchovy,  may  Ix; 
added. 


PISH  GRAVY.     (1)     Cut  two  or  three 

little  lull  of  any  kind  into  small  pieces;  put 
them  into  a  saucepan,  with  rather  more 
water  than  will  cover  them,  a  bit  of  toasted 
bread,  a  blade  of  mace,  some  lemon-prel, 
whole  jM-pper,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs; 
let  it  simmer  gently  till  ii  is  rich  and  good; 
brown  a  little  bit  of  Imtter  in  a  stew  pan, 
and  when  it  is  browned,  strain  the  uravy  in- 
to it,  and  let  it  boil  for  a  few  minutes. 

FISH  (Ill.VVV.  (2)  Put  some  slices 
of  onion  into  a  .-tevtpan,  and  set  them  on 
the  lire;  when  they  an-  completely  dissolved, 
add  a  piece  of  butter,  and  some  small  lish, 
or  pieces  of  carp,  tench,  perch,  or  any  other 
you  linil  convenient.  As  soon  as  they  begin 
to  dissolve,  and  give  out  their  moisture,  put 
a  ylas.-|iil  of  root  broth  to  them,  and  boil 
them  for  half  an  hour;  then  add  a  glass  of 
white  wine,  and  a  little  lemon-juice,  and 
boil  it  another  half  hour,  wlien  it  may  be 
pressed  through  a  sieve,  with  great  force. 

FISH  RECHAUFFE.  (1)  After  pike, 
cod,  skate,  tin  I  .1,  soli>.  or  any  other  white 
fish  has  Ix^en  dressed,  pick  it  from  the  bones 
into  small  bits  ;  add  to  a  pound  of  fish,  or 
in  the  same  proportion,  half  a  pint  of  good 
cream,  one  table-spoonful  of  mustard,  the 
same  of  anchovy  essence,  the  same  of  ketch- 
up, and  of  Harvey  sauce,  a  little  flour,  some 
salt,  pepper,  and  butter;  make  it  all  hot  in 
the  xiuce|xui,  then  put  it  into  the  dish  in 
which  it  is  to  be  served  up,  strew  crumbs 
of  bread  over  it,  and  baste  it  with  butter  till 
it  is  a  little  moist,  then  brown  it  with  a 
salamander,  or  in  a  Dutch  oven.  A  wall 
ot  ma.-hed  potatoes  roiuld  the  dish  is  an  im- 
provement. 

FISH  RECHAUFFE.  (2)  Pick  from 
the  bone  in  large  flakes  about  two  pounds 
of  cold  salmon,  codfish,  or  soles;  melt  a 
quarter  of  a  |>ound  of  butter  in  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  with  a  little  flour  and  salt;  add  the 
fish  and  heat  it  thoroughly. 

FISH  SAUCE.     See  Sauce*. 


FI.FMISH  WAFERS.  Put  into  a 
deep  pan  half  a  pound  of  flour;  strain  and 
mix  wi:ii  it  half  a  pint  of  warmed  milk, and 
two  talile-s|xjonful.-  of  fresh  yca.-t;  work  tile 
!  paste  till  it  l>e  soft  and  smooth,  and  pla<  <•  it 
in  a  stove,  (>r  eio.-e  to  the  lire,  to  rise;  then 
add  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  half  a 
|x>nnd  of  freoli  butter  Ix-aten  to  a  cream, 
and  a  lump  of  sugar  which  has  Ui-n  niblied 
upon  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  then  pounded; 
last  of  all,  IxMt  in  lightly  the-  well-whisked 
whites  of  the  eggs;  again  place  the  •><•.<  in 
a  warm  |il. ire,  and  ii  nil!  i  !-••  I 

double  its  bulk.     Heat  and  rub  (lie  iron*, 


FLU 


76 


FOR 


which  should  be  square,  with  a  little  butter ; 
fill  one  side  with  the  mixture,  and  close 
them  ;  when  one  side  is  done  turn  the  oth- 
er, and  when  of  a  fine  color,  take  out  the 
wafers ;  put  them  upon  a  plate,  and  whilst 
hot,  sift  over  this  quantity  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  grated  loaf  sugar. 

FLIP.  To  make  a  quart  of  flip:— Put 
the  ale  on  the  fire  to  warm,  and  beat  up 
three  or  four  eggs,  with  four  ounces  of  moist 
sugar,  a  tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg  or 
ginger,  and  a  quartern  of  good  old  ruin  or 
brandy.  When  the  ale  nearly  boils  put  it 
into  one  pitcher,  and  the  rum,  eggs,  &c.  in- 
to another ;  turn  it  from  one  to  another  till 
it  is  a»  smooth  as  cream.  This  is  called  a 
Yard  of  Flannel. 

FLOATING  ISLAND.  Boil,  with  a 
pint  of  milk,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and  half  the 
peel  of  a  lemon;  when  almost  cold,  strain  it, 
and  mix  with  it  the  beaten  white  of  one,  and 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs ;  stir  itover  die  fire  till 
thick,  pour  it  into  a  dish,  and  stir  it  now 
and  then  till  cold.  Whisk  the  whites  of 
two  eggs,  and  half  a  pint  of  Guava,  quince, 
or  red  currant  jelly,  till  it  be  a  very  stiff". 

FLOUNDERS  BOILED.  (1)  Put  on  a 
stewpan  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water 
to  cover  the  flounders  which  are  to  be  dres- 
sed ;  put  in  some  vinegar  and  horse-radish ; 
when  the  water  boils  put  in  the  fish,  having 
lieen  first  well  cleaned,  and  their  fins  cut  off; 
they  must  not  boil  too  fast  for  fear  they  should 
break;  when  they  are  sufficiently  done,  lay 
them  on  a  fish  plate,  the  tails  in  the  middle. 
Serve  them  with  parsley  and  butter. 

FLOUNDERS  BOILED.  (2)  Wash  and 
clean  them  well,  cut  the  black  side  of  them 
the  same  as  you  do  turbot,  then  put  them  in- 
to a  (i.-li-kettle,  with  plenty  of  cold  water 
and  a  handful  of  salt ;  when  they  come  to  a 
boil,  skim  them  clean,  and  let  them  stand 
by  the  side-of  die  fire  for  five  minutes,  and 
diey  are  ready.  Obs. — Eaten  with  plain 
melted  butter  and  a  little  salt,  you  have  the 
sweet  delicate  flavor  of  die  flounder,  which 
is  overpowered  by  any  sauce. 

FLOUNDERS  OR  PLAICE,  FRIED  OR 
BOILED.  Flounders  are  perhaps  the  most 
(iiiiirult  fish  to  fry  very  nicely.  (.'Iran  them 
well,  flour  them,  and  wi|«  them  widi  a  dry 
cloth  to  absorb  all  die  water  from  diem; 
flour  or  egg  and  bread-crumb  them. 

FLUMMERY.     Steep  three  large  hand- 

fuls  of  very  small  white  oatmeal  4  day  and 
night  in  cold  water;  then  pour  it  oft'  clear; 
then  add  as  much  more  water,  and  let  h 
stand  anodier  dav  and  a  night.  Then 


strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  boil 
it  till  it  is  of  the  conMstence  of  hasty  pud- 
ding, keeping  it  well  stirred  all  die  time  it 
is  boiling.  When  first  strained,  put  to  it 
one  large  s|x»niful  of  white  sugar,  and  two 
of  orange-flower  water.  Pour  it  into  shal- 
low dishes,  and  scrxe  to  eat  with  wine,  ci- 
der, milk  or  ccpam,  and  sugar. 

FLUMMERY    DUTCH.       Boil    very 

irenlly  for  half  an  hour,  two  ounces  of  isin- 
;:!a.-.-  in  three  half  pints  of  water;  add  a  pint 
of  white  wine,  the  juice  of  three  lemons  and 
the  thin  rind  of  one,  and  nib  a  few  lumps 
of  sugar  on  another  to  obtain  the  essence, 
and  with  them  add  as  much  more  sugar  as 
will  make  it  sufficiently  sweot ;  and  having 
beaten  up  the  yolks  of  se\en  eggs,  give  diem 
and  the  above,  when  mixed,  one  scald;  stir 
all  the  time,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  ba- 
sin; stir  it  till  it  is  half  cold;  then  let  it 
settle,  and  put  it  into  a  melon  shape. 

FLUMMERY  FRENCH.  Beat  an 
ounce  of  isinglass  line,  put  it  into  a  quart  of 
cream,  and  boil  it  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  keeping  it  stirring  all  the  time.  Then 
take  it  off,  sweeten  it  « ith  tine  powder  su- 
gar, put  in  a  s|Mxinfiil  of  rose  and  another 
of  orange-dower  water,  strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  and  stir  it  till  half  cold.  Put  it  into 
a  mould  or  basin,  and  when  cold,  turn  it  in- 
to a  dish,  and  garnish  with  currant  jelly. 

FONDUS.  Put  some  grated  cheese  into 
a  basin,  with  pepper  and  a  little  melted  liut- 
ter,  and  the  yolks  of  eggs;  stir  them  togeth- 
er; whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  firm 
froth,  and  add  them,  a  little  at  a  time,  to 
the  cheese,  stirring  lightly  with  a  wooden 
spoon;  half  till  as  many  paper  OUtt 
can,  and  bake  them,  like  biscuits,  in  a 
|  moderate  oven.  Serve  them  as  quickly  as 
possible  after  they  are  done. 

FORCEMEAT  STUFFING.  Force- 
meat is  now  considered  an  indispensable 
accompaniment  to  most  made  dishes,  and 
when  composed  \\illi  good  taste,  gives  ad- 
ditional spirit  and  relish  to  even  that  "  sove- 
!  reign  of  savouriness,"  turtle  soup. 

It  is  also  sent  up  in  patties,  and  for  stuf- 
fing of  veal,  game,  pnultn 

The  ingredients  should  t>e  so  proportion- 
ed, that  no  one  flavor  pred in 

To  give  the  same  stuffing  for  veal,  hare, 
&c.  argues  a  poverty  of  inu-ntinn;  with  a 
little  contrivance,  jou  may  make  as  great 
a  variety  as  you  have  dishes. 

The  poignancy  of  forcemeat  should  be 
proportioned  to  the  savonriness  of  the  \  iandri, 
to  which  it  is  intended  to  give  OS  additional 
»est.  Some  dishes  require  a  very  delicate- 
ly flavored  forcemeat,  for  others,  it  must 


FOR 


77 


FOW 


be  full  and  high  seasoned.  What  would  U- 
piquantt  in  a  turkey,  would  be  insipid  willi 
turtle. 

•  ..pie  have  an  acquired  and  pecu- 
liar lasic  in  stiillin^s,  fee.  anil  what  exactly 
pleaaes  one,  M-ldoiu  is  precisely  what  an- 
other considers  lln-  most  agreeable. 

Custom  is  all  in  matters  of  ta.-tc:  it  i-  not 
that  OIK-  person  is  naturally  fond  of  this  or 
that,  and  another  naturally  averse  to  it;  Im! 
tluit  one  is  n.-ed  to  it,  and "another  is  not. 

The  consistency  of  forcemeats  is  rather  a 
difficult  thin:;  to  manage  ;  they  an:  almost 
always  either  too  liylit  or  t'H>  heavy. 

Take  care  to  |x>uud  it  till  perfectly  smooth, 
and  that  all  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly 
incor|x>raled. 

Forcemeat-halls  must  not  lie  larger  than 
a  small  nuiiii.-^.  If  they  arc  for  brown 
sane:',  llour  and  fry  them;  if  lor  while,  put 
them  into  l»>iling  water,  anil  !><>il  (hem  for 
three  mimiii-:  the  latter  are  In  far  the  must 
delicate. 

If  not  of  sufficient  stillness,  it  falls  to 
pieces,  and  makes  soup,  &c.  grouty  and 
very  unsightly. 

Swi  •cfhieads  and  tongues  are  the  favorite 
material-  lor  f.nemeat.  Forcemeat  should 
be  made  sufficiently  consistent  to  cut  with  a 
knife,  Ixit  not  dry  or  heavy.  .No  one  flavor 
should  predominate  tjreatly  ;  according  to 
what  it  is  wanted  for,  a  selection  ma\  lx- 
made  from  the  following  list,  licing  careful 
to  use  the  least  of  those  arlicics  which  are 
the  -nost  pungent : 

Coli  I  fox*  I,  or  veal.  scraped  ham,  fat  Iw- 
con,  beef  suet,  crumbs  of  bread,  parsley, 
while  pcp|irr,  salt,  nutmeg,  yo Iks  and  whites 
of  eggs,  we'll  beaten,  to  hind  I'M  •  mixture. 

The    f.irccin.Mi    'nay     be    nude    with    any 

of  these  articles  without  any  striking  llavor; 

therefore  any  of  the  following  different  ingre- 

-.•  of  to  vary  llie  taste. 

Oysters, anchovies,  tarragon,  savory,  |x-n- 
.  knotted-ntaijorain,    thyme,    basil, 
yolks  of  h.inl  e 

Jamaica  |»'ppcr  in  line  puwiler,  or 

two  or   llllee   clo\e>. 

To   force  or  slnll  turkeys,  geese,  ducks, 
under  the  heads  of  the  ditleivnt 
ways  •  i  .:n  --ing  turkeys,  geese,  &c. 

Fok<  T.MKAT.  Take  an  equal  quantity 
of  lean  veal  scraped,  and  beef  met  shred; 

U-at  them  in  a  niarbl.-  mortar;  add  pep|x-r, 
Kilt,  clovui,  |xiunded  lemon-peel,  and  imtme- 
l*u-sley  and  !.w<t-t  h'-ili.-.  choppi-d 
line,  a  linle  shallot  and  \onii_-  onion,  a  lew 
brcail-ermnbs  grated  line,  and  yolk  of  e^'i; 
milticicnt  to  work  it  li^ht ;  roll  this  into 
lulls-  wilii  a  little  llour;  if  tor  white  sauce, 
boil  them  ;  if  for  brow  n  s:im -c.  fry  them. 

FOR(  i:\ll-.Vr    HAI.I.S    FOR   FISH 
7* 


SOUPS,    OR   FISH    STEWED.     Beat  th* 

llesh  and  soft  pails  of  a  middling  pi/.ed  lob- 
ster, half  an  anchovy,  a  laii;e  piece  oflniil- 
ed  celery,  the  yolk  of  a  hard  ej;g,  a  little 
Cayenne,  mace,  salt,  and  white  pepper, 
with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs, 
one  spoonful  of  oyster  liquor,  two  ounces  of 
butter  warmed,  two  irus  ln-aten  fora  long 
time;  make  into  l«ills,  and  fry  them  of  a 
nice  brown  color  in  butter. 

FORCEMEAT-BALLS  FOR  TURTLE, 
!Ui>i  *  TURTLE,  OR  MADE  DISHES. 

Pound  some  veal  in  a  marble  mortar;  rub 
it  through  a  sie\e  with  as  much  of  the  udder 
4  have  veal,  or  about  a  third  of  the 
quantity  of  butler:  put  some  bread-crumbs 
into  a  stew  pan,  moisien  them  with  milk, 
add  a  little  chop|>ed  pirslev  and  eschalot, 

i  rub  them  well  together  in  a  mortar  till  they 
form  a  smooth  paste;  put  it  throiujh  a  sieve, 

i  and,  when  cold,  |xmiid,  and  mix  all  I 
ei .  u  nil  th'-  \olks  of  tlin-e  ejigs  boiled  hard; 
season  it  with  salt,  |>cp|/er,  and  curry  pow- 
der, or  Cayenne;  add  to  it  the  yolk.-  of  two 
rub  it  well  together,  ar.il  make 
small  balls:  ten  minutes  before  your  soup  is 
ready,  put  them  in. 

FOWLS.  When  a  cock  is  young,  his 
spurs  are  short ;  take  care  that  you  are  not 

deceived  by  their  having  been  cut  or  pared, 
,1  trick  that  is  oftcM  practised.  If  fresh 
their  vent  will  !*•  close  and  dark.  Hens 
are  I >cst,  just  liefore  they  la-gin  to  lay,  and 
yel  are  full  i,f  e^ ;  if  they  are  old,  their 
coiulis  and  Iru's  are  nni^h. 

All  [xMiltry  should  Ixj  very  carefully  pick- 
ed, ev.-i\  pli.^  'i "i!..M-d,  ami  the  hair  nicely 
singed  with  pa|)er. 

>k  should  he  careful  in  drawing 
|H)',iltry  of  all  .-«i>-.  not  I •>  break  the  gait- 
bag,  for  no  wa>hini;  will  take  oil'  the  bitter 
where  it  has  touched. 

If  for  roasting,  Mack-legged  fowls  are 
the  in  .-t  moist.  A  uiK'd-Mied  fowl  will 
take  from  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  an 
hour  in  roaMin^'.  a  middling-sized  one  about 
half  an  hour,  and  a  very  small  one,  or  chick- 
Tamo  low  Is  require  more  roust  in*;,  and 
|  are  lunger  in  heating  through  than  others. 
All  sorts  .should  !»•  continually  Ui.-ted,  that 
they  may  !»•  .-er\ed  with  a  froth,  and  apjiear 
of  a  fine  color.  The  lire  must  !»•  very  i|nick 
and  clear  before  any  low  Is  are  put  down. 
Serve  with  eg','  sance,  bread  >ai ,  or  gar- 
nished with  sausages  or  scalded  [xirsley. 

A  large  Uini-door  fowl,  well  huajf,  shniild 
In-  stulleil  in  the  crop  with  sal. -age-meat, 
and  served  with  gravy  in  the  dish,  and  with 
bread  sance. 

The  head  should  be  turned  under  the 
wiii^',  lik«  a  turkey. 


FO  W 


78 


FO  W 


For  boiling,  choose  those  that  are  not 
black-legged;  pick  them  carefully,  singe. 
wash,  and  truss  them.  Flour  them,  and 
put  them  in  boiling  water;  a  good-sized 
one  will  be  done  in  half  an  hour. 

Serve  with  parsley  and  butter;  oyster, 
lemon,  liver,  or  celery  sauce.  If  for  dinner, 
ham,  tongue,  or  bacon,  is  commonly  served 
with  them. 

Fowls  are  trussed  in  the  same  manner  as 
chickens.  (See  Chickens). 

Chickens  or  fowls  should  be  killed  at 
least  one  or  two  days  before  they  are  to  he 


Turkeys  (especially  large  ones)  should 
not  be  dressed  till  they  have  been  killed 
three  or  four  days  at  least,  in  cold  weather 
six  or  eight,  or  they  will  neither  look  white 
nor  eat  tender. 

Turkeys,  and  large  fowls,  should  have 
the  strings  or  sinews  of  the  thighs  drawn 
out. 

Truss  them  with  the  legs  outward,  they 
are  much  easier  carved. 

FOWL  A  LA  HOLANDAISE.    Make 

a  forcemeat  of  grated  bread,  half  its  quantity 
of  minced  suet,  an  onion,  or  a  few  oysters, 
and  some  boiled  parsley,  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  grated  lemon-peel,  and  an  egg 
lieaten  up  to  bind  it.  Bone  the  breast  of  a 
good-sized  young  fowl,  put  in  the  forcemeat, 
rover  the  fowl  with  a  piece  of  white  paper 
Iwttered,  and  roast  it  rather  more  than  half 
an  hour;  have  ready  a  thick  batter  made  of 
flour,  milk,  and  eggs,  take  off  the  paper,  and 
|xnir  some  of  the  batter  over  the  fowl;  as 
soon  as  it  becomes  dry  add  more,  and  do 
this  till  it  is  all  enisled  over,  and  of  a  nice 
brown  color  ;  serve  it  with  melted  butter  and 
lemon  pickle,  or  a  thickened  brown  gravy. 

FOWL  BOILED  WITH  RICE.  Stew 
a  fowl  in  some  well-skimmed  clear  mutton 
broth,  and  seasoned  with  onion,  mace,  pep- 
per, and  salt.  About  half  an  hour  before  it 
is  ready,  put  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  rice 
well  washed  and  soaked.  Simmer  till  ten- 
der ;  then  strain  it  from  the  broth,  and  put 
the  rice  on  a  sieve  before  tile  tire.  Keep  the 
fowl  hot,  lay  it  in  the  middle  of  a  dish,  and 
the  rice  round  it  without  the  broth.  The 
less  liquor  the  fowl  is  done  with,  the  better. 
Serve  with  gravy,  or  parsley  and  butter  for 


FOWL  BROILED.  Split  diem  down 
the  back,  well  salt  and  pepper  them;  then 
broil  them.  Serve  with  mushroom  sauce. 

FOWL  CAPILOTADE.  Take  the  re- 
mains of  a  ready  dressed  fowl,  and  put 
them  into  a  slewpan;  then  do  up  some 
parsley,  shallots,  and  four  mushrooms,  all 


slued  small,  in  a  little  letter;  as  soon  as  the 
latter  Incomes  liquid,  add  four  ladk-fuls  of 
espagnole,  and  two  of  consomme,  reduce, 
and  skim  it  ;  pour  it  on  your  fowl,  set  it  on 
the  fire  to  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
l>efore  you  send  it  to  table. 

FOWL  CURRY.     See  Curry. 

FOWLS     DRESSED    TO    DRESS 

AGAIN.  Cut  them  in  quarters,  beat  up  an 
egg  or  two  (according  to  die  quantity  you 
dress)  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  pep- 
per and  salt,  some  parsley  minced  fine,  and 
a  few  crumbs  of  bread;  mix  these  well  to- 
gether, and  cover  the  fowl,  &c.  with  this 
batter;  broil  them,  or  put  them  in  a  Dutch 
oven,  or  have  n-ady  some  dripping  hot  in  a 
pan,  in  which  fry  them  a  light  brown  color; 
thicken  a  little  gravy  with  some  flour,  put 
a  large  spoonful  of  catchup  to  it,  lay  the 
fry  in  a  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  round  it. 
You  may  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon  and 
toasted  bread. 


Turkey,   Goose,  Duck,  Rabbit, 
Pigeon,  are  all  dressed  same  way. 

FOWL,  GAME,  OR  RABBIT  HASH- 
F.D.  Cut  them  into  joints,  put  the  trim- 
mings into  a  stewpan  with  a  quart  of 
the  broth  thev  were  boiled  in,  and  a  large 
onion  cut  in  tour;  let  it  boil  half  an  hour; 
strain  it  through  a  sieve:  then  put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  in  a  basin,  and  mix  it 
well  by  degrees  with  the  hot  broth;  set  it 
on  the  fire  to  Iwil  up,  then  strain  it  through  a 
fine  sieve:  wash  out  the  stewpan,  lay  the  poul- 
try in  it,  and  pour  the  gravy  on  it  (through 
a  sieve)  ;  set  it  by  tlie  side  of  the  fire  to 
simmer  very  gently  (it  must  not  Ixiil)  for 
fifteen  minutes;  live  minutes  before  you 
serve  it  up,  cut  the  stufliii<;  in  slices,  and 
put  it  in  to  warm,  then  take  it  out,  and  lay 
it  round  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and  put  the 
poultry  in  the  middle;  carefully  skim  the 
(at  off  the  gravy,  then  shake  it  round  well 
in  the  stewpan,  and  pour  it  to  the;  hash. 
N.  B.  —  You  may  garnish  the  disli  \\  ith  bread 
sippets  lightly  toasted. 

FOWL  HASHED.  Cut  a  cold  roasted 
fowl  into  pieces  as  for  a  fricassee,  |«it  the 
trimmings  into  a  saucepan  with  two  or  three 
shallots,  a  little  lemon-|>eel,  a  blade  ol'mace, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  and  a  pint 
of  stock;  simmer  it  for  half  an  hour,  strain 
it,  put  a  bit  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and 
when  melted,  dredge  in  as  much  flour  as  will 
dry  it  up,  stirring  it  all  the  time;  then  add 
the  gravy,  let  it  boil  a  minute,  and  put  in  the 
fowl,  also  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  a  dust  of 
sugar.  Before  serving,  squeeze  in  a  little 
lemon-juice. 


row 


79 


FRA 


FOWL     MINCED     WITH     VEAL. 

Mince  tin'  wliitc  part  of  a  cold  roaste.l  or 
Ixiiled  fowl;  put  it,  and  sonic  thin  slices  of 
veal,  into  a  saucepan,  also  some  white  stock, 
a  squeeze  of  a  lemon,  a  few  drops  of  shallot 
\  iue^ar.  a'lil  a  dust  of  sugar ;  siniiiier  it  for 
n  short  time,  and  serve  it  ii|xni  bread  sippets, 
with  tin-  slices  of  veal  laid  on  the  mince. 

FOWL  1TLLKI).  Skin  a  cold  chick- 
en,  foul,  or  turkey;  take  oft"  the  lillets  from 
the  hrea.-ts,  and  put  them  into  a  slew  pan 
with  tile  rest  of  the  white  meat  and  wings, 
side-lxines,  and  merry-thought,  with  a  pint 
of  broth,  a  larije  blade  of  mace  |xmnded,  an 
eschalot  minced  fine,  the  juice  of  half  a  lem- 
on, and  a  roll  of  tlie  peel,  some  salt,  and  a 
few  grains  of  cayenne;  thicken  it  with  flour 
and  butter,  and  let  it  simmer  for  luo  or 
three  minutes,  till  tiie meat  is  warm.  In  the 
meantime  score  the  eggs  and  rump,  powder 
them  uitli  |x-p[xT  and  salt,  broil  them  nicely 
lirown,  and  lay  them  on,  or  round  your  |xill<il 
chicken.  Three  table-spoonfuls  of  good 
rieam,  or  the  yolks  of  as  many  eggs,  \\ill  !»• 
a  great  improvement  to  it. 

FOWL  OK  RABBIT.  We  can  only 
recommend  this  method  of  dressing  when  the 
fire  if  not  good  enough  for  riKisting.  Pick 
and  truss  it  the  same  as  for  lx>ilin<;,  cut  it 
ojx'ii  down  the  back,  w  i]>e  tin-  inside  clean 
with  a  cloth,  season  it  with  a  little  pepper 
and  Kill,  have  a  clc;ir  fire,  and  set  the  grid- 
iron at  a  :;o<>d  distance  over  it,  fay  the 
chicken  on  with  the  inside  towards  the  fire 
(yon  may  e^i;  it  am)  strew  some  grated 
bread  over  it),  and  broil  it  till  it  is  a  line 
lirown:  Like  care  the  fleshy  siile  is  not  burn- 
ed. Liiy  it  on  a  hot  dish;  pickled  mush- 
nMims,  or  mushroom  sauce  thrown  over  it, 
or  |>arslev  and  butter,  or  melted  Uitter  fla- 
vored with  mushroom  ketchup,  (iarnishil 
witli  slices  of  lemon  ;  and  the  livei  and  giz- 
y.ard  slit  and  notched,  seasoned  with  |»-p|»-r 
and  sail,  and  broiled  nicely  brown,  with 
•ome  slices  of  lemon. 

FOWLS  WITH  KICK,  CALLED 
I'll  I  vi  F  .  1'ioil  :i  pint  of  rice  in  as  much 
Mater  as  will  cover  it,  with  black  |x-p|  er,  a 
few  blade*  of  mace,  and  half  a  do/en  clo\es, 
lied  up  in  a  bit  i.f  cloth;  VV!H-!I  the  i  ice  i- 
tender,  take  out  llie  spice;  stir  in  a  piece 
of  butter;  U>il  a  fowl  and  a  piece  of  bacon; 
lay  them  in  the  dish,  cover  (Item  wiih  tile 
i  !••••:  I. iv  round  ih"  dish,  and  ii|xm  (lie  rice, 
hard  e§gB,  cut  in  halv.>,  q-r.ti  lei>.  and 
lengthwavs,  witli  onion.-,  lirst  lxiili.il,  and 
then  li 

S     KO  AST  F.I!.       Well    pepper 

the    fowls    !  il    them  ; 

!i    llii-in 


up  when  nearly  done,  by  sprinkling  tliem 
over  with  flour  and  silt,  and  -lasting  them 
with  liullci .  When  done,  be  careful  in  tak- 
in-f  out  the  skewers.  Serve  them  with  very 
gixnl  clear  ifravy  in  the  dish,  and  bread  or 
<  in  a  boat. 

FOWL  ROASTED  WITH  CHEST- 
NUTS. Roast  some  cliestnuts,  very  care- 
fiilly,  so  that  they  may  not  be  burnt,  then 
lake  oil'  the  skins,  and  peel  them.  Take 
alxiut  a  dozen  of  them,  cut  them  small,  and 
bruise  them  in  a  mortar.  1'arlxiil  the  liver 
of  a  fowl ;  brui.se  it,  and  cut  about  a  quarter 
of  a  |xiiiiid  of  ham  or  bacon,  and  pound  it. 
Then  mix  them  all  together,  with  a  good 
quantity  of  chopped  parsley,  sweet  herbs, 
some  mace,  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg.  When 
these  are  are  all  well  mixed  togetlier,.  put  it 
into  your  fowl,  and  roast  it.  The  Ix'st  way 
of  doing  this  is  to  tie  the  neck,  and  hang  it 
up  I  iv  the  legs  to  roast,  witli  a  string,  and 
then  baste  it  with  butter.  For  sauce,  take 
the  rest  of  the  che.-tnnts,  peel  and  skin  them, 
put  them  into  some  good  gravy,  with  a  little 
white  wine;  and  thicken  it  with  a  piece  of 
butter  rolled  in  flour.  Then  place  your  fowl 
in  the  dish;  pour  in  the  sauce;  garnish  with 
lemon,  and  serve. 

FOWL  WITH  ITS   OWN  GRAVY. 

Truss  a  fowl  the  same  us  for  boiling,  lard  it 
ijiiite  through  witli  bacon,  ham,  and  pars- 
ley ;  put  it  in  a  pan  with  a  little  butter,  two 
or  three  slices  of  peeled  lemon,  a  bundle  of 
sweet  herbs,  three  cloves,  sliced  onions, 
carrot.-,  pepper,  salt,  a  little  stock,  and  a 
gla.-s  of  white  wine;  stew  them  gently  till 
they  are  done  ;  skim  and  strain  the  sauce, 
and  serve  il  with  the  fowl. 

FOWL,  WILD.  Tl»e  flavor  of  wild 
fowl  is  preserved  better  bv  not  stuffing  them ; 
put  into  each,  peppT,  salt,  and  a  bit  of  but- 
ter. Wild  fowl  do  not  require  so  much 
dressing  as  tame ;  tliey  should  be  done  of  a 
line  color,  and  nicely  frothed.  A  rich  brown 
niavy  sjionld  !«•  served  ill  the  dish,  and  when 
the  breast  is  cut  into  slices,  bcfiuv  it  is  taken 
from  the  Ixine,  it  will  lie  much  improved  by 
a  -i | nee/i-  of  lemon,  some  salt  and  pepper. 
ll'\ou  wi.-h  to  take  oil' the  fishy  smell  which 
tlie-e  birds  fiii|uently  have,  pm  an  onion, 
sail,  and  hot  water  into  the  dripping  pan, 
and  for  the  lii.-t  ten  minutes  haste  them  with 
tin.-;  then  remove  (lie  pan,  and  keep  cou- 
stantlv  basting  w  ith  U"ler. 

FRAISE.     See  (Mf*  ChiUerlingt. 

FKAVMl'ANF..  Take  a  -aiu  e|Kin,and 
put  into  il  live  spoonfuls  of  flour,  five  eggs,  a 
pint  of  milk,  in  ounce  of  Unier  and  a  litil.- 
.silt;  set  il  .  :<.  li.  •  ;'',e,  stirring  coa-tantly 


80 


FR1 


Until  it  lias  l«>ilcd  ten  minutes,  taking  great 
care  that  il  does  nut  burn;  then  |xjur  it  into 
a  basi.i.  and  let  it  cool.  Take  a  few  al- 
monds, (to  every  six  sweet  put  one  bitter), 
bruise  them,  and  some  macaroons,  and  when 
reduced  to  powder,  mix  them  with  a  little 
cris|>ed  orange-Hour  (also  in  powder),  and  a 
suiiieieiit  quantity  of  pq  wder-0ugar  to  BweeteH 
il :  add  these  to  the  above  preparation,  and 
stir  them  in  well  with  a  wooden  spoon.  If 
your  frangipane  be  too  thick,  add  anotlior 
etrg  or  two,  and  then  make  whatever  use  of 
il  yon  may  desire.  You  may,  if  you  think 
proper,  substitute  pistachios  for  the  sweet 
almonds,  in  which  case  a  little  spinach  es- 
sence must  IK-  added  to  color  it,  tile  maca- 
roons and  orange-flowers  omitted,  and  three 
bitter  almonds  only  used. 

FRE.\CH  BEANS.  Cut  off  the  stalk 
end  first,  and  then  turn  to  the  point  and 
strip  off  the  strings.  If  not  quite  fresh,  have 
a  bowl  of  spring-water,  with  a  little  salt 
dissolved  in  it,  standing  before  yon,  and  as 
the  beans  are  cleaned  and  stringed,  throw 
them  in.  When  all  are  done,  put  them  on 
the  fire  in  boiling  water,  with  some  sail  in 
it;  after  they  have  boiled  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes,  take  one  out  and  taste  it;  as  soon 
as  they  are  tender  take  them  up;  throw 
them  into  a  colander  or  sieve  to  drain.  To 
.Bend  up  the  beans  whole  is  much  the  l>e.-t 
method  when  they  are  thus  young,  and  their 
delicate  flavor  and  color  are  much  tetter 
preserved.  When  a  little  more  grown,  they 
must  Ix:  cut  across  in  two  after  stringing; 
and  for  common  tables  they  are  split,  and 
divided  across ;  cut  them  all  the  same  length ; 
but  those  who  are  nice  never  have  them  at 
such  a  growth  as  to  require  splitting.  When 
they  are  very  large  tliey  look  pretty  cut  into 
kr/enges. 

FRENCH  BEANS,  NASTURTIUMS, 

&-.(•.  \Vhen  yoii'i^,  and  most  other  small 
trrei-ii  vegetables,  may  be  pickled  the  same 
way  as  gherkins. 

FRENCH  BEANS  FOR  WINTER 

CSK.  (father  them  when  young,  and  on  a 
di'v  day,  put  a  layer  of  salt  into  a  jar,  and 
nf  alxmt  two  inches  thick  oflx-ans; 
do  this  till  the  jar  be  nearly  full ;  place  a 
small  plate  upon  the  top  of  them,  and  tie  a 
bladder  closely  over  the  jar;  keep  it  in  a 
cool  dry  place.  When  to  be  used,  snak 
them  a  night  in  col&Hvater,  and  change  it 
on  tin-in  repeatedly  in  die  course  of  the  day 
thev  are  to  lx>  dressed.  Cut  them,  and  put 
them  on  in  lx>iling  water. 

FRENCH     BEANS     TO     DRESS 

DR1KD.  Boil  lor  more  than  two  hours,  in 
two  quarts  of  water,  a  pound  of  the  seeds  or 


l>cans  of  scarlet  runners ;  fill  a  pint  basin 
with  onions  jx-clcd  or  sliced,  brown  them  in, 
a  saucepan,  with  rather  more  than  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  stir  them  con- 
stantly; strain  the  water  from  the  bonus, 
and  mix  them  with  the  onions;  add  a  tea- 
s|x>oiiful  of  pep|xr,  some  salt,  and  a  little 
uravy.  Let  them  stew  for  ten  minutes,  and 
stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  vinegar.  Serve  them  hot. 

FRENCH  SUPPER  DISH.     Pare  off 

the  crust,  and  cut  one  or  two  slices  of  bread 
into  bits  of  two  or  three  inches  square ;  fry 
them  in  butter;  put  them  upon  a  hot  dish, 
and  lay  upon  each  bit  some  warmed  preserve, 
or  stew  for  a  few  minutes,  in  sweet  wine 
and  a  little  sugar,  some  stoned  bloom  raisins, 
and  put  them  upon  and  round  the  toast. 
The  preserves  may  lx>  heated  by  placing  the 
jars  in  hot  water  by  the  side  of  the  fire. 

FRIARS'  CHICKEN.  Put  four  pounds 
of  a  knuckle  of  veal  into  four  quarts  of  wa- 
ter; boil  it  gently  tor  two  hours;  strain  it 
oft";  cut  three  chickens,  or  two  younsf  fowls 
into  joints ;  skin  them,  and  when  the  broth 
boils  put  them  in  ;  season  with  white  pepper 
and  salt;  let  them  boil  a  short  time,  and 
add  a  handful  of  parsley  chop|x-d  small ; 
when  the  chickens  are  boiled  tender,  have 
ready  six  or  seven  well-l«eaten  e 
them  quickly  into  the  broth  one  way,  imme- 
diately before  taking  it  olV  the  fire.  This 
broth  may  be  made  entirely  of  veal  instead 
of  chickens. 

FRICAN  DEI, LANS.  Mince  about  two 
pounds  of  tender  lean  beef,  and  tlmf-quar- 
tci'sofa  pound  of  fresh  suet,  then  pound  it 
till  it  be  as  smooth  as  a  paste,  and  earefiilly 
pi'-k  out  all  the  threads  and  sinews  ;  add  four 
woll-liealen  cij'js,  hall' a  pint  of  rich  croam, 
and  as  much  grated  and  sifter!  bread  as  will 
make  it  sufficiently  consistent  to  Ibrm  into 
rolls  resembling  corks,  and  season  it  with 
salt,  and  |x,-ppcr.  Hoi  I  the  corks  in  some 
good  st.ick,  or  in  boiling  water. 

FRICASSEE  i',R<)\\\.     Take  two  o* 

three  young  rabbits,  cut  them  in  pieces,  and 
stew  them  iu  uravy  made  of  l>eet',  some  whole 
pepper,  two  shallots,  one  or  two  anchovies, 
a  bit  of  horse-radish,  and  a  little  sweet  mar- 
joram jx)wdereri  small.  Stew  the  rabbits 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  take  them 
out  of  the  gravy,  strain  the  liquor,  fry  your 
rabbits  in  lard  or  butter;  add  a  glass  of 
claret;  you  may  fry  some  forcemeat  balls, 
made  with  the  livers  of  the  rabbits  parlxiilr-d, 
and  a  little  parsley  shred  small,  some  nutmeg 
trratcd,  pepj.er,  salt,  a  few  bread  crumbs, 
and  I  wo  Ixiltercd  i'i;;;s;  mix  these  all  to- 
gether, make  them  up  into  balls,  dip  them 


FRI 


81 


FRI 


in  the  yolk  of  egg,  roll  them  in  flour, 
then  fry  them,  and  garnish  your  dish  with 
them,  with  fried  parsley,  and  sliced  lemon. 

FRICASSEE  WHITE.  Cut  a  couple 
of  rabbits  into  pieces,  and  let  them  soak  in 
warm  water  to  cleanse  them  from  the  blood ; 
then  lay  them  in  a  cloth  to  dry;  put  them 
intn  a  .-tr\\  |>aii  with  milk  and  water,  and  let 
them  stew  till  they  are  tender,  and  then  take 
a  clean  pan,  and  put  into  it  half  a  pint  of 
cream.  ;enl  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter; 
stir  them  well  together  till  the  butler  is  melt- 
ed ;  Ix-  careful  to  keep  it  constantly  stirring, 
or  it  will  !*•  greasy;  put  in  the  rabbits,  take 
a  little  dried  mace,  a  little  jxunuied  nutmeg, 
and  a  few  mhraooBj  shake  them  together 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  put  it  to  the 
rabbit.-.  You  may  add  white  wine  if  you 

l-hoo-.-. 

FRIED  TOASTS.     Cut  the  crumb  of 

a  tw»[KMiny  loaf  into  round  or  oblong  pieces, 
nearly  an  inch  tliick,  and  soak  them  for  four 
or  live  hours  in  a  pint  of  cream,  mixed  with 
three  ueil-U-aien  e^ifs,  half  a  pint  of  white 
wine,  a  little  »iati  .1  nutmeg,  and  sweetened 
with  pounded  l,.:tl  -u^.ir.  Fry  them  in  but- 
ter, till  of  a  hi;ht  brown  color,  and  serve 
with  wine  and  sugar  sauce. 

FRITTERS.  (1)  Make  them  ofany  of 
the  batten  directed  li>r  pancakes,  by  dropping 
a  small  quantity  into  the  pan,  or  make  die 
plainer  .-cirt,  and  pit  |>ared  apples  sliced  and 
cored  in  the  baiter,  and  fry  some  of  it  with 
each  sli'e.  Currants  or  sliced  lemon,  as 
thin  as  |x  --il.|.\  uro  yery  nice. 

FR1TTF.RS.  (2)  Fritters  should  be  sent 
to  table  sej\ed  u|x)ii  a  folded  napkin  in  tlie 
di.-h.  Aiu  -MI  i. f  -\M  eimeat,  or  ripe  fruit, 
ma\  l>e  made  into  fritters. 

I    I!  I   I    I   E  R  S  ,    E.NGLISH-AND- 

FKF.N*  'II.     Take  i  marrow  pudding,  and 

when  nearly  cold,  cut  it  into  thin  slices,  and 

then  cut  them  :i<.;aln  into  pieces  two   inches 

iinee-quarters  of  an  inch  wide,  dip 

hatter,  and  fry  them  in  the  usual 

manner:    when  drained,  glaze  them  with  tine 

tin-in  \ery  hot.     The  batter 

lor  the  ab.i\r  Minns  i.-  made  as  follows: — 

i-it  and   a  half  of  water,  a  grain  of 

salt,  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  a 

:    when  it  U.i Is  stir  in  a  sufficient 

quantity  of  tlour  to  make  it  a  rather  linn 

I mtter.  keep  ii   stirring  three  minutes,  then 

pour  it  into  another  vessel. 

FWITERS  A  LA  DAUI'IIIM:. 
Take  a  [xmnd  of  brioche  paste,  and  roll  it 
out  as  thin  a*  possible,  to  the  form  of  a  lonif 
•quart-;  on  part  of  this  lay  small  quantities 


of  apricot  marmalade  at  intervals,  slightly 
wet  the  paste  round  each  piece  of  preserve, 
and  lay  over  the  plain  |>art  of  tlie  paste  so  as 
to  cover  the  other  completely,  press  it  down 
lightly  that  the  marmalade  may  not  eseajx- 
in  tlie  cooking,  and  cut  out  your  fritters 
with  a  circular  paste-cutter  of  two  inches  in 
diameter;  flour  them  a  little,  and  then  lay 
them  in  ratlier  a  hot  friture,  when  the  paste 
will  swell  them  into  little  balls ;  as  soon  as 
they  are  of  a  proper  color  take  them  out, 
drain  them  on  a  napkin,  sprinkle  them  with 
fine  sugar,  and  serve  them. 

FRITTERS  A  LA  COTE.  Soak  in 
brandy  some  leaves  and  the  young  and  ten- 
der shoots  of  the  vine,  dip  them  in  a  batter 
made  of  milk,  yolks  of  eggs,  and  flour,  fry 
them  in  boiling  oil,  sprinkle  them  with  su- 
gar. Elder  flowers  are  made  into  fritters  in 
the  same  manner. 

FRITTERS  AU  BLANC.  Mix  to- 
gether a  handful  of  rice-flour  and  some  milk, 
set  them  on  the  fire,  stirring  constantly,  add 
a  little  cream,  sugar,  lemon-peel,  and  orange- 
flowers;  when  it  has  become  of  a  proper 
consistence,  take  it  from  the  fire;  as  soon 
as  it  is  cold,  roll  it  into  balls  about  tlie  size 
of  a  nut,  dip  them  in  baiter  and  fry  them. 

FRITTERS  BLONDIX.  Put  some 
butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  is  melt- 
ed add  to  it  a  glass  of  milk,  and  a  pinch  of 
salt,  keep  it  on  tlie  fire  till  it  boil:- ;  then 
mix  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  flour  to  make 
it  into  a  consistent  paste,  which  will  not 
stick  to  the  fingers;  spread  it  on  a  table, 
roll  it  out  to  the  thickness  you  may  require, 
cut  it  in  round,  oval,  or  any  other  formed 
pieces  you  may  think  proper,  and  fry  them  of 
a  nice  color,  in  the  best  oil ;  sprinkle  sugar 
over,  and  serve  them. 

FRITTERS,  FRENCH,  OF  BRAN- 
DY FRUITS.  Take  a  dozen  apricots 
(or  oilier  fruits)  preserved  in  brandy,  drain, 
and  cut  them  in  half:  then  wrap  them  in  w a- 
I  fera  cut  round  and  previously  moisi,  ned,  dip 
them  in  the  same  kind  of  batter  as  that  used 
for  fritters  Engliah-and- French,  ami  fry 
them  ;  sprinkle  them  with  sugar,  and  serve. 

FRITTERS  EN  SURPRISE.  Take 
eight  middling-sized  apples,  pare,  and  leave 
on  the  stalks ;  cut  off  about  a  fourth  part  of 
the  stalk  end  of  each  apple,  and  scoop  out 
the  inside  of  each  piece,  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of 
cup  with  a  lid ;  put  them  to  soak  for  two  hours 
in  a  glass  of  brandy  with  a  little  lemon-peel 
and  cinnamon ;  at  the  end  of  that  time  take 
them  out,  draiq  and  fill  each  apple  uitll 
apricot  marmalade,  or  fr.mgi|i!iiie ;  mix  up 
a  little  fl.Mir  and  white  of  egg  to  cement  tho 


FRO 


82 


FRU 


tops  of  the  apples  to  the  other  parts;  dip 
them  in  batter  and  fry  them.  When  they 
are  of  a  proper  color,  glaze  and  serve  them. 

FRITTERS  MIGNON.  Put  two  good 
spoonfuls  of  flour  into  a  stewpan,  and  mix 
it  with  the  whites  and  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a 
liith-  salt,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  some  lemon- 
peel  grated,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  milk,  and 
half  a  tea-epoonful  of  cream ;  stir  it  over  a 
slow  fire,  and,  when  done  and  well  thicken- 
ed, spread  the  cream  upon  a  floured  dish, 
shake  Hour  over  it,  and,  when  cold,  cut  it 
into  bits  with  a  paste-cutter,  dip  each  bit 
into  a  paste  made  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
flour,  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  and  a  little  salt, 
mixed  with  two  eggs;  fry  live  fritters,  and 
serve,  glazed  with  sugar  and  a  salamander. 

FRITTERS,  ROYAL.  Put  a  quart  of 
ne\v  milk  into  a  saucepan,  and  as  soon  as  it 
begins  to  boil,  pour  in  a  pint  of  white  wine ; 
then  take  it  off,  and  let  it  stand  five  or  six 
minutes,  skim  off  the  curd,  and  put  it  into  a 
basin ;  l>eat  it  up  well  with  six  < 
season  it  with  nutmeg;  then  beat  it  with  a 
whisk,  and  add  tlour  sufficient  to  give  it  the 
pro|x.-r  consistence  of  batter.  Put  in  some 
sugar  and  fry  them  quick. 

FRITTERS,  SOUFFLES.  Make 
some  flour  and  beer  into  a  batter  tliat  will 
flow  a  little;  take  a  little  of  it  out  with  a 
spoon,  throw  it  into  a  frying-pan  with  boil- 
ing oil ;  the  moment  it  rises,  take  it  out, 
and  proceed  in  the  same  way  till  all  the  bat- 
ter is  used;  then  sprinkle  them  with  sjalt, 
and  serve. 

FROMAGE  CUIT.  Cut  half  a  pound 
of  <  'heshire  cheese  into  thin  bits,  and  pound 
it  in  a  mortar;  add  by  degrees  die  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  two,  and  the  white  of  one 
egg,  and  half  a  pint  of  cream ;  mix  it  well 
together  and  bake  it  for  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes. 

FROST  OR  ICING   FOR   CAKES. 

Iteat  till  very  light  the  whites  of  four  eggs, 
and  add  gradually  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
<if  double-refined  sugar,  pounded  and  sifted 
through  a  lawn  sieve;  mix  jn  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon;  beat  it  till  very  light  and 
white;  place  the  cake  before  the  fire,  pour 
over  it  the  icing,  and  smooth  over  the  top 
and  sides  with  the  back  of  a  spoon. 

FROTH  TO  PUT  ON  CREAM,  CUS- 
TARD, OR  TRIFLE.  Sweeten  half  a  pound 
of  the  pulp  of  damsons,  or  any  other  sort  of 
scalded  fruit;  put  to  it  the  whites  of  four 
eggs  beaten,  and  Ixsit  the  pulp  with  them 
till  it  will  stand  as  high  asS'ou  wish,  and 
being  put  on  the  cream,  &c,  with  a  spoon, 


it  will  take  any  form ;  it  should  be  rough, 
to  imitate  a  rock. 

FRUIT,  CANDIED.  (1)  It  must  first  be 
preserved,  then  dipped  in  warm  water,  dried 
with  a  cloth,  and  strewed  all  over  with  sift- 
ed sugar,  and  dried  in  a  stove  or  oven,  turn- 
ing as  occasion  requires. 

FRUIT,  CANDIED.  (2)  When  the 
fmit  is  preserved,  dry  it  in  a  stove  till  the 
sirup  is  quite  out,  dip  it  into  sirup  boiled  to 
randy  height,  and  dry  it  again.  All  dried 
and  candied  fruit  must  lie  kept  in  a  very 
dry  place. 

FRUIT  IN  JELLY.  Have  in  read  mess 
a  plain  mould,  either  long  or  round,  about 
three  inches  deep;  then  have  ready  some 
mould  jelly,  and  spread  it  at  the  Ixjltom 
of  the  mould,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick ;  let  it  be  cold ;  then  put  in  ripe  peach- 
es, grapes,  or  any  sort  of  ripe  fruit  you 
please,  preserved  fruit,  or  China  oranges 
cut  into  quarters,  or  whatever  sha|>e.  you 
choose;  put  in  a  little  warm  jelly,  and  let  it 
stand  till  it  is,  cold,  to  fasten  the  fruit  in  its 
place,  otherwise  it  will  rise  up;  then  fill  the 
mould  up  with  warm  jelly,  let  it  stand  till  it 
is  quite  cold,  then  turn  it  into  a  dish,  and 
garnish  it  according  to  your  own  taste. 

FRUIT,  PRESERVED,  REMARKS 
ON  USING.  Preserved  fruits  should  not  be 
baked  long;  those  that  have  l>een  preserved 
with  their  full  proportion  of  sugar,  require 
no  baking;  the  crust  should  be  baked  in  a 
tin  shape,  and  the  fruit  be  ^afterward.-  added; 
or  it  may  be  put  into  a  small  dish  or  tart- 
pans,  and  the  covers  be  baked  on  a  tin  cut 
out  according  to  your  taste. 

FRUIT,  TO  PREPARE   FOR    BRANDY. 

Take  the  proposed  quantity  of  fruit,  gather- 
ed before  they  are  perfectly  ripe ;  dry  them 
carefullv,  prick  and  put  them  into  cold  water ; 
when  all  in,  set  the  vessel  over  a  moderate 
fire,  keeping  the  water,  however,  constantly 
nearly  boiling,  until  die  fruit  will  give  to  the 
touch;  then  throw  them,  with  great  care, 
into  cold  water  again;  drain  away  this  wa- 
ter, and  add  fresh;  change  the  water  t uice 
more  within  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  after 
which,  drain  them  for  the  last  time,  and  |iut 
them  in  bottles;  if  any  of  the  fruit  is  the 
least  broken  or  bruised,  it  must  be  put  aside, 
as  it  would  spoil  the  rest.  In  the  mean- 
while, take  a  proper  quantity  of  sugar  (as  a 
pound  and  a  half  for  twenty-live  peache*)j 
clarify  and  boil  it  to  la  nappe;  measure, 
and  put  double  its  quantity  of  good  brandy; 
mix  and  jiour  them  into  a  glazed  pan;  let 
them  stand  awhile,  and  then  pour  the  mix- 
ture on  the  fruit. 


<;  \  M 


83 


GAM 


FRUIT  TO  PREPARE  FOR  CHIL- 
DREN. Put  apples  sliced,  or  plums,  cur- 
rum-,  iroonclierries,  tv,..  ;„,,, :,  stone  j;ir,  and 
sprinkle  ;i.-  Hindi  l.islxin  sugar  as  necessary 
among  them  ;  place  the  jar  on  a  hot  hearth, 
or  in  :i  s:iuce|>an  of  water,  and  let  it  remain 
till  the  fruit  is  perfectly  done.  Slices  of 
bread  or  riee  may  Ix^  stewed  witli  tlie  fruit, 
or  the  fruit  may  be  eaten  with  slices  of  dry 
bread,  or  with  rice,  plain  boiled. 


G. 


<  i  \  M  T.  In  choosing  venison,  the  fat  of 
that  which  is  good  is  thick ,  clear,  and  bright ; 
the  clift  part  smooth  and  close.  When  the 
veni-  ia  is  |x'ifecily  fresh,  it  is  hung  in  a  cool 
place,  ami  carefully  wiped  dry  every  day. 
When  extreme  tenderness  is  required  from 
long  keeping.  Ixit  without  its  having  a  high 
flavor,  it  is  well  rubbed  over  with  powdered 
charcoal. 

Tlie  haunch  is  the  prime  joint,  and  when 

.aired  to  be  roasted,  it  is  lirst  well 
washed  in  lukewarm  milk-and-water,  and 
then  made  i|iiile  dry  l>ef  >re  it  is  spitted.  It 
is  then  co\ered  with  a  slieet  of  well-buttered 
white  pajxT,  over  which  is  laiii 
paste  of  tloiir-and- water,  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick;  thin  is  again  covered  with 
buttered  white  |xi|x-r,  and  tied  on  with  pack- 
thread. A  substantial  fire  being  made,  the 
haunch  is  put  d.iwn,  and  constantly  basted 
with  freijh  beef  dripping,  till  nearly  done, 
when  the  IM.-IC  is  taken  oil",  the  meat  well 
basted  with  butter,  ami  lightly  dredged  with 
flour,  till  it  froths  anil  becomes  of  a  line  lijiht 
brown  color.  It  i>  signed  with  its  own  gra- 
vy in  the  dish,  if  there  be  enough  of  it;  also 
a  sauce  tureen  of  good  brown  gravy,  and 
one  of  currant  jelly  sauce  beat  up,  and  melt- 
ed with  a  little  I'ort  wine  and  sugar. 

\  :••  haunch  takes  about  four  hours  to 
roast. 

A  neck  and  shoulder,  when  roasted,  is 
managed  in  the  tame  wav  as  the  haunch, 
omitting  the  (Kiste;  but  it  is  more  frequently 
used  tin  soups,  pasties,  and  colloji-. 

-When  fresh,  the  body  is  stiff; 
ami  if  \"iin_',  the  claws  are  smooth  and 
sharp,  the  ears  tender  and  easily  torn. 
Hares  arc  kept  from  a  week  to  a  fortnight 
for  roasting;  but  for  soup,  they  cannot  have 
been  too  recently  killed. 

Rabbits  are  chosen  by  the  same  rules  as 

Wild  fowl,  in  general,  is  chosen  1>\  tlie 
same  rules  as  tame  poultry.  Tlie  binls 
should  In-  plump  and  fat,  and  hard  in  tlie 
vent.  If  the  skin  comes  o(V  wlien  ruldied 
hard  with  the  linger,  they  are  stale.  Old 
birds  improve  by  keeping  for  sometime; 


young  birds  are  best  if  dressed  soon;  and 
small  birds,  of  all  descriptions,  should  be 
immediately  dressed.  In  warm  -weather,  a 
stop|x-r  of  charcoal  should  be  put  into  the 
vent  of  all  game,  and  a  string  tied  tightly 
round  the  neck. 

To  roast  pheasants  and  partridge.-,  they 
are  picked,  cleaned,  and  nicely  singed;  a 
slit  is  made  in  the  back  part  of  tlie  neck,  and 
the  craw  taken  out,  leaving  on  the  head,  tlie 
feet  twisted  closely  to  the  body,  the  claws 
cut  off,  and  tlie  head  turned  under  the  wing. 
Both  sorts  are  roasted  by  the  directions  for 
roasting  a  turkey  or  a  fowl.  A  pheasant  is 
served  with  gravy  in  the  di«h ;  partridges 
with  a  gravy,  or  laid  upon  buttered  toast, 
and  melted  Uitter  poured  round  them.  Bread 
sauce  is  served  with  both.  A  pheasant  will 
require  nearly  an  hour  to  roast ;  partridges 
half  an  hour.  Guinea  and  pea-tow  I  arc 
roasted  in  the  same  way  as  pheasants. 

To  roast  black-cock,  follow  the  directions 
for   roast  ing   pheasants   and    partri 
will  require  an  hour,  and  is  served  with  gra- 
vy in  the  dish,  and  bread  sauce  in  a  sauce 
tureen. 

Moorfowl  are  roasted  in  the  same  manner, 
and  require  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  They 
may  be  served  upon  buttered  toast,  or  with 
ura\y  in  the  dish,  and  bread  sauce  in  a  sauce 
tureen. 

To  restore  tainted  game  or  poultry,  pick 
it  carefully,  clean,  and  wash  it,  then  put  into 
each  bird  a  little  newly-made  pounded  char- 
coal, tied  in  a  bit  of  muslin.  Before  sen  ing, 
take  out  the  bag,  which  will  have  a  most 
olVen.-.ive  smell,  while  tlie  bird  will  be  left 
(HTtectly  sweet. 

To  roast  u  ild  duck. — It  should  he  roasted 
by  a  ((nick  lire,  well  basted  with  butter,  and 
browned.  It  will  require  miirly  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour,  and  when  to  be  served,  some 
beef  gravy  is  poured  through  the  duck  into 
the  dish,  and  in  a  sauce  tureen  some  hot 
Port  wine  is  served.  The  carver  makes 
four  cuts  along  the  breast,  it  is  then  sprin- 
kled with  salt  and  a  little  Cayenne,  tlie  juice 
of  half  a  lemon  is  squeezed  over  it,  and  the 
Port  wine  is  then  poured  all  over. 

To  roast  a- wild  goose,  the  same  directions 
are  followed  as  for  wild  duck,  allowing 
more  time  to  roast  it,  according  to  tlie  size 
of  the  bird. 

Widgeons  and  teal  are  dressed  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  wild  duck,  and  are 
roasted  in  ten  minutes,  and  may  be  serrod 
upon  fried  bread  crumbs. 

Woodcocks  and  snipes  are  roasted  with* 
out  bein<f  drawn ;  a  piece  of  toasted  bread 
buttered  is  put  under  each  bird,  to  catch  the 
trail;  they  are  well  booted  with  butter,  and 
served  upon  the  hot  toast  over  which  they 
were  roasted  ;  a  rich  brown- gravy,  or  melt- 
ed butter,  is  poured  round  them.  Wood- 


G  A  M 


84 


GAT 


cocks  will  require  half  an  hour,  snipes  and 
quails  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  to  roast. 

Ortolans  and  green  plovers  are  not  drawn, 
and  are  roasted  and  served  in  the  same 
manner  as  woodcocks.  f 

To  roast  larks,  wheatears,  and  other 
small  birds,  tliey  are  nicely  picked,  gutted, 
cleaned,  and  trussed;  brushed  over  with 
melted  butter,  and  rolled  in  grated  bread, 
then  spitted  on  a  bird  spit,  which  is  fastened 
upon  a.  larger  one.  They  are  basted  with 
butter,  and  sprinkled  with  some  bread 
crumbs.  They  will  require  nearly  fifteen 
minutes  to  roast,  and  are  served  upon  fried 
bread  crumbs,  and  brown  gravy  in  a  sauce 
tureen. 

Wild  pigeons  may  be  roasted,  or  made 
into  a  pie. 

Plovers'  eggs  are  boiled  hard,  and  served 
in  a  napkin,  or  with  green  moss  put  round 
each  in  the  dish. 

GAME,  ESSENCE  OF.  Take  four 
rabbits,  four  partridges,  two  pounds  of  veal, 
two  pounds  of  steaks;  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  bottle  of  white  wine;  boil 
them  until  the  whole  is  entirely  reduced  to 
a  jelly ;  then  add  to  it  broth,  and  consomme, 
(equal  quantities  of  each),  eight  carrots,  ten 
onions,  three  cloves,  a  little  thyme  and  ba- 
sil; let  the  whole  boil  very  gently,  until  the 
meat  is  quite  done ;  then  strain  it  through  a 
napkin.  No  salt  need  be  put  into  it,  as  the 
broth  and  consomme  are  sufficiently  season- 
ed to  flavor  the  essence  of  game. 

GAME  FRITTERS.  Take  any  of 
those  parts  of  cold  roasted  game,  which  can 
be  cut  into  thin  slices,  dip  them  into  good 
batter,  and  fry  them  in  olive  oil,  or  lard. 
Sprinkle  the  fritters  when  done,  with  salt 
and  spices,  pounded  very  fine. 

GAME  HASHED.     See  Fowl. 

GARLIC  BUTTER  SAUCE.  Pound 
half  a  dozen  cloves  of  garlic;  rub  them 
through  a  silk  sieve,  with  a  wooden  spoon ; 
put  this  into  a  mortar  with  some  butter,  and 
beat  it  until  thoroughly  incorporated;  then 
put  this  butter  into  any  sauce  you  please. 

GARLIC,  ESSENCE  OF.      Take  an 

earthen  skillet,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  put 
into  it  a  bottle  of  white  wine,  half  a  glass  of 
vinegar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  six  cloves 
of  garlic,  the  same  number  of  cloves,  the 
quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  and  two  bay-leaves: 
when  near  boiling,  reduce  the  fire,  and  let  it 
stand  on  hot  ashes  for  seven  or  eight  hours ; 
strain  it  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  then 
filter  it.  Keep  it  in  very  closely  corked 
bottles.  A  very  small  quantity  ot  this  es- 
sence is  requisite  to  impart  its  flavor  to  a  dish. 


GARLIC  GRAVY.  Slice  a  pound  and 
a  h.ilf  nf  veal,  or  U •(•(';  season  it  with  j)op- 
|>er  and  salt;  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with 
two  carrots  split,  and  four  dines  of  Bailie 
sliced,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sliced  ham, 
and  a  large  spoonful  of  water;  put  the  stew- 
pan  over  a  gentle  fire,  ant)  watch  when  the 
meat  begins  to  stick  to  the  pan;  when  it 
does,  turn  it,  and  let  it  U'  very  well  browned, 
(but  take  care  that  it  is  not  in  the  least 
burnt) ;  then  dredge  it  with  flour,  and  pour 
in  a  quart  of  broth,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs, 
a  couple  of  cloves  bnii>ed,  and  slice  in  a 
lemon;  set  it  on  the  fire  again,  then  let  it 
simmer  gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half  longer; 
then  skim  oft' the  fat,  and  strain  off  the  gra- 
vy, by  pouring  it  through  a  napkin,  strain- 
ing and  pressing  it  very  hard. 

GATEAU  DE  COMPIEGXE.     Take 

three  pounds  of  flour,  two  pounds  of  butter, 
an  ounce  and  four  drachms  of  yeast,  an 
ounce  of  silt,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
a  glass  of  cream,  twelve  yolks  and  twelve 
whole  eggs,  and  five  or  six  spoonfuls  of 
whipped  cream. 

With  these  ingredients  proceed  as  follows: 
sift  the  flour,  of  which  put  a  fourth  part  on 
the  slab,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  put  into 
it  a  glass  of  warm  water  and  the  \east ;  mix 
them  together  as  lightly,  and  with  as  much 
despatch  as  possible,  adding  more  warm 
water  if  necessary ;  when  well  worked  up 
for  some  minutes,  gather  it  together,  (it 
ought  to  leave  the  slab  and  the  hand  lively)  , 
put  it  into  a  saucepan ;  cover  it,  and  place 
it  in  a  tolerably  warm  situation  to  rise. 
Take  the  rest  of  the  flour,  lay  it  on  the  slab 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  it,  in  which 
put  the  salt,  sugar,  and  cream ;  stir  these 
together  well,  and  then  put  in  the  eggs,  one 
at  a  time,  (break  them  into  a  basin,  incase 
all  should  not  be  good)  ;  the  eg^s  lx?ing  put 
in,  add  by  decrees  the  butter,  stirring  them 
well;  then  mix  the  flour,  a  little  at  a  time, 
with  the  alxivc,  until  the  wholo  is  formed 
into  a  smooth  paste;  more  ei^s  must  be 
added  if  it  be  too  stiff;  work  it  up  a  little, 
and  then  add  the  leaven  ;  work  that  in;  and 
lastly,  put  in  the  whipped  cream.  The 
whole  operation  being  thus  [x-rfonned,  have 
ready  a  cylindrical  fluted  mould,  (about 
eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  nine  in  height) ; 
butter  it  by  means  of  a  gponge,  being  care- 
fill  that  it  is  done  in  all  parts,  otherwise  the 
gateau  will  adhere  to  it ;  place  the  mould 
in  a  moderately  warm  place,  but  wtere 
there  is  a  free  current  of  air.  When  the  ga- 
teau has  risen  so  as  to  fill  the  mould,  and 
the  surface  is  a  little  inflated,  it  should  be 
put  into  the  oven  instantly,  if  not,  it  falls  and 
becomes  heavy.  The  oven  must  be  of  a 
moderate  heat,  and  kept  closed  while  the 
gateau  is  baking ;  take  it  out  in  about  an 


GHE 


85 


hour,  and  if  it  be  flexible  and  light  colored, 
replace  it  for  thirty  or  forty  minutes;  but 
if,  on  die  contrary,  it  is  red,  and  firm  to  the 
touch,  place  a  tin  plate  on  the  top,  and  put 
it  in  the  oven  till  dune;  reiimxe  the  mould 
with  care,  and  the  gateau  is  lini-'ued.  If 
die  mould  does  not  come  away  quite  so  well 
as  it  ought,  strike  it  gently  with  a  spatula. 
When  taken  out,  put  it  in  the  oven  for  a  few 
minutes  tu  dry. 

This  gateau  is  sometimes  varied  by  the 
addition  of  six  omi'-es  of  sugared  anise,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  dry  currants. 

GATEAU  DE  POMMES.  Boil  in  a 
pint  of  water  one  pound  and  a  half  of  loaf 
sugar  till  it  become  a  rich  sirup ;  weigh 
two  pounds  of  apples  after  they  have  lieen 
peeled,  cored,  and  cut  small ;  boil  tliem  in 
the  sirup  widi  the  grated  peel  and  juice  of  a 
large  lemon  till  they  are  reduced  to  a  pulp; 
put  it  into  a  mould.  The  fiilloxving  day 
serve  it,  turned  out  in  a  glass  dish,  widi  a 
rich  custard. 

GERMAN  PUFFS.  (1)  Mixvm- well 
with  txxo  large  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pint  of  cream,  txxo  well-lx-aten  eggs, 
and  a  tea-spoonful  of  grated  nut  meg.  a  xery 
litde  salt,  and  one  ounce  of  butter  beaten  to 
a  cream ;  bake  it  in  buttered  cups  for  twen- 
ty or  thirty  minutes;  turn  them  out  upon  a 
Jisli,  and  serve  them  instantly;  pour  a  sweet 
sauce  round  tliem. 

GERMAN    PUFFS.     (2)     Beat   to   a 

cream  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
blanch  and  pound  one  ounce  of  sweet  almonds 
xxith  a  little  rose  water,  beat  lixe  yolks  ami 
three  xxhites  of  eggs;  mix  all  together  xxith 
I  ahl>  •-*[>>  ton  fills  of  tlour,  and  sxxeelen 

it  with  jxiunded  loaf  sugar;  bake  it  in  but- 
tered cups,  and  serve  them  widi  a  sweet 


GHERKINS  OR  CUCUMBERS  PICK- 
LEU.  Choose  gherkins  very  green  and 
straight,  brush,  and  place  a  layer  in  a  pan, 
sprinkle  diem  widi  fine  salt,  then  another  lay- 
er of  gherkins,  xxhich  sprinkle  xx  ilh  salt  also, 
and  continue  this  operation  until  you  IIHXC 
used  nearly  a  bushel  of  glierkins,  leave  diem 
in  the  salt  for  txveuty-fi uir  hours,  xxhich  will 
draxx  all  the  xxater  from  diem;  at  the  end 
of  that  lime  drain  and  place  diem  in  ajar, 
xxith  a  handful  of  allspice,  the  same  of  tarra- 
gon, a  little  lialm,  ten  shallots,  six  cloves  of 
garlic,  two  or  diree  long  peppers,  twenty 
cloxis,  H  lemon  cut  in  quarters,  and  two 
small  handful*  of  salt.  Boil  txxo  gallons  of 
die  I >est  xincgar,  pour  it  oxer  die  gherkins, 
and  let  them  stand  till  tin-  next  da\ .  \xhen 
boil  the  vinegar  a  second  lime,  and  [xxir  it 
on  again;  die  following  claxU.il  the  xine- 
t  8 


gar  for  the  third 
the  gherkins,  -J 
jar  with  a  w 


last  time,  pour  it  over 
:n  quite  cold,  cover  the 

uncut. 


GIBLET  PIE.     See  Pies. 

GIBLETS  STEWED,  (.lean  tx'vo  sets 
of  giblets,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  just 
cover  tliem  widi  cold  xxater,  and  set  them  on 
tlie  tire;  when  they  boil,  take  off  the  scum, 
and  put  in  an  onion,  three  cloves,  or  two  blades 
of  mace,  a  fexv  berries  of  black  pepper,  the 
same  of  allspice,  and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of 
salt;  cover  die  stewjian  close,  and  let  it  simmer 
very  gently  till  the  giblets  are  quite  tender: 
this  xx  ill  take  from  one  hour  and  a  half  to 
two  and  a  half,  according  to  the  age  of  the 
giblets;  the  pinions  will  be  done  first,  and 
must  then  In-  taken  out,  and  put  in  again  to 
xx  arm  xxhen  the  gizzards  are  done:  watch 
them  that  they  do  not  get  too  much  done: 
take  them  out  and  thicken  the  sauce  with 
tlour  and  butter;  let  it  boil  half  an  hour,  or 
till  there  is  just  enough  to  eat  xxith  die  gib- 
lets, and  then  strain  it  through  a  tamis  into 
a  clean  stewpan ;  cut  the  giblets  into  moudi- 
liils ;  put  them  into  die  sauce  widi  die  juice 
of  luilf  a  lemon,  a  table-spoonful  of  mush- 
room ketchup;  pour  die  whole  into  a  soup- 
disli,  with  sippets  of  bread  at  die  bottom. 
Ox-tails  prepared  in  die  same  way  are  ex- 
cellent eating. 

(JINGERBREAD.  Rub  one  pound  of 
Ixittcr  well  into  diree  pounds  of  flour;  dicn 
add  one  pound  of  powder-sugar,  one  pound 
ot  treacle,  and  txx  o  ounces  of  ginger  pounded 
and  sifted  very  tine ;  one  nutmeg  grated  very 
fine;  then  wanna  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream, 
and  mix  all  together;  you  may  add  carra- 
xx ax s  and  sweetmeats  if  you  choose;  make 
it  into  a  stiff  paste,  and  bake  it  in  a  slow 
oxen.  It  cake  or  biscuits  are  kept  in  paper 
or  a  drawer,  tliey  will  acquire  a  disagreeable 
taste.  A  pan  and  cover,  or  tureen,  will 
preserve  diem  long  and  moist;  or  if  to  be 
crisp,  laying  diem  before  die  fire  will  make 

thi  -m  SO. 

GINGERBREAD,  AMERICAN.  See 
American. 

GINGERBREAD  WITHOUT  BUT- 
TER. Mix  two  pounds  of  treacle ;  of  or- 
ange, lemon,  citron,  and  candied  ginger, 
each  four  ounces,  all  thinly  sliced ;  one  ounce 
of  coriander-seeds,  one  ounce  of  canlways, 
and  one  ounce  of  beaten  ginger,  in  as  much 
paste  as  will  make  a  soft  paste;  lay  it  in 
cakes  or  tin  plates,  and  bake  it  in  a  quick 
ox  in.  Keep  it  dry  in  a  covered  earthen 
vessel,  and  it  will  be  good  for  some  months. 

.  <.IN<;ERBREAD   INDIAN.    Tak« 


GIN 


86 


GIN 


twelve  ounces  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  fresh  batter,  one  pound  of 
dried  flour,  two  ounces  of  pounded  ginger, 
and  of  cloves  and  cinnamon  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  each.  Mix  the  ginger  and  the  spice 
with  the  .flour;  put  the  sugar  and  a  small 
tea-cupful  of  water  into  a  saucepan ;  when 
it  is  dissolved,  add  the  butter,  and  as  soon 
as  it  is  melted,  mix  it  with  the  flour  and 
other  things;  work  it  up,  and  form  the 
paste  into  cakes  or  nuts,  and  bake  them 
upon  tins. 

GINGERBREAD,      LAFAYETTE. 

Five  eggs ;  half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar ;  half 
a  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  a  pint  of  sugar-house 
molasses ;  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour ;  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  ginger;  two  large  sticks  of 
cinnamon;  three  dozen  grains  of  allspice; 
three  dozen  of  cloves ;  the  juice  and  grated 
peel  of  two  lemons.  Stir  the  butter  and  su- 
gar to  a  cream ;  beat  the  eggs  very  well ; 
pour  the  molasses  at  once,  into  the  butter 
and  sugar.  Add  the  ginger  and  other  spice, 
and  stir  all  well  together.  Put  in  the  egg 
and  Hour  alternately,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Stir  the  whole  very  hard,  and  put  in  the 
lemon  at  the  last.  When  the  whole  is  mix- 
ed, stir  it  till  very  light.  Butter  an  earthen 
pan,  or  a  thick  tin  or  iron  one,  and  put  the 
gingerbread  in  it.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate 
oven,  an  hour  or  more,  according  to  its 
thickness.  Take  care  that  it  do  not  burn. 
Or  you  may  bake  it  in  small  cakes,  or  lit- 
tle tins.  •  Its  lightness  will  be  much  improv- 
ed by  a  small  tea-spoonful  of  pear  lash  dis- 
solved in  a  lea-spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  stir- 
red lightly  in  at  the  last.  Too  much  pearl- 
ash  will  give  it  an  unpleasant  taste.  If  you 
use  pearlash,  you  must  omit  the  lemon,  as 
its  taste  will  Ix;  entirely  destroyed  by  the 
pearlash.  You  may  substitute  for  the  lem- 
on some  raisins  and  currants,  well  floured 
to  prevent  their  sinking. 

GINGERBREAD  NUTS.  (1)  Take  four 

pounds  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar, 
an  iiunct!  of  caraway-seeds,  half  an  ounce 
of  ginger  pounded  and  sifted,  six  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  and  two  ounces  of  candied  or- 
ange-peel cut  into  small  slices ;  then  take  a 
pound  of  treacle  or  honey,  and  a  gill  of 
cream,  make  them  warm  together;  mix  it, 
with  all  the  ingredients,  into  a  paste,  and  j 
let  it  lay  six  hours;  then  roll  it  out,  make  it 
into  nuts,  and  kike  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 

GINGERBREAD  NUTS.  (2)  Take 
one  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  one 
pound  of  treacle,  three  ounces  of  brown  su- 
gar, four  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  one  ounce 
and  a  half  of  pounded  and  sifted  gin»er,  <>f 
candied  orange-peel  and  citron,  cut  small, 
three-quarters  of  an  ounce  each ;  melt  the 


butter  with  the  treacle,  and  when  it  is  about 
milk-wann,  add  it  to  the  flour  and  other 
ingredients,  and  then  mix  all  well  together; 
with  a  spoon  drop  the  nuts  upon  buttered 
tins,  and  bake  them. 

GINGERBREAD  NUTS.  (3)  Dis- 
solve a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  treacle,  put  it  into  a 
pan  large  enough  to  contain  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients,  and  when  almost  cold,  stir  in 
one  pound  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  half  a 
pound  of  coarse  brown  sugar,  half  an  ounce 
of  caraway  seeds,  three-quarters  of  an  ounce 
of  pounded  ginger,  and  the  grated  peel  of  a 
lemon ;  mix  all  these  well  together,  and  let 
it  stand  till  it  be  stiff,  or  till  the  following 
day,  then  make  it  into  nuts,  by  pinching  it 
into  pieces  with  the  finger  and  thumb. 
Bake  them  upon  buttered  tins  in  a  quick 
oven.  Half  an  ounce  of  coriander  seeds 
may  be  added. 

GINGERBREAD  NUTS.  (4)  Rub 
half  a  pound  of  butter  into  two  pounds  of 
flour;  add  one  pound  of  coarse  sugar,  and 
one  ounce  of  pounded  ginger;  mix  all  well 
together  with  one  pound  and  two  ounces  of 
treacle;  form  it  into  nuts,  or  roll  it  out,  and 
cut  it  into  round  cakes;  bake  them  upon 
tins. 

GINGERBREAD,  OATMEAL.  Sift 
four  pounds  of  oatmeal,  and  mix  with  it  four 
pounds  of  treacle,  half  a  pound  of  brown  su- 
gar, tlie  same  quantity  of  melted  butter,  and 
three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  powdered  gin- 
ger. Work  it  all  well  together,  let  it  re- 
main for  twenty-four  hours,  and  then  make 
it  into  cakes. 

GINGER  BEER.     See  Beer. 

GINGER  CAKES.  Put  four  pounds  of 
flour  upon  the  dresser;  then  take  a  copper 
saucepan,  and  break  into  it  six  eggs,  and 
mix  them  well  with  a  spoon;  add  one  pint 
of  cream  to  them,  and  beat  them  well;  put 
the  saucepan  over  the  fire,  stir  till  your  mix- 
ture is  warm ;  put  two  pounds  of  butter  into 
the  cream  and  eggs,  and  one  pound  of  sugar, 
and  keep  stirring  it  over  a  very  slow  fire, 
just  to  melt  all  the  butler;  put  in  four  ounces 
of  pounded  ginger,  and  as  soon  as  all  the 
butter  is  melted,  pour  it  all  into  the  middle 
of  the  flour;  mix  it  as  well  as  you  possibly 
can,  till  it  becomes  a  fine  paste;  then  roll  it 
out  with  flour  under  it  on  your  dresser;  cut 
them  to  the  size  of  the  top  of  a  tea-cup,  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  and  before 
you  put  them  into  die  oven  (which  should  be 
very  hot),  place  three  papers  under  them. 

GINGER  IMITATION.    Peel  off  the 


GL  A 


87 


GOO 


outer  coat  of  the  tender  stems  of  lettuce  that  is 
short,  cut  it  into  bits  one  or  (wo  i  <-h«y  long, 
and  llmnv  it  into  cold  water;  to  -ach  jxmml 
put  in  a  tea-spoonfiil  of  Caycin  c,  and  a 
little  salt ;  let  it  stand  one  or  two  days;  al- 
low an  equal  pro|xntion  of  line  loaf  sugar, 
which  clarify.  Soak  some  good  ginger  in 
hot  water,  slice  it,  and  add  il  to  tlw  siiijar, 
allow  ing  one  ounce  and  a  half  to  the  pound, 
and  IK >il  it  lor  fifteen  minutes;  strain  off  the 
water  from  tlie  lettuce,  and  pour  over  it 
the  sirup,  keeping  back  the  ginger,  with 
which  the  sirup  must  be  boiled  three  times, 
and  poured  over  the  lettuce,  two  or  three 
days  intervening  between  each  boiling ;  and 
at  la.-t  add  the  strained  juice  of  one  or  two 
lemons. 

GLACE,  ROYAL.  Put  the  white  of  a 
new-laid  egg  into  a  pan,  and  mix  with  it  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  white  powder-sugar  to 
make  a  glace  or  icing,  neither  too  dry  nor 
too  liquid;  beat  it  well,  and  add  a  little 
lemon-juice  to  whiten  it.  By  mixing  with 
tin-  glace,  carmine,  saffron,  indigo,  spi- 
nach-juice, &c. ;  it  will  be  either  rose-col- 
ored, yellow,  blue,  green,  &c.  according  to 
your  tnsto 

GLAZE.  (1)  Take  the  remains  of 
any  liquor  in  which  meat  has  been  cooked, 
and  .-train  it  through  a  silk  sieve  until  quite 
clear;  then  put  it  into  a  saucepan  and  re- 
duce it  over  a  brisk  fire:  as  soon  as  it  is 
sufficiently  done,  that  is,  when  it  sticks  to 
the  spoon,  put  it  into  a  smaller  saucepan, 
and  set  it  in  the  bain-marie;  when  wanted, 
add  a  small  piece  of  fresh  butter  to  it,  to 
correct  iln  saJtness. 

GLAZE.  (2)  Make  a  consomme  with 
whatever  remnants  of  fowls  or  meat  that  may 
be  in  the  home;  strain  it,  and  then  put  it  on 
the  lire  with  two  or  three  whites  of  eggs 
beaten  to  a  snow;  stir  till  it  boils,  and  then 
set  on  tin-  side  of  the  stove,  and  place  fire 
on  the  saucepan  lid ;  as  soon  as  the  eggs  are 
set,  (KISS  the  glaze  through  a  wet  cloth ;  re- 
duce  this  OUT  a  lari,ri'  lire,  stirring  it  con- 
stantly with  a  wooden  sjxion  to  prevent  its 
•ticking;  then  |xmr  it  into  a  pot  for  use. 
When  wanted,  put  a  small  quantity  of  it  in- 
to a  sanri-|>an,  and  make  it  hot  over  a  slow 
fire;  and,  in  this  state,  lay  it  gently  over 
such  articles  as  may  require  glazing,  In' 
means  of  a  feather. 

(il.A/K.  (3)  Desire  the  butcher  to  break 
the  Ixines  of  a  leg  or  a  shin  of  Iwef,  of  ten 
pounds  weight  (tin;  fresher  killed  the  better)  ; 
put  it  into  a  s<Hip-|x>t  (a  digester  is  the  best 
nten-il  lor  (his  |>»irjx.se)  that  will  well  hold 
it;  just  cover  it  with  cold  water,  and  set  it 
on  the  fire  to  heat  gradually  till  it  nearly 


boils  (this  should  U-  at  least  an  hour);  skim 
it  attentnely  while  any  scum  rises;  |xmr  in 
a  little  cold  water,  to  throw  up  the  scum 
that  may  remain  ;  let  it  come  to  a  boil  again, 
and  again  skim  it  carefully:  when  no  more 
scum  rises,  and  the  broth  appears  clear  (put 
ill  neither  roots,  nor  ln-rlis,  nor  salt),  let  it 
boil  {or  eight  or  ten  hours,  and  then  strain 
it  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  l>ro\\n  stone 
pan ;  set  tlie  broth  where  it  will  cool  quicklv ; 
put  the  meat  into  a  sieve,  let  it  drain,  make 
potted  beef,  or  it  will  be  very  acceptable  to 
many  poor  families.  Next  day  remove 
every  particle  of  fat  from  the  top  of  it,  and 
pour  it  through  a  tamis,  or  fine  sieve,  as 
quietly  as  possible,  into  a  stewpan,  taking 
care  not  to  let  any  of  the  settlings  at  the 
bottom  of  the  stone  pan  go  into  the  stewpan, 
which  should  be  of  thick  copper,  perfectly 
well  tinned ;  add  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
whole  black  |x-p|«r  to  it;  let  it  boil  briskly, 
with  the  stewpan  uncovered,  on  a  quick 
fire ;  if  any  scum  rises,  take  it  off  with  a 
skimmer :  when  it  begins  to  thicken,  and  is 
reduced  to  about  a  quart,  put  it  into  a  smal- 
ler stewpan ;  set  it  over  a  gentler  fire,  till  k 
is  reduced. 

GODIVEAU.  Take  fillet  of  veal  or 
breasts  of  fowl  or  game,  fresh  pork  or 
sausage  meat,  beef-marrow  or  suet,  equal 
quantities  of  each,  veal  sweetbreads,  truf- 
fles, and  mushrooms;  season  these  articles 
with  pepper,  cloves,  and  nutmeg,  all  in 
powder;  pound  them  all  together,  and 
put  in  (one  at  a  time)  the  yolks  of  eggs; 
pour  in  also  a  little  water,  pounding  con- 
tinually, until  it  is  reduced  to  a  sort  of  paste. 
Make  a  small  ball  of  it,  which  Ixiil  in  a 
little  water  to  ascertain  wliethcr  it  lie  suf- 
ficiently salt;  sweet  lierbs  may  be  added 
when  you  are  about  to  use  it.  Tlie  gottiveau 
is  used  as  a  farce  for  lourles  and  hot  pie*. 

GOOSE,  TO  CHOOSE.  Be  careful 
in  choosing  a  goose,  that  tlie  bill  and  feet 
are  yellow,  as  it  will  be  young:  when  old 
the  feet  and  bill  are  red.  When  they  are 
fresh  the  feet  are  pliable;  if  stale  they  are 
dry  and  stiff.  Green  geese  are  in  <• 
from  May  or  June,  till  they  are  three  montltt 
old;  they  should  Ix'  scalded.  A  stubble 
gootte  is  good  till  it  is  five  or  six  months 
old,  and  should  be  picked  dry. 

GOOSE  ROASTED.     A  stubble  goose 

should  lie  smiled  with  sage  and  onions, 
chopped  small,  and  mixed  with  |icp|>er  and 
salt ;  boil  the  sage  and  onion  in  a  little  w»- 
ter  before  they  are  chopped,  or  mix  a  few 
bread  cmmlis  with  them  wlien  cho|>ped ; 
either  will  render  them  less  strong.  1'ut  it 
fir.-t  at  a  distaee  iVom  tlie  fire,  and  by  de- 
grees draw  it  nearer.  A  slip  of  paper 


GOO 


88 


GR  A 


should  be  skewered  on  the  breast  bone. 
Baste  it  very  well.  When  the  breast  is 
rising,  take  off  the  paper,  and  be  careful  to 
serve  it  before  die  breast  falls,  it  will  be 
spoiled  by  coming  to  table  flattened.  Serve 
it  with  good  gravy  and  apple  sauce,  in 
boats.  It  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  roast. 

GOOSE  TO  TRUSS.  The  goose  must 
be  first  well  picked  and  stubbed,  then  cut 
off  the  pinions  at  the  first  joint,  and  the 
feet  also.  Make  a  slit  in  the  liack  of  the 
neck,  and  take  out  the  throat,  cut  off  die 
neck  close  to  the  l>aek  and  the  skin,  but 
leave  enough  to  turn  over  the  back  ;  make  a 
slit  between  the  vent  and  the  rump,  through 
which  draw  out  the  entrails,  then  wipe  it 
clean.  Draw  the  legs  up,  keeping  them 
close  to  the  side,  then  put  a  skewer  into 
die  wing,  through  the  middle  of  the  leg, 
body,  and  die  leg  and  wing  on  die  odier 
side  ;  put  another  skewer  dirough  the  small 
of  the  leg,  which  keep  close  to  die  sidesmen ; 
nm  it  dirough,  and  do  the  same  on  die  oth- 
er side.  Cut  through  die  end  of  die  vent, 
dirough  which  put  die  rump,  to  prevent  the 
stuffing  from  falling  out. 

GOOSEBERRY  CREAM.  Boil  one 
quart  of  gooseberries  very  quick,  in  as  much 
water  as  will  covet  diem:  stir  in  about  half 
an  ounce  of  good  butter;  when  they  are 
soft,  pulp  them  dirough  a  sieve;  sweeten 
die  pulp  while  it  is  hot,  with  sugar,  dien 
beat  it  up  widi  die  yolks  of  four  eggs ;  serve 
in  a  dish,  cups,  or  glasses. 

GOOSEBERRY  FOOL.  Put  goose- 
berries into  a  stone  jar,  with  some  fine  su- 
gar; put  the  jar  either  in  a  stove,  or  in  a 
saucepan  of  water,  over  the  fire;  if  in  a 
stove,  a  large  spoonful  of  water  should  be 
added  to  the  fruit.  When  it  is  done  to  pulp, 
press  it  through  a  colander ;  have  ready  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  new  milk,  and  a  tea- 
cupful  of  raw  cream',  boiled  togedier,  or 
you  may  use  an  egg  instead  of  the  cream ; 
leave  it  to  get  cold,  then  sweeten  well  with 
fine  sugar,  and  mix  die  pulp  by  degrees 
with  it. 

GOOSEBERRY  MARMALADE.  Boil 
diem  a  moment,  or  only  scald  them  in  boil- 
ing water,  sift  diem  dirough  a  sieve ;  reduce 
them  ova-  die  fire  to  half,  then  mix  diem 
with  sugar  prepared  to  the  nindi  degree  (a 
la  grande  plume),  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to 
a  pound  of  fruit. 

GOOSEBERRY  JAM.     See  Jam. 

GOOSEBERRY  PASTE.  Gather, 
when  quite  ripe,  die  rough  red  gooseberries ; 


top  and  tail  them ;  put  them  into  a  jar,  tie 
it  over  with  bladder,  and  boil  it  in  a  pot 
of  water  till  the  fruit  lie  perfectly  soft;  pour 
off  the  thin  juice,  and  with  a  wooden  s|K>on 
nib  the  Kooeeberriea  through  a  fine  hair 
sis  \e  ;  allow  rather  more  than  half  the 
weight  of  the  pulp  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
mix  it  together,  and  boil  it  till  it  will  jelly, 
which  will  take  almost  two  hours;  stir,  and 
skim  it,  then  put  it  into  a  dish,  and  serve 
when  cold,  to  be  eaten  with  cream.  The 
thin  juice  may  be  Ixjiled  with  its  weightxof 
good  brown  sugar,  and  used  as  gooseberry 
jelly. 

GOURDS  FRIED.  (1)  Cut  five  or  six 
gourds  in  quarters;  take  off  die  skin  and 
pulp;  stew  them  in  the  same  manner  as  for 
table:  when  done,  drain  them  quite  dry; 
beat  up  an  egg,  and  dip  the  gourds  in  it, 
and  cover  diem  well  over  with  bread-numbs ; 
make  some  hog's-lard  hot,  and  fry  them  a 
nice  light  color;  dirow  a  little  salt  and 
pepper  over  them,  and  serve  up  quite  dry. 

GOURDS  FRIED.     (2)     Take  six  or 

eight  small  gourds,  as  near  of  a  size  as  pos- 
sible;  slice  them  widi  a  cucumber-ehce; 
dry  them  in  a  cloth,  and  then  fry  them  in 
very  hot  lard;  throw  over  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  serve  up  on  a  napkin.  Great  at- 
tention is  requisite  to  do  diese  well ;  if  the 
fat  is  quite  hot  diey  are  done  in  a  minute, 
and  will  soon  spoil ;  if  not  hot  enough,  diey 
will  eat  greasy  and  tough. 

GOURDS    STEWED.     Take  off  all 

the  skin  of  six  or  eight  gourds,  put  them  in- 
to a  stewpan,  widi  water,  saU,  lemon-juice, 
and  a  bit  of  butter,  or  fat  bacon,  and  let 
them  stew  gently  till  quite  tender,  and  serve 
up  with  a  rich  Dutch  sauce,  or  any  odier 
sauce  you  please  dial  is  piquante. 

GRAPES,  COMPOTE.  Boil  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  with  half  a  <;lass  of  wa- 
ter, till  it  is  reduced  to  a  strong  simp ;  skim, 
and  dien  put  into  it  a  pound  of  ^r.i|  is,  pick- 
ed from  the  stalks,  and  the  seeds  taken  out; 
give  diem  a  boil  two  or  three  tin. 
then  place  them  in  a  dessert  diMi:  if  there  is- 
any  scum  IIJKJII  them,  carefully  wi|>e  it  off 
with  white  paper. 

GRAPES,  PICKLED.  The  «ra|x* 
must  be  at  dieir  full  growth,  but  not  ripe, 
cut  diem  in  small  bunches  ;  put  them  in  a 
stone  jar,  with  vine  leave.-  Ix-tween  each 
layer  of  grapes,  till  the  jar  is  full;  then  take 
as  much  spring-water  as  will  cover  the 
grapes  and  die  leaves  ;  as  it  heats  put  in  ;is 
much  salt  ag  will  make  a  brine  sufficiently 
strong  to  l>ear  an  egg  ;  you  must  use  half 
bay  salt  and  half  common  salt;  when  it 


GR  A 


89 


GRA 


boils,  skim  it;  strain  it  through  a  flannel 
bai:,  and  let  it  stand  to  settle;  by  the  limt:  it 
IB  cold  it  will  be  quite  settled ;  strain  it  a 
second  time  through  a  Manuel  bag;  then  pour 
it  into  UK- jar,  ii|>oii  llu-  grapi'S,  which  must 
be  well  covered ;  till  tin- jar  « itli  \  ine  leaves; 
then  tie  it  OUT  with  a  double  cloth,  and  set 
a  plate  upon  it;  let  it  stand  for  two  days, 
then  take  off  tin-  cloth,  pour  away  the  brine, 
and  take  out  the  leave?  nnd  the  grapes,  and 
lay  them  Ijetween  two  cloths  to  dry;  then 
take  two  quarts  of  vinegar,  one  quart  of 
spring-water,  and  one  |x>iind  of  coarse  sugar, 
lx)il  it  tor  a  short  time,  and  skim  it  very 
clean  as  it  Ixiils  ;  let  it  stand  till  it  is  quite 
cold;  wipe  the  jar  very  clean  and  dry,  lay 
some  fresh  vine  leaves  at  tlie  bottom,  Ix-tween 
every  bunch  of  grapes,  and  on  the  top;  then 
pour  and  strain  the  pickle  on  the  grapes; 
(ill  tin- jar  ;  let  the  pickle  lie  alxive  the  <,'ra|x-s ; 
tie  up  a  thin  piece  of  board  in  a  Manuel,  lay 
it  on  the  <riapui  to  keep  them  under  the 
pickle;  tie  them  down  with  a  bladder,  and 
over  lh.it  a  leather.  Always  keep  the  grapes 
under  the  pickle. 

( 1 1!  VTI.N.  Cut  half  a  pound  of  fillet  of 
real  into  dice,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  a  piece  of  butter,  a  few  mushrooms, 
jyir.-ley.  shallots  chopped  small,  salt,  pepper, 
and  spices;  stir  them  up  with  a  wooden 
spt»>n ;  and  when  the  meat  has  been  on  the 
fire  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  take  the 
drain  off  the  butter,  mince  it  very-  small,  and 
put  it  into  a  mortar,  with  fifteen  fowl  or 
game  livers,  well  washed,  dried,  and  par- 
boiled, all  the  bitter  parts  taken  out,  ]xmnd 
them,  adding  at  times  as  much  panada  as 
you  have  meal ;  Ixiil  .some  call's  udder,  trim, 
and  remove  all  lite  skin  when  cold,  and  put 
atxMit  ;t  third  of  the  quantity  of  meat,  and 
pound  them  together,  adding,  one  at  a  time, 
three  volks,  and  three  whole  eggs;  season 
with  -all,  pepper,  and  spices;  when  well 
pounded,  set  it  by  in  an  earthen  pan  for 
use. 


GRAVY. 

Sauces. 


See  alto  Cullin  and 


GRAVIES,  DIRECTIONS  RESPECT- 
ING.— The  skirts  of  beef  and  the  kidney, 
will  make  quite  as  good  gravy  as  any  other 
meat .  it'  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

The  kidney  <>f  an  ox,  or  the  milt,  makes 

excellent  gravy,  cut  all  to   pieces,  and  pre- 

•ther  meat;   and  so  will  the  shank 

end  of  mutton  that  has  been  dressed,  if  much 

gravy  is  not  required. 

Tiie  shank-bones  of  mutton  add  greatly  to 
the  richness  of  gravy;  hut  they  should  be 
first  w.-ll  soaked,  and  scoured  clean. 

To  ohtain  the  flavor  of  French  cookery, 
and  to  improve  tlie  taste  of  the  gravies,  tar- 
s' 


ragoo  should  be  used;  but  it  must  not  be 
added  till  a  short  time  before  serving. 

GRAVY.  (1)  Take  three  pounds  of  beef 
steaks,  two  rabbits,  (excepting  the  head* 
and  breasts),  a  knuckle  of  veal,  five  carrots, 
>i\  onions,  two  cloves,  two  bay  leaves,  a 
hunch  of  par.- ley  and  scallious ;  put  all  these 
into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ladlesful  of  broth, 
and  set  tliem  over  a  good  fire  to  reduce; 
then  cover  the  stove,  and  let  the  stewpan 
stand  over  it,  until  the  meat  begins  to  give 
out  tlie  gravy,  and  adheres  slightly ;  the  jel- 
ly at  the  liotiom  of  the  stewpan  ought  to  be 
nearly  black,  and  when  that  is  the  case, 
take  it  from  the  stove,  and  let  it  stand  for 
ten  minutes;  then  fill  up  the  stewpan  with 
good  broth,  or  water,  (if  the  latter,  not  so 
large  a  quantity) ;  let  this  simmer  for  thre* 
hours;  skim  and  season  it  well.  If  water 
is  used  instead  of  broth,  the  gravy  must  lie 
strained  before  it  is  used.  Gravy  may  also 
be  made  of  any  pieces  of  ready  dressed 
meat,  in  die  following  manner:  cut  some 
onions  into  slices,  lay  them  at  the  bottom  of 
the  stewpan,  and  the  meat  on  them,  with 
the  game  ingredients  as  above,  and  two  or 
three  glasses  of  water;  then  proceed  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  other,  until  the  bottom 
of  the  stewpan  is  nearly  black,  when  add 
water  according  to  die  quantity  of  meat; 
(Hit  salt  if  necessary,  and  simmer  the  whole 
for  two  hours;  then  strain  it  through  a 
sieve. 

GRAVY.  (2)  Cut  down  into  slices  four 
pounds  of  lean  beef,  rub  the  bottom  of  the 
pot  with  Initter,  and  put  in  the-  meat ;  turn  it 
frequently  till  it  Ix'  well  browned,  and  do  it 
slowly,  tiieu  add  four  quirts  of  cold  water; 
when  it  lias  boiled  two  hours,  put  in  two 
dessert-spoonfuls  of  whole  pepper,  one  car- 
rot, and  three  onions;  let  it  stew  gently  for 
four  hours  longer,  strain  it,  and  when  it  in 
required  tor  use,  take  off  the  fat.  This  gra- 
vy answer*  for  all  made  dishes  when  brown 
gravy  sauce  is  used. 

GRAVY  AND  STUFFING  FOR 
DUCKS.  Boil  all  the  giblets  excepting  tht 
liver  for  an  hour  in  a  pint  of  water  with  a 
chopped  on  ion,  some  salt  and  pepper;  strain, 
and  add  a  very  little  browning,  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  coratch,  and  one  of  mushroom 
ketchup;  for  the  stuffing,  mince  the  raw 
liver  with  two  sage  leaves,  a  small  onion, 
some  pepper  and  salt,  a  bit  of  butter,  and 
grated  bread  crumbs. 

Send  your  sauces  to  table  as  hot  as  po»- 
sible. 

Nothing  can  be  more  unsightly  than  the 
surface  of  a  sauce  in  a  frozen  state,  or  gar- 
nished with  grease  on  the  top.  Tlie  best 
way  to  get  rid  of  this,  Is  to  pass  it  through 


GRA 


90 


GRA 


4  tatnis  or  napkin  previous!}'  soaked  in  cold 
water;  the  coldness  of  the  napkin  will  coag- 
ulate the  fat,  and  only  suffer  the  pure  gravy 
to  pass  through:  if  any  particles  of  fat  re- 
main, take  them  off  by  applying  filtering  pa- 
per, as  blotting  paper  is  applied  to  writing. 
Let  your  sauces  boil  up  after  you  put  in 
wine,  anchovy,  or  thickening,  that  their  fla- 
vors may  be  well  blended  with  the  other  in- 
gredients; and  keep  in  mind  that  the 
top- knot  of  COOKERY  is,  to  entertain  the 
mouth  without  offending  the  stomach. 

GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES.  It  is  of 
as  much  importance  that  the  cook  should 
know  how  to  make  a  boat  of  good  gravy  for 
poultry,  &c.  as  that  it  should  be  sent  up  of 
proper  complexion,  and  nicely  frothed. 

We  shall  endeavor  to  introduce  to  her  all 
the  materials  which  give  flavor    in   sauce 
which  is  the  essence  of  soup,  and  intended  j 
to  contain  more   relish    in  a    tea-spoonful 
than  the  former  does  in  a  table-spoonful. 

We  hope  to  deserve  as  much  praise  from  I 
the  economist  as  we  do  from  the  ban  vivant; 
as  we  have  taken  great  pains  to'introduce  to 
him  the  methods  of  making  substitutes  for 
those  ingredients,  which  are  always  expen- 
sive, and  often  not  to  be  had  at  all.  Many 
of  these  cheap  articles  are  as  savory  and 
as  salutary  as  the  dearer  ones,  and  those  who 
have  large  families  and  limited  incomes,  will, 
no  doubtj  be  glad  to  avail  themselves  of 
them. 

The  reader  may  rest  assured,  that  wheth- 
er he  consults  this  book  to  diminish  the  ex- 
pense or  increase  the  pleasures  of  hospitality, 
he  will  find  all  the  information  that  was  to 
be  obtained  up  to  1832,  communicated  in 
the  most  unreserved  and  intelligible  manner. 

A  great  deal  of  the  elegance  of  cookery 
depends  upon  the  accompaniments  to  each 
dish  being  appropriate  and  well  adapted 
to  it. 

We  can  assure  our  readers,  no  attention 
has  been  wanting  on  our  part  to  render  this 
department  of  the  work  worthy  of  their  pe- 
rusal ;  each  receipt  is  the  faithful  narrative 
of  actual  and  repeated  experiments,  and  has 
received  die  most  deliberate  consideration 
before  it  was  here  presented  to  them.  It  is 
given  in  the  most  circumstantial  manner, 
and  not  in  the  technical  and  mysterious  lan- 
guage former  writers  on  these  subjects  seem 
to  have  preferred ;  by  which  their  directions 
are  useless  and  unintelligible  to  all  who  have 
not  regularly  served  an  apprenticeship  at  the 
stove. 

It  will  be  to  very  little  purpose  that  I 
have  taken  so  much  pains  to  teach  how  to 
manage  roasts  and  boils,  if  a  cook  cannot  or 
will  not  make  the  several  sauces  that  are 
usually  sent  up  with  them. 

We  have,  therefore,  endeavored  to  give 


tlie  plainest  directions  how  to  produce,  with 
the  least  trouble  and  ex|iense  possible,  all 
the  unions  compositions  the  English  kitchen 
atlords;  and  lii>|K-  to  present  such  a  whole- 
some and  palatable  variety  as  will  suit  all 
tastes  and  all  |x>ckets,  so  that  a  cook  may 
give  satisfaction  in  all  families.  The  more 
combinations  of  this  sort  she  is  acquainted 
with,  the  better  she  will  comprehend  tin; 
management  of  every  one  of  them. 

Let  your  sauces  each  display  a  decided 
character;  send  up  your  plain  sauces  (oys- 
ter, lobster,  &c.)  as  pure  as  |x>ssible:  they 
should  only  taste  of  the  materials  from  which 
they  take  their  name. 

The  imagination  of  most  cooks  is  so  in- 
cessantly on  the  hunt  for  a  relish,  that  they 
seem  to  think  they  cannot  make  sauce  snf'li- 
cii-ntlv  .-avory  without  putting  into  it  every- 
thing that  ever  was  eaten;  and  supposing 
every  addition  must  bean  improvement,  they 
frequently  overpower  the  natural  flavor  of 
their  PLAIN  SAUCES,  by  overloading  them 
with  salt  and  spices,  &c.:  but,  remember, 
these  will  be  deteriorated  by  any  addition, 
save  only  just  salt  enough  to  awaken  the 
palate. 

On  the  contrary,  of  COMPOUND  SAUCES  ; 
the  ingredients  should  be  so  nicely  propor- 
tioned, that  no  one  be  predominant;  so  that 
from  the  equal  union  of  the  combined  fla- 
vors such  a  fine  mellow  mixture  is  produced, 
whose  very  novelty  cannot  fail  of  being  ac- 
ceptable to  the  persevering  gourmand,  if  it 
lias  not  pretensions  to  a  permanent  place  at 
his  table. 

An  ingenious  cook  will  form  as  endless  a 
variety  of  these  compositions  as  a  musician 
with  his  seven  notes,  or  a  painter  with  his 
colors;  no  part  of  her  business  oilers  so  fair 
and  frequent  an  opportunity  to  display  her 
abilities:  SPICKS,  HERBS,  &c.  are  c.flen 
very  absurdly  and  injudiciously  jumbled  to- 
gether. 

Why  have  clove  and  allspice,  or  mace  and 
nutmeg,  in  the  same  sauce ;  or  marjoram, 
thyme,  and  savory;  or  onions,  leeks,  es- 
chalots, and  garlic'!  one  will  very  well  sup- 
ply the  place  of  the  other,  and  the  frugal 
cook  may  save  something  considerable  l>? 
attending  to  this,  to  the  advantage  of  her 
employers,  and  her  own  time  and  trouble. 

JCJ^  See  SAUCES  and  CULLIS  for 
other  important  particulars. 

GRAVIES,  ESSENCE  OF  HAM 
FOR.  Pick  off  all  the  bits  of  meat  from  a 
ham-bone,  pound  them,  break  the  bone,  and 
put  all  into  a  saucepan,  together  with  nearly 
half  a  pint  of  water,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs;  simmer  gently  for  sometime,  stirring 
it  occasionally ;  then  add  a  pint  of  gocd  beef 
gravy,  and  some  pepper,  and  continue  to 
simmer  it  till  it  be  well  flavored  with  the 


GRA 


91 


GRA 


herbs;  strain, and  keep  it  for  improving  rich 
gravies  and  sauces  of  all  descriptions. 

GRAVV  FOR  BOILED  MEAT,    .May 

be  made  with  (tarings  and  Irimmin1.;*;  nr 
pour  fnini  :i  quarter  to  half  a  jiint  of  the  li- 
quor in  which  the  meat  was  Ixiiled,  into  tlie 
tii.-h  willi  it,  and  pierce  the  inferior  jxirt  of 
Uie  joint  with  a  sharp  skewer. 

GRAVY  FOR  ROAST  MEAT.  (1) 

Most  joint*  will  afford  sufficient  trimmings, 
&.<•.  to  make  half  a  pint  of  plain  jjravy,  which 
you  may  color  with  a  few  drops  of  In-owning: 
for  those  that  do  not,  about  half  an  hour  be- 
fore  you  think  the  meat  will  Itc  done,  mix  a 
salt->|xioiifnl  of  <alt,  with  a  lull  quarter-put 

of  Ixiiliug  water;  drop  this  by  degrees  on 
the  brown  parts  of  the  joint;  set  a  dish  un- 
der to  catch  it  (the  meat  will  soon  brown 
a<;aiii);  srt  it  li\  ;  as  it  cools,  the  fat  will 
float  on  thr  sin  lace;  when  tlie  meat  is  ready, 
carefully  remove  the  fat,  and  warm  up  the 
gravy,  a.i.l  |x>nr  it  into  the  dish. 

The  common  method  is,  when  the  meal 
is  in  the  ii:>!i  yon  intend  to  .-mi!  it  up  in, 
to  mix  half  a  tca-s|x>onful  of  salt  »Ji  a  quarter 
pint  of  boiling  walur,  and  to  drop  some  of 
this  ovi-i  tin-  corners  and  underside  of  tlie 
meat,  and  to  pour  i he  rest  through  the  hole 
\he  spit  came  out  of:  some  pierce  the  infe- 
rior parts  of  the  joints  with  a  sharp  skewer. 

The  following  receipt  was  given  us  by  a 
very  £ood  COOK: — You  may  make  good 
brnwnia::  lor  roast  meat  and  poultry-,  by 
saving  the  brown  bits  of  roast  meat  or  broil- 
ed ;  cm  them  small,  put  tliem  into  a  basin, 
cover  them  with  boiling  water,  and  put  them 
away  till  next  day  ;  tlwn  put  il  into  a  sauoe- 
jian.  let  it  boil  two  or  three  inimili--.  -tiain 
it  tliroiiu'h  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  put  it 
use.  When  you  want  gravy  for 
roast  meat,  put  two  tahle-£|K>onfnls  into  half 
a  pint  of  Ixn'ling  water  with  a  little  sail:  if 
for  rousted  veal,  put  three  tahlc-Kpooniul* 
into  half  a  pint  of  thin  melted  butter. 

The  gravy  which  comes  down  in  the  dish, 
tlie  cook  (if  she  is  a  good  hoii>ewife)  will 
prir-eive  to  enrich  hashes  or  little  made 
dislie- ,  xi . 

(iUAVV  FOR   ROAST   MEAT.    (2) 

About  a  ijnartrr  of  :ui  hour  before  llie  meat 
i*  taken  from  the  fire,  put  a  common  dish 
with  a  tea-sjxxmnil  of  salt  in  it  under  the 
meal;  when  it  lias  all  run  into  the  di.-li,  re- 
move il,  baste  and  froth  the  meat,  and  pour 
the  gravy  into  the  dish  on  which  tlie  roast  is 
rwA 

<;K\VY    M\DE  FROM    BONES. 

Break  int  <  small  pieces  a  pound  of  beef, 
mutton,  or  \eal  bones,  if  mixed  together  »o 
much  the  better  ;  boil  them  in  two  quarts  of 


water,  and  after  it  boils,  let  it  simmer  for 
nearly  tluree  hours  :  boil  with  it  a  couple  of 
onions,  a  Inim-h  of  sweet  herbs,  some  salt 
and  pepper;  strain,  and  keep  it  for  making 
gravy  or  sauces.  Tile  bones  of  broiled  and 
roasted  meat  being  scraped,  washed  clean, 
and  Ixiiled  in  lees  water,  answer  equally  well 
tor  this  (Hirjwse. 

GRAVY  MADE  WITHOUT  MEAT. 

(1)  Slice  three  onions,  and  fry  them  brown 
in  a  little  butter;  add   them   to  half  a  pint 
of  water,  and  tlie  same  of  .beer,  put  in  some 
peppercorns,  salt,  a  little  lemon  peel,  three 
cloves,  a  little  mace  or  pepper,  a  spoonful 
of  wall  ml    pickle,   and   one   of  mushroom 
ketchup,  of  soy  and  essence  of  anchovy  a 
dessert-spoonful  each,  a  small  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  and  a  quarter    of  a  slice   of  bread 
toasted  brown  on  bodi  sides;  simmer  all  to- 
gether  in   a   closely  covered   saucepan    for 
twenty  minutes,  then   strain  it  for  use,  and 
when    cold   take  off  the  fat.     It  w  ill  taste 
exactly  like  a  gravy  made  with  meat. 

GRAVY  MADE  WITHOUT  MEAT. 

(2)  Knead  a  good  deal  of  flour  into  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  fry  it  in  a  fry- 
ing-pan over  a  clear   fire,  stir  it  constantly 
with  a  wooden  spoon  till  it  become  a  nice 
brown  color,  taking   particular  care  that  it 
lie  made  perfectly  smooth;    pour   in  some 
boiling  water,  add  a  little  finely-minced  on- 
ion, some  whole  pepper  and  a  little  salt,  put 
it  into  a  small  saucepan,  cover  it  closely, 
and  simmer  it  for  a  short  time ;   strain,  and 
mix  with  it  a  little  mushroom  ketchup,  and 
IWt  wine. 

GRAVY    OR    Rial    CULLIS.     Cut 

into  slices  gome  lean  beef,  veal,  and  mutton, 
cover  the  ItoHoiu  of  die  saucepan  with  the 
veal,  then  put  in  a  few  slices  of  salt  pork, 
next  a  lav er  of  l>eef,  add  a  few  onions  sliced, 
and  the  red  |>art  of  one  or  two  carrots,  u 
little  mace,  two  or  three  cloves,  some  whole 
pepper,  and  two  or  three  bay-leaves,  above 
that  the  mutton;  cover  tlie  pan  closely,  MJ|  it 
on  a  slow  (ire,  and  when  the  meat  is  a  fin* 
brown,  mix  quite  smooth  a  small  quantity 
of  Hour  in  water,  stir  it  in,  and  then  add  an 
much  Ixiiling  water  as  will  cover  the  inc::t 
well,  and  a  little  salt ;  cover  tlie  pan  closely, 
and  let  it  stew  an  hour  and  a  half;  strain, 
and  keep  it  for  use;  it  will  continue  good  for 
eight  or  ten  days. 

GRAVY  DRAWN.  Put  a  few  pound, 
of  gravy-beef  sliced,  and  a  liltle  whole- 
pepper,  into  ajar  with  a  cover  to  til  closely; 
set  the  jar  into  a  pot  of  cold  water,  and  wheu 
it  Ixiils,  add  ;ir  il  wastes  more  hot  wa!.-i, 
and  keep  it  boiling  gently  for  six  • 
hours,  when  the  richest  gravy  in. 


OR  A 


HAM 


will  be  obtained.     It  may  be  used  in  that 
state,  or  reduced  with  water. 

GRAVY,  TO  MAKE  A  PINT  OF 
RICH.  Brown  a  quarter  of  a  |x>n>iil  of 
butter,  dredging  in  two  lable-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  and  stirring  it  constantly;  add  a  pound 
of  yr.ivy-beef  cut  into  small  bits,  and  two  or 
three  onions  chopped.  When  it  becomes 
brown,  add  some  whole  pepper,  one  carrot, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  three  pints  of 
water ;  let  it  boil  gently  till  reduced  to  one, 
then  strain  it.  This  gravy  may  be  served 
with  roasted  turkey  or  fowl. 

GRAVY,  TO  CLARIFY.  Clarify  gra- 
vy, drawn  from  beef  or  veal,  with  the  beaten 
whites  of  eggs,  allowing  one  white  to  a 
quart.  Gravies  and  soups  which  are  to  be 
clarified  should  be  made  very  strong,  and  be 
highly  seasoned. 

GRAVY  AND  SAUCE  INGREDI- 
ENTS. Browning  for  made  dishes. — Put  into 
a  saucepan  one  pound  of  good  brown  sugar, 
stir  it  constantly  over  a  slow  fire,  boil  it 
till  it  is  as  thick  as  treacle,  and  resembles 
it  in  color;  take  the  pan  off  the  fire,  stir  it 
for  a  minute  or  two,  and  pour  in  very  slowlv 
a  quart  of  boiling  water,  stirring  constantly ; 
put  it  again  on  the  fire,  and  boil  it  for  a 
little;  pour  it  into  a  bowl,  and  when  cold, 
bottle  it.  This  browning  will  keep  good 
for  a  year,  and  very  little  of  it  serves  for 
coloring  soups,  gravies,  or  sauces. 

To  clarify  butter. — Put  the  butter  cut  into 
slices  into  a  nicely-cleaned  brass  pan,  stir  it 
gently  till  dissolved:  when  it  boils,  draw  the 
pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  skim  it,  and  let 
it  boil  gently  a  second  time,  and  if  any  scum 
again  rises,  take  it  off;  let  it  settle  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  and  strain  it  gently  through 
a  sieve  which  has  a  piece  of  muslin  laid 
into  it. 

Fresh  beef  suet,  picked  free  from  skin 
and  sinews,  is  dissolved  in  the  same  way; 
it  is  then  strained  through  muslin  into  small 
jars,  and  when  cold,  covered  with  bladder, 
or  it  may  be  strained  into  cold  water ;  and 
tin;  cake  when  cold,  wiped  dry,  folded  in 
white  paper,  and  kept  in  a  linen  bag. 

Beef  suet  will  keep  fresh  for  sometime 
if  finely  chopped  and  dredged  with  flour, 
and  kept  in  white  paper  bags  in  a  cool  place. 

Beef  and  mutton  drippings  are  clarified 
exactly  in  the  manner  butter  is  done,  and 
each  kept  in  a  separate  jar. 

To  melt  hog's-lard,  put  it  into  a  jar  plac- 
ed in  a  pot  of  water  or  water  bath,  strain  it 
into  clean  bladders  or  small  jars,  and  cover 
them  wilh  paper.  Thus  prepared,  it  will 
keep  good  a  length  of  time,  and  is  the  best 
tiling  for  fiying  fish  in. 

To  fry  parsley,  wash  it,  pick  it  clean, 


and  put  it  into  fresh  cold  water;  take  it  out 
and  then  throw  it  into  boiling  lard  or  drip- 
ping, when  it  will  instantly  become  crisp; 
it  is  then  taken  out  with  a  slice. 

GRUEL.    DR.  KITCHENER'S.   Ask 

those  who  are  to  eat  it,  if  they  like  it 
thick  or  thin;  if  the  latter,  mix  well  togeth- 
er by  degrees,  in  a  pint  basin,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  oatmeal,  with  three  of  cold  wa- 
ter; if  the  former,  use  two  spoonfuls. 

Have  ready  in  a  steupan,  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing water  or  milk ;  pour  this  by  degrees  to  i 
the  oatmeal  you  have  mixed  ;  return  it  into 
the  stewpan ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it 
boil  for  five  minutes;  stirring  it  all  the  time 
to  prevent  the  oatmeal  from  burning  at  tlie 
Ixrtioin  of  the  stewpan ;  skim  and  strain  it 
through  a  hair  sieve. 

2d.  To  convert  this  into  caudle,  add  a 
little  ale,  wine,  or  brandy,  with  sugar;  and 
if  the  bowels  are  disordered,  a  little  nutmeg 
or  ginger,  grated. 

4Jbs. — Gruel  may  be  made  with  broth  in- 
stead cf  water;  and  may  be  flavored  with 
sweet  hoilis,  soup  roots,  and  savory  spices, 
by  boiling  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  the 
water  you  are  going  to  make  the  gruel  with. 


H. 

HAM.  If  it  is  a  very  dry  Westphalia 
ham,  it  must  be  soaked,  according  to  its  age 
and  thickness,  from  twelve  to  twenty-four 
hours ;  for  a  green  ham,  from  four  to  eight 
hours  will  Insufficient.  Lukewarm  water  will 
soften  it  much  sooner  than  cold,  when  suffi- 
ciently soaked,  trim  it  nicely  on  the  under- 
side, and  pare  off  all  the  rusty  ami  smoked 
parts  till  it  looks  delicately  clean. 

Give  it  plenty  of  water-room,  and  put  it 
in  while  the  water  is  cold;  let  it  heat  very 
gradually,  and  let  it  l)e  on  the  fire  an  hour 
and  a  half  before  it  comes  to  a  boil;  let  it 
be  well  skimmed,  and  keep  it  simmering 
very  gently:  a  middling-sized  ham  of  fifteen 
pounds  will  be  done  enough  in  about  four  or 
five  hours,  according  to  its  thickness. 

If  not  to  be  cut  till  cold,  it  will  cut  the 
shorter  and  tenderer  for  being  boiled  ubout 
half  an  hour  longer.  In  a  very  small  family, 
where  a  ham  will  last  a  week  or  ten  days, 
it  is  best  economy  not  to  cut  it  till  it  is  cold, 
it  will  be  infinitely  more  juicy. 

Pull  off  the  skin  carefully,  and  preserve  it 
as  whole  as  possible;  it  will  fonn  an  excel- 
lent covering  to  keep  the  ham  moist;  «lien 
you  have  removed  the  skin,  nib  some  bread 
raspings  through  a  hair  sieve,  or  grate  a 
crust  of  bread;  put  it  into  the  perforated 
cover  of  tlie  dredging-lwx,  and  shake  it  over 


HAM 


93 


U  \  M 


it,  or  glaze  it;    trim  the  knuckle  with  a 

fringe  of  cut  writing-paper.  You  mav  i; .u •- 
ni-li  with  spiuage  or  turnips,  Sec. 

To  pol  liain  is  a  much  more  useful  and 
economical  way  of  disj>osing  of  the  remains 
of  the  joint,  tlian  making  essence  of  it. 

II  \M  AND  EGGS.  Cut  some  ham 
into  thin  slices,  and  broil  tliem  on  a  gridiron. 

Fry  .-'inn-  «  L;^-  in  butter.  Serve  it,  laving 
an  egg  on  each  slice  of  ham. 

HAM.  i:«K.\CK  OF.  Take  three  or 
four  |>ouiids  of  lean  ham,  cut  it  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  thick,  and  lay  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  slices  of  carrots,  |>arsni|>s,  and 
tln-ee  or  four  onions;  let  them  stew  till  they 
stick  to  tin-  pan,  hut  take  care  they  do  not 
burn;  lh--u  bv  decrees  pour  in  some  good 
veal  ui-ivv.  ;i  tew  fresh  mushrooms  cut  in 
pieces,  (or  ninshrooiii-|)owder),  truffles,  mor- 
els, cloves,  parsley,  leek,  basil,  and  a  crust 
of  bivad ;  cover  it  clow,  and  simmer  till 
prettv  thick,  then  strain  it  off  for  use. 

HAM  (JRAVY.  Take  a  deep  sauce- 
pan, put  ini»  it  a  piece  of  fresh  butter,  seve- 
ral slices  of  ham,  about  six  pieces  of  veal 
the  r-i/e  of  a  walnut,  and  two  or  thre. 
rvts  cut  in  small  pieces;  set  these  over  a 
slow  tire.  :md  let  them  stand  till  they  give 
out  their  'juices,  and  the  ham  and  veal  be- 
uiil  stick;  then  put  in  a  little 
.-t'>ck,  and  let  it  boil;  iii  an  hour's  time  add 
a  gLiss  of  white  wine,  leave  it  a  quarter  of 
a:i  h  Mir,  wh"n  it  will  be  sufficiently  done; 
lake  off  every  particle  of  fat;  strain  it  into 
id  set  it  l>y  for  use. 

1 1  V  M   I  .< ) A  F.     Soak  a  fine  ham  in  cold 

water  for  one  or  two  days,  acem-dini;  to  its 
age;  tln-n  put  it  into  a  saucepan  just  bi^' 

!i  to  linlil  it,  with  no  ur>re  water  than 

will  cover  it.  and  a  pint  of  white  wine;   let 

it    b  iii,    skimming    it    carefully,    till  done. 

take  out  the  h-H-k    and  under 

.  and  ill;-  skin;  jwre  away  some  of  the 
.  i.l  t.  i.n  it  ti  an  n\al  torm  as  much  as 

I  .  M  ike  a  farce  with  the  |>aringn  of 
the  f.it,  HMie  \eal  or  game,  and  sweet  herbs 
minced  and  pounded.  Take  a  pan  the  size 
v>ii  wish  t  i  have  vour  loaf,  lay  all  over  the 
inside  a  pretty  firm  paste,  and  then  (liav- 
in_'  cut  \  i'ir  ham  into  thin  slices)  place  al- 
ternate' livers  of  it  and  the  tarce  in  the  pan, 
until  it  I*-  quite  full.  Put  a  crust  over  the 
top,  which  iim.t  unite  with  that  in  which 
the  ham  is;  turn  it  over  on  a  baking  plate, 
flour  it,  and  put  it  into  a  very  hot  oven  for 
an  hour  and  a  half  or  two  hours,  according 
to  its  size.  Serve  it  cold. 

II  AM.     MINCED,   WITH    FRIED    EGOS. 

See  Eggs. 


HAM  OMELET.    Take  a  slice  oflwiled 

ham,  mince  it  as  small  as  [xissible,  and  mix 
it  with  a  dozen  eggs  lieaten  with  a  little  veal 
gravy;  fry  it  (keeping  it  of  an  equal  thick- 
ness) in  the  usual  manner. 

HAM,  OR  TONGUE  POTTED.     Cut 

a  pound  of  the  lean  of  cold  boiled  ham  or 
tongue,  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  fat,  or  with  fresh 
butter  (in  the  proportion  of  about  two  ounces 
to  a.  |xmnd).  till  it  is  a  line  paste  (some  sea- 
sou  it  by  degrees  with  a  little  pounded  mace 
or  allspice) :  put  it  close  down  in  pots  for 
that  purpose,  and  cover  it  with  clarified 
butter,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  let  it 
stand  one  night  in  a  cool  place.  Send  it 
up  in  the  pot,  or  cut  out  in  thin  slices. 

HAM  ROASTED  WITH  MADEIRA.* 
Take  a  fine  Westphalia  or  Hayonne  ham, 
pare  and  trim  it  of  as  round  a  form  its  possi- 
ble, take  off  the  end  bone,  and  remove 
the  rind  from  the  knuckle;  then  lay  the  ham 
on  a  gridiron  over  the  lire,  till  you  can  take 
it  up  with  ease;  soak  it,  if  neccs,«:u  v,  and 
put  it  in  a  pan,  with  slices  of  carrots  and 
onions,  tin  me,  bay-leaf,  and  coriander;  pour 
a  bottle  of  Madeira  ti|>on  it,  cover  it  with  a 
clean  cloth,  and  close  the  pan  as  tight  as 
possible,  and  let  it  remain  twenty-four  hours; 
then  wrap  the  liam  in  very  thick  (viper,  fas- 
ten it  with  paste,  so  that  it  may  be  com- 
pletely enclosed,  tie  it  on  a  spit,  and  put 
it  to  roast  for  three  hours;  tlien  make  a 
small  hole  in  the  paper,  and  pour  in,  by 
means  of  a  funnel,  {lie  .Madeira  wine,  paste 
paper  over  the  hole,  and  let  it  roast  anotlier 
hour.  When  done,  take  off  the  paper  care- 
:  it  none  of  the  gravy  may  escape, 
mix  it  with  some  reduced  espagnole,  glaze 
the  ham,  and  serve  it. 

HAM  TOAST.  Cut  some  crumb  of 
bread  into  thin  slices;  then  take- an  equal 
number  of  thin  slices  of  ham,  lx-at  them  well 
with  a  rolling  pin,  and  then  soak  them  in 
warm  water  for  alxmt  two  hours;  lake  them 
out,  dry  them  well,  and  put  tliejn  into  a 
saucc|ian  with  a  little  Ixicon,  a  slice  of  veal, 
ami  half  a  glass  of  stock;  let  them  lx.il  for 
half  an  hour,  and  then  add  half  a  glass  of 
veal  blond.  Fry  your  bread  to  a  nice  col- 
or in  some  lard  ;  lay  it  on  a  dish,  and  on  each 
.1  slice  of  die  hiiin;  pour  the  sauce 
over  them.  Take  particular  care  to  cot 
die  ham  as  nearly  as  possible  die  size  and 
shape  of  die  bread. 

HAM  TO  STEW.     Soak  die  ham  in 

lukewarm  water  tor  twelve  hours,  drain  it, 
Aid  scrape  die  rind ;  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  some  slices  of  fat  bacon  round  the  sides, 
four  quarts  of  weak  stock,  a  good  deal  of 


94 


H  AR 


parsley,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  six  large 
onions,  four  carrots,  a  little  allspice  :uul 
pep|)er,  a  pint  of  Madeira,  and  one  of  Port 
wine.  Cover  the  ham  with  slices  of  fat  ba- 
con, and  put  over  it  a  sheet  of  white  paper; 
stew  it  eight  hours,  or  ten  if  it  IK:  a  very 
large  ham.  Before  serving,  take  off  the 
rind,  strain  the  sauce,  skim  it  well,  and 
boil  it  till  reduced  to  a  glaze,  and  pour  it 
round  the  ham,  or  serve  it  with  any  other 
sauce  tliat  may  be  preferred. 

HAM  WITH  MADEIRA.  Soak  in 
water  for  two  hours  a  Bayonne,  or  any  other 
fine  ham,  boil  it  for  two  hours,  trim  it  quick- 
ly, and  then  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  thin 
slices  of  veal  at  die  bottom ;  add  some  car- 
rots and  parsley,  and  season  with  spices. 
Pour  over  the  ham  a  pint  of  rich  stock  and 
•a  bottle  of  Madeira ;  let  it  boil  for  two  hours, 
strain  and  skim  the  fat  off  the  sauce, 
which,  with  the  ham,  must  be  served  quite 
hot. 

HARE.  As  soon  as  the  cook  receives  a 
hare,  she  should  take  out  the  liver,  &c.,  wipe 
it  well,  put  in  a  little  pepper,  and  hang  it 
up.  When  wanted  for  dressing,  cut  off 
the  four  legs  at  the  first  joint,  raise  the 
skin  of  the  back,  and  draw  it  over  the 
hind  legs ;  leave  the  tail  whole,  then  draw 
the  skin  over  the  back,  and  slip  out  the  four 
legs;  cut  it  from  the  neck  and  head;  skin 
the  ears,  and  leave  them  on.  Clean  the 
vent.  Cut  the  sinews  under  the  hind  legs ; 
bring  them  forward ;  run  a  skewer  through 
one  hind  leg,  the  body,  and  another  hind 
leg;  do  the  same  with  die  fore  legs;  lay  the 
head  rather  back ;  put  a  skewer  in  at  the 
mouth,  through  the  back  of  the  -head  and 
between  the  shoulders ;  put  in  the  stuffing, 
and  tie  it  round  with  a  string,  passing  it 
over  the  legs  to  keep  them  in  their  places: 
the  hare  is  then  ready  for  roasting.  See 
Hare  Roasted. 

HARE,  JUGGED.  Having  skinned  a 
hare,  cut  off  the  shoulders  and  legs,  and  di- 
vide the  back  into  three  pieces;  nib  them 
well  with  fat  bacon,  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  trimmings,  allspice,  mace, 
whole  pepper,  a  small  clove  of  garlic,  two 
bay-leaves,  three  onions,  parsley,  thyme, 
sweet  marjoram,  a  quart  of  veal  stock,  and 
three  gills  of  Port  wine;  simmer  die  whole 
till  three  parts  done ;  then  take  out  the  shoul- 
ders, legs,  and  back ;  put  them  into  another 
stewpan,  strain  (lie  liquor  to  them,  add  a 
little  flour  and  butter,  stew  them  till  quite 
done;  take  off  the  fat,  season  widi  cayenne, 
valt,  and  lemon-juice,  and  serve  die  whole 
in  a  deep  dish. 

HARE  ROASTED.     Cut  die  skin  from 


a  hare  that  has  been  well  soaked ;  put  it  on 
the  spit  and  rub  it  well  with  Madeira,  prick- 
ing it  in  various  places  that  it  may  iinlulie 
plenty  of  wine;  cover  it  entirely  with  a 
]iaste,  and  roast  it.  When  done,  take  away 
the  paste,  rub  it  quickly  over  with  egg, 
sprinkle  bread-cminbs,  and  baste  it  gently 
with  butter  (still  keeping  it  turning  before 
the  fire)  until  a  mist  is  formed  o\cr  it  and 
it  is  of  a  nice  brown  color;  dish  it  over 
some  espagitole  with  Madeira  wine  boiled 
in  it ;  two  or  three  cloves  may  be  stuck  into 
the  knuckles  if  you  think  proper. 

HASHED  HARE.  Cut  up  the  hare 
into  pieces  fit  to  help  at  table,  and  divide 
die  joints  of  die  legs  and  shoulders,  and  set 
them  by  ready.  Put  the  trimmings  and 
gravy  you  have  left,  with  half  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter (there  should  be  a  pint  of  liquor),  and  a 
table-spoon  fill  of  currant  jelly,  into  a  clean 
stewpan,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour:  dien  strain  it  through  a  sieve 
into  a  basin,  and  pour  it  back  into  the  stew- 
pan; now  flour  the  hare,  put  it  into  die 
gravy,  and  let  it  simmer  very  gently  till  die 
hare  is  warm  (about  twenty  minutes) ;  cut 
the  stuffing  into  slices,  and  put  it  into  die 
hash  to  get  warm,  about  five  minutes  before 
you  serve  it;  divide  the  head,  and  lay  one 
half  on  each  side  the  dish. 


HARICOT    BY    WAY    OF    SOUP. 

Cut  a  large  neck  of  mutton  into  two  pieces, 
put  die  scrag  into  a  Mew  pan  with  a  quart 
of  water,  four  large  carrots,  and  turnips; 
boil  it  gently  over  a  slow  fire  till  nil  the 
goodness  be  out  of  die  meat;  then  bruise 
die  vegetables  into  die  soup  to  diicken  it. 
Fry  six  onions  (sliced)  in  butler,  and  put 
die  other  part  of  die  meat  to  the  soup,  and 
stew  till  the  latter  is  tender;  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  serve  it  very  hot  in  a 
tureen. 

HARICOT  MUTTON.  Cut  die  best 
end  of  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton,  that 
has  been  kept  till  tender,  into  chops  of 
equal  thickness,  one  rib  to  each ;  trim  off 
some  of  the  fat,  and  die  lower  end  of  the 
chine  bone,  and  scrape  it  clean,  and  lay 
them  in  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter; 
set  it  o\er  a  smart  fire;  if  your  fire  is  not 
sharp,  the  chops  will  be  done  before  they 
are  colored;  die  intention  of  frying  them  19 
merely  to  give  them  a  very  light  browning. 

While  die  chops  are  browning,  jx.t-1  and 
boil  a  couple  of  dozen  of  young  button  onions 
in  about  diree  pints  of  water  for  about  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes,  set  them  by,  and  pour  off 
the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in  into  the  stew- 
pan with  die  chops:  if  that  is  not  sufficient 
to  cover  diem,  add  as  much  boiling  water  a* 
will  remove  die  .-cum  as  it  rises,  and  be 


HAT 


95 


HER 


careful  they  are  not  stewed  too  fast  or  too 
much;  so  take  out  one  of  them  with  a  fish- 
slice, and  try  it:  \vln-n  they  arc  tender, 
which  will  l»-  in  about  an  hour  and  a  half, 
then  pass  tlie  i;i-i\j  through  a  sieve  into  a 
basin,  set  it  in  the  ojx-n  air  thai  it  may  get 
cold,  xoii  may  then  easily  and  completely 
skim  off  the  fat;  in  the  meantimr  set  the 
meat  and  vegetables  by  the  fire  to  keep  hot, 
and  |x>ur  some  boiling  water  over  the  Union 
onions  to  warm  them.  Have  aU>nt  six 
ounces  of  carrots,  and  eight  ounces  of  tur- 
nips, peeled  and  cut  into  slices,  or  shaped 
into  balls  alxmt  :is  big  as  a  nutmeg;  boil 
the  carrots  about  half  an  hour,  the  turnips 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  put  them  on 
a  sie\e  to  drain,  and  then  put  tliem  round 
the  dish,  llie  last  thing. 

Thicken  the  <;iuv\  by  [Hitting  an  ounce  of 
butter  into  a  siew|«m;  when  it  is  melted, 
stir  in  as  much  Hour  as  will  stiffen  it;  pour 
the  uraiy  to  it  by  degrees,  stir  together  till 
it  l>oils;  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  or 
tainis  into  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  carrots  and 
turnips  to  get  warm,  and  let  it  simmer 
gently  while  yon  dish  up  the  meat;  lay  the 
chops  round  a  dish,  put  the  vegetables  in  the 
middle,  and  |X)i:r  (he  thickened  gra\y  over. 
S<. IN,-  put  in  capers,  &c.  minced  glierkins, 
fie. 

Kninp-steaks,  veal-cutlets,  and  beef-tails, 
make  excellent  dishes  dressed  in  the  like 
manner. 

ll\S|f,  COLD.  Mince  a  nice  white 
piece  of  veal,  wash  and  core  some  anchovies ; 
take  some  pickled  oysters,  pickled  cucum- 
!»•!-.  anil  a  lemon;  shred  and  mix  them 
with  tin-  \eal,  and  place  it  in  a  dish;  lay 
round  il  slides  of  v««l,  fillets  of  anchovies, 
pickled  cucumbers  sliced,  whole  pickled 
oysters,  muslirooms  and  capers;  lettuces 
sin.  ;  -mall;  |«>m  in  oil  and  vinegar,  salt 
and  |x-p|*-r,  and  serve. 

II  VSIII'.s,  MADE  DISHES, STEWS, 

UA<iol  rs.soi  "PS,  TO  WARM.  Put 
what  MIII  ha\e  lefi  into  a  deep  ha.-h-di-h  or 
•.  it  n  son  want  it,  set  this  in  a  stew- 
pan  of  U.ilini;  water:  let  it  stand  till  the 
i-iiiiti-ni.-  are  (juile  wiu'in. 

n  \TTI;I;I:D  KIT.    (i)    Make  two 

(|uarts  of  new  milk  scalding  hot,  and  pour 
it  ijuickly  U|xm  li>ur  i|iiarts  of  fresh-made 
bntii-r  milk,  after  which  it  must  not  be  stir- 
ret  1 ;  lit  it  remain  (ill  cold  and  firm,  then 
take  of)'  the  top  part,  drain  it  in  a  hair  sieve, 
and  put  it  into  a  shape  for  half  an  hour.  It 
.  served  in  a  separate 

dish. 

HATTF.KKI)  KIT.  (2)  Put  into  the 
di-h  it  is  to  U-  served  in,  one-third  of  cream 


with  two-thirds  of  Unier-milk,  add  a  little 
potmded  loaf  sn^ar,  and  l>eat  it  well  togeth- 
er. Strew  over  it  ;i  little  pounded  cin- 
namon, and  let  it  stand  for  three  or  four 
hours. 

1 1  \  \\  THORN    LIQUOR.       The    fall 

blossoms  of  llie  white  thorn  are  to  lx>  picked 
dry  and  clean  from  tl»e  leaves  and  stalks, 
and  as  much  put  into  n  large  bottle  as  it  will 
hold  lightly  without  pressing  down;  it  is 
then  to  be  filled  up  with  French  brandy, 
and  allowed  to  stand  two  or  three  months, 
when  it  must  be  decanted  off,  and  sweetened 
with  clarified  sugar,  or  with  capillaire. 
Without  the  sweetening,  it  is  an  excellent 
seasoning  for  puddings  and  custards. 

HEDGEHOG    TO    MAKE.      Blanch 

two  pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  beat  them  to 
a  piste  iii  a  mortar,  moistening  occasionally 
w  ith  ( 'unary  and  orange-flower  water  ;  beat 
the  yolks  of  twelve,  and  the  whites  of  seven 
eggs  with  a  pint  of  cream  and  some  |jowder 
sugar;  put  this  with  the  almond  paste  and 
half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
set  it  over  a  Btove  and  keep  it  constantly 
stirring  till  sufficiently  firm  to  Ix-  moulded 
into  the  shape  of  a  hedgehog:  stick  it  full 
of  blanched  almonds,  cut  lengthwise,  into 
slips,  and  place  it  in  a  dish ;  beat  up  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  put  them  to  a  pint  of 
cream  (sweetened  to  the  taste) ;  stir  them 
over  a  slow  fire  till  hot,  then  pour  it  round 
the  hedgehog  and  let  it  stand;  when  cold, 
serve  it.  A  good  calf's-foot  jelly  may  be 
poured  round,  instead  of  the  cream,  if  pre- 
ferred. 

HERBS,  A  BUNCH  OF  SWEET,   Is 

made  up  of  parsley,  sweet  marjoram,  winter 
savory,  orange  and  lemon  thyme ;  the  great- 
est proportion  of  parsley. 

HERBS,  SWEET.  These  in  cookery 
are  parsley,  chil>hol,  rocambole,  winter  sa- 
vory, thyme,  Ixu-leal",  liasil,  mint,  borage, 
rosemary,  cress,  marigold,  marjoram,  &c. 
The  relishing  licrlis  or  Ravigotte  are  tar- 
ragon, garden-cress,  cliervil,  buniet,  civet, 
and  green  mustard. 

HERBS  TO  DRY,  SWEET  AND 
SAVORY.  It  u  very  important  to  those 
who  are  not  in  tin-  constant  habit  of  attend- 
ing the  markets  to  know  w lu-n  the  various 
season*  commence  fur  purchasing  sweet 
herbs. 

All  vegetables  are  in  the  highest  state 
of  |x-rfei-iion,  and  fullest  of  juice  and  flavor, 
just  U- lore  tliey  begin  to  flower:  the  first 
and  List  crop  ha\.-  neither  the  fine  flavor, 
nor  the  pel  fume  of  iho.«e  which  are  gathered 
in  the  height  of  the  season ;  that  i»,  when 


HER 


96 


HOG 


the  greater  part  of  die  crop  of  each  species 
is  ripe. 

Take  care  they  are  gathered  on  a  dry 
day,  by  which  means  they  will  have  a  bet- 
ter color  when  dried.  Cleanse  your  herbs 
well  from  dirt  and  dust ;  cut  off  the  roots ; 
separate  the  hunches  into  smaller  ones,  and 
dry  them  by  the  heat  of  a  stove,  or  in  a 
Dutch  oven  before  a  common  fire,  in  such 
quantities  at  a  time,  tlrat  the  process  may  be 
speedily  finished  ;  i.  e.  '  Kill  'em  quick,' 
says  a  great  botanist;  by  this  means  their 
flavor  will  behest  preserved:  there  can  be 
no  doubt  of  the  propriety  of  drying  herbs, 
&c.  hastily  by  the  aid  of  artificial  heat, 
rather  than  by  the  heat  of  the  sun.  In  the 
application  of  artificial  heat,  the  only  cau- 
tion requisite  is  t<>  avoid  burning ;  and  of 
this  a  sufficient  test  is  afforded  by  the  pres- 
ervation of  the  color.  The  common  cus- 
tom is,  when  they  are  perfectly  dried  to  put 
them  in  bags,  and  lay  them  in  a  dry  place; 
but  the  best  way  to  preserve  the  flavor  of 
aromatic  plants  is  to  pick  off  the  leaves  as 
soon  as  they  are  dried,  and  to  pound  them, 
and  put  them  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  keep 
them  in  Irell-atopped  lx>!tles.  The  common 
custom  is  to  put  them  into  paper  bags,  and 
lay  them  on  a  shelf  in  the  kitchen,  exposed 
to  all  the  fumes,  steam,  and  smoke,  &c.: 
thus  they  soon  lose  their  flavor. 

N.  B.  Herbs  nicely  dried  are  a  very  ac- 
ceptable substitute  when  fresh  ones  cannot 
be  got;  but,  however  carefully  dried,  the 
flavor  and  fragrance  of  the  fresh  herbs  are 
incomparably  finer. 

HERRINGS.  There  are  three  sorts  of 
herrings,  fresh,  salted,  and  dried  or  red  her- 
rings. They  are  emptied  and  cleaned  like 
any  other  li/li ;  when  fresh,  they  are  broiled, 
and  served  with  melted  butler,  white  sauce, 
&c. 

The  salted  herring  should  lie  soaked  in 
cold  water  before  it  is  cooked ;  this  is  also 
broiled ;  sometimes,  however,  it  is  cut  in 
pieces,  and  eaten  raw. 

The  red  hen-ing  is  split  down  the  back, 
the  head  and  tail  are  cut  off,  and  the  fish 
broiled  like  the  others. 

They  may  also  be  dressed  as  follows: 
when  they  have  lain  in  cold  water  a  suffi- 
cient time,  soak  them  for  two  hours  in  milk, 
then  split  them  down  the  back ;  then  have 
ready  some  melted  batter,  in  which  has  been 
mixed  basil  and  bay-leaf,  minced  small,  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  pepper  and  nutmeg ;  nib 
the  herrings  well  with  this,  bread  them; 
broil  them  over  a  gentle  fire,  and  serve  with 
lemon-juice. 

The  best  red  herrings  are  full  of  roe, 
are  firm  and  large,  and  have  a  yellow- 
cast. 

Of  the  fresh  herring  the  scales  are  bright 


if  good,  the  eyes  are  full,  and  the  gills  red, 
the  fish  also  should  I*  stiff. 

HERRINGS,  FOILED.  Scale,  and 
otherwise  prepare  the  hen-ings  in  the  usual 
way  ;  dry  them  well,  and  rub  them  over  with 
a  little  salt  and  vinegar;  skewer  their  tails 
in  their  mouths,  lay  them  on  a  fL-h-plate,  and 
put  them  into  boiling  water;  in  ten  or 
twelve  minutes  take  them  out,  drain  them, 
lay  them  on  the  dish,  the  heads  towards  the 
middle;  serve  them  with  melted  butter  and 
parsley,  and  garnish  with  bonetaduh. 

HERRINGS,  RED.  Plain  broil  them, 
or  pour  over  some  Ix-er  made  hot,  and  when 
it  is  cold  drain  and  wipe  them  dry ;  heat 
them  thoroughly,  and  rub  over  a  little  butter, 
and  sprinkle  them  with  pepper. 

HERRINGS  TO  BAKE.  They  must 
be  perfectly  fresh,  and  well  cleaned,  but  not 
washed ;  the  heads  and  fins  cut  off,  and  the 
bones  cut  out;  strew  over  them  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  slice  of  onion  minced  \eiy  finely,  to 
each;  roll  them  up  tight;  pack  them  into  a 
jar,  and  pour  over  in  the  proportion  of  a 
pint  of  vinegar  to  two  of  water,  with  half 
an  ounce  of  whole  black  pepper;  tic  over 
the  jar  a  piece  of  bladder  or  paper,  and 
bake  them  in  an  oven  for  an  hour.  Takti 
off  the  cover  when  they  are  cold,  and  pom 
over  a  little  cold  vinegar,  and  tie  them  up. 

HERRINGS  TO  FRY.  Scrape  off 
the  scales;  cut  off  the  lias;  draw  out  the 
gut,  keeping  in  the  roes  and  melts;  wipe 
them  in  a  clean  cloth;  dredge  them  with 
flour,  and  fry  them  in  boiling  dripping;  put 
them  before  the  fire  to  drain  and  keep  hot. 
Sauces; — melted  butter,  and  parsley  and 
butter.  When  herrings  are  to  be  broiled, 
they  are  prepared  in  the  same  manner,  and 
done  upon  the  gridiron.  They  must  not  be 
washed. 

HIPPOCRAS.  Take  one  ounce  of 
cinnamon,  two  drachms  of  ginger,  two  pen- 
ny-weights of  cloves,  nutmeg,  and  galangal 
a  penny-weight  of  each.  Pound  these  to- 
gether well,  and  infuse  them  in  a  pint  of  red 
or  white  wine,  and  a  pint  of  malmsey;  to 
this,  add  a  pound  of,  the  best  loaf  sugar. 
These  proportions  will  make  a  quart  of 
the  liquor. 

HOG'S  HEAD.  Put  a  head  into  some 
pickle,  and  when  it  has  lain  sufficiently  long, 
take  it  out  and  boil  it  till  the  bones  will 
come  out  with  ease;  then  skin,  bone,  and 
chop  the  meat,  whilst  hot;  season  it  with 
pepper  (black  and  while),  nutmeg,  and  salt, 
if  necessary ;  lay  part  of  the  skin  at  the 
bottom  of  a  potting  pan,  press  in  the  meat, 


HUN 


97 


ICE 


cover  it  with  the  remainder  of  the  skin,  put  > 
on  a  weight,  and  let  it  stand  till  <|uile  cold. 
Then  tuni  it  out.     I'.oil   the   li(|iior  it  was 
dressed  in  with  some  vinegar,  skim  it  well, 
and  when  oil, I  put  the  head  into  it. 

1I()\EY  TO  CLARIFY.— M.  Fou- 
<lUE's  METHOD.  Take  six  |x>unds  of 
honex ,  :i  pi  mud  and  three-quarters  of  wafer, 
two  onuc.  s  and  a  quarter  of  [xiunded  chalk, 
five  oniH-es  ufroal,  (pulverised,  washed,  and 
well  dried),  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten 
in  three  ounces  of  water,  for  eacli  pound  of 
honey. 

Put  die  honey,  water,  chalk,  and  eggs, 
into  a  cop|x-r  vessel,  capable  of  holding 
about  one-third  more  than  the  above  quanti- 
ties ;  let  them  lx>il  for  two  minutes,  throw 
in  the  coal,  mixing  it  with  a  spoon,  and 
continue  the  boiling  two  minutes  longer; 
then  take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and 
let  it  stand  nearly  a  (purler  of  an  hour,  that 
the  liquor  mav  cool ;  then  take  a  neu  sieve 
(which  must  ix-  well  u ashed,  or  it  will  im- 
part a  disa'jree-iMe  taste),  pass  the  honey 
through  it,  taking  ft  ire  to  filter  the  first 
drops  twice,  ;ts  they  generally  cany  with 
them  some  portion  of  the  i 

ii|>  which  still  adheres  to  the  coal, 
and  other  materials,  may  be  separated  as 
follows:  pour  boiling  water  on  them  until 
they  no  longer  retain  any  sweetness;  then 

put  these  dilVereiit  waters  together,  set  them 
over  a  large  lire  to  eva|>orate,  till  the  sirup 
only  remains.  This  sirup  contracts  the  fla- 
vor of  Inn  ley  sugar,  and  must  not  be  added 
to  the  clarified  honey. 

IIOKsr.KADISH    POWDER.      The 

time  to  make  this  is  during  \ovemtxT  and 
December;  .-lice  it  the  thickness  of  a  shil- 
ling, and  lay  it  to  dn  very  gradually  in  a 
Dnii  li  o\en  (a  strong  heat  soon  eva[xirates 
its  tla\or);  when  dry  enough,  pound  it  and 
bottle  it. 

HOI'  PICKLE.     Boil,  in  two  quarts  of 
vinegar,  a  quarter  of  a  |>oimd  of  salt,  two 
ounces  of  shallots  or  garlic,  and  two  of  gin- 
ger, one  ounce  of  pepper,  one  of  yellow  mus- 
i,  and  a   (|itarter    of  an   ounce   of 
|Xit  into  a  jar  that  will  hold  tour 
two  ounces  of  allspice,  and  pour  on 
it  the  hot   pickle.      Whrn  cold,  put   in  am 
ildes  or  fruit,  such  as 
'-,  cauliflower,  French  beans,  radish 
pod.-,  unripe  apples,  gooseberries,  currants, 
which  may  !*•  added  a-  tli.'  opportunity  of- 
fers, and,  .1-  the  pickle  wastes,  it  should  be 
I  with  the  aome  mixture. 

Il-BON  I !  OF  BEEF.     See  Beef. 

HI  NG  BEEF.     See  Beef. 
9 


HUNTING  BEEF.     See  Beef. 
HUNTER'S  PIE.     See  Irish  Stew. 


I. 


ICE.  Sorbetieres  or  moulds  for  cream 
or  fniit-ices,  are  made  of  two  sorts  of  ma- 
terials, Mock-tin  and  |>ewter;  of  these,  the 
latter  is  the  l>est,  the  substance  to  be  iced 
congealing  more  gradually  in  it  than  in  the 
former;  an  object  much  to  be  desired,  as 
when  the  ice  is  formed  too  quickly,  it  is  very 
apt  to  be  rough,  and  full  of  lumps  like  hail, 
especially  if  it  be  not  well  worked  with  the 
spatula ;  the  other  utensils  necessary  for  this 
operation,  are,  a  deep  pail,  with  a  cork  at 
the  bottom,  and  a  wooden  spatula  about 
nine  inches  long;  being  so  far  provided,  fill 
the  pail  with  pounded  ice,  over  which  spread 
four  handfuls  of  salt;  then  having  filled  the 
sorbetiere,  or  mould,  with  cream,  &c. ;  put 
on  the  cover,  and  immerse  it  in  the  centre 
of  the  ice-pail;  taking  care  the  ice  touches 
the  mould  in  all  parts;  throw  in  two  more 
handfuls  of  salt,  and  leave  it  a  quarter  of  an 
hour;  then  take  the  cover  from  the  mould, 
and  with  the  spatula  stir  the  contents  up  to- 
gether, so  that  those  parts  which  touch  the 
sides  of  the  mould,  and  consequently  congeal 
first,  may  be  mixed  w  ith  the  liquid  in  the 
middle;  work  this  alxnit  for  seven  or  eigh'. 
minutes;  cover  the  mould,  take  the  pail  by 
tire  ears,  and  shake  it  round  and  round  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour;  o|>eii  the  mould  a  sec- 
ond time,  and  stir  as  Ix-lore;  continue  these 
operations  alternately,  until  the  en-am,  or 
whatever  it  may  l>e,  is  entirely  congealed, 
and  |x-rfe<-lly  smooth,  and  free  from  lumps. 
Take  care  to  let  out  the  water,  which  will 
collect  at  the  bottom  of  the  pail,  by  means 
of  the  cork,  and  press  the  ice  close  to  the 
sorlx'ticre  with  the  spatula. 

When  the  cream  is  iced,  take  it  from  the 
|>ail,  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  but  not 
to  let  it  remain  an  instant;  dry  it  quickly, 
turn  it  out,  and  serve  it  as  soon  as  possible. 

All  sorts  of  ices  are  finished  in  this  man- 
ner ;  the  preparation  of  the  articles  of  which 
they  are  composed,  constitutes  the  only  dif- 
ference between  them. 

ICE,  A  VERY  LARGE  CAKE.     I.,  :,t 

tlin  whites  of  twenty  fresh  egg-;  then,  by 
degrees,  beat  a  pound  of  double-refined  su- 
gar, sifted  through  a  lawn  sieve;  mix  these 
well  in  a  deep  earthen  pan ;  add  orange- 
flower  water,  and  a  piece  of  froh  lemon- 
peel;  do  not  use  more  of  the  orange-flower 
water  than  is  just  sufficient  to  flavor  it. 
Whisk  it  fir  three  hours  till  the  mixture  is 
thick  and  white;  tlicn,  with  a  thin  broad 


ICI 


98 


IRI 


bit  of  board,  spread  it  all  over  the  top  and 
sides,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  oven,  and  an  hour 
wiU  harden  it. 

ICE  FOR  ICING  (HOW  TO  PRE- 
PARE). Take  a  few  pounds  of  ice,  break 
it  almost  to  powder,  and  tlirow  in  among  it 
a  large  handful  and  a  half  of  salt ;  you  must 
prepare  in  the  coolest  part  of  the  house,  that 
as  little  of  the  warm  air  as  possible  may 
come.  The  ice  and  salt  lacing  in  a  bucket, 
put  your  cream  into  an  ice-pot,  and  cover  it ; 
immerse  it  in  the  ice,  and  draw  that  round 
the  |x>t,  so  that  it  may  touch  every  part.  In 
a  few  minutes  put  a  spatula  or  spoon  in,  and 
stir  it  well,  removing  the  parts  that  ice  round 
the  edges  to  the  centre.  If  the  ice-cream  or 
water,  be  in  a  form,  shut  the  bottom  close, 
and  move  the  whole  in  the  ice,  as  you  can- 
not use  a  spoon  to  that  without  danger  of 
waste.  There  should  be  holes  in  the  buck- 
et, to  let  the  ice  off  as  it  thaws. 

ICING  FOR  CAKES.  For  a  large 
cake,  teat  and  sift  eight  ounces  of  fine  sugar, 
put  it  into  a  mortar,  with  four  spoonfuls  of 
rose  water,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
beaten  and  strained,  whisk  it  well,  and 
when  the  cake  is  almost  cold,  dip  a  feather 
in  the  icing,  and  cover  the  cake  well;  set  it 
in  the  oven  to  harden,  but  do  not  let  it  re- 
main long  enough  to  discolor.  Keep  the 
cake  in  a  drv  place. 

ICING  FOR  TARTS.  Beat  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  and  some  melted  butter  well  toge- 
ther; wash  the  tarts  with  a  feather,  and 
sift  sugar  over  as  you  put  them  into  the 
oven ;  or  beat  white  of  egg,  wash  the  paste, 
and  sift  white  sugar. 

ICING,    FOR     TWELFTH     OR     BRIDE 

CAKE.  Take  one  pound  of  double-refined 
sugar,  pounded  and  sifted  through  a  lawn 
sieve;  put  into  a  pan  quite  free  from  grease; 
break  in  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  and  as  much 
powder  bine  as  will  lie  on  a  sixpence;  beat 
it  well  with  a  spattle  for  ten  minutes?  thru 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  beat  it 
till  it  becomes  thick  and  trans|>areut.  Set 
the  cake  you  intend  to  ice  in  an  oven  or 
warm  place  five  minutes ;  then  spread  over 
the  top  and  sides  with  the  mixture  as  smooth 
as  possible.  If  for  a  wedding  cake  only, 
plain  ice  it ;  if  for  a  twelfth  cake,  ornament 
it  with  gum  paste,  or  fancy  articles  of  any 
description.  A  good  twelfth  cake,  not  bak- 
ed two  much,  and  kept  in  a  cool  dry  place, 
will  retain  its  moisture  and  eat  well,  if 
twelve  montlis  old. 

ICING  FOR  FRUIT  TARTS,  PDFFS, 
OR  PASTRY.  Beat  up  in  a  half-pint  mug 
the  white  of  two  eggs  to  a  solid  froth;  lay 


some  on  the  middle  of  the  pie  with  a  paste- 
brush  ;  sift  over  plenty  of  pounded  sugar,  and 
press  ii  down  with  the  hand,  wash  out  the 
brush,  and  splash  by  degrees  with  water  till 
the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  put  it  in  the  oven 
for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  it  up  cold. 

IMPERIAL.  Put  two  ounces  of  cream 
of  tartar,  and  the  juice  and  peel  of  two  lem- 
ons, into  a  stone  jar,  pour  on  them  seven 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  stir,  and  cover  close. 
When  cold,  sweeten  it  with  loaf  sugar,  strain 
it,  bottle  and  cork  it  tight.  Add  in  buttling, 
half  u  pint  to  the  whole  quantity. 

INDIA  PICKLE.  (1)  Take  one  pound  of 
ginger,  put  it  into  a  pan  with  salt  and  wa- 
ter, and  let  it  lay  all  night,  then  scrape  it, 
and  cut  it  into  thin  slices;  put  it  into  a  jjan 
with  half  a  pound  of  bay  salt,  and  let  it  lay 
till  all  the  following  ingredients  are  prepar- 
ed; a  pound  of  garlic  peeled,  and  laid  in 
salt  for  three  days,  then  take  it  out,  wash  it, 
then  let  it  lay  in  salt  for  another  three  days, 
then  take  it  out  and  let  it  lay  in  the  sun  for 
another,  till  half  dry;  an  ounce  of  long  pep- 
per, an  ounce  of  capsicum,  salted  and  laid 
in  the  sun  for  three  days,  a  pint  of  black 
mustard-seed  bruised,  half  an  ounce  of  tur- 
meric, beat  very  small ;  put  all  these  ingre- 
dients together  in  a  jar,  then  put  in  as  much 
vinegar,  as,  when  tin:  cabbage,  or  whatever 
yon  intend  to  pickle,  is  put  into  it,  the  vine- 
gar will  rise  to  the  top  of  the  jar.  Then 
t;ike  cablwgf,  cauliflower,  or  whatever  you 
choose  to  pickle,  and  cut  them  into  small 
pieces,  throw  a  good  handful  of  salt  over 
them,  and  set  them  in  the  sun  (when  it  is 
very  hot)  for  three  days,  drain  the  water 
from  them  every  day,  and  fresh  salt  them 
again,  turning  the  leaves  till  they  are  dry, 
then  put  them  into  the  pickle,  Ix'ing  partic- 
ular that  they  are  completely  covered  with 
the  vinegar;  tie  it  up  close,  let  it  stand  a 
fortnight,  lill  it  airain  with  more  vinegar, 
carefully  watch  it  from  time  to  time,  to  fill 
it  up  with  vinegar,  ;is  it  will  waste  very  fast. 

INDIA  PICKLE.  (2)  One  gallon  of  vin- 
egar, one  pound  of  garlic,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  long  pepper  split,  half  a  pound  of 
flour  of  mustard,  one  pound  of  ginger  scrap- 
ed, and  split,  and  two  ounces  of  turmeric. 
When  you  have  prepared  the  spice,  and  put 
it  into  the  jar,  pour  the  vinegar  boiling  hot 
over  it,  and  stir  it  every  day  for  a  week. 
Then  put  in  your  cabbage,  cauliflower,  or 
whatever  you  intend  to  pickle. 

INDIAN  CURRY.     See  Curry. 

IRISH  PUFFS.  Add  to  five  well- 
beaten  yolks  and  two  whites  of  eggs,  a  large 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  not  quite  an  ounce  of 


ISI 


99 


JAM 


melted  butter,  and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ; 
beat  it  all  well  for  ten  minutes,  and  add  half 
a  pint  of  cream;  bake  it  in  buttered  tea- 
cups; turn  them  out,  and  serve  them  with  a 
sweet  sauce. 

IRISH  ROCK.  Blanch  a  pound  of 
sweet  iuid  an  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  pick 
out  a  few  of  the  sweet  almonds,  ami  cut 
them  like  straws,  and  blanch  them  in  rose 
water ;  |x >uinl  the  rest  in  a  mortur  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  brandy,  four  ounces  of 
pounded  .iiitl  silted  loaf  sugar,  and  half  a 
]x>nnd  of  salt  butter  well  washed;  pound 
them  till  the  mass  looks  very  white,  and  set 
it  in  a  cool  place  to  stiffen;  then  dip  two 
table-spoons  into  cold  water,  and  with  them 
furm  i in-  paste,  as  much  like  an  egg  as  pos- 
sible ;  plan-  in  tlie  bottom  of  a  glass  dish,  a 
small  plate  or  saucer  turned,  and  lay  the 
rock  hi-ii  up;  stick  over  it  the  cut  almonds, 
with  urcen  .-wceimeats,  and  ornament  with 
of  myrtle. 

IU1S1I  STEW,  OR  HUNTER'S  PIE. 
t  of  a  neck  of  mutton,  cut  it  into 

it  well,  put  it  into  a  stew  pan, 
let  it  l>ia.-e  for  half. in  hour,  take  two  dozen 
-,  boil  them,  mash  them,  and  sea- 
son them,  Ixittcr  your  mould,  and  line  it  with 
the  potatoes, put  in  the  mutton,  bake  it  for 
half  an  hour,  tlien  it  will  be  done,  cut  a  hole 
in  the  top,  and  add  some  good  gravy  to  it. 

llilSH  STEW.  Take  five  thick  mut- 
ton <:ho|is,  or  two  pounds  off  the  neck  or 
loins;  two  |xniii(l.s  of  potatoes;  peel  them, 
and  cut  them  in  halves;  six  onions,  or  half 
a  poii  M.  I  of  onions;  peel  and  slice  them  also: 
first  put  a  layer  of  (xjtatoc*  at  the  bottom  of 
your  .-ti-wpun,  then  a  couple  of  chops  and 
he  onions ;  then  a,'  lin  potatoes,  and 
BO  on,  till  the  pan  is  quite  full;  a  M:U|| 
spoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  alxmt  one 
and  a  kill' of  salt,  anil  three  uill-  of  In-nth  or 

O,  anil   two    tca-.-poonfuls  of  mu.-lirooin 
up;   co\er  ail    very  close    i,i,  - 
prevent  the  .-learn   from   Llciliii','  out,  and  let 
them  stew  for  an    hour  and  a  half  on  a  very- 
slow  lire.      A  small  .-lice  of  ham   is  a  great 
addition  to  this  dish.     The  conk  will  U-  the 
btrt  judge  w  lien  it  is  done,  as  a  great  .!-.:! 
..u    the  liie   \.i.ilia\e.     (ireat  care 
nin.-i  !••  lakrn  not  to  let  it  burn,  and  that  it 
does  not  do  in. 

IS  I M,  LASS,  TO  CLARIFY.      Take 

an  ouiH-e  and  quarter  of  tlie  best  isinglass, 
cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and  wash  them  sev- 
eral times  in  warm  water.  Put  the  isinglass 
into  a  preserving  pan,  with  five  glasses  of 
filtered  water,  .-.-I  it  on  tin-  lire,  and,  as  goon 
as  it  boils,  place  it  at  the  side  of  the  stove, 

so  as  to  keep  up  the  boiling ;  take  off  the 


scum  directly  it  rises ;  and  when  the  whole 
is  reduced  to  three-quarters,  strain  it  through 
a  cloth  into  a  basin  for  use.  Some  add,  in 
clarifying  BWglsjBjj,  lemon-peel,  to  remove 
its  disagreeable  taste;  but  as  good  isinglass 
ought  to  have  no  flavor,  and  as  the  luinon- 
peel  is  certain  to  give  a  yellow  tinge  to  that, 
it  is  much  better  left  out. 

ITALIAN  CHEESE.  Mix  with  near- 
ly half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  su^ar,  the 
juice  of  three  lemons,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  white  wine,  and  a  quart  of  cream ;  U-at 
it  with  a  whisk  till  quite  thick,  which  may 
be  in  half  an  hour ;  put  a  bit  of  muslin  into 
a  hair  sieve,  and  jxnir  in  tlie  cream.  In 
twelve  hours  turn  it  out,  and  garnish  it  with 
flowers.  It  may  be  put  into  a  tin  shape, 
with  holes  in  it. 


ITALIAN  *IACAROONS.   Tai 

pound  of  \  alentia  or  Jordan  almonds,  I  > 
ed,  pound  them  quite  line  with  the  whites 
of  four  eggs;  add  two  (xjunds  and  a  half  of 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  rub  them  well  togeth- 
er with  the  pestle ;  put  in  by  degrees  about 
ten  or  eleven  more  whites,  working  them 
well  as  you  put  them  in ;  but  the  best,  crite- 
rion to  go  by  in  trying  their  lightness  is  to 
bake  one  or  two,  and  if  you  find  them  heavy, 
put  one  or  two  more  whites ;  put  the  mix- 
ture into  a  biscuit-funnel,  and  lay  them  out 
on  wafer-paper,  in  pieces  about  the  size  of  a 
small  walnut,  having  ready  about  two  ounces 
of  blanched  and  dry  almonds  cut  into  slips, 
put  tliree  or  four  pieces  on  each,  and  hake 
them  on  wires,  or  a  baking-plate,  in  a  slow 
oven.  Obs. — Almonds  should  IK-  blanched 
and  dried  gradually  two  or  Uiree  flays  be- 
fore they  are  used,  by  which  mea'is  they 
will  work  much  U-n-r,  and  win  •••  large 
quantities  are  used,  it  is  advised  to  grind 
them  in  a  mill  provided  for  that  purpose. 


.1. 


JAM,  APRICOT.  (1)  Weigh  equal 
quantities  of  pounded  loaf  suif.'ir  and  of  ap- 
ricots ;  pare  and  cut  them  quite  small ;  as 
they  are  done,  stn  w  over  half  of  the  sugar. 
The  following  day  Ixiil  llw;  remainder,  and 
add  the  apricots ;"  stir  it  till  it  boils,  take 
off  the  scum,  and  when  pcrtivtly  clear,  add 

part   of   the    kernels    blanched,    and    boil    it 
two  or  three  minutes. 

JAM,  APRICOT.  (2)  Allow  equal 
proportions  of  pounded  loaf  sugar  and  of 
apricots ;  pare,  and  cut  them  small ;  as  they 
are  done,  strew  part  of  Ihe  sugar  over  them, 
and  put  tlie  parings  into  cold  water.  Break 
the  stones,  blanch  and  pound  the  kernel* 


JAM 


100 


JEL 


which,  with  the  shells  and  parings,  boil  till 
halt' tin-  quantity  of  water  is  reduced,  and 
there  is  a  sufficiency  of  the  liquor,  when 
strained,  to  allow  three  or  four  table-spoon- 
fuls to  a  pound  of  apricots;  put  it,  with  the 
sugar  and  fruit,  into  a  preserving  pan  ;  mash, 
and  take  off  the  scum  ;  boil  it  quickly,  till 
transparent. 

JAM,  APRICOT,  OR  ANY   PLUM. 

After  taking  away  the  stones  from  the  apri- 
cots, and  cutting  out  any  blemishes  they 
may  have ;  put  them  over  a  slow  fire,  in  a 
clean  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  water; 
when  scalded,  rub  them  through  a  hair 
sieve:  to  every  pound  of  pulp  put  one  pound 
of  sifted  loaf  sugar;  put  it  into  a  preserving- 
pan  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  it  boils 
skim  it  well,  and  throw  in  the  kernels  of 
the  apricots,  and  half  an  ounce  of  bitter  al- 
monds, blanched;  boil  it  a -quarter  of  an 
hour  fast,  and  stirring  it  all  the  time;  re- 
move it  from  (he  (ire,  and  fill  it  into  pots, 
and  cover  them  as  directed  in  Raspbeny 
Jam.  N.  B. — Green  gages  or  plums  may 
be  done  in  the  same  way,  omitting  the  ker- 
nels or  almonds. 

JAM,  BLACK  CURRANT.  Gather 
your  currants  on  a  dry  day,  when  they  are 
lull  ripe,  pick  them  from  the  stalks,  wash 
them  well  in  a  basin,  and  to  every  pound 
of  currants,  put  a  pound  of  double  refined 
sugar,  beaten  and  sifted;  put  them  into  a 
preserving  pan,  boil  them  half  an  hour,  skim, 
and  keep  them  stirring  all  the  time:  then 
jHit  them  into  pots:  when  cold,  put  brandy 
paper  over,  and  tie  white  paper  over  all. 

JAM,  CHERRY.  Having  stoned  and 
boiled  three  pounds  of  fine  cherries,  bruise 
them,  and  let  the  juice  run  from  them ;  then 
boil  together  half  a  pound  of  red  currant 
juice,  and  half  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  put 
the  cherries  into  these  whilst  they  are  boil- 
ing, and  strew  on  them  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sifted  sugar.  Boil  all  together  very 
fast  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  put  it  into 
pots.  When  cold  put  on  brandy  papers. 

JAM,  GOOSEBERRY.  Take  what 
quantity  you  please  of  red,  rough,  ripe  goose- 
berries; take  half  their  quantity  of  lump  su- 
gar; break  them  well,  and  boil  them  to- 
gether for  half  an  hour,  of  more  if  necessa- 
ry. Put  it  into  pots,  and  cover  with  paper. 

JAM,  GOOSKBERRY,  FOR    PUDDINGS. 

Allow  equal  weight  of  tile,  red  rough  goose- 
berries, and  of  good  brown  sugar;  gather 
the  fruit  ii|x>n  a  dry  day;  top  and  tail  them, 
and  put  a  layer  alternately  of  gooseberries 
and  of  sugar  into  a  preserving  pan;  shake 
it  frequently,  skim  it  well,  and  boil  it  till 


the  sirup  jellies,  which  may  be  ascertained 
by  cooling  a  little  in  a  saucer.  Black  and 
red  currants  may  I*  done  in  this  way  for 
common  use. 

JAM,  PEACH.  Gatlier  the  peaches 
when  quite  ripe,  peel  and  stone  them,  put 
them  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  mash  them 
over  the  fire  till  hot ;  nib  them  through  a 
siexc,  and  add  to  a  pound  of  pulp  the  same 
weight  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and  pound- 
ed ;  let  it  boil  ten  or  twelve  minutes,  stir 
and  skim  it  well. 

JAM,  RASPBERRY.  Weigh  equal 
proportions  of  pounded  loaf  sugar  and  of 
raspberries ;  put  the  fruit  into  a  preserving- 
pan,  and  with  a  silver  spoon  bruise  and 
mash  it  well;  let  boil  six  minutes;  add  the 
sugar,  and  stir  it  well  with  the  fruit;  when 
it  boils,  skim  it,  and  boil  it  for  fifteen  min- 
utes. 

JAM,  STRAWBERRY.  Gather  the 
scarlet  strawberries  when  perfectly  ripe, 
bruise  them  well,  and  add  the  juice  of  other 
strawberries ;  take  an  equal  weight  of  lump 
sugar,  pound  and  sift  it,  stir  it  thoroughly 
into  the  fmit,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire;  boil 
it  twenty  minutes,  taking  off  the  scum  as  it 
rises;  pour  it  into  glasses,  or  jars,  ;uid  when 
cold,  tie  them  down. 

JAM,  WHITE  OR  RED  CURRANT. 
Pick  the  fruit  very  nicely,  and  allow  an 
equal  quantity  of  fine\y-ponnded  loaf  sugar; 
put  a  layer  of  each  alternately  into  a  preserv- 
ing pan,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes ;  or  they 
may  be  boiled  the  same  length  of  time  in 
sugar  previously  clarified  and  boiled  candy 
high. 

JAUNE  MANGE.  Boil  an  ounce  of 
isinglass  in  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  w'ater 

till  melted;  strain  it,  then  add  the  juice  of 
two  Seville  oranges,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
white  wine,  the  yolks  of  four  erjgs,  lieaten 
and  strained;  sugar  according  to  i; 
it  over  a  gentle  fire  till  it  just  boils  up:  when 
cold,  put  it  into  a  mould,  taking  care,  if 
there  should  happen  to  be  any  sediment,  not 
to  pour  it  in. 

JELLY.  To  a  quart  of  the  stock  jelly 
put  half  a  pound  of  loaf  su«rar  pounded,  a 
stick  or  two  of  cinnamon  broken  into  small 
bits,  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  a  pint  of  currant 
wine,  and  one  of  Sherry  or  Teneriffe,  and  the 
beaten  whites  of  live  eir^s ;  put  it  all  into  a 
nicely-cleaned  saucepan,  stir  it  gently  till  it. 
Ixiils,  and  boil  it  for  three  or  four  minules. 
Pour  it  into  a  jelly-bag,  with  a  basin  or  mug; 
placed,  underneath;  run  it  immediately 


JEL 


101 


JEL 


through  the  bag  again  into  another  basin, 
and  repeat  this  till  it  begins  to  drop.  It 
will  then  be  :is  transparent  an  possible,  and 
may  be  put  into  moulds  or  glasses.  When 
all  has  :ip|Mrently  dripped,  pnur  about  a 
pint  of  boiling  water  into  the  Im^,  whHi 
will  product*  a  little  thin  jelly  til  to  drink; 
the  stand  with  the  jelly-bag  should  lx-  plac- 
ed near  to  tin-  lire;  Sherry  alone,  or  Tene- 
rifTe,  may  Ix-  used.  The  jelly  may  l>e  (Hit 
into  quart  IxHtles  corked  tightly,  which  will 
nuike  it  keep  good  for  some  weeks;  place 
the  bottle  in  warm  water  when  it  is  requir- 
ed  for  use. 

JELLY,  ALE  OR  PORTER.  For  a 
large  sha|x-,  put  to  the  prepared  stock  or 
jelly,  more  than  lialf  a  Imttle  of  -iron _'  al,- 
or  porter,  a  |x>und  of  loaf  ,-iuar,  the  [xvl  of 
one,  and  die  juice  of  four  large  lemons,  a 
slick  ot'ciiuiamoii,  and  tlie  Ix-alen  whiii  -  .  •!" 
eight  e__  - ;  put  it  ail  into  a  saucepan,  stir 
it  gently;  let  it  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  and 
pour  it  into  a  jelly-bag  till  it  nuia  perfectly 
clear. 

JKJ.LV,  APPLE.  (1)  Pare,  core,  and 
cut  thirteen  good  apples  into  small  bits;  as 
they  are  cut,  throw  them  into  two  quarts 
of  cold  water;  l»>il  tlicm  in  this,  with  the 
peel  of  a  lemon,  till  die  substance  i.-  ex- 
tracted, and  nearly  half  the  liquor  wasted; 
drain  them  through  a  hair  sie\e,  and  to  a 
pint  of  tlie  liquid  add  one  pound  of  loaf  su- 
gar poiuuled,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  the 
Beaten  whites  of  one  or  two  eggs;  put  it  into 
a  saucc|>aii,  stir  it  till  it  luils,  take  olf  the 
eciun,  and  let  it  boil  till  clear,  and  then  pour 
it  into  a  mould. 

JELLY,  APPLE.  (2)  Pare  and  mince 
three  dozen  of  juicy  acid  applo,  put  them 
into  a  |i.-in.  cover  them  with  water,  and  boil 
them  till  \cry  soli;  -train  tlieia  tlirotrgh  a 
tliin  cl.ilh  or  llaimcl  \KI«;  allow  a  poinul  of 
loaf  sunar  to  a  pint  of  juice;  clarity  and 
boil  it;  add  the  apple  juice,  with  the  grated 
peel  ami  juice  of  six  lemons;  I  mil  it  for 
twenty  minutes;  lake  oil' tlie  scum  as  it  rises. 

JKLLY,  AIM'LK.  (3)  Pare  and  cut 
into  slut-  eighteen  large  acid  apples;  boil 
them  in  ;L-  much  water  as  will  <MU  i  ihi-m  ; 
when  (|nite  .-oft,  dip  a  coal  si-  cloth  into  hot 
water,  wring  it  dry,  and  strain  OK;  apples 
through  it;  to  each  pint  of  juice  allow  tour- 
teen  ounces  of  line  loaf  MI.:  o  ,  clarity  it,  and 
add,  with  the  apple  juice,  the  \ni-\  of  a  large 
lemon  ;  Ixiil  it  till  it  jellies,  \iliii-h  may  be  in 
twenty  minutes;  pick  out  the  lemon  peel, 
and  immediately  put  it  into  jars. 

JKLLY,  AfRICOT.    Take  eighteen  fine 
apricots,    let    them  be  of  a  nice   red  color, 
9* 


stone  them,  and  cut  them  in  pieces  into  some 
sirup,  (usually  made  with  twelve  ounces  of 
sugar,  but  lor  apricot  jelly  it  should  be 
rallwr  more  liquid  than  for  oilier  jellies.) 
When  the  fruit  is  done  put  it  into  a  napkin, 
to  cxpie-.-  out  all  the  juice  you  possibly  can  ; 
which  you  must  add  to  the  sirup  in  which 
tlie  apricots  have  been  done,  and  which  has 
Ixvn  previously  strained  through  a  silk  sieve, 
and  after  having  mixed  with  it  a  proper 
quantity  of  isinglass  to  thicken  it,  finish  the 
same  as  all  other  jellies. 

JELLY,  ARROW-ROOT.  Steep  for 
some  hours,  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  water, 
tlie  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  three  or  four  bitter 
almond-  |xmnded  ;  strain,  and  mix  it  with 
three  tablc-s;x>onfuU  of  arrow-root,  the  same 
quantity  of  lemon-juice,  and  one  of  lirandv; 
sweeten,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  quite 
thick,  and  when  quite  cold,  put  it  into  jelly 


JELLY,  BARBERRY.     (1)     Pick  a 

pint  ofbarlicrries,  and  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  boiling  water,  cover  it  i 
let  it  stand  till  nearly  Cold.  Set  on  the  lire 
some  clarified  siiirar  with  a  little  water, 
(making  a  quart  togetlier ;)  when  it  begins 
to  Ixiil,  .-kini  ii  well,  pui  in  die  bail»-rnes, 
let  them  Ixiil  an  hour;  squeeze,  the  juice  of 
three  lemons  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  to 
tliis,  (KISS  tin-  liquor  from  the  barberries,  and 
then  tlie  isinglass. 

JELLY,  BARBERRY.  (2)  Take  some 
very  ripe  UuU'iiitu  (what  quantity  you 
please)  and  Ix-lore  you  seed  them  lake  two 
thirds  of  their  weight  in  sn-;.ir.  Boil  your 
sugar,  then  put  your  darUnies  into  it,  and 
give  tlie  whole  a  few  Ixiilinijs,  then  pass  it 
through  a  silk  Me\.-  into  a  pan.  pre.—  iny  the 
barberries  with  a  spoon  to  extract  as  much 
juice  as  possible  from  them;  this  done,  put  it 
again  our  the  lire,  and  when  yon  perceive 
it  begins  to  Mini  the  scum,  take  it  off  and 
pour  it  into  . 

JELLY,  BKKAI)  FOR  AN  INVALID. 

Cut  the  crnm  of  a  |>eiiny  roll  into  thin  slices, 

and  to.i.-l   liieni  equally  of  a  pale  brown:  boil 

>   in  a  quart  of  water    till    it    will 

a,  which   may    be   known    by   putting  a 
in  a  .-|K«JII  to  cool;    strain   it   upon   a 
bit  of  lcmon-|xfl,  and  sweeten  it  with  sugar. 
A  little  wine  may  be  added. 

„,  JELLY  BROTH.     See  Broth. 

JELLY.  r\|  IS  FEET.  (1)  Take 
four  feet,  slit  tliem  in  two,  take  away 
die  fat  from  Ix-twcen  tlie  claws,  w.i.-h  lliem 
well  in  l.ikeu.un,  water;  then  put  tin-in  in 
a  large  slew  pan,  and  cover  them  w  ith  water: 


JEL 


102 


JEL 


when  the  liquor  boils,  skim  it  well,  and  let 
it  boil  gently  six  or  seven  hours,  that  it  may 
be  reduced  to  about  two  quarts;  then  strain 
it  through  a  sieve,  and  skim  off  all  the  oily 
substance  which  is  on  the  surface  of  the 
liquor. 

If  you  are  not  in  a  hurry,  it  is  better  to 
boil  the  calf's  feet  the  day  before  you  make 
the  jelly;  as  when  the  liquor  is  cold,  the 
oily  part  being  at  the  top,  and  the  other  be- 
ing firm,  with  pieces  of  kitchen  pa[>er  appli- 
ed to  it,  you  may  remove  every  particle  of 
the  oily  substance,  without  wasting  any  of 
the  liquor. 

Put  the  liquor  in  a  stewpan  to  melt,  with 
a  pound  of  lump  sugar,  the  peel  of  two  lem- 
ons, the  juice  of  six,  six  whites  and  shells  of 
eggs  beat  together,  and  a  bottle  of  Sherry  or 
Madeira;  whisk  the  whole  together  until  it  is 
on  the  boil;  then  put  it  by  the  side  of  the 
stove,  and  let  it  simmer  a  quarter  of  an 
hour;  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag:  what  is 
strained  first  must  be  poured  into  the  bag 
again,  until  it  is  as  bright  and  as  clear  as 
rock-water;  then  put  the  jelly  in  moulds,  to 
be  cold  and  firm :  if  the  weather  is  too  warm, 
it  requires  some  ice. 

When  it  is  wished  to  be  very  stiff,  half  an 
ounce  of  isinglass,  may  be  added  when  die 
wine  is  put  in. 

It  may  be  flavored  by  the  juice  of  various 
fruits,  spices,  &c.  and  colored  widi  saf- 
fron, cochineal,  red  beet  juice,  spinage  juice, 
claret,  &c. ;  and  it  is  sometimes  made  with 
cherry  brandy,  or  noyeau  rouge,  or  Curacoa, 
or  essence  of  punch,  instead  of  wine. 

JELLY,  CALF'S  FEET.    (2)    Take 

the  fiit  and  bones  from  eight  feet,  and  soak 
them  in  water  for  tliree  or  four  hours; 
then  boil  them  in  six  quarts  of  water,  skim- 
ming often ;  when  reduced  to  a  third,  strain 
and  set  it  by  to  cool ;  when  cold,  take  every 
particle  of  fat  from  the  top,  and  remove 
•whatever  may  have  settled  at  the  bottom. 
Dissolve  it  in  an  earthen  pan,  adding  to  it 
two  quarts  of  white  wine,  mace,  cinnamon, 
and  ginger,  or  not,  as  you  please.  Beat  up 
the  whites  of  twelve  eggs  with  three  pounds 
of  fine  sugar,  mix  these  with  the  jelly,  boil  it 
gently,  adding  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and 
thru  strain  it  for  use. 

JELLY,  CHERRY.  Take  the  stones 
and  stalks  from  two  pounds  of  fine  clear 
ripe  cherries ;  mix  them  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  red  currants,  from  which  the 
seeds  have  been  extracted;  express  the 
juice  from  these  fruits,  filter  and  mix  it  with 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of"  clarified  sugar, 
and  one  ounce  of  isinglass.  Finish  the  .sum- 
as  Barberry  jelly. 

JELLY    OF    CURRANTS,  GRAPE, 


RASPBERRY,  Are  all  made  precisely 
in  the  same  manner.  When  the  fruit  is  full 
ripe,  gather  it  on  a  dry  day:  as  soon  as  it 
is  nicely  picked,  put  it  into  a  jar,  and  covw 
it  down  very  close. 

Set  tlie  jar  in  a  saucepan  alxnit  tliree 
parts  filled  with  cold  water;  put  it  on  a  gen- 
tle fire,  and  let  it  simmer  for  about  half  an 
hour.  Take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  (xnir 
the  contents  of  the  jar  into  a  jelly-bag:  pass 
the  juice  through  a  second  time;  do  not 
squeeze  the  bag. 

To  each  pint  of  juice  add  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  very  {food  lump  sugar  pounded  ;  when 
it  is  dissolved,  put  it. into  a  preserving-pan; 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  gently;  stirring 
and  skimming  it  the  whole  time  (about  thir- 
ty or  forty  minutes),  i.  e.  till  no  more  scum 
rises,  and  it  is  perfectly  clear  anil  line: 
pour  it  while  warm  into  pots;  and  when 
cold,  cover  them  with  paper  welted  in 
brandy. 

Half  a  pint  of  this  jelly,  dissolved  in  a 
pint  of  brandy  or  vinegar,  will  give  you  ex- 
cellent currant  or  raspberry  brandy  or  vine- 
gar. 

Obs. — Jellies  from  other  fruits  are  made 
in  the  same  way,  and  cannot  1*5  preserved 
in  perfection  without  plentv  of  good  sujjav. 

Those  who  wish  jelly  to  turn  out  MTV  stiff, 
dissolve  isinglass  in  a  little  water,  strain 
through  a  sieve,  and  add  it  in  the  proportion 
of  half  :iii  ounce  to  a  pint  of  juice.  ajid  jnit 
it  in  widi  the  sugar. 

The  l>est  way  is  the  clM-apest.  Jellies 
made  with  two  small  a  proportion  of  susrar. 
require  boiling  so  long;  there  is  much  more 
waste  of  juice  and  flavor  by  e\a|x>ration  thau 
the  due  quantity  of  sugar  costs;  and  they 
neither  look  nor  taste  half  so  well. 

JELLY,  DAMSON.  To  eight  (winds 
of  damsons,  put  eight  pounds  of  fine  sugar, 
and  half  a  pint  of  water;  boil  them  for  half 
an  hour  over  a  gentle  fire,  till  the  skins 
break ;  then  take  them  off,  and  set  them  by 
for  an  hour;  set  diem  on  the  fire  again,  for 
half  an  hour  more;  set  them  by  airain  for 
the  same  time;  do  so  the  third  time;  while 
they  stand  nt}'  the  fire,  put  a  weight  upon 
them  to  keep  them  under  the  sirup.  The 
last  time,  \on  must  Ixiil  them  till  you  per- 
ceiu1  the\  are  of  a  very  high  color  in  the 
part  where  the  skin  is  broken;  then  take 
tliem  off,  set  them  by  to  cool,  and  when  they 
arc  coli!,  drain  off  the  simp,  and  make  the 
jelly  in  the  following  manner: — Boil  a  quan- 
tity of  green  apples,  green  goost-U-rries,  and 
quince  cores,  lo  a  nia.-h  ;  then  strain  them 
through  a  hair  sieve.  Take  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  this  jelly  and  the  former  sirup,  and 
boil  them  over  a  gentle  fire  together  till  they 
|t  ll\  :  skim  it  well,  and  while  it  is  hot,  put 
it  into  glasses  or  pots. 


JEL 


103 


JEL 


JELLY  FOR  ENTREMETS.  Harts- 
horn, calf's  feet,  and  isiiiglas*,  are  the  usual 
materials  used  to  coagulate  sweet  jellies;  of 
tliese  three,  tlie  latter  is  the  best,  as.  when 
properly  clarified,  (for  which  see  isinglass), 
it  is  the  clearest,  and  Ir.w  no  unpleasant 
flavor. 

JELLY  FKflT.  Clarify  half  a  pound 
of  sugar,  but  the  instant  before  it  is  quite 
clear,  put  in  a  small  quantity  of  cochineal; 
then  strain,  and  mix  with  it  an  ounce  of 
clarified  isinglass,  and  the  juice  of  two  lem- 
oiis;  add  to  this  the  fruit  of  which  your  jel- 
ly is  to  be  roni|x>sed;  stir  them  together 
lightly,  |x>nr  the  jelly  into  a  mould  quickly, 
and  |>iit  the  mould  on  ice.  Observe  I  hat  the 
sugar  and  isinglass  should  tx1  no  more  than 
lukewarm  when  mixed  together.  These 
jellies  may  lie  made  of  any  kind  of  fruit,  or 
the  grated  rinds  of  lemon,  orange,  or  ce- 
drats. 

JELLY,  GLOUCESTER.  Take  an 
«'f  i  i  i\  the  same  of  sago,  pearl-bark-\  , 
hartshoi  n-> h;i\  ings,  and  eringo  root;  sim- 
mer with  ihree  pints  of  water,  till  reduced 
to  oiid  |, int.  .-train  it.  When  cold  it  will  be 
a  jelly  ;  win  n  you  use  it,  serve  dissolved  in 
wine,  milk,  or  broth. 

JELLY.  <;ilAPE.  Take  out  the  stone?, 
tlwn  mash  the  gra|x-s  with  your  hands,  (tliey 
must  IK-  i  i|x-)  ^le.n  squeeze  tliem  through  a 
cloth  to  extract  all  the  juice  from  them,  and 
Ixiil  and  linish  the  same  98  currant  jelK. 
I'se  half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of 
fruit. 

JELL'S  .  II  \KTSHOK.N.  lioil  half  a 
pound  of  hart-horn  .-haunts  lor  three  hours 
and  a  half  in  four  pints  and  a  half  of  water; 
strain  it  through  a  hit  of  muslin,  and  stir  in- 
to it  three  ounces  of  dissolved  isingla-s  ;  if 
large,  (hi-  |x-el  of  one,  if  small,  of  two  lem- 
ons, arrl  their  juice,  half  the  |«-el  of  an  or- 
ange, iliree  pat  H  of  a  tea-cupful  of  bnindy, 
and  one  of  while  w  iue;  swee'.iMi  with  pound- 
ed loaf  sugar,  and  when  lukewarm  [Hit  it 
into  a  snuce|ian  with  the  Ixaiten  white-  c.f 
six  eggs  :  stir  it,  and  let  it  boil  tor  two  min- 
utes ;  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag  two  or 
three  limes  till  |ieifectly  clear. 

JELLY,  ORANGE.  (OSqueezethc juice 

of  eight  orange-   .mil   ,-ix  lemons,  grate  the 

peel  of  half  the  fruit,  and  steep  it  in  a  pint 

of  cold  water;  mix  it  with  the  juice,  three- 
qiiarteis  of  a  |xmnd  of  loaf  sugar,  one  ounee 
and  a  quarter  of  isinglass,  and  the  beaten 
whites  of  «4-\eu  e^s;  (Hit  it  into  a  fuuioe- 
pan,  and  stir  it  till  it  lx>il-  ;  let  it  boil  a  fe« 
minutes,  and  strain  it  through  a  jelly-Uiv  till 
clear;  put  it  into  a  mould  or  I;|;L-S.--. 


JELLY,  ORANGE.      (2)     Boil   in   a 

pint  of  water  one  ounce  and  a  quarter  of 
picked  isinglass,  the  rind  of  an  orange  cut 
thin,  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  a  lew  coriaiiders, 
and  three  ounces  of  loaf  su;;ar,  till  the  isin- 
glass is  dissolved;  then  sque<-y.e  two  Seville 
oranges  or  lemons,  and  enough  oranges  to 
make  a  pint  of  juice:  mix  all  together,  and 
strain  it  through  a  (amis  or  lawn  sieve  into 
a  basin  ;  «H  it  in  a  cold  place  for  half  an 
hour ;  pour  it  into  another  basin  free  from 
.-edimcut  ;  and  \vlieu  it  begins  to  congeal, 
till  your  mould  :  when  wanted,  dip  the 
mould  into  lukewarm  water  ;  turn  it  out  on 
a  dish,  and  garnish  with  orange  or  lemon 
cut  in  slices,  and  placed  round.  N.  B. — A 
few  grains  of  saftron  put  in  the  water  will 
add  much  to  Its  appearance. 

JEIXY,  OX-HEEL.  Slit  them  in  two. 
and  take  away  the  fat  between  the  claws. 
The  proportion  of  water  to  each  heel  is 
aljout  a  quart :  let  it  simmer  gently  for  eight 
hours  (keeping  it  clean  skimmed);  it  will 
make  a  pint  and  a  half  of  strong  jelly,  which 
is  fre  |iieiitly  used  to  make  calf's  feet  jelly, 
or  to  add  to  mock  turtle  and  otlier  soups. 

JELLY,  PEACH.  Cut  ten  or  twelve 
peaches  in  halves,  take  out  the  stones  and 
peel  them ;  set  a  pint  of  smooth  clarified  su- 
gar, diluted  with  water,  on  the  fire;  when 
it  has  boiled  and  been  skimmed,  put  in  the 
peaches,  the  kernels  should  be  broken  and 
put  in  with  them;  let  them  boil,  very  gently 
for  ten  minutes,  then  take  out  four  or  five 
i  if  i  lie  halves,  and  lay  them  on  a  plate  to  be 
in  readiness  for  garnishing  the  jelly;  let 
the  remainder  of  the  peaches  boil  for  ten 
minutes  longer;  while  they  are  Ixiiling  take 
three  lemons,  cut  off  the  rind,  squeeze  the 
juice  through  a  silk  sieve  in  a  basin,  pa«s 
i  he  liquor  of  the  |x-arlivs  into  it,  and  then 
the  isinglass,  running  it  through  the  sieve 
two  or  three  times,  in  order  to  mix  it  well; 
fill  the  mould  half  full  of  jelly,  and  v.  lieu  set. 
put  in  llie  peaches  and  a  little  more  jelly, 
and  when  tli.it  is  set,  (ill  up  the  mould. 
The  reason  why  the  lemons  are  |xvlni  lx>- 
lore  the\  are  sqnee/.ed  li>r  this  jelly  is,  that 
the  oil  in  the  rind  would  rather  sfxiil  tile  fla- 
vor of  the  jelly,  than  be  any  addition. 

JELLY,  QUINCE.  Quinces  for  jelly 
ought  not  to  be  quid*  ripe,  they  should,  how- 
ever, be  of  a  fine  yellow  color;  take  off  the 
down  which  covers  them,  quarter,  core,  put 

them  into  a  saucepan,  with  water  e i.di  to 

cover  them;  set  llw-iu  on  the  fire,  and  when 
soft,  lay  the  pieces  on  a  sieve  to  drain, 
pre— ing  them  \er\  slightly;  strain  the  li- 
quor, .oid  measure  it;  clarify,  and  Imil  to 
ensue  an  <i|iial  quantity  of  sugar;  then  take 
it  i  .If.  add  the  liqni  r  to  it,  stirring  it  well; 


JU  I 


104 


KAV 


•when  mixed,  put  it  on  the  fire,  still  stirring; 
a^  si  inn  as  the  jelly  spreads  over  the  spoon, 
and  tails  from  it  like  treacle ;  take  it  from 
the  fire,  and  when  cold,  pour  it  into  pots. 

JELLY,  RASPBERRY.  Take  two 
thirds  of  nisberries,  and  one  third  red  cur- 
rants; pick  them,  press  the  juioe  through  a 
sieve  into  a  pan,  cover,  and  place  it  in  a 
cellar,  or  any  other  cool  place  for  three  days ; 
at  the  end  of  that  time  r.iise  the  thick  skin 
formed  at  the  top,  and  pour  the  juice  into 
another  vessel:  weigh  it,  and  put  it,  with 
half  the  quantity  of  sugar,  into  a  preserving 
pan,  set  it  oil  the  fire;  a  great  deal  of  scum 
will  rise  at  first,  which  must  all  be  taken  oft ; 
leave  it  on  the  fire  for  an  hour ;  then  pour  a 
few  drops  on  a  cold  plate,  if  it  cools  of  the 
proper  consistence  for  jellies,  take  it  from 
the  fire  and  whilst  hot  pour  it  into  pots ; 
Let  the  jelly  be  quite  cold  before  the  pots  are 
covered. 

JELLY,  RUM.  Clarify,  and  boil  to  a 
sirup,  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar ;  dissolve  one 
ounce  of  isinglass  in  half  a  pint  of  water, 
strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  the  sirup  when 
it  is  half  warm,  and  when  nearly  cold,  stir 
in  a  quart  of  white  wine;  mix  it  well,  and 
add  one  or  two  table-spoonfujs  of  old  Ja- 
maica rum,  stir  it  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
pour  it  into  a  mould,  or  into  glasses. 

JELLY,  STRAWBERRY.  Put  some 
fresh-gathered  straw  lierries  into  an  earthen 
pan,  bruise  them  with  a  wooden  spoon,  add 
a  little  cold  water,  and  some  finely-pounded 
loaf  sugar.  In  an  hour  or  two,  strain  it 
through  a  jelly-bag,  and  to  a  quart  of  the 
juice  a-ld  one  ounce  of  isinglass,  which  has 
been  dissolved  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  weil- 
skiimned,  strained,  and  allowed  to  cool;  mix 
all  well,  and  pour  it  into  an  earthen  mould. 

Rasplx'irv  jelly,  red  currant  jelly,  and  red 
currants  mixed  with  raspberries,  may  be 
ii-tly  in  the  same  manner;  and  the 
bi  i^ht  red  color  may  lx;  improved  by  mixing 
in  a  litile  carmine  or  lake.  When  this  kind 
of  jelly  is  to  l)e  made  with  cherries,  the  fruit 
should  l>e  boiled  a  few  minutes  in  clarified 
sn'_;>ir,  and  when  cold,  tile  juice  of  one  or  two 
lemons  may  be  added  with  the  isinglass. 

A  little  lemon  juice  may  be  added  to  any 
of  the  other  jellies,  in  proportion  to  the  acid- 
ity of  the  fruit. 

Tliey  may  be  iced  by  covering  and  sur- 
rounding tlie  mould  with  ice,  without  any  salt. 

JUICE.  The  proportion  of  oranges 
should  be  double  that  of  lemons;  the  fruit 
beini:  selected  free  from  decay,  and  wiped 
dry,  they  are  to  be  squeezed,  and  the  juice 
strained  through  a  sie\e  into  an  earthen  pan  ; 
to  each  pint,  according  to  the  acidity  of  the 


fruit,  a  pound  and  a  half,  or  a  pound  and 
three-quarters,  of  double-refined  sugar,  bro- 
ken small,  is  to  l>e  added.  It  must  Ix-  stirred 
and  skimmed  daily,  till  the  sugar  is  well  in- 
corporated, or  as  long  as  the  scum  rises; 
and  when  it  has  been  a  month  in  the  pan,  it 
may  be  boiled. 

JUICE  OF   FRESH   FRUIT   ICED. 

Press  through  a  sieve  the  juice  of  a  pint  of 
pickled  currants  or  raspberries,  add  to  it 
four  or  five  ounces  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a 
little  lemon  juice,  and  a  pint  of  cream.  It 
may  be  whisked  previous  to  freezing,  and  a 
mixture  of  the  juice  may  be  used. 

JULIENNE.  This  soup  is  composed 
of  carrots,  turnips,  leeks,  onions,  celery,  let- 
tuce, sorrel  and  chervil ;  the  roots  are  cut  in 
thin  slips,  about  an  inch  long,  the  onions  are 
halved  and  then  sliced ;  the  lettuce  and  sor- 
rel chopped  small;  toss  lip  the  roots  in  a 
little  butter,  when  they  are  done,  add  the 
lettuces,  &c.  moisten  them  with  broth,  and 
boil  the  whole  over  a  slow  fire  for  an  hour  or 
more,  if  necessary;  prepare  some  bread  in 
the  usual  way,  and  pour  the  julienne  over  it. 

JUMBLES.  Mix  one  pound  of  fine 
flour  with  one  pound  of  fine  powder  sugar, 
make  them  into  a  light  paste  with  whites  of 
eggs  well  beaten ;  add  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  melted,  and  a 
pound  of  blanched  almonds,  pounded ;  knead 
them  all  together,  thoroughly,  with  a  little 
rose  water,  and  cut  out  the  jumbles  into 
whatever  forma  you  think  proper;  and  eith- 
er bake  them  in  a  gentle  oven,  or  fry  tliein 
in  fresh  butter;  serve  them  in  a  dish,  melt 
fresh  butter  with  a  spoonful  of  mountain,  and 
Miew  line  sugar  over  the  dish. 

JUSTICE'S  ORAJVGE  SIRUP  FOR 
PUNCH  OR  PUDDINGS.  Squeeze  the  or- 
anges, and  strain  the  juice  from  the  pulp 
into  a  large  pot;  boil  it  up  with  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  fine  sugar  to  each  pint  of  juice; 
skim  it  well;  let  it  stand  till  cold;  then 
bottle  it,  and  cork  it  well.  Obs. — This 
makes  a  fine,  soft,  mellow-flavored  punch; 
and,  added  to  melted  butter,  is  a  good  lelish 
to  puddings. 


K. 

KAVIA.  Take  the  hard  roes  of  several 
sturgeon,  and  lay  them  in  a  tub  of  water; 
take  away  all  the  fibres  as  you  would  from 
a  calf's  brains,  then,  with  a  whisk,  beat  the 
rocs  in  the  water,  shaking  off  from  the  whisk 
whatever  fibres  may  be  adhering  to  it;  then 
lay  the  roes  on  sieves  for  a  short  time ;  after 


KID 


105 


KIS 


which  put  tin-in  into  fresh  water  again ;  and 
continue  to  whip  tlietn,  ami  change  tin-  wa- 
ter,  until  the  roes  are  perfectly  cleansed  anil 
free  from  lilnv;  lay  them  on  sieves  tn  drain, 
season  them  \\i-ll  with  salt  and  |x-pper; 
wrap  them  in  a  coarse  cloth,  tun;;  them  up 
like  a  ball,  and  let  them  drain  thus  till  tin- 
next  day,  when  serve  tliem  with  fried  bread, 
and  shallots  chopped  small.  If  they  are  to 
be  kt-pt  in-  sometime,  put  more  silt  to  tlirin. 

K KNOBBED  VEAL.     See  Veal. 
KELLY'S  SAUCE.     See  Sauce. 

KERRY  BUTTER  MILK.  Put  six 
quart*  of  butter-milk  into  a  cheese  cloth, 
hang  it  in  a  cool  place,  and  let  the  wliey 
drip  from  it  lor  two  or  three  days;  when  it 
is  rather  thick,  put  it  into  a  brain,  sweeten 
it  with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  add  a  glass 
of  brandy,  or  of  sweet  wine,  and  as  much 
rosplxjrry  j mi,  or  sirup,  as  will  color  and 
give  it  an  agreeable  flavor.  Whisk  it  well 
togeth  it  in  a  glass  dish. 

KI.K  1111',  ENGLISH.  Peel  ten 
clo\<-<  of  garlic,  bruise  them,  and  put  them  in- 
to a  quart  of  white  wine  vinegar;  takeai|iiart 
of  white  I'oii,  put  it  ou  the  lire,  and  wlien  it 
boils,  put  in  twelve  or  fourteen  anchovies, 
washed  and  cut  in  pieces;  let  them  simmer 
in  the  wine  till  they  are  dissolved;  when 
cold,  put  i in-ill  to  the  vinegar;  then  take 
half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  put  into  it 
some  :  ginger  sliced,  a  i,-\\ 

a  spoonful  of  whole  pepper  bruised ;  let  them 
boil  a  little;  when  almost  cold,  slice  ill  a 
whole  nutmeg,  and  some  lemon-peel,  with 
two  or  tliri-<-  spoonfuls  of  horse-radish ;  add 
it  to  it  close,  and  stir  it  once 

or  tv.  Keep  it  close  stopped  up. 

See  Mushroom  Ketchup. 

Ki:\V  MIXC'E.  Cut  a  pound  of  meat 
from  i  ..asted  mutton,  and  mince 

it  v  i her   with  six  oun 

suet,'  mix  wilii  ii  three  or  four  iablc->|»x>n- 
fuls  of  cnimlis  of  bread,  the  Ix-aU-n  yolks  of 
lour  i-^<,  one  anchovy  chopped,  some  pep- 
per and  -,iii,  and  half  a  pint  of  1'ort  wine; 
put  it  into  a  c.iul  of  veal,  and  bake  it  in  a 
quick  oven  ;  turn  it  out  into  a  dish,  and  |>' .in- 
some  brown  »ra\y  our  it;  serve  with  it 
'•e.  Wlien  a  \i-al  caul  is  not  to 
be  had,  the  mince,  may  be  done  in  a  sauce- 
pan. 

KID.  Kid  is  good  eating  uhen  it  is  but 
tin..'  or  lour  months  old,  its  flesh  \»  then 
delicate  ami  tender,  but  is  not  used  after  it 

To  be  good,  it  in- 

i  and  -AIM--.     It  is  dressed  in  the  sunic 
manner  as  lamb  or  fawn. 


KIDNEYS.  Cut  them  through  the  long 
way,  score  them,  and  sprinkle  them  over 
with  a  little  jtcpjxT  and  salt;  in  order  to 
broil  all  over  alike,  and  to  keep  them  from 
curling  on  the  gridiron,  run  a  wire  skewer 
riijht  through  them.  They  must  lie  broiled 
OM-I-  a  clear  fire,  being  careful  to  turn  them 
frequently  till  they  are  done;  they  will  take 
alxnit  ten  or  twelve  minutes  broiling,  provi- 
ded they  are  done  over  a  brisk  fire ;  or,  if 
MJII  choose,  you  may  fry  them  in  butter,  and 
make  gravy  for  them  in  the  [Kin  (after  the 
kidm-vsare  taken  out),  by  putting  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour;  as  soon  as  it  looks  brown, 
put  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  as  will 
make  gravy ;  they  will  take  five  minutes 
longer  frying  than  broiling.  Garnish  with 
fried  parsley:  you  may  improve  them  if  you 
think  pr<>|X'r,  by  chopping  a  few  jxirsley 
leaves  very  fine,  mix  them  with  a  bit  of  fresh 
butter,  and  a  little  pepper  and  Kilt,  and  then 
put  some  of  this  mixture  over  each  kidney. 

KISSES.  (1)  Put  the  whites  of  ei-ht 
eggs,  and  two  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower 
water,  into  a  China  basin,  and  whisk  till 
they  become  a  firm  froth,  then  add  half  a 
IHiiiiid  of  sifted  sugar,  stir  it  in  with 
care  by  means  of  a  spatula:  that  done,  lay 
small  pieces  of  this  mixture  on  white  |>aper; 
make  each  drop  about  the  size  of  a  ratafia, 
rather  conical  than  flat;  place  the  paper 
which  contains  them  on  a  piece  of  wood 
about  an  inch  thick,  and  put  them  in  a  very 
hot  oven:  watch  them,  and  as  soon  as  you 
\e  they  begin  to  look  yellowish,  take 
tliem  out,  and  detach  them  MB  tin;  |>aper 
with  a  knife  as  cautiously  as  possible,  fo» 
lliey  are  very  tender.  Take  a  small  s[x>on, 
and  with  die  end  of  it  remove  tlie  moist  part, 
which  is  at  the  bottom,  so  as  to  make  tliem 
a  little  hollow,  and  as  you  do  tic 
on  the  paper,  the  hollow  side  upwards;  put 
them  on  tin;  wood  into  the  ou-n  again  for  a 
few  minutes  to  dry;  when  done,  I. iy  tliem 
in  boxes,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  and  warm 
place.  If  they  are  for  table,  fill  the  hollow 
nil  a  little,  whip) nil  cream  or  rasp- 
IK-ITV  jam;  put  them  together  by  couples, 
the  cream  or  jam  inside;  place  them  in  a 
di-h,  and  serve  them  as  soon  as  po- 

KISSKS.  (2)  One  pound  of  the  best  loaf 
sujjar,  powdervd  and  sifted.  Tin-  whites  of 
four  Ogge.  Twelve  dr»|*i  of  essence  of  |i-ui- 
on.  A  tea-cup  of  em-ram  ji -IK.  IVal  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  till  th«-\  -t:unl  alone. 
Then  beat  in,  gradually,  UK:  sugar,  a  tea- 
spoonful  at  a  time.  Add  tlie  essence  of  lem- 
on, and  U-at  tlie  whole  very  hard.  Lay  a 
wet  shcvt  of  |Ki|xTon  tin- 1*. itoin  ofa  square 
tin  pan.  Drop  on  it,  at  equal  distances,  a 
sin. ill  tea-epoonful  of  stifi'  currant  jelly. 
With  a  large  spoou,  pile  some  of  the  beaten 


LAM 


106 


LAM 


white  of  egg  and  sugar,  on  each  lump  of 
jelly,  so  as  to  cover  it  entirely.  Drop  on 
the  mixture  as  evenly  as  possible,  so  ;LS  to 
make  tin:  kisses  of  a  round  smooth  shape. 
Set  thciii  in  a  cool  oven,  and  as  soon  as 
they  are  colored,  they  are  done.  Then  take 
them  out  and  place  them  two  bottoms  to- 
gether. Lay  them  lightly  on  a  sieve,  and 
dry  them  in  a  cool  oven,  till  the  two  bot- 
toms stick  fast  together,  so  as  to  form  one 
ball  or  oval. 

KNUCKLES.     See  the  several  meats 
to  which  they  belong. 


LAMB.  The  fore  quarter  of  lamb  con- 
sists of  the  shoulder,  the  neck,  and  the 
breast  together;  the  hind  quarter  is  the  leg 
and  loin.  There  are  also  the  head  and 
pluck,  the  fry  or  sweetbreads,  skirts,  lamb- 
stones,  and  liver.  In  choosing  the  fore 
quarter,  the  vein  in  the  neck  should  be  rud- 
dy, or  of  a  bluish  color.  In  the  hind  quar- 
ter, the  knuckle  should  feel  stiff,  the  kidney 
small,  and  perfectly  fresh.  To  keep  it,  the 
joints  should  be  carefully  wiped  every  day, 
and  in  warm  weather,  sprinkled  with  a  lit- 
tle pepper.  The  fore  quarter  is  the  prime 
joint,  and  should  be  roasted  and  basted 
with  butter ;  the  gravy  is  made  as  for  beef 
or  mutton.  Mint  sauce  is  served  in  a  sauce 
tureen,  and  half  a  lemon  is  sent  to  table 
with  it,  the  juice  of  which  is  squeezed  upon 
the  ribs  after  die  shoulder  is  cut  off,  and 
thoj  have  been  sprinkled  with  salt.  If  the 
jeunt  weighs  five  pounds,  it  will  require  to 
be rVoasted  one  hour;  if  ten  pounds,  one  hour 
and  three-quarters.  The  hind  quarter  may 
be  roasted,  or  the  leg  of  it  boiled.  The 
loin  is  then  cut  into  steaks,  fried,  and  serv- 
ed round  it ;  the  outside  bones  being  cover- 
ed with  a  fringe  of  fried  parsley.  A  dish 
of  spinach  is  generally  served  with  the 
lamb. 

LAMB,  Is  a  delicate,  and  commonly 
considered  tender  meat ;  but  those  who  talk 
of  tender  lamb,  while  they  are  thinking  of 
the  age  of  the  animal,  forget  that  even  a 
chicken  must  be  kept  a  proper  time  after  it 
has  been  killed,  or  it  will  be  tough  picking. 
To  the  usual  accompaniments  of  roasted 
meat,  green  mint  sauce,  and  a  salad,  is  com- 
monly added;  and  some  cooks,  about  five 
minutes  before  it  is  done,  sprinkle  it  with  a 
little  fresh  gathered  and  finely  minced  pars- 
ley. -  Lamb,  and  all  young  meats,  ought  to  be 
thoroughly  done;  therefore  do  not  take  either 
lamb  or  veal  off  the  spit  till  you  see  it  drop 
white  gravy.  When  green  mint  cannot  be 


got,  mint  vinegar  is  an  acceptable  substitute 
for  it ;  and  crisp  parsley  on  a  side  plate,  is 
an  admirable  accompaniment. 

Hind-Quarter,  Of  eight  pounds,  will 
take  from  an  hour  and  three-quarters  to  two 
hours:  baste  and  froth  it.  The  li-<r  and 
the  loin  of  lamb,  when  little,  should  be 
roasted  together ;  the  former  being  lean,  the 
latter  fat,  and  the  gravy  is  better  prr.-ir\Ml. 

Fare-Quarter,  Often  pounds,  about  two 
hours.  It  is  a  pretty  general  custom,  when 
you  take  off  the  shoulder  from  the  ribs,  to 
squeeze  a  Seville  orange  over  them,  and 
sprinkle  them  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt. 
This  may  as  well  be  done  by  the  cook  be- 
fore it  comes  to  table;  some  people  are  not 
remarkably  ex|>ert  at  dividing  these  joints 
nicely. 

Leg,  Of  five  pounds,  from  an  hour  to  an 
hour  and  a  half. 

Shoulder,  With  a  quick  fire,  an  hour. 

Ribs,  About  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a 
quarter:  joint  it  nicely,  crack  the  ribs  across, 
and  divide  them  from  the  briskut  after  it  ia 
roasted. 

Loin,  An  hour  and  a  quarter. 

Neck,  An  hour.  QQ 

Breast,  Three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

LAMB  BREAST.  Cut  it  into  pieces, 
and  stew  it  in  a  weak  stock,  with  a  ^lass 
of  Port  wine;  add  pepper  and  salt.  \\  hen 
it  is  perfectly  tender,  thicken  the  sauce 
with  butter  and  flour.  Have  ready  cucum- 
bers stewed  in  gravy,  put  them  over  the 
lamb  before  serving.  A  bre:ist  of  mutton 
may  be  served  in  the  same  way. 

LAMB   CHOPS   BROILED.      Cut  a 

loin  or  best  end  of  the  neck  into  chops,  flat- 
ten them,  and  cut  off  the  fat  and  skin;  rub 
the  gridiron  with  a  little  fat,  and  broil  them 
on  a  clear  fire.  Turn  them  with  steak  tongs, 
till  quite  done.  Serve  them  hot. 

LAMB  CHOPS.  Cut  a  neck  or  loin  of 
lamb  into  chops;  rub  them  over  with  the 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg;  dip  them  into  Crated 
bread,  mixed  with  plenty  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  season  with  lemon-peel,  pepper, 
and  salt;  fry  them  alight  brown  in  good 
dripping;  make  a  sauce  with  the  trimming*, 
and  thicken  the  sauce  with  butter  rolled  in 
flour;  add  a  little  lemon  pickle  and  mush- 
room ketchup.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley. 
They  may  be  served  with  or  without  the 
gravy. 

LAMB  CUTLETS.  Cut  the  cutlets  off 
the  loin,  into  round  bits ;  trim  off  the  fat  and 
skin ;  dip  them  into  the  beaten  yolk  of  an 
egg,  and  then  into  bread  crumbs,  mixed 
with  minced  parsley,  grated  nutmeg,  and 
lemon-peel,  pepper,  and  salt.  Fry  them  a 


LAM 


107 


LAR 


light  brown  in  clarified  beef  suet;  drain 
them  on  the  bark  of  a  sieve  before  the  fire. 
Serve  llx-m  with  melted  butter  with  a  little 
lemon  pickle  in  it,  or  a  brown  sauce  thick- 
ened. Garnish  with  cut  lemon. 

LAMB     DRESSED     WITH    RICE. 

Half  roast  a  small  lore  quarter  of  lamb;  cut 
it  into  steaks,  season  thorn  with  a  little  salt 
and  pepper;  lay  them  into  a  dish,  and  pour 
in  a  little-  water.  Boil  a  pound  of  rice 
with  a  blade  or  two  of  mace;  strain  it,  and 
stir  in  a  good  piece  of  fresh  butter,  and  a 
little  salt,  add  also  the  greater  part  of  the 
yolk*  i if  four  eggs  beaten;  cover  the  lamb 
with  the  rice,  and  with  a  feather  put  over 
it  the  remainder  of  the  beaten  egifs.  Bake 
it  in  an  men  till  it  has  acquired  a  light 
brown  color. 

LAMB  FEET.     Clean,  well  wash,  and 
blanch  six  lamb's  feet;  stew  them,  till  they 
'••iider,  in  some  white  stock,  with  a 
Klice  dt   lean  ham,  one  onion,  some  parsley, 
1  !  \vo  blades  of  mace,  a  little  whole 

pepper,  and  a  few  mushrooms.  Before 
serving,  strain  die  sauce  ;  thicken  it  with 
flour  a|d  butter,  and  half  a  pint  of  crram; 
boil  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  add  the  feet 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  small  lemon.  Gar- 
nish with  sip|N-U<  of  thin  toasted  bread,  cut 
into  a  three-cornered  shape. 

LAMB  FRY.      Fry  it  plain,  or  dip  it 
:  well  beaten  on  a  plate,  and  strew 
some  line  -t:i!e  bread-crumbs  over   it;    gar- 
nish with  crisp  parsley. 

LAMB,  LEG  OF,  BOILED.     It  should 

in  a  cluth,  that  it  may  look  as 
l>ossible.  Cut  the  loin  in  steaks, 
dip  them  in  egg,  strew  them  over  with 
bread-numbs,  and  fry  them  a  nice  brown, 
serve  theai  round  the  di.-h,  and  garnish  with 
dried  or  fried  parsley ;  serve  with  spinach 
to  eat  with  it. 

LAMB  PIE,  THE  GERMAN'  WAY. 
Cut  a  quarter  of  lamb  into  pieces,  and  lard 
•MB  With  small  lardons  of  IKICO;.. 
ed  with  salt,  pepper,  cloves,  nutmeg,  and  a 
Ixiy-li-af;  add  fat  bacon  pounded,  small  on- 
ious,  iiutiiie^.  and  sweet  herbs;  put  these 
into  the  pie,  and  let  it  bake  for  three  hours ; 
when  l>aki-d,  cut  it  open,  skim  oft'  all  tin- 
fat,  |x)iir  in  a  ragout  of  oysters,  and  serve 
hot. 

LA  M  B  PIE,  A  SAVORY  ONE.      Cut 

the  meat    into   pieces,  and   season    it   with 

pep|»-r.    salt,    mace,   cloves,    and    nutmeg, 

'••  .      M  ike   a   good    puff  paste 

..it.,    it,  with   a   few 

.no    and    sweetbreads,  seasoned 


the  same  as  the  meat.  Then  put  in  gome 
oysters  and  forcemeat  balls,  the  yolks  of 
hard  e^<;s,  and  the  tops  of  asparagus,  about 
two  inches  long,  first  boiled  green.  Put 
Ixittor  all  over  the  pie,  put  on  the  lid,  and 
let  it  bake  tor  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  quick 
oven.  In  the  meantime,  take  a  pint  of  gra- 
vy, the  oyster  liquor,  a  gill  of  red  wine,  and 
a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Mix  all  together 
with  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs,  finely 
beaten,  and  keep  stirring  it  tlie  same  way 
all  the  time.  When  it  boils,  pour  it  into 
the  pie,  put  on  die  lid  again,  and  serve  it  to 
table. 

LAMB,  TO   ROAST   OR  BOIL.     A 

quarter  of  an  hour  is  generally  allowed  to 
each  pound  of  meat ;  a  leg  of  lamb  of  five 
pounds  will  therefore  take  an  hour  and  a 
quarter  to  roast  or  boil,  the  other  joints  in 
the  same  proportion ;  serve  either  with  sa- 
lad, pickles,  brocoli,  cauliflowers,  string 
beans,  pease,  potatoes,  or  cucumbers,  raw 
or  stewed. 

LAMB  SHOULDER,  GRILLED.  Boil 
it ;  score  it  in  chequers  about  in  inch  square, 
nib  it  over  with  die  yolk  of  an  egg,  pepper 
and  salt  it,  strew  it  with  bread-cnimbs  and 
dried  par.-ley,  or  sweet  lierlw,  and  carbo- 
nado, i.  e.  grill,  i.  e.  broil  it  over  a  clear 
fire,  or  put  it  in  a  Dutch  oven  till  it  is  a 
nice  light  brown ;  send  up  some  graw  with 
it,  or  make  a  sauce  for  it  of  flour  and  water 
well  mixed  together  with  an  ounce  of  fresh 
butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  or 
walnut  ketchup,  and  die  juice  of  half  a  lem- 
on. See  Grill  sauce.  Breasts  of  lamb 
are  often  done  in  the  same  way,  and  with 
mushroom  or  mutton  sauce. 

LAMB  STEAKS  FRIED.  Fry  them 
of  the  nicest  brown;  when  served,  throw 
over  them  a  good  quantity  of  crumbs  of 
bread  fried,  and  crisped  parsley.  Or  you 

may  season  them  and  broil  tlu'in  in  buttered 
papers,  either  with  crumbs  and  herbs,  or 
without,  according  to  ta.-te. 

LARD,  HOG'S.  The  lard  should  be 
carefully  niched  in  a  jar,  put  into  a  kettle 
qfMter,  and  boiled;  nm  it  into  bladders 
IM:  brt-u  particularly  well  cleaned. 
Ivv  best  to  have  tlie  bladders  small,  as  toe 
lard  will  keep  better,  for,  after  the  air 
reaches  it,  it  becomes  rank.  Whilst  it  is 
melting,  put  in  a  sprig  of  rosemary.  This 
being  a  very  useful  article  in  frying  fish,  it 
should  lie  prepared  with  great  care.  Mix- 
ed with  baiter,  it  makes  a  fine  crust. 

LARKS.  These  delicate  little  birds  are 
in  high  season  in  November.  Wtan  they 
arc  thoroughly  picked,  gutted,  and  cleansed, 


LEI 


108 


LEM 


truss  them;  do  diem  over  with  the  yolk  of 
egg,  and  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs ; 
8j>it  them  on  a  lark  spit,  and  fasten  that  on 
to  a  larger  spit,  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  will 
lx>  sufficient  time  to  roast  them  in  before  a 
quick  lire;  whilst  they  are  roasting,  baste 
them  with  fresh  butter,  and  sprinkle  them 
with  bread-crumbs  till  they  are  well  cover- 
ed with  them.  Fry  some  grated  bread  in 
butter,  set  it  to  drain  before  the  fire,  that  it 
may  harden.  Serve  the  crumbs  in  the  dish 
under  the  larks,  and  garnish  with  slices  of 
lemon. 

LAVENDER  DROPS.  Fill  a  quart 
bottle  with  the  blossoms  of  lavender,  and 
pour  on  it  as  much  brandy  as  it  will  contain ; 
let  it  stand  ten  days,  then  strain  it,  and  add 
of  nutmeg  bruised,  cloves,  mace,  and  cochi- 
neal, a  quarter  of  an  ounce  each,  and  bot- 
tle it  for  use.  In  nervous  cases,  a  little  may- 
be taken  dropped  on  a  bit  of  sugar;  and  in 
the  beginning  of  a  bowel  complaint,  a  tea- 
spoonful,  taken  in  half  a  glass  of  pepper- 
mint water,  will  often  prove  efficacious. 

LAVENDER  WATER.  Put  into  a 
large  bottle,  eight  ounces  of  the  best  recti- 
fied spirits  of  wine,  three  drachms  of  oil  of 
lavender,  one  drachm  of  essence  of  ainlier- 
gris,  and  threepence-worth  of  musk  ;  cork 
it  tightly,  and  shake  it  well  every  day,  for 
a  fortnight  or  three  weeks. 

LEAVES,  TO  GREEN,  FOR  ORNA- 
MENTING FRUIT.  Take  small  leaves 
of  a  pear-tree,  keep  them  close  stopped  in 
a  pan  of  verjuice  and  water,  give  them  a 
boil  in  some  sirup  of  apricots;  put  them  l>e- 
tween  two  pieces  of  glass  to  dry;  smooth 
and  cut  them  into  the  shape  of  apricot- 
leaves  (the  leaves  should  be  procured  with 
stalks) ;  stick  them  alwut  the  apricots  or 
any  other  preserved  fruit;  but  the  leaves 
must  be  cut  in  the  shape  of  the  leaf  which 
belongs  to  the  fruit  you  ornament. 

LEEKS.  Leeks  are  most  generally  used 
for  soups,  ragouts,  and  other  made  dishes, 
they  are  very  rarely  brought  to  table ;  in 
which  case  dress  them  as  follows: — Put 
tin-in  into  the  stock-pot  till  about  three  parts 
done;  then  take  them  out,  drain,  and  soak 
them  in  vinegar  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  cloves;  drain  them  again,  stuff  the 
hearts  with  afarce,  dip  them  in  batter,  and 
fry  them. 

LEIPZEGER  PANCAKES.  Beat  well 
the  whites  of  four,  and  the  yolks  of  eight 
fresh  eggs,  and  add,  by  degrees,  half  a 
pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  sweet  cream  just  warmed,  half  a 
pound  of  clarified  fresh  butter,  two  table- 


spoonfhls  of  fresh  yeast,  and  a  wine-glass  fall 
nt  spirits  i >f  wine ;  then  mix  in  as  much  sifted 
(lour  as-  will  make  it  into  a  thick  butter; 
let  it  rise  for  half  an  hour ;  roll  it  out  thin ; 
cut  it  into  rounds  or  oblong  pieces,  and  lay 
on  them  jam  or  marmalade;  double  them, 
and  let  them  stand  again  to  rise,  and  fry 
them  in  boiling  fresh  lard  or  butter. 

LEMONADE.  To  a  gallon  of  spring 
water  add  some  cinnamon  and  cloves,  plen- 
ty of  orange  and  plenty  of  lemon-juice,  and 
a  bit  of  the  peel  of  each  ;  sweeten  well  with 
loaf  sugar,  and  whisk  it  with  the  whites  of 
six  eggs,  and  the  yolk  of  one;  give  it  a  boil, 
and  then  let  it  simmer  for  ten  minutes ;  then 
run  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  and  let  it  stand 
till  cold,  before  it  is  drank. 

LEMONADE  TRANSPARENT.   The 

peel  of  fourteen  lemons  having  been  soaked 
in  two  quarts  of  water  for  two  hours,  their 
juice,  one  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  and  a 
quart  of  white  wine,  are  to  be  added ;  a 
quart  of  new  milk,  made  boiling  hot,  is  then 
to  be  mixed  with  it,  and  when  it  has  stood 
an  hour,  it  is  to  be  strained  through  a  jelly- 
bag  till  it  rung  clear. 

LEMON  BONBONS.  Take  two  pounds 
of  the  best  lump  sugar,  clarify  and  boil  it  to 
caramel;  but  just  Ix'fore  it  reaches  that 
point,  grate  the  rind  of  a  lemon  and  put  in 
it;  in  the  meanwhile  molt  a  little  butter; 
skim,  and  pour  it  off  clear;  take  a  spoonful 
of  this  butter,  and  nib  it  with  your  hand  over 
a  copperplate  or  marble  slab,  on  which  pour 
the  caramel  sugar:  then  have  a  sword  blade, 
take  an  end  in  each  hand,  and  impress  lines 
in  the  sugar  about  an  inch  apart ;  then  im- 
press similar  lines  across  tile  first,  so  as  to 
form  small  cakes ;  this  operation  should  be 
performed  as  quicklv  as  possible,  lest  the 
sugar  should  cool  before  the  whole  is  mark- 
ed ;  when  however  all  is  done,  pass  the 
blade  carefully  between  the  sugar  and  the 
slab,  lay  it  on  sheets  of  white  paper,  and 
when  perfectly  cold,  separate  the  bonbons, 
and  wrap  each  in  paper;  keep  them  in  a 
dry  place. 

LEMON  BRANDY.  Three  quarts  of 
brandy  being  put  into  an  earthen  jar  that  is 
fitted  with  a  cover,  a  pound  and  three-quar- 
ters of  fine  loaf  sugar,  the  thin  parings  of 
six  lemons,  and  the  juice  of  twelve,  are  to 
be  added ;  one  quart  of  boiling  milk  is  to  be 
poured  over  the  mixture,  which  must  be 
stirred  daily  for  eight  days;  it  is  then  to  be 
run  through  a  jelly-bag  and  bottled. 

LEMON  CHEESECAKES.  Boil  the 
peel  of  two  large  lemons  till  they  are  quite 
tender,  and  then  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar, 


LEM 


109 


I.  KM 


with  four  or  five  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  tin: 
yolks  of  six  eg<{s,  Imlf  a  |H>iiud  of  fre>h  but- 
ter, anil  :i  little  curd  lieaten  line:  pound  and 
mix  altogether,  lay  a  rich  aaff  paste  in  some 
pum-pans,  till  tlicin  h.ilf  full,  and  bake  them 
carefully. 

LK.MON  <  'I  I KKSKCAKES.  Mix  four 
ounces  of  sifted  luiup  sugar,  and  tour  ounces 
of  Imtier  together,  and  gently  melt  it;  then 
add  the  yolks  of  two,  and  the  white  of  one 
egg.  the  rind  of  three  lemons  shred  tine,  and 
the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  a  half,  one  sa- 
vory  biscuit,  some  lilanrlu'd  almonds,  pound- 
ed, three  spoonfuls  of  hrandv ;  mix  the 
whole  well  together,  and  [Kit  it  to  paste 
made  with  the  following  ingredients:  eight 
ounces  of  (lour,  .-ix  ounces  of  butter,  two- 
thirds  of  which  mast  be  mixed  with  the 
flour  lirst;  then  wet  it  with  six  spoonfuls  of 
water,  and  roll  in  the  remainder  of  the  but- 
ter. 

LF.Mc>\  ( 'HIPS.  Take  large  sroooth- 
rindi  d  Mala-. i  lemons;  race  or  cut  off  their 
peel  into  clii|is  with  a  small  knife  (this  will 
require  .-..in,-  pnriiii;  to  do  it  properly)  ; 
throw  them  into  >alt  and  water  till  next 
day;  ha\e  rcadv  a  pan  of  Imiling  water, 
throw  ihejii  in  and  Uiil  them  tender.  Drain 
them  well:  after  having  lain  sometime  in 
water  to  cool,  put  them  in  an  earthen  pan, 
pour  over  enough  U>iling  clarified  sugar  to 
cover  them,  and  then  let  them  lie  two  days  ; 
ih.  .1  -train  the  sirup,  put  more  sugar,  and 
reduce  it  by  lulling  till  tlie  sirup  is  <|r.iite 
thick;  put  in  the  chips,  and  simmei-  them  a 
few  minutes,  and  net  tliem  by  lor  two  days: 
repeat  it  owe  more ;  let  them  be  two  days 
longer,  and  they  will  ix-  lit  to  candy,  which 
MIII.-I  !«•  done  as  1'ollows:  lake  four  pints  of 
cLirilied  sugar,  which  will  \*>  sufficient  for 
six  poiin<b<  of  chips,  boil  it  to  the  degree  of 
blown  (which  may  lie  known  by  dipping  tin; 
skimmer  into  ihe. sugar,  and  blow  inn  Mroug- 
ly  through  the  holes  of  it;  if  little  bladders 
appear,  it  |I;LS  attained  that  degree);  and 
when  the  chips  are  thoroughly  drained  ami 
wi|M-.|  on  a  clean  cloth,  put  them  into  UK; 
sirup,  siiirin','  them  almut  with  the  skimmer 
tiil  you  see  die  sugar  liecoine  white;  then 
take  them  out  with  two  forks;  shake  them 
light!}  into  a  wire  sieve,  and  set  them  into 
.r  in  a  w  ai  in  plai-e  to  dry.  Orange 
•  •  done  in  tiw;  same  way. 

1 . 1! M « ) \  r.SS I : \ CE.  Rasp  your  lem- 
onu  all  round,  v<-ry  thin,  anil  for  every  Cur- 
ler of  a  pniiiid  of  rind,  allow  one  poOOO  of 
sugar;  mix  it  well  with  a  large  spadille  till 
you  find  it  i.-  all  of  the  same  color,  and  that 
tile  rind  is  well  mixed  ;  put  it  into  a  stone 
jar,  and  pr< -.-.-  i:  .|..wn  as  hard  as  you  can; 
put  a  bladder  over  the  pa|*-r  you  cover  with, 
10 


and  tie  it  over  quite  tight;  put  it  by,  and  in 
a  month's  time  it  will  be  fit  for  use'. 

LEMO.N    JUICE    TO    PRESERVE. 

Squeeze,  and  strain  a  pint  of  lemon-juice; 
put  into  a  China  ba.-in  one  pound  of  duiihle- 
relincd  sugar  finely  |x>unded  and  sifted,  add 
the  lemon-juice,  and  stir  it  with  a  silver 
spoon  till  the  sugar  be  perfectly  dissolved. 
Bottle  it,  and  cork  it  tightly  ;  seal  the  cork, 
or  tie  bladder  over  it,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry 
cool  place. 

LEMON  MARMALADE.  Allow  to  a 
pound  of  lemons  eighteen  ounces  of  tine 
iosif  sugar;  grate  the  rind  of  a  few;  cut 
them  into  half;  squeeze  and  strain  the  juice ; 
boil  the  skins  in  the  same  way  as  those 
of  the  orange  skins  are  done;  scoop  out  the 
pulp  and  white  part;  cut  half  into  thin  chips 
or  parings,  and  pound  the  other  half  in  a 
mortar ;  pound  the  sugar,  and  pour  over  it 
the  juice;  stir,  and  let  it  boil  for  five  min- 
utes; skim  it;  take  it  ofTthe  fire;  put  in  the 
parings  and  the  pounded  skins;  boil  it  for 
five  minutes,  i  hen  add  the  grated  peel,  and  let 
it  l»il  for  five  minutes  more  ;  take  it  off,  and 
stir  it  till  half  cold,  before  putting  it  into  jars. 

I. KMON  MINCE  PIES.  Squeeze  out 
the  juice  from  a  large  lemon ;  boil  the  out- 
side till  sufficiently  tender  to  beat  to  a  mash, 
add  to  it  three  large  apples  chopped,  and 
four  ounces  of  suet,  half  a  pound  of  currants, 
four  ounces  of  sugar;  put  the  juice  of  the 
lemon,  and  add  candied  fruit,  the  same  as 
("i-  other  pies.  Make  a  short  crust,  and  fill 
lite  patty-pans  in  the  usual  manner. 

LEMON-PEEL   ESSENCE.       Wash 

and  brush  clean  the  lemons ;  let  them  get 
l»-i  fee  tly  dry:  take  a  lump  of  loaf  sugar,  and 
ruli  iii. -m  till  all  the  yellow  rind  is  taken  up 
by  the  Migar:  scrape  off  tlie  surface  of  the 
sugar  into  a  preserving  pot,  and  press  it 
hard  down ;  cover  it  very  close,  and  it  will 
keep  r.r  sometime. 

I.KMON-PEEL  QUINTESSENCE. 
Best  oil  of  lemon,  one  drachm,  strongest 
rectified  spirit,  two  ounces,  introduced  by 
deOM  till  tha  spirit  kills,  and  completely 

h  tl il.     This  elegant  prepara- 

tion  possesses  all  the  delightful  fragrance  and 
flavor  of  the  freshest  lemon-peel.  Obs. — A 
few  drops  on  tlie  sugar  you  make  punch  with 
will  instantly  impregnate  it  with  as  much 
ll.ivor  a-  the  troublesome  and  tedious  meth- 
od of  grating  the  rind,  or  rubbing  the  sugar 
on  il.  It  will  lie  found  a  superlative  sub- 
stitute for  fresh  lemon-peel  lor  every  purpose 
tiiat  it  is  used  for:  blancmange,  jellies,  cus- 
tards, ice,  negus,  lemonade,  and  pies  and  pud- 
dings', stuffings,  soups,  sauces,  ragouts,  &c. 


LEM 


110 


LEM 


LEMON-PEEL  TINCTURE.  A  very 
easy  and  economical  way  of  obtaining,  and 
preserving  the  flavor  of  lemon-peel,  h  to  fill 
a  wide-mouthed  pint  bottle  half  full  of  bran- 
dy, or  proof  spirit ;  and  when  you  use  a 
lemon,  pare  the  rind  off  very  thin,  and  put 
it  into  the  brandy,  &c.:  in  a  fortnight  it 
will  impregnate  tlie  spirit  with  the  flavor 
very  strongly. 

LEMON  PICKLE.  (1)  Grate  off  a 
little  of  the  outer  rind  of  two  dozen  of  lem- 
ons; divide  them  into  four  rather  more  than 
half  way  down,  leaving  the  bottom  part 
whole;  rub  on  them  equally  half  a  ]xnnid 
of  finely-beaten  salt,  spread  them  upon  a 
large  dish,  and  put  them  into  a  cool  oven. 
When  the  juice  has  dried  up,  put  them  into 
a  stone  jar,  with  an  ounce  of  cloves  and  one 
of  mace  finely  Ijeaten,  one  ounce  of  nutmeg 
cut  into  thin  slices,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
cayenne,  and  four  ounces  of  garlic  peeled, 
also  half  a  pint  of  white  mustard-seed  bruis- 
ed and  tied  in  a  bit  of  muslin.  Pour  over 
the  whole  two  quarts  of  boiling  vinegar, 
stop  the  jar  closely,  and  let  it  stand  for  three 
months;  then  strain  it  through  a  hair  sieve, 
pressing  it  well  through ;  let  it  stand  till  die 
next  day,  pour  off  the  clear,  and  put  it  into 
small  Iwttles.  Ix>t  the  dregs  stand  covered 
somC  days,  when  it  will  become  tine.  It 
will  keep  good  for  years.  When  the  lem- 
ons are  to  be  used  as  pickle,  no  straining  is 
necessary. 

LEMON  PICKLE.  (2)  Cut  into  quar- 
ters, and  pick  out  all  the  seeds  of  six  mid- 
dling sized  lemons;  put  them  into  a  jar, 
strew  over  them  two  ounces  of  well  beaten 
salt;  cover  the  jar  with  a  cloth  and  plate, 
and  let  it  stand  three  days ;  then  put  to  them 
cloves  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace 
beaten  fine,  one  ounce  of  garlic  or  shallot, 
two  of  mustard-seed  bruised,  and  one  nut- 
meg sliced.  JIake  a  quart  of  vinegar  tail- 
ing hot,  and  pour  it  over  the  ingredients; 
cover  the  jar,  and  in  three  or  four  days  close 
it  with  a  bung,  and  tie  leather  over  it.  It 
will  be  fit  for  use  in  a  week,  and  is  an  im- 
provement to  most  sauces,  ;md  particularly 
to  fish  sauce. 

LEMON  POSSET.  Squeeze  the  jnice 
of  two  lemons  into  a  China  bowl,  or  small 
deep  dish,  that  will  hold  a  quart;  sweeten 
it  like  sirup,  add  a  little  brandy  ;  boil  one 
pint  of  cream  with  a  bit  of  orange-peel ; 
take  out  the  peel ;  when  cold,  put  the  cream 
into  a  teapot,  pour  it  to  the  sirup,  holding 
it  high.  Make  it  the  day  before  it  is  want- 
ed. 

LEMON  PUDDING.     See  Pudding. 


LEMON    RINDS    MARMALADE. 

Having  squeezed  tlie  juice  from  your  lemons, 
cut  out  all  tlie  white  part,  and  put  the  rinds 
into  boiling  water:  as  soon  as  they  begin  to 
soften,  take  them  from  the  fire,  and  throw 
them  into  cold  water ;  then  lay  them  on  a 
sieve  to  drain,  and  make  diem  into  marma- 
lade, in  the  same  manner  as  apricots.  Or- 
ange rinds  are  done  this  way. 

LEMON  SPONGE.  Boil  half  an  ounce 
of  isinglass  in  a  pint  of  water  till  dissolved; 
strain  it,  and  the  following  day  add  the 
juice  of  two  lemons,  and  the  grated  peel  of 
one;  rub  through  a  hair  sieve,  into  the  isin- 
glass a  uood  quantity  of  rasplxrry  jam,  that 
has  stood  Ix'fore  the  fire  some  time,  and 
whisk  it  all  together  till  like  a  sponge;  put 
it  into  an  earthen  mould,  set  it  in  a  cold 
I  lace  lor  some  hours,  and  turn  it  out.  Any 
other  sort  of  preserve  may  be  used,  and  if 
made  with  only  orange  or  lemon-juice, 
sweeten  it  with  sugar,  or  make  it  with 
orange  jelly  which  may  have  been  left  the 
day  before. 

LEMON  SYLLABUBS.     Take  a  pint 

of  cream,  a  pint  of  white  wine,  the  peel  of 
two  lemons  grated,  and  the  juice;  sugar  ac- 
cording to  taste ;  let  it  stand  some  time ; 
mill  or  whip  it,  lay  the  froth  on  a  sieve;  put 
the  remainder  into  glasses,  and  lay  on  the 
froth.  They  should  IK;  made  the  day  before 
they  are  wanted.  If  you  should  wish  them 
to  taste  ver\  stront;  of  the  lemon,  you  must 
make  use  of  the  juice  of  six  lemons,  and 
nearly  a  pound  of  sugar;  they  will  keep 
four  or  five  days. 

LKMONS,  SIRUP  OF.  Put  a  pint  of 
fresh  lemon-juice  to  a  pound  and  three- 
quarters  of  lump  sugar;  dissolve  it  by  a 
gentle  heat ;  skim  it  till  the  surface  is  quite 
clear;  add  an  ounce  of  thin-rut  lemon-]>eel; 
let  them  simmer  (very  gently)  together  for  a 
feu  minutes,  and  run  it  through  a  flannel. 
When  cold,  Ixitilc  and  cork  it  closely,  and 
keep  it  in  a  cool  place.  Or,  Dissolve  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  (avoirdupois)  of  citric, 
i.  e.  crystallized  lemon  acid,  in  a  pint  of 
clarified  sirup;  flavor  it  with  tlie  peel,  or 
dissolve  the  acid  in  equal  parts  of  simple 
sirup,  and  sirup  of  lemon-peel. 

LEMON  WATER.  Put  two  slices  of 
thinly  pared  lemon  into  a  teapot,  a  little  bit 
of  the  peel,  and  a  bit  of  sugar,  or  a  large 
spoonful  of  capillaire ;  pour  in  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  stop  it  close  for  two  hours. 

LEMON  CONSERVE,  WHITE.  Boil 
a  pound  of  tlie  finest  sugar,  take  it  off  the 
fire,  and  squeeze  into  it  the  juice  of  one 
lemon  at  different  times,  stirring  continually; 


LOB 


111 


LOB 


it  will  make  the  sugar  as  white  ad  milk  if 
properly  done;  take  care  not  to  drop  any 
of  the  seeds  into  it ;  work  it  well  together, 
and  when  it  is  of  an  equal  substance  (which 
prove  in  the  same  manner  as  any  other  jelly), 
pour  it  into  a  mould.  Lemon  conserve  Is 
made  in  the  same  manner,  only  that  the  .su- 
gar must  he  boiled  to  a  greater  height  than 
lor  white  lemon  conserve.  • 

LOBSTER.  Buy  these  alive;  the  lob- 
ster merchant*  sometimes  keep  them  till 
they  are  starved,  before  they  l»il  them; 
they  are  then  watery,  have  not  half  their 
flavor,  and  like  otlier  persons  that  die  of  a 
consumption,  have  lost  the  calf  of  their  legs. 
Choose  those  that  (;is  an  old  co.,k  says,  are 
"heavy  and  lively,"  and)  aie  full  of  mo- 
tion, which  is  the  index  of  their  Ireslmr-s. 

Those  ofihe  middle  size  are  the  best.     .\c\- 

er    take   thrrn   when   the   shell    is    inciiisted, 

which  is  a  -i^n  they   .ire    old.     The    male 

•  lerred   to    eat,    and    the    female 

•  •count  of  the   eggs)  to  make  sauce  of. 

distinguished  In  havinga 

i  lull  than  the   male,  and   less  claws. 

i  a  |K)t,  uiih  water  salted  in  projxir- 
tion  of  a  lable-«|)ixinfiil  of  salt  to  a  quart  of 
water;  \ifcen  tlie  water  U.il-.  |>nt  it  in,  and 
keep  it  boiling  bri.-kly  fr<nn  half  an  hour  to 
an  hour,  according  to  its  .-i/.e;  wijx-  all  die 
scum  oil"  it,  and  nib  tin-  shell  with  a  very 
little  Uittcr  or  sweet  oil;  break  off  die 
great  claws,  crack  them  carefully  in  each 
joint,  so  that  they  may  not  l>e  shattered, 
and  yet  come  to  pieces  easily  ;  cut  tlie  till 
doun  die  middle,  and  .-end  up  the  body 
whole. 

I.OP.STKIIS,  to  chootf.  Tlie  heaviest 
are  considered  the  best.  \Vhcn  alive,  if they 
an-  quite  fresh,  the  claws  will  have  a  strung 
motion  when  yon  put  \onr  linger  on  ti, 
and  press  them.  Wln-n  yon  buy  them  • 
Ixiilni,  hv  whether  their  l.iil-  are  -ii:i  anil 
pull  up  with  a  spring,  otherwise  that  part 
will  IK-  flabby.  The  cock-lobster  may  lie 
.ii-ii,i-.i|.!i,-o  from  tin-  In  ii  In  the  nairow 
,..  ni  of  tlie  tul,  and  the  r.io  up|ici  niosl 
fins  wiiliin  it  :,M-  -lill'anil  hard;  lint  th..-r 
of  tin  ft,  and  the  tail  broader. 

Tile  male,  though  gcncralb  lh<-  smallest,  has 
tlie  highest  (la\  ir,  the  tl.-sli  is  firmer,  ami 
•lor  uiien  b-iilcd  is  a  dcejier  r.-d.  They 
come  m  aljuiii  A|)i  il,  and  •  i.iin  in  season 
till  tin-  oyster*  return.  M.-n  • 
preferred  for  sauces,  on  account  of  their 
coral. 

|rC?&  I'Obstfri  are  told  in  Button,  al- 
ready boiled,  and  are  always  freth  and 
good. 

I.OIISTKK  A  I.A  r.KAISK.  I'onnd 
tin-  meal  of  n  laige  lolistcr  very  line  with 


two  ounces  of  butter,  and  season  it  with 
grated  nutmeg,  salt,  and  white  pepper;  add 
a  little  grated  bread,  lieat  up  two  eggs,  re- 
serve |>art  to  put  over  tlie  meat,  and  with 
the  rest  make  it  up  into  the  form  of  a  lob- 
ster. Pound  the  sjiawn  and  red  part,  and 
spread  it  over  it;  bake  it  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  and  just  before  serving,  lay  over  it  die 
tail  and  Ixxly  shell,  with  the  small  claws  put 
underneath  to  resemble  a  lobster. 

LOBSTERS  OR  CRABS,  BUTTKRKU. 
Pick  all  the  meat  from  tlie  bodies  of  either, 
mince  it  small,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with 
two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  white  wine, 
one  of  lemon-pickle,  and  three  or  four  of 
rich  gravy,  a  bit  of  butter,  some  silt,  pep- 
per, and  grated  nutmeg;  thicken  it  with 
tlie  yolks  of  two  ei^s  l»eal  up,  and  when 
quite  hot,  put  it  into  the  lar^e  shells,;  gar- 
nish them  with  an  edging  of  bread  toasted. 

LOBSTER  FRICASSEE.  Break  tlie 
stalls,  and  take  out  die  meat  carefully,  cut 
it  and  the  red  part,  or  coral,  into  pieces, 
adding  the  spawn;  thicken  with  flour  and 
butter  some  white  .-lock,  with  which  the 
shells  have  been  boiled;  season  it  with 
white  pepper,  mace,  and  salt,  put  in  the 
lob.-tcr  and  heat  it  tip;  just  Ix-fore  serving, 
add  a  little  lemon-juice,  or  lemon  pickle. 
Tlie  stock  may  be  made  with  the  shells,  only 
boiled  in  a  pint  of  water,  with  some  white 
pepper,  .-all.  and  a  little  mace,  thickened 
with  cream,  flour,  and  butter. 

LOBSTER  KETCHUP.       Choose    a 

•  ii  is  lull  of  sfKiwn,  and  weighing 
as  in  .11  U  as  |*i.-sililc  three  pounds;  pick  out 
all  (lie  meat,  and  pound  the  red  |>art  or  co- 
ral in  a  marble  mortar;  when  completely 
brin.-i  il,  .i>!<!  ihe  meal  ;  |Hiiind.  and  moisten 
it  with  a  little  slierry  wine,  mix  with  it  a 
tea-s|XHiiifnl  of  cayenne,  add  the  rest  of  the 
Uitlle  of  sherry,  and  mix  it  thoroughly;  put 
il  into  two  uide-in  .iiiiu  ,!  littles,  ami  on 
(he  top  put  a  -mall  talile--|H»iulid  of'  whole 
|«-p|>er,  cork  the  Ixdtlcs  tightly,  and  tie 
them  over  with  leather.  It  will  kc.rp  good 
a  Iwelxu-month,  and  exactly  resembles  fresh 

;•«•«•.  Four  table-tpoonfbli  heated 
in  melted  butter  arc  nulliciunt  for  a  large 

-.ince-tn:cen. 

LOBSTKIl  I'ATTir.S.  (1)  Pick  the 
meat  and  nil  U-rries  i,m  of  a  li.U-ter,  mince 
them  finely,  add  grated  bread,  <  hop|xjd  pars- 
ley, and  butter;  reason  with  grated  nutmeg, 
white  |K-p|«-r,  and  salt;  add  a  little  white 
stock,  cream,  and  a  lal>le-s|MH>iifnl  of  white 
wine,  with  a  lew  chop|»-d  oy.-lers;  heat  it 
all  together.  Line  the  patt\-p.uis  with  |HlfT 
paste;  put  into  each  a  bit  of  crumb  of  bread, 
about  an  inch  stjuare,  wet  tlie  edge  of  the 


LOB 


112 


MAC 


paste,  and  cover  it  with  another  bit;  with 
the  paste-cutter  mark  it  all  round  the  rim, 
and  pare  off  the  paste  round  the  edge  of  the 
patty-pan.  When  baked,  take  off  the  top, 
and  with  a  knife  take  out  the  bread  and  a 
little  of  the  inside  paste,  put  in  the  prcjKir- 
ed  lobster,  lay  on  the  top  paste,  and  serve 
them  in  a  napkin.  Another  way  to  pre- 
pare the  paste. — Roll  it  out  nearly  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  cut  it  into  rounds  with  a 
tin  cutter,  and,  with  one  or  two  sizes  less, 
mark  it  in  the  middle  about  half  through. 
When  they  are  baked,  carefully  cut  out  die 
inner  top  of  the  paste,  and  scoop  out  the  in- 
side, so  as  to  make  room  for  the  mince,  which 
put  in,  and  place  on  the  top. 

LOBSTER  PATTIES.  (2)  Prepare  the 
patties  as  in  the  last  receipt.  Take  a  hen 
lobster  already  boiled ;  pick  the  meat  from 
the  tail  and  claws,  and  chop  it  fine ;  put  it 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  of  the  inside 
spawn  pounded  in  a  mortar  till  quite  smooth, 
an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  half  a  gill  of  cream, 
and  half  a  gill  of  veal  consomme,  cayenne 
pepper,  and  salt,  a  tea-spoonful  of  essence 
•faBcfeovy,  the  same  of  lemon-juice,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour  and  water:  stew  it 
five  minutes. 

LOBSTER  PIE.  (1)  Boil  the  lobsters, 
and  cut  the  meat  of  the  tail  into  four  bits ;  take 
out  the  meat  from  the  claws  and  bodies, 
pound  it  in  a  mortar,  add  the  soft  part  of 
one  lobster,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  nutmeg,  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
vinegar;  melt  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and 
mix  it  with  the  pounded  meat  and  the  crumb 
of  a  slice  of  grated  bread.  Put  puff  paste 
round  the  edge  and  side  of  the  dish ;  put  in 
the  tail  of  the  lobster,  then  a  layer  of  oys- 
ters with  their  liquor,  and  next  the  pounded 
meat ;  cover  it  with  a  puff  paste,  and  bake 
it  till  the  paste  be  done.  Before  serving, 
pour  in  some  rich  gravy,  made  of  a  little 
weak  stock  in  which  the  lobster  shells  have 
been  boiled,  with  an  onion,  |>epper,  and 
salt,  and  which  has  been  strained  and  thick- 
ened with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour. 

LOBSTER  PIE.  (2)  Take  out,  as 
whole  as  possible,  the  meat  from  the  tail 
and  claws  of  two  or  three  boiled  lobsters ; 
cut  them  into  slices,  and  season  them  with 
nutmeg,  pepper,  and  salt.  Make  a  force- 
meat of  the  soft  part  of  the  bodies,  together 
with  grated  bread,  some  parsley, ..and  one 
anchovy  minced,  grated  lemon-peel,  mace, 
salt,  and  pep|>er,  tl»e  yolks  of  two  hard- 
boiled  eggs  bruised,  Bad  a  bit  of  butter;  mix 
it  all  together  with  the  well-l>eaten  yolk  of 
an  egg,  and  make  it  up  into  Miiall  balls. 
Put  the  lobster  into  the  pie-dish,  and  cover 
it  with  the  forcemeat  ball.",  ami  hard-boiled 


yolks  of  eggs;  add  more  than  lialf  a  pint  of 
rich  white  stock,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  and 
a  table-spoonful  of  lemon-juice  or  vinegar. 
Cover  it  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  it  only 
till  the  paste  be  done. 

LOBSTER  SAUCE.  Choose  a  fine 
spawny  hen  lol>ster ;  1*  sure  it  ig  fresh,  pick 
out  the  spawn  and  the  red  coral  into  a  mor- 
tar, add  to  it  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pound 
it  quite  smooth,  and  rub  it  through  a  hair- 
sieve  with  the  bark  of  a  wooden  spoon;  cut 
the  meat  of  the  lobster  into  small  squares,  or 
'pull  it  to  pieces  with  a  fork ;  put  the  pound- 
ed spawn  into  as  much  melted  buttec  as  you 
think  will  do,  and  stir  it  together  till  it  is 
thoroughly  mixed ;  now  put  to  it  the  meat 
of  the  lobster,  and  warm  it  on  the  fire;  take 
care  it  does  not  boil,  which  will  spoil  its 
complexion,  and  its  brilliant  red  color  will 
immediately  fade.  The  above  is  a  very  easy 
and  excellent  manner  of  making  this  sauce. 
Some  use  strong  beef  or  veal  gravy  instead 
of  melted  butter,  adding  anchovy,  cayenne, 
ketchup,  cavice,  lemon-juice,  or  pickle,  or 
wine,  &c. 

LUNCHEON   FOR    AN   INVALID. 

Put  bread  crumbs  and  red  currant,  or  any  other 
jelly,  alternately  into  a  tumbler,  and  when 
nearly  half  full,  till  it  up  with  milk. 


H. 

MACARONI,  TO  MAKE.  Beat  four 
eggs  for  eight  or  ten  minutes,  strain  them, 
and  stir  in  flour  till  stiff  enough  to  work  into 
a  paste  upon  a  marble,  or  stone  slab ;  add 
flour  till  it  be  a  stiff  paste,  and  work  it  well ; 
cut  off  a  small  bit  at  a  time,  roll  it  out  as 
thin  as  paper,  and  cut  it  with  a  paste-cut- 
ter or  knife  into  very  narrow  strips ;  twist, 
and  lay  them  upon  a  clean  cloth,  in  a  dry, 
warm  place;  in  a  few  hours  it  will  be  per- 
fectly hard;  put  it  into  a  box,  with  white 
paper  under  and  over  it.  It  may  be  cut  in- 
to small  stars,  or  circles,  to  be  used  for  soup, 
and  does  not  require  so  much  tailing  as  the 
Italian  Macaroni. 

MACARONI.  The  usual  mode  of  dress- 
ing it  in  England  is  by  adding  a  white 
sauce,  and  Parmesan  or  Cheshire  cheeso, 
and  burning  it ;  but  this  makes  a  dish  which 
is  proverbially  unwholesome:  'tis  bad  quali- 
ties arise  from  t'ie  oiled  and  burnt  did  M-. 
and  the  half-dressed  flour  and  butter  put  into 
the  white  sauce.  Macaroni  plain  boiled, 
and  some  rich  stock  or  poitable  soup  added 
to  it  quite  hot,  will  be  found  a  delicious  dish 
and  \ery  wholesome.  Or,  boil  macaroni  aa 
'  directed  in  the  receipt  for  the  pudding,  and 


MAC 


113 


MAC 


serve  it  quite  hot  in  a  deep  tureen,  and  let 
each  guest  add  grated  Parmesan  and  cold 
butter,  or  oiled  butter  served  hot,  and  it  is 
excellent ;  this  ia  the  most  common  Italian 
mode  of  dressing  it.  Macaroni  with  cream, 
sugar,  and  cinnamon,  or  a  little  varicelli 
added  to  the  cream,  makes  a  very  nice  sweet 
dish.  See  Macaroni  Pudding  for  the 
Boiling  of  it. 

MACARONI    DRESSED    SWEET. 

Boil  two  ounces  of  macaroni  in  a  pint  of 
milk,  \vitJi  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  and  a  good 
bit  of  cinnamon,  till  the  pipes  are  swelled  to 
their  utmost  size  without  breaking.  Lay 
them  on  a  custard-dish,  and  pour  a  custard 
over  them  hot.  Serve  cold. 

MACARONI  GRATIN.  Lay  fried 
bread  pretty  closely  round  a  dish,  boil  your 
macaroni  in  tin-  usual  way,  and  pour  it  into 
the  dish ;  smooth  it  all  over,  and  strew  bread- 
crumbs on  it,  tlten  a  pretty  thick  layer  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese;  drop  a  little  melt- 
ed butter  on  it,  and  color  it  with  a  saJaman- 


MACAROM  NAPOLITAINE.     Boil 

two  pounds  of  macaroni  for  half  an  hour,  in 
suit  anil  water;  thru  put  it  into  a  cullender 
to  drain.  Take  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  cheese  grated;  put  a  layer  of  macaroni, 
in  a  deep  dish  or  tureen,  and  on  it  a  layer 
of  macaroni,  the  cheese,  and  so  on,  alter- 
nately, till  both  are  used  up,  making  the 
cheese  the  top;  pour  over  it  some  gravy, 
melt  lull' a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  put  on 
the  whole.  Serve  it  very  hot. 

MACARONI  TO  SERVE.  (1)  Sim- 
mer it  in  a  little  stock,  \\iili  pounded  mace 
and  salt.  When  qai  i-  M-.ider,  take  it  out 
of  the  liquor,  lay  it  in  a  ili.-li,  grate  over  it  a 
good  deal  of  cheese,  then  over  that  put  bread 
grated  very  (inc.  Warm  some  butter  with- 
out oiling,  and  pour  it  from  a  boat  through 
a  little  earthen  cullender  all  o\er  tlie  crums, 
then  put  the  ilisli  in  a  Dutch  oven  to  roast 
•he  cheese,  and  brown  tin-  hivad  of  a  fine 
color.  The  bread  should  be  in  separate 
crums,  and  look  light. 

M  V  i '  \  K<  ).\  I  TO  SERVE.    (2)   Wash 

it  well,  and  simmer  it  in  half  milk,  and 
half  of  veal  or  mutton  stock,  till  tile 
macaroni  is  tender;  then  take  a  spoonful 
of  tin'  liquor,  put  ID  it  the  volk  oi 
beaten  in  a  >-|HM>nful  of  cream;  just  maki-  it 
hot  to  thicken,  Iwt  do  rtot  let  it  Ixiil;  pour 
it  over  tlir  macaroni,  and  then  grate  fine  old 
I  over  it  and  add  bits  of  butter; 
brown  it  nicelv  with  the  salamander. 

M  \r.YKO.\l  STEWED.     H.ilaquar- 
10* 


ter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni  in  beef  stock,  till 
nearly  done;  then  strain  it,  and  add  a  gill 
of  cream,  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  table  spoon- 
ful of  the  essence  of  ham,  three  ounces  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  a  little  cayenne 
pepper  and  salt ;  mix  them  over  a  fire  for 
five  minutes,  then  put  it  on  a  dish,  strew 
grated  Pai  mesan  cheese  over  it,  smooth  it 
over  widi  a  knife,  and  color  it  with  a  very 
hot  salamander. 

,  MACARONI  TIMBALE.  Take  some 
puff  paste,  roll  it  thin,  and  cut  it  into  narrow 
bands;  twist  each  into  a  kind  of  cord, 
which  place  round  the  ins  ides  of  buttered 
moulds,  snail  fashion;  fill  each  mould  with 
macaroni,  cover  the  tops  with  grated  bread, 
and  Parmesan  cheese  (equal  quantities  of 
each) ;  put  the  Timbales  into  a  warm  oven, 
and  bake  diem  three-quarters  of  an  hour ; 
then  turn  them  91  a  dish,  and  serve. 

MACAROONS.  Take  a  pound  of  sweet 
almonds  blanched,  and  nicely  pounded,  add  a 
little  rose-water  to  pi-event  their  oiling ;  add 
a  pound  of  sifted  sugar,  then  whisk  the  whites 
of  ten  eggs  to  a  solid  froth,  and  add  to 
the  above;  beat  all  togedier  for  some  time. 
Have  ready  wafer  paper  on  tin  plates,  drop 
the  mixture  over  it  separately,  the  size  of  a 
shilling,  or  smaller;  sift  over  them  a  little 
sugar,  and  bake  them. 

MACAROONS,  SWEET.  Blanch  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  throw  them  into 
cold  water  for  a  few  minutes,  lay  them  in  a 
napkin  to  dry,  and  leave  them  for  twenty- 
four  hours ;  at  t lie  end  of  that  time,  pound 
them,  a  handful  at  a  time,  adding  occasion- 
ally some  white  of  egg,  till  the  whole  is  re- 
duced to  a  fine  paste;  then  take  two  pounds 
of  tlie  best  lump  sugar,  pound  and  sift  it, 
then  put  it  to  the  almonds,  with  the  grated 
rinds  of  two  lemons;  beat  these  ingredients 
together  in  tlie  mortar,  adding  one  at  a  time, 
as  many  eggs  as  you  find  necessary  to  moist- 
en the  paste,  which  should  lie  thin,  Ixit  not 
too  much  so,  as  in  that  case  it  would  run; 
your  |>aste  licing  ready,  take  out  a  little  in  a 
s|NX)ii,and  l.u  the  macaroons  on  sheets  of 
white  pa|«r  eilltcr  round  or  oval,  as  you 
please ;  lay  them  at  least  an  inch  apart,  be- 
cause t  In  A  .-pread  in  baking,  and  if  (Hit  near- 
er would  touch.  Tlie  whole  of  your  paste 
being  used,  place  tlie  sheets  of  paper  on 
tins  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour.  ., 

This  kind  of  cake  requires  great  care  and 
attention;  it  will  be  well  therefore  to  take 
notice  of  the  following  rules:  1.  To  mind 
that  the  almonds  are  |>ciTectly  dry  Ulbre 
you  begin  to  pound  them.  2.  Take  great 
care  ill, it  not  a  particle  of  the  yolk  is  mixed 
with  the  while  of  egg,  which  would  entirely 


MAC 


114 


MAI 


spoil  the  color  of  die  macaroons,  and  prevent 
their  rising  in  the  oven ;  to  avoid  this,  open 
each  separately,  and  if  perfectly  fresh,  divide 
the  yolk  and  white  with  great  care.  3.  The 
oven  must  be  no  more  than  moderately  heat- 
ed, nothing  being  more  liable  to  burn  than 
almonds  and  sugar;  by  the  least  negligence 
in  tliis  res|x>ct,  the  surface  would  be  burned, 
whilst  the  inside  would  remain  unl>aked. 
The  best  method  to  obviate  any  mischief  of 
this  sort: — put  two  or  three  macaroons  into 
the  even  to  try  it ;  leave  them  in  tlie  usual 
time;  and  if,  when  you  take  them  out,  they 
are  of  a  clear  yellow,  the  oven  is  properly 
heated,  and  the  whole  of  the  macaroons  may 
then  be  put  in. 

MACKEREL,  TO  CHOOSE.  Their 
gills  should  be  of  a  fine  red,  their  eyes  full, 
and  the  whole  fish  stiff  and  bright;  if  the 
gills  are  of  a  faint  color,  the  fish  limber  and 
wrinkled,  they  are  not  fresh. 

MACKEREL  BAKED.  Cut  off  their 
heads,  open  them,  and  take  out  the  roes  and 
clean  them  thoroughly ;  rub  them  on  the  in- 
side with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  put  the 
roes  in  again,  season  them  (with  a  mixture 
of  powdered  allspice,  black  pepper,  and 
salt,  well  nibbed  together),  and  lay  them 
close  in  a  baking-pan,  cover  them  with  equal 
quantities  of  cold  vinegar  and  water,  tie 
diem  down  with  strong  white  paper  doubled, 
and  hake  them  for  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven. 
They  will  keep  for  a  fortnight. 

MACKEREL  BOILED.  This  fish 
loses  its  life  as  soon  as  it  leaves  the  sea,  and 
the  fresher  it  is  the  better.  Wash  and  clean 
them  thoroughly  (tlie  fishmongers  seldom  do 
this  sufficiently),  put  them  into  cold  water 
with  a  handful  of  salt  in  it;  let  them  rather 
simmer  than  boil;  a  small  mackerel  will  be 
done  enough  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour; 
when  the  eye  starts  and  the  tail  splits,  they 
are  done;  do  not  let  them  stand  in  the  wa- 
ter a  moment  after;  they  are  so  delicate 
that  the  heat  of  tlie  water  will  break  them. 

MACKEREL  BROILED.  Clean  a  fine 
large  mackerel,  wipe  it  on  a  dry  cloth,  and 
cut  a  long  slit  down  tlie  back ;  lay  it  on  a 
clean  gridiron,  over  a  very  clear,  slow  fire; 
when  it  is  done  on  one  side,  turn  it;  be 
careful  that  it  does  not  burn;  send  it  up 
with  fennel  sauce;  mix  well  together  a 
little  finely  minced  fennel  and  parsley,  sea- 
soned with  a  little  |x-pper  and  salt,  a  bit  of 
froh  1  Hitter,  and  when  the  mackerel  are 
reads  l">r  the  table,  put  some  of  this  into 
each  fi.-li. 

MACKEREL,  THE  GERMAN  WAY. 

Split  tin-in  down  tlie  back,  and  season  them 


with  pepper  and  salt ;  broil  them,  and  serve 
with  tlie  following  sauce;  pick  and  wash 
some  fennel,  |  sirs  ley,  mint,  thyme,  and  green 
onions  ;  but  use  only  a  small  quantity  of  each. 
Boil  them  tender  in  a  little  veal  stock ;  then 
chop  them  up,  and  add  to  them  some  fresh 
butter,  the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in,  some 
grated  nutmeg,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a 
little  cayenne  |>cp|>er,  and  salt.  Ix?t  it  boil, 
thicken  it  with  Hour,  and  serve  in  a  sauce 
boat. 

MADE  DISHES.  Be  careful  to  trim 
off  all  the  skin,  gristle,  &c.  that  will  not  be 
eaten ;  and  sh;i])e  handsomely,  and  of  even 
thickness,  the,  various  articles  which  compose 
your  made  dishes:  this  is  sadly  neglected  by 
common  cooks.  Only  stew  them  till  they 
are  just  tender,  and  do  not  stew  them  to 
rags;  therefore,  what  you  prepare  tlie  day 
before  it  is  to  be  eaten,  do  not  dress  quite 
enough  the  first  day.  We  have  given  re- 
ceipts for  the  most  easy  and  simple  way  to 
make  HASHES,  &c.  Those  who  are  well 
skilled  in  culinary  aits  can  dress  up  things 
in  this  way,  so  as  to  be  as  agreeable  as  they 
were  the  first  time  they  were  cooked. 

MADELAINES.  Take  nine  ounces  of 
powder-sugar,  eight  of  flour,  the  yolks  of 
four  and  six  whole  eggs,  two  spoonfuls  of 
brandy,  and  a  grain  of  salt ;  put  these  into 
a  saucepan,  stirring  continually,  until  the 
paste  thickens;  after  which,  stir  only  one 
minute;  clarify  ten  ounces  of  good  fresh  but- 
ter, with  which,  butter  about  two  and  thirty 
madelaine  moulds,  pour  the  remainder  of  tlie 
butter  into  your  preparation;  set  it  on  a 
gentle  stove,  stir  till  it  begins  to  become  li- 
quid, take  it  off  before  it  has  time  to  get  too 
hot,  put  a  little  of  this  into  each  mould,  and 
bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 

M  A  D  E  L  A  I  N  E  S  IN  SURPRISE. 

Make  them  in  the  usual  way;  when  cold, 
cut  a  thin  slice  from  the  bottom,  take  out 
nearly  all  the  inside;  pound  four  ounces 
of  blanched  lillxTts,  mix  them  with  eight 
spoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade,  which 
mixture  put  into  the  madclaincs,  and  place 
the  slice  taken  from  the  bottom,  and  serve 
diem. 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL,  COLD.     Put   a 

quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
with  some  parsley  and  shallots,  minced  small, 
salt,  whole  pepper,  and  lemon-juice;  mix 
the  whole  together  with  a  wooden  spoon. 
Pour  the  Maitrt  d' 'Hotel  either  over,  un- 
der, or  into  whatever  meat  or  fish  you  in- 
tend to  serve. 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL  MAIGRE.    Put 

into  some  nicely  melted  butter  a  little  chop- 


MAT 


115 


MIL 


ped  parsley,  salt,  and  lemon-juice;  one  or 
two  minced  shallots  may  be  added,  and  heat 
it  all  together. 

MARCHPANE  ROYAL.  Take  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  blanch  and  throw 
them  into  cold  water,  drain  and  pound  them, 
moistening  with  orange-flower  and  plain 
water,  but  take  care  not  to  put  too  much  at 
once.  Hie  almonds  being  reduced  to  a 

'i  them  into  a  preserving  pan  with 
lialf  a  |v>nnd  of  powder  sugar,  set  the  pan 
on  u  moderate  fire  to  dry  the  paste,  which 
will  be  Mitiiciently  so  if,  when  you  touch  it, 
it  no  longer  sticks  to  your  finger,  then  take 
it  out  and  place  it  on  a  plate  or  wafer  paper, 
previously  sprinkled  with  sugar:  as  soon  as 
it  i.-  cold  cut  it  in  pieces,  which  roll  in  vour 
hand  to  tin-  ,-iw  of  your  little  finger;  form 
them  into  rin^s,  and  lay  them  on  iron  grat- 

•<•  and  put  them  into  a  brisk  oven 
t<i  color.  The  above  paste  may  also  be  em- 
ployed a-s  follows:  roll  it  out  and  cut  it  in 
half,  spread  over  one  piece  apricot  marma- 
lade, or  any  other  preserve  you  please,  cover 
it  with  tlie  other  piece,  cut  it  into  lozenges, 
.  according  to  your  fancy,  lay 
them  mi  tin-  sjr.itirii;  as  above,  glaze  and  co- 
lor them  i:i  a  quick  oven. 

MMMORVM,  SWEET,  TO  PRE- 
SERVE. Beat  up  very  well  the  white  of 
an  egg,  then  lieat  very  fine  and  sift  some 
doiiljlorefined  sugar;  take  some  marjoram 
and  rub  it  on  a  glass  that  is  quite  clean,  and 
lay  it  in  tin-  form  of  the  glass;  so  do  it  with 
the  egg,  thru  sear  it  with  the  sugar  on  it,  and 
lav  it  on  paper  to  dry. 

MARM  \L\DE.  Marmalade  may  be 
com|n>seii  i  if  almost  any  fruit*;  the  best, 
however,  tor  thispurpoee  are,  apricots,  peach- 
es, oraiiL''--.  quince.-,  e^-plning,  apple*,  &c. 
They  are  usually  madi-  l>y  lioiling  tile  fruit 
and  sugar  together  to  :i  kind  of  pulp,  stir- 
ring them  constantly  whilst  on  the  lire;  it  is 
kept  in  jxits,  which  inns!  not  be  covered  till 
d.ide  is  quite  cold.  The  propor- 
•  half  a  pound  to  each  |x.imd 
of  fruit. 

|CP  f»'te  Names  of  Article*,  of  which 
it  is  made. 

<>\V   |{)).\ES.     Chop    the  bones 

i-  to  stand  steady,  then  wash 

tin-in   ( li-an,  saw  tliem    in  halves,  cover  the 

toji  with  a  diHired  cloth:  Ixiil  tliem,  and  serve 

with  dry  toa-t. 

M  \Ti:i.OTE  MEAT.  Take  beef,  veal, 
mutton.  :ind  |n>rk,  a  large  »lice  of  each,  and 

a  small  mu-  of  lei;  of  lamb;  cut  them  in  small 
piece*,  which  put  into  a  saucepan  with  equal 
quantities  of  stock  and  champaign,  salt  and 


spices,  cover  them  very  close,  and  set  them 
on  hot  ashes  for  six  hours,  then  serve  it. 

MEAD.  (1)  To  every  gallon  of  water 
put  four  pounds  of  honey,  boil  it  an  hour. 
Then  put  it  into  a  tub  with  some  \ea.-t  on  a 
toast ;  cover  it  over.  If  it  ferments  well  af- 
ter three  or  four  days,  draw  it  off" clear,  and 
put  it  into  a  cask,  with  one  lemon  sliced  to 
every  gallon ;  add  a  bottle  of  brandy  to  eve- 
ry ten  gallons.  The  rind  of  Seville  oranges, 
cut  very  thin,  suspended  in  the  barrel,  is  a 
great  improvement  to  the  flavor.  It  is  best 
to  wash  the  cask  round  with  part  of  the 
brandy,  before  the  liquor  is  put  in. 

MEAD.  (2)  One  part  of  honey  is  dissolv- 
ed in  three  parts  of  water,  and  boiled  over  a 
moderate  fire  till  it  is  reduced  to  two-thirds 
of  the  quantity.  It  is  then  skimmed,  and 
pit  into  a  barrel,  which  must  be  quite  full; 
it  is  allowed  to  subside  for  three  or  four 
days,  and  then  drawn  off"  for  use.  To  make 
it  from  the  combs  from  which  honey  has  been 
drained,  they  are  to  be  beaten  in  warm  wa- 
ter, and  after  the  liquor  lias  sulisided,  it  is 
to  be  strained.  The  cottagers  in  Scotland 
make  an  excellent  beer  by  adding  a  little 
yeast  to  the  strained  liquor,  and  allowing  it 
to  ferment,  for  a  few  days,  in  a  cask,  and 
then  bottling  it. 

MEAT  CAKES.  Take  whatever  meat, 
game,  or  (xniltry,  you  may  chance  to  have, 
(it  !s  the  better  for  being  under-done) ;  mince 
it  fine,  adding  a  little  fat  bacon  or  ham,  or 
anchovy;  season  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt ;  mix  the  whole  well  together,  and  make 
it  into  small  cakes,  about  three  inches  in 
length,  an  inch  and  a  half  in  width,  and  half 
an  inch  thick ;  fry  them  of  a  light  brown, 
and  serve  thr-m  with  good  gravy;  or  put  it 
into  a  mould,  ami  boil  or  Like  it. 

MEAT,  TO  KEEP  HOT.  If  your 
!.'.-  u  i-  o  M  beftn  ;."ii  are  ready  to  serve, 
take  it  iij),  sol  tlic  di.-h  over  a  pan  of  boiling 
water,  put  a  dei^i  cover  over  it,  so  as  not  to 
touch  the  meat,  and  then  put  a  cloth  over 
that.  Thi.-i  way  will  nut  dry  up  the  gravy. 

MILK  COFFEE  FOR  BREAKFAST. 
See  Coffee. 

MII.K   PUNCH.     (1)      Bear  up  two 

e^'gs  well,  mix  them  in  a  quart  of  milk,  su- 
gar, nutmeg,  and  lemon-;**- 1  to  your  taste; 
l«>il  it  -.'entry,  stirring  it  all  tin:  time  till 
•nek  i  _'h  ;  lake  it  off  tlie  tin;  a  «n 
minutes,  ihen  add  to  it  a  full  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  nun.  It  must  lie  stirred  all  the  time 
tlie  rum  is  pouring  in,  or  it  will  not  be  good. 

.MILK  1T.NCH.  (2)  Eight  pounds  of  re- 


MIN 


116 


MOO 


fined  sugar  are  to  be  dissolved  in  the  strain- 
ed juice  of  three  dozen  lemons,  and,  when 
quite  settled,  two  gallons  of  brandy,  and  two 
gallons  and  a  half  of  cold  water,  are  to  be 
added,  and  also  the  lemon-peel ;  one  •gallon 
of  boiling  milk  being  then  poured  over  the 
ingredients,  they  are  to  stand  closely  covered 
for  twenty-four  hours ;  when,  being  skimmed 
and  run  through  a  very  thick  jelly-bag,  it 
may  be  quickly  bottled,  and  will  be  fit  for 
immediate  use ;  but  it  improves  by  keeping. 

MINCED  COLLOPS.  This  is  a  fe- 
vorite  Scotch  dish;  few  families  are  with- 
out it:  it  keeps  well,  and  is  always  ready  to 
make  an  extra  dish.  Take  beef,  and  chop 
and  mince  it  very  small;  to  which  add  some 
salt  and  pepper.  Put  this,  in  its  raw  state, 
into  small  jars,  and  pour  on  the  top  some  clar- 
ified butter.  When  intended  for  use,  put  the 
clarified  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  slice 
some  onions  into  the  pan,  and  fry  them.  Add 
a  little  water  to  it,  and  then  put  in  the  minced 
meat.  Stew  it  well,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
it  will  be  fit  to  serve  up.  See  Collops. 

MINCE  MEAT.  Two  pounds  of  beef 
suet,  picked  and  chopped  fine;  two  pounds 
of  apple,  pared,  cored,  and  minced ;  three 
pounds  of  currants,  washed  and  picked  ;  one 
pound  of  raisins,  stoned  and  chopped  fine; 
one  pound  of  good  moist  sugar;  half  a  pound 
of  citron,  and  one  pound  of  candied  lemon 
and  orange-peel,  cut  into  thin  slices;  two 
pounds  of  ready-dressed  roast  beef,  free  from 
skin  and  gristle,  and  chopped  fine ;  two  nut- 
megs, graled;  one  ounce  of  salt,  one  of 
ground  ginger,  lialf  an  ounce  of  coriander 
seeds,  half  an  ounce  of  allspice,  half  an  ounce 
of  cloves,  all  ground  fine ;  the  juice  of  six 
lemons,  and  their  rinds  grated;  half  a  pint 
of  brandy,  and  a  pint  of  sweet  wine.  Mix 
the  suet,  apples,  currants,  meat-plums,  and 
sweetmeats,  well  together  in  a  large  pan, 
and  strew  in  the  spice  by  degrees;  mix  the 
sugar,  lemon-juice,  wine,  and  brandy,  and 
];our  it  to  the  other  ingredients,  and  stir  it 
well  together ;  set  it  by  in  close-covered  pans 
in  a  cold  place:  when  wanted,  stir  it  up  from 
the  bottom,  and'add  half  a  glass  of  brandy 
to  the  quantity  you  require.  N.  B. — The  same 
weight  of  tripe  is  frequently  substituted  for 
the  meat,  and  sometimes  the  yolks  of  eggs 
boiled  hard.  Obs. — The  lean  side  of  a  but- 
tock, thoroughly  roasted,  is  genera Uy  chosen 
for  mince  meat. 

MI.NUTEN  FLEISH.  Cut  from  off  a 
leg  of  veal  some  slices  as  thin  as  the  blade 
pf  a  knife,  and  about  four  inches  long;  sea- 
son them  with  pepper  and  salt,  lay  them  in- 
to a  deep  dish,  pour  over  them  nearly  half 
a  pint  of  while  wine,  let  it  stand  for  three 
hours.  Cover  the  liottom  of  u  stcwpan  with 


butter,  dredge  each  slice  of  the  veaJ  on  both 
sides  with  flour;  add  a  little  more  wine, 
and  as  much  good  white  stock  as  will  cover 
it,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Cover  tlie  pan 
closely,  and  let  it  simmer  five  minutes,  and 
serve  it  instantly,  otlierwise  it  will  become 
hard. 

MOCK  ARRACK.  Dissolve  two  scru- 
ples of  flowers  of  benjamin  in  a  quart  of 
good  rum,  and  it  will  immediately  impart 
to  it  the  inviting  fragrance  of  "Vauxhall 
nectar." 


MOCK  BRAWN.     See  Brawn. 


MOCK  CAPER  SAUCE. 
Caper. 


See  Sauce 


MOCK  GOOSE,  OR  LEG  OF  PORK 

ROASTED  WITHOUT  THE  SKIN.      Parboil 

it ;  take  oft"  the  skin,  and  then  put  it  down 
to  roast;  baste  it  with  butter,  and  make  a 
savory  powder  of  finely  minced,  or  dried 
and  powdered  sage,  ground  black  pepper, 
salt,  and  some  bread-crumbs,  rubbed  togeth- 
er through  a  colander ;  you  may  add  to  this 
a  little  very  finely  minced  onion:  sprinkle  it 
with  this  when  it  is  almost  roasted.  Put 
half  a  pint  of  made  gravy  into  the  dish,  and 
goose*  stuffing  under  the  knuckle  skin;  or 
garnish  the  dish  with  balls  of  it  fried  or 
boiled. 

MOCK  ICE.  Of  preserved  strawber- 
ries, raspberries,  and  red  currant  jelly,  a 
table-spoonful  each ;  rub  it  through  a  sieve, 
with  as  much  cream  as  will  fill  a  shape; 
dissolve  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  isin- 
glass in  half  a  pint  of  water;  when  almost 
cold,  mix  it  well  with  the  cream,  put  it  into 
a  shape,  set  it  in  a  cool  place,  and  turn  it 
out  the  following  day. 


MOCK,  TURTLE. 
Head. 


See  Soup  Calf'» 


MOORFOWL,  TO  STEW.  Truss 
them,  keeping  on  their  heads,  but  draw  the 
legs  within  the  body;  mix  well  wmir  -.alt 
and  pepper  with  flour  and  a  piece  c.t"  liuiter, 
and  put  a  small  bit  into  each  bird;  try  llieni 
all  over  of  a  nice  brown  in  butter.  J'.rowu 
some  butter  and  flour,  and  add  to  it  some  good 
gravy,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  mace,  and 
two  cloves  poundpd;  boil  up  the  sauce,  put 
in  the  moorfowl,  and  let  tin-in  stew  very 
slowly  till  tender.  A  little  before  taking 
them  off  the  fire,  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
mushroom  ketchup.  If  the  birds  are  old, 
stew  them  for  two  hours;  if  young  ones, 
half  that  time.  Cold  roasted  moorlm\l  are 
dressed  exactly  in  the  same  way  only  cut 
into  joints,  and  stewed  very  gently  nearly  as 


MUS 


117 


M  U  S 


long.  Half  an  hour  lx>fore  son  ing,  a  small 
tea-cupful  of  Port  wine  should  be  added. 

Ml  TFINS.  (1)  Take  one  pint  of  milk 
quite  w:mn.,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thick 
small-tx-cr  yast  ;  siniin  them  into  a  pan,  and 
adil  sntiicicnt  flour  to  make  it  like  a  batter; 
cover  it  over,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm 
place  until  it  ha*  risen  ;  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  nf  warm  milk,  and  one  ounce  of 
butter  ruliljerl  in  some  flour  quite  fine;  mix 
them  well  together  :  then  add  sufficient  flour 
to  make  it  into  dcin^li,  cover  it  over,  and 
let  it  stand  half  an  hour  ;  then  work  it  up 
again,  and  break  it  into  small  pieces:  roll 
them  up  quite  round,  and  cover  them  over 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  bake  them. 

MUFFINS.     (2)     Mix  two  pounds  of 

lour  with  a  couple  of  e^'s,  two  ounces  of 
butter  melted  in  a  pint  of  milk,  and  four  or 
:  .til!.-  of  year-l  ;  l>eat  it  thoroughly, 

and  set  it  to  rise  two  or  three  hours.     Bake 
it  on  a  hot   hearth   in   li;it  cakes,  and  turn 
\lieii  done,  on  one  side. 

M  1  i  !  1  \  >  .  (3)  Take  two  quarts  of 
warm  water,  two  skinfuls  of  yeast,  three 
pounds  of  ilonr  ;  Ix-at  it  well  for  half  an 
hour,  and  let  it  stand  an  hour  or  two;  bake 
them  on  an  iron  Iraking-stove  (nib  it  well 
over  with  mutton-suet  as  often  as  they  are 
laid  on)  ;  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  color, 
turn  tlie  m  ;  they  will  be  sufficiently  baked 
when  colored  on  both  sides. 

MI'I.1.\<:  VTAWNY.  Boil  slowly  in 
two  quaris  of  water  one  pound  of  split  peas, 
half  an  ounce  of  hotter,  two  onions  sliced,  a 
little  salt,  cayime,  and  two  bla.les  of  mace. 
When  t!<  •  -nder,  put  in  a  large- 

fowl,  cul  in  joints  and  skinned,  two  quarts 
of  txiilin  -lock,  if  the  soup  lx>  re- 

quireil  \e:v  rich  ;  twenty  minutes  before 
sen  in:.'.  a<!d  a  large  table  spoonful  of  curry- 
powder,  and  tlie  same  of  ground  rice. 


or    Mullagatawny   Soup,  see 


Soups. 

MM.  !.;:!>  WINE.     Put  into  a  pint  of 
Port  wine  two  or  three  cloves  and  a  bit  of 

.•iniiamon:  Irtiil  it  for  a  few  moment*;  take 
out  tin'  spi'-e,  -W..NH  it  with  loaf  sugar, 
and  grate  in  a  little  nutmeg.  Serve  with  a 
slice  i  :.:ui.  the  eru.it  pared  oil", 

and  cut  into  ohloim  pieces.  Tlie  Port  wine 
u  sometimes  boiled  with  a  third  of  its  quan- 
tity of  water. 

Ml  SIIUOOMS,  TO  CHOOSE.    The 

mushrooms  projxT  to  Ix?  used  in  cookery 
grow  in  the  o|>cii  justure  land,  for  tlioee  that 


grow  near  or  under  trees,  are  poisonous. 
The  eatable  mushrooms  first  appear  very 
small,  and  of  a  round  form,  on  a  little  stalk. 
They  UTOW  very  rapidly,  and  the  up|«r  part 
and  slalk  are  white.  As  they  increase  in 
size,  the  under  part  gradually  opens,  and 
shows  a  fringed  fur  of  a  very  fine  salmon  co- 
lor, which  continues  more  or  less  till  the 
mushroom  has  gained  some  size,  and  then 
turns  to  a  dark  brown.  The.-c  marks  should 
be  attended  to,  and  likewise  whether  the 
skin  can  be  easily  parted  from  tlie  edge 
and  middle,  and  whether  they  have  a  pleas- 
ant smell.  Those  which  are  poisonous  have 
a  yellow  skin,  and  tlie  under  part  has  not  the 
clear  flesh  color  of  the  real  mushroom ;  be- 
sides which,  they  smell  rank  and  disagreea- 
ble, and  the  for  is  white  or  yellow. 

MUSHROOM   KETCHUP.      If  you 

love  good  ketchup,  gentle  reader,  make  it 
yourself,  after  the  following  directions,  and 
you  will  have  a  delicious  relish  for  made- 
dishes,  ragouts,  soups,  sauces,  or  hashes. 

Mushroom  gravy  approaches  tlie  nature 
and  flavor  of  meat  gravy,  more  than  any  •• 
table  juice,  and  is  the" superlative  siilwtitute 
for  it:  in  meagre  soups  and  extempore  gra- 
vies, the  chemistry  of  the  kitchen  has  yet 
contrived  to  agreeably  awaken  the  palate, 
and  encourage  the  appetite. 

A  couple  of  quarts  of  double  ketchup, 
made  according  to  the  following  receipt, 
will  save  you  some  score  pounds  of  meat, 
lie-ides  a  vast  deal  of  time  and  trouble;  as  it 
will  furnish,  in  a  few  minutes,  as  good  sauce 
as  can  be  made  for  either  fish,  flesh,  or  fowl. 

I  believe  the  following  is  the  best  way  of 

ting    and    preparing    the   essence   of 

mn-hroom-,  so  as   to  procure  and  present 

their  flavor  liir  a  considerable  length  of  lime. 

Look  out  tin-  mushrooms  from  tlie  lieu'in- 
nini;  of  Septcnilier. 

Take  care  they  are  the  right  sort,  and 
fre-li  gathered.  Full-grown  tla|)s  are  tone 
preferred:  put  a  layer  of  these  at  the  bottom 
of  a  deep  earthen  pan,  and  sprinkle  them 
with  salt;  then  another  layer  of  mushrooms, 
and  some  more  salt  on  them ;  and  so  on  al- 
ternately, s;(lt  and  mushrooms:  let  tin-in  re- 
main two  or  three  hours,  by  which  time  tlie 
salt  will  have  penetrated  the  muslin  • 
rendered  them  easy  to  break ;  then  |xiund 
them  in  a  mortar,  or  mash  them  well  with 
your  hands,  and  let  tlicm  remain  f!>r  a  coiipl,: 
of  dajs,  not  longer,  stirring  them  rp,  and 
mashing  them  well  each  day  ;  then  |x>nr  them 
.ne  jar.  and  to  each  quart  add  an 
ounce  and  a  half  of  whole  black  |»-pper,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  allspice;  stop  tin-  jar  very 
close,  and  s<  t  it  in  a  stewpan  of  Uiilins  wa- 
ter and  keep  it  lx)ilin^'  for  two  hours  at  least. 
Take  out  tlie  jar,  and  pour  tlie  juice  clear 


MUS 


118 


MUT 


from  the  settlings  through  a  hair  sieve  (without 
squeezing  the  mushrooms)  into  a  clean  stew- 
pan;  let  it  boil  very  gently  for  half  an  hour: 
those  who  are  for  superlative  ketchup,  will 
continue  the  boiling  till  the  mushroom-juice 
is  reduced  to  half  the  quantity ;  it  may  then 
be  called  double  cat-sup  or  dog-sup. 

There  are  several  advantages  attending 
tills  concentration;  it  will  keep  much  better, 
and  only  half  the  quantity  lie  required;  so 
you  can  flavor  sauce,  &c.  without  thinning 
it:  neither  is  this  an  extravagant  way  of 
making  it,  for  merely  the  aqueous  part  is 
evaporated ;  skim  it  well,  and  pour  it  into  a 
clean  dry  jar,  or  jug;  cover  it  close,  and  let 
it  stand  in  a  cool  place  till  next  da\  ;  then 
pour  it  off  as  gently  as  |x>ssible  (so  as  not  to 
disturb  the  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the 
jug,)  through  a  tamis,  or  thick  flannel  bag, 
till  it  is  perfectly  clear;  add  a  table-spoon- 
fill  of  good  brandy  to  each  pint  of  ketchup, 
and  let  it  stand  as  before;  a  fresh  sediment 
will  be  deposited,  from  which  the  ketchup  is 
to  be  quietly  poured  off,  and  bottled  in  pints 
or  half  pints  (which  have  been  washed  with 
brandy  or  spirit):  it  is  best  to  keep  it  in 
such  quantities  as  are  soon  used. 

Take  especial  care  that  it  is  closely  cork- 
ed, and  sealed  down,  or  dipped  in  bottle  ce- 
ment. 

If  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  it  may  be 
preserved  for  a  long  time ;  but  if  it  be  badly 
corked,  and  kept  in  a  damp  place,  it  will 
soon  spoil. 

Examine  it  from  time  to  time,  by  plac-  ! 
ing  a  strong  light  behind  the  neck  of  tin- 
bottle,  and  if  any  pellicle  appears  alx>ut  it,  I 
boil  it  up  again  with  a  few  peppercorns. 

MUSHROOMS    TO    PICKLE.     Cut 

off  the  stalks,  and  wash  clean,  in  cold  wa- 
ter, some  small  button  mushrooms ;  nib  them 
with  a  bit  of  flannel,  then  throw  them  into 
fresh  water,  and  when  perfectly  clean,  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  fresh  cold  water, 
and  let  them  boil  eight  or  ten  minutes;  strain 
off  the  water,  lay  them  into  the  folds  of  a 
cloth.  Boil,  in  a  quart  of  vinegar,  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  pepper,  the  same  of  allspice, 
and  two  or  three  blades  of  mace,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt ;  put  the  mushrooms  into  a 
jar,  and  when  the  vinegar  is  cold,  pour  it, 
with  the  spices,  over  them. 

MUSHROOMS  TO  STEW.  Fora 
good-sized  dish,  take  a  pint  of  white  stock, 
season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  lemon 
pickle,  thicken  it  with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour;  cleanse  and  peel  the  mushrooms, 
sprinkle  them  with  a  very  little  salt,  boil 
them  for  three  or  four  minutes,  put  them  into 
the  gravy  when  it  is  hot,  and  stew  them  for 
fifteen  minutes. 


MUSTARD.  Mix  (by  degrees,  by  rub- 
bing together  in  a  mortar)  the  best  floor  of 
mustard,  with  vinegar,  white  wine,  or  cold 
water,  in  which  scraped  horseradish  has 
been  boiled ;  rub  it  well  together  for  at  least 
ten  minutes,  till  it  is  perfectly  smooth;  it 
will  keep  in  a  stone  jar  closely  stopped,  fora 
fortnight :  onlv  put  as  much  into  the  mustard- 
pot  as  will  be  used  in  a  day  or  two.  Obs. — 
Mustard  is  the  best  of  all  the  stimulants  that 
are  employed  to  give  energy  to  the  digestive 
organs.  Some  opulent  epicures  mix  it  with 
Sherry  or  Madeira  wine,  or  distilled  or  fla- 
vored vinegar,  instead  of  horseradish  water. 
The  French  flavor  their  mustard  with  Cham- 
]>aigne  and  other  wines,  or  with  vinegar  fla- 
vored with  capers,  anchovies,  tarragon,  elder, 
basil,  burnet,  garlic,  eschalot,  or  celery, 
wanning  it  with  cayenne,  or  the  various 
spices;  sweet,  savory,  fine  herbs,  truffles, 
ketchup,  &c.  &c.,  and  seem  to  consider 
mustard  merely  as  a  vehicle  of  flavors. 

MUSTARD  IN  A  MIM'Tll.  Mix 
very  gradually,  and  nib  together  in  a  mortar, 
an  ounce  of  flour  of  mustard,  with  three  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  milk  (cream  is  better),  half 
a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  the  same  of  sugar; 
nib  them  well  together  till  quite  smooth. 
Obs. — Mustard  made  in  this  manner  is  riot 
at  all  bitter,  and  is  therefore  instantly  ready 
for  the  table. 

MUTTON.  (1)  The  pipe  that  runs  along 
the  bone  of  die  inside  of  a  chine  of  mutton 
ought  to  be  taken  away ;  and  if  it  is  to  be 
kept  any  length  of  time,  the  part  close  round 
tlie  tail  should  be  rubbed  with  salt,  previously 
cutting  out  the  kernel. 

It  is  IK-SI  for  the  butcher  to  take  out  the 
kernel  in  the  fat  on  the  thick  part  of  tlie  leg, 
as  that  is  the  part  most  likely  to  become 
tainted.  The  chine  and  rib-bones  should  be 
wiped  every  day ;  and  the  bloody  part  of  tlie 
neck  be  cut  off,  in  order  to  preserve  it.  The 
brisket  changes  tirst  in  the  breast;  therefore, 
if  it  is  to  IK-  kepi,  it  is  Ix-st,  should  the 
weather  be  hot,  to  nib  it  with  a  little  salt. 

When  intended  tor  roasting,  it  should  hang 
as  Ion*,'  as  it  will  keep,  tlie  hind  quarter 
particularly ;  but  not  so  long  as  to  become 
tainted. 

Mutton  for  boiling  ought  not  to  hang 
long,  as  it  will  prevent  its  looking  of  a  good 
color. 

The  greatest  care  should  be  taken  to  pre- 
serve, by  paper,  the  fat  of  what  is  roasted. 

MUTTON.  (2)  As  beef  requires  a  large, 
sound  fire,  mutton  must  have  a  brisk  and 
sharp  one.  If  you  wish  to  have  mutton 
tender,  it  should  be  hung  almost  as  long  as 
it  will  keep;  and  then  good  eight-tooth,  t.  e. 


MU  T 


119 


MUT 


fcur  yean  old  mutton,  is  aa  good  eating  as 

venison. 

The  teg,  haunch,  and  saddle  will  !»  the 
better  tor  being  hung  up  in  a  cool  airy  place 
for  four  or  five  days  at  least;  in  temperate 
weather,  a  week  ;  in  cold  weather,  ten  days. 

A  Leg,  of  eight  [XMinds,  will  take  alx>ut 
two  hours:  let  it  U;  MB  boated,  and  frothed. 

A  Chine  or  Saddle,  («'.  e.  the  two  loins) 
of  ten  or  eleven  pounds,  two  hours  and  a 
half:  it  is  the  business  of  the  butcher  to  lake 
olf  the  .-kin  and  skoxvcr  it  on  again,  to  defend 
tin.-  incut  from  extreme  heat,  and  preserve  its 
succulence;  if  this  is  Baghdad,  tie  a  sheet 
of  pajx-r  oxer  it  (baste  tlie  strings  you  tie  it 
on  with  directly,  or  they  will  burn):  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  before  you  think  it  will 
lie  done,  take  oft'  tile  skin  or  paper,  that  it 
,i  pale  brown  color,  then  l>aste  it  and 
flour  it  lightly  to  froth  it.  N.  B.  Desire 
the  butcher  to  cut  oft'  the  fla|>s  and  the  tail 
and  chump  end,  and  trim  away  ever)'  jwrt 
that  lias  not  indisputable  pretensions  to  !•• 
eaten.  This  \\  ill  reduce  a  saddle  of  eleven 
pounds  weight  to  alxnit  six  or  seven  |x>unds. 

A  SAotuoer,  of  seven  pounds,  an  hour  and 
a  half.  1'nt  the  spit  in  close  t<j  the  shank- 
bone,  and  mi1  it  along  die  blade-lx>ne. 
N.  B.  The  blade-lxnic  is  a  favorite  luncheon 
or  supper  relish,  scored,  pep|x-red  and  salt- 
ed, and  broiled,  or  done  in  a  Dutch  oven. 

A  Loin,  of  mutton,  from  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  an  hour  and  three-quarters.  The 
most  elegant  way  of  carving  this,  is  to  cut  it 
lengthwise,  as  yon  do  a  saddle.  N.  B.  Spit 
il  on  a  skewer  or  lark  spit,  and  tie  that  on 
the  common  spit,  and  do  not  spoil  the  meat 
by  running  the  spit  through  the  prime  part 
of  it. 

A  Neck,  alxMit  the  sairx-  time  as  a  loin. 
It  inn-it  !»•  carefully  jointed,  or  it  is  xeix 
difficult  to  cane.  The  m-ck  and  breast  are, 
i  ,  -mall  families,  commonly  roasted  togvther  ; 
the  cook  will  llini  crack  the  Ixmrs  across  tin- 
middle  before  the\  are  (Hit  down  to  roast :  if 
this  is  not  donf  carefully,  they  are  very 
troublesome  to  carve.  Tell  tin-  cook,  when 
she  take-  il  from  the  spit,  to  sc|>ar:ite  them 
More  .-In-  sends  ih.-ni  to  talde.  .\.  B.  The 
lx>t  way  to  spit  this  is  to  nm  iron  skewers 
across  it,  and  put  the  spit  Itetwcen  them. 

A  Breast,  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 

Ml  TTO.N.  I'.AKKD  WITH  POTA- 
TOES. See  Beef. 

MI'TTO.X  I'.ur.AST  COLLARED. 
Bone  it  and  take  out  all  the  grilles, 
make  n  .  idi  crumlw  of  bread, 

chopped  )Kir-!ry,  ;\  little  lemon  thyme,  au<l 
ORB  anchovy  minced;  season  \\ith  salt  and 
while  |»  1 1; i.  .  ,  rub  llie  mutton  oxer  xxith  an 

it  witli  tin-   : 
ri/ll  it  (irmly;   tie  it  with  tape,  and  put  il  on 


in  boiling  water.  Make  a  good  gravy  of 
the  bones,  two  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley 
and  lemon  thyme,  pepper  and  salt;  strain 
and  thicken  it  xvith  a  piece  of  Ixuter  mixed 
with  flour.  A  little  before  serving,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  vinegar  and  txvo  of  mush- 
room ketchup.  Garnish  with  cut  lemon  or 
pickles. 

MUTTON,  BREAST,  ROASTED 
WITH  WINE.  Skin  and  bone  a  breast  of 
mutton,  then  roll  it  up  in  a  collar  like  a 
hreu.-t  of  xeal.  Roast  it,  and  baste  it  with 
half  a  pint  of  red  \vine;  when  you  have  used 
up  all  the  wine,  finish  basting  with  butter. 
Have  a  liltle  good  gravy  in  readiness,  and 
when  the  mutton  is  done,  set  it  upright  in  a 
dish,  pour  in  the  gravy,  prepare  sxxeet  sauce 
the  same  as  for  venison,  and  send  it  up  to 
table  xx  it  lion t  any  garnish. 

MUTTON  BROTH.     Cut  a  neck   of 

mutton  into  pieces,  preserving  a  hands  >nx.' 
piece  to  be  served  up  in  the  tureen;  put  all 
into  a  stexxjian  xx  ith  three  quarts  of  cold  beef 
stock,  or  water,  xvith  a  little  oatmeal  mixed 
in  it;  some  turnips,  onions,  leeks,  celery  cut 
in  pieces,  and  a  small  bunch  of  thyme  and 
parsley.  When  it  boils,  skim  it  clean,  and 
xx  lien  nearly  done,  takeout  the  piece  you  in- 
tend to  serve  in  the  tureen,  and  let  the  other 
pieces  stexv  till  tender;  then  have  ready  tur- 
nips cut  into  dice,  some  leeks,  celery,  half  a 
cabljage,  somr  parsley,  all  cut  small,  and 
some  marigolds;  wash  them,  strain  the  li- 
quor off  the  meat,  skim  it  free,  from  the  fat, 
add  it  to  the  ingredients  xvith  tlie  piece  of 
mutton  intended  for  the  tureen,  adding  a  lit- 
tle pearl  barley.  Season  xvith  salt,  simmer 
all  together  till  done,  and  serxe  xxith  toasted 
bread  on  a  plate. 

MUTTON  CHOPS.  Cut  the  chop 
off  a  loin  or  tlie  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton, 
pare  off  tlie  tat,  dip  them  into  a  beaten  egg, 
ami  strexx  oxer  them  grated  bread,  seasoned 
xvith  |X-|>|XT,  salt,  and  some  finely  minced 
(Kir-Icy ;  fry  them  in  a  liltle  butter,  and  lay 
them  u|xm  the  back  of  a  sieve  to  drain  be- 
fore th;-  lire.  Thicken  about  half  a  pint  of 
gravy,  add  a  lab|c-s|>oonfiil  of  ketchup,  and 
one  of  Port  wine;  put  the  graxy  into  the  dish, 
ami  lay  in  tlio  chops;  garnish  xvith  fried 
parsley  or  cut  lemon. 

MUTTON  CHOPS,  BAKED.     Cut  a 

nock  of  mutton  into  neat  chops,  so;ison  them 
xvith  salt  and  |x-p|xr,  Ixttler  a  dish,  lay  in 
the  cho|  s  and  |x.ur  oxer  them  a  batter  made 
of  a  quart  of  milk,  four  eggs  beaten  up,  four 
iabli--.-|XHinfiils  nf  dour,  and  a  liltle  salt.  An 
hour  xx  ill  bake  them. 

MUTTON    CHOPS    MAI.NTENON. 


MUT 


120 


MUT 


Cut  a  neck  of  mutton  into  chops ;  beat  them 
flat  with  a  rolling-pin.  Bruise  the  yolk  of 
a  hard-boiled  egg,  and  mix  with  it  chopped 
sweet  herbs,  grated  bread,  nutmeg,  salt,  and 
pepper.  Cover  the  steaks  witli  It,  and  put 
each  into  a  piece  of  well-buttered  paper; 
broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  of- 
ten. Serve  them  in  die  paper,  6r  with  a 
browned  gravy. 

MUTTON  CUTLETS.  Cut  into  cut- 
lets a  pound  and  a  half  of  the  thick  part  of 
a  leg  of  mutton,  and  beat  them;  mix  with 
grated  bread  crumbs,  some  pepper,  salt,  and 
finely  chopped  parsley,  lemon  thyme,  and 
sweet  marjoram.  Rub  die  cutlets  with  nielt- 
cd  butter,  and  cover  them  thickly  with  the 
prepared  bread;  fry  them  for  ten  minutes  in 
butter,  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
some  good  gravy  diickened  with  flour  and 
butter,  and  simmer  diem  for  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes. 

MUTTON  FILLET,  STEWED.   Put 

a  fillet  of  mutton  or  a  piece  of  beef,  weigh- 
ing about  seven  pounds,  into  a  stewpan,  with 
a  carrot,  a  turnip,  an  onion  stuck  with  two 
or  du-ee  cloves,  and  a  pint  of  water.  Put 
round  the  edge  of  the  stewpan,  a  rim  of 
coarse  paste,  that  the  cover  may  be  kept 
very  close,  and  let  it  stew  gently,  three  hours 
and  a  half;  take  out  the  meat,  skim  oft"  the 
fat,  strain  and  thicken  the  gravy,  have  ready 
some  boiled  carrots  and  turnips  cut  to  fancy, 
add  them  to  the  gravy,  make  all  hot,  and 
serve  with  a  garnish  of  sliced  gherkins. 

MUTTON  CUTLETS  BREADED  AND 
BROILED.  Trim  and  season  your  cutlets 
with  pepper  and  salt,  put  them  into  some 
melted  butter,  and  when  diey  have  imbibed 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  it,  take  them  out,  and 
cover  them  completely  with  bread  crumbs; 
give  die  cutlets  a  good  shape,  and  broil  them 
over  a  clear  fire ;  take  care  not  to  do  die  cut- 
lets too  much,  to  burn  the  bread. 

MUTTON  GRAVY  FOR  VENISON 
OR  HARE.  The  best  gravy  for  venison  is 
that  made  with  the  trimmings  of  the,  joint: 
if  dlis  is  all  used,  and  you  have  no  undressed 
venison,  cut  a  scrag  of  mutton  in  pieces; 
broil  it  a  little  brown;  dien  put  it  into  a 
clean  stewpan,  with  a  quart  of  boiling  wa- 
ter ;  cover  il  close,  and  let  it  simmer  gently 
for  an  hour:  now  uncover  die  stewpan,  and 
let  it  reduce  to  diree-quarters  of  a  pint ;  pour 
it  through  a  hair-sieve ;  take  the  fat  off,  and 
send  it  up  in  a  boat.  It  is  only  to  be  sea- 
soned widi  a  little  salt,  that  it  may  not  over- 
power die  natural  flavor  of  die  meat. 

MUTTON,  TO  HASH.  Cut  the  meat 
into  thin  slices,  trim  off  all  die  sinews,  skin, 


gristle,  &c. ;  put  in  nothing  l*it  what  is  to 
lie  eaten,  lay  them  on  a  plate,  ready;  pre- 
pare your  sauce  to  warm  it  in,  put  in  die 
meat,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  till  it  is  thor- 
oughly warm:  do  not  let  it  boil,  us  that  will 
make  die  meat  tough  and  hard,  and  it  will 
be  a  harsh,  instead  of  a  hash.  Select  for 
your  hash  those  parts  of  die  joint  diat  are 
least  done.  Hashing  is  a  mode  of  cookery 
by  no  means  suited  to  delicate  stomachs: 
unless  the  meat,  be  considerably  under-done 
die  first  time,  a  second  dressinu  must  spoil 
it,  tor  what  is  done  enough  the  first  time, 
must  be  done  too  much  die  second. 

MUTTON  HAM,  TO  CURE.    Cut  a 

hind  quarter  of  IM  »>d  mutton  into  the  sliaj>e  of 
a  ham,  pound  one  ounce  of  salt]>etre,  with 
one  pound  of  coarse  salt  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  brown  sugar,  rub  die  ham  \\  ell  with 
this  mixture,  taking  care  to  stutV  the  hole  of 
the  shank  well  with  salt  and  sugar,  and  let 
it  lie  a  fortnight,  nibbing  it  well  \\  ith  the 
pickle  every  two  or  three  days ;  then  take 
it  out  and  press  it  with  a  weight  for  one 
day;  smoke  it  with  saw-dust  for  ten  or  fif- 
teen days,  or  hang  it  to  dry  in  the  kitchen. 
If  die  ham  is  to  be  boiled  soon  after  it  has 
lieen  smoked,  soak  it  one  hour,  and  if  it  has 
been  smoked  any  length  of  time  il  will  re- 
quire to  be  soaked  several  hours.  Put  it  on 
in  cold  water,  and  boil  it  gently  two  hours. 
It  is  eaten  cold  at  breakfast,  luncheon,  or 
supper.  A  mutton  ham  is  sometimes  cured 
with  the  above  quantity  of  salt  and  sugar, 
with  the  addition  of  half  an  ounce  of  pepper, 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cloves,  and  one  nut- 
meg. 

MUTTON  HAUNCH,  LIKE  VENI- 
SON. Take  a  fat  haunch  of  large  fine 
mutton,  let  it  hang  a  week,  then  pound 
one  ounce  of  black,  and  one  ounce  of  Jamai- 
ca pepper,  and  rub  them  over  the  mutton, 
pour  a  bottle  of  Port  wine  over  it,  and  let  it 
remain  in  this  five  days,  basting  it  frequent- 
ly every  day  with  the  liquor,  take  it  out  and 
hang  it  up  four  or  five  days  more,  or  as  long 
as  die  weather  favors  its  keeping;  wipe  it 
three  or  four  times  a  day  with  a  clean  cloth. 
While  it  is  roasting  haste  it  with  the  liquor 
it  was  steeped  in,  adding  a  little  more  Port 
wine ;  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  taking  it 
from  die  fire,  baste  it  well  with  butter,  and 
dredge  flour  over  it  to  froth  it  up.  Serve  it 
widi  sauces  as  for  venison. 

MUTTON  HAUNCH.  It  should 
be  kept  as  long  as  you  can  possibly  keep  it 
sweet  by  the  different  modes ;  and  if  neces- 
sary, wash  it  with  warm  milk  and  water, 
or  vinegar,  and  when  going  to  be  dressed,  be 
careftil  to  wash  it  well,  to  prevent  die  out- 
side from  having  a  bad  flavor  from  keeping ; 


MUT 


121 


MUT 


before  you  put  the  haunch  to  the  fire,  fold  it 
in  a  paste  of  coarse  flour,  or  strong  pa|>er; 
then  set  it  a  good  distance  from  the  tire,  and 
allow  proportionable  time  for  the  paste;  do 
not  take  it  off,  till  about  thirty-five  or  forty 
minutes  before  serving  the  inntton,  and  then 
baste  continually;  bring  the  liauneh  nearer 
before  taking  oil'  the  paste,  and  tVntli  it  up 
in  the  same  manner  as  venison.  For  gravy, 
take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  loin  of  mutton, 
and  simmer  it  in  a  pint  of  water  till  reduced 
to  half,  use  no  seasoning  l>m  salt:  lirown  it 
with  a  little  Ixirnt  sii!*ar,  and  serve  it  up  in 
the  dish;  Inn  there  should  lie  a  good  deal  of 
gravy  in  tile  meat,  for  th»u<;h  long  at  the  fire, 
the  covering  and  distance  \\ill  pi-event  its 
roasting  out.  .Serve  with  currant-jelly  sauce. 

MUTTON  LEG.  (1)  If  your  leg 
of  mutton  is  roasted,  serve  with  onion  or 
currant-jelly  sauce  ;  if  it  is  boiled,  serve  with 
ca|>er-saiice  and  vegetables,  In  roasting  or 
boiling,  a  quarter  of  an  hour  is  usually  alloxv- 
ich  |xiimd  of  me.il. 

MI  T  TON  LEG.  (2)  Cut  off  (he  shank 
!*>ne,  and  trim  die  knuckle,  put  it  into  luke- 
warm water  for  ten  minutes,  wash  it  clean, 
cover  it  xvith  cold  water,  and  let  it  simmer 
very  gently,  and  skim  it  carefully.  A  leg 
of  nine  pounds  \xill  take  two  and  a  half  or 
three  hours,  if  yon  like  it  thoroughly  done, 
es|»'ciall\  in  very  cold  weather. 

The  tit-bits  with  an  epicure  are  the 
"  knuckle,"  ti>e  kernel,  railed  the  "pope's 
eye,"  and  the  "  gentleman's"  or  "  cramp 
bone." 

When  mutton  is  very  large,  you  may  di- 
vide it,  and  roast  thf  fillet,  i.  e.  the  laiire 
end,  and  boil  the  knuckle  end;  von  may 
also  cut  some  fine  cutlets  oft"  the  thick  end 
of  the.  !••!{,  and  so  have  two  or  three  good 
hot  dinners. 

The  liquor  the  mutton  it  boiled  in,  you 
may  convert  into  uo  «i  soup  in  five  minutes. 
'  -arley  bn  .th.  Thug  managed,  a 
leg  of  mutton  is  a  most  economical  joint. 

MITTON  LEG  STUFFED.      Make 

a  stuffing  xvith  a  little  Uvf-s.net  chopped, 
some  parsley,  thyme,  marjoram,  a  little 
grated  lemon,  miimc<r  grated,  pepper,  salt, 

and  a  few  bread  cnnnl*,  mix  all  together 
with  the  yolk  of  an  e_ri:.  put  this  under  the 
skin  in  the  thickol  |>aii  of  a  leu  of  million 
under  the  Hap;  then  roast  it,  and  serve  it  to 
table-  xvith  some  good  ^raxy  in  the  di.-lr 


N      I.K  ;     STI  TrT.D    xx  MM 
OTSTI.-  ...it  of  beefaiet, 

iled  eggs, 

with  ihi<   >  an  ,.  tin  me, 

savory,.  i  fourteen, 


all  cut  fine,  some  salt,  pepper,  grated  nut- 
meg, and  crumbs  of  bread,  mixed  up  with 
raw  eggs;  put  this  forcemeat  under  the  skin 
in  the  thickest  part  of  the  leg  of  mutton,  un- 
der the  flap,  and  at  the  knuckle.  For  sauoe, 
s e  oyster-liquor,  a  little  red  wine,  an  an- 
chovy, and  some  more  oysters  stewed,  and 
served  under  the  mutton. 

MUTTON  LOIN.  Roast  it;  some 
people  think  it  cats  much  better  if  cut  length- 
ways  like  a  saddle.  It  may  also  be  used 
for  steaks,  pies,  or  broth,  only  taking  care 
to  cut  off  as  much  fat  as  possible. 

MUTTON  LOIN,  STEWED.  Bone 
and  skin  the  loin;  stew  it  in  a  pint  of 
water,  turning  it  frequently;  when  tlie  li- 
quor is  half  wasted,  take  out  the  loin  and 
strain  it,  and  when  cold  take  off  the  fat; 
make  a  rich  highly-seasoned  gravy  of  the 
bones;  strain  and  mix  it  with  the  liquor  the 
loin  was  stewed  in;  add  a  tea-cupful  of 
Port  wine,  and  some  small  mushrooms; 
thicken  the  sauce  with  butter  rolled  in  flour; 
put  in  the  mutton,  and  heat  it  thoroughly; 
garnish  with  pickles. 

MUTTON  NECK.  (1)  This  joint  is 
[Kirticularly  useful,  as  so  many  dislies  may 
Ix:  made  of  it.  The  bone  ought  to  be  cut 
short. 

The  best  end  of  the  neck  may  be  boiled, 

and  served   with   turnips;   or   if"  you  think 

proper,  it    may  be    roasted,  or  dressed    in 

steaks,  or  made  into  pies,  or  used  for  harrico. 

)      You  may  stew  the  scrags  in  broth ;  or  in 

a  little  wafer,  with  small  onions,  some  pep- 

[MTcorns,  and   a  small  quantity  of  rice,  all 

;  served  together. 

When   you  wish  that  a  neck  which  is  to 

U-  Uiiled  should  look  particularly  xvell,  saw 

doxxn   the   chine   bone,  strip  the  ribs  half 

I  way  down,  and  chop  off  the  ends  of  the 

|  bones,  about  four  inches. 

To  make  the  fat  look  particularly  white, 
i  the  skin  should  not  be  taken  off  till  it  is 
i  boiled. 

The  fat  belonging  to  the  neck  or  loin  of 
mutton,  if  chopped  very  fine,  makes  a  most 
excellent  suet-pudding,  or  crust  for  a  meat 
pie. 

MUTTON  NECK.  (2)  Put  four  or 
fixe  pounds  of  the  best  end  of  a  neck  (that 
has  been  kept  a  few  days)  into  as  much  cold 
j  soft  water  as  will  cover  it,  and  about  two 
inches  over;  let  it  simmer  very  slowly  for 
two  hours:  it  will  look  most  delicate  if  you 
do  not  take  off  the  skin  till  it  has  been  boil- 
ed. 

MUTTON  PASTY,  TO  IAT  AS  iiicz 


MUT 


122 


MUT 


AS  VENISON.  Take  a  fat  loin  of  mutton, 
and  let  it  hang  for  several  days,  then  bone  it. 
Beat  it  well  with  a  rolling  pin;  then  rub 
ten  pounds  of  meat  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sugar,  and  pour  over  it  one  glass  of  Port, 
and  one  glass  of  vinegar.  Let  it  lie  for  five 
days  and  five  nights ;  after  which,  wash  and 
wipe  the  meat  very  dry,  and  season  it  highly 
with  Jamaica  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  salt. 
Lay  it  in  your  dish,  and  to  ten  pounds  put 
one  pound  of  butter,  spreading  it  over  the 
meat.  Put  a  crust  round  the  edge  of  the 
dish,  and  cover  with  a  thick  crust,  otherwise 
it  will  be  over-done  before  the  meat  is  soak- 
ed; it  must  be  b:iked  in  a  slow  oven. 

Put  the  bones  in  a  pan  in  the  oven,  with 
just  sufficient  water  to  cover  them,  and  one 
glass  of  Port,  a  small  quantity  of  pepper  and 
salt;  by  this  means  you  will  have  a  little  rich 
gravy  to  add  to  the  pasty  when  drawn. 

Sugar  gives  a  greater  shortness  to  meat, 
and  a  tetter  flavor  than  salt,  too  great  a 
quantity  of  which  hardens  the  meat.  Sugar 
is  quite  as  great  a  preservative. 

MUTTON  POLPETTES.  Take  the 
lean  of  any  joint  of  cold  roasted  mutton,  pare 
off  fhe  skin,  and  mince  the  meat  with  a  little 
grated  bacon  and  calf's  udder ;  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  a  few  mushrooms  and 
parsley,  shred  small;  unite  them  together 
with  the  yolks  of  tliree  eggs,  and  make  twelve 
or  fifteen  balls  of  it,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg, 
and  bread  them  twice.  Flatten  these  balls 
a  little,  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter; 
when  done,  drain  and  place  them  on  the 
dish.  Serve  them  with  tomato  sauce  or 
glaze. 

MUTTON,  ROLLED.  Bone  a  shoulder 
of  mutton  carefully,  so  as  not  to  injure  the 
skin,  cut  all  the  meat  from  the  skin,  mince 
it  small,  and  season  it  highly  with  pepper, 
nutmeg,  and  a  clove,  some  parsley,  lemon 
thyme,  sweet  marjoram  chopped,  and  a 
pounded  onion,  all  well  mixed,  together  with 
a  well-beaten  yolk  of  an  egg;  roll  it  up  very 
tightly  in  the  skin,  tie  it  round,  and  bake  it 
in  an  oven  two  or  three  hours,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  mutton.  Make  a  gravy  of  tl»e 
bones  and  parings,  season  with  an  onion, 
popper  and  salt,  strain  and  thicken  it  with 
flour  and  butter;  add  vinegar,  mushroom 
ketchup,  soy,  and  lemon  pickle,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  each,  and  a  tea-cupful  of  Port 
wine;  garnish  with  forcemeat  balls,  made 
of  grated  bread,  and  part  of  the  mince. 

MUTTON,  COLD  SHOULDER  BROIL- 
ED. A  cold  shoulder  of  roast  mutton  having 
only  a  little  meat  upon  the  blade  bone,  may 
be  scored,  sprinkled  with  pepper  and  salt, 
then  broiled  and  served  with  caper  sauce 


poured  over  it,  or  melted  butter,  in  -which 
should  be  mixed  of  mushroom  ketchup,  lemon 
pickle,  and  Harvey  sauce,  a  table-spoonful 
each. 

MUTTON  SHOULDER,  BAKED. 

Lard  a  shoulder  of  mutton  with  streaked 
bacon,  put  it  into  an  earthen  stewpan  pro- 
portioned to  the  size  of  the  joint  of  meat, 
with  two  or  tliree  sliced  onions,  a  parsnip 
and  carrot  sliced,  one  clove  of  garlic,  two 
cloves,  half  a  bay-leaf  and  some  basil ;  add 
about  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water  or  stock 
(stock  is  the  best),  some  salt  and  pepper; 
put  the  meat  into  the  sauce,  and  set  it  in  an 
oven.  When  the  meat  is  done,  strain  the 
sauce  through  a  sieve,  and  skim  it,  squeezing 
the  vegetables  so  as  to  make  a  thickening  for 
your  sauce:  serve  the  sauce  with  the  meat. 

MUTTON  SHOULDER,  STEWED. 
(1)  Bone  a  shoulder  of  mutton  with  a 
sharp  knife,  and  fill  the  space  with  the  fol- 
lowing stuffing: — grated  bread,  minced  suet, 
parsley,  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  bind 
with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  well  beaten. 
Sew  or  fasten  it  with  small  skewers;  brown 
it  in  a  frying-pan  with  a  bit  of  butter.  Break 
the  bone,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  some 
water,  an  onion,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  bunch 
of  parsley;  let  it  stew  till  the  strength  be 
extracted ;  strain,  and  thicken  it  with  butter 
rolled  in  flour;  put  it,  with  the  mutton,  and 
a  glass  of  Port  wine,  into  the  saucepan ;  cover 
it  closely,  and  let  it  stew  gently  for  two 
I  lours.  Before  serving,  add  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  mushroom  ketchup.  Garnish  with 
pickles. 

MUTTON  SHOULDER,  STEW- 
ED. (2)  Bone  and  flatten  a  shoulder 
of  mutton,  sprinkle  over  it  pepper  and 
salt,  roll  it  up  tightly,  bind  it  with  tape,  and 
put  it  into  a  stewpan  that  will  just  hold  it, 
pour  over  it  a  well-seasoned  gravy  made  with 
the  bones,  cover  the  pan  closely,  and  let  it 
stew  till  tender;  before  serving,  take  oft"  lie 
tape,  thicken  the  gravy,  and  garnish  with 
cut  pickles. 

MUITON  STEAKS,  BROILED.  Cut 

some  mutton  steaks  from  the  loin,  about 
half  an  inch  thick,  take  off  the  skin,  and  part 
of  the  fat.  As  soon  as  the  gridiron  is  hot, 
rub  it  with  a  little  suet,  lay  on  the  steaks 
(place  the  gridiron  over  the  fire  aslant),  turn 
the  steaks  frequently ;  when  they  are  done, 
put  them  into  a  hot  dish,  rub  them  with 
a  little  butter;  slice  a  shallot  very  thin  into 
a  s|joonful  of  water,  and  pour  it  on  them ; 
add  a  little  ketchup ;  garnish  with  scraped 
horse-radish,  and  pickles,  and  send  them  up 
hot  to  table. 


NOU 


123 


OAT 


N. 


NAPLES  CURD.  Put  into  a  quart  of 
new  milk  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  boil  it  a  few 
mini:''  -,  take  out  the  cinnamon,  and  stir  in 
eight  well-beaten  eggs,  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  white  wine ;  when  it  boils  again,  strain 
it  through  a  sieve ;  beat  the  curd  in  a  basin, 
together  with  about  half  an  ounce  of  butter, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  orange-flower  water, 
and  pounded  sugar  sufficient  to  sweeten  it. 
Put  it  into  a  mould  fur  two  hours  before  it 
is  sent  to  table.  White  wine,  sugar,  and 
cream,  may  be  mixed  together,  and  poured 
round  the  curd ;  or  it  may  be  served  in  a 
sauce  tureen. 

NASTURTIUMS  PICKLED.  As  soon 
as  the  blossoms  are  off,  gather  the  little 
knobs;  put  them  into  cold  water  with  some 
salt;  shift  them  once  a  day  for  three  suc- 
cessive days ;  make  a  cold  pickle  of  white 
wine  vinegar,  a  little  white  wine,  shallot, 
pepper,  cloves,  mace,  nutmeg,  cut  in  quar- 
horse-radish ;  and  put  your  nastur- 
tium buik  into  this  pickle. 

NEAT'S  TONGUE  FRESH,  IK  A 
PLAIN  WAY.  Lard  a  tongue  with  tolera- 
ble-sized lardons,  and  boil  it  in  broth,  or  in 
water,  with  a  few  onions  and  roots;  when 
it  is  done,  peel  it,  and  serve  it  with  broth, 
sprinkling  it  over  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt;  it  is  also  used  without  larding,  and 
being  boiled  fresh  in  this  manner,  is  consid- 
ered very  good  for  mince-pie  meat. 

NEAT'S  TONGUE,  ROASTED,  A  LA 
FRASCAISE.  Boil  a  neat's  tongue,  and 
Lhnrh  it ;  set  it  by  til!  it  is  cold,  then  cut  a 
hole  in  ill--  under  part,  and  take  out  the 
meat,  mince  it  with  two  or  three  hard  eggs, 
an  apple,  beef-suet,  and  bacon;  season  with 
salt,  Ix-aten  ginger,  and  sweet  herbs,  shred 
\cry  fine;  stuff  the  tongue  with  this  force- 
meat ;  then  cover  the  end  with  a  veal  caul, 
lard  it  with  bacon,  and  roast  it ;  serve  with 
a  sauce  made  of  gravy,  butter,  and  the  juice 
of  oranges,  garnish  the  dish  with  sliced  Jem- 
on-peel  and  barberries. 

NOUGAT.  Blanch  and  wash  a  pound 
of  sweet  almond.*,  and  ha\  ing  drained  them 
well,  cut  each  into  five  slips,  which  place  in 
a  gentle  oven  to  dry ;  let  them  be  all  equally 
colored  of  a  clear  yellow ;  in  the  meantime, 
put  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar 
into  a  preserving  pan,  set  it  on  a  stove,  stir- 
ring  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  completely 
dissolved ;  then  take  the  almonds  out  of  the 
oven,  and  whil.it  hot  throw  them  into  the  li- 
quid sugar;  mix  them  together  well.  I  In, 
l«ady  a  mould  well  oiled,  of  any  hhape  you 


think  proper,  in  the  interior  of  which  place 
the  slips  of  almonds,  by  means  of  lemon-juice, 
when  the  whole  is  covered,  remove  the  mould 
carefully,  and  serve  the  Nougat. 

NOYAU.  (1)  Peaches  and  nectarines, 
in  equal  quantities,  are  to  be  bruised,  die 
stones  broken,  and  the  kernels  blanched  and 
bruised ;  they  are  then  to  be  put  into  a  jar 
in  layers,  one  of  fruit,  one  of  kernels,  and 
one  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  so  on  until 
the  jar  is  full;  as  much  white  brandy  is 
then  to  be  added  as  the  jar  will  hold;  and 
when  it  has  stood  for  five  or  six  montlis,  it 
is  to  be  filtered  and  bottled  for  use. 

NOYAU.  (2)  One  pound  of  bitter  al- 
monds, blanched,  is  to  be  steeped  three 
months  in  four  quarts  of  large-still  proof 
whisky,  or  pale  brandy,  four  pounds  of  loaf 
sugar  are  then  to  be  clarified  and  added  to 
the  strained  or  filtered  spirits,  together  with 
half  a  pint  of  pure  honey.  It  is  sometimes 
colored  with  a  little  cochineal;  and  may 
also  be  made,  allowing  three  parts  of  sweet, 
and  one  of  bitter  almond*. 

NOYAU.  (3)  The  rinds  of  three  large 
lemons,  half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and 
|x>undfid,  are  to  be  mixed  into  a  quart  of  the 
best  Hollands  gin,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
tailing  milk  being  added.  It  is  to  be  put 
into  a  bottle  or  jar,  and  shaken  every  day 
for  three  weeks,  and  then  filtered  through 
chamois  leather  or  blotting  paper,  when  it 
will  be  fit  for  use. 


O. 


OAT  CAKES— are  made  in  the  same 
manner  as  muffins,  using  sifted  oatmeal  in- 
stead of  flour,  and  three  gallons  of  water  in- 
stead of  two:  pull  the  dough  into  pieces, 
roll  and  finish  the  cakes  as  directed  for  muf- 
fins. When  wanted,  pull  the  edges  apart, 
toast  them  nicely  on  both  sides,  and  dien 
open  them  completely;  lay  in  small  piece* 
of  butter,  until  you  have  as  much  as»}ou  may 
want;  close  them  again,  set  them  before 
die  fire,  and  cut  each  in  halves  or  quarters. 

OATMEAL  PORRIDGE.  Boil  some 
\\.id  r  iii' a  saucepan  with  a  little  salt,  and 
stir  oatmeal  into  it  with  a  thevil;  when  of 
a  proper  thickness,  let  it  boil  for  four  or 
five  minutes,  stirring  it  all  the  time;  then 
pour  it  into  a  dish,  and  serve  widi  it  cream 
or  milk.  It  is  sometimes  eaten  with  porter 
and  sugar,  or  ale  and  sugar.  If  made  with 
milk  instead  of  water,  less  meal  is  requisite, 
and  it  is  then  eaten  with  cold  milk. 


OME 


124 


OME 


OLIVE  ROYALS.  Boil  one  pound  of 
potatoes,  and  when  nearly  cold  rub  them 
perfectly  smooth  with  four  ounces  of  flour 
and  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  knead  it  to- 
gether till  it  become  a  paste;  roll  it  out 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  into 
rounds,  and  lay  upon  one  side  any  sort  of 
cold  roasted  meat  cut  into  thin  small  bits, 
and  reasoned  with  pepper  and  salt ;  put  a 
very  small  bit  of  butter  over  it,  wet  the 
edges,  and  close  the  paste  in  the  form  of  a 
half  circle.  Fry  them  in  boiling  fresh  drip- 
ping of  a  light  brown  color ;  lay  them  be- 
fore the  fire,  on  the  back  of  a  sieve,  to  drain. 
Serve  them  with  or  without  gravy  in  the 
dish.  For  a  change,  mince  the  meat,  and 
season  it  as  before  directed.  The  potatoes 
should  be  very  mealy. 

OLIVES.  There  are  three  sorts,  the 
Italian,  Spanish,  and  French;  they  may 
be  had  of  various  sizes  and  flavors,  some 
prefer  one  sort,  and  some  another. 

The  fine  salad  oil  is  made  from  this  fruit, 
for  which  pui-|x>se  they  are  gathered  ripe; 
for  pickling  they  are  gathered  when  only 
half  ripe,  at  the  latter  end  of  June ;  they  are 
put  into  fresh  water  to  soak  for  a  couple  of 
days ;  after  this  they  are  thrown  into  lime- 
water,  in  which  some  pearl-ashes  have  been 
dissolved ;  in  this  liquor  they  lie  for  six  and 
thirty  hours ;  they  are  then  put  into  water 
which  has  had  bay-salt  dissolved  in  it;  this 
is  die  last  preparation,  and  they  are  sent 
over  to  us  in  this  liquor;  they  are  naturally, 
as  they  grow  on  the  tree,  extremely  bitter, 
and  therefore  all  these  preparations  are  nec- 
essary to  bring  them  to  their  fine  flavor.  To 
some  olives  they  add  a  small  quantity  of  es- 
sence of  spices,  which  is  an  oil  drawn  from 
cloves,  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  coriander,  and 
sweet  fennel-seed  distilled  together  for  that 
purpose ;  twelve  drops  are  sufficient  for  a 
bushel  of  olives ;  some  prefer  them  flavored 
with  this  essence. 

OMELETS      AND      VARIOUS       WATS 

OF  DRESSING  EGGS.  There  is  no  dish 
which  may  be  considered  as  coming  under 
the  denomination  of  a  made  dish  of  die  sec- 
ond order,  which  is  so  generally  eaten,  if 
good,  as  an  omelet;  and  no  one  is  so  often 
badly  dressed :  it  is  a  very  faithful  assistant 
in  the  construction  of  a  dinner. 

When  you  are  taken  by  surprise^nd  wish 
to  make  an  appearance  beyond  what  is  pro- 
vided for  the  every-day  dinner,  a  little  port- 
able soup  melted  down,  and  some  zest  and  a 
few  vegetables,  will  make  a  good  broth ;  a 
pot  of  stewed  veal  warmed  up ;  an  omelet ; 
and  some  apple  or  lemon  fritters,  can  all  be 
got  ready  at  ten  minutes  notice,  ami  with 
the  original  foundation  of  a  leg  of  mutton,  or 
a  piece  of  beef,  will  make  up  a  very  good 


dinner  when  company  unexpectedly  arrives, 
in  the  country. 

The  great  merit  of  an  omelet  is,  that  it 
should  not  be-  greasy,  burnt,  nor  too  much 
done:  if  too  much  of  the  white  of  the  eggs  is 
left  in,  no  ait  can  prevent  its  l>eing  hard,  if 
it  is  done:  to  dress  the  omelet,  the  fire 
should  not  be  too  hot,  as  it  is  an  object  to 
have  the  whole  substance  heated,  without 
much  browning  the  outside. 

One  of  the  great  errors  in  cooking  an  om- 
elet is,  that  it  is  too  thin;  consequently,  in- 
stead of  feeling  full  and  moist  in  the  mouth, 
the  substance  presented  is  little  better  than 
a  piece  of  fried  leather:  to  get  the  omelet 
thick  is  one  of  the  great  objects.  With  re- 
spect to  the  flavors  to  be  introduced,  these 
are  infinite;  that  which  is  most  common, 
however,  is  the  best,  viz.  finely  chopped 
parsley,  and  chives  or  onions,  or  eschalots: 
however,  one  made  of  a  mixture  of  tarragon, 
chervil,  and  parsley,  is  a  very  delicate  va- 
riety, omitting  or  adding  the  onion  or  chives. 
Of  the  meat  flavors,  the  veal  kidney  is  the 
most  delicate,  and  is  the  most  admired  by 
the  French:  this  should  be  cut  in  dice,  and 
should  be  dressed  (boiled)  before  it  is  added; 
in  the  same  manner,  ham  and  anchovies, 
shred  small,  or  tongue,  will  make  a  *ery 
delicately  flavored  dish. 

The  objection  to  an  omelet  is,  that  it  is 
too  rich,  which  makes  it  advisable  to  eat 
but  a  small  quantity.  An  addition  of  some 
finely  mashed  potatoes,  about  two  table- 
spoonfuls,  to  an  omelet  of  six  eggs,  will 
much  lighten  it. 

Omelets  are  often  served  with  rich  gra- 
vy ;  but,  as  a  general  principle,  no  substance 
which  has  been  fried  should  be  served  in  gra- 
w,  but  accompanied  by  it,  or  what  ou^ht  to 
eat  dry  and  crisp,  becomes  soddened  and 
flat. 

In  the  compounding  die  gravy,  great  care 
should  be  taken  dial  the  flavor  does  not  over- 
come that  of  the  omelet,  a  thing  too  little 
attended  to:  a  fine  gravy,  with  a  honoring 
of  sweet  herbs  and  onions,  we  think  the  l>est ; 
some  add  a  few  drops  of  tarragon  vinegar; 
but  this  is  to  be  done  only  with  great  care: 
gravies  to  omelets  are  in  general  thicken- 
ed: diis  should  never  be  done  with  (lour; 
potato  starch,  or  arrow-root,  is  the  best. 

Omelets  should  be  fried  in  a  small  fry- 
ing-pan made  for  dial  purpose,  with  a  small 
quantity  of  butter.  The  omelet' 
merit  is  to  be  diick,  so  as  not  to  taste  of  the 
outside;  therefore  use  only  half  die  number 
of  whites  that  you  do  yolks  of  eggs :  every 
care  must  be  taken  in  frying,  even  at  the 
risk  of  not  having  it  ([iiite  set  in  die  middle: 
an  omelet,  which  has  so  much  vogue 
abroad,  is  here,  in  general,  a  dlin  doubled- 
up  piece  of  leadier,  and  harder  dian  soft 
leadier  sometimes.  The  fact  is,  diat  as  much 


OME 


125 


ONI 


care  murt  be  bestowed  on  the  frying,  as 
should  be  taken  in  poaching  an  egg.  A 
salamander  is  necessary  to  those  who  will 
have  the  lop  brown ;  lx.it  the-  kitchen  shovel 

may  be  MI!M  itnted  for  it. 

The  followim:  receipt  is  tlie  basis  of  all 
omelets,  of  which  you  may  make  an  end- 
less variety,  by  taking,  instead  of  the  pars- 
ley and  eschalot,  a  portion  of  sweet  herbs, 
or  any  of  the  articles  used  for  making  force- 
meats, or  any  of  the  forcemeats. 

•-  are  callml  by  the  name  of  what 
is  added  to  flavor  them:  a  ham  or  tongue 
onii-let ;  an  anchovy,  or  veal  kidney  ome- 
let, Sic.:  the*1  are  prepared  exactly  in  the 
sunn-  way  a.»  in  the  first  receipt,  leaving  out 
the  pai>le\  ami  eschalot,  and  mincing  the 
ham  in-  kidnev  very  tine,  See.,  and  adding 
that  in  the  place  of  them,  and  then  pour  over 
them  all  sorts  of  thickened  gravies,  sauces, 
&c. 

OMKLET.  (1)  Five  or  six  eggs  will 
make  a  good-sized  omelet;  break  them 
into  a  li.i-ni.  and  Beat  them  well  with  a  fork ; 
and  add  a  salt-s|xMinful  of  salt;  have  ready 
two  drachms  of  onion,  or  three 
drachms  of  parsley,  a  good  clove  of  e-chalot 
miiired  very  line;  beat  it  well  up  with  the 
eg£>;  then  take  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
and  lireak  half  of  it  into  large  bits,  and  put 
it  into  tin-  omelet,  and  the  other  half  into 
a  very  clean  fi  s  ing-pan  ;  when  it  is  melted, 
pour  in  die  omelet,  and  stir  it  with  a  spoon 
till  it  begins  to  set,  then  turn  it  up  all  round 
the  edges,  and  when  it  is  of  a  nice  brown  it 
is  done:  the  safest  way  to  take  it  out  is  to 
put  a  plait:  on  tin-  omelet,  and  turn  the  pan 
ii|i:-ide-d'iwii:  serve  it  on  a  hot  dish;  it 
should  never  t>e  dune  till  just  wanted.  If 
maigre,  grated  cheese,  shrimps,  m 
If  oy-lers,  lx.il  them  tour  minutes,  and  take 
awav  tin-  lieard  ami  nri.-ily  part;  tliey  may 
cither  be  put  in  whole,  or  cut  in  bits. 

OMKLET.  (2)  Beard  and  parboil  twelve 
or  sixteen  oysters,  seasoning  them  with  a  few 

|n-p|H  i corns,  .-.train  and  chop  them;  beat 
well  >ix  eggs;  (Kirlxjil  and  mince  a  little 
par.- lex  ;  mix  all  together,  and  season  with  a 
little  nutmeg,  salt,  and  a  (able-spoonful  of 
iiiu>hi-iHim  ketchup;  fry  il  lightly  in  three 
i  I  Miller,  and  hold  it  for  a  minute  or 
two  U't'ore  the  fire. 

OMKLET.     (S)    Beat  well  and  nti.im-i\ 

"Id   them    to   three   ounces    of  butter 

made  hot  ;  mix  in  s  iim-  sjrale.l  ham,  pepper, 

sail,  and  nutmeg,  some  chopped  chives  and 

]vir>le\.      l-'iy  it  of  a  light  brown  color. 


some  salt  and  chopped  parsley;  then  beat 
them  well,  and  season  them  according  to 
taste,  then  have  ready  some  onion  chopped 
small ;  put  some  butter  into  a  fry  inn-pan,  and 
when  it  is  hot  (but  not  to  burn)  put  in  your 
chopped  onion,  giving  them  two  or  three 
turns ;  then  add  your  eggs  to  it,  and  fry  the 
whole  of  a  nice  brown,  you  must  only  fry 
one  side.  When  done,  turn  it  into  a  dish, 
the  fried  side  uppermost,  and  serve. 

OMELET  FRITTERS.  Make  two  or 
three  thin  omelets,  adding  a  little  sweet  ba- 
sil to  the  usual  ingredients;  cut  them  into 
small  pieces  and  roll  them  into  the  form  of 
olives;  when  cold,  dip  them  into  batter,  or 
enclose  them  in  puff  paste;  fry,  and  serve 
them  with  fried  parsley. 

OMELET  WITH  KIDNEY  OF 
VEAL.  To  eight  well-beaten  eggs,  add  a 
litile  salt,  and  part  of  a  cold  roasted  kidney 
of  veal,  finely  minced;  season  with  pepper, 
and  a  little  more  salt  ;  melt  in  a  fryinu-pan 
one  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter,  and  pour  in 
the  omelet  ;  fry  it  gently,  and  keep  the  mid- 
dle |>art  moist ;  when  done,  roll  it  equally 
u|Kiii  a  knife,  and  serve  it  very  hot. 

OMELET  AU  NATUREL.  Break 
eight  or  ten  eggs  into  a  pan,  add  pepper, 
salt,  and  a  spoonful  of  cold  water,  beat  them 
up  with  a  whisk;  in  the  meantime  put  some 
fresh  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  when  it  is  quite 
melted  and  nearly  boiling,  put  in  the  eggs, 
&c.  with  a  skimmer;  as.  it  is  frying,  take 
up  the  edges,  that  they  may  be  properly 
done;  when  cooked,  double  it;  serve  \.rv 
hot. 

ONIONS.     The  small  round  silver  button 
onions,  about  as  big  as  a  nutme<;.   make  a 
very  nice  pickle.     Take  off  their  topcoats, 
have  n  adv  a  stew  pan,  three  pails  tilled  w  ith 
boiling  water,  into  which  put  as  many  on- 
ions as  will  cover  the  (op:  as  soon  as  they 
look  clear,  immc-diately  take  them  up  with 
|  a  spoon  full  of  holes,  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth 
i  three    times    folded,  and  cover    them   with 
another  till  \oii  have  ready  as  many  as,  you 
wish:   when  they  are  quite  dry,  put  them  into 
I  jars,  and  cover  them  with  hot  pickle,  made 
i  by  infixing  an  ounce  of  horseradish,  same  of 
allspire,  and  same  of  lilack  [x-pppr,  and  same 
of  salt,  in  a  quart  of  best  white-wine  vinegar, 
in  a  stone  jar,  on  a  trivet  by  the  side  of  tlic 
I  fire  for  three  days,  keeping  it  well  closed ; 
when  cold,  bun;;  them  down  tight,  and  cover 
them  with  bladder  wetted  with  the  pickle 
and  lea  I  her. 


OMKLKT.  (4)  Take  as  many  eggs  as  OMONS  STKXVKI).  The  large  Por- 
you  think  prnjier  (according  to  the  size  of  tuiral  onions  are  the  U-st:  take  oft  the  top- 
vour  omrlet)  break  them  into  a  basin  with  '  coats  of  half  a  dozen  of  these  (taking  care 


ONI 


126 


OR  A 


not  to  cut  off  the  tops  or  tails  too  near,  or 
the  onions  will  go  to  pieces),  and  put  them 
into  a  ste\v|»n  broad  enough  to  hold  them 
without  laying  them  atop  of  one  another, 
and  just  cover  diem  with  good  broth.  Put 
them  over  a  slow  fire,  and  let  them  simmer 
about  two  hours;  when  yon  dish  them,  turn 
them  upside  down,  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

ONIONS  TO  PICKLE.  Peel  the  onions 
till  they  look  white;  boil  some  strong  salt 
and  water,  and  pour  it  over  them ;  let  them 
stand  in  this  twenty-four  hours,  keep  die 
vessel  closely  covered  to  retain  die  steam: 
after  that  time  wipe  die  onions  quite  dry, 

and  when  they  are  cold,  pour  boiling  vinegar, 

.  .      .          *    .      i. 
with  singer  and  white  pepper   over  them. 

Take  care  the  vinegar  always  covers  the 
onions. 

ONION  SAUCE,  YOUNG.    Peel  a 

pint  of  button  onions,  and  put  diem  in  water 
till  you  want  to  put  diem  on  to  boil;  put 
them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quart  of  cold 
water;  let  them  boil  till  tender;  diey  will 
take  (according  to  their  size  and  age)  from 
half  an  hour  to  an  hour. 

ONION  SAUCE.  Those  who  like  the 
full  flavor  of  onions  only  cut  off  die  strings 
and  tops  (without  peeling  off  any  of  the 
skins),  put  diem  into  salt  and  water,  and  let 
diem  lie  an  hour;  then  wash  them,  put  them 
into  a  kettle  with  plenty  of  water,  and  boil 
them  till  diey  are  tender:  now  skin  them, 

!>ass  them  through  a  colander,  and  mix  a 
ittle  melted  butter  widi  diem.  N.  B.  Some 
mix  the  pulp  of  apples,  or  turnips,  widi  die 
onions,  others  add  mustard  to  diem. 

ONIONS,  TO  PREPARE  FOR  SEA- 
SONING. Peel  and  mince  three  or  four 
onions,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  lit- 
tle cold  water.  Let  diem  l»il  till  (|iiite 
tender,  and  then  pulp  diem  with  the  liquor 
through  a  hair  sieve,  when  it  may  be  mixed 
widi  any  made  dishes  or  sauces. 

ONIONS    YOUNG,    TO    PICKLE. 

Choose  some  of  the  small  silver  onions,  put 
them  on  in  cold  water,  and  when  it  is  scald- 
ing hot,  take  them  out  with  an  egg  slice; 
peel  off  die  skins  till  they  look  white  and 
clear;  lay  them  into  the  folds  of  a  cloth. 
Boil,  in  a  quart  of  vinegar,  half  an  ounce  of 
pepper,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  allspice,  die 
same  of  garlic,  and  one  sliced  nutmeg;  put 
tin-  onions  into  a  jar,  and  pour  over  them 
the  boiling  vinegar  and  spices.  When  cold, 
tie  leather  over  die  jar. 

ONIONS,  PLAIN  BOILED.  Peel 
them,  and  let  them  lie  an  hour  in  fold  water, 
put  them  on  in  bo  i  I'm!;  milk  and  water; 


boil  diem  till  tender,  and  cerve  diem  with 
melted  butter  poured  over  them. 

ONIONS,  ROAST.  Roast  them  with 
the  skins  on  in  a  Dutch  oven,  that  they  may- 
brown  equally.  They  are  eaten  with  cold 
fresh  butter,  pep|>er,  and  salt. 

ONIONS  STEWED.  (1)  Take  a  dozen 

of  good-sized  onions,  |>eel  and  put  them  on 
in  the  following  sauce : — A  pint  of  veal  si<  n-k , 
a  bit  of  butler  rolled  in  flour,  a  little  pep|ier, 
and  salt.  Stew  them  gently  for  an  hour, 
and,  just  before  serving,  mix  in  three  table- 
spoonfnls  of  cream.  To  stew  them  in  a 
brown  sauce,  take  die  same  quantity  of  good 
gravy.  In  a  stewpan  brown,  of  a  li . 
lor,  a  little  butter  and  flour,  add  tin-  ui,i\y 
and  onions,  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  anil 
stew  diem  gendy  one  hour. 

ONIONS  STEWED.  (2)  Peel  five  or 
six  large  onions,  put  them  into  a  Dutch  oven 
or  cheese-toaster  to  roast,  turn  them  frequent- 
ly, and  when  they  are  well  browned,  put 
them  into  a  saucepan,  with  a  lx>ne  of 
or  undressed  meat,  a  slice  of  bacon,  a  little 
water,  and  some  pepper.  Co\er  tlie  pan 
closely,  and  stew  them  till  tender.  Take 
out  die  bone  and  die  bacon;  thicken  die 
sauce  with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour. 

ORANGE  BISCUITS.  Take  the  grat- 
ed rind  of  an  orange,  six  frcr-h 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  and  diree-qnar- 
ters  of  a  pound  of  powder  sugar ;  put  these 
into  a  mortar,  beat  them  to  a  paste,  which 
put  into  cases,  and  bake  like  other  bis- 
cuits. 

ORANGE  CHEESECAKES.  To  IK 
made  in  the  same  way,  as  lemon  cheese- 
cakes. 

ORANGE  CREAM,  FROTH F.D.  Make 
a  pint  of  cream  tery  sweet,  put  it  over  the 
fire,  let  it  just  boil,  put  die  juice  of  a  larye 
orange  into  a  small  deep  glass,  hating  pre- 
vioiisK  st«vj>vd  a  bit  of  orange-peel  |i>r  ;» 
short  time  in  the  juice,  when  the  cream  is 
almost  cold,  pour  it  out  of  a  tea-pot  iijxm 
die  juice,  holding  it  as  high  as  possible. 

ORANGE  CUSTARD.  Having  toiled 
the  rind  of  a  Seville  orange  very  tender,  beat 
it  in  a  mortar  to  a  fine  paste ;  put  to  it  die 
juice  of  a  Seville  orange,  a  spoonfid  of  die 
best  brandy,  four  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  and 
die  yolks  of  four  eggs ;  beat  them  all  well 
toge'dier  ten  minutes,  then  pour  in  by  degrees 
a  pint  of  boiling  cream;  keep  beating  it  till 
cold ;  put  it  into  custard  glasses.  Set  them 
in  an  eartlicn  dish  of  hot  water;  let  them 
stand  till  they  are  set,  dien  stick  preserved 


ORA 


127 


OVE 


orani."'.  or  orange  chips,  on  the  top. 
be  >er\ed  hot  or  cold. 


It  may 


ORANGE  FOOL.  Take  the  juice  of 
six  oranges,  six  eggs  well  beaten,  a  pint  of 
cream,  a  quarter  of  ,i  pound  of  siupir,  a  littk- 
cinnamon  and  nutmeg.  Mix  all  well  togeth- 
er; .-•tii  it  OUT  a  slow  fire  till  thick,  then  put 
in  a  Mnall  piece  of  butter,  and  keep  stirring 
it  till  cold. 

ORANGE  GINGERBREAD.  Sift  two 
pounds  and  a  quarter  of  fine  tlour,  and  add 
to  it  a  pound  and  three-quarters  of  treacle, 
six  ounces  of  candied  orangc-|>ecl  cut  small, 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  moist  sugar,  one 
ounce  of  Around  ^inu'er,  and  one  ounce  of 
allspice :  melt  to  an  oil  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  butter;  mix  the  whole  u 
er,  and  lay  it  by  for  twelve  hours;  roll  it 
out  with  as  little  flour  as  possible,  about 
half  an  inch  thick;  cut  it  into  pieces  three 
inches  I. .nt;  and  two  wide;  mark  them  in 
the  torn!  of  checkers  with  the  back  of  a 
knife;  put  them  on  a  l>aking-platc  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  apart;  rub  them  over  with 
a  linish  di|>|x.-d  in  the  yolk  of  an  egi:  l>e,u  uj> 
will)  a  !••;-•  uplhl  of  milk;  bake  it  in  a  cool 
oven  alxjiit  a  quarter  of  an  hour:  when  done, 
wash  them  slightly  over  again,  divide  the 
pieces  with  a  knife  (as  in  baking  they  will 
tun  together). 

O ! !  \  M  .  i ".  LIQUOR.  To  each  orange, 
one  quart  of  strong  spirit*,  and  one  pound 
and  a  quarter  ot'loat'.-mgar  are  allowed;  six 
or  eight  rlo\es  are  to  lie  stuck  into  each  or- 
an^e,  which,  with  tlie  spirits  and  sugar,  is 
to  IM-  |xit  into  a  jar.  It  must  !»•  <  i 
cred,  and  stirred  occasionally  in  tin'  i •••ur-. 
of  two  months;  it  is  then  to  be  tillered  through 
hlotlini:  paper,  and  Ixitflcd  t 

Ix-moii  liquor  ig  made  in  the  same  way, 
substituting  lemons  (iir  orange*.  Instead  of 
mixing  the  sugar  with  the  oilier  materials  in 
'.lie  jar,  it  may  Ix'  mad:-  into  a  simp,  and 
added  to  the  trained  or  filtered  spirits. 
This,  tlioiiuli more  troublesome,  will  be  found 
a  Ixjtler  method. 

OR\N<;K  OR  LEMON-I'EEL.  T-» 

MI\  WIIH  MI  KKIM;.  IVel  a  S.-ville  or- 
lemon,  very  thin,  taking  off  only  the 
v  rind  (without  any  ..f  the  white): 
pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a  hit  of  lump  su- 
gar; nib  it  well  with  the  peel;  l>y  degrees 
add  a  little  of  the  forcemeat  it  is  ID  be  miv  I 
with:  when  it  \g  well  ground  and  blended 
with  this,  mix  it  with  tlie  whole:  there  is 
no  otln  i  way  of  incorporating  it  so  well. 
Forcenr-ai-.  Xc.  are  frequently  spoiled  by 
tlie  instiilicient  mixing  of  the  ingredients. 

ORANGE  SIRUP,  FOR  PUNCH  OR 
PUDDING.  See  Juttict. 


ORANGEADE.  (1)  Squeeze  the  juice; 
pour  some  lx>iling  water  on  the  peel,  and 
cover  it  closely ;  Ixiil  water  and  sugar  to  a 
thin  simp,  and  skim  it ;  when  all  are  cold, 
mix  the  juice,  tin:  infusion,  and  tlie  sirup, 
with  as  much  water  as  will  make  a  rich 
sherlx-t ;  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag. 

ORANGEADE.  (2)  This  refreshing 
beverage  is  made  precisely  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  lemonade,  only  substituting  oranges 
for  lemons. 

ORANGE   PEEL   RATAFIA.      Put 

the  peels  of  a  dozen  thick-skinned  oranges 
into  a  gallon  of  brandy ;  dissolve  two  pounds 
of  sugar  in  the  juice  of  the  oranges,  add  to  it 
the  brandy,  and  having  stirred  them  togeth- 
er well,  close  the  vessel  tightly,  and  leave  it 
for  a  month ;  then  strain  it  off,  and  bottle  it. 

ORGEAT.  (1)  Pound  very  fine  one 
pound  of  Jordan,  and  one  ounce  of  bitter, 
almonds,  in  a  marble  mortar,  with  halt"  a  gill 
of  oranu'e-tlower  water  to  keep  them  from 
oiling;  then  mix  with  ihein  one  pint  of 
rose  and  one  pint  of  spring-water ;  rub  it 
through  a  tamis  cloth  or  lawn  sieve,  till  the 
almonds  are  quite  dry,  which  will  reduce  the 
quantity  to  about  a  quart :  have  ready  three 
pints  of  clarified  sugar  or  water,  and  boil  it 
to  a  iT.ick  (which'  may  be  known  by  dipping 
your  fingers  into  tlie  sugar,  and  then  into 
cold  water ;  and  if  you  find  the  sugar  to  crack 
in  moving  your  finger,  it  has  boiled  enough)  ; 
put  in  the  almonds;  boil  it  one  minute,  and 
when  cold  put  it  into  small  bottles  close 
corked;  a  table-spoonful  of  which  will  be 
sufficient  for  a  tumbler  of  water:  shake  the 
Ix.ttk-  Ix-lore  using.  If  the  orgeat  is  for 
present  use,  the  almonds  may  l)e  [xiunded  as 
•I  o\e,  and  mixed  with  one  quart  of  water, 
one  quart  of  milk,  a  pint  of  eapillaire  or 
clarified  sugar,  nibbed  through  a  tamis  or 
line  ,-ii-ve,  au'i  put  into  decanters  for  use. 

ORGEAT.  (2)  A  quarter  of  a"  pound 
.  and  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  bitter 
almond*,  are  tolx<  blanched,  and  thrown  into 
cold  water,  then  IXM-CII  in  a  marble  mortar, 
and  moistened  ix-ca.-ioually  with  a  S|u>ouful 
of  milk,  to  prevent  tlicir  oiling;  three  pints 
of  milk  are  then  to  bo  mixed  uradnaliy  with 
them,  and  after  being  sweetened,  boiled, 
stirred  till  cold,  ami  strain* >!,  a  glass  of  wine 
or  brandy  is  to  Ix- added. 

OVEN,  Di:,T.»TloNS  FOR  THE. 
IV  \cr\  careful  to  keep  your  oven  clean,  and 
that  then-  are  no  remains  of  snin»r  or  fat  that 
may  have  rim  OTOT  from  any  tiling  that  lias 
I  ecu  baking.  Pull-pastes  require  a  mode- 
rately hot  men.  but  not  too  hot,  or  it  will 
,-poil  the  sha|X-  and  turn  it  over;  tart-|Ki£te, 


oxc 


128 


OYS 


or  short  crust,  requires  a  slower  oven;  pe- 
tits-bhoux,  one  still  slower;  hut  for  raised 
pies,  let  it  be  as  hot  as  for  puff-paste  at  first, 
and  well  closed,  so  that  the  pies  may  not  fall. 
Therefore,  when  you  give  a  dinner  where 
pnste  is  necessary,  endeavor  to  make  it  in 
the  morning;  heat  your  oven  first  for  the 
puff-paste,  which  must  be  baked  the  first; 
then  let  the  oven  go  gradually  down,  and 
bake  your  pastes  in  rotation,  as  the  heat 
falls.  Savoy  biscuits  require  a  cool  oven, 
and,  by  degrees,  raise  the  heal  as  die  biscuits 
are  baking.  For  souffles  or  light  puddings, 
have  a  gentle  oven,  and  contrive  BO  as  to  have 
them  ready  by  the  time  they  are  wanted,  or 
they  will  fall.  The  greatest  attention  should 
also  be  paid  in  heating  the  oven  for  baking 


cakes,  particularly  for  those  that  are  large. 
If  not  pretty  quick,  die  batter  will  not  rise. 
Should  you  fear  its  catching  by  being  too 
quick,  put  paper  over  the  cake  to  prevent  its 
being  burnt.  If  not  long  enough  lighted  to 
have  a  body  of  heat,  or  if  it  has  become 
slack,  the  cake  will  be  heavy.  To  know 
when  it  is  soaked,  take  a  broad  bladed 
knife  that  is  very  bright,  and  plunge  it  into 
the  centre  ;  draw  it  instantly  out,  and  if  the 
least  stickiness  adheres,  put  the  cake  imme- 
diately in,  and  shut  up  the  oven.  Il'ihe  heat 
was  sufficient  to  raise,  but  not  to  soak,  fresh 
fuel  must  be  quickly  put  in,  and  the  cakes 
kept  hot  until  die  oven  is  fit  to  finish  the 
soaking,  but  this  must  only  be  done  in  a  ease 
of  great  emergency;  for  those  who  are  em- 
ployed ought  to  be  particularly  careful  dial 
no  mistake  occur  from  negligence. 

OX-CHEEK  STEWED.  Prepare  this 
the  day  before  it  is  to  be  eaten  ;  clean  it,  and 
put  it  into  soft  water  just  warm;  let  it  lie 
dirce  or  four  haul's,  then  put  it  into  cold  wa- 
ter, and  let  it  soak  all  night;  next  day  wipe 
it  clean,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  just  cover 
it  with  water;  skim  it  well  when  it  is  com- 
ing to  a  boil,  then  put  two  whole  onions, 
stick  two  or  diree  cloves  into  each,  three 
turnips  quartered,  a  couple  of  carrots  sliced, 
two  bay-leaves,  and  twenty-four  corns  of  all- 
spice, a  head  of  celery,  and  a  bundle  of 
sweet-herbs,  pepper,  and  salt  ;  to  these, 
those  who  are  for  a  "  haut  gout  "  may  add 
cayenne  and  garlic,  in  such  proportion  as 
tiii  palate  that  requires  them  may  desire. 
Let  it  stew  gently  till  perfectly  tender,  t.  e. 
about  three  hom-s;  then  take  out  die  cheek, 
divide  it  into  handsome  pieces,  fit  to  Help  at 
table;  skim,  and  strain  the  gravy;  melt  an 
ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  in  a  slew  pan  ;  M  ir 
into  it  as  much  flour  as  it  will  take  up;  mix 
with  it  by  degrees  a  pint  and  a  half  of  the 
gravy  ;  add  to  it  a  table-spoonful  of  basil, 
tarragon,  or  elder  vinegar,  or  die  like  quan- 
tity of  mushroom  or  walnut  ketchup,  or  cav- 
ice,  or  Port  wine,  and  give  it  a  boil. 


OX  CHEEK,  TO  BOIL.  Wash  very 
clean,  half  a  head;  let  it  lie  in  cold  water 
all  night;  break  the  bone  in  two,  taking  care 
not  to  break  the  flesh.  Put  it  on  in  a  pot 
of  boiling  water,  and  let  it  l>oil  from  two  to 
three  hours;  take  out  the  bone.  Serve  it 
widi  boiled  carrots  and  turnips,  or  savoys. 
The  liquor  the  head  has  been  boiled  in  may 
be  strained  and  made  into  Scots  barley  broth, 
or  Scots  kale. 

OX  FEET  JELLY.  Put  a  little  hot 
water  over  the  top  of  the  stock,  pour  it  off, 
and  wi|>e  it  dry  with  a  clean  cloth ;  put  a 
quart  of  it  into  a  saucepan  with  the  beaten 
whites  of  five  or  six  eggs,  the  juice  of  five 
lemons  made  very  sweet  with  good  brown 
sugar,  a  clove  or  two,  and  a  little  cinna- 
mon pounded;  let  it  boil  twenty  minutes, 
stirring  it  all  the  time ;  take  it  off  the  fire, 
and  add  a  pint,  or  half  a  pint  of  white 
\vine,  and  run  it  through  a  jelly-bag  till 
clear. 

OX-TAILS  STEWED.  Divide  them 
into  joints;  wash  them;  parboil  them;  set 
them  on  to  stew  in  just  water  enough  to 
cover  them, — and  dress  them  in  the  same 
manner  as  we  have  directed  in  Stewed  Gib- 
lets, for  which  diey  are  an  excellent  substi- 
tute. 

OYSTERS.  Some  piscivorous  gour- 
mands diink  that  oysters  are  not  best  when 
quite  fresh  from  their  l>eds,  and  that  their 
flavor  is  too  brack isli  and  harsh,  and  is  much 
ameliorated  by  giving  diem  a  feed. 

To  FEED  oysters. — diver  them  with 
clean  water,  with  a  pint  of  salt  to  alxnit  two 
gallons  (nothing  else,  no  oatmeal,  flour,  nor 
any  other  trumpery);  this  will  cleanse  them 
from  the  mud  and  sand,  &c.  of  the  bed ;  af- 
ter they  have  lain  in  it  twelve  hours,  change 
it  for  fresh  salt  and  water,  and  in  twelve 
hours  more  they  will  be  in  prime  order  for 
the  mouth,  and  remain  so  two  or  three  days: 
at  the  time  of  hi<jh  water  you  may  see  them 
open  their  shells,  in  expectation  of  receiving 
their  usual  food.  This  process  of  li  cding 
oysters  is  only  employed  when  a  gn-a!  many 
come  up  together. 

Common  |>eople  are  indifferent  about  the 
manner  of  opening  oysters,  and  the  time  of 
eating  them  after  they  are  opened ;  nothing, 
however,  is  more  important  in  the  enlight- 
ened eyes  of  die  experienced  oyster-eater. 

Those  who  wish  to  enjoy  this  delicious 
restorative  in  its  utmost  perfection,  must 
eat  it  the  moment  it  is  opened,  with  its  own 
gravy  in  the  under  shell ;  if  not  eaten  while 
absolutely  alive,  its  flavor  and  spirit  are  lost. 

Shell-iish  have'  long  held  a  high  rank  in 
the  catalogue  of  easily  digestible  and  sjieedi- 
ly  restorative  foods;  of  these  the  oy=ter  cer- 


O  YS 


129 


OYS 


tainly  deserves  the  best  character,  but  we 
think  it  has  acquired  not  a  little  more  repu- 
tation for  th<M-  qualities  than  it  de^ 
well-die-*  '1  chop  or  sneak,  will  imigorate 
the  heart  in  a  much  higher  ratio;  to  recruit 
the  animal  spirits,  and  sup|>ort 
there  is  nothing  equal  to  animal  tood;  when 
kept  till  pnnx'iK  tender,  none  will  give  so 
little  trouble  to  flic-  digestive  organs,  .mil  s.i 
much  ;iibs.tantial  excitement  to  the  constitu- 
tion. 

<  IYSTKU  ATTELETS.  Cut  into  small 
pieces  a  sweetbread  and  a  slice  or  two  of 
bacon,  U-ard  some  large  oysters,  and  season 
all  liighlv  with  chopped  parsley,  shallot,  a 
little  tin  me,  [vp[»-r  and  salt.  Then  fasten 
them  alternately  upon  wire  skewers;  put 
sifted  bread  crumbs  over  them,  and  broil  or 
fry  them  of  a  light  brown  color.  Take  them 
oft' tint  skewers,  and  serve  them  with  some 
rich  gravy,  to  which  add  a  little  ketchup  and 
lemon  pickle. 

OYSTERS,  BAKED.     Grate  a  small 

loaf  of  ,-tal'-  In. -ad.  Butteradeep  dish  well, 
and  i  "\'  r  the  sides  and  bottom  with  bread 
crumbs.  1'ut  in  half  the  oysters  with  a  lit- 
••  and  pepper.  Cover  tliem  with 
•nl  small  bits  of  butter  strewed  over 
tJicm.  Then  put  in  the  remainder  of  the 
oysters.  Season  them.  Cover  them  as 
U-f  ire  with  crumbs  and  butter.  If  the  oys- 
ters are  fresh  pour  in  tlie  liquor.  If  they 
are  salt,  substitute  a  little  water.  Bake  it  a 
ver\  short  time. 

OYSTERS,  FRIED.  (1)  Make  a  batter 

as  fur  pancakes,  seasoned  with  grit.  !  nut- 
meg, white  pepper,  and  salt,  and  add  sonic 
finely  grati-d  bread  crnmlis;  dip  in  the  oys- 
ters, and  fry  them  of  a  light  brown  in  beef 
•jrippi 

Another  way  is,  to  dip  them  into  the  white 
of  an  egg  beat  up,  and  roll  diem  in  finely 
grated  bread  crumbs,  seasoned  with  grated 
nutmeg,  [>epix.-r  ami  salt,  and  fry  them  as 
directed. 

<nsTERS,  FRIED.  (2)  The  largest 
and  Hnest  oysters  are  to  be  chosen  for  this 
:  -imnier  them  ill  their  own  liquor 
l:  i  a  couple  of  minutes,  take  them  out  and 
lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain,  beard  them  and 
dien  flour  them,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them, 
put  them  into  boiling  fat,  and  fry  them  a 
delicate  brown.  Ob*. — An  elegant  garnish 
for  made  dishes,  stewed  rump-steaks,  boiled 
or  fried  li.-h,  Sic.;  but  they  are  too  hard  and 
dry  to  be  eaten. 

OY-TI'KS,  FRIED.  (3)  For  frying, 
choose  the  largest  and  finest  oysters.  Beat 
•ome  yolki  of  eggs,  and  mix.  with  them  grat- 


ed bread,  and  a  small  quantity  of  beaten 
nnt:n.-_'  and  mace,  and  a  little  salt.  Hav- 
ing t-tirred  this  batter  well,  dip  your  oys- 
ters into  it,  and  fry  them  in  lard,  till  they 
are  of  a  light  brown  color.  Take- 
to  do  them  too  much.  Serve  them  up  hot. 
For  grated  bread,  some  substitute  ei  ackers 
|xnim!ed  to  a  powder,  and  mixed  with  yolk 
of  egg  and  spice. 

OYSTERS,  TO  KEEP  AND  FAT- 
TEN. Put  them  into  water,  and  wa-h  and 
clean  them  with  a  birch  broom ;  lav  ing  diem 
with  the  deep  shell  downwards  into  a  tub  or 
broad  platter,  and  then  .-prink  le  them  o\ei  w  ith 
salt.  The  follow-in;;  day  pour  over  them  and 
fill  the  vessel  widi  clean  cold  water,  in  which 
they  must  remain  an  hour,  then  pour  it  off 
again;  sprinkle  them  with  salt,  and  let  this 
be  repeated  every  day.  This  method  will 
keep  them  good  for  a  fortnight. 

OYSTER    KETCHUP.      (1)      Take 

line  frc.-h  o\strrs;  wash  them  in  -their  own 
liquor;  skim  it;  pound  them  in  a  marble 
mortar;  to  a  pint  of  o\sters  add  a  pint  of 
Sherry;  boil  them  up,  ami  add  an  ounce  of 
silt,  two  drachms  of  ponded  mace,  and  one 
of  cayenne;  k-t  it  just  boil  up  again;  skim 
it,  and  nib  it  through  a  sieve,  and  when  cold, 
bottle  it,  cork  it  well,  and  seal  it  down. 

.\.  15.  It  is  the  l>esi  way  to  pound  the  salt 
and  spices,  Jkc.  with  the  oysters. 

Obs. — This  composition  very  agreeably 
heightens  the  flavor  of  white  sauces,  and 
white  made-dishes;  and  if  you  add  a  glass 
of  brandy  to  it,  it  will  keep  good  for  a  consi- 
derable time  longer  than  oysters  are  out  of 
season. 

OYSTER  KETCHUP.  (2)  Boil  one 
hundred  oysters  with  tlieir  liquor,  till  the 
strength  be  extracted  from  them;  strain  them 
well,  and  add  to  the  liquor  an  equal  quanti- 
ty of  wine,  one  half  Port  and  the  other 
Sherry,  also  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace, 
die  same  of  white  pepper  and  of  allspice,  a 
dr.icliiu  or  lea-spoonful  of  ginger,  and  six 
- ;  boil  all  together  about  fifteen 
minute-*.  Put  into  ajar  twelve  shallots,  tlie 
l»-i  I  oi'a  lemon,  and  a  piece  of  horse-radish 
cut  small;  pour  upon  diem  the  boiling  li- 
quor, and  when  cold,  bottle  it,  together  with 
die  spices. 

OYSTER  LOAVES.  Cut  off  the  top 
of  some  small  French  rolls,  take  out  the 
crumb,  and  fry  them  brown  and  crisp  with 
clarified  Imlter,  tln-n  fry  some  bread  crumbs; 
stew  tin;  requisite  quantity  of  oysters,  beard- 
ed and  cut  in  two,  in  their  fiquor,  with  a 
littli-  white  wine,  some  gravy,  and  seasoned 
with  grated  lemon-peel,  pounded  mace,  pep- 
per, and  salt ;  add  a  bit  of  butter ;  fill  the 


O  YS 


130 


OYS 


rolls  with  the  oysters,  and  serve  them  with 
the  fried  bread  crumbs  in  the  dish. 

OYSTER  PATTIES.  (1)  Roll  out  puff 
paste  a  quarter  of  an  incli  thick,  cut  it  into 
squares  with  a  knife,  sheet  eight  or  ten  patty 
pans,  put  upon  each  a  bit  of  bread  die  size 
of  half  a  walnut ;  roll  out  another  layer  of 
paste  of  the  same  thickness,  cut  it  as  above, 
wet  die  edge  of  die  bottom  paste,  and  put 
on  die  top,  pare  diem  round  to  die  pan,  and 
notch  them  about  a  dozen  times  with  die 
back  of  the  knife,  rub  them  lightly  with  yolk 
of  egg,  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour:  when  done,  take  a  thin 
slice  off  the  top,  dien,  with  a  small  knife  or 
spoon,  take  out  die  bread  and  the  inside 
paste,  leaving  die  outside  quite  entire ;  then 
parboil  two  dozen  of  large  oysters,  strain 
them  from  their  liquor,  wash,  beard,  and  cut 
them  into  four,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  an  ounce  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  half 
a  gill  of  good  cream,  a  little  grated  lemon- 
peel,  die  oyster  liquor,  free  from  sediment, 
reduced  by  boiling  to  one  half,  some  cayenne 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  tea-spoonfiil  of  lemon- 
juice  ;  stir  it  over  a  fire  five  .minutes,  and 
fill  die  patties. 

OYSTER  PATTIES.  (2)  Make  some 
rich  puff  paste,  and  bake  it  in  very  small  tin 
patty-pans.  When  cool,  turn  diem  out  upon 
a  large  i^ish.  Stew  some  large  fresh  oysters 
widi  a  few  cloves,  a  little  mace  and  nutmeg, 
some  yolk  of  egg  boiled  hard  and  grated,  a 
little  butter,  and  as  much  of  the  oyster  liquor 
as  will  cover  them.  When  they  have  stew- 
ed a  little  while,  take  diem  out  of  die  pan, 
arid  set  diem  away  to  cool.  When  quite 
cold,  lay  two  or  three  oysters  in  each  shell 
of  puff-paste. 

OYSTER  PIE.  Beard  a  quart  of  fine 
oysters,  strain  die  liquor,  and  add  diem  to 
it.  Cut  into  thin  slices  the  kidney  fat  of  a 
loin  of  veal;  season  diem  with  while  pep- 
per, salt,  mace,  and  grated  lemon-peel ;  lay 
diem  on  the  bottom  of  a  pie  dish,  put  in  die 
oysters  and  liquor,  with  a  little  more  season- 
ing ;  put  over  diem  die  marrow  of  two  bones. 
Lay  a  border  of  puff  paste  round  die  edge  of 
die  dish ;  cover  it  with  paste,  and  bake  it 
pearly  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

OYSTERS,    PRESERVED.      Open 

the  oysters  carefully,  so  as  not  to  cut  diem 
except  in  dividing  the  gristle  which  attaches 
the  shells;  put  diem  into  a  mortar,  anc 
when  you  have  got  as  many  as  you  can  con- 
veniently pound  at  once,  add  about  two 
drachms  of  salt  to  a  dozen  oysters ;  pounc 
diem,  and  jrub  diem  through  die  back  of  a 
hair  sieve,  and  put  diem  into  a  mortar  again 
with  as  much  flour  (which  has  been  pre- 


viously thoroughly  dried)  as  will  make  diem 
into  a  paste ;  roll  it  out  several  times,  and, 
lastly,  flour  it,  and  roll  it  out  die  thickness 
of  a  half-crown,  and  divide  it  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  square;  lay  them  in  a  Dutch 
oven,  where  diey  will  dry  so  gently  as  not  to 
get  burnt:  turn  them  every  half  hour,  and 
when  they  begin  to  dry,  crumble  diem ;  diey 
will  take  about  four  hours  to  dry;  dien 
pound  them  fine,  sift  them,  and  put  diem 
into  bottles  and  seal  diera  over. 

N.  B.  Three  dozen  required  seven  and  a 
half  ounces  of  dried  flour  to  make  them  into 
a  paste  which  then  weighed  eleven  ounces; 
when  dried  and  powdered,  six  and  a  quar- 
ter ounces. 

To  make  half  a  pint  of  sauce,  put  one 
ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  with  three 
drachms  of  oyster  powder,  and  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk ;  set  it  on  a  slow  fire;  stir 
it  till  it  boils,  and  season  it  with  salt. 

This  powder,  if  made  with  plump,  juicy 
oysters,  will  abound  with  the  flavor  of  die 
fish;  and  if  closely  corked,  and  kept  in  a 
dry  place,  will  remain  good  for  sometime. 

This  extract  is  a  welcome  succedaneum 
while  oysters  are  out  of  season,  and  in  such 
inland  paits  as  seldom  have  anv,  is  a  valua- 
ble addition  to  die  list  of  fish  sauces:  it  is 
equally  good  widi  boiled  fowl,  or  rump  steak, 
and  sprinkled  on  bread  and  butter  makes  a 
very  good  sandwich,  and  is  especially  wor- 
thy the  notice  of  country  housekeepers,  and 
as  a  store  sauce  for  die  army  and  navy. 

OYSTERS,  TO  PICKLE.  Open  diem 
carefully,  preserving  all  their  liquor;  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  over  die  fire,  stirring 
them  now  and  then,  and  when  die  liquor 
boils  take  diem  off,  skim  die  surface,  and 
put  die  oysters  into  a  bowl ;  let  die  liquor 
settle,  pour  off  die  clear  part,  and  put  it  on 
to  boil,  widi,  to  three  hundred  oysters,  half 
an  ounce  of  whole  black  pepper,  a  litde 
mace  and  allspice ;  boil  it  ten  minutes,  dien 
add  die  oysters,  and  let  diem  boil  two  min- 
utes ;  put  diem  into  a  jar,  and  when  diey 
are  cold,  tie  a  paper  over  it. 

'  OYSTER  SAUCE.  When  your  oys- 
ters are  opened,  take  care  of  all  the  liquor 
and  give  diem  one  boil  in  it.  Then  take 
die  oysters  out,  and  put  to  die  liquor  diree 
or  four  blades  of  mace.  Add  to  it  some 
melted  butter,  and  some  thick  cream  or 
rich  milk.  Put  in  your  oysters  and  give 
diem  a  boil. 

OYSTERSOUP.  (1)  Threepintsoflarge 
fresh  oysters.  Two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter, rolled  in  flour.  A  bunch  of  sweet  herbs. 
A  quart  of  rich  milk.  Pepper  to  your  taste. 
Take  the  liquor  of  diree  pints  of  oysters. 
Strain  it,  and  set  it  on  die  fire.  Put  into  it, 


OYS 


131 


OYS 


pepper  to  your  taste,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet 
marjoram  and  other  pot-herbs.  Wbeo  ii 
boili  add  a  quart  of  rich  milk — and  as  soon 
as  it  boils  again  take  out  the  herl*-,  and 
put  in  die  oysters  just  before  you  send  it  to 
table. 

OYSTER  SOUP.  (2)  Boil  in  water  the 
crumb  of  two  twopenny  roll-*,  with  a  few  blades 
of  mure,  a  tea-spoonful  of  whole  while  pop- 
per, and  lour  onions  cut  small.  Pick  out 
the  spice,  and  nib  the  bread  and  unions 
through  a  hair  sieve,  then  add  it  to  three 
ijiian.s  <>f  \\i  11-x  , isotied  strong  veal  stock. 
Kul>  down  three  ounces  of  butter,  with  a 
tal>le->|xioutul  of  Hour,  and. mix  it  gradually 
with  half  a  pint  of  the  soup,  and  then  stir  all 
well  together.  When  it  has  boiled  a  short 
time,  add  with  the  liquor  half  a  hundred  or 
more  of  fine  oysters,  and  let  the  whole  sim- 
mer for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  If  the  soup 
is  not  quite  salt  enough  with  the  liquor  of 
the  "\-iii-,  a  little  salt  may  be  added. 

OYSTERS  SCALLOPED.  (1)  Put 
them,  with  their  liquor  strained,  two  or  three 
blades  of  m  i<  e.  a  lew  peppercorns,  a  little 
cayenne,  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  kneaded  with  Hour,  into  a  stewpan. 
Simmer  them  very  gently  for  half  an  hour, 
In  mi  means  lettini;  them  boil;  pick  out  tile 
marc  ;UK|  |>e|>|>er;  have  ready,  finely  grated 
bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with  pepper  and 
salt ;  put  into  the  scallop-shells,  or  into  a 
dish,  alternately  a  lajer  of  bread-crumbs, 
then  one  of  oysters  and  part  of  their  liquor; 
and  s-tirk  over  the  l:i.-t  layer  of  bread-crumbs 
a  few  bits  of  butter,  and  brown  them  in  a 
Dutch  o\eii  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minute:!. 

OYSTERS  SCALLOPED.  (2)  Take 
off  the  beards,  stew  tliem  in  their  liquor 
strained,  with  a  little  mace,  while  pepper, 
and  .-.ill.  Fry  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  bit  of 
butter,  some  grated  bread-cnimlis,  till  of  a 
nice  brown;  |>ut  them  alternately  with  the 
oysters  into  a  dish. 

OYSTERS    SCALLOPED.      (3)     A 

good  way  to  warm  up  any  cold  fish.  Stew 

is  slowK  iii  their  own  liquor  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  take  them  out  with  a  spoon, 
lieard  them,  ami  -kim  the  liquor,  put.  a  bit 
of  butter  into  a  slew|>an;  when  it  is  melted, 
add  as  much  fine  bread-crumbs  as  will  dry 
it  up,  then  put  to  it  the  oyster  liquor,  and 

E'w    il  a  lx>il  up,  p,,t    the  Oysters  into  scal- 
Hs!iell>  that  you  have  Ixittered,  and  strew- 
wilh    breaif-crumUi,  then  a  layer  ..f  oys- 
ters, then  of  bread-crombe,  and   i 
more  oysters;  moisten  it  with  die  oyster  li- 


quor, cover  them  with  bread-crumbs,  put 
about  half  a  dozen  little  bits  of  butter  on  the 
top  of  each,  and  brown  them  in  a  Dutch  ov- 
en. Essence  of  anchovy,  ketchup,  cayenne, 
grated  lemon-peel,  mace,  and  other  spices, 
&c.  are  added  by  those  who  prefer  piquance 
to  the  genuine  flavor  of  the  oyster. 

Cold  fish  may  be  re-dressed  the  same  way 
N.  B.  Small  scallop-shells,  or  saucers  that 
hold  about  half  a  dozen  oysters,  are  the  most 
convenient. 

OYSTERS  STEWED.  (1)  Stew  with 
a  quart  of  oysters,  and  their  liquor  strained, 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  one  anchovy  bruised, 
seasoned  with  white  pepper,  salt,  a  little 
mace,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ;  let  all 
Blew  gently  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Pick  out 
the  bunch  of  herbs,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter  kneaded  in  a  large  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  flour,  and  stew  them  ten  or 
twelve  minutes.  Serve  them  garnished  with 
bread-sippets  and  cut  lemon.  They  may  be 
stewed  simply  in  their  own  liquor,  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg,  and 
thickened  with  cream,  flour,  and  butter. 

OYSTERS  STEWED.  (2)  Open  the 
oysters  and  strain  the  liquor.  Put  to  them 
some  grated  stale  bread,  and  a  little  pepper 
and  nutmeg.  Throw  them  into  the  liquor, 
and  add  a  glass  of  white  wine.  Let  them 
stew  but  a  very  short  time,  or  thev  will  I*- 
hard.  Have  ready  some  slices  of  buttered 
toast  with  tlie  crust  off.  When  the  oysters 
are  done,  dip  the  toast  in  die  liquor,  and 
lay  the  pieces  round  the  sides  and  in  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  dish.  Pour  the  oysters  and 
liquor  upon  the  toast  and  send  them  to  ta- 
ble hot. 

OYSTERS  STEWED.  (3)  Large  oys- 
ters will  do  for  stewing,  and  by  some  are  pre- 
ferred. Stew  a  couple  of  dozen  of  these  in 
their  own  liquor;  when  they  are  coming  to  a 
I  xiil,.. kim  well,  take  them  up  and  beard  them; 
strain  the  liquor  through  a  tamis-sieve,  and 
lay  the  oysters  on  a  dish.  Put  an  ounce  of 
butter  into  a  stewpan ;  when  it  is  melted, 
pit  to  it  as,  much  Hour  as  will  dry  it  up,  the 
liquor  of  the  oysters,  and  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  milk  or  cream,  and  a  little  white  pep- 
per and  salt ;  to  this  some  cooks  add  a  little 
ketchup,  or  finely-chopped  parsley,  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  juice;  let  it  boil  up  for  a 
couple  of  minutes,  till  it  is  smooth,  tlien  take 
it  off  tlie  fire,  put  in  the  oysters,  and  let  them 
get  warm  (iliey  must  not  tliemselves  be  boil- 
ed, or  they  will  become  hard) ;  line  the  bot- 
tom and  sides  of  a  lia.-h-di-h  with  bread- 
sippets,  and  |xmr  your  oysters  and  sauce 
into  it. 


PAN  132 


PAN 


P. 


PALATES   AND  SWEETBREADS. 

Boil  the  palates  till  the  black  skin  can  be 
easily  peeled  off;  parboil  the  sweetbreads 
with  tlirin ;  skin  and  cut  the  palates  into 
pieces,  and  if  the  sweetbreads  are  large,  cut 
them  in  two  the  long  way ;  dust  them  with 
flour,  and  fry  them  of  a  light  brown,  in  but- 
ter; then  stew  them  in  rather  more  than  a 
pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  boiled. 
Brown  a  piece  of  butter  with  flour;  add 
it,  with  a  little  cayenne,  salt,  pep|>er,  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  nutmeg,  and  a  glass  of  white 
wine.  A  little  before  serving,  stir  in  a 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  or  die  squeeze  of  a  lem- 


PANADA.  (1)  Boil  some  pieces  of  stale  | 
bread  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  cold  water 
to  cover  them,  with  a  little  cinnamon,  lemon- 
peel,  and  caraways;  when  the  bread  is  quite 
soft,  press  out  all  the  water,  and  beat  up  die 
bread  widi  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a  little 
milk,  and  sugar  to  die  taste;  a  little  spice 
may  be  added. 

PANADA.  (2)  Set  a  little  water  on 
the  fire  wid)  a  glass  of  white  wine,  some  su- 
gar, a  very  little  nutmeg,  and  lemon-peel ; 
meanwhile  grate  seme  crumbs  of  bread:  die 
moment  die  water  boils  up,  put  in  the  bread- 
crumbs (without  taking  it  off  die  fire),  and 
let  it  boil  as  fast  as  it  can.  When  of  a 
proper  consistence,  that  is,  when  just  of  a 
sufficient  thickness  to  drink,  take  it  off  die 
fire. 

PANCAKES  AND  FRITTERS.  Break 
three  eggs  in  a  basin ;  beat  diem  up  widi  a 
little  nutmeg  and  salt ;  then  put  to  them  four 
ounces  and  a  half  of  flour,  and  a  little  milk ; 
beat  it  of  a  smooth  batter ;  dien  add  by  de- 
grees as  much  milk  as  will  make  it  of  die 
thickness  of  good  cream:  the  frying-pan  muse 
be  about  die  size  of  a  pudding  plate,  and 
very  clean,  or  diey  will  stick ;  make  it  hot, 
and  to  each  pancake  put  in  a  bit  of  butter 
about  as  big  as  a  walnut:  when  it  is  melted, 
pour  in  the  batter  to  cover  the  bottom  of  die 
pan;  make  diem  die  diickness,  of  half  a 
crown;  fry  diem  of  a  light  brown  on  both 
sides.  The  above  will  do  for  apple  fritteis, 
by  adding  one  spoonful  more  of  flour;  peel 
your  apples,  and  cut  diem  in  thick  slices ; 
take  out  die  core,  dip  diem  in  die  batter, 
and  fry  diem  in  hot  lard;  put  diem  on  a 
sieve  to  drain ;  dish  them  neatly,  and  grate 
some  loaf-sugar  over  diem. 


PANCAKES  IN  APPLES.  Cut  some 
apples  very  small,  stew  them  with  a  litde 
white  wine,  grated  lemon-peel,  pounded  cin- 
namon, and  brown  «eugar ;  mash  them,  and 
spread  it  over  pancakes ;  roll  them  up,  and 
serve  with  sifted  loaf-sugar  over  them. 

PANCAKES  COMMON.  Widi  near- 
ly half  a  pound  of  flour,  mix  five*  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  dien  add,  by  degrees,  a  quart  of 
good  milk;  fry  them  in  I'rcsh  lard,  and 
serve  them  with  pounded  loaf-sugar  strewed 
between  each. 

PANCAKES  FINE.  To  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  add  six  well-beaten  eggs, 
diree  table-spoonfuls  of  white  wine,  four 
ounces  of  melted  butter  nearly  cold,  the  same 
quantity  of  pounded  loaf-sugar,  half  a  grated 
nutmeg,  and  a  pint  of  cream;  mix  it  well, 
beating  die  batter  for  sometime,  and  poor 
it  dun  over  the  pan. 

PANCAKE,  RICE.  Add  to  three  well- 
beaten  eggs  a  pint  of  new  milk,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  boiled  rice,  some  sugar,  and  a 
little  pounded  cinnamon;  mix  it  all  well  to- 
gether, and  fry  it  in  butter;  brown  the  up- 
per side  for  a  minute  before  die  fin 
it,  cut  into  four,  with  pounded  sugar  strewed 
over  it. 

PANCAKE  RISSOLES.  Mince  fine- 
ly some  cold  veal,  season  it  with  grated  lem- 
on-peel, nutmeg,  jjepper,  salt,  and  a  little 
lemon  pickle;  warm  it  up  with  some  good 
gravy,  and  a  small  bit  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour.  Have  i-eady  a  batter  as  for  pancakes, 
seasoned  widi  a  little  salt  and  grated  nutmeg. 
Fry  a  thin  pancake,  turn  it,  and  put  into 
the  middle  two  table-spoonfuls  of  die  minced 
veal ;  fold  it  in  at  each  side  and  at  the  ends 
in  an  oblong  form,  and  fry  them  of  a  light 
brown  color  ;  lay  tliem  upon  the  back  of  a 
sieve  to  drain  before  die  fire.  Four  or  six 
will  make  a  dish.  They  are  served  as  a 
corner  or  top  dish. 

PANCAKES,  SCOTCH.  Mix  with 
six  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  a  little  cream,  add 
die  beaten  yolks  of  six  cu'irs,  and  then  mix  in 
a  pint  of  cream,  die  grated  peel  of  a  small 
lemon,  a  table-spoonful  of  pounded  sugar, 
and  a  litde  ratafia;  wlien  the  baiter  is  very 
well  beaten,  and  just  licforc  using,  mix  in 
the  whites  of  die  eggs  Ix'atcn  with  a  knife, 
to  a  stiff  frodi.  Put  a  little  butter  or  lard 
into  die  frying-pan,  make  it  hot,  pour  it  out, 
and  wipe  die  pan  with  a  clean  clodi;  put  in 
some  butter  or  lard,  and  when  hot,  pour  in  a 
tea-cupful  of  die  batter:  shake  it,  and  when 
firm,  prick  it  a  little  with  a  fork,  but  do  not 
turn  it;  hold  it  before  the  fire  a  minute  to 


PAR 


133 


PAR 


brown.     Serve  them  with  pounded  loaf-su- 
gar strewed  over  them. 

PANCAKE,  THICK.  Beat  separate- 
Jy  the  yolks  and  whiles  of  two  • 
with  the  \olks  :i  t:ib:e-s|xxmful  ;im)  a  hull" of 
flour,  a  link'  suipir  ;iiid  white  wine,  half  a 
pint  of  cream  in-  :;o'jd  milk;  add  ihe  whites, 
and  fry  it  in  a  broad  saucepan,  w  ith  Inittcr 
or  clarified  met ;  brown  the  upper  side  be- 
fore the  fire;  warm  any  sort  of  preserve, 
spread  it  ti|><iii  one  half,  and  turn  tlie  oilier 
over  it,  and  strew  upon  it  |x>undcd  loaf  su- 
gar. 

I  'A  \  \  1  .<  l  PETS.  Put  into  a  pan,  two 
ounces  of  sifted  flour,  four  of  powder-sugar, 

of  hitter  macaroons,  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  dried  oranuc-tlowers ;  break  up  all 
these  articles,  and  mix  with  them  the  yolks 
often  e^'i;s,P(ur  large  glasses  of  double  cream, 
and  a  pinch  of  salt.  \Va.-h  the  bottom  of  a 
ftying-pan  lightly  with  some  warm  clarified 
butter,  then  put  in  it  a  s|x>onful  of  the  above 
prepanition,  spread  it  over  tlie  pan,  to  make 

as  thin  as  [x.ssible;  when  the pan- 
nequet  liecoines  lightly  colored,  turn  it  over 
carefully,  and  dc  tlie  other  side ;  then  put  it 
on  a  tin  plate,  spread  a  little  apricot  marma- 
lade over,  and  ha\  ing  stre\ved  crushed  maca- 
roons on  that,  roll  up  the  pannequel  till  about 
an  inch  in  diameter;  in  the  meantime  put  a 
second  s|XM>nful  of  your  preparation  into  the 
pan,  and  proceed  in  the  alxive  manner,  gar- 
nishing one  pannequet  whilst  another  it 
cooking;  taking  rare,  howe\er,  to  set  tlie 
l>aii  over  a  gentle  lire.  When  all  are  done, 
cut  the  punnrtpiets  three  inches  in  length, 
glaze,  and  di^h  them. 

P  \IISl.r.Y.  To  preserve  parsley  through 
the  winter: — in  May,  June,  or  July,  take, 
line  fresh-gathered  sprigs:  pick,  and  wash 
them  clean ;  set  on  a  stew  pan  half  full  of  wa- 
ter; put  a  little  salt  in  it;  Ixiil,  and  skim  it 
1. 1  then  |>ut  in  the  panley,  and  let  it 
Ixjil  lor  a  couple  of  minute-;  lake  it  out,  and 
lay  it  on  a  sieve  before  the  fire,  that  it  may 
\x-  dried  as  i|iiick  as  |x>ssjlilc;  put  it  by  in  a 
tin  box,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry  place:  when 
you  want  it,  lay  it  in  a  basin,  and  cover  it 
with  warm  w  aier  a  few  myiutes  before  you 
use  it. 

1' \USI.l.y    BUTTER.      Wash  gome 

'••an,  and  pick  it  carefully  leaf 

by  leaf;    put  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  into  half 

a   pint  of  boiling  water:    Ixiil   th. 

alxjut    ten    minutes;   drain    it    on  a  sieve; 

mince  it    ipiile  tine,  and    then  bruise  it  to  a 

pulp.      Tin-    deli.-ary  and   ex> -ellence   of  this 

jx-mis  n|X)i)  the 

it  into  a 

mis    with    it,  by  degrees, 
12 


about  half  a  pint  of  good  melted  butter,  only 
do  not  put  so  much  Hour  to  it,  as  die  pars- 
ley will  add  to  its  thickness:  never  |>onr 
p-trsley  and  butter  over  boiled  tilings,  but 
.send  it  up  in  u  boat. 

PARSLEY,  CRISP.  Pick  and  wash 
young  parsley,  shake  it  in  a  dry  cloth  to 
drain  the  water  from  it ;  spread  it  oir  a  sheet 
nf  clean  pa|xT  in  a  I  Hitch  oven  !>• 
fire,  and  turn  it  frequently  until  it  is  quite 
crisp.  This  is  a  much  more  easy  way  of 
prepariiiii  it  than  frying  it,  which  is  not  sel- 
dom ill  done. 

PARSNIPS,  TO   BOIL.     Scrape  and 

wash  them  nicely  ;  when  large,  divide  them  ; 
boil  them  in  milk  and  water  till  quite  tender; 
tliey  will  take  nearly  as  long  to  boil  as  car- 
rots. They  may  also  be  mashed  like  tur- 
nips. 

PARTRIDGES,  TO  CHOOSE.  When 
they  are  young  the  bill  is  of  a  dark  color, 
and  their  legs  are  of  a  yellowish  color;  and 
when  fresh,  the  vent  is  firm,  but  this  part 
will  look  greenish  when  stale.  The  plumage 
on  tlie  breast  of  the  hen  la  light,  that  on  the 
cock  is  tinged  with  red. 

PARTRIDGES  BROILED.  Take 
five  partridges,  cut  them  in  halves,  trim  and 
dip  them  in  melted  butter,  and  bread  them 
twice ;  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  dinner 
broil  them. 

PARTRIDGES   MINCED.     Take  the 

fillets  from  eight  roasted  partridges,  minre, 
and  put  them  into  a  sattcepan ;  make  a  light 
roux,  in  which  put  the  livers  and  lights  of 
the  birds,  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove,  three  shallots, 
and  a  little  sage,  give  them  a  few  turns,  anil 
tlien  add  two  large  glasses  of  stock,  reduce 
the  saire  t.i  half,  strain  and  put  it  to  the 
mince,  stirring  till  it  is  thick  and  smooth; 
make  it  hot,  but  not  boiling;  serve  it  over 
fried  bread,  and  garnish  your  dish,  with 
either  poached  or  hard  eggs. 

PARTRIDGE    IN    BREAD.     Take  a 

nice  shaped  loaf,  of  about  a  pound  weight ; 
make  a  hole  at  one  end,  through  which  lake 
out  all  ilie  crumbs,  rub  the  crust  over  with  a 
little  butter  or  lard,  and  set  it  in  th 
a  lew  minutes  to  dry:  till  this  with  minced 
partridge  (see  that  article),  and  put  the  loaf, 
bottom  upwards,  into  a  slew  pan;  add  two 
spoonfuls  of  veal  blond,  with  any  oilier  gar- 
nish you  plea.se;  let  it  remain  on  the  fire  till 
the  bread  is  soft  enough  to  allow  a  straw  to 
it,  liien  take  it  out  and  dish  it  with 
the  sauce  round. 

PARTRIDGE  PIE  IN  A  DISH.  T;ike 


PAR 


134 


PAS 


four  partridges,  pick  and  singe  them;  cut 
off  their  legs  at  the  knee;  season  with  pep- 
per, salt,  chopped  pander, tbvme,  and  muso* 
rooms.  Put  a  veal  steak  and  a  slice  of  haul 
at  the  bottom  of  the  dish;  put  in  tin-  par- 
tridges with  half  a  pint  of  good  consomme. 
Line  ilic  edges  of  the  dish  with  pull'  paste, 
and  rover  with  the  same;  do  it  over  with 
egg,  and  let  it  bake  tor  an  hour. 

PARTRIDGE  TO  ROAST.  Take 
out  the  entrails,  and  singe  the  partridge  over 
die  s-tove,  then  roll  a  hit  of  butter  in  pepper 
anil  salt,  and  put  it  into  the  inside  of  tin- 
bird;  truss  it  neatly  with  the  head  turned  on 
one  side,  keeping  the  breast  as  full  as  possi- 
ble; over  which  should  lx?  laid  slices  of  fat 
bacon  tied  on  with  pack-thread;  before  it  is 
put  on  the  spit,  break  the  back-bode,  that  it 
may  lay  the  Ix-lter  on  the  dish.  A  good 
si/.eii  partridge  will  take  half  an  hour;  when 
nearly  done,  lake  away  the  bacon,  brown 
die  partridge  well ;  sprinkle  it  with  flour  and 
salt,  and  froth  it  with  butter;  serve  it  with 
water-cresses,  a  good  gravy  under  it,  and 
bread  sauce  in  a  boat. 

PARTRIDGE:  TO  TRUSS.   Let  it  be 

well  picked  and  singed,  then  cut  a  slit  in 
the  back  of  the  nek,  and  carefully  take  the 
crop  out  without  breaking  it;  then  cut  off 
the  vent,  and  draw  out  th-.-  inside;  after  this, 
well  wi|w  the  inside,  and  then  put  in  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  mixed  with  a  bit  of  butter. 
Having  cleansed  it,  proceed  to  truss  the 
bird,  by  first  cutting  off  the  pinion  at  the  first 
joint,  so  that  the  feathers  netvl  not  be  picked 
off  that  part ;  break  the  back-bone,  and  truss 
it  in  the  same  manner  as  a  fowl,  bv  pressing 
die  legs  close  to  the  apron,  then  turn  the  bird 
on  the  breast,  and  run  a  skewer  through  the 
end  of  the  pinion,  the  leg,  the  body,  and  the 
leg  and  pinion  on  the  other  side,  with  the 
head  fixed  on  the  end  of  the  skewer,  and 
over  the  breast  lay  a  sliee  of  fat  bacon,  and 
tie  it  on  with  pack-thread.  If  for  boiling  or 
stewing,  truss  them  the  same  as  a  fowl  for 
boiling. 

PARTRIDGES  TO -STEW.  Truss 
the  partridges  as  fowls  are  done  for  boiling; 
pound  the  livers  with  double  the  quantity  of 
fat  bacon  and  bread-crumbs  boiled  in  milk; 
and  some  chopped  parsley,  thyme,  shallots, 
and  mushrooms;  season  with  |x-p|XT,  salt, 
grated  leinou-|>cel,  and  mace.  Stitlf  the  in- 
side of  the  bird*,  tie  them  at  lx>th  ends,  and 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  lined  with  slices  of 
bacon  ;  add  a  quart  of  good  stock,  half  a  pint 
of  white  wine,  two  onions,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  and  a  few  blades  of  mace;  let  them 
stew  gently  till  tender;  take  them  out,  strain 
and  thicken  the  sauce  with  tlour  and  butter, 
make  it  hot,  and  pour  it  over  the  partridges. 


PASTE.  Be  very  particular  that  your 
slab  or  paste  table,  rolling-pin  and  cutters 
are  clean,  and  free  from  all  old  paste,  and  be 
very  careful  that  both  the  flour  and  butter 
are  extremely  ;n>od.  Have  a  dry  sieve  al- 
ways in  readiness,  in  or  by  the  tlour  tub, 
so  as  to  use  none  without  sifting  it;  for, 
though  it  may  appear  pure  and  fine,  bran,  or 
small  particles  of  old  paste  may  ha\e  fallen 
into  it  ;  sifting  is,  therefore,  always  neces- 
sarv.  Weigh  one  |xmnd  of  flour,  lay  it  in  a 
circle  on  the  slab:  break  one  egg  in  the  cen- 
tre, put  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  and  a  little 
bit  of  butter;  mix  all  these  together  lightly, 
adil  a  little  water,  mix  them  again,  then  add 
more  water,  and  so  proceed  until  it  binds 
into  paste;  but  take  rare  that  yon  do  not 
make  it  too  still',  nor  si|ucc/e  it  much  to- 
gether, till  yon  find  there  is  sufficient  water; 
then  work  it  well  together,  and  roll  it  out  on 
the  slab,  but  do  not  roll  it  too  thin;  work -a 
jxxind  of  butter  on  the  slab,  spread  it  out  to 
i  the  paste,  with  a  knife  cut  it  off 
altogether,  and  lay  it  on  the  paste;  then 
double  the  ends  of  the  paste  together,  to  in- 
close the  butter;  then  give  it  one  turn,  dins: 
roll  it  out  till  von  just  perceive  the  butter 
through  the  paste;  turn  the  end  which  is 
next  to  you  half  way  over,  and  the  oilier  end 
over  that,  roll  it  once  or  twice  with  the  roll- 
ing-pin; then  let  it  rfand,  this  is  called  one 
turn;  then,  in  three  minutes  time,  turn  it 
again,  and  so  proceed  until  you  have  given 
it  six  turns;  then  roll  it  out,  and  cut  it  for 
patties  or  any  shape  you  please ;  but  observe 
not  to  put  over  them  too  much  egg,  as  that 
will  prevent  their  rising;  as  soon  as  diey 
are  baked,  take  them  oil' the  sheet,  lay  them 
on  paper,  and  when  cold,  scra|x'  the  bottoms, 
nealK  cut  out  the  insides  ready  for  what- 
ever you  mean  to  put  into  them.  For  bak- 
ing, see  directions  for  the  oven. 

PASTE,    BEEF    DRIPPING.      Rub 

into  one  pound  of  tlour  half  a  pound  of 
clarified  beef  dripping,  till  it  all  looks  like 
tlour;  work  it  to  a  stitf  paste  with  cold  wa- 
ter, and  roll  it  out  two  or  three  times.  This 
paste  answers  Aery  well  for  common  pies,  but 
must  Iw  u«'d  when  hot  and  fresh  baked. 

PASTE  FOR  BOILED  PUDDINGS. 
Pick  and  chop  very  fine  half  a  |x>und  of  beef 
suet,  add  to  it  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
flour,  and  a  little  salt:  mix  it  with  half  a 
pint  of  milk  or  water,  and  l>eat  it  well  with 
the  rolling-pin,  to  incorporate  the  suet  with 
the  tlour. 

PASTE  FOR  CHEESECAKES.  Rub 
equal  quantities  of  flour  and  butter,  together 
with  a  little  pounded  and  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
make  it  into  a  paste,  with  warm  milk,  roll 
it  out,  and  line  die  pans  widi  it. 


PAS 


135 


PAS 


PASTE,  CRISP.  Rub  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  flour,  add  two  table-spoonful-  of 
pounded  loaf-sugar, and  the  well-beaten  volks 
of  two  or  three  eggs,  work  it  well  with  a 
horn-sjxKin,  and  roll  it  out  very  thin,  touch- 
ing it  as  little  us  possible  with  the  hands; 
the  moment  Ix-fore  putting  into  a  quick  oven 
rub  k  over  with  the  well-beaten  white  of  an 
egg,  ami  sift  all  over  the  tart  fiiicly-|x>unded 
sugar.  This  crust  may  be  used  for  any  fruit 
tarts. 

PASTE     FOR    CROQUANTS     OR 

fi  r  PASTRY.  To  half  a  pound  of  fine 
flour  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  loaf- 
sugar;  mix  it  well  together  with  yolks  of 
eggs  till  of  a  good  stiffness. 

r\<TE   FOR  A  COMMON    DUM- 

l'LI\<i'.  Rub  into  a  pound  of  flour  six 
•'  butter,  then  work  it  into  a  paste 
with  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  a  little  water. 
This  pa-ie  ma v  be  baked,  a  large  table-spoon- 
ful of  pounded  loaf-sugar  being  added  to  it. 

I'\STE  FOR  FAMILY  PIES.  Rub 
into  one  |x»und  and  a  half  of  flour  half  a 
|x>und  of  butter,  wet  it  with  cold  water  suffi- 
cient to  make  it  into  a  stiff  paste;  work  it 
well,  ami  roll  it  out  two  or  three  times. 

PASTE,  POTATO.  Mash  sixteen  oun- 
ces of  boiled  potatoes,  while  they  are  warm, 
then  rub  them  lietween  the  hands,  together 
with  twelve  ounces  of  flour;  when  it  is  well 
mixed,  and  nil  Uiks  like  Hour,  add  half  a 
<i  of  .-alt.  and,  with  a  little  cold 
water,  make  il  into  a  stiff  |ti-te;  beat  and 
roll  it  out  three  or  four  times,  making  it  very 
thin  the  I.L-1  time.  Lay  il  over  bl.irk  cm - 
nml  jam.  .  .,r  any  sort  of  preserve, 

rub  the  edije-  with  water,  roll  it  up  like  a 
l>ol.-!er  pudding,  and  Ixiil  it  in  a  buttered 
and  floured  cl.-ih  lor  three  or  four  hours. 
Serve-  it  with  a  sweet  sauce. 

I : .  I '  I ;  FF.  Weigh  an  equal  quan- 
•  nr  and  butter,  rub  rather  more  tlrm 
ihe  half  of  the  flour  into  one  third  of  the 
butter,  then  add  as  much  cold  water  a-  will 
make  it  into  a  still' paste ;  work  it  until  the 
butter  IN:  completely  mixi  el  with  the-  flour, 
in. ike  il  round,  U-at  it  willi 

1C  rolling-pin,  with  : 
roll   it   uut   towarel.-   the  e.p| 
i-lab,  or  |.  making  il  e.f  an  equal 

i  with  the  p  .ml  of  a  knife-  pnl 

lillle-  bits  of  Uim-r  all  over   it,  dn-t  fl -over 

anel  unite  r  it,  fold  in  the  -ides  and  roll  it  up, 
du-t  il  ai;:im  with  flemr,  beat  il  a  lillle,  and 
reill  il  out,  always  rubbing  the  rolling-pin 
willi  flour,  and  lliiow  hi','  some  uneleriieath  the 

Jl  'he  buu.'i    is       ;  all  ca.-ily  put  in  at  the 


second  time  of  rolling  out  the  paste,  the 
remainder  may  be  put  in  at  the  third ;  it 
.-In  n  ild  be  touched  as  little  as  possible  with 
the  liands. 

PASTE,  PYRAMID.  Mak 
puff  paste,  roll  it  out  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  cut  it  into  five  or  seven  pieces 
with  scalloped  tin  paste  cutters,  which  go 
one  within  another;  leave  the  bottom  and 
top  piece  entire,  and  cut  a  bit  out  of  the 
centre  of  the  others ;  bake  them  of  a  light 
In-own  ii|»m  buttered  pajier  placed  n|*m  ting. 
When  served,  Ixiild  them  into  a  pyramid, 
laving  a  different  preserved  fruit  upon  each 
piece  of  juste,  and  oil  the  top  a  whole  apri- 
cot, with  a  sprig  of  myrtle  stuck  into  it,  or 
green-gnges,  ornamented  with  a  bunch  of 
barberries. 

PASTE  FOR  MEAT  OR  SAVORY 
PIES.  Sift  two  pounds  of  fine  flour  to  one 
and  a  half  of  good  salt  butter,  break  il  into 
small  pieces,  and  wash  it  well  in  cold  wa- 
ter ;  rub  gently  together  the  butter  and  flour, 
ami  mix  it  up  with  tlie  yolk  of  three  eggs, 
beat  together  with  a  sjxxjn;  and  nearly  a 
pint  of  spring-water;  roll  it  out,  and  double 
it  in  folds  three  times,  and  it  is  rcadv. 

PASTE  FOR  RAISED  PIES.    Take 

four  pounds  of  flour,  one  pound  of  butter, 
and  a  little  silt,  mix  tlie.se  together,  adding 
water,  a  little  at  a  time,  taking  care  not  to 
put  too  much,  as  this  paste  must  Ijo  made  as 
stiff  as  |x*sible;  when  thoroughly  mixed, 
give  it  two  or  three  turn.",  roll  it  and  cut  it 
out  to  die  slui|>e  you  want  for  your  pie. 
Sometimes  the  butter  is  melted  in  warm  wa- 
ter, and  so  mixed  with  the  flour;  tin  u 
will  not  require  so  much  wah-r,  and  the 
paste  will  stand  better;  but  as  yo  >  work 
your  )>usle,  when  yon  lind  it  get  too  cold, 
warm  it  a  little;  the  lii-st  method  of  doing 
it  is  the  best,  if  intended  to  be  eaten. 

PASTE,  RICE.    (1)    Mix  together  half 
a  |xjimd  of  filled  ground  rice  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  lic.-h  butter,   work    it  into  a 
paste  with  cold  water,  diedge  flour  over  the 
-:.'>ard    and    rolling-pin,    roll    out    the 
.   and  put  over  it,  ia  little  bits,  another 
qnai  ler  of  a  pound  of  butter;   fold  and  roll  it 
out  thin    tin.  :<-h    time  a   little 

(lour  ox-r  and  irider  it,  as  also  over  the 
lolliiig-pin.  (.'over  the  tart,  and  glaze  it  be- 
fore being  Ixikod.  This  paste  must  be  eaten 
tin-  day  it  is  linked. 

1'  \STI1.  UK  r.    (2)    Hoil,  in  a  pint  of 

half  a  pound  r.fgdiMi  rice;  drain  off  the 

.  ami  [Hiund  tlk!  rice  in  a  mortar,  with 

•   bit  of  Ixitter,  and    an   i-^«   beaten; 

I  it  out  to  cover  anv  fruit  tart. 


PEA 


136 


PEA 


PASTE,  RICH  SHORT.  Weigh 
equal  quantities  of  flour,  of  butter,  and  of 
pounded  and  sifted  loaf-sugar ;  rub  the  but- 
ter with  the  flour,  then  mix  in  the  sugar, 
and  rub  it  together  till  it  will  roll  out;  put 
it  about  half  an  inch  thick  over  the  tart, 
which  may  be  of  cherries,  raspberries,  or 
currants. 

PASTE,  SHORT,  FOR  TARTS. 
Take  one  pound  of  flour,  lay  it  on  the  slab, 
and  in  the  centre  put  half  a  pound  of  butter,, 
two  eggs,  a  very  little  salt,  and  a  little  wa- 
ter, mix  tliem  lightly  together,  and  continue 
adding  more  water,  till  you  find  it  bind ;  mix 
it  on  the  slab  a  little,  and  give  it  two  turns, 
it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

PASTE,  SUET.  Rub  well  with  half  a 
|x>und  of  fresh  beef  suet,  chopped  as  finely  as 
possible,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour, 
and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ;  make  it  into 
a  stiff"  paste  with  cold  water,  work  it  well, 
beat  it  with  the  rolling-pin,  and  roll  it  out 
two  or  three  times.  This  paste  answers  for 
any  kind  of  boiled  fruit  pudding. 

PASTE,  SWEET.  Rub  into  half  a 
pound  of  flour  three  ounces  of  butter  and  tile 
same  of  pounded  loaf-sugar,  add  one  beaten 
egg,  and  as  much  warm  water  as  will  make 
it  into  a  paste ;  roll  it  thin  for  any  kind  of 
fruit  tart,  nib  it  over  with  tl>e  beaten  white 
of  an  egg,  and  sift  sugar  over  h. 

PASTE  FOR  STRINGING  TART- 
LETS. Mix  with  your  hands  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  flour,  an  ounce  of  fresh  butler, 
and  a  little  cold  water;  nib  it  well  between 
die  board  and  your  hand  till  it  begins  to 
string;  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  roll  it  out, 
and  draw  it  into  fine  strings,  lay  them  across 
your  tartlets  in  any  device  you  please,  and 
bake  them  immediately. 

PATTIES  FOR  FRIED  BREAD.  Cut 

the  crumb  of  a  loaf  of  bread  into  square  or 
round  pieces  nearly  three  inches  high,  and 
cut  bits  the  same  width  for  tops ;  mark  tlwin 
neatly  with  a  knife ;  fry  tlie  bread  of  a  light 
brown  color  in  clarified  beef-dripping  or  fine 
lard.  Scoop  out  the  inside  crumb,  take 
care  not  to  go  too  near  to  the  bottom ;  fill 
them  wilh  mince  meat,  prepared  as  for  pat- 
ties, with  stewed  oysters,  or  with  sausage 
meat ;  put  on  the  tops,  and  serve  them  upon 
a  napkin. 

PATTIES,  LOBSTER.  See  Lobsters. 

PEACHES,  CHARLOTTE  OF.  Take 
twenty  tolerably  ripe  peaches,  cut  tluan  in 
halves,  and  scafd  them  in  a  light  simp ;  then 
drain  and  cut  each  half  into  three  pieces 


(lengthwise)  of  equal  thickness ;  pot  these 
into  a  pan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pow- 
der-sugar, and  half  the  quantity  of  warm 
butter;  fry  them  lightly,  and  having  prepar- 
ed your  Charlotte  in  the  usual  way,  pour  in 
the  peaches  and  finish  it  (see  Charlotte). 
When  in  the  dish  for  table,  cover  it  com- 
pletely with  the  sirup,  and  serve  immedi- 
ately. 

PEARS  BAKED.  (1)  Take  twelve  large 

baking  pears ;  pare  and  cut  them  into  halves, 
leaving  the  stem  about  half  an  inch  long; 
take  out  the  core  with  the  point  of  a  knife, 
and  place  them  close  together  in  a  block-tin 
saucepan,  the  inside  of  which  is  quite  bright, 
with  the  cover  to  lit  quite  close;  put  to  them 
the  rind  of  a  lemon  cut  thin,  with  half  its 
juice,  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  twenty 
grains  of  allspice;  cover  them  with  spring- 
water,  and  allow  one  pound  of  loaf-suyar  to 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  water:  cover  them  up 
close,  and  bake  them  for  six  hours  in  a  very 
slow  oven :  they  will  be  quite  tender,  and  of  a 
bright  color.  Obs. — Prepared  cochineal  is 
generally  used  for  coloring  the  pears;  but 
if  the  above  is  strictly  attended  to,  it  will  be 
found  to  answer  best. 

PEARS  BAKED.  (2)  Take  half  a 
dozen  fine  pears,  peel,  cut  them  in  halves, 
and  take  out  the  cores;  put  them  into  a  pan 
with  a  little  red  wine,  a  few  cloves,  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  and  some  water.  Set  them 
in  a  moderate  oven  till  tender,  then  put  them 
on  a  slow  fire  to  stew  gentlv ;  add  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  more  sugar  if  in 
They  will  be  sufficiently  red. 

PEARS  COMPOTE.  Choose  your 
fruit  carefully,  take  oft"  the  tops,  .and  trim 
the  tails,  wash  and  drain  them  well ;  then 
put  them  into  a  skillet  with  sugar,  cinna- 
mon, two  or  three  cloves,  a  little  red  wine, 
and  some  water.  Set  them  on  a  slow  fire, 
taking  care  to  skin  them.  When  sufficiently 
done,  they  will  look  wrinkled.  Peel  your 
fruit,  and  put  it  into  a  well  glazed  pipkin, 
with  a  glass  of  wine,  a  little  cinnamon, 
sugar  to  the  taste,  and  a  little  water ;  put  in 
also  a  pewter  spoon;  cover  the  pipkin  close, 
and  set  it  on  hot  ashes.  When  done,  the 
pears  will  be  of  a  fine  red  color. 

PEARS  TO  COMPOUND.  Take  a 
dozen  large  pears,  coddle  them ;  when  ten- 
der, take  them  out  and  l.w  them  in  cold  wa- 
ter, pare  and  cut  them  in  halves;  take  out 
the  cores,  put  them  in  sirup  made  thus: — 
Two  pounds  and  a  half  of  sugar  to  fhree 
pints  of  water,  a  little  lemon-peel  pared  very 
thin,  boiled  in  them,  and  a  little  cochineal 
bruised  and  put  into  a  muslin  log:  cover 
them,  boil  them  quick  till  they  are  tender 


PEA 


137 


PEP 


and  of  a  good  color ;  when  cold,  squeeze  in 
the  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons. 

PEARS  PRESERVED.  Take  care 
in  making  this  preserve  that  the  fruit  be  not 
too  ripe ;  tiny  are  in  a  fit  state  as  soon  as 
the  pips  are  Llack.  Set  (lie  pears  on  the 
fire  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  cover 
them;  take  them  off  when  quite  soft,  and 
throw  them  into  cold  w:iti:r;  pare  them 
lightly,  rut  oil  the  stalks,  prick  each  with  a 
pin  sufficiently  long  to  reach  the  cere,  and 
put  tliein  again  into  cold  water,  with  a 
handful  of  alum;  sei  them  on  the  fire  to  boil 
until  tlie  pears  are  tender,  then  take  them  out, 
and  |xit  thyin  into  cold  water  for  the  third 
time.  Clarifv  and  Ixiil  some  su^ar.  [iiit  .-.>me 
water  to  it,  and  when  it  boils,  add  (lie  |x-ais, 
cover  the  |ian,  and  give  the  whole  a  boil;  j 
fkim  and  |xmr  it  into  an  earthen  pan  and 
leave  it.  The  next  day,  drain  the  sirup 
from  tin-  pears,  add  a  little  more  clarified  | 
sugar  to  it,  and  Ixiil  it  again;  |x>ur  it  over 
the  fruit,  and  leave  it  .is  before;  the  next 
and  two  succf.-.-ive  day.-,  proceed  in  the  same 
way,  each  time  incieaMng  the  degree  of  ' 
boiling,  then  add  tin-  p<-ai.-,  give  the  pre- 
serve a  boil  (covered),  .-kirn  and  pour  it  into 
a  pan,  and  place  it  in  a  stove  for  two  days, 
then  drain  die  fruit,  and  put  it  by  for  use. 

PEARS  STEWED.  (1)  Wash  and  prick 

some  large  stewing  |x-ars.  and  set  them  on 
the  fire  in  a  large  stewing-pan  of  water  to 
scald ;  when  scalded,  take  them  out,  and 
put  them  on  the  lire  in  a  pan  w  illi  a  .-miicicnt 
quantity  of  thin  clarified  .-ngar  to  cover  them, 
a  -ink  of  cinnamon,  a  little  mace,  and  two 
or  three  cloves;  let  them  stew  gently  till 
they  begin  to  soften  and  look  rather  red, 
then  pin  in  a  little  of  1'ort  wine,  and  let 
them  continue  .-ten  ing  until  |«-it.-|ly  done, 
and  lo<>k  very  rich  and  red;  then  put  them 
in  a  basin  or  jar,  with  the  liuuor  over  them; 
they  will  be  all  the  better  for  keeping  four  or 
five  days. 

PEARS  STEWED.    (2)  Pare,  cut  into 

quarters,  and  take  out  the  core  of  six  good 
baking  [tears;  throw  them  aa  they  are  done 
into  water.  To  a  pound  of  fruit  allow  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  brown  sugar,  and  three 
I  ml  them  into  a  saucepan,  cover 
them  with  cold  water,  keep  the  pan  closely 
covered,  and  stew  them  gentry,  till  red  and 
tender ;  add,  just  before  serving,  a  glass  of 
Port  wine.  They  may  be  eaten  hot  or  cold, 
with  cream,  after  dinner  or  at  supper. 

IT.  \<.  i.KKFA.     Young   green   peas, 

well  dressed,  are  among  the  most  delicious 

delicacie-  i.f  th.  vegetable  kingdom.     They 

must  be  young;   it  is  equallv  indispensable 

12* 


that  they  be  fresh  gathered,  and  cooked  as 
soon  as  they  are  stalled  (or  tl»ey  soon  lose 
both  their  color  and  sweetness.  After  U-ing 
shelled,  wash  them,  drain  them  in  a  cullen- 
der, put  them  on  in  plenty  of  boiling  water, 
w  itli  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  one  of  |xnmd- 
ed  loaf  sugar;  boil  them  till  they  become 
tender,  which,  if  young,  will  be  in  less  AM 
halt' an  hour;  if  old,  they  will  require  more 
than  an  hour;  drain  diem  in  a  cullender, 
and  put  them  immediately  into  a  dish  with 
a  slice  of  fresh  butter  in  it;  some  people 
think  it  an  improvement  to  boil  a  small  liuiich 
of  mint  with  die.  peas;  it  is  then  minced 
finely,  and  laid  in  small  heaps  at  the  end  or 
>idcs  of  [he  dish.  If  peas  are  allowed  to 
stand  in  the  water  after  being  boiled  they 
lose  their  color. 

PEAS  FOR  A  SECOND  COl'USE. 
Put  a  quart  of  tine  green  peas,  'ogether  with 
a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  into  as 
much  warm  water  as  will  cover  them,  in 
which  let  tliem  stand  for  eight  or  ten  min- 
utes. •  Strain  off  the  water,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan,  cover  it,  stir  them  frequently,  and 
wlicn  a  little  tender,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
and  a  young  onion,  nearly  a  dessert-spoonful 
of  loaf-sugar,  and  an  ounce  of  butter  mixed 
with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour;  keep  stirring 
tlii-iii  now  and  then  till  the  peas  be  tender, 
and  add,  if  tliey  become  too  thick,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  hot  water.  Before  serving,  take 
out  the  onion  and  parsley. 

PEAS   PUDDING.    Take  a  pint  of 

good  split  peas,  and  having  waslied,  soak 
tliem  well  in  warm  water;  then  lie  them  in 
a  cloth,  put  the  (Kidding  into  a  >auccpan  of 
hot  water,  and  l>oil  it  until  quite  soft.  When 
done,  beat  it  up  with  a  little  butter  and  salt; 
serve  it  with  boiled  pork  or  beef. 

PEAS  POWDER.  Pound  together 
in  a  marble  mortar  half  an  ounce  each  of 
dried  mint  and  sage,  a  drachm  of  celery- 
seed,  and  a  quarter  of  a  drachm  of  cayenne 
pepper ;  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Thia 
gives  a  very  savory  relish  to  peas  soup,  and 
to  water  gruel,  which,  by  its  help,  if  the 
eater  of  it  has  not  die  most  lively  imagina- 
tion, lie  may  fancy  he  is  sipping  good  peas 
soup.  Obs. — A  drachm  of  allspice,  or  black 
pfp|M-i ,  may  be  (xmnded  with  die  alxivc  as 
an  addition,  or  instead  of  the  cayenne. 

PEPPER  POT.  Take  as  much  spinach 
as  will  fill  a  good  sized  dish,  put  it  in  a 
saucepan  without  any  water,  set  it  on  the 
fire,  and  let  it  boil ;  then  drain  off  all  the  li- 
quor, chop  the  spinach  very  fine,  and  return 
it  to  the  saucepan,  with  die  water  ju>t  drain- 
ed from  it,  more  water,  onions,  three  or  four 


PER 


138 


PIC 


potatoes,  a  lettuce  or  head  of  endive  cut 
small,  the  bones  of  any  cold  roast  meat,  if 
you  have  them,  and  half  a  pound  of  bacon  ; 
put  the  whole  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  has 
boiled  for  about  an  hour,  put  in  a  few  suet 
dumplings;  leave  it  twenty  or  thirty  min- 
utes longer ;  season  it  well  with  cayenne,  and 
serve. 

PEPPER  POT  IN  A  TUREEN.  Stew 
gently  in  four  quarts  of  water,  till  reduced  to 
three,  three  pounds  of  beef,  half  a  pound  of 
lean  ham,  a  bunch  of  dried  thyme,  two  on- 
ions, two  large  potatoes  pared  and  sliced; 
then  strain  it  through  a  cullender,  and  add 
a  large  fowl,  cut  into  joints  and  skinned, 
half  a  pound  of  pickled  pork  sliced,  the 
meat  of  one  lobster  minced,  and  some  small 
suet  dumplings,  the  size  of  a  walnut.  When 
the  fowl  is  well  boiled,  add  half  a  peck  of 

r'nach,   that  has  been  boiled   and  rubbed 
ough  a   cullender;  season  with  salt  and 
cayenne.     It  is  very  good  without  the  lean 
ham  and  fowl. 

PERCH  BOILED.  Put  them  into  cold 
water,  and  let  them  boil  carefully ;  serve  with 
melted  butter  and  soy. 

PERCH  BROILED.  Scrape,  gut,  and 
wash  them ;  dry  them  in  a  cloth,  dust  them 
with  flour,  and  broil  them.  Sauce ; — melted 
butter.  Or  they  may  be  broiled  without 
gutting  them.  They  may  also  be  stewed  as 
carp  are  done. 

PERCH  WITH  WINE.  Having  scal- 
ed and  taken  out  the  gills,  put  the  perch  into 
a  stewpan,  with  equal  quantities  of  stock 
and  white  wine,  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove  of  gar- 
lic, a  bunch  of  parsley  and  scallions,  two 
cloves,  and  some  salt.  When  done,  take 
out  the  fish,  strain  off  the  liquor,  the  dregs 
of  which  mix  with  some  butter  and  a  little 
flour;  teat  these  up,  set  them  on  the  fire, 
stirring  till  quite  done,  adding  pepper,  grated 
nutmeg,  and  a  ball  of  anchovy  butter.  Drain 
the  perch  well,  and  dish  them  with  the  above 
sauce. 

PERLINGO.  Take  a  pound  and  a  half 
of  sifted  flour,  and  having  placed  it  on  your 
slab,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  it,  into 
which  put  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  brown 
sugar,  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  the  rind 
of  two  lemons  grated,  and  ten  eggs ;  knead 
all  these  ingredients  together  well,  until  you 
have  a  pretty  firm  paste ;  if  it  should  l«  too 
thin,  add  a  handful  more  flour.  Then  rut 
the  paste  into  small  pieces,  each  of  which 
roll  in  the  palms  of  your  hands,  till  they  are 
the  length  and  thickness  of  your  finger ;  take 
a  round  stick  (about  half  the  diameter  of  your 


paste),  press  this  down  on  each  of  the 
pieces,  so  that  they  may  be  their  original 
thickness  on  one  side,  and  thin  on  the  other ; 
when  all  are  thus  pressed,  form  them  into 
little  crowns  (the  flat  side  inwards,  and  the 
thin  end  uppermost),  lay  them  on  white  pa- 
per, and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven ;  in 
the  meanwhile,  make  some  white  sugar  var- 
nish or  icing,  and  when  the  perlingos  are 
sufficiently  done,  dip  them  carefully  in  the 
varnish,  one  by  one;  then  replace  them  hi 
the  oven,  a  minute  or  two,  to  dry. 

PERRY.  Perry  is  a  pleasant  and  whole- 
some liquor,  made  from  the  juice  of  peal's, 
by  means  of  fermentation,  somewhat  in  the 
same  manner  as  cider  is  made  from  apples. 

PETTITOES.  Boil  the  feet,  the  liver, 
and  the  heart,  of  a  sucking  pig,  in  a  little 
water,  very  gently,  then  split  the  feet,  and 
cut  the  meat  very  small,  and  simmer  it  with 
a  little  of  the  water  till  the  feet  are  perfectly 
tender;  thicken  with  a  bit  of  butter,  a  little 
flour,  a  spoonful  of  cream,  and  a  little  pepper 
and  salt ;  give  it  a  boil  up,  pour  it  over  a  few 
sippets  of  bread,  put  the  feet  on  die  mince. 

PICKLE  FOR  3IEAT.  Six  pounds 
of  salt,  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  four  ounces 
of  saltpetre,  boiled  with  four  gallons  of  water, 
skimmed,  and  allowed  to  cool,  forms  a  very 
strong  pickle,  which  will  preserve  any  meat 
completely  immersed  in  it.  To  effect  this, 
which  is  essential,  either  a  heavy  board  or  a 
flat  stone  must  be  laid  upon  the  meat.  The 
same  pickle  may  be  used  repeatedly,  provided 
it  be  boiled  up  occasionally  with  additional 
salt  to  restore  its  strength,  diminished  by  the 
combination  of  part  of  the  salt  with  the 
meat,  and  by  the  dilution  of  the  pickle  by 
the  juices  of  the  meat  extracted.  By  bulling, 
the  albumen,  which  would  cause  the  pickle 
to  spoil,  is  coagulated,  and  rises  in  the  form 
of  scum,  which  must  be  carefully  removed. 

An  H-bone,  of  ten  or  twelve  pounds, 
weight  will  require  about  tlirce-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  salt,  and  an  ounce  of  moist  sugar, 
to  be  well  rubbed  into  it.  It  will  be  ready 
in  four  or  five  days,  if  turned  and  rubbed 
every  dav. 

The  lime  meat  require?  .-:illiiiLr  depends 
upon  the  weight  of  it,  and  how  much  salt  is 
used:  and  if  it  be  rubbed  in  with  a  heavy 
hand,  it  will  be  ready  much  sooner  than  if 
only  lightly  rubbed. 

N.  B.  Dry  the  salt,  and  rub  it  with  the 
sugar  in  a  mortar. 

PORK  requires  a  longer  time  to  cure  (in 

proportion  to  its  weight)  than  beef.     A  leg 

of  pork  should  be  in  salt  eight  or  ten  days; 

turn  it  and  rub  it  every  day. 

!      Salt  meat  should  be  well  washed  before  it 


PIE 


139 


PIE 


ra  )x)iled,  especially  if  it  has  been  in  salt  ; 
long,  that  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  is 
boiled,  may  not  be  too  salt  to  make  soup  of. 
If  it  h;is  IH-CII  in  salt  a  long  time,  and  yon 
fear  that  it  will  lie  too  salt,  wash  it  well  in 
cold  water,  and  *>ak  it  in  luke-warm  water 
for  a  couple  of  hours.  If  it  is  very  tall, 
by  it  in  water  the  night  before  you  intend  to 
dress  it. 

PICKLE  FOR  TONGUES.  To  four 
gallon*  of  water,  add  two  [xnmds  and  a 
naif  of  treacle,  eight  pounds  of  silt,  two 
ounces  of  *all|x'tre;  boil  it,  and  skim  it  un- 
til cli-.ir,  sprinkle  salt  over  the  tongue,  and 
let  it  stand  two  davs,  wipe  it  clean  before 
Jim  put  it  into  tlie  pickle,  which  must  l>e  quite 
cold;  boil  the  pickle,  every  two  or  mm 
months,  adding  two  or  three  handfuLs  of  salt, 
skimming  it  well.  Half  the  (Hiantity  is  suf- 
ficient for  two  tongues. 

PICKLE  FOR  BEEF.  Allow  to  four 
gallons  of  wati-r  two  pounds  of  brown  sn^ar 
and  six  (xmnds  of  salt,  boil  it  alxjnt  twenty 
minutes,  taking  off  the  scum  as  it  rises;  the 
following  dav  |xuir  it  over  the  meat  which 
has  l;eeii  |  icked  into  tin1  pick  I  ing-tub.  Boil 
it  every  two  months,  adding  three  ounces  of 
brown  suirar  and  half  a  pound  of  common 
salt.  P>\  this  means  it  will  keep  good  a 
y«-;ir.  The  meat  must  be  sprinkled  with 
salt,  and  the  next  day  wiped  dry,  before 
pouring  the  pickle  over  it,  with  which  it 
should  always  U-  coaipletely  covered.  With 
the  addition  of  two  ounces  of  saltpetre  and 
one  pound  of  salt,  this  pickle  answer*  t-'i 
pickled  pork,  ham*,  and  tongues.  The 
tongue*  *h'in!d  !»•  nibbed  with  common  -  ih. 
to  cleaa-e  ihein.  and  afterwards  willi  a  little 
saltpetre,  and  allowed  in  li"  tour  or  li<- 
before  tln-y  are  put  into  the  pickle.  The 
nie:ii  will  lie  ready  fir  u.-e  in  ei^ht  or  ten 
days,  and  will  keep  fur  three  mouths. 

PICKI.KS.     Pickles  ought  to  lie  stored 

in  a  dry  place  an.l  the  vessels  nuwt  appiov- 
ed  of  for  keeping  them  in,  are  wiile-mouth- 
•'iles,  or  i.  Iron:;  .-toiie-\\:ne  jars, 
having;  cmU*  or  l"i:i,'*,  which  mn.-t  lie  titled 
iu  with  linen,  and  coM-ied  with  bladder  or 
leather;  and  l'<  L  l;iki,i'_;  the  pickles  out  and 
returning  thi-m  to  the  jar,  a  small  WMidi-u 
s|xM>n  in  kept.  Tlie  strongest  vinegar  is 
Used  for  pickling  ;  that  of  rider  more  part ic- 
ularly  recommended,  Imt  MI,'  ir  vine^rir  will 
generally  l»e  fixim!  sufficiently  stniu^.  li  is 
enentiai  to  the  excellence  and  beauty  of 
pickle-,  that  they  be  alw.t\-  completely  cov- 
ered with  \in«'«ar. 

See  Hot  l*icklt»,  India  I'ickles,  Onions, 
Cucumbers,  fyc.  4*c. 

PIE,  A.NGLO-FRANCAIS.      Take   a 


deep  dish,  line  the  edge  with  puff  paste  like 
a  common  pie ;  stew  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  rice  with  some  sugar  until  quite  soft  and 
sweet ;  take  a  pound  of  ripe  juicy  cherries, 
which  pick  and  roll  in  a  quarter  of  .a  pound 
of  powder-sugar,  and  lay  about  a  quarter  of 
them  at  the  Ixrttom  of  the  dish ;  cover  these 
with  a  fourth  part  of  the  rice,  tiien  the  cher- 
ries again,  and  so  on  till  your  materials  are 
need,  taking  care  to  keep  the  pie  high  in  the 
middle;  cover  it  with  a  layer  of  puff  paste, 
which  wash  over  lightly  with  some  white  of 
egg,  and  strew  a  little  powder-sugar  over; 
put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour  and  a 
quarter;  then  take  it  out,  mask  the  crust 
with  apricot  marmalade,  and  a  few  maca- 
roons crushed.  Serve  it  either  hot  or  cold. 

PIE,  APPLE.  (1)  Take  eight  russe- 
tines,  or  lemon  pippin  apples;  pare,  core, 
ana  cut  not  smaller  than  quarters;  place 
them  as  close  as  possible  together  into  a  pie- 
di.-h,  with  four  clove*;  rub  together  in  a 
mortar  some  lenion-|x-cl,  wilh  lour  ounces 
of  good  moist  sugar,  and,  if  agreeable,  add 
some  quince  jam ;  cover  it  with  puff  paste; 
bake  it  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  (Generally 
eaten  warm). 

PIE,  APPLE.     (2)    Pare,  quarter,  and 

core  the  apples;  cut  ihein  into  thin  bits. 
1'ut  into  the  Ixjttom  of  a  pie-dish  a  table- 
s|xM,nl'ul  of  brown  sugar,  with  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  grated  ginger  and  lemon-]  >ecl,  then 
a  layer  of  apples,  and  so  on  alternately, 
till  the  dish  is  piled  as  full  as  it  will  hold. 
The  next  day  wet  the  rim  of  tlie  dish,  line 
it  with  puff  or  tart  paste,  brush  it  with  wa- 
ter, and  rover  it  with  paste;  press  the  edge 
all  round,  notch  it  with  a  |>astc-cuticr,  and 
make  a  small  hole  with  the  point  of  a  knife 
in  the  middle.  It  may  be  se;isoned  with 
two  tablc-s|>oonfuls  of  lemon  or  orange  mar- 
malade, pounded  cinnamon,  mace,  and 
cloven,  in  addition  to  tlie  ginger  and  lemon- 
peel. 

I'll'..  \PPLE  WITH  Mrsr\l>KL 
KAISIN'S.  1'eel  twenty  reniieting  apples, 
cut  them  in  quarters,  and  then  cut  each  quar- 
ter into  five  or  six  pieces;  toss  them  in  a 
pan  with  four  ounce*  of  sn^ir  in  |x>wder, 
(oxer  which  should  Ix;  grated  the  \»->-\  of  a 
lemon),  four  ounce*  of  Imltcr  lukewarm, 
and  four  ounces  of  fine  miiM-adel  plum*. 
Line  the  edge  of  a  deep  dish  with  a  good 
puff  jxi-ie,  ilu'ii  put  in  your  fruit,  and 
your  di>h  with  a  gixxl  puff  paste  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  iu  thickness,  y\n-u-  wilh  the  white 
of  an  egg,  and  strew  >n^ar  "\ei  it.  Let  it 
kike  an  h..iir  in  a  m  -derate  ou-n,  ami  serve 
it  hot. 

PIE,  APKIfoT.     Line  a  dish  with  puff 


PIE 


140 


PIE 


|x\ste,  and  then  put  in  eighteen  fine  apricots, 
(cut  in  halves  •and  the  stones  taken  out,) 
with  liiur  ounces  of  sugar  in  powder,  and 
four  ounces  of  butter  lukewarm.  Then  lay 
on  the  upper  crust,  glaze  with  the  white  of 
egg,  and  strew  sifted  sugar  all  over.  Let  it 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  to  a  nice  light  col- 
or. Serve  it  hot.  When  you  wish  to  serve 
it  cold,  you  must  leave  out  die  butter. 

PIE,  BEEF  KIDNEY.  Cut  some  kid- 
neys into  thin  slices,  and  place  them  in 
the  bottom  of  your  pie-dish,  then  sweet 
herbs  chopped,  such  as  parsley,  thyme,  shal- 
lots, mushrooms,  pepper,  and  salt;  con- 
tinue this  till  the  dish  is  full,  then  cover  the 
whole  with  slices  of  bacon,  then  finish  your 
pie;  bake  it  in  the  oven;  when  done,  take 
out  the  bacon,  and  skim  off  the  fat ;  make  a 
sauce  with  a  glass  of  while  wine,  a  tolerable 
quantity  of  cullis,  and  reduce  it  to  the  con- 
sistence of  a  good  sauce,  then  squeeze  an 
orange  in  it.  Serve  your  pie  hot. 

PIE,  BEEF-STEAK.  Cut  the  steaks  off 
a  rump,  or  any  nice  piece  of  beef,  fat  and 
lean  together,  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  beat 
them  a  little  with  a  rolling-pin,  put  over 
them  some  pepper,  salt,  and  parboiled  onion 
minced;  roll  them  up,  and  pack  them  neatly 
into  the  dish,  or  lay  the  beef  in  slices;  add 
some  spoonfuls  of  gravy,  and  a  tea-spoonful 
of  vinegar.  Cover  tlie  pie  with  a  puff  paste, 
and  bake  it  for  an  hour.  It  is  a  common 
but  mistaken  opinion,  that  it  is  necessary 
to  put  stock  or  water  into  meat  pies.  Beef, 
mutton,  veal,  and  pork,  if  not  previously 
dressed,  will  be  found  to  yield  a  sufficiency 
of  gravy,  and  the  pie  will  be  better  without 
any  additional  liquid.  N.  B. — Large  oys- 
ters, parboiled,  bearded,  and  laid  alternately 
with  the  steaks,  their  liquor  reduced  and 
substituted  instead  of  the  ketchup  and  wine, 
will  be  a  variety. 

PIE,  CHICKEN.  Parboil,  and  then 
cut  up  neatly  two  young  chickens ;  dry  them ; 
set  them  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  few  minutes; 
have  ready  some  veal  stuffing  or  forcemeat, 
lay  it  at  the 'bottom  of  the  dish,  and  place  in 
die  chickens  upon  it,  and  with  it  some  pie- 
ces of  dressed  ham ;  cover  it  with  |>aste. 
Bake  it  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two 
hours ;  when  sent  to  table,  add  some  good 
gravy,  well  seasoned,  and  not  too  thick. 
Duck  pie  is  made  in  like  manner,  only  sub- 
stituting die  duck  stuffing  instead  of  the  veal. 
N.  B. — The  above  may  be  put  into  a  raised 
French  crust  and  baked ;  when  done,  take 
off  the  top,  and  put  a  ragout  of  sweetbread 
to  tlie  chicken. 

PIE,  COD.  Lay  a  fine  piece  of  fresh 
cod  in  salt  for  several  hours,  dicn  wash  it 


well,  season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  nut  meg  and 
mace;  place  it  in  a  dish,  with  a  little  but- 
ter and  some  good  stock.  Lay  a  crust  over, 
and  Ijake  it;  when  done,  pour  in  a  <;mce, 
made  as  follows: — a  spoonful  of  stock,  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream,  flour  fcnd  butter, 
grate  in  a  little  nutmeg  and  lemon-peel,  and 
a  few  oysters,  boil  die  whole  once. 

PIE,  COLD  BEEF,  VEAL,  OR  MUT- 
TON. Pound  in  a  mortar  some  boiled  po- 
tatoes; boil  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  while  hot, 
mix  it  with  die  potatoes,  and  beat  them  till 
they  become  like  a  light  paste ;  roll  it  out, 
cut  it  with  a  flat  dish,  the  size  of  a  pie  dish, 
so  as  it  may  be  laid  from  off  it  upon  the 
pie;  cut  die  meat  into  slices,  season  it  widi 
pepper  and  salt,  put  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  wet 
die  edges  of  die  dish,  and  put  over  it  die 
paste,  and  bake  it  till  the  paste  be  sufficiendy 
done. 

PIE,  DEVIZES.  Cut  into  very  thin 
slices,  after  being  dressed,  cold  calPs  head, 
with  some  of  the  brains,  pickled  tongue, 
sweetbreads,  lamb,  veal,  a  few  slices  of  ba- 
con, and  hard-boiled  eggs;  put  them  in  lay- 
ers into  a  pie-dish,  with  plenty  of  seasoning 
U'lween  each,  of  cayenne,  white  pepper, 
allspice,  and  salt;  till  up  the  dish  with  rich 
gravy  ;  cover  it  \\  illi  a  llour  and  water  paste ; 
bake  it  in  a  glow  oven,  and  when  perfectly 
cold,  take  off  die  crust,  and  turn  die  pie  out 
upon  a  dish;  garnish  it  with  parsley  and 
pickled  eggs  cut  into  slices. 

PIE,  DUCK.  Scald  a  couple  of  ducks, 
and  make  them  very  clean ;  cut  off  the  feet, 
pinions,  necks,  and  heads.  Take  out  die 
gizzards,  livers,  and  hearts;  pick  all  clean, 
and  scald  them.  Pick  out  the  fat  of  the  in- 
side, lay  a  good  puff-paste  crust  all  o\  er  the 
dish,  season  die  ducks  both  inside  and  out, 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  lay  them  in  die 
dish,  with  die  giblets  at  each  end,  projierlv 
seasoned.  Put  in  as  much  water  as  will 
nearly  fill  tlie  pie,  lay  on  die  crust,  and  let  it 
be  well  baked. 

PIES,  EGG  MINCE.  Boil  six  ej-s 
until  they  are  hard,  shred  diem  small ;  slued 
double  the  quantity  of  suet;  then  add  one 
pound  of  currants  picked  and  washed,  (if 
the  eggs  were  large  you  must  use  more  cur- 
rants) the  peel  of  one  lemon  shred  very  fine, 
and  die  juice,  six  spoonfuls  of  sweet  wine, 
mace,  nutmeg,  sugar,  a  very  small  quantity 
of  salt,  orange,  lemon,  and  citron  candied. 
Make  a  light  paste  for  diem. 

PIE,  FRENCH.  Mince  some  cold  roast 
veal  together  with  a  little  ham,  season  it 
highly  with  pepper,  salt,  mace,  and  lemon- 
jx;t.'l ;  add  a  large  table-spoonful  of  mush- 


PIE 


141 


PIE 


room  ketchup,  and  a  quarter  of  a  hundred 
of  oysters,  with  their  liquor,  and  three  or 
four  table-s|x>.iiifiils  of  rich  gravy.  Line  a 
dish  with  puff  paste,  put  in  the  ingredients, 
cover  tlie  pic,  :ind  let  it  remain  in  the  oven 
long  enough  to  bake  die  paste. 

PIE,  GIBLET.  Stew  the  gihlets  in  a 
little  water,  with  an  onion  stuck  with  two  or 
three  cloves,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  some 
salt,  and  whole,  pepper;  cut  a  fowl  into 

joint.-,  .-kn,  .iini  u  i-li  it,  season  it  with  pep- 
per, salt,  and  half  an  onion  finely  minced. 
Take  out  tin-  union,  herbs,  and  whole  pep- 
per; put  the  fowl,  giblets,  and  gravy  into  a 
dish,  add  a  i;h-s  of  \\hitc  wine,  and  two  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  mushroom  ketchup;  cover 
the  dish  with  pull'  paste,  and  bake  it  for  an 
hour. 

PIE,  GOOSE.  Prepare  a  very  strong 
raised  cin.-t,  and  make  the  sides  thick  and 
stiff.  Take  the  bones  out  of  a  goose,  tur- 
key, and  foul,  cutting  each  down  the  back; 
season  them  highly  with  pepper,  salt,  mace, 
cloves,  and  nutmeg,  all  finely  pounded  and 
well  mixed.  Lay  the  goose  upon  a  dish, 
with  the  breast  skin  next  the  dish;  lay  in 
the  turkey,  put  some  slices  of  boiled  ham 
and  ton.Mie,  and  then  the  fowl;  cover  it  with 
little  bits  of  ham  or  haeon.  Put  it  all  into 
tlie  pic,  made  of  an  oval  form,  and  the  sides 
to  .-i  ui'l  an  indi  and  a  lialf  above  the  meat; 
put  on  the  top,  and  make  a  hole  in  the  cen- 
tre of  it.  l>m-h  thu  outside  of  the  pie  all 
over  with  the  Ix-aten  whites  of  eggs,  and 
bind  it  round  with  three  folds  of  buttered 
paper;  paste  tin-  top  over  in  the  same  way, 
ami  when  ii  comes  out  of  the  oven,  take  off 
the  pa|)cr,  and  pour  in  at  tlie  top,  through  a 
funnel,  u  |x>nnd  and  a  half  of  melted  butter. 

1'IK.S,  LOBSTER.     See  Lobster. 

PIE,   ITALIAN.     Mix   together  some 

i-hoppcd  iliMne.  ; :. u -icy,  and  one  or  two  sage 
leaves,  some  silt,  white  and  cayenne  pep- 
per; lay  into  the  bottom  of  a  dish  some  thin 
slices  of  It MII  \.-al,  -pi  inkle  them  with  the 
seasoning,  ami  add  .-I ices  of  ham,  and  a  few 
ll  ball.-;  put  a  layer  of  seasoned 
veal,  .uid  of  ham  and  forcemeat  balls,  till  the 
di-h  is  full,  and  then  add  the  yolks  of  five 
liard-boilcd  e^ys,  and  some  good  while  stock  ; 
cover  tlio  di>h  with  a  puff  paste,  and  bake 
ii  tin-  an  hour.  Uclore  serving,  pour  in, 
through  a  funnel  at  the  centre  of  tlie  critt, 
a  tea-cupful  of  rich  cream. 

1'll.S.  MVKJUKFISH.  Salt-fish  pie. 
The  thick,  -t  part  must  be  cliosen,  ami  put 
in  cold  water  to  soak  tile  night  U-lore  want- 
ed; then  lx.il  it  well,  take  it  up,  lake  away 
the  bones  and  skin,  ami  if  it  is  good  fish  it 


will  be  in  fine  Livers ;  set  it  on  a  fish-drain- 
er to  get  cold:  In  tlie  meantime,  boil  four 
eggs  hard,  pwl  and  slice  them  very  thin, 
the  same  quantity  of  onion  sliced  thin ;  line 
the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with  fish  forcemeat,, 
or  a  layer  of  potatoes  sliced  thin,  then  a 
layer  of  onions,  then  of  fish,  and  of  eggs,  and 
so  on  till  the  dish  is  full ;  season  each  layer 
with  a  little  pepper,  then  mix  a  tea-spoonful 
of  made  mustard,  the  same  of  essence  of  an- 
chovy, a  little  mushroom  ketchup,  in  a  gill 
of  water,  put  it  in  the  dish,  then  put  on  the 
top  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter  broke  in  bits ; 
cover  it  widi  puff  paste,  and  bake  it  one 
hour.  Fresh  cod  may  be  done  in  die  same 
way,  b\  adding  a  little  salt.  All  li.-h  lor 
making  pies,  whether  soles,  floun.i 
rings,  salmon,  lobster,  eels,  trout,  tench,  &c. 
should  be  dressed  first;  this  is  the  most 
economical  way  for  Catholic  families. 

/  PIES,  MINCE.  (1)  Carefully  stone  and 
cut,  but  not  too  small,  one  pound  and  a  half 
of  bloom  raisins;  cut  .-mall  half  a  pound  of 
orange-peel,  mince  finely  half  a  dozen  of 
middling-sized  good  apples,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  ot'sueei  almonds,  pounded  to  a  paste 
with  a  little  white  wine,  half  a  nutmeg  grat- 
ed, a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pepper,  one 
head  of  clove,  and  a  little  cinnamon  pound- 
ed ;  one  pound  and  a  half  of  fresh  beef  suet, 
finely  minced,  one  pound  of  good  brown  su- 
gar; mix  all  these  ingredients  extremely 
well,  and  add  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and 
one  glass  of  brandy.  Pack  it  closely  into 
small  stone  jars,  and  tie  them  over  with  pa- 
per. When  it  is  to  be  used,  add  a  little  more 
wine. 

PIES,  MINCE.  (2)  Cut  the  root  off  a 

neat's  tongue,  rub  the  tongue  well  with  salt, 
let  it  lie  four  days,  wash  it  perfectly  clean, 
and  boil  it  till  it  becomes  tender ;  skin,  and 
when  cold,  chop  it  very  finely.  Mince  as 
small  as  possible  two  pounds  of  fresh  beef 
suet  from  the  sirloin,  stone  and  cut  small  two 
pounds  of  bloom  raisins,  clean  nicely  two 
pounds  of  currants,  pound  and  sift  half  an 
ounce  of  mace  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
cloves,  grate  a  large,  nutmeg ;  mix  all  these 
ingredients  thoroughly,  together  with  one 
pound  and  a  half  of  good  brown  sugar. 
Pack  it  in  jars.  When  it  is  to  be  used,  al- 
low ,  for  die  quantity  sufficient  to  make 
twelve  small  mince  pies,  five  finely -mi  need 
apples,  tlie  grated  rind  and  juice  of  a  large 
lemon,  and  a  wine-glass  and  a  half  of  brandy ; 
put  into  each  a  lew  bits  of  citron  and  pre- 
served orange-peel.  Three  or  four  whole 
green  lemons,  preserved  in  good  brown  su- 
gar, and  cut  into  thin  slices,  may  bo  added 
to  the  mince  meat. 

PIES,  BRANDY,  MINCE.    Clean  a 


P  IE 


142 


PIE 


pound  of  currants,  mince  a  pound  of  non- 
pareil apples,  and  one  of  fresh  lieef  curt ; 
pound  a  pound  of  loaf  sujrar ;  \\cisrli  each 
article  after  being  prewired;  the  po-1  of  two 
lemons  grated,  and  llie  juice  of  one ;  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  citron,  t  he  same  of  orange- 
peel  rninced.  Mix  all  these  ingredients 
well  with  a  quart  of  brandy. 

PIES,  LEMON  MINCE.  Weigh  one 
pound  of  fine  large  lemon*,  cut  them  in  half, 
squeeze  out  the  juice,  and  pick  the  pulp  from 
the  skins ;  boil  them  in  water  till  tender, 
and  pound  them  in  a  mortar;  add  half  a 
pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  the  same  of 
nicely  cleaned  currants,  and  of  fresh  beef 
suet  minced,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and 
citron  cut  small.  Mix  all  tliese  ingredients 
well,  and  fill  the  patts-pans  with  rather  more 
of  the  mince  than  is  usually  put. 

PIE,  MUTTON  OR  VEAL.    Cut  into 

chops,  and  trim  neatly,  and  cut  away  the 
greatest  part  of  the  fat  of  a  loin,  or  best  end 
of  a  neck  of  mutton  (the  former  the  Ix-st), 
season  them,  and  lay  them  an  a  pie-dish, 
with  a  little  water  and  half  a  gill  of  mush- 
room ketchup  (chopped  onion  and  poi 
if  approved) ;  cover  it  with  paste,  take  it 
two  hours;  when  done,  lift  up  the  crust  from 
die  disli  with  a  knife,  pour  out  all  the  gravy, 
let  it  stand,  and  skim  it  clean;  add,  if 
wanted,  some  more  seasoning ;  make  it  boil, 
and  pour  it  into  the  pie.  Veal  pie  may  be 
made  of  the  brisket  part  of  the  breast ;  but 
must  be  parboiled  first. 

PIE,  PIGEON  OR  LARK.  Truss 
half  a  dozen  fine  large  pigeons  as  for  stew- 
ing, season  them  with  pepper  and  salt ;  lay 
at  the  bottom  of  the  dish  a  rump-steak  Oi 
about  a  pound  weight,  cut  into  pieces  and 
trimmed  neatly,  seasoned,  and  beat  out  with 
a  chopper:  on  it  lay  the  pigeons,  the  \olks 
of  three  eggs  boiled  hard,  and  a  gill  of  broth 
or  water,  and  over  these  a  layer  of  steaks; 
wet  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and  cover  it  over 
with  puflT  paste,  or  the  paste  as  directed  for 
seasoned  pies;  wash  it  over  with  yolk  of 
egg,  and  ornament  it  with  leaves  of  paste  and 
tlie  feet  of  the  pigeons;  bake  it  an  hour  and 
a  half  in  a  moderate-heated  oven:  before  it 
is  sent  to  table  make  an  aperture  in  the  lop, 
and  pour  in  some  good  gravy  quite  hot. 

PIE,  RAISED  PORK.  Make  a  rais- 
ed crust,  of  a  good  size,  about  four  inches 
high ;  take  die  rind  and  chine  bone  from  -i 
loin  of  pork,  cut  it  into  chops,  beat  them 
widi  a  chopper,  season  diem  with  |x-p|>er 
and  salt,  ami  till  your  pie;  put  on  the  top 
and  close 'it,  and  pinch  it  round  theedije; 
rub  it  over  widi  yolk  of  egg,  and  bake  it  t  \vo 
hours  \vidi  a  paper  over  it,  to  prevent  the 


ciust  from  burning.  When  done,  pour  in 
some  good  gravy,  with  a  little  ready-mixed 
mustard  (if  approved).  N.  B. — As  the 
alioxc  is  generally  eaten  cold,  it  is  an  excd- 
lent  repast  for  a  journey,  and  will  keep  for 
several  days. 

PIE,  POTATO.  Peel  and  slice  your 
potatoes  very  thin  into  a  pie-dish;  between 
each  layer  of  potatoes  put  a  little  chopped 
onion  (three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  onion  is 

sufficient  f> >r  a  pound  of  potatws) ;  Ijetween 
each  layer  sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt; 
put  in  a  little  water,  and  cut  about  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  litlle  bits,  and  lay 
them  on  the  top:  cover  it  close  with  puff 
paste.  It  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a  half 
to  bake  it.  N.  15.  The  yolks  of  tour  eggs 
(boiled  hard)  may  lie  added;  and  when 
baked,  a  table-spoonful  of  good  mushroom 
ketchup  |)Oiired  in  throuuh  a  funnel.  Obs. — 
Cauliflowers  divided  into  inouthfuls,  and 
button  onions,  seasoned  with  curry-powder, 
&c.  make  a  favorite  vegetable  pie. 

PIES,  RAISED,  MUTTON  OR 
PORK.  Put  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  (lour 
on  tlie  paste-board;  and  put  on  the  lire,  in  a 
.-aacepan,  diree-quarten  of  a  pint  of  water, 
and  half  a  pound  of  good  lard;  when  the 
water  boils,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of 
the  flour,  pour  in  the  water  and  lard  by  de- 
grees, gently  mixing  the  (lour  with  it  with 
a  spoon;  and  when  it  is  well  mixed,  then 
knead  it  with  your  hands  till  it  become-;  stiff: 
dredi-'e  a  little  tlour  to  prevent  its  slicking  to 
die  Uiiiid,  or  you  cannot  make  it  look  smooth: 
do  not  roll  it  with  the  rolliug-pin,  but  roll  it 
with  your  hands,  about  the  thickness  of  a 
quart  |>ot;  cut  it  into  six  piece.-,  leaung  a 
little  for  the  co\ers;  put  one  hand  in  die 
middle,  and  keep  the  other  close  on  the  out- 
side lill  \oii  ha\e  worked  it  either  in  an  oval 
or  a  round  shape:  have  your  meat  ready  cut, 

Bed  with  pepper  and  oah :  if  pork, 
cut   in  .small  slices;    the  ^riskin   i:- 
for  pasties:   if  \ou  use  mutton,  cut  it  in  very 
neat  cutlets,  and  put  them  in  the  pi 
make,  them;    roll   out    the    covers    with   the 
rolling-pin  just   the  si/e   of  the   pie.  wet    it 
round  the  ed^o,  put  it  on  the  pie,  and  press 

r  w  ilh  your  thumb  and  linger,  and 
then  cut  it  all  round  with  a  pair  ol 
quite  even,  and  pinch  them   inside  and  out, 
and  bake  them  an  hour  and  a  half. 

PIE,  RAISED  FRENCH.  Make 
alxjui  two  pounds  of  flour  in  to  a  paste;  knead 
it  well,  and  into  die  shajx;  of  a  ball ;  press 
your  thumb  into  die  centre,  ami  work  it  by 
degrees  into  any  sha|>e  (oval  or  round  is  the 
most  general),  till  about  five  inches  high; 
put  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  till  it  w  ith 
coarse  flour  or  bran;  roll  out  a  covering  for 


PIE 


143 


PIG 


it  alxiut  the  same  thickness  as  the  sides;  ce- 
ment its  sides  with  the  yolk  of  egg;  cut  the 
edges  quite  even,  and  pinch  it  round  with  the 
finger  and  thumb,  nib  yolk  of  egSniver  it  with 
a  paste-brush,  and  ornament  it  in  any  way 

fancy    may    diivi-t,   with  the  sa kind    of 

paste.  Bake  it  of  ;i  fine  brown  color,  in  a 
slow  oven;  and  vvh<  n  dune,  cut  out  the  top, 
'remove  the  tlonr  or  bran,  brush  it  quite 
clean,  and  till  it  up  with  a  fricassee  of  chick- 
in,  rabbit,  or  any  other  entree,  most  conve- 
nient. Send  it  to  table  with  a  napkin  under. 

IMF..  11  \M  KMSKI).  Soak  a  small 
ham  tour  or  live  hour.-;  \\a.-h:tnd  MTa|ie  it 
well ;  rut  off  the  kniK-kle.  and  boil  it  for 
hall" an  hour;  then  take  it  up  and  (rim  it  very 
neatly;  tr.ke  off  the  rind  and  put  it  into  an 
oval  .-ie«  pan,  uiih  a  pint  of  .Madeira  or 
Sheri-y,  and  enough  veal  stock  to  cover  it. 
I>et  it  stew  for  two  hours,  or  till  three  pails 
done;  take  it  out  anil  set  it  in  a  cold 
place;  then  rai<e  a  ern-t  :is  in  the  foregoing 
•_:li  to  receive  it;  put  in 
the  ham,  and  round  it  th"  veal  tcirceiueat ; 
rover  and  ornament ;  it  will  take  about  an 
hour  and  a  half  to  buke  in  a  slow  oven: 
when  done,  take  off  the  cover,  glaze  the  top, 
and  )><iur  round  the  following  sauce,  viz.  take 
the  liquor  the  ham  wa-  stewed  in;  skim  it 
"in  tin  ;  thicken  with  a  little  flour  and 
butter  mixed  t'^r,  (her;  a  few  drops  of  brown- 
ing, and  some  cayenne  pep|>er. 

I'll'..  ST.  \.  Skin  and  cut  into  joints  a 
large  fowl;  wash  and  lay  it  into  cold  water 
for  an  hour;  cut  some  -all  bi-ef  into  thin 
.  and  if  it  is  very  .-alt,  soak  it  a  short 
time  m  water;  make  a  pa-<te  of  (lour  and 
butter  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  pound  of 

butler  t e  of  tloitr,  cut  it  into  round  pieced 

iinu'  to  the  f\tf  of  the  Ixtltom  of  the 

pot  in  which  the  pie  is  to  be  stewed;   rub 

with  butter  tlie  Ixittom  of  a  round   iron  pot, 

and  lay  in  a  layer  of  the  beef,  seasoned  with 

pepper,  and  finely-minced  onion;   then  put  a 

layer  of  tin-  paste,  and  then  the  (owl,  highly 

rh  pe|>|(er,   onion,  and    a    little 

salt;  add  another   liver  of  paste,  and  |»ur 

in  three  piuis   (,f  e,,|d   water;   cover  the  |>ol 

.  ','cnily  lor  nearly  four 

•  king  care  it   does  not  burn,  which, 

to  do.     It  is  served  in 

a  pudding  dish,  and  answers  well  tor  a  family 
dinner. 

I'M".  «>K   DEVONSIIIUK. 

Take  a  i  inn-apples,  pare,  core, 

••  them;  chop  -nine  onion-;  very 
small;  li.ic  a  deep  dish  with  paste,  put  in  a 
•••  \\  a  little  ni'^ar,  and 
some  ,,t  the  i  M  ip|ied  onions  over  them;  sea- 
son them,  and  lay  lean  mutton  chops,  also 
seasoned,  more  onions,  then  the  apples,  &c. 


as   before,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is  quite 
full ;  cover,  and  bake  the  pie. 

PIE,  SUUASH.  One  pint  of  squash, 
stewed  and  strained  ;  one  pint  of  milk,  and 
\  one  of  cream ;  ten  eggs ;  half  teacup  of  rose- 
water;  quarter  pound  of  sugar,  and  one 
grated  nutmeg.  Bake  in  plates  lined  with 
putt"  paste. 

PIE,  SWEETBREAD.  Parboil  fire 
or  -i\  .-weetbreads ;  cut  them  into  two  or 
three  pieces,  stew  them  ten  or  fifteen  minutes 
in  a  little  white  stock,  with  some  chopped 
shallot,  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  some 
salt,  and  white  pepper,  and  a  good  many 
mushrooms.  Put  them  into  a  pie-dish,  with 
some  asparagus  to|>s,  forcemeat  balls,  and 
hard-lxiiled  yolks  of  eggs,  and  slices  of  fat 
bacon  on  tlie  top;  cover  it,  and  bake  it  till 
the  |>aste  be  done  enough ;  or  it  may  be  put 
into  a  vol-aii-vent,  and  served  upon  a  nap- 
kin ;  or  baked  in  a  plate. 

PIE,  VEGETABLE.     Of  a  variety  of 

vegetables,  such  as  carrots,  turnips,  pota- 
j  toes,  artichoke  bottoms,  cauliflower,  French 
IM-HIIS,  peas,  and  small  button  onions,  equal 
quantities  of  each;  half  boil  them  in  good 
broth  for  a  short  time,  put  them  into  a  pie 
dish,  cover  it  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  it  in 
a  slow  oven  ;  make  a  gravy  of  a  bit  of  veal, 
a  slice  of  ham ,  pepper,  salt,  a  bay  leaf,  mush- 
looms,  shallots,  |i;ir.-lev,and  an  onion;  when 
it  has  boiled  thick,  strain  the  liquor,  and  mix 
in  three  or  four  table-spoonfuls  of  cream,  and 
pour  it  into  the  pie  Ixjfore  being  served.  The 
cream  may  be  omitted. 

PIG,  Is  in  prime  order  for  the  spit  when 
alxnit  three  weeks  old. 

It  loses  |>art  of  it*  goodness  every  hour  af- 
ter it  is  killed  ;  if  not  quite  fresh,  no  art  can 
make  the  crackling  crisp. 

To  be  in  perfection,  it  should  be  killed  in 
the  morning  to  be  eaten  at  dinner:  it  requires 
very  careful  toasting.  A  sucking-pig,  like 
a  young  child,  must  not  be  left  for  an  in- 
stant. 

The  ends  must  have  much  more  fire  than 
the  middle:  for  this  pur|>osc  is  contrived  an 
iron  to  hang  before  the  middle  pait,  called  a 
pig-iron.  If  you  have  not  this,  use  a  com- 
mon flat  iron,  or  keep  the  fire  fiercest  at  the 
two  ends. 

For  tlie  stuffing,  take  of  the  crumb  of  a 
stale  loaf  about  five  ounces;  rub  it  through  a 
colander;  mince  fine  a  handful  of  sage  (t.  e. 
about  two  ounces),  and  a  large  onion  (about 
an  ounce  and  a  half).  Mix  these  together 
with  an  egg,  some  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  bit 
of  butter  as  big  as  an  egg.  Fill  the  belly  of 
tlie  pig  with  this,  and  sew  it  up:  lay  it  to 
the  tire,  and  Uiste  it  with  salad  oil  till  it  is 


PIG 


144 


PIG 


quite  done.  Do  not  leave  it  a  moment:  it 
requires  the  mos*  vigilant  attendance. 

Roast  it  at  a  clear,  brisk  fire  at  some  dis- 
tance. To  gain  the  praise  of  epicurean  pig- 
eaters,  the  crackling  must  be  nicely  crisped 
and  delicately  lightly  browned,  without  be- 
ing either  blistered  or  burnt. 

A  small,  three  weeks  old  pig  will  be  done 
enough  in  about  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Before  you  take  it  from  the  fire,  cut  off  the 
head,  and  part  that  and  the  body  down  the 
middle:  chop  the  brains  \fcry  fine,  with  some 
boiled  sage  leaves,  and  mix  them  with  good 
veal  gravy,  or  beef  gravy,  or  what  runs  from 
the  pig  when  ^-ou  cut  its  head  off.  Send  up 
a  tureenful  of  gravy  besides.  Currant  sauce 
is  still  a  favorite  with  some  of  the  old  school. 

Lay  your  pig  Ijack  to  l>ack  in  the  dish, 
with  one  half  of  the  head  on  each  side,  and 
die  ears  one  at  each  end,  which  you  must 
take  care  to  make  nice  and  crisp;  or  you 
will  get  scolded,  and  deservedly,  as  the  silly 
fellow  was  who  Ixnight  his  wife  a  pig  with 
only  one  ear. 

When  you  cut  off  the  pettitoes,  leave  the 
skin  long  round  the  ends  of  the  legs.  When 
you  first  lay  the  pig  before  the  fire,  rub  it  all 
over  with  fresh  butter  or  salad  oil:  ten 
minutes  after,  and  the  skin  looks  dry; 
dredge  it  well  with  flour  all  over,  let  it  re- 
main on  an  hour,  then  rub  it  off  with  a  soft 
cloth. 

N.  B.  A  pig  is  a  very  troublesome  subject 
to  roast;  most  persons  have  them  baked. 
Send  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  beg 
the  baker  to  baste  it  well. 

PIG,  BAKED.  Lay  your  pig  in  a  dish, 
flour  it  well  all  over,  then  rub  it  over  with 
butter;  butter  the  dish  you  lay  it  in, and  put 
it  into  die  oven.  When  done  enough,  take 
it  out,  and  rub  it  over  with  a  butter  cloth ; 
dien  put  it  again  into  the  oven  till  it  is  dry, 
then  take  it  out  and  lay  it  in  a  dish;  cut  it 
up,  take  a  little  veal  gravv,  and  take  off  die 
fat  in  the  dish  it  was  baked  in,  and  there 
will  lie  some  good  gravy  at  the  bottom;  put 
that  to  the  veal  gravy,  with  a  little  bit  of  but- 
ter, rolled  in  flour;  lx>il  it  up, and  put  it  in 
a  dish  in  which  the  pig  has  been  laid,  and 
put  the  brains  with  some  sage  into  the  belly. 
Some  persons  like  a  pig  to  be  brought  to 
table  whole,  in  which  case  you  are  only  to 
put  what  sauce  you  like  into  the  dish. 

PIG,  BARBICUED.  Scald,  &c.,  a  pig, 
of  about  nine  or  ten  weeks  old,  the  same  as 
for  roasting;  make  a  stuffing  widi  a  few 
eage-leaves,  the  liver  of  the  pig,  and  two  an- 
chovies boned,  washed,  and  cut  extremely 
small ;  put  them  into  a  mortar,  with  some 
bread-Crumby  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
a  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  half  a  pint 
of  Madeira  wine;  beat  diem  to  a  paste,  and 


sew  it  up  in  the  pig ;  lay  it  at  a  good  distance 
before  a  large  brisk  fin;;  sin^c  it  well;  put 
two  bottles  of  Madeira  wine  into  die  drip- 
ping-pan, and  keep  testing  it  all  the  time  it 
is  roasting;  when  half  done,  put  two  French 
rolls  into  die  drippingpan  ;  and  if  there  is  not 
wine  enough  in  the  drippugpon,  add  more: 
when  the  pig  is  nearly  done,  take  the  rolls 
and  sauce,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan, 
with  an  anchovy  cut  small,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  and  die  juice  of  a  lemon  ;  take  up  die 
pig,  send  it  to  table  with  an  apple  in  its 
mouth,  and  a  roll  on  each  side ;  then  strain 
the  sauce  over  it. 

Some  barbicue  a  pig  of  six  or  seven  weeks 
old,  and  stick  it  all  over  with  blanched  al- 
monds, and  baste  it  in  the  same  manner  widi 
Madeira  wine. 

PIG,  TO  COLLAR.  Cut  off  the  feet, 
head,  and  tail;  bone  and  wash  it  well,  and 
dry  it  in  a  cloth.  Season  it  highly  with  a 
quantity  of  pepper  and  sail ;  roll  it  up  firmly, 
and  bind  it  with  a  piece  of  linen;  sew  it 
tightly.  Put  it  on  in  boiling  water,  with  the 
bones,  let  it  boil  for  an  hour,  dien  put  it  un- 
der a  weight  to  press  till  it  be  cold,  and  take 
off  the  cloth. 

PIG'S  CHEEK,  TO  COLLAR.   Strew 

over  a  pig's  face, and  a  neat's  or  pii's  tongue, 
a  little  salt  and  saltpetre;  let  it  stand  eight 
or  nine  days,  then  Iwil  them  with  two  cow- 
heels,  till  all  be  sufficiently  tender  to  admit 
of  the  bones  being  taken  out ;  lay  upon  a 
dish  a  piece  of  strong  cloth,  put  the  cheek 
upon  it  with  die  rind  downwards ;  season  it 
highly  with  pepper,  cloves,  and  a  little  salt; 
add  the  tongue  and  cow-heels,  with  more 
seasoning;  roll  and  sew  it  up  firmly,  (Hit  it 
into  a  jar  and  boil  it  for  two  hours,  then 
press  it  widi  a  homy  weight,  and  when  cold 
take  off  the  cloth.  The  cow-had  may  be 
omitted,  and  bodi  cheeks  used. 

PIG'S   CHEEK,  TO   CURE.     Strew 

salt  over  it,  and  let  it  lie  two  or  three  days, 
then  pour  over  it  die  following  mixture  when 
it  is  cold;  half  a  pound  of  ba\  salt,  half  an 
ounce  of  saltpetre,  a  quarter  of  a  \tound  of 
coarse  brown  sugar,  one  handful  of  common 
salt,  and  a  penny-worth  of  cochineal,  boiled 
in  a  pint  of  strong  beer  or  porter;  let  it  lie 
in  die  pickle  a  fortnight,  turning  it  daily, 
dien  hang  it  to  smoke  for  a  week.  Wlien 
to  be  dressed,  put  it  into  lukewarm  water  to 
soak  for  a  night,  and  in  dressing  it,  follow 
the  directions  given  for  boiling  hams. 

PIG'S  FEET  AND  EARS  PICKLED. 
Wash  the  feet  and  ears  \ery  clean,  and  be- 
tween every  foot  put  a  bay-leaf;  when  diey 
arc  well  soaked,  add  some  cloves, mace,  co- 
riander-seed, and  ginger;  put  a  botde  of 


PIG 


145 


PIG 


white  wine  to  three  pair  of  feet  and  ears, 
some  hay-leaves,  a  biinch  of  sweet  herbs; 
let  them  boil  gentry  lilt  tin 'van;  tender,  llicn 
take  them  out  of  the  liquor,  lay  them  in  an 
earthen  pan ;  when  cold,  lake  oil'  the  fat, 
and  strain  the  liquor  over  them.  Ti 
well  cold,  or  wanned  in  the  jelly,  thickened 
with  butter  rolled  in  llonr;  or  take  the  feet  and 

•  ;it  of  the  jellv,dip  them  in  \"lk 
and  then  in  er  mule  of  tread,  and  broil  tliein, 
or  fry  tlii-ni   in    butter;     lay    the  ears  in    the 
middle,  and  the  feet  round:    or  ragout  them. 

I'Hi'S  IT.KT  AND  KAKS  SOUSED. 

Clean  tli,  in,  and  l*iil  them  till  they  are  ten- 
der; then  split  the  feet,  and  put  them  and 
the  ears  in  salt  and  water.  When  you  use 
them,  dry  them  well  in  a  cloth,  dip  them  in 
batter,  fry  them,  and  ^end  them  to  table  with 
melted  butler  in  a  Imat.  They  may  Ix-  eaten 
cold,  and  will  keep  a  considerable  lime. 

PI<  J 'S  FEET,  TO  STEW,  ("lean  them 
well,  and  Ixiil  them  (ill  they  are  tender. 
Brown  some  butter  with  tlonr,  and  add  it  to 
a  quaitMH  of  _;ra\y  or  water  Millicir.it  to 
die  feet  in.  Season  with  a  minced 
onion,  thret  -.dt,  anil  black  |x-p- 

per.  Cut  the  li-et  iii  twi,  add  them,  and 
cover  the  pan  close  I  \  ;  let  them  stew  half  an 
lionr.  A  little  liflon-  ser\  in^,  mix  in  half 
a  tabie-*pOOnfill  of  lemon  pickle  or  vinegar, 
and  pick  out  the  sage  leaves. 

Plf/SII  \KSI.KT.  (1)  I'arlx.il  the  liver 
and  lights,  slice  and  fry  them  along  with  thin 
bits  of  ba'-,,n.  (iarnish  with  fried  par-ley. 

riC'S  II  \KSI.ET.    (2)    Wash  and  dry 

pome  h  ids,  and   some  tat   and 

•ik,  Ix-atin^  lie-   latter  with 

a  rolling-pin   to   make  them  lend,  i 

with  |x-pper.  <.i\t,  and  sa,'e,  and  a  little  onion 

fine;    wln-n   mixed,  put  all   into  a 

e-awl,  and  laslen  it   tight   with  a   needle  and 

id  rua-t  il  by  a  jack,  or  by  a  !-lrin^. 

lice*,   x\  idi  par-ley,  fora  fry. 

::h  a  sauce  of  1'ort  wine  and  water, 

and  ni'i.-tard,  jnst  boiled  up,  and  jwit  it  into 

a  dish. 

I'l'.S    11K\I)    COLLARED.       Very 

ur  the  head  and  ears;    take  off  tin- 

hair  and  snmit.  and   take  out  the  eyes  and 

brain;    let  it  la\  for  OIK-  niifht  in  water ;    then 

drain    it;    -alt    it    i  xlremcly  well,  with  com- 

dlpetre,  ami  let  it  I  • 

day-.      ('.nil   it  suhVienlly   in    take  out    the 
Ixjiifv. ;    then  lay  it  on  a  dresser,  turning  the 
thick  end  ..I'OIIP  side  of  the  head  toward-  ilu- 
thick  end  "filii-  other,  to  make  the  roll  of  an 
eqinl   gizi  :     M  inkle  it    well   with 
I  it  with  ihe  • 
if  you  think  proper,  put  the  iii^'s  feel    round 


tlie  outside,  when  boned,  or  the  thin  parts 
of  a  couple  of  cow-heels.  Put  it  into  a  cloth, 
bind  with  a  broad  ta|>e,  a1  I  Ixiil  it  till  quite 
tender;  then  put  it  under  a  weight,  and  do 
not  take  off  the  covering  uufd  it  is  quite  cold. 
If  you  wi-h  it  to  be  more  like  brawn,  salt  it 
.  and  let  the  proportion  of  saltpetre  be 
r,  and  put  in  also  some  pieces  of  lean 
|xirk,  and  then  cover  it  with  cow-heel,  to 
Icxik  likethi-hc.nl.  This  may  lx-  kept  either 
in  or  out  of  pickle  of  salt  and  water,  boiled 
with  vinegar.  If  likely  to  s|xiil,  slice  and  fry 
it,  either  with  or  without  tetter. 

I'Ki'S    HEAD,   TO  POT.      Split  tlie 

head  of  a  small  pig,  take  out  the  brains,  cut 
off  the  ear?,  ami  let  it  lie  in  cold  water  for 
one  day,  then  boil  it  till  all  tlie  bones  come 
out;  take  off  the  skin,  keeping  it  as  whole 
as  pns-ible.  Chop  the  tongue  and  all  the 
meat  while  it  is  hot ;  season  it  highly  with 
pep|x-r.  salt,  and  nutmeg;  place  |>art  of  the 
skin  at  the  bottom  of  a  potting-pan  or  bowl, 
lay  in  the  chopped  meat,  and  put  the  rest  i.f 
the  skill  over  the  top;  press  it  down  hard, 
place  a  small  plate  upon  it,  put  on  that  a 
hea\y  weight,  which  must  not  be  taken  off 
(ill  it  Ix-  (x-rfectly  cold.  Boil  up  part  of  tlie 
liquor  with  some  vinegar  and  salt,  and  keep 
the  head  in  this  pickle.  It  may  be  served 
tor  breakfast  or  luncheon,  and  is  eaten  with 
\  ine^ar  and  mustard. 

PUTS  I1K\I)  \\DFEET, SOUSED. 
Clean  them  extremelv  well  and  boil  them; 
take  tin-  sauce  part  of  the  liquor,  and  add 
\  inegar,  lime  or  lemon  juice,  salt,  cayenne, 
and  |M-p|M-r;  put  in,  either  cut  down  or 
whole,  the  head  and  |i-et  ;  Ixjil  all  together 
f  >r  an  hour,  and  pour  it  into  a  deep  dish. 
It  ia  eaten  cold  with  mn.-tard  and  vinegar. 

I'KJ'S    KIDNEYS,   AND    SKIRTS. 

Clean  and  wash  them  very  nicely,  cut  the 
kidneys  across,  and  the  skirts  into  small 
square  bits;  fry  them  a  light  brown  in  beef 
dripping,  brown  a  bit  of  bulter  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  with  a  little  tlour,  and  add  as  much 
Ixiiling  water  as  may  Ix-  required  of  gravy, 
and  .in  onion  minced  small.  Add  the  meat, 
a  little  |x-p|x-r,  sail,  and  mushroom  ketchup, 
and  let  it  stew  till  tender. 

l'ir;EO.\S.  Pigeons  should  !>e  extreme- 
ly fresh;  when  so,  and  in  good  order,  they 
are  plump  anil  fat  at  the  vent,  and  their  feet 
pliable;  but  when  they  are  stale,  the  vent  in 
"!»-n.  ^rei-n,  and  withered.  Tame  pigeons 
are  considered  preferable  to  tlie  wild. 

PIGEONS    WHOLE,   TO     BROIL. 

•hem  wi-ll.  cutoff  the  wingsand  neck, 
leaving  skin  enough  at  the  neck  to  tie;  make 
a  forcemeat  with  bread  crumbs,  three  or  iota 


PIG 


146 


PIK 


of  the  livers,  one  anchovy,  some  parsley 
minced,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butler; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg, 
bind  it  with  the  yolk  of  an  eg:>  beaten  up,  and 
put  into  each  pigeon  a  piece  tlie  size  of  a  large 
walnut;  tie  the  neck  and  rump,  rub  them 
with  butler,  and  dust  them  with  pep|>er,  salt, 
and  nutmeg  mixed  ;  broil  them  over  a  slow 
fire ;  to  baste  them,  put  them  upon  a  plate, 
and  with  a  feather  brash  them  over  with  but- 
ter; broil  them  of  a  nice  brown  color;  serve 
them  with  melted  butter  and  parsley,  or  a 
thickened  brown  gravy. 

PIGEON  PIE.  Chop  some  parsley  and 
lemon  thyme,  with  a  few  mushrooms;  stew 
these  in  a  little  butler,  into  which  put  half  a 
dozen  young  pigeons,  with  pepper  and  salt 
in  their  insides,  and  their  legs  turned  in; 
stew  them  for  a  few  minutes  and  turn  them; 
when  they  begin  to  fry,  put  in  sufficient  con- 
somme to  cover  them,  in  which  let  them  stew 
till  they  are  well  done;  take  them  from  the 
fire  to  cool  ;  in  the  meantime  make  a  good 
puff  paste,  part  of  which  roll  out,  and  place 
round  the  edge  of  a  dish;  lay  the  pigeons  in 
with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  boiled  hard,  and 
pour  over  them  half  of  llie  liquor  lliev  were 
stewed  in;  add  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  then 
lay  on  the  top  paste,  trimming  it  neatly 
round,  the  same  as  you  would  any  other  pie  ; 
on  the  top  form  a  star  of  leaves,  with  a  hole 
in  the  centre ;  eg,r  it  lightly  over,  and  put  it 
to  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  taking  care  that 
it  has  not  too  much  color ;  when  done,  add 
to  the  liquor  that  remained  from  the  pigeons, 
a  little  butter  sauce,  make  it  very  hot,  and 
[xwr  it  on  the  pie.  Serve  it  hot,  either  for 
a  remove  or  side  dish. 

PIGEONS  WITH  RICE  AND  PAR- 

M F.SAN  CHEESE.  Pick  and  wash  clean 
half  a  dozen  nice  pigeons,  cut  them  into  quar- 
ters; brown  some  butter  with  flour,  add  to 
it  a  pint  of  good  stock,  with  three  grated 
onions,  some  pepper  and  salt,  stew  the  pig- 
eons in  this  till  tender,  take  them  out  and 
mix  in  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  Ixiii  and  strain 
the  sauce  over  the  pigeons.  Boil  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  whole  rice  in  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  stock,  with  half  a  pound  of  fresh 
butler,  some  graled  nutmeg  anil  salt;  when 
it  is  lender,  add  two  liandfuls  of  grated  1'ar- 
incsan  cheese.  Put  more  than  Irilf  of  the 
vice  equally  round  the  dish  in  \\  hich  the  pig- 
eons are  placed,  and  cover  them  with  what 
remains,  brush  it  over  with  a  well-beaten 
egg,  and  then  strew  it  thickly  with  more 
I'anuesan  ;  <o\er  a  flat  baking-tin  with  salt, 
place  the  dish  upon  this,  and  bake  it  for  nearly 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven  ;  ii 
should  be  of  a  fine  gold  color. 

PIGEONS,  TO  ROAST.    Pick,  clean, 


singe,  and  wash  them  well ;  truss  them  with 
three  feet  on,  and  put  into  them  some  pepper 
and  salt.  While  roasting,  baste  them  with 
butter.  A  litlle  before  serving,  dust  them 
with  flour,  and  froth  them  with  butter. 
Roast  them  for  half  an  hour.  Serve  them 
with  parsley  and  butter  in  the  dish,  or  make 
a  gravy  of  die  giblets,  some  minced  parsley, 
seasoned  with  |>ep|>cr  and  salt.  Thicken 
with  a  little  flou;-  and  butter;  pour  it  with 
the  giblets  into  the  dish,  and  then  put  in  the 
pigeons. 

PIGEONS,  STEW.  (1)  Clean  them  nice- 
ly, truss  them  as  for  lulling,  put  into  their  in- 
side some  pepper  and  salt ;  brown  in  a  sauce- 
pan three  ounces  of  butter  with  u  table-spoon- 
ful of  (lour,  add  as  much  gravy  or  water  as  will 
nearly  cover  the  pigeons,  put  them  in  with 
the  livers,  gizzards,  and  pinions,  salt,  and 
some  minced  par.-lev,  spinach  may  also  be 
added;  let  them  stew  for  three-quarter*  of 
an  hour;  add,  a  few  minutes  before  serving, 
the  yolks  of  Jour  or  six  hard-boiled  eggs. 

PIGEONS,  STEW.  (2)  Wash  and  clean 
six  pigeons,  cut  them  into  quarters,  and  put 
all  their  giblets  with  tliem  into  a  stewpan,  a 
piece  of  butter,  a  litlle  water,  a  bit  of  lemon- 
|Kjel,  two  blades  of  mace,  some  chopped  pars- 
ley, salt,  and  pepper;  cover  tlie  pan  closely, 
and  stew  them  till  they  lie  tender;  thicken 
the  sauce  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  up 
with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  cream  and  a  bit 
of  butter  dusted  with  (lour;  let  them  slew 
ten  minutes  lunger  before  serving. 

PIKE,  BAKED.  Scrape  the  scales  off 
a  large  pike,  take  out  the  gills,  and  clean  it, 
without  breaking  die  skin;  stuff  llie  tish 
with  a  forcemeat  made  of  two  liandfuls  of 
grated  bread,  one  of  finely-minced  suet,  some 
chop|>ed  parslev,  and  a  little  fresh  Initter, 
sc-asoued  uitli  j.epper,  sail,  mace,  grated 
lemon-peel  and  a  nutmeg,  pounded  all  togeth- 
er m  a  mortar,  with  two  whole  r  jgg.  Fasten 
llie  tail  of  tlie  |>ikc  into  its  month  with  a 
skewer,  then  dip  it,  first  into  a  well-beaten 
egg,  and  then  into  grated  Ixvad,  which  repeat 
twice;  baste  it  over  with  butter,  and  bake 
it  in  an  o\eu. 

If  two  <>f  them  are  to  l>e  served,  make  one 
of  them  of  a  green  color,  by  mixing  a  quan- 
tity of  finely-minced  parsley  with  the  grated 
bread.  When  the  fish  is  of  a  fine  brown 
color,  cover  it  with  paper  until  it  is  done. 
Serve  with  a  Dutch  sauce  in  a  sauce-tureeu. 

PIKE,  BOILED.  Wash  clean,  and 
takeout  the  gills;  stuff  them  with  the  follow- 
ing forcemeat  :  equal  parts  of  chopped  oys- 
ters, grated  bread  crumbs,  Ijeefsuet,  or  butter, 
two  anchovies,  a  little  onion,  pepper,  salt, 
nutmeg,  minced  parsley,  sweet  marjoram, 


POI 


147 


FOR 


thyme,  and  savory ;  an  egg  to  bind  it.  Stuff 
the  ins  ides,  and  sew  them  up;  put  them  on 
in  boiling  salt-and-water,  with  a  gl  < 
egar,  and  let  them  !x>il  half  an  hour.  Sauces  ; 
— oyster,  and  meluM  butter.  Tliey  may 
also  be  broiled. 

P1LI.AU,  TO  MAKE.  \Vash  very 
clean  two  pounds  of  rioe,  stew  it  till  per- 
fectly  tender  with  a  little  water,  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  some  salt,  whole  pepper, 
cloves  and  mace,  and  keep  the  ste\\|>an 
closely  covered;  boil  two  fowls  and  one 
poood  and  a  lialf  of  bacon,  put  the  bacon  in 
the  middle,  and  the  fowls  on  eacli  side,  cov- 
er them  all  over  with  the  rice,  and  garnish 
with  hard-boiled  eggs  and  fried  whole 
onions. 

PLOVERS,   TO   CHOOSE.      Choose 

them    by  the  hardness  of  the  vent,   which 

show*  .that    they   are   fat;   and   when  new, 

limber-footed.     In  other  respects, 

choose  them  by   the  same  marks  as  other 

There    are   three   sorts;   the  gray, 

green,  and  bastard  plover  or  lapwing. 

PLOVERS,  TO  DRESS.     Green  plov- 
ers  should    ta  dressed  the  same  as  wood- 
corks,  without  drawing,  and  served  on  a 
toast »      Gray  plovers  should  be  stewed. — 
Make  a  f'irceiiieat   with  the  yolks   of  two 
-  bruised,  some  marrow  cut  fine, 
artichoke     bottOM    cut    small,     and    sweet 
1  with  |x-p|xT,  salt,  and  nut- 
<tf  the   birds,  and  put  them  into  a 
saucepan,  \\ilh  ju-t  a    sufficient  <|iiaii(ily  of 
good    gravy    to    cover    them,    OIK;   glass  of 
white  wine,    and    a    blade    of  mace;    Cover 
them  clo-e,  and    let   them  MC\V   \>  • 

fa  up  the   plov- 

ihein  ill  a  dish,  keep  tllem  hot;  put 

f  butter  rolled   in  Hour,  to  thicken 

•-.  let  it  boil  till  smooth;    squeeze 

into  it  a  little-  lemon;   skim  it,  and  pom-  it 

o\er  the  plo\ 

POINT  DE  JOUR  FRITTERS.   Mix  ( 

with  two  handfhls  of  Hour  a  u'lasa  of  sweet  | 
wine,  a  tal.le— |:,,,.nfnl  of  brandy,  and  warm 
milk,  sufficient  to  make  il  into  a  |iu.-tc;  add 
I'M-  well-lieateii  whiles  of  four  e<,'!fn,  a  little 
minced  citron,  candied  orange-peel  or  cur- 
it  well  together,  and  drop  it 
through  a  wide  tin  funnel,  into  lxiiliii<r  lard. 
Serve  willi  pounded  loaf  sn.'ar  ,-trewcd  ou-r 
them. 

I'<>|\  KU>K.  i'llt  int..  a  newpan  a 
large  bunch  of  parsle\-li-;i\.-.  -.,1,1..  scallion-, 
iv-leave-,  a  little  thyme,  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  tine  white  |x-;>|»'i,  a  »i 
vinegar,  and  a  small  quantity  of  hntier;  pet 
the  pan  on  tli-  lire,  and  n-diice  thy  whole 


I  ill  nearly  all  gone,  when  add  two  ladlcfuls 
of  etpagnole,   and   one   of  stock;    reduce 
im  to  the  proper  consistence,  and 
strain  it  lor  use. 

PORK.  DAIRY-FED  pork  is  the  !x-<:  ; 
the  flesh  should  look  white  and  smooth,  and 
the  fat  IK-  while  and  line.  In  preparing  a 
hog  for  bacon,  the  rilis  are  cut,  with  a  very 
little  flesh  on  them,  from  die  side,  which 
has  the  fore  and  hind  leg  attached  to  it; 
the  bind  leg  is  tlx-n  called  a  gammon  of  ba- 
con, but  il  is  generally  reserved  for  a  ham. 
On  each  side  there  is  a  la  rife  spare  rib, 
which  is  usually  divided  into  two,  one  call- 
ed the  sweet  bone,  the  oilier  the  blade  Ume. 
There  are  also  grukins,  chine,  or  back 
bone. 

Hog's  lard  is  the  inner  fat  of  the  bacon 
hog. 

Porkers  are  not  s-)  old  a?  hogs;  they 
make  excellent  pickled  pork,  but  are  cho- 
sen more  particularly  lor  roasting. 

To  roa-it  a  le^r,  a  saiall  onion  is  minced 
together  with  three  sage  leaves,  - 
with  |X'p|K!r  and  salt,  and  put  under  the 
skin  at  the  knuckle  Ixmc;  the  skin  is  cut 
into  stri|«  nearly  half  an  inch  apart,  and 
rubbed  over  with  a  bit  of  butter.  If  weigh- 
ing seven  or  eight  pounds,  it  will  require 
nearly  three  hours  to  roast. 

A  spare  rib  should  be  roasted,  is  basted 
with  butter,  and  baa  sage  leaves  dried,  nib- 
bed to  a  powder,  and  mixed  with  salt  and 
pepper,  sprinkled  over  it. 

Both  a  loin  and    neck   are  jointed,  the 
skin  scored    in   narrow   strips,   and   inhbed 
with    butter.       If    wei^him;    HX    - 
fxmnds,  it  will  require  rather  more  than  two 
hours  to  ron.->t. 

A  griskin  may  be  either  broiled  • 
ed. 

A  chine  is  smiled  here  and  there  ni;h 
bread  crumbs,  mixed  UH|I  a  liltlc  butter, 
and  Masoned  with  some  linely  shred  ML'C, 
jKir.-ley,  and  lh\me,  >..me  j-epper  and  salt. 
The  skin  is  cut  into  strips  and  nibbed  with 
butter;  it  is  then  roasted,  and  served  with 
apple  sauce,  as  are  also  the  preceding 
roaaU. 

A  porker's  head  H  ctitfled  like  a  sticking 
pig,  sewed  (irmly,  and  huntf  on  a  string  to 

Tte  shoulder  may  be  roasted,  but,  being 

very  lal,  it  is  generally  preferred  pickled. 

The  breast  may  1»;  made  into  a  pi",  or 
broiled. 

To  l>oil  hams,  they  should  be  put  on  in 
water,  the  chill  taken  off,  and  simmered  for 
four  or  live  hours,  taking  care  not  to  allow 
them  lo  boil. 

The  prime  season  for  pork  is  from  No- 
vemU  r  to  .March. 

Take  particular  care  it  be  done  enough: 


P  OR 


148 


FOR 


other  meats  under-done  are  unpleasant,  but 
pork  is  absolutely  uneatable;  the  sight  of  it 
is  enough  to  appal  the  sharpest  appetite,  if 
its  gravy  has  the  least  tint  of  redness. 

Be  careful  of  the  crackling;  if  this  be 
not  crisp,  or  if  it  l>e  burned,  you  will  Ite 
scolded.  Pickled  Pork,  takes  Ynore  time 
than  any  other  meat.  If  you  buy  your  pork 
ready  salted,  ask  how  many  days  it  lias 
been  in  salt;  if  m:Mi\,  it  will  require  to  be 
soaked  in  water  for  six  hours  before  you 
dress  it.  When  you  cook  it,  wash  ami 
scrape  it  as  clean  as  possible;  when  deli- 
cately dressed,  it  is  a  favorite  dish  with  al- 
most everylx>dy.  Take  care  it  does  not 
boil  fast ;  "if  it  does,  the  knuckle  will  break 
to  pieces,  before  the  thick  part  of  the  meat 
is  warm  through;  a  \t~«  of  seven  pounds 
lakes  three  hours  and  a  half  Aery  slow  sim- 
mering. Skim  your  pot  very  carefully,  and 
when  you  take  the  meat  out  of  the  boiler, 
scrape  it  clean. 

\  leg  of  nice  jxirk,  nicely  salted,  and 
nicely  boiled,  is  as  fine  a  cold  relish  as  cold 
ham;  esjiecially  if,  instead  of  cutting  into 
the  middle  when  hot,  and  so  letting  out 
it*  juices,  you  cut  it  at  the  knuckle:  slices 
broiled  are  a  good  luncheon,  or  supper. 

Mem. — Some  |x?rsoMs  who  sell  pork  ready 
sailed  have  a  sillv  trick  of  cutting  the  knuc- 
kle in  two;  we  sup|xise  that  this  is  done  to 
s.i.'e  their  salt;  brt  it  lets  all  the  gravy  out 
of  the  leg;  and  unless  you  boil  your  pork 
iMorely  for  the  sake  of  the  pot-liquor,  which 
in  this  case  receives  all  the  goodness  and 
strength  of  the  meat,  friendly  reader,  your 
oracle  cautions  you  to  buy  no  leg  of  pork 
v.-hich  is  slit  at  the  knuckle. 

1 1"  pork  is  not  done  enough,  nothing  is  more 
disagreeable;  if  too  much,  it  not  only  loses 
'us  color  and  flavor,  but  its  substance  be- 
comes soft  like  a  jelly. 

It  must  never  apjx-arat  table  without  pars- 
nips; they  are  an  excellent  vegetable,  and 
deserve  to  be  much  more  popular;  or  carrots, 
turnips,  and  greens,  or  mashed  potatoes,  &c. 

Obs. — Remember  not  to  forget  the  mus- 
t,ird-|x>t. 

PORK,  LEG,  Of  eight  pounds,  will  re- 
quire about  three  hours :  score  tlie  sk  ins  across 
in  narrow  stri|>cs  (some  score  it  in  dia- 
monds), about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart; 
stuff  the  knuckle  with  sage  and  onion,  minced 
fine,  and  a  little  grated  bread,  seasoned  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg. 

Do  not  put  it  too  near  the  fire  :  rub  a  little 
sweet  oil  on  the  skin  with  a  paste-brush,  or 
a  goose-feather:  this  makes  the  crackling 
crisper  and  browner  than  basting  it  with 
dripping;  and  it  will  be  a  better  color  than 
all  the  art  of  cookery  can  make  it  in  any 
other  way  ;  mid  this  is  die  best  way  of  pre-  i 


venting  the  skin  from  blistering,  which  is 
principally  occasioned  by  its  being  put  too 
near  the  fire. 

PORK  Spare  Rib,  Usually  weighs  about 
eight  or  nine  pounds,  and  will  take  from  two 
to  three  hours  to  roast  it  thoroughly  ;  not  ex- 
actly according  to  its  weight,  but  the  thick- 
ness of  the  meat  upon  it  which  varies  very 
much.  Lay  the  thick  end  nearest  to  the 
fire. 

A.  proper  bald  spare  rib  of  eight  pounds 
weight  (so  called  because  almost  all  the  meat 
is  pared  off),  with  a  steady  fire,  will  be  done 
in  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  There  is  so  little 
meat  on  a  bald  spare  rib,  that  if  yon  have  a 
large,  fierce  fire,  it  will  be  burned  Itelorc  it 
is  warm  through.  Joint  it  nicely,  and  crack 
the  ribs  across  as  you  do  ribs  of  lamb. 

When  you  put  it  down  to  roast,  dust  on 
some  flour,  and  baste  it  with  a  little  butter  ; 
dry  a  dozen  sage  leaves,  and  rub  them  thr<  >u;;li 
a  hair-sieve,  and  put  them  into  the  t<>|>  of  a 
dredging-box ;  and  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
before  die  meat  is  done,  baste  it  with  butter ; 
dust  with  the  pulverized  sage. 

Obs. — Make  it  a  general  rule  never  to 
pour  gravy  over  any  thing  that  is  roasted; 
1;>y  so  doing,  the  dredging,  &c.  is  wasljcd  off, 
and  it  eats  insipid. 

Some  jx-ople  cane  a  spare  rib  by  cutting 
out  in  slices  the  thick  part  at  the  bottom  of 
the  bones.  When  this  meat  is  cut  away, 
tlie  bones  may  be  easily  separated,  and  are 
esteemed  verv  sweet  picking. 

Apple  sauce,  mashed  potatoes,  and  good 
mustard  are  indispensable. 

PORK  CHEESE.  Choose  tlie  head  of 
a  small  pig  which  may  weiijli  about  twelv« 
pounds  the  quarter.  Sprinkle  over  it  and 
the  tongues  of  four  pigs,  a  little  common  salt 
and  a  very  little  saltpetre.  Let  them  lie 
linn-  days,  wash  them,  and  tie  them  in  a  clean 
cloth;  boil  them  until  the  bones  will  come 
easily  out  of  the  head,  take  off  the  .-kin  as 
\\liole  as  possible,  place  a  bowl  in  hot  water 
and  put  in  the  licad,  cutting  it  into  small 
pieces.  In  the  bottom  of  a  round  tin,  shaped 
like  a  small  cheese,  lay  two  strips  of  cloth 
across  each  other,  they  must  be  loiiif  eiiouuli 
to  fold  over  the  top  when  tlie  shape  is  full, 
place  the  skin  round  the  tin, and  nearly  half 
fill  it  with  the  meat,  which  has  Ixt-n  highly 
seasoned  with  pepper,  cayenne  and  salt ;  put 
in  some  tongue  cut  into  slices,  then  the  rest  of 
the  meat  and  the  remainder  of  the  tongue, 
draw  the  cloth  tightly  across  the  top;  put  on 
it  a  board  or  a  plate  that  will  lit  into  the  sha|x>, 
and  place  on  it  a  heavy  weight,  which  must 
not  be  taken  off  till  it  be  quite  cold.  It  is 
eaten  with  vinegar  and  mustard,  and  served 
for  luncheon  or  supper. 


POT 


149 


POT 


POTATOES.  The  vegetable  kingdom 
affords  no  food  more  wholesome,  more  easily 
procured,  easily  prepared,  or  less  ex|xMisive, 
than  the  potato  :  yet.  although  this  most  useful 
vegetable  is  dressed  almost  every  day,  in 
almost  .  \crv  family,  for  one  plate  of  |>otat<x-s 
that  c<  Hues'  to  table  as  it  should  come,  ten  are 
spoiled. 

Wash  them,  but  do  not  pare  or  cut  them, 

unles.-  they  are  very  large.     Fill  a  saucepan 

half  full  of  potatoes  of  equal  size  (or  make 

them  so  bv  dividin?  the   laix'er  ones),  put  to 

them  as  much  colil  water  as  will  cover  them 

abonl  an   inch:   they  are  sooner  lioiled,  ami 

••••cy,  than  when  drowned  in   water. 

I  spoiled  bv  hav  MIL;  too 

little  water,  but  [Matoes  are  often  s| toiled  by 
too  iiincli  :  they  inn-it  merely  bft  Covered, and 
a  Mill'-  alloweil  t:-r  waste  in  Ixiilinu,  so  thai 
they  may  be  jn<t  c,,\ered  at  the  finish. 

Set  them  on  a  mr«lenite  lire  till  they  Ixiil  ; 
then  take  them  off,  and  |Mit  them  by  the  side 
of  the  lire  to  simmer  sl.iwly  till  they  are  soft 
enough  to  admit  a  fork  (place  no  de|>endence 
Oil  tin-  usual  test  of  their  skins'  clacking, 
which,  if  they  are  l»iled  fast,  will  happen  to 
some  (totatoes  when  they  are  if  it  half  done,  and 
the  insides  quite  hard).  Then  jxmr  tlt<'  wa- 
ter off  (if  you  let  the  potatoes  remain  in  the 
water  a  moment  after  they  are  done  eimiiuli, 
they  will  become  waxy  ami  watery),  uncover 
the  saucepan,  and  set  it  at  such  a  distance 
from  the  fire  as  will  secure  it  from  taming; 
tlioir  su|x'rt]uous  moisture  will  evaporate,  and 
the  potatoes  will  be  perfectly  dry  and  mealy. 

You  may  afterward  place  a  napkin,  folded 
op  to  the  size  of  the  saucepan's  diameter, 
over  the  imtators,  to  keep  them  hot  and 
mealy  till  wanted. 

This  method  of  managing  potatoes  is  in 
every  respect  equal  to  steaming  them  ;  and 
dressed  in  half  the  time. 

There  is  such  an  inlinite  variety  of  sorts 
and  -i/es  ofpOtlkMj  thai  it  is  ini[»is.-il>le  to 
nay  how  Ions;  tliey  will  take  duini;:  the  best 
way  i-  t»  try  them  with  a  link.  Moderate- 
Fixed  (xttaUtes  will  generally  '«•  done  enough 
in  liftecn  or  twenty  minutes. 

POTATOES,  NEW.  The  best  way  to 
clean  new  potatoes  is  to  nib  them  with  a 
i'lth  or  tlaimel,  or  scruhhin<;-hru.«li. 

.\>  w  |x>tatocs  are  poor,  watery,  and  insip- 
id, till  they  are  full  two  inches  in  diameter: 
they  are  not  worth  tlx*  trouble  of  boiling  be- 
fore midsummer  day. 

Ob*.  Some  cooks  prepare  sauces  to  pour 

over  |»>tatocs,  made  with  l)ittter,  sail,  and 
ppp|n-r,  or  uravy,  or  melted  tatter  and  ketch- 
Op;  or  stew  the  potatoes  in  ale,  or  water 
Reasoned  with  pepper  and  -all  ;  »i  liake  them 
with  hen  inu-  <>i  sprat*,  mixed  with  layers 
Of  potatoes,  sea-oned  with  pcp|>ei ,  salt,  sweet 
n  cut  mutton  or 

18* 


beef  into  slices,  and  lay  them  in  a  stewpan, 
and  on  them  potatoes  and  spices,  then  anoth- 
er layer  of  the  meat  alternately,  pouring  in 
a  little  water,  covering  it  up  very  close,  and 
boiling  it  slowly. 

POTATO  BALLS.  Mix  mashed  pota- 
toes with  the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  roll  them  into 
balls;  dour  them,  or  egg  and  bread-crumb 
them ;  and  fry  them  in  clean  drippings,  or 
brown  them  in  a  Dutch  oven. 

POTATO  BALLS  RAGOUT,  Are 
made  by  adding  to  a  pound  of  potatoes  a 
i|itarter  of  a  |x>und  of  grated  ham,  or  some 
sweet  herbs,  or  chopped  pareley,  an  onion  or 
eschalot,  sail,  pep|x-r,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  or  other  spice,  with  the  yolk  of  a 
couple  of  cijus  :  they  are  then  to  be  dressed 
as  Potato  Halls. 

Obs.  An  agreeable  vegetable  relish,  and 
a  good  .«upper-dish. 

POTATOES  BOILED,  TO  BROIL. 

After  tailing  potatoes  not  quite  sufficiently  to 
send  to  table,  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a 
clear  lire,  and  turn  them  frequently  till  they  are 
of  a  nice  brown  color  all  over;  serve  them 
hot ;  take  care  they  do  not  become  too  hard, 
as  that  spoils  the  flavor. 

POTATOES,  CASSEROLE.  Boil  and 
peel  some  good  mealy  potatoes,  pound  them, 
and  mix  with  them  some  butler,  cream,  and 
a  little  salt,  put  them  atant  an  inch  and  a 
half  high  upon  a  flat  dish,  and  leave  an  open- 
ing in  the  centre ;  bake  them  of  a  light  brown 
color,  and  take  out  as  much  from  the  ceiitrt; 
as  will  admit  of  a  ragout,  fricassee,  or  mac- 
aroni, being  put  into  it. 

POTATOES,  COLCANNON.  Boil 
potatoes  and  greens,  or  spinage,  separately ; 
mash  the  potatoes ;  squeeze  the  greens  dry ; 
chop  them  quite  line  atxl  mix  them  wilh  the 
potatoes,  with  a  little  butter,  pepper,  and 
salt;  put  it  into  a  mould,  buttering  it  well 
first ;  let  it  stand  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  min- 
utes. 

POTATO      CROQUETTES.      When 

boiled  and  peeled,  allow  four  large  mealy 
potato's,  half  tlieir  weight  of  butter  and  of 
(XHinded  loaf  sugai',  two  eggs  beaten,  half 
the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  salt; 
pound  tlie  potatoes  in  a  mortar  with  die 
other  ingredients;  beat  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs ;  roll  up  the  croquettes ;  dip  them  into 
the  U-aieii  eggs,  and  roll  them  in  sifted  bread 
cmnib-i;  in  an  hour,  roll  them  again  as  be- 
iry  them  in  Uilter;  put  tU'in  upon 
the  hack  of  a  sieve  before  the  fire  to  drain. 

POTATO    EGGS.       Mash    perfectly 


POT 


150 


POT 


smooth  six  or  seven  boiled  potato??,  add  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  the  bea- 
ten yolk  of  an  egg,  half  an  onion  pounded, 
a  little  boiled  minced  parsley,  some  |>epper 
and  salt;  make  it  into  the  form  of  small 
eggs  or  pears,  roll  them  into  a  well-beaten 
egg,  and  then  into  grated  bread  crammed, 
with  pepper  and  salt ;  fry  them  in  plenty  of 
lard  or  dripping  till  they  are  of  a  fine  brown 
color,  lay  them  before  the  fire  to  drain ; 
serve  them  with  a  fringe  of  fried  parsley. 

POTATOES  FRIED*  IN  SLICES 
OR  RIBBONS.  Peel  large  potatoes;  slice 
them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  or 
cut  them  in  shavings  round  and  round,  as 
you  would  peel  a  lemon ;  dry  them  well  in  a 
clean  cloth,  and  fry  them  in  lard  or  dripping. 
Take  care  that  your  fat  and  frying-pan  are 
quite  clean;  put  it  on  a  quick  fire,  watch  it, 
and  as  soon  as  the  lard  boils,  and  is  still, 
put  in  the  slices  of  potato,  and  keep  moving 
them  till  they  are  crisp.  Take  them  up, 
and  lay  them  to  drain  on  a  sieve  :  send  them 
up  with  a  very  little  salt  sprinkled  over  them. 

POTATOES  FRIED  WHOLE.  When 
nearly  boiled  enough,  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  bit  of  butter,  or  some  nice  clean 
beef-drippings;  shake  them  about  often  (for 
fear  of  burning  them),  till  they  are  brown 
and  crisp;  drain  them  from  the  fat.  Obs. — 
It  will  be  an  elegant  improvement  previous 
to  frying  or  broiling  the  potatoes,  to  flour 
them  and  dip  them  in  the  yolk  of  an  eg*;, 
and  then  roll  them  in  fine-sifted  bread- 
crumbs; they  will  then  deserve  to  be  called 

POTATOES  FOLL  DRESSED. 

POTATOES  RAW  OR  COLD,  TO 
FRY.  Wash,  peel,  and  put  them  into  cold 
water  for  one  or  two  hours,  cut  them  into 
slices  about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  fry  them 
a  light  brown  in  boiling  clarified  beef  suet. 
Cold  boiled  potatoes,  cut  in  slices,  may  be 
done  in  the  same  manner. 

POTATO  FRITTERS.  Peel,  and 
pound  in  a  mortar,  six  mealy  potatoes,  with 
a  little  salt,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  some 
pounded  sugar,  cinnamon,  and  an  ounce  of 
butter ;  roll  it  out  with  a  little  flour,  cut 
them  the  size  of  a  wine  glass,  and  fry  tliem 
in  Ixiiling  clarified  dripping.  Serve  them 
with  sifted  loaf  sugar  over  them. 

POTATOES,  MASHED.  (1)  When, 
your  potatoes  are  thoroughly  boiled,  drain 
them  quite  dry,  pick  out  every  s|x-ck,  &c.  and 
while  hot,  rub  them  through  a  colander  into 
a  clean  stewpan.  To  a  |xmnd  of  potatoes 
put  alxuit  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  t.i- 
ble-spoontiil  of  milk :  do  not  spake  them  too 
moist;  mix  them  w<ll  together.  Obs. — 


When  the  potatoes  are  getting  old  and 
specky,  and  in  frosty  weather,  this  is  the 
!«•> t  way  of  dressing  them.  You  may  put 
them  into  shapes  or  small  tea-cups;  egg 
them  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  brown  them  very 
slightly  before  a  slow  fire. 

POTATOES,  MASHED.  (2)  Boil  the 
potatoes,  peel  and  mash  them  very  smoothly ; 
put  for  a  large  dish  four  ounces  of  butter, 
two  eggs  beat  up  in  half  a  pint  of  good  milk, 
and  some  salt ;  mix  them  well  together, 
heap  it  upon  a  dish  with  a  table-spoon  to 
give  it  a  rough  and  rocky  appearance,  or 
put  it  on  a  dish  and  score  it  with  a  knife, 
dip  a  brush  or  feather  into  melted  butter, 
and  brush  over  the  lop  lightly  ;  put  it  into 
a  Dutch  oven,  and  let  it  brown  gradually 
for  an  hour  or  more.  To  mash  potatoes  in 
a  plain  way,  mix  with  them  two  ounces  of 
butter,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a  little  salt. 
When  mashed  potatoes  are  not  browned,  it 
is  a  great  improvement  to  add  pepper,  salt, 
and  one  onion  minced  as  finely  as  possible; 
heat  the  potatoes  in  a  saucepan,  and  serve 
them  hot. 

POTATOES,  ROASTED.  Wash  and 
dry  your  potatoes,  (all  of  a  size),  and  put 
them  in  a  tin  Dutch  oven,  or  cheese-toaster: 
take  care  not  to  put  tliem  too  near  the  fire, 
or  they  will  get  burned  on  the  outside  before 
they  are  warmed  through.  Large  potatoes 
will  require  two  hours  to  roast  them. 
N.  B.  To  save  time  and  trouble,  some 
cooks  half  boil  them  first.  This  is  one  of 
the  l>est  opportunities  the  BAKER  has  to 
rival  the  cook. 

POTATOES  ROASTED  UNDER 
MEAT.  Half  Ixiil  larsfe  potatoes,  drain  the. 
water  from  them,  and  put  them  into  an  earth- 
en  dish,  or  small  tin  (KIM,  under  meat  that  is 
roasting,  and  baste  them  with  some  of  the 
dripping:  when  they  are  browned  on  one 
side,  turn  them  and  brown  th:-  other;  si-mi 
tliem  up  round  the  meat,  or  in  a  small  dish. 

POTATOES  SCALLOPED.  Mash  ,*,. 
tatoes  as  directed,  then  butter  some  nice 
clean  scollop-shells,  patty-|Kins,  or  te,i-cii|,s 
or  saucers;  put  in  your  |x>tatocs;  make 
tlwm  smooth  at  the  top;  cross  a  knife  over 
i  them;  strew  a  lew  tine  bread-crumbs  on 
them:  sprinkle  them  with  a  paste-brush 
with  a  few  drops  of  melted  butter,  and  then 
set  them  in  a  Dutch  o\en;  when  they  are 
browned  on  tlie  top,  take  them  carefully  out 
of  the  shells,  and  brown  the  other  side. 

POTATO  SNOW.     The  potatoes  must 

I):'  lire  from  sjwiN.  and  tile  whitest  you  can 
pick  out  ;  put  them  on  in  cold  water;  when 
they  Ix'gin  to  crack,  strain  the  water  from 


POT 


151 


POU 


them,  and  put  them  into  a  clean  stcwpan  by 
of  the  fire  till  they  are  quite  dry, 
and  fall  to  pieces ;  rub  them  through  a  wire 
sieve  on  the  dish  they  are  to  lie  sent  up  in, 
and  do  not  disturb  them  afterward. 

POT  POURRI.  Gather,  when  perfect- 
ly dry,  a  peck  of  roses;  pick  off  the  leaves, 
and  strew  over  them  three-qtiarters  of  a 
pound  of  <•< numon  salt;  let  them  remain 
two  or  three  days,  and  if  any  fresh  flowers 
are  added,  some  more  salt  should  be  sprin- 
tliem.  Mix  with  the  roses  half  a 
pound  of  tinely-pounded  bay  silt,  the  same 
quantity  of  allspice,  of  cloves,  and  of  brown 
•  i|iiarter  of  a  pound  of  zuin-henju- 
miu,  and  two  ounces  of  orris-root ;  add  a 
glare  of  brandy,  and  any  sort  of  fragrant 
flown.  Mich  as  orange  and  lemon  (lowers 
rosemary,  and  a  threat  quantity  of  lavender 
flowers — also  white  lilies:  a  green  orange 
stuck  with  cloves  may  be  added.  All  the 
flowers  must  be  gathered  perfectly  dry. 

l'i  •  I  I  I  Mi  BEEF,  VEAL,  GAME,  or 
POULTRY.  Take  three  pound*  of  lean 
gravy  beef,  nil)  it  well  with  an  ounce  of 
salt|«-tre.  and  tncn  a  hanilful  of  common 
salt ;  let  it  lie  in  salt  for  a  couple  of  days, 
rubbing  it  well  each  day;  then  put  it  into 
11  |>an  or  stone  jar  that  will  just 
hold  it;  rover  it  will)  the  skin  and  fat  that 
you  rut  oir,  and  pour  in  half  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter; cover  it  close  with  paste,  and  set  it  in 
a  \er\  >'ow  oven  (or  about  four  hours. 

\Viieu  it  comes  from  the  oven,  drain  the 
gra\v  tVoni  it  into  a  basin ;  pick  out  the  gris- 
tle* and  the  skins;  mince  it  fine;  moisten  it 
with  a  little  of  the  gravy  you  poured  from 
the  meat,  which  is  a  very  strou<;  consomme 
(lint  rather  silt),  and  it  will  make  excellent 
pease  soup,  or  browning;  pound  the  incut 
patiently  and  thoroughly  in  .1  mortar  with 
(.-•line  fn  li  butter,  till  it  is  a  line 

••<  I  meat  smooth  there  is  nothing 
eijital  to  plenty  of  elbow-grease) ;  seasoning 
it  l>y  decrees,  as  vou  are  leafing  it,  with 
a  little  black  jit-ppcr  and  allspice,  or  cloves 
p'iunde.1.  in-  mace,  or  graleii  mi- 

Put   it   in  |vts,  pi-ess  it  down  as  close  as 

I   cover  it   a  f|'iartiT  of  an    inch 

thick  with  clarified  l>ntter;  and  if  \ou  wish 

' ii.it  tie  a 

Ke  'p  it  in  a  dry  place. 
iv  mince  a  liitle  h.iai  or  bacon,  or 
an  and;  >    herlw,  or  an 

eschalot,  and  a  little  larni^.-n.  chenil.  or 
bnniet.  >vcc.,  and  (XMind  them  with  tin-  incut, 
with  a  Lrlass  of  wine,  or  some  mustard,  or 

It  is  a  MTV  agreeable  and  cc.-momical 
way  of  using  tlie  n  in  or  poul- 

try, or  a  l.nx'c  joint  of  eillier  roasted  or 
boiled  beef,  >eal,  ham,  or  ti.ngnc,  &c.  to  I 


mince  it  with  some  of  the  fat,  or  moisten 
it  with  a  little  butter,  and  beat  it  in  a  mor- 
tar with  the  seasoning,  &c. 

Meat  that  has  been  boiled  down  for 
gravies,  &c.  (which  ha.«  heretofore  been 
considered  the  perquisite  of  the  cat)  and  ia 
completely  drained  of  all  its  succulence,  beat 
in  a  mortar  with  salt  and  a  little  ground 
black  [x'pper  and  allspice,  as  directed  in 
the  fore-joing  receipt,  and  it  will  make  as 
good  potted  beef  as  meat  that  hag  been 
baked  till  its  moisture  is  entirely  extracted, 
which  it  must  be,  or  it  will  not  keep  two 
days. 

M  K  M. — Meat  that  has  not  been  previous- 
ly salted,  will  not  keep  go  long  as  that 
which  has. 

POULTRY.  In  choosing  a  turkey,  the 
youn<r  cock  bird  is  to  be  preferred  ;  tlie  best 
have  black  legs,  and  if  young,  the  toes  and 
bill  are  pliable  and  feel  soft.  A  hen  turkey 
is  chi-sen  by  the  same  rules. 

l-'owls  with  black  legs  are  the  l>est;  if 
fresh,  the  vent  is  close  and  dark  ;  if  young, 
the  coml)s  are  bright  in  the  color,  and  die 
legs  smooth — tlie  spurs  of  a  young  cock  are 
short. 

A  goose,  if  young  and  fine,  is  plump  in 
the  breast,  the  fat  white  and  soft,  the  feet 
yellow,  and  but  few  hairs  upon  them. 

Ducks  may  be  chosen  by  the  same  rules, 
and  are  hard  and  thick  on  the  breast  and 
belly. 

-  should  be  quite  fresh,  the  breast 
plump  and  fat,  the  feet  elastic,  and  neither 
flabby  nor  discolored  at  tlie  vent. 

To  prepare  a  turkey  for  dressing,  every 
|)|HL'  is  carefully  picked  out;  and  in  drawing 
tnrkevs  and  fowls,  care  must  be  taken  not 
to  break  llie  gall  bair,  nor  the  -,'iit  which 
joins  tlie  gizzard,  as  it  is  impossible  to  re- 
move the  bitterness  of  tin-  one,  or  the  gritti- 
ii'—  of  the  other.  Tlie  hairs  are  si 
with  white  paper;  tlie  leg-bone  is  broken 
close  to  tlie  foot,  an<i  the  sinews  drawn  on: 
— a  cloth  is  then  p-.it  over  the  bi> 
tin-  Ix.ne  flattened  with  a  rolling-pin,  the 
liver  and  gizzard,  made  delicately  < 
f.i-!cned  into  each  pinion.  A  stnin 
••.i'ii  sausage  meat,  adding  some  grated 
bread,  and  mixing  it  with  the  l>ea;ea  yolks 
_'*,  or  a  shilling  as  for  a  fillet  of 
\i-al.  i-  tlicn  put  into  the  btvast,  and  the 
turkey,  well  nibbed  over  with  lloiir,  is  put 
down  to  roast.  It  is  basted  constantly  with 
l«Mter,  and  when  the  steam  draws  towards 
tile  lire,  it  is  nearly  done; — it  is  tlicn  dredg- 
ed with  Hour,  and  basted  -.lith  more  Uitter, 
served  with  j;ra\y  in  the  dish,  and  mi  niched 
with  sausages,  or  with  f-rcenieat  balls  if 
veal  -tiiMini.'  is  used,  and  bread  .-auce  in  a 
sauce  tiirtvn. 

To  boil  a  turkey.     After  being  nicely 


POIT 


152 


PRESERVES 


cleaned,  it  is  trussed  with  the  legs  drawn  in 
under  the  skin,  stuffed  with  a  forcemeat,  as 
(or  veal,  adding  a  few  chopped  oysters; 
then  boiled  in  a  well-floured  cloth,  and  serv- 
ed with  oyster,  white  or  celery  sauce,  poured 
over  it,  and  alto  some  in  a  sauce  tureen. 
Boiled  ham,  tongue,  or  pickled  pork,  is  eat- 
en with  it.  A  large-sized  turkey  will  require 
more  than  two  hours  to  boil.  Turkey,  with 
celery  sauce,  is  stuffed  and  trussed  neatly, 
laid  all  over  with  slices  of  bacon,  tied  in  a 
cloth,  and  boiled  in  water,  with  a  little  salt, 
butter,  and  lemon-juice  added.  It  is  served 
thickly  covered  with  celery  sauce. 

Turkey  poults  are  stuffed  and  roasted  in 
the  same  manner  as  a  full-grown  turkey. 
They  will  require  rather  more  than  an  hour 
to  roast.  They  are  dressed  with  the  heads 
t\\  -istcd  under  the  wing,  as  are  also  turkeys 
sometimes,  but  it  seems  an  injudicious  cus- 
tom, as  the  side  on  which  the  head  is  cannot 
Ix?  nicely  browned,  and  in  carving,  the  blood 
from  the  neck  is  apt  to  mingle  with  the 
gravy. 

To  roost  a  fowl.  It  is  picked,  nicely 
cleaned,  and  singed;  the  neck  is  cut  off 
close  by  the  hick  ;  the  fowl  is  then  washed, 
and  if  a  large  one,  stuffed  with  forcemeat. 
It  is  trussed  and  dredged  with  flour;  and 
when  put  down  to  roast,  basted  well  with 
butter,  and  frothed  up.  When  the  steam  is 
observed  to  draw  towards  the  fire,  it  is 
sufficiently  done  ;  served  with  gravy  in  the 
dish,  and  bread  sauce  in  a  butter  tureen. 
A  good-sized  fowl  will  require  above  an  hour 
to  roast. 

Chickens  are  roasted  as  the  above,  and 
served  with  gravy  in  the  dish,  which  is 
garnished  with  fried  eggs,  and  bread  sauce 
in  a  sauce  tureen  ;  they  will  require  from 
half  an  hour  to  three-quarters  to  roast. 

To  boil  a  fowl.  When  nicely  singed, 
washed,  and  trussed,  it  is  well  dredged  with 
flour,  and  put  nit  in  boiling  water,  and  if  a 
large  one,  boiled  nearly  an  hour.  It  is 
served  with  parsley  and  butter,  white,  or 
Jiver  sauce. 

Two  boiled  fowls,  served  with  a  tongue 
between  them,  make  a  handsome  top  dish. 

Boiled  chickens  are  improved  by  being 
stuffed,  and  will  require  nearly  half  an  hour 
to  boil. 

To  roast  a  goose.  After  being  well 
cleaned,  picked,  and  singed,  it  is  washed, 
made  jjcrfectly  dry,  and  stuffed  with  about 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  bread,  an  on- 
ion finely  minced,  together  with  three  sage- 
loaves,  seasoned  with  salt  and  |X'p|>er,  and 
mixed  with  a  well-beaten  egg;  or,  the  j 
stuffing  is  made  of  boiled  mashed  potatoes, 
seasoned  in  the  same  way  as  the  other-,  and 
mixed  with  a  Ix-aten  r£j<j.  If  roasted  on  a 
spit,  each  end  is  tied  on  tightly;  it  is  basted 
at  first  with  a  little  bit  of  butter,  after  which  •• 


the  fat  that  drops  from  it  is  used.  It  is 
served  with  tjravy  in  the  dish,  and  apple 
sauce  in  a  sauce  tureen.  A  large  goose  will 
require  an  hour  and  a  half  to  roast.  At  ta- 
ble, an  opening  is  cut  in  the  apron,  and  a 
glass  of  Port  wine,  with  which  is  mixed  a 
large  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard,  is  pour- 
ed into  the  body  of  the  goose.  This  is  also 
an  improvement  to  ducks. 

A  green  goose,  atjout  two  or  three  months 
old,  is  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  only, 
and  requires  to  be  basted  with  butter.  It 
requires  about  an  hour  to  roast. 

To  roast  ducks.  They  are  nicely 'picked, 
cleaned,  singed,  and  washed,  seasoned  with 
pepper  and  salt;  or  stufled,  and  served  with 
gravy,  as  directed  in  pp.  66,  67.  A  duck 
may  be  boiled  for  nearly  an  hour,  and  served 
with  onion  sauce  poured  over  it. 

PRESERVES,  SWEETMEATS.  &c. 

All  sweetmeats  should  be  preserved  in  a 
brass  pan,  which  must  1x3  well  scoured  with 
sand  and  vinegar,  washed  with  hot  water, 
and  wiped  perfectly  dry  before  it  is  used. 

An  iron  plate  or  stove  is  preferable  to  a 
fire  for  preserving  on;  and  by  Ixiiling  the 
fruit  quickly,  the  form,  color,  and  flavor, 
will  be  belter  preserved,  and  there  will  be 
less  waste  than*  in  slow  boiling.  A  round 
wooiien  stick,  smaller  at  one  end  than  at 
the  other,  in  Scotland  called  a  thevil,  is 
lietter  adapted  for  stirring  sugar  or  preserves 
with  than  a  silver  spoon,  which  last  is  only 
used  for  skimming.  That  there  may  lie  no 
waste  in  taking  off  the  scum,  it  is  put  through 
a  line  silk  sieve,  or  through  a  hair  sieve, 
with  a  l)it  of  muslin  laid  into  it;  the  clear 
part  will  run  into  the  vessel  placed  lxjlow, 
and  may  be  returned  to  the  preserving- 
pan. 

A  silver  soup  ladle  is  used  for  putting  pre- 
serves into  the  jars,  which  should  l)e  of 
brown  stone,  or  of  white  wedtjewood  ware. 
After  the  jellies  or  preserves  are  put  in,  they 
must  not  be  moved  till  quite  cold,  when  they 
are  covered  with  a  piece  of  white  paper,  cut 
so  as  to  fit  into  the  jar,  and  dipped  into  brandy 
or  rum.  They  are  then  stored  in  a  cool  dry 
place,  and  should  be  looked  at  occaMon.dlv. 
If  in  a  few  weeks  they  be  observed  to  fer- 
ment, the  sirup  should  be  first  strained  from 
the  fruit,  then  boiled  till  it  is  thick,  and 
again  poured  over  the  fruit,  previously  put 
into  clean  jars. 

Sugar,  low  in  price,  and  consequently 
coarse  in  quality,  is  far  from  lx?ing  rlieapest 
in  the  end ;  while  that  which  is  most  refin- 
ed is  always  the  best.  White  sugars  should 
Ix;  chosen  as  shining  and  as  close  in  texture 
as  possible. 

The  best  sort  of  brown  sugar  has  a  bright 
and  gravelly  appearance. 

A  jellv-bag  is  made  of  half  a  square  of 


PRESERVES 


153 


PRESERVES 


flannel  folded  by  PIP  corner?,  and  one  side 
sewed  up;  the  \<-\>  bound  with  tape,  and 
four  loops  also  of  t;i|xj  sewed  on. 
liang  upon  a  stand  made  of  four  Kirs  of 
wood,  each  thirty -six  incites  in  height,  fast- 
ened w  i :  >  i  the  top,  each  meas- 
uring ten  inches  uith  hooks  upon  the  cor- 
ners. Twelve  in  -hes  from  die  bottom  four 
more  bars  arc  placed.  A  pan  or  basin  is 
put  underneath  to  receive  tlie  juice  or  jelly 
as  it  drops  dirough  the  bag. 

To  save  Sugar  in  Preserving  Cher- 
ries, Green  Gages,  Damsons,  Currants, 
and  Raspberrii .-..  Gather  the  fruit  perfectly 
dry,  and  to  a  ixniiul  allow  five  ounces  of  finely- 
pounded  lo;:f.-u^'ir;  put  a  layer  of  fruit  into  a 
wide-mouthed  bottle  or  jar,  and  then  one  of 
sugar,  till  the  \essel  is  full ;  tie  over  it  tightly 
two  fold*  of--' HIM  1  bladder,  and  put  them  into 
acop|>cror  pan,  witli  straw  in  the  bottom, 
and  water  :i-  in  Ji  a.-  the  necks,  and  let  them 
simmer  for  three  hours.  When  the  water 
':.<•  out  the  bottles,  and  keep  them 
in  a  cool  dry  . 

FRUIT,      WITHOUT 

SHJAi;  misons   when   not    too 

k  off  the  stalks,  and  put  them  into 
wide-mouihed  uU,-s  Wtles,  taking  care  not 
to  put  iii  any  but  what  are  whole,  and  with- 
out blemi.-h;  shake  them  well  down  (other- 
I  will  not  l«  half  full  when 
done);  .-top  the  Wiles  with  new  soft  corks, 
not  too  ti^'ht;  set  them  into  a  very  slow  oxen 
(nearly  e,>li!)  four  or  li\e  hours;  the  slower 
;  :n-  better;  wlx-n  they  begin 
to  ~\\\  ink  in  the  Wll.-s,  it  H  a  sure  siijii  that 
Uie  fruit  i-  thoroughly  warm:  Like  them 
out,  an.!  ue  cold,  drive  in  the 

corks  quite  1'uh:;  «-t  them  in  a  hit  tie-rack  or 
bask,  t,  uiih  ill.-  month  downwards,  and  they 
will  n- 

.  morello  cherries,  cur- 
rants, green  gages,  or  bullace,  may  be  done 

Obs. — lit!,,  r.iik-  are  good,  and  fit  well, 

II  IK-  no  occasion  for  cemenlini; 
tin  in;  I.IK  -:  -ild  bungs  be  used,  it  will  be 
necessary . 

AITI.KS.     (1)      Pare,    core, 

and  quarter  six   (xninds  of  good  hard  bak- 
ing apples;   finely  poinul   lour  |x>unds  of  loaf 

i-.er  of  each  alternately,  with 
h.ilf  n  pound  of  the  beat  white  ginger, into  a 
jar;  let  i:  md-foity  hour*;  iiifn-.-, 

for  half  (hat  time,  in  a  little  Ixiili 
half  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bruised  white 
strain  and  lx>il  the  liquor  with  tin- 
apples  till  thev  look  clear,  ami  tin-  sirup  rich 
and  thick,  whii  h  may  be  in  about  an  hour. 
Take  (.tt 'tl -.1  • -i-niii  as  it  rises.  XV hen  to  be 
eaten,  pick  out  the  whole  ginger. 


PRESERVED  APPLES.  (2 
equal  quantities  of  good  brown  sugar  and  of 
apples;  peel, cote,  and  mince  them  small.  Boil 
the  su^ar,  allowing  to  every  three  pounds  a 
pint  of  water;  skim  it  well,  and  boil  it  pretty 
thick;  then  add  die  apples,  the  grati-d  ]jeel 
of  one  or  two  lemons,  and  two  or  three 
pieces  of  white  ginger;  boil  till  the  apples 
fall,  and  look  clear  and  yellow.  This  pre- 
serve will  keep  for  years. 

APPLES,     GREEN     COD- 
LINGS.     Gather   the  codlings   when  not 

bilker  than  French  walnuts  with  the  stalks 
and  a  leaf  or  two  on  each.  Put  a  handful  of 
\  ine  lea\es  into  a  piv-n  \  ing-pan,  then  a  layer 
of  codlings,  then  vine  leaves,  and  then  cod- 
lings and  vine  leaves  alternately,  until  it  is 
full,  with  vine  leaves  pretty  thickly  strewed 
on  the  top,  and  fill  the  pan  with  spi 
ter;  cover  it  close  to  keep  in  the  steam,  and 
set  it  on  a  slow  fire  till  die  apples  U-eome 
soft.  Take  them  out,  and  pare  off  the 
rinds  widi  a  penknife,  and  then  put  them 
into  the  same  water  again  with  the  vine 
leaves,  but  taking  care  that  die  water  is 
become  quite  cold,  or  it  will  cause  them 
to  crack;  put  in  a  little  alum  and  set 
them  over  a  slow  fire  till  they  are  green, 
when,  take  them  out  and  lay  them  on  a 
sieve  to  drain.  Make  a  good  simp  and 
give  diem  a  gentle  boil  three  succe-.-ive 
days;  then  put  diem  in  small  jars  with 
brandy  paper  over  diem,  and  tie  diem 
down  tight. 

APPLES,   GOLDEN  PIPPINS. 

Take  die  rind  of  an  orange  and  boil  it  \i-ry 
tender;  lay  it  in  cold   water  lor  three  . 
take  two  dozen   golden  pippins,  pare,  core, 
and  quarter  them,  and  boil  them  to  a  strong 
jelly,  and  nin  it  dirough  a  jelly-bag  till  it  is 
clear;   take  the  same  quantity   of  pippins, 
pare  and  core  diem,  and   put   three  jxiunds 
of  loaf  sugar  in  a    preserving-pan    w  ith    a 
pint  and  a  half  of  spring  water;    let  it  Ixiil  ; 
skim  it  well   and  put  in  your  pippins,  w  ith 
the  orange  rind  cut  into  long   diin   sli|>s; 
then  let  diem  boil  fast  till  die  sugar  becomes 
thick  and  will   almost  candy;    then  put  in  a 
pint  and  half  of  pi|>pin  jelly,  and  boil  f;ist 
till  the  jelly   is   c  I ,.;ir;    tln-n  squec/e   in  die 
juice  of  a   fine  lemon  ;   gi\c  file   who  lean- 
other  !«iil,  and    put  the   pippins   in    pots  or 

with  the  oraii!{c-|xvl. 
I>-mon-|x-cl   may  be;   ti.-ed    in-tead  of  or- 
ange, but   dien  it  fiuist  only  be   boiled,  mid 
notioaked. 


.    Ai'KiroTS.      1'arp  your    ap- 

ricnt.-,  and  SI..IH-  what  you  can  whole,  tlicn 
yive  tin-in  a  li^'lit  Wliug  in  water  propor- 
tioned to  the  quantity  of  fruit,  only  just 
enough;  dtcn  take  (!M- weight  of  die  apricoU 


PRESERVES 


154 


PRESERVES 


in  sugar,  and  take  the  liquor  in  which  they 
have  boiled,  and  the  sugar,  and  boil  it  till 
it  conies  to  a  sirup,  and  give  them  a  light 
boiling,  taking  off  the  scum  as  it  rises. 
When  the  sirup  jellies  it  is  enough ;  then 
take  tip  the  apricots  anil  cover  them  with 
the  jelly;  put  cut  paper  over  them,  and  lay 
them  down  when  cold. 

BLACK  CURRANTS.   Gather 

the  currants  upon  a  dry  day;  to  every 
pound  allow  half  a  pint  of  red  currant 
juice,  and  a  pound  and  a  half  of  finely- 
pounded  loaf  sugar.  With  scissors  clip  off 
the  heads  and  stalks ;  put  the  juice,  sugar, 
and  currants  into  a  preserving  pan;  shake 
it  frequently  till  it  boils;  carefully  remove 
the  fruit  from  the  sides  of  the  pan,  and  take 
off  the  scum  as  it  ri^es ;  let  it  boil  for  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes.  This  preserve  may  be  eat- 
en with  cream,  and  made  into  tarts. 


CHERRIES.     To  a  pound  of 

cherries    allow    three-quarters   of  a    pound 
of  pounded  loaf  sugar;  carefully  stone  them, 
and  as  they  are  done,  strew  part  of  the  su- 
gar over  them;  boil  them  fast,  with  the  re- 
mainder of  the  sugar,  till  the   fruit  is  clear 
and  the  sirup  thick ;  take  off  the  scum  as  it 
rises.     Or  they  may  be  boiled  ten  minutes 
in  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar,  which  has 
been  previously  clarified   and  boiled  candy 
high.     Part  of  the  kernels  may  be  added. 

CUCUMBERS.      Take   large 

and   fresh-gathered    cucumbers; 'split   them 
down  and  take  out  all  the  seeds ;  lay  them 
in   salt  and  water  that  will   bear  an  egg, 
three  days;  set   them   on  a  fire  with  cold 
water,  and  a  small  lump  of  alum,  and  boil 
them  a  few  minutes,  or  till  tender;    drain 
them,  and  pour  on  them  a   thin  sirup;  let 
them  lie  two  days;  boil  the  simp  again,  and 
put  it  over  the  cucumbers;  repeat  it  twice 
more;   then  have  ready  some  fresh  clarified 
sugar,  boiled  to  a  blow ;  put  in  the  cucumbers, 
simmer  it  five  minutes;  set  it  by  till  next 
day;  boil  the  simp   and  cucumbers  again, 
and  set  them  in  glasses  for  use. 

< CUCUMBERS,  SMALL. 

Weigh  equal  proportions  of  small  green  cu- 
cumbers and  of  fine  loaf  sugar,  clarify  it; 
rub  the  cucumbers  with  a  cloth,  scald  them 
in  hot  water,  and,  when  cold,  put  them  into 
the  sirup,  witl\  some  white  ginger  and  the 
peel  of  a,  lemon ;  boil  them  gently  for  ten 
minutes.  The  following  day  just  let  them 
boil,  and  rejxjat  this  three  times,  and  the 
last,  boil  them  till  tender  and  clear. 


nately  a  layer  of  damsons,  and  one  of  sugar ; 
tie  them  over  with  bladder  or  strong  paper, 
and  put  them  into  an  oven  after  the  bread  is 
withdrawn,  and  let  them  remain  till  the  oven 
is  cold.  The  following  day  strain  off  the 
sirup,  and  boil  it  till  thick.  When  cold, 
put  the  damsons  one  by  one  into  small  jars, 
and  pour  over  them  the  sirup,  which  must 
cover  them.  Tie  them  over  with  wet 
bladder. 


DAMSONS.     (2)   Prick  them 

with  a  needle,  and  boil  them  with  sugar 
the  same  proportion  as  in  the  receipt  to 
preserve  damsons,  till  the  sirup  will  jelly. 
Carefully  take  off  all  the  scum. 


DAMSONS.  (1)  To  even,  pound 

of  damsons  allow  three-quarters  of  a  pourtd 
of  pounded  loaf  sugar;   put  into  jars  alter- 


GREEN    GAGES.      Put   die 

plums  into  boiling  water,  pare  off  the  skin, 
and  divide  them ;  take  an  equal  quantity  of 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  strew  half  of  it  over  the 
fruit;  let  it  remain  some  hours,  and,  with 
(he  remainder  of  the  sugar,  put  it  into  a 
preserving  pan ;  boil  till  the  plums  look 
quite  clear,  take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises, 
and  a  few  minutes  before  taking  them  off 
the  fire,  add  the  kernels. 

LARGE    SWEET    GREEN 

GOOSEBERRIES.  (1)  Weigh  equal  pro- 
portions of  sugar  and  of  fruit;  with  a  pen- 
knife  slit  the  gooseberries  on  one  side,  and 
take  out  all  the  seeds;  put.  them  into  a  pre- 
serving pan  with  cold  water,  scald  them; 
pour  off  the  water  when  cold ;  put  over  and 
under  therifvine  leaves,  with  more  cold  water  j 
set  them  over  the  fire  to  green.  Clarify  the  su- 
gar ;  put  die  gooseljerries  into  a  deep  jar,  and 
pour  the  boiling  sirup  over  them;  in  two 
days  pour  it  off,  boil,  and  put  it  over  the 
fruit ;  repeat  this  till  die  sirup  becomes  thick, 
then  put  them  into  small  jars. 

LARGE     SWEET    GREEN 

GOOSJEBERRIKS.  (2)  Gather  the  largest- 
si/ed  <iou.--eben  ies,  and  allow  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  pounded  loaf  sugar;  cut  then- 
ries  in  half,  and  take  out  the  seeds;  wet  the 
siiipir  wiih  a  little  water,  and  put  idl  together 
into  a  preserving  pan;  carefully  stir  and 
scum  them,  and  boil  them  till  the  sirup  is 
clear  and  the  fruit  soft. 


GOOSEBERRIES.    The  tops 

and  tails  being  removed  from  the  gooseber- 
ries, allow  an  e<|iial  quantity  of  finely-pounded 
loaf  sugar,  and  put  a  layer  of  each  alternate- 
ly into  a  large  deep  jar ;   pour  into  it  as  much 
dripped  currant  juice,  either  red  or  white,  as 
will  dissolve  the  sugar,  adding  its  weight  in 
sugar;  the  following  day  put  all  into  a  pre- 
serving pan  and  boil  it. 

GREEN    PEAS.    Put    into  a 


PUDDINGS 


155 


PUDDINGS 


saucepan  of  boiling  water  fresh  gathered 
and  fresh-shelled  peas,  but  not  very  \oung; 
as  soon  as  they  Ixjil  up,  |x>»r  off  the  water, 
and  put  them  upon  a  large  dry  cloth  folded, 
and  then  ujxni  atiotlier,  that  they  may  be 
perfectly  dry  w  itliout  being  bruised ;  let 
them  lie  some  time,  before  the  fire,  and  then 
put  them  into  small  paper  bags,  each  c"ii- 
taining  about  a  pint,  and  hang  them  up  in 
the  kitchen.  Before  if  ing,  soak  them  for 
two  or  three  hours  in  water,  and  then  boil 
them  as  directed  for  green  peas,  adding  a 
little  bit  of  butter,  when  they  are  put  on  to 
boil. 

I'RKSERVKn    JARGONELLE    PEARS. 

Gather  pears  with  stalk*  lx>fore  they  are 
quite  ri|>e;  allow  equal  quantities  of  fine 

.r  and  of  fruit.  Pare  the  pear?  as 
thinly  ;is  |xi?.»ible,  keeping  on  the  stalks; 
can-fully  cut  out  the  black  top;  as  they  are 
peeled  put  them  into  cold  water.  1'ut  cab- 
BMgl  leaves  into  the  bottom  of  a  prexr\  in^- 
pan ;  lay  in  the  pears,  cover  them  with 
Cold  water  and  one  or  two  cabbage  leaves 
upon  (he  top;  Ixiil  them  thirty  minutes,  and 
lay  them  upon  a  dish.  To  six  pounds  of 

1 1  low  a  pound  of  water,  boil  and 
skim  it;  then  add  one  ounce  of  while  gin- 
ger, previously  soaked  in  hot  water,  and 
scraped  clean,  add  the  juice  and  thinly  par- 
ed rinds  of  two  lemon*.  Hod  the  sirup  ten 
minutes,  |xit  in  the  pears,  and  let  them  boil 
twenty  minutes;  take  them  out,  put  them 
into  a  Ixnvl  or  deep  dish,  Ixiil  the  sirup 
cL'ht  minutes,  and  when  cold  |»ur  it  o\i-r 
the  |»-ars;  coxi-r  them  with  pajx-r;  iu  four  \ 
days  JxMirotf  the  simp,  lx>il  it  eight  in 
and  |xmr  it  mer  the  jx-.irs  when  cold.  In 
four  d.us  irjK-at  this  pi-ocrns,  and  do  it  a 
third  lime;  tlien  stick  a  clove  in  each  pear, 
when-  the  black  lop  wa-i  cut  out.  I'nt  them 
md  le:no!i-|x-el, 
and  |x>ur  on  the  simp  when  cold. 

KKI)   PKAKS.     Parlx.il  a  doz- 

en   of   |i  ..i  .  I    pears     in    water;    [x-el   them. 
ChriU   the    .-nine    weight    of  fine  I 
that  then  :i  of  Port 

wine,  the  juii  ••  and  rind  of  one  |e-, 
a  little  i  ..iln      .1.  a  lew  c|,,\ 
of  ciiiiia;non;    Ixiil  tile  |>ears  in  this  till  they 
iear  ami  red;    take   them  out,  ln.il 
up   tile   simp,   strain,   and    put    it   o\er    the 

pri)DlN.;s.    PIKS.   AM)   T\  ;  i  - 
Great    n  i  pn-par- 

tial  used  for  lx>ilcd  or  baked 
pnodin 

i  1>T    well    If 

to   be    done,   a 
whi-k   i-  used  .     if  t--w,  a  lii. 
The  tin 


are  carefully  ( .-leaned,  by  putting  them  into 
a  cullender,  and  pouring  warm  water  over 
them;  if  very  dirty,  this  is  to  be  repeated 
two  or  three  times,  and  after  being  dried  in 
a  dish  IK -to  re  the  fire,  tliey  are  nibbed  in  a 
clean  coarse  cloth,  all  tin-  stalks  and  stones 
picked  (»ut,  and  then  a  little  flour  dredged 
over  them.  The  raisins  are  stoned  with  a 
small  sharp-jxiinted  knife  ;  it  is  cleansed  in 
a  basin  of  water,  which  also  receives  the 
seed.  Tlie  pudding  cloth  must  be  kept  es- 
pecially clean,  or  it  will  impart  an  unpleas- 
io  anything  that  is  boiled  in  it; 
and  when  taken  off"  a  pudding,  it  ouiiht  im- 
mediately to  1x3  laid  in  cold  water,  and  af- 
terwaids  well  washed  with  soda  or  pearl- 
ashes  in  hot  water.  Just  before  lieing  used 
for  a  rice,  bread,  or  batter  pudding,  it 
should  be  dipped  into  hot  water,  wrung, 
shaken,  and  well  dredged  with  flour ;  and 
for  a  plum,  suet  pudding,  or  any  sort  of 
fruit  pudding  in  paste,  it  must  be  buttered 
Ix-tore  being  floured. 

The  water  should  Ixiil  quick  when  the 
pudding  is  [Hit  in;  and  it  should  lx-  moved 
about  lor  a  minute,  lor  fear  the  ingredients 
should  not  mix. 

When  the  |Mi<ldiiu  i*  done,  a  pan  of  cold 
water  should  lie  ready,  and  the  podding 
dip|x-d  into  it  as  soon  as  it  comes  out  of  the 
pot,  which  will  prevent  its  adhering  to  the 
cloth. 

A  bread  pudding  should  be  tied  loose; 
if  batter,  it  must  be  tied  tight  over,  and  a 
liatter  pudding  should  be  strained  through  a 
•  •vc  when  all  is  mixed.  In  others, 
the  eggs  only.  If  you  Ixiil  the  pudding  in 
a  basin  or  |,'in,  take  care  that  it  is  always 
well  buttered. 

When  you  make  your  puddings  without 
e^'s,  they  nrist  have  ar-  little  milk  as  will 
mix,  and  must  Ixiil  lor  three  or  four  hour?. 
A  few  s|XHinlnls  of  small  Ix-er,  or  one  of 
vea-l,  ii  the  ln->t  Mil.'stitute  for  e^s.  Your 
puddings  will  always  be  much  lighter  it'\ou 
Ix-at  the  yolks'  and  whites  of  the  i 
and  separately.  You  may,  if  you  please, 
instead  of  ei^s,  cither  in  pudding* 
or  pancake?.  Two  lame  s|xi<nifuU  w  ill  siip- 
|  ly  th:-  |:!ace  of  one  c^ ;  the  snow  may  lie 
taken  up  from  an\  clean  >|x>t  lx-|ore  it  R 
wanted,  and  will  not  lose  its  virtue,  though 
.  i  he  lx-tier. 

All  puddings  in  pa.-te  are  tied  tightly,  but 

oilier  puddings  linwly,  in  the  cloth.     When 

a  pudding  is  to  IK-  Iniili  d  in  a  sha|<-.  a  pi»-ce 

of  buttered  while  [W|>er  is  put  upon  tile  top 

of  it,  In-fore  (he  liomvd    cloth    is    tied  on. 

.  dish,  or  shape,  in  which  the  pod- 

i  Iw  either  boiled  or  iKiked,  must 

.    buttered  Ix-tore  it    is  filled.      It   is 

an   improvement   to  jNiildiugs    in  general  to 

let  tlM-ni  stand  >ome  time  alt.  i  U-iui;  prepared 

Ixjiling  or  baking.     When  a  pud- 


PUDDINGS 


156 


PUDDINGS 


ding  is  to  be  boiled,  it  must  be  put  on  in  a 
covered  pot,  in  plenty  of  boiling  water,  and 
never  for  a  moment  be  allowed  to  be  off  the 
boil  until  ready  to  be  served.  As  the  water 
wastes,  more,  and  always  boiling,  must  be 
added.  A  plum  pudding  is  the  better  for 
bein;;  mixed  the  day  before  it  is  to  1«  boiled. 
It  may  be  useful  to  observe  that  this  pudding 
will  keep  for  months  after  it  is  dressed,  if 
the  cloth  be  allowed  to  remain  upon  it,  and 
if,  when  cold,  it  be  covered  with  a  sheet  of 
foolscap  paper,  and  then  hung  up  in  a  cool 
place.  When  about  to  be  used,  it  must  l>e 
put  into  a  clean  cloth,  and  again  boiled  for 
an  hour;  or  it  may  be  cut  into  pliers,  and 
broiled  as  wanted.  If  in  breaking  eggs  a 
bad  one  should  accidentally  drop  into  the 
basin  amongst  the  rest,  the  whole  will  be 
spoiled ;  and  therefore  they  should  be  broken 
one  by  one  into  a  tea-cup.  When  the 
whites  only  of  eggs  are  required  for  a  jelly, 
or  other  things,  the  yolks,  if  not  broken,  will 
keep  good  for  three  days,  if  the  basin  they 
are  in  be  covered. 

A  slab  of  marble,  stone,  or  slate,  is  pref- 
erable to  wood  for  rolling  out  paste  on. 
The  rolling-pin,  cutters,  and  every  other  im- 
plement used  in  these  processes,  must  he 
kept  particularly  clean;  thev  should  alvvavs 
l>e  washed  immediately  alter  Iteing  used, 
and  then  well  dried.  Before  using  butter 
for  (Kiste,  it  is  laid  for  some  time  into  cold 
water,  which  is  changed  once  or  twiec. 
When  salt  butter  is  used,  it  is  well  worked 
in  two  or  three  waters.  If  it  should  not  be 
convenient  to  make  the  paste  immediately 
liefore  it.  is  baked,  it  will  not  suffer  from 
standing,  if  made  eaily  in  the  morning,  and 
the  air  excluded  from  it,  by  putting  first  a 
tin  cover  over  the  pie  or  tartlets,  and 
above  that  a  folded  table-cloth.  To  ascer- 
tain if  the  oven  be  of  a  proper  heat,  a  little 
bit  of  paste  may  be  baked  in  it,  before  any 
tiling  else  be  put  in.  Puff  paste  requires 
rather  a  brisk  oven.  If  too  hot  it  binds  the 
surface  and  prevents  the  steam  from  rising, 
and  if  too  slow  it  becomes  sodden  and  flat. 
Raised  crusts  require  a  quick  oven;  puffs 
and  tartlets,  which  are  filled  with  preserved 
fruit,  are  sufficiently  done  when  the  paste  is 
liaked.  When  large  pies  have  been  in  the 
oven  for  a  few  minutes,  a  paper  is  put  over 
them  to  prevent  their  being  burned. 

PUDDING.  Sweeten  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  cream,  and  boil  it  with  the  peel  of  a  small 
lemon;  cut  the  crumb  of  a  twopenny  roll, 
and  put  it  into  the  cream,  and  boil  it  for 
eight  minutes,  stirring  constantly ;  when 
thick  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  but- 
ter beaten  to  a  cream,  a  tea-spoonful  of  gra- 
ted nutmeg,  and  four  well-lieaten  eggs;  beat 
it  all  well  together  for  some  minutes.  It 
may  be  baked  or  boiled. 


APRICOT.      Take  six-and- 

tliirty  nice  fine  red  apricots,  cut  them  in 
halves,  and  take  out  the  stones,  and  roll 
them  in  a  pan  with  four  'nine's  of  powdered 
sugar.  Prepare  your  crust,  line  votu-  mould 
with  it,  put  in  your  apricots,  and  finish  the 
same  as  in  the  receipt  for  Apple  Pudding  a 
la  Francaise. 


ALMOND,     BAKED.    Steep 

four  ounces  of  crumbs  of  bread  sliced 
in  a  pint  and  half  of  cream,  or  grate  the 
bread;  then  beat  half  a  pound  of  blanched 
almonds  very  fine,  till  they  Ijecome  a  paste, 
with  two  tea-sp<xmfnls  of  orange-flower  wa- 
ter; beat  up  the  yolks  of  eight  eirgs,  and  the 
whites  of  four;  mix  all  well  together;  put  in 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  stir 
in  three  or  four  ounces  of  melted  butter; 
put  it  over  the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  until 
it  is  thick ;  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  at  the  bottom 
of  a  dish,  and"  pour  in  the  ingredients.  To 
bake  half  an  hour. 


ALMOND.      Blanch  and  beat 

a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  with  a  litite 
rose-water,  mix  a  |xjuml  of  bread  grated, 
a  nutmeg,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  the 
yolks  of  six  eggs,  boil  a  pint  of  eream,  co- 
lored with  a  very  litl!<-  saffron,  add  it  to  tile 
eggs  and  a  little  flour,  knead  it  well,  and 
then  put  in  the  almonds,  Ix-alini:  it  up  till 
all  is  mixed  together.  Boil  it  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  buttered  cloth. 


AMBER.     Put    a    pound    of 

butter  into  a  saucepan,  with  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar ;  when  melted 
and  well  mixed  together,  add  the  yolks  of 
fifteen  eggs  beaten,  ami  as  much  candied  or- 
ange beaten  to  a  paste  as  will  give  color  and 
flavor  to  it.  Line  the  dish  with  paste  for 
turning  out,  and  when  lilled  \\ith  the  above, 
lay  a  crust  over,  as  u>u  would  a  pie,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven.  It  may  be  eaten  hot 
or  cold. 


APPLE.      (1)       Weigh    one 

pound  and  three-quarters  of  apples,  pan  . 
core,  and  cut  them  into  thin  bits;  weigh 
also  ten  ounces  of  brown  sugar;  make  a 
suet  paste,  rolled  thinner  towards  the  edges 
than  in  the  middle,  and  Mjtiieiently  large  to 
lay  into  a  two-quart  Ijasin,  previously  but- 
tered; put  in  die  apple  and  sugar  alternate- 
ly, wet  die  edges  of  the  pai-te,  and  lold  it 
closely  over;  dredge  it  with  llour,  and  tie  a 
pudding  cloth  over  the  top  of  a  basin;  boil 
it  for  three  hours.  A  li^hl  paste  may  be 
made  with  flour,  half  ii.-  quantity  in  bulk  of 
grated  bread  and  suei.  mixing  it  with  milk 
or  water,  and,  instead  of  apples,  currants, 
damsons,  or  any  otli.-i  Ii  nil,  may  be  enclos- 
ed in  it. 


PUDDINGS 


157 


PUDDINGS 


APPLE.    (2)     Peel  and  core 

•ix  very  large  apples,  stew  tliem  in  six  ta- 
We-spoonfuls    nl"  water,   with  the  riml  of  it 
lemon;   wlien  sift,  Ix-at  them  to  ;i  pulp,  add 
six  ounces  <•('  melted  iVoli  butter,  the  same 
Of  good  brown  j-u^.ir,  six  well-beaten  eggs, 
half  :i    \\HK-jli--    of  l>ntinly,  anil    a   tea- 
gpoonful  of  lemon-juice;   line  a  dish  with  a 
puff  paste,  and  H  lieu  baked,  stick  all  over 
the  top   thin  chips  of  candied   citron   and 
lemon-peel. 

APPLE.  (3)  Make  a  batter  with 

two  egg?,  a  pint  of  milk,  and  three  or  four 
spoonful.*  of  (lour;  pour  it  into  a  deep  dish, 
and  having  |>ared  six  or  eight  small  apples, 
place  them  whole  in  die  baiter  and  bake  it. 

APPLE,  BOILED.     Gimp  four 

ounces  of  beef  suet  very  fine,  or  two  ounces 
of  butter,  lard,  or  dripping  ;  but  the  suet 
makes  the  best  and  lightest  crust  ;    put  it 
on  the  paste-board,  with  ei^ht   ounces   of 
flour,  and  a  salt-s|>o<>uful  of  Kilt,  mix  it  well 
together  with  your  hands,  and  then  put  it  all 
of  a  heap,  ami  make  a  hole  in  the  middle; 
break  one  egg   in  it,  stir  it  well   together 
with  your  finger,  and  by  degrees  infuse  as 
much  water  as  will  make  it  of  a  still  paste: 
roll  it  out  two  or  three  time*,  with  the  roll- 
ing-pin, and  tlien  roll  it  large  enough  to  re- 
ceive thirteen  ounces  of  apples.    It  will  look 
neater  if  boiled    in  a  basin,  well  buttered, 
than   wlx'n  Ixiiled  in  a  pudding-cloth,  well 
floured;  boil  it  an  hour  and  three-quarters: 
but  tile  surest  way  is  to  stew  tl)e  apples  first 
in  a  .-tew  pan,  with  a  wine-glassful  of  water, 
and  then  one  hour  «  ill  Uiil  it.     Some  people 
like  it  flavored  with  cloves  and  lemon-peel, 
and    sweeten    il  with  two  ounces  of  sugar. 
( ii  xiscl  terries,  currants,  raspberries,  and  cher- 
ries, damsons,  anil  various  plums  and  fruits, 
:ire  made  into  pudding-  with  the  same  crust 
directed  fur  apple  puddings. 

APPLE,    A    LA    FRAN- 

C  USK.  'J'o  make  the  entremets  proper- 
Iv,  it  is  necessary  to  have  a  mould  in  the 
form  of  a  dome  lour  inches  deep  and  six  in 
diameter;  this  mould  and  its  lid  should  tx> 
pierced  all  over,  the  same  80  a  skimmer. 
Tliere  should  be  a  rim  round  the  lid  of  the 
dome  tlmt  it  may  cover  it  so  closely  that  all 
air  may  lie  excluded. 

•id  thirty  small  red  apples 
and  cut  them  into  quarters;  toss  them  in  a 
steupan  with  four  ounces  of  fine  sugar 
(over  which  must  be  grated  the  rind  of  an 
orange),  and  four  ounce*  of  butter  luke- 
warm; then  place  the  stewpan  oxer  the 
rtove,  with  lire  on  die  cover.  \\- 

re   done,  pour  them    into   a  dish. 
WUhtthej  are   cooling  inix  up  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  stiff  paste ;  then  roll  out 
14 


half  of  it  to  the  thickness  of  die  eighth  of  an 
inch.  With  Uiis  crust  line  die  inside  of 
your  mould,  which  must  be  previously  well 
battered.  Be  careful  that  tlie  paste  lays 
i|iiite  flat,  leaving  a  piece  all  round  d»e  edge 
of  tlie  mould,  then  put  in  die  best  quarters 
of  die  apples,  and  fill  up  die  mould  with  the 
rest  of  the  apples  and  their  liquor,  then  roll 
out  die  rest  of  tlie  paste  very  thin,  into  two 
parts,  cut  in  rounds.  Slightly  moisten  the 
paste  which  you  have  left  round  tlie  edge  of 
die  mould,  and  place  upon  it  one  of  the 
rounds  of  paste,  pinching  die  edges  carefully 
together,  then  slighdy  moisten,  and  place 
upon  it  your  other  round  piece  of  paste, 
pinching  the  edge  of  this  widi  the  others  to 
make  it  quite  close,  then  cover  diem  widi 
die  lid  of  die  mould  well  buttered. 

Now,  turn  your  mould  over  into  die  mid- 
dle of  a  napkin,  and  tie  up  the  corners  of  it 
close  over  die  top  of  the  dome,  and  put  it 
into  a  saucepan  (nine  inches  deep  and  nine 
wide)  full  of  boiling  water;  and  let  il  be 
kept  constantly  Ixiiling  for  an  hour  and  a 
half;  when  it  has  lx>iled  for  this  time,  take 
it  out  of  the  sauce[>an,  untie  the  napkin, 
take  out  die  mould,  remove  die  lid,  place 
the  mould  on  a  dish,  and  thru  carefully  take 
it  off  from  die  pudding;  strew  fine  sugar  aH 
over  your  pudding,  and  serve  it  quite  hot. 

ARROW-ROOT.  From  a  quart 

of  new  milk  take  a  small  tea-cupful,  and 
mix  it  with  two  large  spoonfuls  of  arrow- 
root. Boil  the  remainder  of  die  milk,  and 
stir  it  amongst  die  arrow-root;  add,  when 
nearly  cold,  four  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs, 
w ith  two  ounces  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
and  the  same  of  fresh  butter  broken  into' 
(•mall  bits;  season  widi  grated  nutmeg.  Mix 
it  well  togedier,  and  bake  it  in  a  buttered 
dish  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

AUi\T   MARY'S.     Of  bloom 

raisins  stoned,  currants  nicely  cleaned,  suet 
finely  minced,  bread  grated,  apples  minced, 
and  brown  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
each ;  four  well-beaten  eggs,  a  tea-spoonful 
of  pounded  ginger,  half  a  one  of  salt,  half  a 
nutmeg  grated,  and  one  glass  of  brandy; 
mix  all  the  ingredients  well,  and  boil  it  in  a 
doth  for  two  hours.  Serve  widi  a  sauce  of 
melted  butter,  a  glass  of  wine,  and  some 
sugar. 

BARLEY.     Take  a  pound  of 

pearl  barley  well  washed,  three  quarts  of 
new  milk,  one  quart  of  cream,  and  half  a 
pound  of  double  refined  sugar,  a  grated  nut- 
meg, and  some  salt ;  mix  diem  well  togedier, 
then  put  them  into  a  deep  pan,  and  bake  it ; 
then  take  it  out  of  the  oven,  and  nut  into  it 
six  eggs  well  beaten,  six  ounces  of  beef  mar- 
row, and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated 


'    PUDDINGS     ; 


158 


PUDDINGS 


bread ;  mix  all  well  together,  then  put  it  in- 
to another  pan,  bake  it  again,  and  it  will  be 
excellent. 

BATTER,  BAKED  OR  BOIL- 
ED. Break  three  eggs  in  a  basin  with 
as  much  salt  as  will  lie  on  a  sixpence; 
l»eat  thorn  well  together,  and  then  add  four 
ounces  of  flour;  beat  it  into  a  smooth  bat- 
ter, and  by  degrees  add  half  a  pint  of  milk: 
have  your  saucepan  ready  boiling,  and  but- 
ter an  earthen  mould  well,  put  the  pudding 
in,  and  tie  it  tight  over  with  a  pudding- 
cloth,  and  boil  it  one  hour  and  a  quarter. 
Or,  put  it  in  a  dish  that  you  have  well  but- 
tered and  bake  it  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Currants  washed  and  nicked  clean,  or  rai- 
sins stoned,  are  good  in  this  pudding,  and 
it  is  then  called  a  black  cap:  or,  add  loaf 
sugar,  and  a  little  nutmeg  and  ginger  with- 
out the  fruit,  —  it  is  very  good  dial  way; 
serve  it  with  wine  satire. 

BATTER.     Take   six   ounces 

of  fine  flour,  a  little  salt,  and  three  eggs; 
beat  it-  well  with  a  little  milk,  added 
by  degrees  till  the  batter  become  smooth; 
make  it  the  thickness  of  cream;  put  into 
a  buttered  pie-dish,  and  bake  three-quarters 
of  an  hour :  or  into  a  buttered  and  floured 
basin,  tied  over  tight  with  a  cloth:  boil  one 
and  a  half  hour,  or  two  hours. 


take  it  up,  remove  the  cloth,  turn  it  down- 
wards in  a  deep  dish,  and  when  wanted  take 
away  the  basin  or  mould. 


BEEF.STEAK,BAKED. 

Make  a  batter  of  milk,  two  eggs,  and  flour, 
or,  which  is  much  lietter,  potatoes  boiled  and 
mashed  through  a  cullender ;  lav  a  little  of 
it  at  the  bottom  of  die  dish ;  then  put  in  the 
steaks,  prepared  as  above,  and  very  well 
seasoned;  pour  the  remainder  of  the  batter 
over  diem,  and  bake  it. 


BISCUIT.       Pour    a    pint 

of  boiling  milk  over  three  Naples  biscuits 
grated;  cover  it  close;  when  cold  add  die 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  two  whiles,  nutmeg,  a 
little  brandy,  half  a  spoonful  of  Hour,  and 
some  sugar.  Boil  it  an  hour  in  a  basin. 


BATTER,   WITHOUT 

EGGS.     Mix  six  spoonfuls  of  flour  with  a 
small  portion  of  a  quart  of  milk ;   and  when 
smooth  add  the  remainder  of  die  milk,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  grated 
ginger,  and  two  of  tincture  of  saffron ;  stir 
all  together  well,  and  boil  it  an  hour.     Fruit 
may  be  added  or  not. 

BEEF-STEAK.      Get  mmp- 

steaks,  not  too  thick,  beat  diem  with  a  chop- 
per, cut  them  into  pieces  about  half  the  size 
of  your  hand,  and  trim  off  all  the  skin,  sin- 
ews, &c. ;   have  ready  an  onion  |x?eled  and 
chopped  fine,  likewise  some  potatoes  peeled 
and   cut   into  slices  a  quarter   of  an   inch 
diick;  rub  die  inside  of  a  basin  or  an  oval 
plain  mould  with  butter,  sheet  it  with  paste 
as  directed  for  boiled  puddings,  season  die 
steaks  widi  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg;  put  in  a  layer  of  steak,  then  anodier 
of  potatoes,  atid  so  on  till  it  is  full,  occasion- 
ally throwing  in  part  of  the  chopped  onion ; 
add  to  it  half  a  gill  of  mushroom  ketchup,  a 
table-spoonful  of  lemon -pickle,   and  half  a 
gill  of  water  or  veal  broth ;   roll  out  a  top, 
and  close  it  well  to  prevent  the  water  getting 
in;  rinse  a  clean  cloth  in  hut  water,  sprinkle 
a  little  flour  over  it,  and  tie  up  the  pudding; 
have  ready  a   large   pot   of  water  boiling, 
put  it  in,  and  boil  it  two  hours  and  a  half; 


BOSTON  APPLE.     Peel  one 

dozen  and  a  half  of  good  apples ;  take  out 
die  cores,  cut  them  small,  put  into  a  stewpan 
that  will  just  hold  diem,  with  a  little  water, 
a  little  cinnamon,  two  cloves,  and  the  peel 
of  a  lemon ;  stew  over  a  slow  fire  till  quite 
soft,  dien  sweeten  widi  moist  sugar,  and 
pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve;  add  to  it  die 
|  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  one  white,  a  quarter 
I  of  a  pound  of  good  butter,  half  a  nutmeg, 
die  peel  of  a  lemon  grated,  and  die  juice  of 
one  lemon:  beat  all  well  together;  line  die 
inside  of  a  pie-dish  with  gnod  puff  paste; 
put  in  the  pudding,  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

BRANDY.     Line  a  mould  widi 

jar-raisins    .stoned,   or  dried  cherries,  dien 
hy  thin  slices  of  French  roll ;   next  put  a  lay- 
er of  ratafias  or  macaroons,  then  the  fruit, 
rolls,  and   cakes,  in   succession,   until   die 
mould  be    full,    pouring    in    at    times,   two 
glasses  of  brandy.     Beat  foureggs,  jroici  and 
whites  separately,  put  to  them  a  pint  of  milk 
or  cream,  lightly  sweetened,  half  a  nutmeg, 
and  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon  grated.     Pour 
it  into  die  mould,  and  when  the  solid  has 
imbibed  it  all,  flour  a  cloth,  tie  it  tight  over, 
and  Ixiil  an  hour;   keep  the  mould  the  right 
side  upwards. 

BREAD    AND    BUTTER. 

Cut  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  without 
the  crust,  lay  some  in  the  bottom  of  a  dish, 
then  put  a  layer  of  well-cleaned  currants,  or 
any  preserved  fruit;  dien  more  bread  and 
butter,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is  nearly  filled; 
mix  with  a  quart  of  milk  four  weli-l)eaten 
eggs,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  orange-flower 
or  rose  water;  sweeten  it  well  widi  brown 
sugar,  and  pour  it  over  die  bread  and  butter, 
and  let  it  soak  for  two  or  three  hours  before 
Iteing  baked.  It  will  take  nearly  an  hour. 
Serve  with  a  sauce,  in  a  sauce-tureen,  made 
widi  a  tea-cupful  of  currant  wine,  a  table- 


PUDDINGS 


159 


PUDDINGS 


spoonful  of  brown  sugar,  three  of  water,  and 
a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  stirred  till 
boiling  hot. 

BREAD.  (1)  Cut  two  or  three 

slices  of  bread  rather  thin,  and  without  the 
crust,   put  them  in  a  dish,  and   pour  over 
them  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk ;   let  it  stand 
till  cold,  and  then  mash  the  bread;   lay  into 
the  bottom  of  a  pudding  dish  a  layer  of  pre- 
served  gooseberries,  then   add  the  bread ; 
sweeten  well  a  pint  of  good  milk,  and  mix 
with  it  three  well-beaten  eggs  with  two  ta- 
ble-epoonftild  of  rose  water;  pour  it  over  the 
bread,   and  bake   it   for   an  hour.     Before 
serving,  nutmeg  may  be  grated  over  the  top. 

BREAD.  (2)  Make  a  pint  of 

bread-cruinbe ;   put  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
aa  much  milk  as  will  cover  them,  the  peel 
of  a  lemon,  a  little  nutmeg  grated,  and  a 
small  piece  of  cinnamon;    boil   about   ten 
minutes ;  sweeten  with  powdered  loaf  sugar ; 
take  out  the  cinnamon,  and  put  in  four  eggs ; 
beat  all  well  together,  and  bake  half  an  hour, 
or  boil  rather  more  than  an  hour. 


PLAIN  BREAD.     Make  five 

Ounces  of  bread-crumbs ;  put  them  in  a  ba- 
sin;  jxmr  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  boiling 
milk  over  them;  put  a  plate  over  the  top  to 
keep  in  die  steam ;  let  it  stand  twenty  min- 
utes, then  beat  it  up  quite  smooth  with  two 
Ounces  of  sugar  and  a  salt-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 
Break  I'. in   eggs  on  a  plate,  leaving  out  one 
white;   beat  them  well,  ami  add  tliem  to  the 
pudding.     Stir  it  all  well  together,  and  put  it 
in  a  mould  that  has  been  well  buttered  and 
floured ;   tie  a  cloth  over  it,  and  boil  it  one 
hour. 

BUTTER-MILK.     Turn   two 

qnaris  of  new  milk  with  one  of  butter-milk; 
drain  oil'  the  \\liey,  and  mix  with  the  curd 
the  grated  crumb  of  a  lwo|K-miy  roll,  the 
grated  peel  of  a  lemon,  nearly  a  whole  nut- 
meg grated,  half  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  six 
ounces  of  clarified  butter,  and  the  beaten 
yolk<  (if  nine,  and  the  whites  of  f 

i!  witll,  and  bake  it  with  or  without 
a  puff  paste,  tor  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
It  may  be  boiled. 

CAMP.     Put    into  a  saucepan 

half  a  pint  of  water,  a  quarter  nf  a  pomnof 
butter,  a  tal>le-s|HMinfnl  of 'mown  m 

the  peel  of  half  a  lemon  or  orange.  Let  it 
just  come  to  a  txiil.  take  it  off,  and  stir  in  u 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  lloiir ;  mix  it 
perfect U  smooth,  and  vvhcn  eold,  beat  in 
four  well-lx  ateii  eggs.  Half  till  twelve  yel- 
low tea -en  |  t,  and  bake  them  in  a  quick 
cuen.  Sine  them  witli  a  sauce  of  wine, 
sugar,  and  butter,  in  a  sauce-tureen. 


CARROT.     Pound  in  a  mortar 

the  red  part  of  two  large  boiled  carrots ;  add 
a  slice  of  grated  bread,  or  pounded  biscuit, 
two  ounces  of  melted  butter,  the  same  quan- 
tity of  sugar,  a  table-spoonful  of  marma- 
lade, or  a  bit  of  orange-peel  minced ;  half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  four  well- 
beaten  eggs;  mix  all  well  together;  bake  it 
in  a  dish  lined  with  puff  paste. 


CALF'S    FEET.      Pick    all 

the  meat  off  three  well-boiled  calf's  feet; 
chop  it  finely,  as  also  half  a  pound  of  fresh 
beef  suet ;  grate  the  cnimb  of  a  penny  loaf; 
cut  like  straws  an  ounce  of  orange-peel,  and 
the  same  of  citron ;  beat  well  six  eggs,  and 
grate  a  small  nutmeg ;  mix  all  diese  ingre- 
dients well  together,  with  a  glass  of  brandy 
or  rum,  and  boil  it  in  a  cloth  nearly  three 
hours.  Serve  with  a  sweet  sauce. 


CHERRY,  ANGLO   FRAN- 

CAIS.  Pick  two  pounds  of  fine  ripe 
cherries,  and  mix  them  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  picked  red  currants,  (having  ex- 
tracted the  seeds),  and  six  ounces  of  powder 
sugar.  Make  your  pudding  as  directed  in 
the  receipt  for  apple  pudding,  with  Musca- 
del  raisins.  You  may  make  use  of  rasp- 
berries instead  of  currants ;  or  mix  red  or 
white  currants  and  raspberries. 


CHEESE.      (1)     Grate  one 

pound  of  mild  cheese;  beat  well  four  eggs, 
oil  one  ounce  of  butter ;  mix  these  ingredi- 
ents together  with  one  gill  of  cream,  and 
two    table-spoonfuls    of    grated  •  and    sifted 
bread,  and  Lake    it  in  a  dish  or  tin  lined 
widi  puff  paste. 

CHEESE.  (2)  Grate  a  quarter 

of  a  pound  of  good  cheese,  |Mit  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  half  a  pint  of  ^md  milk,  and  nearly 
two  ounces  of  grated  bread,  and  one  beaten 

-tir  it  till  the  clu  e.-c  be  dissolved;  [Kit 
it  into  a  biitten-d  di-l>.  and  brown  it  in  a 
Dutch  oven.  .Serve  it  quite  hot. 

CITRON.     (1)  Mix  together  a 

pint  of  cream  and  the  \olUs  of  MX  i-^*;  add 
to  this  four  ounces  of  iji-.e  me  of 

citron,  shred  line,  two  s|XH>nfiilsnf  flour,  and 
a  little  nutmeg;  place  this  mixture  in  a  deep 
dish,  bake  it  in  a  hot  men,  and  turn  it  out. 

CITRON.  (2)  The  yolks  of  three 

eggs  beaten,  half  a  pint  i.i  -|>oon- 

lul  of  (lour,  two  ounces  of  citron  cut  thin; 
,  M;  ilu-  iii'o  large  cups 
buttered;  l;:ike  them  in  a  t  .leralily  quick 
oven  ;  when  done,  turn  them  out  of  the  cups, 
and  serve. 

COCOA-MT.    Quarter  pound 


PUDDINGS 


160 


PUDDINGS 


Cocoa-nut  grated :  same  of  powdered  sugar ; 
three  and  half  ounces  butter ;  whites  of  six 
eggs ;  half  tea-spoon  of  rose-water,  and  half 
glass  of  wine  and  brandy  mixed.  Take  the 
thin  brown  skin  from  off  the  meat,  and  wash 
the  pieces  in  cold  water,  and  wipe  dry. 
Grate  a  quarter  pound  fine.  Stir  the  butter 
and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  liquor 
and  rose-water  to  them.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  till  they  stand  alone,  and  then 
stir  them  into  the  butter  and  sugar ;  after- 
wards sprinkle  in  the  grated  nut,  and  stir 
hard  all  the  time.  Put  puff  paste  into  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  the  dish,  pour  in  the 
mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
about  half  an  hour.  Grate  loaf  sugar  over 
it,  when  cold. 


COTTAGE     POTATO     OR 

CAKE.  Peel,  boil,  and  mash,  a  couple  of 
pounds  of  potatoes:  beat  them  up  into  a 
.smooth  batter,  with  about  three-quarters  of 
a  pint  of  milk,  two  ounces  of  moist  sugar, 
and  two  or  three  beaten  eggs.  Bake  it 
about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Three 
ounces  of  currants  or  raisins  may  be  added. 
Leave  out  the  milk,  and  add  three  ounces  of 
butter, — it  will  make  a  very  nice  cake. 


COTTAGE.     Six  ounces  of 

currants,  half  a  pound  of  minced  suet,  and 
the   same  quantity  of  grated  bread,  half  a 
grated  nutmeg,   a   table-spoonful   of  white 
wine,  or  rose  water ;  mix  all  well  together, 
with  the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs,  to  a  stiff 
paste,  and  with   floured  hands  roll  it  into 
twelve  or  thirteen  small  puddings  in  the  form 
of  sausages ;  fry  them  gently  in  butter  till  of 
a  nice  brown ;  roll  them  well  in  die  frying- 
pan.     Serve  with  pounded  loaf  sugar  strewed 
over  diem,  and  widi  a  sweet  sauce.     They 
may  be  boiled. 

CRANBERRY.      Stir  into  a 

quart  of  batter,  made  stiffer  than  for  batter 
pudding,  about   a  pint  of  cranberries,  and 
boil  as  usual.     Or,  make  a  paste  as  for  apple 
pudding,  and  put  in  die  cranberries,  with 
molasses  sufficient  to  sweeten  dieir  acidity. 
Eaten  with  sweet  sauce. 


CURD,    BOILED.     Rub  the 

curd  of  two  gallons  of  milk,  well  drained, 
through  a  sieve ;  then  mix  with  it  six  eggs, 
a    little   cream,    two    spoonfuls   of  orange- 
flower  water,  half  a   nutmeg  grated,   three 
spoonfuls  of  flour,    and  thive  spoonfuls    of 
bread-crumbs,  half  a  pound  of  currants,  and 
half  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned.     Let  it  boil 
for  one  hour,  in  a  thick  cloth  well  floured. 

CURRANT.     A  pound  of  cur- 
rants, a  pound  of  suet,  five  eggs,  four  spoon- 


fuls of  flour,  half  a  nutmeg,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
ginger,  a  little  powder  sugar  and  a  little 
salt;  boil  diis  for  three  horn's. 


CURRANT  DRY.      Chop    a 

pound  of  suet,  and  mix  it  with  a  pound  of 
Hour,  half  a  pound  of  currants,  (well  wash- 
ed), a  tra-spooi  it'ui  of  |xninded  ginger,  half  a 
spoonful  of  tincture  of  saffron,  and  a  little 
salt ;   stir  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water, 
to  make  it  a  proper  consistence;   tie  it  in  a 
buttered  cloth,  and  boil  it  for  an  hour ;  serve 
it  with  melted  tatter,  white  wine,  and  sugar. 

CUSTARD.     Boil   a   pint  of 

milk,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  good  cream ; 
thicken  with  flour  and  water  made  perfectly 
smooth,  till  it  is  stiff  enough  to  bear  an  egg 
on  it ;  break  in  the  yolks  of  five  eggs ;  sweet- 
en with   powdered   loaf  sugar;  grate  in  a 
little  nutmeg  and  the  peel  of  a  lemon:  add 
half  a  glass  of  good  brandy;  then  whip  the 
whites  of  the  five  eggs  till  quite  stiff,  and 
mix  gently  all  togedier:  line  a  pie-dish  with 
good  puff  paste,  and  bake   half  an   hour. 
N.  B. — Ground  rice,  potato  flour,  panada, 
and  all  puddings  made  from  powders,  are, 
or  may  be,  prepared  in  die  same  way. 


DAMSON.    Make    a    batter 

with  three  well-beaten  eggs,  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  of  flour  and  brown  sugar  four  table- 
spoonfiils  each;  stone  a  pint  of  damsons, 
and  mix  them  with  the  batter;  boil  it  in  a 
buttered  basin  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 


EGG.      Melt  a  quarter  of  a 

pound  of  tatter,  and  when  nearly  cold,  mix 
well  widi  it  die  following  ingredients: — ten 
well-beaten  yolks  and  two  whites  of  eggs, 
half  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  half  a  pound  of 
good  brown   sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  a  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  glass  of  bran- 
dy; bake  it  widi  or  without  a  lining  of  puff 
paste. 

FRUIT    SUET.      Of  finely 

minced  suet,  flour,  grated  bread,  and  clean- 
ed currants,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  each ;   a 
tea-spoonful  of  pounded  ginger,  one  of  salt, 
two  ounces  of  brown  sugar,  and  a  tea-cup- 
ful of  milk;   mix  all  the  ingredients  well  to- 
gether, and  boil  it  in  a  cloth  for  two  hours. 
Serve  with  a  sweet  sauce. 

FAMILY.     Mix  with  a  pound 

of  flour  half  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned  and 
chopped,  die  same  quantity  of  minced  suet, 
a  little  salt,  and  milk  or  water  sufficient  to 
make  it  into  a  stiff  batter;  tail  it  for  five 
hours.  Serve  with  milted  tatter  poured 
over  it.  Two  well-beaten  eggs  may  be 
added. 


PUDDINGS 


161 


PUDDINGS 


G9OSEBERRY,    BOILED. 

This  pudding  is  made  in  the  same  manner 
as  Apple  pudding. 

1M>I\\.    (1)  It  i?  a  good  plan 

to  make  this  pudding  the  night  before.     It 
requires  a  great  deal  of  boiling,   say  four 
or  five  hours.     Sifted  meal  and  warm  milk 
stirred  together  pretty  stiff;   salt   and  suffi- 
cient molasses  added.     Boil  in  a  stout  bag, 
or  tiu'litly    covered  pan;    let  not  the  water 
get  in,  and  be  careful  in  tyinu'  to  leave  room 
for  the  meal  to  swell.     Ix;t  the  milk  you  use 
be    warm,    not    scalding.      \ou    may    add 
chop|x,'d  suet,  which  is.  very  much  liked  by 
some,  and  likewise  ginger,  if  preferred.     If 
you  have  not  milk,  water  will  answer. 

INDIAN.    (2)  Boil  in  a  quart  of 

good  milk  a  tea-cupfiil  of  Indian  meal,  stir 
it  constantly  till  thick,  sweeten  it  with  trea- 
cle or  brown  Miuar,  and  stir  in  two  well- 
beaten  eirus,  and  an  ounce  of  butter;  bake 
it  in  a  Dutch  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Haifa 
grated  nutmeg  may  be  added,  and  it  may  be 
{8.  A  boiled  Indian  meal 
puddinir  is  made  in  the  same  way,  and  after 
Deng  mixed  wi;h  or  without  eggs  in  it,  it  is 
tied  in  a  buttered  and  floured  cloth,  and  boil- 
ed for  two  hours.  It  is  eaten  with  cold  or 
melted  butter. 


JELLY.    Beat  to  a  light  cream 

ten  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  then  add  by  de- 
grees six  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  half 
a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  pounded ;   stir  in  two 
or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  rose  water;   beat 
to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  mix 
them  in  lightly  ;  bake  it  five-and-twenty  min- 
utes in  a  dish  lined  with  puff  paste. 

JENETON.     Butter  a  mould, 

and  ornament  it  with  raisins  in  festoons,  or 
in  any  other  form;   line  it  with  sponge  bis- 
cuit, and  fill  it  up  with  a  mixture  of  ratafia 
and  sponge  biscuit,  then  pour  a  rich  custard 
over  the   whole,   and   let    it  stand   tor  two 
hours,  adding  more  custard  as  it  soaks  into 
the  biscuit.     The  mould  being  quite  full,  tie 
a  cloth  over  it,  and  boil  it  for  about  an  hour. 

LEMON.    (1)   Peel  four  lemons 

thin;   boil  them  till    they  are    tender;    rub 
them  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  preserve  the 
fine  pulp.     Take  a  pound  of  \aples  biscuits, 
a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  two  ounces  of 
fresh  I  Hitler,  and  pour  over  them  some  boil- 
in.:  milk  or  cream  in   whir-h  a  stick  of  cin- 
naiii'xi    In-    lieen    Ixiiled.      Whi-n   cold,  mix 
with  tin-in  lh«-  |Milp  of  the  Ic-in  ms,  and  eight 
eggs    well    Ix-ateu;     sweeten     an-..rding    to 

ami  it"  you  choose,  add  brandy.     Edge 
a  dish  with  yood  puff  paste,  put  in  the  mix- 
tine;   garnish  the  top  with  MI  in;:-  »f  paste, 
14* 


as  for  tartlets,  and  bake  it  ia  a  moderately 
heated  oven. 


LEMON.  (2)  Put  half  a  pound 

of  fresh  Imtter  with  half  a  pound  of  loaf  su- 
gar, into  a  saucepan,  and  keep  it  stirring 
over   the  fire    till  it  boils;  put  it   into  an 
earthen  pan,  and  grate  the  rind  of  a  large 
lemon  into  it,  and  let  it  stand  till  cold ;  beat 
eight  eggs,  and  squeeze  the  juice  of  the  lemon 
on   them;   mix  the  sugar  and  butter  with 
them ;   put  some  rich  puff  paste  at  the  bottom 
of  a  dish,  then  put  in  the  preparation,  and 
add  bits  of  candied  lemon-peel  when  you 
have  put  in  the  preparation.      Bake  with 
great  care. 

LEMON.     (3)   Boil  in  water, 

in  a  closely  covered   saucepan,  two   large 
lemons  till  quite  tender;  take  out  the  seeds, 
and  pound  the  lemons  to  a  paste ;  add   a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
the  same  of  fresh   butter  !  ream, 

and  the  yolks  of  three  well-l)eateii  e^'.s;  mix 
all  together,  and  kike  it   in  a  tin  lined  with 
puff  paste;  take  it  out,  strew  over  the  top 
grated  loaf  sugar,  and  serve  it  upon  a  napkin. 

MACARONI.  (1)  Simmer  half  a 

pound  of  macaroni  in  plenty  of  water,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  salt,  till  it  is  tender;  but 
take  care  not  to  have  it  too  soft ;  though  ten- 
der, it  should  be  firm,  and  the  form  entirely 
preserved,  and  no  part  beginning  to  melt  (this 
caution  will  serve  for  tlie  preparation  of  all 
macaroni).  Strain  the  water  from  it;  beat 
up  five  yolks  and  the  whites  of  two  eg!*s  ;  take 
half  a  pint  of  the  best  cream,  and  the  < 
of  a  iowl,  and  some  thin  slice-  of  ham. 
Mince  the  breast  of  the  fowl  with  the  ham; 
add  them  with  from  two  to  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  finely-grated  cheese,  and  sea- 
son with  pep|>er  and  salt.  Mix  all  these 
with  tlie  macaroni,  anil  put  into  a  pudding- 
mould  well  buttered,  and  then  let  it  steam  in 
a  stewpan  of  boiling  water  for  about  an 
hour,  and  serve  quite  hot,  with  rich  gravy 
(as  in  Omelet). 


MACARONI.  (2)  Take  an  ounce 

or  two  of  the  pipe  sort  of  macaroni,  and 
simmer  it  in  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a  bit  of 
lemon-peel  and  cinnamon,  till  tender;  put  it 
into  a  dish,  with  milk,  three  eggs,  but  only 
one  white,  some  sugar,  nutmeg,  a  spoonful 
of  almond-water,  and  half  a  glass  of  raisin 
wine;  lay  a  nice  paste  round  the  edge  of  the 
dish,  and  jxit  it  in  the  oven  to  bake.  If 
you  choose  you  may  put  in  a  layer  of  orange- 
marmaLtde",  or  raspberry-jam :  in  this  case 
you  must  not  |xit  in  the  almond-water  or 
ratafia. 


MARROW.      Put  into   a 


mug 


PUDDINGS 


162 


PUDDINGS 


the  crumb  of  a  pound  loaf,  and  pour  over  it 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  milk ;  cover  it 
closely  for  an  hour ;  cut  into  small  bits  half 
a  pound  of  marrow,  stone  and  cut  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  raisins,  take  the  same  quantity 
of  nicely-cleaned  currants,  beat  well  six  eggs, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  grated  lemon-peel,  and  the 
same  of  nutmeg/;  mix  all  thoroughly  with  the 
bread  and  milk,  sweeten  it  well  with  brown 
sugar,  and  bake  it,  with  or  without  a  bor- 
der of  puff  paste  round  the  dish,  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour.  It  may  be  baked  in  a 
Dutch  oven,  and  after  baking  it  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  put  a  tin  cover  over 
the  top,  and  place  the  dish  upon  a  gridiron, 
over  a  slow  fire,  and  let  it  remain  for  fifteen 
minutes. 


. MILLET.  Wash  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  £eed,  tisil  it  in  a  quart  of 
milk  with  grated  nutmeg  and  lemon-peel, 
and  stir  in,  when  a  little  cooled,  an  ounce  of 
fresh  butter;  sweeten  with  brown  sugar, 
and  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four,  and 
the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  a  glass  of  wine 
or  spirits.  Bake  it  in  a  buttered  dish. 

MY.  Beat  up  the  yolks  and 

whites  of  three  eggs ;  strain  them  through  a 
sieve  (to  keep  out  the  treddles),  and  gradu- 
ally add  to  them  about  a  quarter  pint  of  milk ; 
stir  these  well  together.  Rub  together  in  a 
mortar  two  ounces  of  moist  sugar  and  as 
much  grated  nutmeg  as  will  lie  on  a  shilling; 
stir  them  into  die  eggs  and  milk ;  then  put 
in  four  ounces  of  flour,  and  beat  it  into  a 
smooth  batter ;  by  degrees  stir  into  it  seven 
ounces  of  suet  (minced  as  fine  as  possible) 
and  three  ounces  of  bread  crumbs.  Mix  all 
thoroughly  together  at  least  half  an  hour  be- 
fore you  put  the  pudding  into  the  pot.  Put  it 
into  an  earthen  pudding  mould,  that  is  well 
buttered.  Tie  a  cloth  over  it  very  tight; 
put  it  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  three 
hours.  Half  a  pound  of  raisins  cut  in  half 
added  to  the  above,  will  make  a  most  admi- 
rable plum  pudding.  Grated  lemon-peel  is 
also  fine. 

Don't  let  the  water  cease  to  boil :  it  will 
spoil  the  pudding.  And  it  is  always  best 
that  puddings  be  mixed  an  hour  or  two  be- 
fore put  into  the  pot,  the  ingredients  get 
amalgamated,  and  the  whole  becomes  richer 
and  fuller  of  flavor. 

The  above  pudding  may  be  baked  in  an 
oven,  or  under  meat,  as  \orkshire  pudding, 
only  add  half  pint  more  milk.  Should  it  be 
above  an  inch  and  quarter  in  thickness,  it 
will  take  full  two  hours;  and  requires  care- 
ful watching;  for  if  die  top  gets  burned,  a 
bad  flavor  will  pervade  the  whole  pudding. 
Or,  butter  some  tin  patty-pans  or  saucers, 
fill  diem  with  pudding,  and  bake  alxuit  an 
hour  in  a  Dutch  oven. 


NASSAU.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan die  whole  yolks  of  eight,  and  the  whites 
of  four  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  pounded  loaf 
sugar,  and  one  pound  of  fresh  butter;  stir  it 
over  a  slow  fire  for  nearly  half  an  hour;  line 
a  dish  with  thin  puff  paste  and  lay  over  die 
bottom  a  diick  layer  of  orange  marmalade, 
and  then  put  in  the  pudding.  Bake  it  for 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

NEW  COLLEGE.  Haifa  pound 

of  fresh  beef  suet,  finely  minced,  the  same  of 
currants,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated 
bread,  and  of  pounded  sweet  biscuit,  half  a 
teal-spoonful  of  salt,  a  small  nutmeg  grated, 
an  ounce  of  candied  orange-peel  minced; 
mix  fill  together  with  two  or  three  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  fry  them  in  butter  till  of  a 
light  brown;  shake  the  pan,  and  turn  them 
frequently  till  done  enough.  Serve  widl 
pounded  loaf  sugar  strewed  thickly  over 
diem. 


• NEWMARKET.     Put  on  to 

boil  a  pint  of  good  milk,  with  half  a  lemon- 
peel,  a  little  cinnamon,  and  a  bay  leaf;  boil 
gently  for  five  or  ten  minutes;  sweeten  widl 
loaf  sugar ;  break  the  yolks  of  five,  and  die 
whites  of  three  eggs,  into  a  basin ;  beat  diem 
well,  and  add  the  milk:  beat  all  well  togeth- 
er, and  strain  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  or 
tamis :  have  some  bread  and  butter  cut  very 
thin;  lay  a  layer  of  it  in  a  pie-dish,  and  then 
a  layer  of  currants,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is 
nearly  full;  then  pour  the  custard  over  it, 
and  bake  half  an  hour. 

NEWCASTLE,  OR  CABI- 
NET. Butter  a  half  melon  mould,  or  quart 
basin,  and  stick  all  round  with  dried  cher- 
ries, or  fine  raisins,  and  fill  up  with  bread 
and  butter,  &c.  as  in  the  above ;  and  steam 
it  an  hour  and  a  half. 


NOTTINGHAM.       Peel  six 

good  apples;  take  out  the  core  with  the 
point  of  a  small  knife,  or  an  apple  corer, 
if  you  have  one ;  but  be  sure  to  leave  die 
apples  whole;  fill  up  where  you  took  the 
core  from  with  sugar;  place  them  in  a  pie- 
dish,  and  pour  over  them  a  nice  light  batter, 
prepared  as  for  batter  pudding,  and  bake 
an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

OATMEAL.      Sift  a  pound 

of  oatmeal,  chop  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  suet,  mince  some  onions,  and  mince  all 
together;   season  well  with  pcp|>er  and  salt; 
half  fill  the  skins,  and  boil  and  dress  diem 
as  directed  in  die  receipt  for  ox-blood  pud- 
dings.    Some  people  think  a  little  sugar  an 
improvement. 

.  ORANGE.(l)The  yolks  of  six 


PUDDINGS 


163 


PUDDINGS 


and  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  well  beaten; 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  orange  marmalade, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  pounded, 
the  game  of  melted  butter ;  three  table-spoon- 
fiils  of  grated  broad,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  cream;  mix  all  well  together,  and  liake 
them  in  a  dish  lined  with  puff  paste. 

ORANGE.     (2)    Cut    in   half 

time   !;tr_'r    Seville  oranges,   squeeze   and 
strain  the  juice;  boil  the  skin*   till  quite 
fiofl  in  a  good  deal  of  water,  pound  them  in 
a  mortar,  and  mix  them  with  nine  lx*aten 
yolk.-'    and    lour    whites    of  eggs,    nearly   a 
pound  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  the  juice  of 
the   or,in^'i«,    and  half  ;i  pound  of  molted 
butter,     liake  it  in  a  dish  lined  wi 

paste  for  half  an  hour. 

PEAS.      Put  a  quart   of  split 

pens  to  soak  for  two  hours  into  warm   wa- 
ter; boil  them  in  soft  water,  with  a  bit  of 
butter,  till  sufficiently  tender  to  praMtbrovA 
a  sieve;  pulp  tltein,  and  add  the  lx-aten  \olk 
of  one  ciji:.  a  little  |x-pper  and  salt,  ami  an 
Oi line  of  bnH< T.     Tie  it  into  a  buttered  and 
flotirari  cloth,  and  put  it  on  in  boiling  wa- 
ter; Imil  il  nearlv  an  hour. 

PLUM.    (1)   One  pound  of  fresh 

beef  suet,  finely  iiiineeil.  one  pound  of  raisins 
atoned.  lite  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  five  of 
brown    s—ar,    live  well-beaten    yolks,    and 
three  white-  of  eirgs,  a  tca-epoonful  of  salt; 
mix  all  the  ingredients  thoroughly,  and  boil 
it  in  a  rloih  tiir  lour  or  live  hours.     Serve 
with  Dialed  loaf  sugar,  and  melted  butter 
poured  over  it. 

PLUM.     (2)     One  pound  of  rai- 
sins, stoned  and  cut  in  li.ilf:  one  pound  of  cur- 
rant.-, picked,  washed,  and  dried:   one  |H.und 
beef  suet   i  ho|>|x-d   tine:   a   |xnind  of 
bread,  or  half  pound  cadi  of  Crated  bread 
and  lloin  :  ei^lu  o^*  :  quarter  |x>nod  of  su- 
gar: nalt-s|xio:i  of  suit:  lablr-s|x>ou  of ciuna- 

ind  mace  mixed:  two  grated  nutmeg: 
•  each  of  wine  and  brandy:  quarter 
jxrtiml  of  -nu'-'i',  ami  a  pint  of  milk.  Pie- 
pare  all  the  day  Ix-fore,  except  the  e^s,  that 
yon  ma\  mix  llie-u  the  next  iimniing:  ii  re- 
quires MX  hours  Ixiilini;.  J5<-at  llm  eggs 
lightly,  tlieu  put  to  them  half  (he  milk  and 
Ix-at  (ou'i'iher.  Stir  in  the  llour  and  bread; 
tJien  (lie  "ii^ar  by  dc^r, •.  -  ;  then  the  suet  and 

fruit;  tin-  fruit  to  Ix-  uell   11 ed  to  keep  it 

from  finking.  Stir  hard.  .Now  add  the 
spice  and  liquor,  and  th"  remainder  of  the 
milk.  It'  it  is  not  thick  enough,  add  more 
bread  or  llour;  but  if  there  !»•  too  much 
liread  or  llour  tlie  pnddiui;  will  !«•  hi-avy. 
Wet  the  doth  in  !>  lilinn  u.iti  i .  shake  it  out, 
and  sprinkle  it  with  llour.  l.i\  it  in  a  di-li 
ami  |xmr  into  it  the  pudding  Tie  it  tiuht, 


allowing  room  to  swell.  Boil  six  hours. 
When  you  turn  it  out,  stick  over  the  out- 
side  blanched  almonds  in  slips  or  slips  of  cit- 
ron, or  both.  If  you  add  grated  lemon-peel 
to  the  other  ingredients  it  will  much  improre 
the  pudding. 

PLUM.     (3)   One  pound  of  the 

best  raisins  stoned,  half  a  pound  of  currants 
well  cleaned,  one  pound  of  fresh  beef  suet 
finely  minced,  five  table-spoonfuls  of  grated 
bread,  three  of  flour,  two  of  brown  sugar, 
one  tea-spoonful  of  pounded  ginger,  one  of 
cinnamon,  and  one  of  salt,  six  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  three  wine-glasses  of  rum,  all  to 
lx>  mixed  thoroughly  together  the  day  before 
it  is  to  be  boiled.  Boil  it  in  a  cloth  or 
mould  for  four  or  five  hours.  Serve  with 
moli.-d  butter,  or  the  following  sauce: — 
Heat  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sweet 
cream,  and  mix  it  gradually  with  two  well- 
Ix-atcu  yolks  of  eggs;  add  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  white  wine,  brandy,  or  rum,  and  a 
table-s|xjonful  of  i-njjar;  season  with  grated 
nutmeu'.  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  quite 
hoi;  but  do  not  allow  it  to  Ixjil. 


PLUM.      (4)     Four  ounces  of 

apples  finely  minced,  the  same  quantity  of 
currants  cleaned  and  dried,  and  of  grated 
bread,  two  ounces   of  raisins,   stoned   and 
minced,  two  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  half  a 
nutmeg  grated,    a  little  candied  orange  or 
lemon  peel,  four  well-beaten  eggs,  one  ounce 
and  a  half  of  melted  butter  just  warm;   mix 
all  the  ingredients  well  together,  and  boil  it 
in  a  buttered  sha|>e    lor   four   hours.      If  the 
pudding  docs  not  fill  the  ?hape,  add  a  slice 
of  the  crumb  of  bread  at  the  bottom.    Serve 
with  a  sweet  sauce. 

PLUM,  WITHOUT  EGGS. 

Haifa  |xniud  of  grated  bread,  a  quarter  of  a 
(Niund  of  !incly-niiucod  snot,  a  table-spoonful 
of  Hour,  half  a  |x>und  of  currants  cleaned, 
rather  more  than  luo  ounces  of  brown  sugar, 
a  L;!:I--  of  brandy;  mix  all  lordlier  with  a 
.-iilticieiit  i|iianlil\  of  milk  to  make  it  into  a 
stiff  Icitter;  Ixiif  it  in  a  cloth  for  lixir  hours. 
It  mav  lie  baked,  adding  half  a  |mund  of 
stoned  raisins,  and  a  little  candied  orange 
and  lemoii-|Xfl. 

POTATO.      (1)     Boil   three 

lar^'e  mealy  |>ot:itoos  mash  them  very  smooth- 
ly, with  one  oonee  of  Uilter,  and  two  or 
three  table-s|>oontuls  of  thick  cream;  add 
three  uoll-lx-aioM  «.:,'s,  a  little  tail,  grated 
niitnie^.  and  a  table-s|HMinfiil  of  brown  sugar. 
Beat  all  well  to^dicr,  an. I  bake  it  in  a  Ult- 
torod  dish,  fir  I. all'  an  h»ur  in  an  o\en,  and 
liter*  of  an  hour  in  a  Dutch  oven 
A  few  ciinant>  in  i\  l.e  addid  to  tlie  pud- 
ding. 


PUDDINGS 


164 


PUDDINGS 


POTATO.     (2)    Boil   half  a 

pint  of  milk,  and  the  same  quantity  of  cream, 
with  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  the  peel  of 
a  lemon;   strain  it,   and  stir  in  gradually 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  potato  flour,  mix  it 
very  smoothly,  and  add  six  well-beaten  eggs ; 
sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar ;  stick  aU 
round  a  buttered  tin  mould,  dried  cherries, 
or  stoned  raisins,  put  in  the  pudding,  and  put 
a  bit  of  buttered  linen  over  the  top,  and  then 
die  cover  of  the  mouki ;  place  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan of  boiling  water,  boil  it  for  an  hour  and 
a  half;    take  care  die  water  does  not  boil 
over  die  mould.     Serve  with  a  sweet  sauce. 

POTATO-FLOUR.    Boil  some 

cinnamon,  lemon-peel,  and  sugar,  in  a  quart 
of  milk;  strain,  and  stir  it  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  potato  flour  previously   mixed 
smooth  with  a  little  cold  milk;  stir  it  till  it 
be  nearly  cold;   add  four  well-beaten  eggs, 
a  glass  of  sweet  wine,  or  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  spirits,  and  a  little  marmalade.     Bake  it 
in  a  Dutch  oven. 


PRUNE.     Stew  a  pound'  of 

prunes  with  half  a  pint  of  Port  wine,  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  water,  and  a  large  table-spoon- 
fyl  of  brown  sugar;    break  the  stones,  and 
put   the  kernels   with   the  fruit;    spread  it 
OVIT  a  sheet  of  put!  paste,  wet  the  edges,  and 
roll  it  into  .the  ibrmofa  bolster;   tie  it  firm- 
ly in  a  buttered  and  floured  cloth,  and  boil 
it  between  two  and   three   hours.       Serve 
with  sweet  wine  sauce. 

QUINCE.      Take  a  sufficient 

number  of  ripe  quinces  to  yield  a  pound  of 
pulp,  to  which  put  half  a  pound  of  powder- 
sugar,  cinnamon,  and  ginger,  of  each  two 
drachms,  pounded ;  mix  them  well.     Beat 
up  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  in  a  pint  of  cream, 
add  die  quince,  8cc.  stir  the  whole  together, 
flour  a  cloth,  tie  the  pudding  in,  and  boil  it. 

RATAFIA.     Pound,  with  a  lit- 
tle rose-water,  two  ounces  of  blanched  sweet 
almonds,  and  half  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
ratafia  cakes,  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of 
six,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  a  pint  of 
thick  cream,  two  glasses  of  white  wine,  and 
one  ounce  of  pounded  loaf  sugar.     Bake  it 
in  a  dish,  lined  with  [tuff  paste,  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

REGENT'S.     Rub  an  earthen- 
ware mould  with  butter,  and  cover  the  lx>t- 
tom  with  bloom    niis'ms    stoned;    cut    thin 
slices  of  the  crumb  of  bread,  butter,  and  lav- 
one  or  two  over  the  raisi'!.;;   upon  that  put 
a  layer  of  ratafia  cakes,  then  one  of  bread 
and  butter,  and  raisins;  do  this  till  the  mould 
is  nearly  full,  and  pour  over  it  (lie  following 
mixtures:  a  pint  of  cream  \\ell  sweetened 


with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  mixed  widi 
four  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  a  glass  of 
brandy,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  ruse-wa- 
ter ;  let  it  soak  one  or  two  hours ;  put  over 
die  top  a  piece  of  writing-paper  buttered, 
and  tie  over  it  a  clodi.  Boil  it  for  one  hour 
and  a  half,  and  serve  it  with  wine  sauce. 

— GROUND  RICE,  RICH.  (1) 

Stir  into  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ground 
rice,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  new  milk ;  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  and  keep  stirring  it  till  it 
boils;  then  add  diree  ounces  of  melted  but- 
ter, die  same  quantity  of  sugar,  half  a  grated 
nutmeg,  and  a  lea-spoonful  of  grated  lemon- 
peel;  mix  it  very  well,  and  when  cold,  add 
the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four,  and  the  white 
of  one  egg,  with  a  glass  of  ratafia,  and  half 
a  one  of  orange-flower  or  rose/ water;  bake 
it  in  a  dish  lined  widi  puff  paste  for  diree- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Before  serving,  strew 
over  die  top  grated  loaf  sugar. 

GROUND   RICE.     (2)     Mix 

till  quite  smooth,  with  a  small  tea-cupful  of 
ground  rice,  a  quart  of  good  milk,  stir  it 
over  die  fire  till  it  boils,  and  let  it  lx>il  for 
three  minutes ;  put  it  into  a  basin,  and  when 
nearly  cold,  add  die  well-beaten  yolks  of 
six,  and  die  whites  of  two  eggs,  with  a  tea- 
cupful  of  sweet  wine,  or  a  glass  of  spirits ; 
put  it  into  a  buttered  dish,  and  bake  it  for 
diree-quarters  of  an  hour,  or  for  one  hour  in 
a  Dutch  oven,  in  die  same  way  as  the  mar- 
row pudding  is  done.  Any  sort  of  preserve 
may  be  put  into  die  bottom  of  die  dish,  and 
a  sweet  sauce  may  be  served  widi  it. 

GROUND    RICE.     (3)    Boil 

in  a  pint  of  milk  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
flour  of  rice,  with  two   table-spoonfuls  of 
rose  water,  and  half  die  peel  of  a  lemon,  stir 
it  till  diick,  take  it  oft',  and  mix  in  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  grated  nut- 
meg, the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four,  and  the 
whites  of  three  «>gs;s;   sweeten  it  with  brown 
sugar,  pick  out  die  lemon-peel,  and  boil  it 
in  a  butlei-ed  basin,  which  must  be  complete- 
ly filled.     Serve  with  a  sauce  made  with  a 
glass  of  white  wine, 'boiled  in  melted  butter, 
and  sweetened  with  brown  sugar. 

RICE,    BAKED    OR   BOIL- 
ED.    Wash  in  cold   water  and  piek  very 
clean  six  ounces  of  rice,  put  it   in  a  quart 
stewpan  three  parts  filled  widi  cold  water, 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  five  minutes; 
pour  away  die   water,  and  put  in  one  quart 
of  milk,  a  roll  of  lemon-peel,  and  a  bit  of 
cinnamon;   let  it  boil  gently  till  die  rice  is 
quite  tender;   it  will  take  at  least  one  hour 
and  a  quarter;     l>e  carefiil  to  stir  it  every 
five  minutes';  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  stir  in 
an  ounce  and  a  hall"  of  fresh  butter,  and  beat 


PUDDINGS 


165 


PUDDINGS 


op  three  eggs  on  a  plate,  a  salt-epoonful  of 
•  I' sugar;  put  it  into  the 
pudding,  and  stir  it  till  it  is  quite  smooth; 
line  a  pie-dish  big  enough  to  hold  it  \\illi 
puff  paste,  notch  it  round  the  edge,  put  in 
your  padding,  and  l<ake  it  three-quarters  of  ' 
an  hour:  this  will  Ix?  a  nice  linn  pudding. 

If  you  like  it  to  eat  more  like  custard, 
add  oin-  nioiv  e,'g,  and  half  a  pint  more  ; 
milk;  it  will  l*j  letter  a  little  thinner  when  : 
boiled;  one  hour  will  boil  it.  if  you  like 
it  in  little  puddings,  butter  small  tea-cups, 
and  either  bake  or  boil  them,  half  an  hour 
will  do  either:  V'iu  may  vary  the  pudding 
by  putt  ing  nil  raudied  lemon  or  orange  peel, 
minced  \ery  line.  <,r  dried  cherries,  or  three 
ounces  of  currants,  or  raisins,  or  apples 
minced  fine.  If  the  puddings  are  baked  or 
boiled,  ser%e  them  with  white  wine  sauce,  or 
butter  and  sugar. 

RICE.     Boil   a   quarter   of  a 

pound  of  rice  in  water  till  it  is  soft,  then 
drain  it  in  a  .sieve,  and  pound  it  in  a  mor- 
tar; add  five  wcll-licaleii  \olks  of  eggs,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  the  same  pro- 
portion of  sugar,  a  small  nutmeg,  ami  half 
die  rind  of  a  lemon  grated;  work  them  well 
together  flu-  uunty  minutes,  and  add  a 
jMiind  of  cleaned  currants;  mix  it  all  well 
and  buil  it  in  a  pudding  clod)  for  an  hour 
and  a  half.  Serve,  with  wine  sauce. 


RICE,    WITHOUT    EGGS. 

Weii;h  six  ounces  of  rice,  .-ix  of  brown  su- 
gar, and  three  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter; 
break  the  Uitter  into  small  bits;  wa.-h  (lie 
rice  in  scveial  »  aters  :  put  all  into  a  pudding- 
di?h,  and  fill  it  up  \\i:h  I^MM!  milk  ;  let  it 
soak  some  lie. m-.  Hake  n  In  a  moderate 
oven  for  neailv  two  hours,  and  as  the  milk 
,11  up  the  dish  with  wore,  till  die 
rici-  U-  ,-wciJ  <\  and  s-oft;  then  let  it  brown. 


of  sago  in  several  waters  (warm) ;  then  pnt 
it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  good  milk, 
and  a  little  cinnamon;  let  it  boil  till  thick, 
stirring  frequently ;  pour  it  into  a  pan,  and 
lieat  up  with  it  half  a  jx>nnd  of  fresh  butter; 
add  to  it  the  \nlks  of  eight,  and  whites  of 
four  eggs,  beaten  separately,  half  a  glass  of 
white  v\  iue,  sugar  according  to  taste,  and  a 
little  flour ;  mix  all  together  well,  and  boil 
it.  Serve  with  sweet  sauce. 

SALT.      Take  a  pint  of  milk, 

four  dessert-spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  little  suet, 
shred  fine,  four  eggs,  salt,  and  pounded  gin- 
ger; mix  first  the  eggs  and  milk,  then  add 
the  flour,  &c. ;   put  more  flour,  if  necessary, 
to  give  it  consistence ;  tie  your  pudding  in 
a  buttered  cloth,  and  boil  it  two  hours. 

SCOTCH.      Eight  well-beaten 

yolks  and  diree  whites  of  eggs,  half  a  (xmnd 
of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  a  quartet'  of  a  jwund 
of  melted  butter,  die  grated  peel  and  juice 
of  one  lemon ;   mix  all  together,  ami  Uike  it 
in  a  dish  lined  with  puff  paste;    turn  it  out 
to  serve,  and  strew  over  die  top  grated  loaf 
sugar. 

SIPPET.     Cut  a  small  loaf  into 

extremely  diin  slices,  and  put  a  layer  of  them 
at  die  bottom  of  a  dish,  dien  a  layer  of  mar- 
row, or  beef  suet,  a  layer  of  currants,  and 
then  a   la\er  of  bread  "again,   kc.,  and  so 
continue  until  die  dish  is  filled;  mix  four 
eggs,  well  beaten,  widi  a  quart  of  cream,  a 
nutmeg,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and 
pour  over;  set  it  in  (he  oven,  it  will  take 
half  an  hour  baking. 


RICH.     Put    into  a   saucepan 

lour  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  fix  ounces  of 
pound  .  six  of  marmalade,  and 

siv  on  .  well  U-aten;    stir  all  one 

way  till  it  l>e  t!i 'loiighK  warmed;  it  mn.-t 
not  U-  alloui.l  I  i  l:.,il.  Hake  it  in  a  dish 

SAGO.  (1)  Boil  five  table-spoon-  ! 

ful.-  of  Kigo,  well  picked  and  washed,  in  a 
quart  .  half  I  he  |xt.'l  of  a  lemon,  ; 

ami  a  Mick  of  cinnamon;  \\Iieii  it  is  i at her 
thick,  add  half  a  pint  of  \\intc  wine,  and 
sweeten  it  with  good  brown  sugar;  beat  six 
yolks  and  three  whites,  of  eggs,  pick  out  die 
MHO-ped  ami  cinnamon,  mix  all  well  to- 
gedk-r,  and  liake  it  in  a  dish  witli  or  with- 
out 


SHROPSHIRE.     Of  fresh  beef 

suet  finely  minced,  of  brown  bread  grated, 
and  of  brown  sugar,  out;  |H)iind  each,  one 
nutmeg  grated,  a  tea-cupful  of  brandy,  eiirht 
well-lx'ateii  yolks,  and  lour  whites  of  eggs; 
mix  all  well"  together,  and  boi)  it  in  a  cloth 
or  mould  for  four  hours.  Serve  it  with  a 
sauce  of  melted  butter,  sugar,  and  twotable- 
s|xx>nfult;  of  brandy. 

SPRING  FRUIT.      Peel  and 

well  wash  four  do/.en  sticks  of  rhubarb:  put 
into  a  stcHpan  with  the  pudding  a  lemon,  a 
little  cinnamon,  and  as  much  moist  sugar  as 
will  make  it  quite  sweet;  set  it  over  a  fire, 
and  reduce  it  to  a  marmalade ;  pass  through 
a  hair  sieve,  and  proceed  as  directed  for  the 
Boston  pudding,  leaving  out  the  lemon-juice, 
as  die  rhulKirb  will  be  found  sufficiently  acid 
of  itself. 


SPEAKER'S.      Stone   and 


weigh  ilnee-qnartere  of  a  pound  of  raisins. 
Rub  with  butter   a    plain  o\al  mould,  and 
SAGO.     (2)  Wash  half  a  pound  '  stick  upon  it  some  of  die  raisins,  in  stripe* 


PUDDINGS 


166 


PUDDINGS 


or  circles.  Cut  some  thin  slices  of  bread 
without  the  crust,  dry  them  awhile  before 
the  fire,  butter,  and  cut  them  into  strips 
about  an  inch  and  a  quarter  wide  ;  line  the 
mould  with  part  of  the  bread,  then  put  a 
layer  of  raisins,  and  strew  over  a  table- 
spoonful  of  pounded  loaf  sugar;  add  a  layer 
of  the  bread  and  butter;  fill  the  shape  nearly 
full,  putting  bread  and  butter  on  the  top. 
Mix  with  a  pint  of  good  milk,  the  well-bea- 
ten yolks  of  four  eggs,  a  table-spoouful  of 
sugar,  one  and  a  half  of  rose-water,  and  a 
glass  of  brandy ;  pour  this  over  the  pudding, 
and  let  it  soak  one  or  two  hours.  Bake  it 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  It  may  be  boiled 
by  steam  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

— SQUASH.     One  good  squash 

stewed  and  well  bruised;  six  large  apples 
stewed  tender;  mix  them  well  together; 
add  seven  spoonfuls  of  bread  crumbs;  half 
pint  of  milk ;  two  spoonfuls  of  rose-water, 
two  of  wine ;  six  eggs ;  one  grated  nutmeg ; 
salt  and  sugar  to  taste.  Beat  all  together  till 
smooth,  and  put  in^a  dish  lined  with  puff 
paste.  Bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

•     SUET,    WIGGY'S    WAY. 

Suet,  a  quarter  of  a  pound;  flour,  three  table- 
spoonfuls;  eggs,  two;  and  a  little  grated 
ginger;  milk,  half  a  pint.  Mince  the  suet 
as  fine  as  possible,  roll  it  with  the  rolling- 
pin  so  as  to  mix  it  well  with  the  flour;  beat 
up  the  eggs,  mix  them  with  the  milk,  and 
then  mix  all  together;  wet  your  cloth  well 
in  boiling  water,  flour  it,  tie  it  loose,  put  it 
into  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  an  hour  and  a 
quarter.  Mrs.  Glasse  has  it,  "  when  you 
have  made  your  water  boil,  then  put  your 
pudding  into  your  pot." 

SUET.  Mix  six  table-spoonfuls  of 

grated  bread  with  a  pound  of  finely-minced 
fresh  beef  suet,  or  that  of  a  loin  of  mutton, 
one  pound  of  flour,  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt, 
six  well-beaten  eggs,  and  nearly  a  pint  of 
milk.  Boil  it  in  a  cloth  four  or  five  hours. 
Serve  it  plain,  or  with  a  sweet  sauce. 

APPLE  SUET.  Of  finely  minc- 
ed fresh  mutton  suet,  grated  apples,  flour,  and 
brown  sugar,  six  ounces  each,  half  a  grated 
nutmeg,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  four  well- 
beaten  eggs,  all  well  mixed  together;  boil- 
ed for  two  hours,  and  served  with  a  sweet 
sauce. 

SUET,    OR    DUMPLINGS. 

Chop  six  ounces  of  suet  very  fine;  put  it  in 
a  basin  with  six  ounces  of  flour,  two  ounces 
of  bread  crumbs,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt; 
stir  it  all  well  together:  beat  two  eggs  on  a 
plate,  add  to  them  six  table-spoonfuls  of 
milk,  put  it  by  degrees  into  the  basin,  and 


stir  it  all  well  together ;  divide  it  into  six 
dumplings,  and  tie  them  separate,  previously 
dredging  the  cloth  lightly  with  flour.  Boil 
them  one  hour.  This  is  very  good  the  next 
day  fried  in  a  little  butter.  The  above  will 
make  a  good  pudding,  boiled  in  an  earthen 
ware  mould,  with  die  addition  of  one  more 
egg,  a  little  more  milk,  and  two  ounces  of 
suet.  Boil  it  two  hours. 

N.  B. — The  most  economical  way  of  mak- 
ing suet  dumplings,  is  to  boil  them  without  a 
cloth  in  a  pot  with  beef  or  mutton  ;  no  eggs 
are  then  wanted,  and  the  dumplings -are  quite 
as  light  without:  roll  I  hem  in  (lour  Ixioreyou 
put  them  into  the  pot ;  add  six  ounces  of 
currants  washed  and  picked,  and  you  have 
currant  pudding:  or  divided  into  six  parts, 
currant  dumplings;  a  little  sugar  will  im- 
prove them. 

SWEETMEAT.      Slice  thin, 

of  orange,  lemon-peel,  and  citron,  an  ounce 
each ;  lay  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  lin- 
ed with  a  light  puff  paste;  mix  with  half  a 
pound  of  butter  melted,  the  yolks  of  seven 
eggs  and  the  whites  of  two,  and  five  ounces 
of  sugar ;  pour  this  over  the  sweetmeats,  and 
set  it  in  the  oven ;  it  will  take  rather  more 
than  half  an  hour  baking. 


TANSY.     Pour  over  a  thick 

slice  of  the  crumb  of  bread  a  quart  of  boiling 
milk;  cover  it  till  cold.     Beat  the  yolks  oi 
four  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs.       Pound 
some  tansy  with    two    or   three    leaves    of 
spinach;     squeeze    the   juice,    and    put   as 
much  of  it  as  will  make  the  pudding  a  good 
green  color,  a  glass  of  brandy,  half  a  grat- 
ed nutmeg,  and  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter; 
mix  all  the  ingredients,  sweete:i,  and  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till 
it  l>e  hot.     Bake  it  iu  a  buttered  dish  for 
half  an  hour.     Before  serving,  strew  grated 
loaf  sugar  over  the  top. 

TRA.NSl'AUENT.      Put  eight 

eggs  wfll-beaten  i;ito  a  stcwpan  with  half 
a  (xjund  of  sugar,  pounded  fine,  half  a  pound 
of  butler,  and  some  nutmeg  grated.  Set  it 
on  the  fire,  ami  keep  constantly  stirring  till 
it  thickens.  Ti;e:i  set  it  into  a  basin  to 
cool;  put  a  rich  puff  paste  round  the  edge 
of  the  dish;  pour  in  die  pudding,  and  bake 
it  in  a  moderate  oven.  It  will  cut  light 
and  clear.  Candied  orange  and  citron  may 
be  added,  if  you  think  proper. 

TAPIOCA.        Put  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  tapioca  into  a  quart  of  milk, 
and  let  it  remain  all  night,  then  put  a  spoon- 
ful of  brandy,  some  lemon-peel,  and  a  little 
spice;   let  mom  boil  gently,  add  four  eggs, 
and  the  whites  well   beaten,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar.     Bake  it. 


PUDDINGS 


167 


QUA 


TREACLE.     Mix    together  a 

pound  of  stoned  raisins,  three-quarters  of  a 

pound  of  shred  suet,  a  |x>und  of  flour,  a  pint  of 
milk,  a  tabfe-opoonful  of  treacle,  grated  gin- 
ger, and  pmiiidi-d  spice;  when  well  stirred  up, 
tie  it  in  a  (loured  cloth,  and  boil  it  four  hours. 


WEST  COUNTRY.  Mix,  with 

four  well-beaten  eggs,  half  a  pound  of  apples 
finely  minced,  tin-  same  quantity  of  grated 
bread,  and  of  well-cleaned  currants,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  In-own  sugar,  and  half  a 
tea-spoon  l"n  I  of  grated  nutmeg.  This  pudding 
may  be  either  lx>iled  or  baked,  and  instead 
of  grated  bread,  lour  ounces  of  whole  rice 
may  be  used,  which  iiiu-t  lie  boiled  in  milk, 
strained,  and  allowed  to  l>e  cold  before  being 
mixed  uitli  the  other  ingredients.  This 
puddding  is  Ix/iled  one  hour  and  a  half,  and 
served  with  a  sweet  sauce. 


WHITE.     Boil    in    a  quart  of 

milk  two  tal>le-s|XMinfuls  of  rose-water ;  add 
to  two  well-beaten  eggs,  three  tabfe-tpooafe]* 

of  flour,  and  a  little  salt  ;  stir  it  into  the 
milk,  and  if  not  thick,  dredge  in  a  little 
moie  lloiir;  just  Ix-fore  it  is  taken  oil"  tlie 
fire,  put  in  a  l>it  of  fresh  butter  the  si/.e  of  ;i 
walnut.  Serve  it  with  red  currant  jelly  up- 
on the  top  of  it. 


— WHORTLEBERRY.       This 

pudding  may  !»•  made  Ixjth  of  flour  and  in- 
dian  meal.  Use  a  pint  of  milk,  some  mo- 
lasses, and  a  little  salt,  stirred  quite  stiff 
with  meal,  and  a  quart  of  tarries  mixed  in 
with  a  g|XN>n.  Tie  the  lug  loose,  and  lei  it 
boil  lhre«'  hours.  W|K>U  made  of  flour,  pre- 
pare it  likr  lialler  puddings,  r.itller  still'  lo 
keep  tlie  Ix-rries  from  x-ttling.  Jkiil  two 
hours.  Tie  tlie  bag  loose. 

WILTSHIRE.    Mix,  with  three 

well-beaten  e^_'-  anil  a  pint  of  milk,  as  much 
flour  as  will  make  it  a  thick  batter,  and  a 
little  salt;  l>eal  it  for  some  minutes,  slir  in 
gently  a  large  tea-cupful  of  picke<!  red  eur- 
'  rants;  boil  il  in  a  cloth  lor  two  hours,  turn 
it  out  upon  the  dish  il  is  to  !»•  x-rved  in,  rut 
it  into  slices  about  thrce-qti irlers  of  an  inch 
thick,  Ixit  do  not  separate  tllem;  put  I «•( \\eeii 
each  a  thin  slice  of  butter,  and  some  brown 
sugar,  and  serve  it  hot. 

-  YORKSHIRE,  CHDER  ROAST 
MEAT.  This  pudding  i^  an  es|x-cially  c\- 
cv  llent  arrompanimenl  to  a  sirloin  of'lx-ef, 
— loin  of  veal, — or  any  tat  and  jnicv  joint. 
Six  table-spoonfuls  of"  tloiir,  three  em,  a 
tea-s|XKMilul  of  salt,  and  a  pint  of  milk,  so 
as  1. 1  make  a  middling  .-litf  baiter,  a  little 
stiller  than  \..n  would  for  |vincake-:  l»-at 
it  up  well,  and  take  care  it  is  not  liunpv  ; 
put  a  di.-.h  under  tlie  meat,  and  let  the  drip- 


pings drop  into  it  till  it  is  quite  hot  and 
well  greased;  then  pour  in  Uie  batter; — 
when  tlie  upper  surface  is  brown  and  set, 
turn  it,  that  both  sides  may  be  brown  alike: 
if  you  wish  it  to  cut  firm,  and  tlie  pudding 
an  inch  thick,  it  will  tuke  two  hours  at  a 
good  fire. 

N.  B. — Tlie  true  Yorkshire  pudding  is 
about  half  an  inch  thick  when  done ;  but  it 
is  the  fashion  in  London  to  make  them  full 
twice  that  thickness. 

PUFFS.  (1)  Roll  out  puff  paste  nearly 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and,  with  a  small 
saucer,  or  tin  cutter  of  that  size,  cut  it  into 
round  pieces:  place  upon  one  side  raspberry 
or  strawberry  jam,  or  any  sort  of  preserved 
fruit,  or  stewed  apples;  wet  the  exlges,  fold 
over  the  other  side,  and  press  it  round  with 
the  linger  and  thumb.  Or  cut  the  paste  into 
tlie  form  of  a  diamond,  lay  on  the  fruit,  and 
fold  over  the  paste,  so  as  to  give  it  a  trian- 
gular shape.  See  Paste. 

PUFFS.  (2)  Put  into  a  saucepan  a  pint 
of  milk,  Ixiil  slowly,  and'stir  in  Hour  till  it 
IK-  very  thick,  like  paste;  when  cold,  mix 
with  it  six  well-lx'iiien  eggs,  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  sugar,  half  a  nutmeg,  and  the  peel  of 
a  small  lemon  grated,  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  brandy;  beat  it  well  together  for  fifteen 
minutes,  and  when  quite  light,  drop  it  from 
a  de.-.-ert-spoon  into  a  pan  of  ixiiling  clarified 
suet  or  lard.  Serve  with  pounded  loaf  sugar 
slreucd  over  them. 

PUFFS  OF    PRESERVED  FRUIT. 

Roll  out,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  good 
pull"  [Kiste,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  four  inches 
square;  lay  a  small  qiumtilx  ofiiny  kind  of 
jam  on  each,  double  them  oxer,  and  cut  them 
into  square,  triangle,  or,  \\ith  a  tin  cutter, 
hull' moons;  lay  them  x\  ith  pa|xT  on  a  Itiking- 
platc;  ice  them,  liake  them  alxmt  twenty 
minute:-,  taking  care  not  to  color  tlie  icing. 

PUNCH.     See  Justice's  Sirup. 


Q. 

QUAILS,  HUNTERS.  Put  tlie  quails 
in  a  saucepan,  with  a  little  butter,  a  bay- 
leaf,  sweet  herbs,  salt  and  |x-p|x-r;  set  them 
on  a  fierce  fire,  and  keep  -hal.eig  them  until 
tliey  are  tender,  when  add  a  dessert-spoonful 
of  llour,  half  a  glass  of  white  wine,  and  a 
little  stock,  when  this  is  thick,  and  quite 
hot  (xvithont  boiling) ;  take  it  from  die  fire 
and  serve. 

QUAILS,  SPANISH.    Mix  the  juice 


QUE 


168 


QUI 


of  a  lemon  with  some  butter,  salt,  and  pep- 
per; pick,  and  prepare  eight  quails,  stuff 
them  well  with  the  above  mixture;  then 
fasten  the  legs  to  the  body,  leaving  the  claws 
free ;  truss  them  a  good  shape,  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  on  slices  of  bacon,  cover 
them  also  with  slices,  add  a  gravy,  moisten- 
ed with  equal  portions  of  white  wine  and 
stock;  set  them  on  the  fire  for  half  an  hour; 
then  take  them  out,  drain  and  untie  the 
birds,  place  each  on  a  piece  of  fried  bread 
the  size  of  the  quail,  and  serve  with  a  clear 
Spanish  sauce,  with  the  addition  of  a  little 
glaze. 

QUAILS,  HOT  PIE.  Make  a  raised 
crust  in  the  usual  way,  spread  over  the  bottom 
of  it  some  farce  cuite  mixed  widi  the  livers 
of  the  quails,  pounded,  and  some  sweet 
herbs ;  take  eight  quails,  take  out  the  thigh 
bones,  and  half  dress  them  in  a  little  butter 
and  sweet  herbs ;  when  cold,  stuff  each  with 
some  of  the  above-mentioned  farce,  arrange 
them  in  the  pie,  fill  up  the  intestines  and  the 
centre  with  the  remainder  «tf  the  farce,  season 
it  well,  lay  slices  of  bacon  over  the  quails ; 
wet  die  edges  of  the  paste  with  water,  cover 
the  pie  with  a  very  thin  crust;  do  it  over 
with  egg,  and  decorate  it  according  to  fancy. 
Put  it  into  the  oven  to  bake,  an  hour  and  a 
quarter  will  suffice.  When  done,  raise  the 
top  carefully,  remove  the  bacon,  take  off  all 
the  fat,  pour  in  some  good  gravy,  and  serve. 

QUAILS,  ROASTED.  Truss  the  birds, 
and  stuff  them  with  beef-suet  and  sweet 
herbs,  both  shred  very  small,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  fasten  them  to  a 
spit,  and  put  them  to  the  fire;  haste  with 
salt  and  water  when  they  fn-st  begin  to  get 
warm;  then  dredge  them  with  flour,  and 
baste  with  butter.  Put  an  anchovy,  two  or 
three  shallots,  and  the  juice  of  a  Seville  or- 
ange into  a  little  rich  gravy ;  set  it  on  the 
fire,  shake  it  about,  and  when  the  anchovy 
is  dissolved,  serve  it  with  the  quails.  Gar- 
nish the  dish  with  fried  bread  crumbs.  These 
birds  are  sometimes  roasted,  wrapped  first  in 
a  slice  of  bacon,  and  then  in  a  vine-leaf. 
They  should  be  kept  at  a  moderate  distance 
from  the  fire. 

QUAILS,  STEWED.  Put  a  little 
butter  worked  up  with  flour,  and  a  few  green 
onions  into  a  slew|xui ;  when  brown,  put 
in  some  quails,  a  glass  of  wine,  the  same  of 
stock,  parsley,  some  more  small  onions,  a 
bay-leaf,  and  two  orthree  cloves ;  stew  diese 
till  the  quails  are  sufficiently  done.  Garnish 
your  dish  with  cock's-combs,  artichoke  bot- 
toms, fried  bread,  &c. 

QUEEN'S  POTAGE.  Draw,  wash, 
and  clean  three  chickens,  or  young  fowls,  put 


them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley 
and  some  well-seasoned  boiling  veal  stock; 
let  it  stew  for  an  hour ;  take  out  the  fowVs, 
and  pound  all  the  meat  to  a  fine  paste  in  a 
marble  mortar,  with  the  crumb  of  two  penny 
loaves,  previously  soaked  in  the  soup,  and 
the  yolks  of  three  or  four  hard  boiled  eggs; 
rub  all  through  a  sieve,  and  add  it  to  the 
soup  stirring  it  well.  Put  a  quart  of  rich 
cream  on  the  fire,  and  stir  it  till  it  boils,  and 
then  mix  it  with  the  soup  and  serve  it  quile 
hot. 

QUEEN  OR  HEART  CAKES.    One 

pound  of  sifted  sugar,  one  pound  of  butter, 
eight  eggs,  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour, 
two  ounces  of  currants,  and  half  a  nutmeg 
grated.  Cream  the  butter,  and  mix  it  well 
with  the  sugar  and  spice,  then  put  in  half 
die  eggs,  and  teat  it  ten  minutes — add  the 
remainder  of  the  cuns,  and  work  it  ten  min- 
utes longer — stir  in  the  flour  lighllv,  and  the 
currants  afterwards, — thon  take  small  tin 
pans  of  any  shape  (hearts  the  most  usual), 
rub  die  inside  of  each  with  butter,  fill  and 
bake  them  a  few  minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  on 
a  sheet  of  matted  wire,  or  on  a  baking  plate 
— when  done,  remove  them  as  early  as  pos- 
sible from  the  pans. 

QUEEN'S  DROPS.  Leave  out  four 
ounces  of  flour  from  tl»e  last  receipt,  and 
add  two  ounces  more  of  currant:-,  and  two 
ounces  of  candied  peel,  cut  small — work  it 
the  same  as  in  the  last  receipt,  and  when 
ready  put  the  mixture  into  a  biscuit  funnel, 
and  lay  them  out  in  dro|H  about  the  size  of 
half  a  crown,  on  white  |)aper, — bake  them 
in  a  Iwt  oven,  and  when  nearly  cold,  take 
them  from  the  paper. 

QUINCE     COMPOTE.       Take  six 

quinces,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  core  them; 
scald  and  pare  them  neatly.  Put  some  clear 
sirup  into  a  preserving-pan,  with  the  juice 
of  a  lemon;  when  hot,  add  the  quinces,  and 
give  them  a  boil  together;  drain  the  fruit, 
arrange  it  in  the  compotier;  leave  the  sirup 
to  thicken  a  little,  and  pour  it  over  the 
quinces. 

QUINCE  CREAM.  Take  four  or  firo 
ripe  quinces,  and  roast  them,  but  not  to  sof- 
ten them;  pare,  core,  slice  them  thin,  and 
then  boil  diem  slowly  in  a  pint  of  good 
cream,  with  a  little  ginger ;  when  tolerably 
thick,  strain  it,  add  sugar  to  your  taste,  and 
flavor  it  widi  rose-water. 

QUINCE  JELLY.  Quinces  for  jelly 
ought  not  to  be  quite  ripe,  they  should,  how- 
ever, be  of  a  fine  yellow  color ;  take  off  die 
down  which  covers  them,  quarter,  core,  put 
them  into  a  saucepan,  with  water  enough 


QUI 


169 


QUI 


to  cover  them;  set  them  on  the  fire,  and 
when  soft,  lay  the  pieces  on  a  sieve  to  drain, 

pressing  them  very  slightly;  strain  the  liquor, 
and  measure  it;  clarify,  and  !»>il  to  ca»»e 
an  equal  quantity  ut "sujptr;  then  take,  it  of)', 
add  the  liquor  to  it,  stirrim;  it  well;  when 
mixed,  put  it  on  the  lire,  still  stirring;  as 
Boon  as  the  jelly  spreads  OUT  the  >pooii,  and 
falls  from  it  like  molasses;  take  it  from 
the  fire,  and  when  cold,  pour  it  into  pots. 

QUINCES  TO  KEEP.      Gather   the 

fruit  quite  ripe,  lmt  |>crfcctly  sound;  rub 
each  carefully  with  a  clean  cloth,  to  remove 
the  down;  then  quarter,  ami  put  them  into 
bottles,  corked  ti^ht.  (iive  them  lulf  an 
bom's  (toil  in  tin;  bain-marie. 

QUINCE  .M  UIMA1.ADE.  Gather 
the  fruit  when  fully  ripe,  and  <•!  a  fine  yel- 
low ;  p'arc,  quarter,  and  cure  it.  1'nt  the 
quince-  into  a  saucepan,  with  a  little  water, 
set  them  on  tin-  lire  until  tli<  \  are  quite  soli  ; 
then  lake  them  out.  and  la\  them  on  a  sieve 
to  drain;  nil)  them  through,  wei^h  the 
pulp;  IKM!  an  eqn.il  ipi.t.  • 
petit  casse,  then  add  the  pulp,  stir  them 
together  ou-r  the  lire,  until  it  will  fall  from 
the  spoon  like  a  jells  ;  the  marmalade  is 
then  lit  to  U-  pat  into  |»>ts,  and  svhen  cold, 

Co\er  them  clo-c. 

QUMT.S  TO  PICKLE.  Pare  and 
cut  half  a  d'./.cn  quinces  into  .-m.t:l  piece*, 
and  put  them,  with  a  gallon  of  water,  and 
two  |X)in;ds  of  honey,  into  a  lar^e  sauce- 
pan; mix  llieiu  :,  and  .-et  (hem 
on  a  -l..w  lire  f.r  liali"  an  hour:  Miain  the 
liquor  into  ajar;  when  quite  cold,  w  i|w  the 
quinces  |M-rfectls  dry,  and  put  them  into  it; 
coser  them  MT\  close. 

(l!'IMT.S  PI:  I  st  t;vi;i>  is  MIIITK 
JMI^.  Tike  .1-  many  quinces  as  you 
;  nre,  ch.io-e  ihem  sound;  jiare. 
qii.iiiei,  and  core  them,  strewing  powder- 
sii^ar  over  as  \oii  do  them,  tilling  up  all  the 
ilno\s  in  a  -mall  quan- 
tity of  \\  .iter,  and  sshen  all  an-  cut,  add  more 
Mater,  and  *•(  them  on  a  fierce,  lire  to  boil 
quicklv.  A-  soon  a?  the  quince.-,  are  tender, 
and  the  simp  cle.ir,  add  some  apple-jellv, 
uholc  ..ne  U.il,  and  then  pour  it 
into  glasses;  when  cold,  drain  oil  the  .-imp 
-Mid  jelly,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  and 
let  them  boil  as  quick  as  \ou  can;  ju-t  be- 
f  ML-  the  jelly  is  taken  oii,  put  in  a  small 
quantity  of  musk,  or  any  other  ingredient 
you  mas  wish  to  flavor  the  preserve  with, 
and  then  pour  it  in  the  glasses  again,  over 
the  quinces.-,  and  when  cold  cover  them. 
This  may  also  he  colored  red  by  adding  a 
small  quantity  of  prepared  cochineal;  in 
this  care,  the  jelly  should  be  red  too. 
15 


QUINCES  THE  SPANISH  WAY. 
Pare  and  core  ten  pounds  of  quinces,  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  water  and  two  pounds  of  fine  sugar,  set 
them  on  a  slow  fire,  and  when  they  begin 
to  dry.  moisten  them  with  rose-water  and 
sack,  or  white  wine;  then  press  the  paste 
through  a  coarse  sieve,  add  two  pounds  of 
sugar,  a  little  orange-flower  and  rose  water. 
When  sufficiently  done,  it  will  come  off 
clean,  if  dropped  on  a  plate;  then  set  it 
aside  to  cool.  Put  it  into  .-hall.iw  pots, 
strew  perfiuned  comfits  over,  and  cover 
them  close. 

QUINCES,  SIRUP  OF.  Pare  and 
scrape  mme  very  ripe  quinces  into  a  linen 
cloth,  press  out  the  juice,  which  put  in  a 
very  iiarm  place,  or  wliere  it  is  exposed  to 
the  sun,  until  all  the  fecnla  lalls  to  the  bot- 
tom;  then  strain  it  well,  and  for  every 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  juice,  take  one  pound 
of  sugar;  mix  them  togedier,  and  lH.il  the 
whole  to  perle;  take  it  off,  and  sshen  the 
.-imp  is  nearly  cold,  it  may  he  bottled. 
Take  care  to  keep  the  bottles  well  corked. 

QIIXCE  TART.     Take  some  preser- 
ved quinces,  make  a  sirnp  \\ith  >  <  . 
and  water,  of  which,  and  the  preserve,  take 

an  equal  weight^ aod  put  it  iatoapreMnriog- 

IKIII;  lx.il,  skim,  and  then  put  in  the  fruit; 
when  tolerably  clear,  lay  the  quinces  in  a 
tart-dir.h  with  (Hill  paste  as  usual ;  cover  and 
Uikc  it;  as  soon  as  il  is  done  raise  the  top 
gently,  pour  '"  'I"'  sirup,  ice  it,  and  serve. 

Q I  I  \  S  SAUCE.     See  Sauce. 

(il T.\Ti:ssKM'E  OF  ANCHOVY. 
The  goodne.-s  of  this  preparation  depends 
aim. .-t  entirely  on  having  line  mellow  fieh, 
that  liase  IM-CII  in  pickle  loiiii  enough  (t.  t. 
alxint  twelve,  months)  to  dissolve  easily,  yet 
lire  not  at  ;i"  rn.-ty. 

Choose  those   that  are  in  die   state  they 

c e  oser  iii,  not  such  as  have  Ix-cn  pul  into 

fn-h  pickle,  mixed  with  red  paint,  which 
some  add  to  improve  the  complexion  of  the 
li-h;  it  has  been  said,  that  others  have  a 
trick  of  putting  anchovy  liquor  on  pickled 
sprats ;  you  will  easily  discover  this  by  wash- 
ing one  of  tin-in,  and"  tasting  the  llesh  of  il, 
which  in  the  tine  anchovy  is  mellow,  red, 
and  liiuli-tl.iMiivd,  and  the  bone  in 
oily.  Make  only  as  much  as  will  soon  be 
used,  the  ire- her  it  is  the  better. 

Put  ten  or  twelve  anchovies  into  a  mortar, 
and  pound  them  to  a  pulp;  put  this  into  a 
very  clean  iron,  or  silver,  or  very  well 
tinned  saucepan;  then  put  a  large  table- 
spoonful  of  cold  spring-water  (we  prefer 
good  vinegar)  into  the  mortar;  shake  it 
round,  and  pour  it  to  die  pounded  andioviec, 


RABBIT 


170 


RABBIT 


set  them  by  the  side  of  a  slow  fire,  very  fre- 
quently stirring  them  together  till  they  are 
melted,  which  they  will  be  in  the  course  of 
five  minutes.  Now  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a 
drachm  of  good  cayenne  pepper,  and  let  it 
remain  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  min- 
utes longer;  then,  while  it  is  warm,  rub  it 
through  a  hair  sieve,  with  the  back  of  a 
wooden  spoon. 

,  The  essence  of  anchovy,  is  made  with 
double  the  al>ove  quantity  of  water,  as  they 
are  of  opinion  that  it  ought  to  be  so  thin  as 
not  to  hang  about  the  sides  of  the  bottle; 
when  it  does,  the  large  surface  of  it  is  soon 
acted  upon  by  the  air,  and  becomes  rancid 
and  spoils  all  the  rest  of  it. 

A  roll  of  thin-cut  lemon-peel  infused  with 
the  anchovy,  imparts  a  fine,  fresh,  delicate, 
aromatic  flavor,  which  is  very  grateful ;  this 
is  only  recommended  when  you  make  sauce 
for  immediate  use;  it  will  keep  much  better 
without:  if  you  wish  to  acidulute  it,  instead 
of  water  make  it  with  artificial  lemon-juice. 


K. 


RABBITS.  (1)  Truss  your  rabbits  short, 
lay  them  in  a  basin  of  warm  water  for  ten 
minutes,  then  put  them  into  plenty  of  water, 
and  boil  them  about  half  an  hour;  if  large 
ones,  throe-quartan;  if  very  old,  an  hour: 
smother  them  with  plenty  of  white  onion 
sauce,  mince  the  liver,  and  lay  it  round  the 
dish,  01 
a  boat. 


dish,  or  make  liver  sauce,  and  send  it  up  in 


id  lay 
,  and 


Obs. — Ask  those  you  are  going  to  make 
liver  sauce  for,  if  they  like  plain  liver  sauce, 
or  liver  and  parsley,  or  liver  and  lemon  sauce. 

N.  B. — It  will  save  much  trouble  to  the 
carver,  if  the  rabbits  be  cut  up  in  the  kitchen 
into  pieces  fit  to  help  at  table,  and  the  head 
divided,  one-half  laid  at  each  end,  and  slices 
of  lemon  and  the  liver,  choppa-1  very  finely, 
laid  on  the  sides  of  the  dish. 

At  all  events,  cut  off  the  head  before  you 
send  it  to  table,  we  hardly  remember  that 
the  thing  ever  lived  if  we  don't  see  the  head, 
while  it  may  excite  ugly  idens  to  see  it  cut 
up  in  an  attitude  imitative  of  life;  ta.-ides, 
for  the  preservation  of  the  head,  the  poor  an- 
imal sometimes  suffers  a  slower  death. 

RABBITS.  (2)  If  your  fire  is  clear 
and  sharp,  thirty  minutes  will  roast  a  young, 
and  forty  a  full  grown  rabbit.  When  you 
lay  it  down,  baste  it  with  butter,  and  dredge 
it  lightly  and  carefully  with  (lour,  that  yon 
may  have  it  frothy,  and  of  a  fine  light  brown. 
While  the  rabbit  is  roasting,  boil  its  liver 
with  some  pai  sley ;  when  tender,  chop  them 
together,  and  put  half  the  mixture  into  some 
melted  butter,  reserving  the  other  half  for 


garnish,  divided  into  little  hillocks.  Cat 
off  the  bead,  and  lay  half  on  each  side  of 
the  dish. 

Obs. — A  fine,  well-grown  (but  young) 
warren  rabbit,  kept  sometime  after  it  has 
Ijeen  killed,  and  roasted  with  a  stuffing  in 
its  tally,  eats  very  like  a  hare,  to  the  nature 
of  which  it  approaches.  It  is  nice,  nourishing 
food  when  young,  but  hard  and  unwholesome 
when  old. 

RABBIT,  BROILED.  Take  a  couple  of 
young  rabbits,  cut  them  up,  and  put  them  to 
steep  for  a  few  hours  in  a  little  oil,  mixed 
with  parsley,  leeks,  a  few  mushrooms,  and  a 
clove  of  garlic,  all  shred  line,  salt  and  pepper; 
roll  eaeli  piece  of  rabbit  in  a  rasher  Of  bacon, 
and  put  them,  with  a  part  of  the  seasoning, 
into  pieces  of  white  paper;  butter  the  papers 
inside;  broil  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  very 
slow  fire,  and  serve  hot  in  the  papers. 

RABBITS,  IN  A  FRICASSEE.    Take 

two  fine  white  rabbitr,  and  cut  them  in 
pieces,  by  cutting  off  the  legs,  shoulders,  and 
back;  blanch  them  in  boiling  water,  and 
skim  them  for  one  minute;  stir  a  few  trim- 
mings of  mushrooms  in  a  stewpan  over  the 
fire,  with  a  bit  of  butter,  till  it  begins  to  fry, 
then  stir  in  a  spoonful  of  flour;  mix  into  the 
flour,  a  little  at  a  time,  nearly  a  quart  of 
good  consomme,  which  set  on  the  fire,  and 
when  it  boils,  put  the  rabbits  in,  and  let  them 
boil  gently  till  done,  then  put  them  into 
another  stewpan,  and  reduce  the  sauce  till 
nearly  as  thick  as  paste;  mix  in  about  half 
a  pint  of  good  boiling  cream,  and  when  it 
becomes  the  thickness  of  bechamelle  sauce 
in  general,  squeeze  it  through  I  ho  tammy 
to  the  rabbits;  make  it  very  hot,  shake  in  a 
few  mushrooms,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a 
little  cream,  then  serve  it  to  table.  Rabbits 
]>IH\  also  be  preserved,  white  or  brown,  in 
the  same  manner  as  chickens. 

RABBIT,  MINCED.  Take  the  re- 
mains of  a  roasted  rabbit,  cut  off  all  the 
meat,  and  mince  it  with  a  little  roast  mutton. 
Then  break  the  Ixjucs  of  the  rabbit  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan, 
with  a  slice  of  butter,  some  shallots,  half  a 
clove  of  garlic,  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and  basil; 
give  these  a  few  turns  over  the  fire,  then  shake 
in  a  little  Hour;  moisten  with  a  glass  of  red 
wine,  and  the  same  quantity  of  stock,  and 
let  it  boil  over  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour; 
strain  it  off,  and  put  in  the  minced  meat, 
adding  salt  and  coarse  pepper;  heat  the 
whole,  without  boiling,  and  serve  hot:  gar- 
nish with  fried  bread. 

RABBITS  IN  A  MINUTE.  Cut  your 
rabbits  into  pieces,  wipe  them- perfectly  dry; 
put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 


RABBIT 


171 


RABBIT 


stewpan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  warm, 
put  in  the  rabbit  with  a  little  pounded  .-pice, 
salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg ;  let  the  fire 
!»•  brisk,  and  as  goon  as  toe  pieces  are 
browned,  ;idd  a  little  shred  parsley  und  shal- 
lots, leave  it  three  or  four  minutes  lunger  on 
the  fire,  and  then  serve.  Ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes are  sufficient  to  cook  this  dish. 

RABBIT  PIE.  Git  a  couple  of  young 
rabbits  into  quarters,  and  bruise  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  bacon  in  a  mortal',  with  the 
livers,  some  pepper,  salt,  a  little  mace,  pars- 
ley, cut  small,  and  a  few  leaves  of  sweet  ba- 
sil;  when  these  are  all  beaten  fine,  line  your 
pie-dish  with  a  nice  crust,  then  put  a  layer 
of  the  seasoning  at  die  bottom  of  the  dish, 
and  put  in  the  rabbits;  pound  some  more 
bacon  in  a  inortur,  mix  with  it  some  fresh 
butter, -and  cover  the  rabbits  with  it,  and 
over  that  lay  thin  si  ices  of  bacon ;  put  mi  the 
cover,  and  place  it  in  the  oven;  it  will  l>e 
done  in  about  two  hours ;  when  baked,  take 
off  the  cover,  take  out  the  bacon  and  skim 
off  the  fat,  and  if  there  is  not  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  gravy,  add  some  rich  mutton  or 
veal  gravy. 

KAl'.RIT  PIE,  RAISED.  Cut  your 
rabbits  in  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  bit  of  fresh  butter,  lemon-juice, 

pep|»T,  salt,  [Kirsley,  thyme,  shallots, chopped 
very  line,  and  a  little  pounded  mace.  When 
the  pieces  of  rabbit  are  alxjut  half  done,  lay 
them  on  a  dish,  and  when  cold,  raise  the 
cm-!-,  put  li^ht  forcemeat  at  the  bottom; 
the  rabbit  u|>»ii  it,  and  more  forcemeat  ii|xm 
Cover  it,  and  put  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  to  l/ake  gently;  when  done,  take  oil' 
die  cover,  and  add  a  ragout  of  sweetbreads 
cock's  combs,  &c.,  and  serve. 

RABBITS,  PORTUGUESE.  Cutoff 
the  heads  of  a  couple  of  rabbits,  turn  the 

I  tack*  upward.",  tlie  two  legs  stri|>|xil  lit  tlie 
end,  anil  tiu.-.-cd  with  a  couple  of  skewer.* 
in  the  same  manner  as  chickens,  the  u 'up- 
turned like  the  pinions  of  a  chicken;  lard 
and  n>a.-t  them  with  good  gravy ;  if  they  are 
intended  for  boiling,  they  should  not  !*•  lard- 
ed, but  be  served  with  bacon,  and  greens, 
or  celery  sauce. 

RABBITS,    POTTED.     Take  two  or 

'ing,  but  full-grown  rabbits,  cut  them 
up,  and  take  off  die  leg  bones  at  the  thigh, 
season  them  well  with  pepprr,  mace,  cav- 
enne,  Kilt,  and  allspice,  all  in  \er\  lih<-p..w- 

:  [Kit  them  into  a  .-mall  pin,  placing 
tin-in  as  closely  together  us  possible.  Make 
the  top  as  smooth  a«  you  can.  Keep  out  the 
heads  and  carcawe*,  but  take  off  the  meat 
abmit  the  neck.  Put  plenty  of  butler,  and 
let  tlie  whole  lake  gently.  1-et  it  n-m.iin  in 


the  pan  for  two  days,  then  put  it  into  small 
pots,  adding  butter.  The  livers  should  also 
be  put  in. 

RABBIT  PRESERVED.  Having 
boned  a  rabbit,  lard  it  with  bacon  and  ham; 
season  it  well  inside  and  out,  roll  it  up,  be- 
ginning with  tlie  legs,  make  it  tight,  and 
tie  it.  Put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  with  some 
oil,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  and  basil;  set  these 
on  die  fire  till  done  enough  (but  without 
boiling).  When  sufficiently  cooked,  take 
out  the  rabbit,  drain,  let  it  cool,  and  then 
cut  it  into  small  pieces,  which  put  into  bot-  • 
ties;  fill  them  with  oil  and  cover  with  wet 
bladders.  When  required  for  table,  take 
them  out,  cut  them  into  fillets,  and  place 
on  a  dish  with  shred  parsley  and  oil. 

RABBITS  PULLED.  Half  boil  your 
rabbits,  with  an  onion,  a  little  whole  |XJD- 
per,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  piece  of 
lernon-peel;  pull  the  flesh  into  flakes;  put 
to  it  a  little  of  the  liquor,  a  bit  of  butter  roll- 
ed in  Hour,  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  chopped 
parsley,  and  the  liver  boiled  and  bruised; 
lx>il  this  up,  shaking  it  round,  and  serve. 

RABBITS,   ROASTED.    Truss  them 

lor  roasting,  and  stull  them  with  the  liver 
minced  raw,  grated  bread,  and  ham,  butter 
or  suet,  and  chopped  parsley,  seasoned  with 
a  little  lemon  thyme,  grated  nutmeg,  salt,  and 
pep|KT,and  bound  with  aliens  l«  alen.  Sew 
them  up,  and  roast  them  Ix-lore  a  quick  fire, 
and  baste  them  with  butter.  Serve  them 
with  gravy,  or  melted  butter  with  lemon 
pickle  in  "it.  Two  will  take  an  hour  to 
i  hey  may  also  be  fricasseed  01  fried, 
cut  into  joint*,  with  plenty  of  fried  parsley, 
and  served  with  a  sauce  made  of  die  liver 
and  some  parsley  chop|x-d,  and  mixed  in 
melted  butter,  with  a  little  |>ep|xT  and  salt, 
or  made  into  a  pie  tlie  same  as  chickens. 

RABBIT   SOUP.       Cut  an  old  rabbit 

•  s,  put  thnii  into  a  quart  of  water; 
boil  it  well,  take  out  all  the  bones,  and  beat 
die  meat  in  a  marble  mortar,  as  for  potting; 
add  a  little  salt,  mace,  and  white  pepper,  to 
your  ta.-ie;  stir  it  into  the  liquor  tlie  rabbit 
was  boiled  in,  \\  ith  die  addition  of  a  very 
little  cream. 

.\.  B.  The  meat  of  die  whole  rabbit  is 
too  much  for  one  quart;  query,  would  it 
not  be  enough  for  two! 

RABBITS    STEWED,    WITH     A 

BROWN  SAUCE,  OR  WITH  A  WHITE 
SAUCE.  Wash  and  clean  tlie  rabbits  well, 
let  them  lie  for  two  or  three  liours  in  cold 
water,  cut  them  into  joints,  wash  and  dry 
tliem  in  a  cloth,  dust  them  with  flour,  and 
fry  them  of  a  light  brown  w  ith  butter,  and 


RAG 


172 


R  AS 


stew  them  in  the  following  sance :  Brown 
three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  a  minced  onion,  some 
pepper  and  salt ;  add  a  pint  of  gravy  and 
the  rabbits,  stew  them  till  they  are  tender, 
and  a  little  before  serving,  stir  in  a  table- 
spoonfiil  of  ketchup.  When  it  is  wished  to 
dress  with  a  white  sauce,  the  rabbits  are  not 
fried,  but  stewed  in  while  stock,  which  is 
seasoned  with  white  pepper,  and  salt,  and 
thickened  with  a  piece  of  butter  mixed  with 
flour.  A  few  minutes  before  serving,  a  little 
cream  is  added,  and  a  table-spoonlul  of  lemon 
pickle. 

RADISHES  IN  BROTH.  Take  some 
young  radishes,  pick  and  scald  them,  cut 
them  into  halves  or  quarters  according  to 
their  size,  and  boil  them  with  a  slice  of  ba- 
con in  some  stock.  In  a  little  time  take 
them  out,  drain,  and  put  them  into  another 
stew-pan,  with  consomme,  or  veal  gravy, 
and  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Let  them 
stew  gently  in  this  till  they  are  flavored,  of 
a  good  color,  and  the  sauce  pretty  thick ; 
then  serve  them. 

RAGOUT  POWDER.  Two  ounces 
of  truffles,  two  of  dried  mushrooms,  the 
peel  of  a  lemon,  and  the  same  of  a  Seville 
orange  grated,  half  a  grated  nutmeg,  half  an 
ounce  of  mace,  the  same  of  pepper,  and  one 
drachm  of  cayenne,  dry  them  all  well  before 
the  fire,  pound  tliem  to  a  fine  [»\vder,  add 
one  ounce  of  salt,  sift  the  powder  through  a 
sieve,  and  keep  it  it  in  a  bottle  for  use. 

RAGOUT  OF  SNIPES.  Pick  six  or 
eight  snipes  very  nicely,  but  do  not  wash 
them ;  take  out  the  inside.  Roast  the  birds, 
and  cut  off  all  the  meat  from  the  breasts,  in 
thin  slices;  pound  the  bones,  legs,  and 
backs,  in  a  mortar,  and  put  them  into  a 
stew-pan,  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  little 
flour,  and  some  well-seasoned  gravy;  boil  it 
till  it  be  thick,  and  well  flavored  with  the 
game,  then  strain  it.  Cut  half  a  pound  of 
ham  into  thin  long  slices,  and  heat  it  in  a 
little  butter,  with  two  minced  shallots;  put 
it,  with  the  breasts  of  the  snipes,  into  the 
strained  sauce,  and  let  it  boil.  Pound  the 
inside,  or  trail,  with  a  little  salt,  spread  it 
over  thin  bite  of  toasted  bread,  and  hold 
over  it  a  hot  salamander.  Put  the  ragout 
upon  this,  and  place  the  ham  round  it. 

RAGOUT  OF  COLD  VEAL.  Either 
a  neck,  loin,  or  fillet  of  veal,  will  furnish 
thisexcellent  ragout  with  a  very  little  expense 
or  trouble.  Cut  the  veal  into  handsome  cut- 
lets ;  put  a  piece  of  butter  or  clean  dripping 
into  a  frying-pan;  as  soon  as  it  is  hot,  flour 
and  fry  the  veal  of  a  light  brown :  take  it 
out,  and  if  you  have  no  gravy  ready,  make 


some  as  follows:  put  a  pint  of  boiling  water 
into  the  frying-pan,  give  it  a  boil  up  for  a 
minute,  and  strain  it  into  a  basin  while  yon 
make  some  thickening  in  the  following  man- 
ner: put  about  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a 
stewpan ;  as  soon  as  it  melts,  mix  with  it  aa 
much  flour  as  will  dry  it  up;  stir  it  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minute?  and  gradually  add  to  it 
the  gravy  you  made  in  the  frying-pan;  let 
them  simmer  together  for  ten  minutes  (till 
thoroughly  incorporated) ;  season  it  with  pep- 
per, salt,  a  little  mace,  and  a  wine-glassful  of 
mushroom  ketchup  or  wine;  strain  it  through 
a  tamis  to  the  meat,  and  stew  very  gently 
till  the  meat  is  thoroughly  warmed.  If  you 
have  any  ready  boiled  bacon,  cut  it  in  slices, 
and  put  it  in  to  warm  with  the  meat. 

RAMEQUINS.  Take  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  Cheshire  cheese,  scraped,  tlie  same 
quantity  of  Gloucester  cheese,  and  beat  them 
in  a  mortar,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  the 
inside  of  a  French  roll,  boiled  in  cream  till 
soft;  when  all  i.s  lx>aten  to  a  paste,  mix  it 
with  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  previously  beat- 
en, and  put  tlie  paste  into  small  paper  cases, 
made  rather  long  than  square,  and  put  them 
to  bake  in  a  Dutch  oven,  till  of  a  fine  brown, 
They  should  IK:  served  quite  hot.  You  mav, 
if  you  think  projjer,  add  a  glass  of  white  wine. 

RASPBERRY  CREAM.     See  Cream. 

RASPBERRY  DUMPLINGS.    Take 

some  good  puff  paste,  roll  it  out,  and  spread 
raspberry  jam  over  it ;  roll  it  up,  and  boil  it 
rattier  more  than  an  hour;  cut  it  into  five 
slices ;  pour  melted  butter  into  tlie  dish,  grate 
sugar  round,  and  serve. 

RASPBERRY     FRITTERS.      Grate 

two  \aplcs,  biscuits,  or  the  crumb  of  a  French 
roll ;  put  to  either  a  pint  of  boiling  cream. 
When  this  is  cold,  add  to  it  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs,  well  beaten;  beat  all  well  together 
with  some  raspl>erry  juice;  drop  this  in  very 
small  quantities,  into  a  pan  of  boiling  lard; 
stick  them  with  blanched  almonds,  sliced. 

RASPBERRY  FLUMMERY.  Mix 
with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  vinegar  one 
pound  of  raspberries,  or  one  pound  of  pre- 
served i-asplxTries,  let  it  boil  for  three  or 
four  minutes,  stirring  it  ronstanly;  s-train 
it  through  a  hair  sieve;  dissolve  one  ounce 
of  isinglass  in  half  a  pint  of  water;  mix 
with  it  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  pounded 
sugar,  add  it  to  the  strained  raspberries 
stir  it  all  well  together;  boil,  and  strain  it 
through  a  bit  of  muslin,  and  put  it  into  a 
shape.  Turn  it  out  when  cold. 

RASPBERRY   JELLY.      See  Jelhf. 


REL 


173 


RICE 


RASPBERRY  ICE.  Press  the  juice 
from  as  many  raspberrries  as  will  yield  a 
pound  and  a  half;  put  it  into  a  glazed  pan, 
and  leave  it  for  four  days.  Then  carefully 
raise  the  skin  that  has  formed  on  the  top  of 
it,  pour  off  the  juice  into  another  vessel; 
clarify  a  |x»un<!  and  a  half  of  sugar,  with  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  water,  add  the  juice,  and 
give  them  half  a  dozen  boils;  if  not  suffi- 
ciently red,  put  in  a  root  of  orkanet,  which 
leave  in  till  of  the  proper  color;  strain  the 
preparation  through  a  sieve ;  when  cold,  put 
it  into  the  sabotiere,  and  freeze  it.  See  Ice. 

I:  \SPBERRY  SPONGE.  Dissolve 
in  a  little  water  three-quarters  of  an  ounce 
of  isinglass,  add  to  it  three-quarters  of  a 
pint  of  cream,  and  the  same  proportion  of 
new  milk,  nearly  half  a  pint  of  raspl>erry 
jelly,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Whisk  it 
well  one  wav  till  ii  becomes  thick,  and  looks 
like  sponge,  then  put  it  into  an  earthenware 
mould,  and  turn  it  out  the  next  day. 

RASPBERRY    TART.       Line   your 
dish  with  a  nice  puff  paste,    lay 
and  fruit,  put  bars  across,  and  bake. 

RASPBERRY  TART  WITH  CREAM. 
Line  a  patty-pan  with  thin  puff  paste,  lay 
in  some  raspberries,  and  strew  sonic  very 
finely  sifted  sugar  over  them;  cover  them 
with  puff  paste,  and  bake  it;  when  done, 
cut  it  open,  and  put  in  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
in  which  has  been  previously  beaten  the  \ulks 
of  two  or  three  eggs,  and  sweetened  with  a 
little  wgar;  when  this  is  added  to  the  tart, 
return  it  to  the  oven  five  or  six  minutes. 

RED  CABBAGE.  Get  a  fine  purple 
cabbage,  lake  off  the  outside  leaves,  quarter 
it,  take  out  the  stalk,  shred  the  leaves  into 
a  colander,  s|>rinkle  them  «  ith  salt,  let  them 
remain  till  the  morrow,  drain  them  dry,  put 
them  into  a  jar,  and  cover  them  with  the 
pickle  for  beet  roots. 

RED  MULLET.  Scrape  and  wash 
them,  fold  them  in  buttered  paper,  lay  them 
into  a  dish,  and  bake  them  gently.  The 
liquor  that  comes  from  them,  boil  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  dusted  with  flour,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  s<>y,  two  of  essence  of  anchovy, 
and  a  little  white  wine.  Serve  the  sauce  in 
:i  butler-tureen.  This  M\  is  called  the  sea 
woodcock,  from  being  dressed  with  the 


RELISH  FOR  CHOPS,  &c.  Pound 
fine  an  ounce  of  black  |>epper,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  ;dl.-|>iee,  with  an  ounce  of  salt,  and 
half  an  ounre  of  scraped  horseradish,  and 
the  same  of  eschalots.,  peeled  and  quartered; 
put  these  ingredients  into  a  pint  of  inusliroom 
15* 


ketchup,  or  walnut  pickle,  and  let  them  steep 
for  a  fortnight,  and  then  strain  it. 

Obs. — A  tea-spoonful  or  two  of  this  is 
generally  an  acceptable  addition,  mixed 
with  the  gravy  usually  sent  up  for  chops  and 
steaks,  or  added  to  thick  melted  butter. 

REMOULADE,  INDIAN.  Pound  the 
yolks  often  hard  eggs  to  a  paste,  dilute  it 
with  eight  spoonfuls  of  oil,  put  in  one  at  a 
time,  and  continue  pounding  all  the  time; 
then  add  about  a  dozen  allspice,  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  saffron,  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  vine- 
gar, salt,  and  pepper;  amalgamate  the  whole 
perfectly,  strain  it  through  a  bolting-cloth, 
and  sei;\  e  it  in  a  sauce  tureen.  This  sauce 
should  be  rather  thick. 

RENNET.  (1)  As  soon  as  the  catf 
is  killed,  take  out  the  stomach,  and  scour  it 
inside  and  out  with  salt,  after  it  is  cleared 
of  the  curd  always  found  in  it.  Let  it  drain 
for  a  few  hours,  after  which  sew  it  up  with 
two  large  handfuls  of  salt  in  it,  or  stretch  it 
on  a  stick  well  salted;  or  keep  it  in  the 
salt,  wet,  and  soak  a  bit,  which  will  do  over 
and  over  by  fresh  water. 

RENNET.  (2)  Prepare  the  maw  the 
same  as  in  the  above  receipt:  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  put  a  handful  of  hawthorn-tops,  a 
handful  of  sweet  briar,  a  handful  of  rose- 
leaves,  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  forty  cloves, 
four  blades  of  mace,  a  sprig  of  knotted  mar- 
joram, and  two  large  spoonfuls  of  -alt,  into 
two  quarts  of  fresh  spring  water;  let  them 
tx.il  uiTitly  till  the  water  is  reduced  to  three 
pints,  then  strain  it  off,  and  when  only  milk 
warm,  |H>ur  it  on  the  maw.  Slice  a  lemon, 
and  add  to  it;  in  two  days,  strain  it  again, 
and  put  into  bottles.  Aromatic  herbs  may 
be  put  in  also;  take  care  that  it  is  sufficient- 
ly salt.  If  the  maw  be  again  salted  for  a 
few  days,  and  dried  as  above,  it  will  be 
quite  as  fit  for  use  as  before;  it  should  be 
kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  A  small  quantity 
of  the  liquid  is  sufficient  for  turning. 

RHUBARB  TART.  Let  the  stalks  be 
of  a  good  size,  take  off  the  thin  skin,  and 
cut  them  into  lengths  of  four  or  five  inches; 
lay  them  in  a  dish,  and  put  over  a  thin 
sirup  of  sugar  and  water;  cover  with  another 
dish,  and  let  it  simmer  slowly  for  an  boor 
upon  a  hot  hearth,  or  do  them  in  a  block- 
tin  saucepan.  As  soon  as  cold,  make  it 
into  a  tart;  wlien  tender,  the  baking  the 
crust  will  l<e  sufficient;  or  you  may  cut  the 
stalks  into  little  hits,  the  size  of  gooseberries, 
and  make  your  tart  the  same  as  gooseberry 
tart. 

RICE  BLANCMANGE.  Put  a  tea- 
cupful  of  whole  rice  into  the  leant  water 


RICE 


174 


RICE 


possible,  till  it  almost  bursts ;  tlien  add  half 
a  pint  of  good  milk  or  thin  cream,  and  boil 
it  till  it  is  quite  a  mash,  stirring  it  the  whole 
time  it  is  on  the  fire,  that  it  may  not  burn ; 
dip  a  shape  in  cold  water,  and  do  not  dry 
it;  put  in  the  rice,  and  let  it  stand  until 
quite  cold,  when  it  will  come  easily  out  of 
die  shape.  This  dish  is  much  approved  of; 
it  is  eaten  with  cream  or  custard,  and  pre- 
served fruits ;  raspberries  are  best.  It  should 
be  made  the  day  before  it  is  wanted,  that  it 
may  get  firm.  This  blancmange  will  eat 
much  nicer,  flavored  with  spices,  lemon-peel, 
&c.,  and  sweetened  with  a  little  loaf  sugar, 
add  it  with  the  milk,  and  take  outthelemon- 
-peel  before  you  put  in  the  mould. 

RICE,  TO  BOIL.  Wash  the  rice  per- 
fectly clean,  and  put  on  one  pound  in  two 
quarts  of  cold  water ;  let  it  boil  twenty  min- 
utes, strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  put  it  be- 
fore the  fire;  shake  it  up  with  a  fork  every 
now  and  then,  to  separate  the  grains,  and 
make  it  quite  dry.  Serve  it  hot. 

RICE  CASSEROLE.  Take  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  rice,  wash  it  thoroughly  in 
several  waters  (warm),  and  then  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  at  least  eight  inches  in 
diameter;  moisten  it  with  stock,  in  this  pro- 
portion ;  if  tlie  rice  lies  an  inch  thick,  let 
the  stock  come  two  inches  above  it,  and 
four  ladlefuls  of  fowl  skimmings;  place  the 
eaucepan  on  a  hot  stove;  when  the  rice 
boils,  set  it  on  the  side,  and  skim  it;  then 
put  it  on  hot  ashes,  cover,  and  let  it  boil 
slowly  lor  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  stir  it, 
let  it  boil  as  before;  in  twenty  or  twenty- 
five  minutes,  stir  it  again ;  if  by  this  time 
the  rice  is  perfectly  soft,  take  it  off,  but  if 
not,  add  a  little  more  liquid,  and  continue 
boiling  until  it  ia  so;  place  the  saucepan 
aslant  on  the  side  of  the  stove  that  the  tilt 
may  drain  awav  and  be  taken  off  easily. 
As  soon  as  the  rice  is  lukewarm,  work  it 
into  a  firm,  smooth,  paste,  with  a  spatula; 
it  can  hardly  be  worked  up  too  much,  as 
every  grain  of  rice  ought  to  pass  under  pres- 
sure (if  necessary,  add  more  stuck,  a  very 
little  at  a  time).  When  the  paste  is  thus 
thoroughly  worked  up,  form  your  casserole 
•of  it,  first  laving  it  in  a  heap,  four  or  five 
inches  high,  and  seven  in  diameter;  do  it 
with  the  hand  as  you  would  a  raised  crust; 
make  the  ornaments  of  the  outer  surface  with 
the  point  of  "a  knife,  or  by  carrots  cut  for 
the  purpose,  taking  care  that  the  decorations 
Iv  detached  from  the  mass  of  rice,  at  least 
nn  inch;  attention  to  this  particular  \\ill 
uot  only  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  form,  Ixit 
t«  ilie  color  also,  as  the  raised  parts  «  ill  be 
lightly  colored,  while  the  ground  ^ill  be 
quite  white.  When  properly  formed,  mask 
the  whole  surface  with  clarified  butter,  and 


place  it  in  a  hot  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half, 
by  which  time  it  will  Iw  of  a  fine  clear  yel- 
low. Take  oil  the  top  of  your  casserole, 
clear  away  all  the  rice  from  the  inside  that 
dues  not  adhere  to  the  crust  (which  ought  to 
be  very  thin),  ami  mix  it  with  bechameHe, 
espagnole,  or  whatever  other  sauce  may  be 
proper,  put  it  in  again,  and  then  fill  your 
casserole,  with  such  ragouts  as  your  fancy 
may  dictate;  glaze  the  surface  of  the  outer 
ornaments,  and  serve  it.  Water,  with  but- 
ter and  salt,  is  frequently  thought  preferable 
to  the  stock,  Sic.,  as  the  rice  is  thereby 
rendered  much  whiter. 

RICE  CASSOLETTES.  The  rice 
prepared  as  above  may  Iv  put  into  smaller 
moulds,  those  called  dariole  moulds,  and 
it  should  be  quite  cold  before  it  is  turned  out, 
the  mince  or  whatever  is  put  inside  being 
also  cold ;  it  must  be  put  in  carefully,  that 
none  of  it  may  mix  with  the  rice,  otherwise 
the  cassolettes  >vould  break  in  the  process 
of  frying;  for  the  same  reason,  the  dripping 
must  l)e  very  hot.  Frying  is  the  best  and 
quickest  method  of  doing  them,  but  they  may 
also  lie  browned  in  the  oven  as  the  casserole 
of  rice. 

RICE  CHEESE.  Boil  an  ounce  of 
rice,  thick  as  hasty  pudding,  in  rather  less 
than  half  a  pint  of  milk  (new);  pour  it  hot 
on  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter,  the  same 
weight  of  sugar,  mixing  it  well  together;  let 
it  stand  till  cold;  then  add  one  egg,  and  the 
yolk  of  another,  and  a  little  white  wine. 

RICE  CREAM.     Mix   some  rice  flour 

with  half  a  glass  of  cold  milk;  then  by  de- 
grees, add  a  pint  more,  also  cold,  and  put 
it  with  a  bay-leaf  into  a  saucepan,  set  it  on 
a  slow  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  then  strain 
and  flavor  it  with  orange-flower  water, 
sweeten  to  your  taste,  and  serve  it  hot.  It 
should  he  stirred  frequently  whilst  boiling; 
eggs  may  be  added  if  you  think  proper. 

RICE  CROQUETTES.  Wash  and 
scald  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice,  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  with  the  rind  of  a  lemon, 
shred  small,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powder- 
sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  little  cris|x-d  orange- 
llowei-s,  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  half  a  pint 
of  milk;  set  these  on  the  fire,  and  when  the 
rice  is  quite  soft,  add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
stir  them  in  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  them 
Ixiil;  pour  the  preparation  on  a  large  tin  or 
slab,  spread  it  equally;  let  it  cool,  and  then 
divide  it  into  small  equal  parts;  roll  these 
into  balls,  dip  them  into  an  omelet,  roll 
them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  a 
very  hot  pan.  As  soon  as  the  croquettes 
are  of  a  nice  color,  drain,  sprinkle  them 
with  powder-sugar,  and  serve  them. 


RICE 


175 


RICE 


RICE  CUPS.  Sweeten  a  pint  of  milk 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  boil  it  with  a 
Stick  of  cinnamon;  stir  in  sifted  ground 
rice  till  thick  ;  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  add 

the  welUlxMtfii  whites  of  three  i-j--;  stir  il 
again  over  ihe  (in-  (iir  two  or  three  minutes, 
then  put  it  into  tea-cups  previously  dipped  in 
cold  water;  turn  tliein  out  when  cold,  and 
pour  rouiul  them  a  custard  cream  made  with 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs;  place  upon  the  rice  a 
little  rvil  currant  jelly  or  r.isplierry  jam. 
This  dish  may  l>e  served  warm  or  cold;  if 
cold,  raspljerry  cream  or  custard  may  lx> 
poured  round  it. 

RICE      CUSTARDS      AVITHOUT 

CKi:\M.  One  tea-s|x>onful  of  ri<v-tl-.ur, 
a  pint  of  new  milk,  the  yolks  of  ih. 
a  ta!>le-s|XK>iifu!  of  ratafia  (or  tun  or  three 
laurel  leaves  lx>iled  in),  sugar  to  your  taste; 
mix  the  rice  very  smooth,  and  stir  it  with 
the  eggs  into  the  boiling  milk,  until  thick. 
Arrow-root  is  better  than  rice. 

RICK  FLUMMERY.  (1)  Boil  a  pint  of 
new  milk,  with  a  bit  of  lemon-|xvl  and  cin- 
namon: then  mix  just  sufficient  rice-flour, 
with  a  littk>  cold  milk  as  will  make  the 
whole  of  :i  u<>od  consistence,  sweeten  ac- 
cording in  taste,  flavor  with  a  little  pound- 
ed bitter  almond;  ln.il  it,  taking  care  not  to 
let  it  burn ;  pour  it  into  a  shape  or  pint  ba- 
sin, taking  out  the  spice.  When  the  flum- 
nierx  is  cold,  turn  it  into  a  dish,  and  serve 
with  cream,  milk,  or  custard,  all  round,  or 
tern  with  sweet  sauce  in  a  boat. 

RICK  II. I   MMKKV.  (2)  Boil  in  a  quart 

of  milk  five  ounces  of  sifted  ground  rice,  half 
an  ounce  of  bitter  almoiiits,  blanched  and 
pounded  with  two  labie-sixvoMluls.  of  rose- 
water;  sweeten,  and  stir  it  till  very  thick, 
ft  that  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan  is  seen, 
and  then  put  it  into  a  mould;  when  (jiiile 
cold  turn  it  out,  stick  over  it  sweet  almonds, 
nit  into  straws,  and  |x.ur  round  it  some  thick 
cream,  and  a  little  white  wine  and  sugar 
mixed  with  it. 

HICK   riMTTKKS.     15-.il  tlte    rice    in 

milk  with  so (Mixvdfr-sugar,  oranije-lloxxcr 

water,  a  pinch  oi  cniiiamon  jxiwiler,  ami  a 
little  Ixitler;  when  -|iiiie  soft  put  to  it  a 
Unison  of  volks  of  cu^s.  |x>nr  it  into  a  |KIII 
ti>  cool.  Make  your  pieparati-.n  into  lulls, 
alMHit  the  f'vu:  -if  an  e'_".',  dip  them  in  egg, 
fix  them,  sprinkle  them  with  su_ 
•erve. 


tlien  put  in  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  let 
it  cool.  Wlien  quite  cold,  stir  in  four  yolka 
and  four  whole  eggs,  more  if  the  rice  he 
very  thick;  Ixitter  a  mould  tightly,  put  the 
rice  into  it,  place  the  mould  in  hot  a.-hes,  so 
tliat  it  may  l>e  completely  envelojxxl  in  and 
covered  with  them;  in  half  an  hour  the  go- 
teau  will  I*'  done  enough;  then  turn  it  out, 
and  serve.  If  you  wish,  you  can  make  a 
souffle,  by  whipping  the  whites  of  six  eggs; 
like  other  souffles,  in  this  case  it  should  he 
served  in  a  silver  dish.  In  putting  the 
preparation  into  the  mould,  be  careful  not 
to  fill  it,  as  the  rice  would  swell  and  run 
over  the  edge. 

RICE  MILK.  Allow  an  ounce  of  rice 
for  each  person,  wash  it  thoroughly  in  warm 
water;  set  some  milk  on  the  fire,  and  when 
it  boils,  put  in  die  rice ;  continue  to  toil  it 
over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  often  for  two  or 
three  hours;  add  salt  or  sugar  according 
to  taste,  and  cinnamon. 

RICE  AND  MILK.  To  every  quart 
of  good  milk  all-.xv  two  ounces  of  rice; 
wash  it  well  in  several  waters;  put  it  with 
the  milk  into  a  closely-covered  saucepan, 
and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire;  when  it  boils 
take  it  off;  let  it  stand  till  it  be  cold,  and 
simmer  it  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter  be- 
fore sending  it  to  table;  and  serve  it  in 
a  tureen. 

RICE  PANCAKES.  Boil  half  a  pound 
of  rice  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  until 
quite  a  jelly;  as  soon  as  it  is  cold,  mix  it 
with  a  pint  of  cream,  eight  eggs,  a  little 
salt  and  nutmeg;  make  eight  ounces  of 
butter  just  warm,  and  stir  in  xvith  the  rest, 
adding  to  the  xvhole  as  much  butter  as  will 
make  the  batter  thick  enough.  They  must 
lx>  fried  in  as  small  a  quantity  of  lard  as 
possible. 

RICE  PASTE.     Rub  tln-ee  ounces  of 

lintter   well,  into   half  a  pound  of  ground 

rice,  moisten  it  with  xvater,  and  roll  it  out 
w  ith  a  little  Hour. 

RICE,  PYRAMIDS   OF.     Boil  some 

whole  rice,  make  it  up  into  the  form  of  pyr- 
amids about  three  inches  hi^h.  or  prew  it 
into  small  tin  frames  -if  that  shajx-;  take 
out  part  of  the  rice  at  the  bottom,  and  fill  the 
space  with  sausage,  or  rich  forcemeat ;  place 
them  in  a  dish,  take  off  the  frame .  and  pour 
round  tliein  some  rich  brown  gravy. 


ISKT..    <;  \TF.AU    OF.     Hoil  a   quart  RICE    SAVOURY.       Carefullx   wash 

of  cream,  add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  powdar-  and  pick  some  rice;    set    it    to   slew  very 

Wlgar,  and    three-quarters    of  a    (x.und    of  gently  in  a  little  veal  or  rich   mutton   broth, 

rice;   when   the   latter  is  quite   soft,  di.-x.lxe  add  an  onion,  a  blade  of  mace,  (M'pper,  and 

ill   it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  .-alt.     When  it   is  sxvelle-l   it  bhould  not  be 


RIS 


176 


ROLLS 


boiled  to  mash;  put  it  to  dry  on  the  shallow 
end  of  a  sieve  before  the  fire.  You  may 
serve  il  dry,  or  put  it  in  the  middle  of  a 
dish,  and  pour  the  gravy  round,  having  first 
heated  it. 

RICE  SNOW  BALLS.  Wash  and 
pick  half  a  pound  of  rice  very  clean,  put  it 
on  in  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of  water ;  when 
it  boils  let  it  boil  ten 'minutes,  drain  it  on 
a  sieve  till  it  is  quite  dry,  and  then  pare  six 
apples,  weighing  two  ounces  and  a  half  each. 
Divide  the  rice  into  six  parcels,  in  separate 
chillis,  put  one  apple  in  each,  tie  it  loose, 
and  boil  it  one  hour;  serve  it  with  sugar 
and  butter,  or  wine  sauce. 

RICE  SOUP.  (1)  Carefully  blanch 
some  well  picked  rice,  then  drain  it  on  a 
sieve ;  put  about  a  tea-cupful  in  the  soup-pot, 
with  one  head  of  celery,  and  a  quart  of 
consomme,  and  let  it  simmer  by  the  side 
of  the  stove  for  three  hours.  If  it  thickens 
too  much  add  more  consomme,  season  with 
a  little  salt ;  take  out  the  celery,  and  send 
the  soup  to  table. 

RICE  SOUP.  (2)  Wash  your  rice 
well  in  warm  water,  changing  it  frequently ; 
then  put  the  rice  into  a  saucepan,  with 
some  good  stock ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and 
leave  it  to  swell  for  half  an  hour,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil;  when  the  rice  has  imbibed 
all  the  stock,  add  a  sufficient  quantity  to 
cover  the  rice,  cover,  and  boil  it  slowly  for 
two  hours;  in  the  meantime  broil  two  or 
three  slices  of  beef,  and  pepper  and  salt  them 
well;  when  of  a  nice  dark  color,  throw 
them  into  the  rice  soup,  to  which  they  will 
impart  a  rich  flavor  and  a  fine  color. 

RICE,    WHOLE    IN    A    SHAPE. 

Wash  a  large  tea-cupful  of  rice  in  .several 
waters,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  cold 
water  to  cover  it,  and  when  it  boils,  add 
two  cupfuls  of  rich  milk,  and  boil  it  till  it 
becomes  dry;  put  it  into  a  shape,  and  press 
it  in  well.  When  cold,  turn  it  out,  and 
serve  with  preserved  black  currants,  rasp- 
berries, or  any  sort  of  fruit  round  it. 

RISSOLES.  (1)  Cut  puff  paste  with  a 
round  tin  cutter,  about  three  inches  wide; 
have  ready  some  cold  fowl  or  veal,  very 
finely  minced,  and  seasoned  with  a  little 
pounded  garlic,  grated  lemon-peel,  pepper, 
salt,  and  mace,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  moistened  with  a  little  good  gravy- 
Put  some  of  the  mince  upon  a  bit  of  the 
paste,  wet  the  edges,  and  lay  over  it  anoth- 
er bit;  press  il  gently  round  the  rim;  brush 
them  all  over  with  a  well-beaten  egg,  and 
strew  over  them  silted  bread  crumbs;  tV\ 
them  a  light  brown  in  boiling  clarified  Ixjcf 


dripping,  and  lay  them  upon  the  back  of  a 
sieve  before  the  fne  to  drain.  Serve  them 
in  a  napkin.  The  paste  may  be  cut  of  the 
size  of  a  large  breakfast  plate,  then  the 
mince  put  into  the  middle  of  it,  the  edges 
wet  all  round,  and  gathered  up  into  the 
form  of  a  pear,  brushed  over  with  < 
strewed  over  witli  bread  crumbs.  Served 
in  a  dish  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

RISSOLES.  (2)  Mi  nee  very  finely  some 
cold  roasted  veal,  and  a  small  bit  of  bacon; 
season  it  with  grated  nutmeg  and  salt; 
moisten  it  with  cream,  and  make  it  up  into 
good-sized  balls;  dip  them  into  the  yolks 
of  eggs  beaten  up,  and  then  into  finely -grat- 
ed bread.  Bake  them  in  an  oven,  or  fry 
them  of  a  light  brown  color  in  fresh  drip- 
ping. Before  serving,  drain  them  before 
the  fire  on  the  back  of  a  sieve.  Garnish 
with  fried  parsley. 

ROLLS.  (1)  Dissolve  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter in  one  pint  of  new  milk,  and  stir  it  into 
four  pounds  of  flour,  as  also  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  yeast,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  the 
well-beaten  whites  of  two  eggs;  cover  the 
pan  with  a  wanned  towel,  and  set  it  before 
the  fire  to  rise  for  half  an  hour,  then  work  it 
one  way  for  fifteen  minutes;  form  it  into 
rolls,  place  them  upon  tins,  and  let  them 
rise  for  ten  minutes  before  putting  them  into 
the  oven. 

ROLLS.  (2)  Warm  an  ounce  of  bolter  in 
half  a  pint  of  milk,  then  add  a  spoonful  arid 
a  half  of  yeast  of  small  Ijeer,  and  a  little  salt. 
Put  two  pounds  of  flour  into  a  pan,  and  put 
in  the.  above.  Set  it  to  rise  for  an  hour; 
knead  it  well ;  make  it  into  seven  rolls,  and 
hake,  them  in  a  quick  oven. 

ROLLS,  FRENCH.  (1)  Mix  rather  more 

than  an  ounce  of  coarse  salt  with  eight 
pounds  of  sifted  flour;  make  a  hole  in  the 
middle,  and  pour  in  alxjut  half  a  pint  of 
good  yeast,  the  well-beaten  whites  of  four 
ci^s,  a:ul  as  much  new  milk  warmed  as 
will  mix  it  to  a  middling  stiffness;  clap 
and  work  it  down  one  way  for  hall"  an  hour, 
but  do  not  knead  it;  cover  it  with  a  wann- 
ed towel,  and  let  it  rise  before  the  fire  for 
half  an  hour ;  take  off  the  surface,  which 
soon  becomes  hard,  and  put  it  aside  to  be 
made  into  a  roll;  work  and  clap  the  dough, 
form  it  into  rolls,  place  them  upon  tins,  and 
let  them  rise  for  ten  minutes ;  bake  them 
in  a  quick  oven. 

ROLLS,  FRENCH.  (2)  Rub  one  ounce 
of  butter  into  a  pound  of  llour;  then  add  to  it 
one  egg  beaten,  a  little  \east  that  is  not  bit- 
ter, and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  milk,  to  make 
a  dough  of  moderate  stiffness.  Beat  it  well, 


RO  S 


177 


SAO 


but  do  not  knead  it ;  let  it  rise,  and  bake  on 
tins. 

ROLLS,  FRENCH.  (3)  Warm  three 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
water,  with  a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  wal- 
nut, put  it  to  two  s|KK>nfuk  of  thick  yeast; 
put  this  into  tlie  middle  of  rather  more  than 
a  quart  of  flour,  mix  the  whole  together  to 
the  consistence  of  a  batter-|Midding,  adding 
more  tlour  if  necessary,  to  make  it  the  proper 
thickness;  strew  a  little  flour  over  it  from 
the  side.--,  and  if  the  weather  is  cold,  set  it  at 
a  little  di-t:tnre  from  (he  fire;  do  this  three 
hours  Ix-lore  it  i-  put  into  the  oven  ;  when  it 
breaks  a  good  deal  through  tl)e  tlour  and  ris-  I 
es,  work  it  into  a  light  |>as(e  with  more  warm 
milk  ami  water:  let  it.  lie  till  within  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  nf  setting  into  the  oven,  then 
work  them  lightly  into  rolls;  flour  a  tin, and 
drop  tin  >n  nn,  handle  them  as  little  as  possi- 
ble; act  them  before  the  fire.  Abouttwenty 
minutes  will  In-  sufficient  time  to  bake  them  ; 
put  a  little  salt  into  the  tlour.  Rasp  the 
rolls. 

HOI.I.S.    SHORT,   HOT.     Dry -before 

the.  lire  a  siilhcieul  quantity  of  (lour  to  nuke 

iny-rolls,  or  larger  if  you  like;   add 

to  it  an  cji;   well   k-alen,  a   little    silt.   tv\n 

spoonfuls  i.f  vea.-t.  ami  a  little  warm  milk; 

make  it  into  a  light   dough,  let   it  -land  In 

ill  night.     Bake  die  rolls  in  a  quick 


-\V  V.TER,  DOUBLE-DISTILLED. 

The  rose  generally  I-IH.M-H  for  this  purpose, 

is  the  e.imni'.n  r  dutihle)    ro.-e. 

but  the  while  ruse  i"  IICM  of  all.     Gather  the 

.  lwi>  hours  after  siin- 

M-  out  llie  ctlix,  and  depurate  tlte 

I  them  in  a  in:irlile  mortar  to  a 

paste,  and  leave  them  live  or  six  hours  in  the 

:  it  tliem  into  a  large   close 

eloth,  and  let  f  •  'ing  it   with  all 

I  Living  I iv  this  operation  ob- 

.    infuse  in   it  an 

equal  weight  nf  fresh  rose-leaves  for  tvvcntv- 
fourhi.ni.-;  :il  tin-  end  of  that  lime  put  the 
whole  into  tin-  alembic,  which  place  in  a 
pand-hath.  ain!  di>til  it  according  to  rule. 
(Sec  Disti/'iiiK)-  When  you  have  collect- 
ed aU.ut  an  ounce  "f  the  wftler,  uiiluti:  the 
.  and  if  that  which  i.-sues  from  the 
•till  is  as  odoriferous  as  that  which  proceeded 
lh>t,  e.iiitinii.-  tlm  Ufa-ration;  Uit  if  not,  col- 
lect it  int»  anotlier  vessel,  as  this  second 
and  must  lie  kept  sepa- 
rate from  the  first,  which  is  the  Essential 
Water.  Should  the  second  water  have  an 
unplca.-.inl  sini  II  (canx-d  In  the  application 
of  tiMi  much  heal),  expose  it  to  the  sun  for 
a  few  days.  COM  u-d  milv  by  a  itneet  of  paper. 
The  niuiust  care  is  necessary  in  distilling  this 


and  all  other  odoriferous  substances.  A  still 
more  powerful  essence  than  the  above  may  be 
procured  by  tlte  following  method:  —  Gather 
as  many  n  >M-  as  will  afford  thirty  pounds  of 
leaves,  pound  these  with  four  pounds  of  salt; 
when  pounded,  place  the  paste  in  a  vessel  in 
layers  with  salt  U-tween  each,  press  them 
closely,  cork  them  tight,  leave  the  vessel 
twelve  days,  and  then  di-til  as  usual. 

ROSE-WATER,  SINGLE.  Put  four 
pounds  of  rose-leaves  into  a  pan,  with  three 
quarts  of  river  water,  and  leave  it  tour-and- 
tvventy  lionrs  ;  then  (Mil  it  into  a  metal  alem- 
bic, and  distil  from  it  as  much  odoriferous 
water  as  you  can,  being  sure  to  stop  the  mo- 
ment you  observe  the  phlegm.  Take  off 
tlie  alembic,  throw  away  its  contents,  and 
rinse  it  out  well;  after  this,  fill  it  to  two- 
thirds  with  fresh-gatliered  rose-leaves,  on 
which  |HHir  the  MOW  drawn  rose-water; 
distil  this,  and  wlien  you  have  procured  as 
much  good  rose-water  as  it  will  vield,  let  the 
fire  go  out  gradually. 

ROUX.     Put  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 

.  -hake  it  about  till  dissolved,  when 
add  a  stilncient  quantity  of  situ  d  tlour.  to 
make  it  the  coii.-isience  of  thick  bouilli; 
ilieu  set  it  over  a  fierce  stove,  and  slir  it  un- 
til it  Ix-uins  to  take  color,  wlien  make  a  good 
lire  i.f  cinders,  place  the  roux  on  it,  tad  let 
it  stand  to  increase  in  color;  it  ought  to  be 
of  a  d.-ar  li_'lit  brown.  Set  it  by,  and  use  it 
-ion  may  require. 


,  WHITE.     Prepare  v  our  butter 

and  lloiir  as  al»ve,  place  it  on  a  moderately 
Ivated  stove,  stirring  it  coi»tantl\  till  very- 
hot;  be  careful  th.it  it  does  not  takecolorat 
all,  (br  the  whiter  it  is  the  more  desirable. 

RUSKS.  To  three,  ponnds  and  a  half 
of  flour  allow  lialf  a  pound  of  butter,  the 
same  quantity  of  |H.uiided  loaf  surar,  and 
five  s|>ooiifuLs  of  v-a.-l  ;  mix  lln>  flour  and 
tlier:  melt  the  butter  in  two  pints 
and  a  h  dfof  milk,  and  mix  it  with  the  lloiir, 
then  add  the  \.-.i-t  and  one  beaten  egg; 
work  it  well  together;  cover  it,  and  let  it 
Mand  lor  five  or  six  hours;  take  it  out  of 
the  pin,  and  f.rm  it  into  little  rolls;  place 
Ihi-iii  ti|(on  tins,  and  let  tin-in  rise  P>r  aU.ut 
an  hour;  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven,  and 
when  they  Ixx-onie  brown,  cut  them  through 
the  middle  or  into  three  ,-liees;  jxit  them 
again  into  the  oven  to  brown  and  crisp. 


SAGE  GARGLE.     Boil   quickly    in   a 
pint  of  water,  a  large  handful  of  sage  leave*  ; 


SAL 


178 


SAL 


cover  the  pan  closely,  and  when  reduced  to 
one-half,  strain  it;  when  cold,  mix  it  with 
the  same  quantity  of  Port  wine  and  of  vine- 
gar;  sweeten  it  with  honey,  or  with  brown 
sugar.  The  decoction  of  sage  may  be  used 
alone  as  a  gargle,  or  with  vinegar  and  hon- 
ey, without  the  Port  wine;  or  gargle  with 
vinegar  and  water. 

SAGO.  Let  it  soak  for  an  hour  in  cold 
water,  to  take  off  the  earthy  taste;  pour 
that  off,  and  wash  it  well ;  then  add  more 
water,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  berries 
are  clear,  with  lemon-peel  and  spice.  Add 
wine  and  sugar  according  to  taste,  and  boil 
all  up  together. 

SAGO  MILK.  When  well  cleansed, 
boil  it  slowly  with  new  milk.  A  small 
quantity  will  be  sufficient  for  a  quart  of  milk, 
it  swells  so  much,  and  when  done,  it  should 
Be  reduced  to  about  a  pint.  It  requires 
neither  sugar  nor  flavoring. 

SALAD  MIXTURE.  Endeavor  to  have 
your  salad  herbs  as  fresh  as  |xissiblc;  if  you 
suspect  they  are  not  "morning  gathered," 
they  will  be  much  refreshed  by  lying  an  hour 
or  two  in  spring  water;  then  fan-fully  wash 
and  pick  them,  and  trim  off  all  the  worm- 
eaten,  slimy,  cankered,  dry  leaves;  and, 
after  washing,  let  them  remain  awhile  in 
the  colander  to  drain :  lastly,  swing  them 
gently  in  a  clean  napkin:  when  properly 
picked  and  cut,  arrange  them  in  the  salad 
dish,  mix  the  sauce  in  a  soup-plate,  and  put 
it  into  an  ingredient  bottle,  or  pour  it  down 
the  side  of  the  salad  dish,  and  don't  stir  it 
up  till  the  mouths  are  ready  for  it. 

If  the  herbs  be  young,  fresh  gathered,  trim- 
med neatly,  and  drained  dry,  and  the  sauce- 
maker  ponders  patiently  over  the  follow  ing 
directions,  he  cannot  fail  obtaining  the  fame 
of  being  a  very  accomplished  salad-dresser. 

Boil  a  couple  of  eggs  for  twelve  minutes, 
and  put  them  in  a  basin  of  cold  water  for  a 
few  minutes;  the  yolks  must  be  quite  cold 
and  hard,  or  they  will  not  incorporate  with 
the  ingredients.  Rub  them  through  a  sieve 
with  a  wooden  sjnion,  and  mix  them  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  water,  or  line  double  cream ; 
llie.ii  adil  two  table-spoonfuls,  of  oil  or  melted 
butter;  when  these  are  well  mixed,  add,  .by 
degrees,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  or  powdered 
lump  sugar,  and  die  same  of  made  mustard  : 
when  these  are  smoothly  united,  add  very 
gradually  three  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar; 
rub  it  with  the  other  ingredients  till  thor- 
oughly incorporated  with  them;  cut  up  the 
white  of  the  egg,  and  garnish  the  top  of  the 
naiad  with  it.  Let  the  sauce  remain  at  the 
bottom  of  the  bowl,  and  do  not  stir  up  ihc 
salad  till  it  is  to  be  eaten:  we  recommend 
the  eaters  to  be  mindful  of  the  duty  of  masti- 


cation, without  the  due  performance  of 
which,  all  undressed  vegetables  are  trouble- 
some company  for  the  principal  viscera,  and 
some  are  even  dangerously  indigestible. 

SALAD,  WINTER.  Wash  very  clean 
one  or  two  heads  of  endive,  some  heads  of 
celery,  gome  mustard  and  cresses;  cut  them 
all  small,  add  a  little  shredded  red  cabbage, 
some  slices  of  boiled  Iwet-root,  an  onion,  if 
the  flavor  is  not  disliked ;  mix  them  together 
with  salad  sauce.  In  spring,  add  radishes, 
and  also  garnish  die  disli  with  them. 

SALINE  DRAUGHT.  Salt  of  worm- 
wood, twenty  grains;  lemon-juice,  a  table- 
spoonful;  water,  two  table-spoonfuls;  mag- 
nesia, twenty  grains ;  mix  it  in  a  tumbler, 
together  with  a  little  pounded  sugar,  and  take 
two  or  three  of  these  in  the  day. 

SALLY  LUNNS.  Take  three  quarts 
of  dried  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  yeast,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter,  melted  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  milk  to  dissolve  it,  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  and  a  little  salt:  make  these  in- 
gredients into  a  light  dough,  let  it  stand  be- 
fore the  fire  (covered),  for  an  hour  to  rise, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  The  above  may 
be  made  into  small  cakes. 

SALMON.  When  salmon  is  fresh  and 
good,  the  gills  and  flesh  are  of  a  bright  red, 
tl><  .-rales  clear,  and  the  whole  fish  is  stiff. 
Wlien  just  killed,  there  is  a  whiteness  be- 
tween the  flakes,  which  gives  great  firmness; 
by  keeping,  this  melts  down,  and  the  fish 
becomes  richer. 

SALMON,  BAKED.  Qean  and  cut 
the  fish  into  slices,  put  it  in  a  dish,  and  make 
the  following  sauce: — Melt  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter, kneaded  in  (lour,  in  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  <jra\y,  with  tun  glasses  01  Port  wine,  two 
table-s|>oonfuls  of  ketchup,  two  anchovies, 
and  a  little  cavenne.  When  the  anchovies 
are  dissolved,  strain  and  pour  the  sauce  over 
the  fish,  tie  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over 
the  dish,  and  send  it  to  the  oven. 

SM.MON,  BOILED.  Put  on  a  fish- 
kettle,  with  spring  water  enough  to  well 
<-over  i  he  salmon  you  are  going  to  dress,  or 
the  salmon  will  neither  look  nor  taste  well: 
(Ixiil  the  liver  in  a  separate  saucepan). 
When  the  water  boils,  put  in  a  handful  of 
salt;  take  off  the  scum  as  soon  as  it  rises; 
have  the  fish  well  washed ;  put  it  in,  and  if 
it  is  thick,  let  it  boil  very  gently.  Salmon 
requires  almost  as  much  boiling  as  meat; 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  a  pound  of 
fish :  but  practice  only  can  perfect  the  cpok 
in  dressing  salmon.  A  quarter  of  a  salmon 
will  take  almost  as  long  boiling  as  half  a 


SAL 


179 


SAL 


one:  you  must  consider  the  thickness,  not  the 
weight:  ten  pounds  of  line  full-grown  salmon 
will  !»•  dune  in  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Lob- 
ster Sauce. 

Obs. — The  thinnest  part  of  the  fish  is 
the  fattest ;  and  if  sou  have  a  "  grand  gour- 
mand" at  table,  ask  him  if  he  is  for  thick 
or  thin. 

N.  B. — If  you  have  any  left,  put  it  into 
a  pie-dish,  and  cover  it  with  an  equal  por- 
tion of  vinegar  and  pump. water,  and  a  little 
salt:  it  will  be  ready  in  three  days. 

SALMON,  BOILED  I.\  WINE.  Sea- 
son with  pepper  and  salt,  some  slices  of  ba- 
con, fat  and  lean  together,  a  pound  of  veal 
cut  thin,  and  a  |xiund  and  a  half  of  beef;  put 
these  into  a  deep  stewpan,  then  a  fine  piece 
of  fresh  salmon  cut  out  of  the  middle,  then 
pour  in  just  as  much  water  as  will  cover  it, 
and  let  it  simmer  over  a  gentle  fire  till  the 
salmon  is  almost  done,  then  |xmr  the  water 
away,  and  put  in  two  quarts  of  white  wine, 

with  an  onion  cut  in  slices,  some  thy ,  and 

sweet  maijoram,  picked  from  the  stalks;  let 
them  stew  sjeiuly,  and  while  they  are  doing, 
cut  a  sweetbread  into  thin  slices,  then  cut  the 
slices  across,  and  slew  them  in  a  - 
with  some  rich  gravy;  when  they  are  done 
enough,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  essence 
of  ham;  take  up  the  salmon,  lay  it  on  a  dish, 
and  -« i  \e  witli  the  sweetbread,  and  its' sauce 
poured  over. 

S  \LMON,  BOILED,  BERWICK    RE- 

CF.IPT.  The  tail  of  the  salmon  is  tirst  cut 
off  near  and  below  the  last  I'm,  the  tisli  is 
then  cm  up  the  back,  keeping  the  Ixmo  cm 

.  and  then  cut  lip  into  pieces  of  half 
a  jMUiid  each,  the  blood  \\ell  washed  out  of 
the  tish  in  culil  wavr,  but  the  wales  not  tol»- 
removed;  a  pickle  to  In-  maile  of  .-all  and 
water,  siroiii;  enough  to  Ix-ar  an  egg,  and, 
when  boiling,  the  fish  to  !»•  put  in,  ami  Imil- 
ed  very  quickly  for  lil'teen  minutes.  During 
the  boiling,  the  scum  to  U-  taken  ofl' carefully 

i- it  i  i.-«-<.  SaUCei; — lobster,  nick- 
ed Ixitlcr.  and  anchovy  san-e. 

-  i':i  •  haide-t  water  is  preferable 

for  boiiin.;  salmon. 

S  \l.\10\,  I'.OILKI),  lu.f  K.IPT  BY  AX 
ARKRUKKS  KI-HKKM  VN.  When  the  wa- 
ter is  hot,  put  salt  into  it,  and  stir  it  well; 

when  >ironU'  enough  to  (in 
cast  it  from  your  mouth,   it   will  do;   when 
the  water  boils  put  in  the  li.-h;    when  it  U.ils 
tn  twenty  minute-  lor  a  salmon,  am! 
•  '-tie.      NYheii    salmon    i.-   cni 
!i    thick,    let     tiiem    b-.iil     ten 
ininiites.      S.-rve   with    it  a   -anc.- 
the  liquor  the  li.-h  was  boiled  in. 

SAL.MO.N  SIT.AKS  15KOILED.  "Cut 


the  steaks  from  the  thickest  parts  of  the  fish 
nearly  an  inch  thick ;  butter  pieces  of  white 
paper;  fold  the  steaks  in  them,  and  broil 
tin-in  o\er  a  slow  fire  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes. 
Take  off  the  |>uper;  serve  and  garnish  with 
plenty  of  fried  parsley.  Dressed  in  this 
way,  tliey  may  be  put  round  salmon  boiled, 
in  slices.  Sauces; — melted  butter,  lobster, 
or  shrimp  sauce. 

SALMON,  FRESH  BROILED.    Clean 

the  salmon  well,  and  cut  it  into  -lice-  aU>nl 
an  inch  and  a  half  thick;  dry  it  thoroughly 
in  a  clean  cloth ;  rub  it  over  with  sweet  oil, 
or  thick  melted  butter,  and  spi  inkie  a  little 
salt  over  it:  put  your  gridiron  over  a  clear 
fire,  at  some  distance;  when  it  is  hot,  wipe 
it  clean;  rub  it  with  sweet  oil  or  lard;  lay 
the  salmon  on,  and  when  it  is  done  on  one 
side,  turn  it  gently  and  broil  the  other.  An- 
chovy sauce,  &c. 

Olt. — An  oven  does  them  best. 

SALMON  CAVEACH.  Boil  in  two 
quarts  of  vinegar  three  heads  of  shallots,  half 
an  ounce  of  whole  black  |x-p|>er,  three  cloves, 
two  blades  of  mace,  and  a  little  salt.  Fry 
the  fish,  cut  in  slices,  of  a  liiiht  brown  color 
in  fine  oil,  or  clarified  dripping;  put  them, 
when  cold,  into  a  pan,  pour  over  the  \  ine^ar 
and  spices,  and  put  on  the  top  eight  or  ten 
spoonfuls  of  oil.  Soles  may  be  done  in  this 
way,  only  lay  over  them  sliced  onions  instead 
of  shallots. 

SALMON,  DRIED  KIPPER.     Cutthe 

fish  up  the  hack,  and  takeout  the  bone;  wipe 
it  veiy  dean  with  a  cloth;  score  it,  and  put  a 
handful,  of  salt  on  each  side,  and  let  it  lie 
tor  thru'  days;  then  hang  it  up  to  dry,  and 
it  will  be  fit  lor  use  in  two  days,  and  eats 
well  with  a  little  pepper  put  over  it,  and 
broiled. 

SALMON,  DRIED, TO  DRESS.   Lajr 

.  |iii  t\\.i  (,r  three  hours,  tlien  broil 
it,  .-liaking  a  little  pepper  over  it.  Dried 
salmon  is  eaten  broiled  in  pa|XT,  and  only 
just  warmed  through;  e'_r^'  s-iticc  and  mashed 
potatoes  iitc  usually  served  with  it;  or  it 
may  be  boiled,  especially  the  bit  next  the 
liead. 

SALMON,  PICKLED.     (1)      Cut  a 

.-almoii  into  two  or  three  pieces,  put  it  in 
a  li-li-kettle,  and  set  it  on  the  fire  with  a 
Mifticient  quantity  of  water  to  cover  it,  am: 
plenty  of  salt;  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil, 
set  it  aside  to  simmer  very  gently  until  done; 
then  take  it  oil'  the  fire, 'and  let  it  stand  in 
the  liquor  until  cold,  take  it  out,  lay  the 
pieces  close  together  in  a  tub  to  pickle,  and 
M-.IT  them  live  anchovies,  a  small  quantity 
of  pounded  saltpetre,  and  a  quarter  of  a 


SAL 


180 


SAL 


pint  of  sweet  oil;  being  thus  prepared,  put 
the  (op  of  tlie  salmon  liquor  into  a  stewpan, 
to  which  add  the  same  quantity  of  white 
wine  vinegar;  put  it  on  the  fire  to  skim, 
and  boil  ii  for  two  or  three  minutes  ;  take  it 
off,  and  let  it  cool.  When  cold,  pour  it 
over  the  salmon  and  'tie  it  down ;  in  three 
days  turn  it,  and  in  a  week's  time  it  will 
be  fit  for  use ;  this  is  merely  in  a  small  way ; 
a  great  quantity  being  done  at  once,  requires 
neither  oil  nor  anchovies.  Serve  garnished 
with  fennel. 

SALMON,  PICKLED.  (2)  Cut  the  sal- 
mon into  pieces ;  boil  it  as  for  eating,  and  lay 
it  on  a  dry  cloth  till  the  following  day;  boil 
two  quarts  of  good  vinegar  with  one  of  the  li- 
quor the  fish  was  boiled  in,  one  ounce  of  whole 
black  pepper,  half  an  ounce  of  allspice,  and 
four  blades  of  mace.  Put  the  salmon  into 
something  deep,  and  pour  over  it  the  prepar- 
ed vinegar  when  cold.  A  little  sweet  oil 
put  upon  tlie  top  will  make  it  keep  a  . twelve- 
month. 

SALMON,  PICKLED.  (3)  To  a  quart 
of  liquor  the  fish  has  been  boiled  in,  put  rath- 
er more  than  half  a  pint  of  good  vinegar,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  whole  black  pepper;  boil 
it,  and  when  it  is  cold  pour  it  over  the  fish, 
previously  laid  in  a  deep  dish. 

SALMON,  PICKLED,  TO  DRESS. 
Soak  a  piece  of  pickled  salmon  all  night 
in  pump-water;  then  lay  it  on  a  fish-plate, 
and  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  three  spoon- 
fuls of  vinegar,  a  little  mace,  some  whole 
pejjpcr  in  a  bit  of  muslin,  an  onion,  a  nut- 
meg bruised,  a  pint  of  white  wine,  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs,  some  parsley,  lemon-peel, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour;  cover  the  stewpan  very  close,  and  let 
it  simmer  over  a  gentle  fire  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour;  then  lake  up  the  salmon,  lay  it  in 
a  dish,  keep  it  hot  liefore  the  fire;  let  the 
sauce  boil  till  it  is  of  a  proper  consistence; 
take  out  tlie  spice,  onion,  and  sweet  herbs, 
and  serve  tlie  sauce  over  die  fish. 

SALMON,  POTTED.  Take  off  the 
head;  cut  the  salmon  in  thick  slices;  wipe  it 
dry,  but  do  not  wash  it;  pound  half  an  ounce  of 
nutmeg,  mace,  and  cloves,  the  least  part  of 
cloves,  half  an  ounce  of  white  pepper,  and 
some  salt;  chop  fine  one  onion,  six  bay- 
leaves,  and  six  anchovies ;  season  each  slice ; 
put  it  into  a  pan,  with  very  thin  slices  of 
butter  between  each  layer;  bake  it,  when 
well  done ;  drain  off  the  butter,  and,  when 
cold,  pour  over  some  clarified  butler. 

SALMON,  TO  SALT.  Cut  the  fish  up 
the  back,  and  cut  out  llie  bone ;  wipe  il 
clean,  and  sprinkle  il  with  salt;  let  it  lay  a 


night  to  drain  off  the  liquor ;  wipe  it  dry ; 
rub  on  it  two  or  three  ounces  of  pounded 
saltpetre;  cut  it  into  pieces;  pack  it  close  in 
a  pot  with  a  thick  layer  of  salt  between  each 
layer  of  fish.  If  the  brine  does  not  rise  in 
a  few  days,  boil  a  strong  one,  and  pour  it, 
when  cold,  upon  the  salmon,  which  must 
always  be  covered  with  it. 

SALMON,  STEW.  Clean  and  scrape 
the  fish;  cut  it  into  slices,  and  stew  it  in  a 
rich  white  gravy.  A  little  before  serving, 
add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  soy,  one  of  es- 
sence of  anchovy,  and  a  little  salt,  some 
chopped  parsley  and  chives. 

SALMON,  SPICED.  Mix  together,  in 
the  proportion  of  one  third  of  salt-and-water  to 
one  pint  of  vinegar,  one  ounce  of  whole  black 
pepper,  and  one  ounce  of  cinnamon.  Cut 
the  salmon  into  slices,  and  Ixiil  it  in  this; 
when  cold,  pack  it  close  in  a  pan,  and  pour 
over  it  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in,  with  the 
spices,  so  as  to  cover  il  completely;  cover 
tlie  pan  closely,  to  exclude  tlie  air. 

SALMON,  MACKEREL,  SPRATS, 
HERRINGS,  &c.  PICKI.KD.  Cut  tlie  fish 
into  proper  pieces;  do  not  take  oil  the  scales  • 
make  a  brine  strong  enough  to  lirar  an  egg, 
in  which  boil  the  fish ;  it  must  lie  boiled  in 
only  just  liquor  enough  to  cmer  it;  do  not 
overboil  it.  When  the  fish  is  boiled,  lay  it 
slant iuj;ly  to  drain  off  all  the  liquor;  when 
cold,  [Kick  it  eluse  in  the  kits,  and  till  them 
up  with  equal  parts  of  the  liquor  the  salmon 
was  boiled  in  (having  first  well  skimmed  it), 
and  best  vinegar ;  let  them  rest  for  a  day; 
fill  up  again,  striking  the  sides  <>f  the  kit  with 
a  cooper's  adz,  until  the  kit  will  receive  no 
more ;  then  head  them  down  as  close  as  pos- 
sible. 

Obs. — This  is  in  the  finest  condition 
\\lien  fresh.  Some  sprigs  of  fresh-gathered 
young  fennel  are  the  accompaniment*. 

N.  13. — The  three  indispensable  marks 
of  tlie  goodness  of  pickled  s:ilmon  are,  1st, 
The  brightness  of  the  scales,  and  their  stick- 
ing fast  to  the  skin ;  2dly,  The  firmness  of 
tlie  flesh ;  and,  3dly,  Its  fine,  pale-red  rose 
color.  Without  these  it  is  not  fit  to  eat, 
and  was  either  stale  before  ii  was  pickled, 
or  has  been  kept  too  long  after. 

Tlie  above  was  given  us  as  the  actual 
practice  of  those  who  pickle  it  for  the  Lon- 
don market. 

N.  B. — Pickled  salmon  warmed  by  steam, 
or  in  its  pickle  liquor,  is  a  favorite  dish  at 
Newcastle. 

SALOOP.  Boil  a  little  water,  wine, 
lemon-peel,  and  sugar,  together;  then  mix 
with  a  small  quantity  of  ihe  powder,  pre- 
viously rubbed  smooth,  in  a  little  cold  water; 


SAL 


181 


SAN 


stir  the  wlmle  well  together,  and  boil  for  a 
few  minutes. 

SALPICON.  This  is  a  mixture  compo- 
sed of  various  article.-',  such  as  sweetbreads, 
fet  livers,  tongue,  ham,  champignons,  truf- 
fles, &c.,  pivxiously  dressed,  cut  into  dice, 
and  cooked  in  some  rich  since,  and 
widi  pepjier,  siilt,  nutmeg,  rlou-s,  shallots, 
sweet  herbs,  and  a  little  butter;  take  care 
that  all  the  artic •!>•.-  are  sufficiently  boiled  l«- 
tore  they  are  cm  up.  .Many  things,  such  a.s 
beetpuate,  fowl,  cock.-"-comlis,  ii 
most  an_s  article  you  please,  may  be  added  to 
the  alxiM'. 

S  \  I  .T,     Is  as   Plutarch   calls  it,  sauce 

"ice. 

Common  salt  is  more  relishing  than  IKIS- 
ket  >:ilt ;  it  should  l>e  pre|jared  tor  the  table 
by  drying  it  in  a  Dutch  oven  l*-fore  the  lire; 
then  put  it  mi  a  clean  |>a|>cr,  and  roll  it  with 
a  rolling  pin;  if  you  pound  it  in  a  inntar 
till  it  i>  ijuite  line,  it  will  look  as  well  as 
basket  s;ih. 

%*  Select  for  table-use  die  lumps  of 
salt. 

Obs. — Your  Kilt-box  mn-t  have  a  close 
co\cr.  ,ind  U-  kept  in  a  dry  place. 

SALT.  SI'ICKD.  Take  four  drachms 
of  grated  nutmeg,  the  same  of  cloves,  two 

of  whin-  |>rppiT,  two  of  allspice,  two  of 
mace,  two  of  bay-leaf,  two  of  basil,  and 
two  of  tin  me  (ilii-st-  three  latlcr  articles 
should  U-  dried  in  an  oven).  I'ut  them-  all 
into  a  mortar,  and  |»>iind  them  to  an  impal- 
pable |>owdi-r,  and  sift  it.  Take  a  pound 
of  line  white  ?ah,  dry  it  thoroughly  in  an 
oven,  or  stove,  pound  it  a-  line  as  |x^-il.l.-; 
sift,  and  mix  with  it  an  ounce  of  tlie  above 
mentioned  .-piii-:  amalgamate  them  thor- 
oughly, keep  llle  sj)ii-ed  salt  ill  a  tin  IKIX, 

which  will  shut  |NT|iftl\  close.  Use  it  in 
the  following  prn|M>rtion:  lour  drachms  to  a 
jmuilii  of  Ixmed  \i-al. 

SAI.TIM;  Mi:vr.  In  the  summer 
season,  e>|x-cially.  mi  at  is  In  ,|uvuily  sjxiiled 
by  the  '  ook  foi^eilini;  to  take  nut  tlie  ker- 
in  llie  ndiler  of  a  round  of  beef,  in 
tlie  fat  in  the  middle  of  the  round,  those 
a  1  mut  the  thick  cud  of  ilw-  Hank,  &c.:  if 
tlieK  are  not  taken  out,  all  the  salt  in  the 
world  will  not  keep  the  meat. 

Tlie  art  of  salting  meat  is  to  rub  in  tlie 
salt  thoroughly  and  e\enlv  into  every  part, 
and  to  till  all  ibe  holes  full  of  salt  whi-n-  llie 
kernel-  were  taken  out,  and  wliere  tlie  butch- 

ucrs  were. 

A  round  nf  la-el"  of  25  |x>unds  will  take  a 

pound  and  a  half  of  salt  to  be  rubtx-d   in  all 

•  In-  turned  and  nibbed 

every  day  witli  die  brine;  it  will  be  ready 
16 


for  dressing  in  four  or  five  days,  if  you  do 
not  wish  it  very  salt. 

In  summer,  the  sooner  meat  is  salted  after 
it  is  killed,  the  better;  and  care  must  be 
taken  to  defend  it  from  the  flies. 

In  winter,  it  will  eat  the  shorter  and 
tenderer,  if  kept  a  few  days  (according  to 
the  temperature  of  the  weather)  until  its 
fibre  lias  become  short  and  tender,  as  these 
changes  do  not  take  place  after  it  has  been 
acted  upon  by  the  salt. 

In  frosty  weather,  take  care  the  meat  is 
not  frozen,  and  warm  tlie  salt  in  a  frying- 
pan.  The  extremes  of  lieat  and  cold  are 
equally  unfavorable  for  the  process  of  salting. 
In  tlie  former,  tlie  meat  changes  before  the 
salt  can  ailed  it:  in  the  latter,  it. is  so  har- 
dened, and  its  juices  are  so  congealed,  that 
the  salt  cannot  penetrate  it. 

If  you  wish  it  red,  rub  it  first  with  salt- 
petre, in  tlie  proportion  of  half  an  ounce,  and 
tlie  like  quantity  of  moist  sugar,  to  a  pound 
of  common  salt. 

Von  may  impregnate  meat  with  a  very 
agreeable  vegetable  flavor,  by  pounding  some 
sweet  herbs,  and  an  onion  with  the  salt. 
You  mav  make  it  still  more  relishing  by  ad- 
ding a  little  ZEST  or  savory  spice. 

SALT  PORK,  BOILED.     See  Bacon. 

SAMPHIRE,  TO  DRY,  OR  PRE- 
SERVE. Take  it  in  bunches  :is  it  grows ; 
set  a  large  deep  stewpan  full  of  water  on  the 
fire;  as  soon  as  it  boils,  throw  in  a  little 
.-alt,  and  put  in  the  samphire;  when  it  looks 
of  a  fine  green,  remove  tlie  pan  directly  from 
die  fne,  and  take  out  llie  samphire  with  a 
lork;  lay  it  on  sieves  to  drain ;  w lien  cold, 
lay  it  on  earthen  plates,  strew  sugar  well 
over  it,  next  day  turn  them  on  a  sieve,  and 
strew  it  ajain  with  su^ar,  keep  turning  dai- 
ly until  it  is  dry;  take  care  tlie  stove  is  not 
too  hot. 

SAMPHIRE,  TO  PICKLE.  Lay  some 
samphire  that  is  green  in  a  pan,  sprinkle 
over  it  two  or  three  handfuls  of  salt,  and 
cover  it  with  spring  water,  and  let  it  lay  for 
twenty-four  hours;  then  put  it  into  a  large 
brass  saucepan ;  throw  in  a  handful  of  salt ; 
cover  the  pan  close,  and  set  it  over  a  Tery 
slow  fire;  let  it  stand  till  it  is  quite  green, 
and  crisp ;  then  take  it  off,  for  if  it  becomes 
soft  it  is  spoiled;  put  it  into  a  jar,  cover  it 
close,  and  when  it  U  cold,  tie  it  down. 

S\M)\\  ICIIES  FOR  TRAVEL- 
LERS. Spread  butter,  very  thinly,  upon 
die  upper  part  of  a  stale  loaf  of  liread  cut 

very  smooth,  and  then  cut  oil  die  slice;  now 
cut  oflTanoihrr  thin  slice,  but  spread  it  with 
butter  on  die  under  side,  without  which  pre- 
caution tlie  two  slices  of  bread  will  not  fit 


SAUCES 


182 


SAUCES 


one  another.  Next  take  some  cold  beet,  or 
ham,  and  cut  it  into  very  minute  particles. 
Sprinkle  these  thickly  over  the  butter,  and, 
having  added  a  little  mustard,  put  the  slices 
face  to  face,  and  press  them  together.  Last- 
ly, cot  the  whole  into  four  equal  portions, 
each  of  which  is  to  lie  wrap|)ed'in  a  separate 
piece  of  paper. 

SANDWICHES.  (1)  Cat  some  bread 
into  thin  slices,  pare  off  the  crust,  and  spread 
a  little  butter  on  them ;  cut  them  nicely  into 
oblong  pieces,  put  between  each  gome  bits 
of  fowl,  and  then  thin  bits  of  ham,  both  nice- 
ly trimmed;  add  a  little  mustard  and  .-alt. 
Any  cold  roasted  or  potted  meat  may  be  used. 
Serve  them  for  luncheon,  garnished  with 
curled  parsley. 

SANDWICHES,  (2)  Properly  prepar- 
ed, are  an  elegant  and  convenient  luncheon 
or  supper,  but  have  got  out  of  fashion,  from 
the  bad  manner  in  which  they  are  common- 
ly made :  to  cut  die  bread  neatly  with  a 
sharp  knife  seems  to  be  considered  the  only 
essential,  and  the  lining  is  composed  of  any 
offal  odds  and  ends,  that  cannot  be  sent  to 
table  in  any  other  form.  Whatever  is  used 
must  be  carefully  trimmed  from  every  bit  of 
skin,  gristle,  &e.  and  nothing  introduced 
but  what  you  are  alisolntely  certain  will  be 
acceptable  to  the  mouth. 

SANDWICHES,  CAKE.  Cut  a  sponge 
cake,  a  few  days  old,  as  for  bread  sand- 
w iches,  and  spread  strawberry  jam  or  cur- 
rant jelly  over  them. 

SAUCE.  (1)  Few  things  require  more 
care  than  making  sauce?,  as  most  of  tlieui 
should  be  stirred  constantly,  the  whole  atten- 
tion should  be  directed  to  them ;  the  better 
way  therefore,  is  to  prepare  the  sauces  before 
cooking  those  articles  which  demand  equal 
care;  they  may  be  kept  hot  in  the  bain- 
marie. 

Butler,  and  those  sauces  containing  eggs, 
ought  never  to  boil. 

The  thickest  stewpans  should  be  used  for 
making  sauces,  and  wooden-spoons  used 
for  stirring  them. 

SAUCE.  (2)  Mix  together  a  pint  of 
vinegar,  two  shallots  or  heads  of  garlic,  a 
teu-spoouful  of  cayenne,  three  large  table- 
spoonfuls  of  Indian  soy  or  mushroom  ketch- 
up, and  two  of  walnut  pickle.  Let  it  stand 
a  week,  shaking  it  daily;  strain,  and  bottle 
it  for  use. 


FOR  ANY  SORT  OF  MEAT. 

Boil  and  strain  three  table-spoonfuls  of  gra- 
vy, two  of  vinegar,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  large  sliced  onion. 


ANCHOVY.  Pound  three  an- 
chovies in  a  mortar  with  a  little  bit  of  but- 
ter; nib  it  through  a  double  hair  sieve  with 
the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon,  and  stir  it  into 
almost  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter  ;  or  stir 
in  a  table-spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy. 
To  the  above,  many  cooks  add  lemon-juice 
and  cayenne. 

APPLE.     (1)     Pare,  core,  and 

slice  some  apples;  boil  them  in  water,  with 
a  bit  of  lemon-peel;  when  tender,  mash  them; 
add  to  them  a  bit  of  butter  die  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  some  brown  sugar.  Heat,  and 
serve  in  a  sauce-tureen. 


APPLE.     (2)     Pare   and   core 

three  good->iwd  baking  apples;  put  them 
into  a  well-tinned  pint  saucepan,  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water;  cover  the 
saucepan  close,  and  set  it  on  a  trivet  over  a 
slow  fire  a  couple  of  hours  before  dinner 
(some  apples  will  take  a  long  time  slewing, 
others  will  be  ready  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour): 
when  the  apples  are  done  enough,  pour  off 
the  water,  let  them  stand  a  few  minutes  to 
get  dry ;  then  beat  them  up  \\  ith  a  fork, 
with  a  bit  of  butter  about  as  biff  ns  a  nut- 
meg, and  a  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  sugar. 
N.  B. — Some  add  lemon-peel,  grated,  or 
minced  fine,  or  Ixiil  a  bit  with  the  apples. 

ATTELETS.     Take  of  finely- 
minced  jwrsley,  mushrooms,  and  shallots,  a 
table-spoonful  each  ;  fry  them  with  a  little  but- 
ter, and  then  dredge  in  a  little  flour;  moisten 
the  mixture  with  some  good  stock,  season 
it  with  |X'|>per  and  salt,  and   boil  it   till   it 
begins  to  thicken ;   then   take  it  off  the  tire, 
and   add   the   welUjeaten  yolks   of  two   or 

.     Stir  it  well  all   the  time   it   is 
making. 


BEEF-GRAVY,    or    Brotcn 

Sauce  for  Ragout,  Game,  Poultry, 
Fish,  4'C.  If  you  want  gravy  immediately, 
see  Potato  Soup,  or  (ilaze.  If  yon  have 
time  enough,  furnish  a  thick  and  well-tinned 
stewpan  with  a  thin  slice  of  sail  |x>rk,  or  an 
ounce  of  butter,  and  a  middling-sized  onion; 
on  this  lay  a  pound  uf  nice,  juicy  gravy 
beef,  (as  the  object  in  making  gravy  is  to 
extract  the  nutritious  succulence  of  the  meat, 
it  must  lx:  beaten  to  comminute  the  contain- 
ing vessels,  and  scored  to  augment  the  sur- 
face to  the  action  of  the  water) ;  cover  the 
stewpan,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire;  when 
the  meat  begins  to  brown,  turn  it  about, 
and  let  it  get  slightly  browned  (but  take 
care  it  is  not  at  all  burned):  then  pour  in  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  lioiliiig  water;  set  the 
pan  on  the  fire;  whin  it  boils,  carefully 
catch  tlie  scum,  and  then  put  in  a  crust  of 
bread  toasted  brown  (don't  burn  it)  a 


SAUCES 


183 


SAUCES 


«prig  of  winter  savory,  or  lemon  thvme  and 
parsley — a  roll  of  thin  cut  lemon-|>eel,  a  doz- 
en berries  of  allspice.  :nnl  a  dozen  of  black 
pepper.  Cover  tin-  stew|»n  close,  and  let 
it  stew  very  gently  tor  about  tun  hours, 
then  strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin. 
Now,  if  you  wish  to  thicken  it,  set  a  clean 
stewpan  mer  a  .-low  lire,  with  about  an 
ounce  of  Ixitter  in  it;  when  it  is  melted, 
dredge  to  it,  by  degrees,  as  inucli  flour  as 
will  dry  it  up,  stirring  them  well  together; 
when  thoroughly  mixed,  pour  in  a  little 
gravy — stir  il  well  together,  and  add  the  re- 
mainder by  degrees;  set  it  over  the  fire,  let 
it  simmer  gently  fur  fifteen  minutes  longer, 
skim  off  the  fat,  kc.  as  it  rises;  when  it  i.s 
about  as  tliick  us  cream,  squeeze  it  through 
a  tamis.  or  line  .-ieve — and  you  will  have  a 
fine  rich  Brown  Sauce,  nt:i  very  moderate 
expense,  and  without  much  trouble. 


FOR  ROILED  BEEF.     Mince 

a  large  onion,  parboil   it,  and  drain  off  the 

'.it  the  onion  into  a  saucepan,  with 

a    table-spoonful  of  finely-chopped   parsley, 

.v,  and  one  ounce  of  Initter 

with   it    little    lloiir.     Let    it    boil 

a   minutes,   and  add  a  s|XH>nful  of 

cut  rajicrs,  which  must  Iw  thoroughly  heat- 

ed  before  the  sauce  is  served. 


BROW.V.     Take   a   pound    or 

two  of  ste.iks,  two  or  three  pounds  of  veal, 
some  pickings  of  fowl,  carrots,  and  onions, 
put  all  then-  into  a  saucepan  with  a  glass 
n|"  water,  and  set  it  on  a  brisk  lire;  when 
..iic:-,  put  it  on  a 

slow  lire,  that  the  ji-IK  may  lake  color  with- 
out burning;  and  :is  soon  as  it  is  brown, 
moi.-tcii  it  with  stock  (i-r  water),  add  a 
bunch  of  pi. 

salt  it    well,  and   set  it  (in  tile  fire  I": 
hours,  then  .-iiai'i;  dilute  a  little  roux  with 
your  liquor,  ami  I, nil  it  an  hour  mer  a  gentle 
lire,  take  oil'  all  the  fat,  and  run  il  through 
a  bolting. 

BO\.\E    DOUCHE,   FOR 

GOOSE,  DUCK,  OR  R»A-I   P..KK.     .Mix 

-j* lul  of  mad -[XMin- 

ful  of  salt,  and  a  l'<-u  v.mis  of  caymie,  in  a 
large  wine-glas.-liil  of  d  nvi  ,,r  Port  wine; 
jKiur  it  into  the  goose  by  a  slit  in  the  apron 
ju.-t  More  serving  up  ;  or,  as  ail  the  com- 
pany ma\  not  like  it,  stir  it  into  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  thick  melted  butter,  or  thicken- 
ed gravy,  and  send  it  up  in  a  Ix>at.  A  fh- 
vnrite  reli.-h  lor  roast  |xnk  or  u'eese,  N 
two  uunci  -  "I  l>  av.  ounce 

"I  |Vi>!,  I,. ui.  ii-|«-el  pared  thin,  -ami'  of  sill, 
minced  eschalot,  and  lialf  a  drachm  of 

me  l»'|i|»-r,  ditto  of  cilric  ac-id,  steeped 
for  a  iWlniJht  in  a  pin!  >ke  it 


up  well  every  day ;  let  it  stand  a  day  to  set- 
tle, and  decant  the  clear  liquor;  bottle  it, 
and  cork  it  close  ;  a  table-spoonful  or  more 
in  a  quarter  pint  of  gravy,  or  melted  butter. 

BREAD.    (1)  Boil,  in  a  pint  of 

water,  the  crumb  of  a  French  roll  or  of  a 
slice  of  bread,  a  minced  onion,  a 
whole  pepper.  When  the  onion  is  tender, 
drain  off  the  water,  pick  out  the  jiepper- 
corns,  and  nib  the  bread  through  a  sieve; 
then  put  it  into  a  .saucepan,  with  a  gill  of 
cream,  a  bit  of  butter,  and  a  little  salt. 
Stir  it  till  it  boil,  and  serve  it  in  a  sauce- 
tureen. 


BREAD.     (2)     Mix,  in  rather 

more  than  half  a  pint  of  milk  or  water,  a 
slice  of  grated  bread,  a  dessert-spoonful  of 
potato  Hour,  a  small  onion  pounded,  a  bit  of 
butter  the  size  of  a.  walnut,  a  few  whole 
pepper  corns,  a  little  m:u-e,  and  salt.  Boil 
it  well,  pick  out  the  spices,  and  mix  it 
smooth.  Serve  <|iiite  hot. 

BREAD.  (3)  Put  a  small 

tea-cupful  of  bread  crumbs  into  a  Mrwpan, 
pour  on  it  as  much  milk  as  it  will  soak  up, 
and  a  little  more;  or  instead  of  the  milk, 
take  the  giblets,  head,  neck,  and  legs,  &c. 
of  the  jxmltry,  &c.  and  stew  them,  and 
moisten  the  bread  with  this  liquor;  put  it  on 
the  lire  with  a  middling-sized  onion,  and  a 
down  Ijerrit  s  of  jx-pper  or  allspice,  or  a  fit- 
tie  mace;  let  it  Ixiil,  then  stir  it  well,  and 
let  it  simmer  till  it  is  quite  stiff,  and  then 
put  to  it  aUuit  two  tiible-s|xKinfuls  of  cream 
ur  melted  butter,  or  a  little  «.K.d  brolh; 
take  out  (he  onion  and  |>epper,  and  it  is 
ready. 

Obi. — This  is  an  excellent  accompani- 
ment to  game  and  ]>oultry. 

FOR  BOILED  MEAT,  GAME, 

AND  POULTHV.  Bruise  ihr:  yolks  of  two 
hard-boiled  eggs  with  a  little  water  and  salt ; 
bone  one  anchovy,  and  mince  it,  a  small  on- 
ion, I  wo  shallots,  a  little  parsley  and  tarra- 
oid  a  few  capers;  mix  them  with  the 
egg,  add  a  table-s|x>onful  of  fine  oil,  a  little 
mustard,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon,  and 
one  ol  tarragon  \inrgar;  mix  all  exceed- 
ingly well  together,  (Hit  it  into  a  -auce-tu- 
reen,  and  serve  it  uiih  the  broil;  or  it  may 
be  served  with  cold  u-al. 


• —  CAPER.  To  make  a  quarter 

of  a  pint,  take  a  table-spoonful  of  capers, 
and  two  tea-s|xionfnls  of  vinegar. 

The  present  liishion  of  cutting  capers  is 
to  mince,  one-third  of  in.  m  very  line,  and 
divide  the  others  in  half;  put  them  into  a 
i|iiarler  of  a  pint  of  mrlled  butler,  or  good 
Ihii-kened  ^.a\\;  >iir  them  die  same  way 


SAUCES 


184 


SAUCES 


as  you  did  the  melted  butter,  or  it  will  oil. 
Some  boil,  and  mince  fine  a  few  leaves  of 
parsley,  or  chervil,  or  tarragon,  and  add 
these  to  the  sauce ;  others  tlie  juice  of  half 
a  Seville  orange,  or  lemon. 

Keep  the  caper  bottle  \c\y  closely  corked, 
and  do  not  use  any  of  the  caper  liquor:  if 
tjie  capers  are  not  well  covered  with  it,  they 
will  immediately  spoil;  and  it  is  an  excel- 
lent ingredient  in  hashes,  &c.  The  Dutch 
use  it  as  a  fish  sauce,  mixing  it  with  melted 
butter. 

CARRIER.      Scrape  a   small 

stick  of  horse-radish,  cut  an  onion  or  two 
in  thin  slices,  put  these  into  a  sauce-tureen 
with  a  little  vinegar  and  whole  pepper;  set 
the   tureen    in   die   dripping-pan    under   a 
shoulder  of  mutton  whilst  roasting ;  serve 
this  sauce  quite  hot  with  die  meat. 

CELERY,  WHITE.    Pick  and 

wash  two  heads  of  nice  white  celery;  cut  it 
iuto  pieces  about  an  inch  long;  stew  it  in  a 
pint  of  water,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  till 
the  celery  is  tender ;  roll  an  ounce  of  butter 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  flour;  add  this  to 
half  a  pint  of  cream,  and  give  it  a  boil  up. 

CELERY  PUREE,  for  boiled 

Turkey,  Veal,  Fowls,  fyc.  Cut  small 
half  a  dozen  heads  of  nice  white  celery  dial 
is  quite  clean,  and  two  onions  sliced;  put 
in  a  two-quart  stewpan,  with  a  small  lump 
of  butter :  sweat  them  over  a  slow  fire  till 
quite  tender,  then  put  in  two  spoonfuls  of 
nour,  half  a  pint  of  water  (or  beef  or  veal 
broth),  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  little  cream  or 
milk ;  boil  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  pass 
through  a  fine  hair  sieve  with  the  back  of  a 
spoon.  If  you  wish  for  celery  sauce  when 
celery  is  not  in  season,  a  quarter  of  a  drachm 
of  celery  seed,  or  a  little  essence  of  celery, 
will  impregnate  half  a  pint  of  sauce  with  a 
sufficient  portion  of  die  flavor  of  the  vege- 
table. 

CHESTNUT,  FOR  ROAST 

TURKEY.  Scald  a  pound  of  good  chest- 
nuts in  hot  water  for  five  minutes,  skin  diem, 
and  stew  them  slowly  for  two  hours  in  white 
stock,  seasoned  and  diickened  with  butter 
and  flour.  Cut  a  pound  of  pork  sausages 
into  bits  alxmt  an  inch  long,  dust  them  with 
flour,  and  fry  them  a  light  brown ;  lay  diem 
into  the  dish  on  which  die  turkey  is  to  be 
served,  and  pour  the  chestnuts  and  sauce 
over  them.  Some  people  prefer  die  fried 
sausages  stewed  a  little  with  the  chestnuts ; 
but  diis  mediod  makes  die  sauce  of  a  darker 
color. 

CURRANT,  FOR  VENISON. 

Boil  in  water  for  a  few  minutes  an  ounce  of 


nicely-cleaned  currants,  add  direc  table* 
s|xx>nfuls  of  grated  bread,  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a  walnut,  four  cloves,  and  a  glass 
of  Port  wine;  stir  it  till  it  boil,  and  serve  it 
hot. 

CURRY,  Is  made  by  stirring  a 

sufficient  quantity  of  curry  powder,  into  gra- 
vy or  melted  butter,  or  onion  sauce,  or  onion 
gravy.  The  compositions  of  curry  powder, 
and  the  palates  of  those  who  eat  it,  vary  so 
much,  that  we  cannot  recommend  any  spe- 
cific quantity.  The  cook  must  add  it  by 
degrees,  tasting  as  she  proceeds,  and  take 
care  not  to  put  in  too  much. 

DUTCH.    (1)  Beat  up  the  yolks 

cf  six  ri«i3,  mix  in  a  little  flour,  cream,  salt, 
and  lemon  vinegar.  Strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  add  a  small  piece  of  fresh  Ixitter,  two 
blades  of  pounded  mace,  and  a  little  pepper. 
Put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  till  it 
is  almost  boiling. 


DUTCH.  (2)  Put  into  a  stewpan 

a  tea-spoonful  of  flour,  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
elder  vinegar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh 
butter,  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  and  a  little 
salt ;  keep  stirring  it  over  die  fire,  and  work 
it  well  till  thick.  If  it  be  not  curdled,  it 
will  not  require  to  be  strained.  Season 
with  pepper. 

DUTCH,  FOR  FISH  OR  BOIL- 
ED FOWLS.  Mix,  with  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  one  tea-spoonful  of  flour,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water,  tlio  same 
quantity  of  vinegar,  and  one  well-beaten 
egg;  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  over 
the  fire  till  it  be  quite  hot,  but  do  not  allow 
it  to  boil. 


EGG.  (1)  This  agreeable  accom- 
paniment to  roasted  poultry,  or  salted  fish, 
is  made  by  putting  three  eggs  into  boiling 
water,  and  boiling  diem  for  alx>ut  twelve 
minutes,  when  they  will  be  hard;  put  them 
into  cold  water  till  you  want  them.  This 
will  make  the  yolks  firmer,  and  prevent 
their  surface  turning  black,  and  yon  can  rut 
diem  much  neater:  use  only  two  of  the 
whites,  cut  the  whiles  into  small  dice,  tlie 
yolk?  into  bits  aliout  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
square;  put  them  into  a  sauce-boat ;  pour 
to  them  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  and 
stir  them  together. 

If  you  are  for  superlative  egg  sauce, 
pound  the  yolks  of  a  couple  of  eggs,  and  rub 
them  with  the  melted  butter  to  thicken  it. 

N.  B. — Some  cooks  garnish  salt  fish  with 
hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  half. 

EGG.     (2)     Boil  three  or  four 

eggs  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  put  them 


SAUCES 


185 


SAUCES 


into  cold  water,  take  off  the  shells,  cut  three 
of  tin-  whites  and  four  yolks  into  small 
pieces,  mix  them  with  melted  butler,  and 
heat  it  well. 


ESCHALOT.     Take   fmr  es- 
chalots. ;uiil  make  it  in  the  same  manner  as 
garlir  since.     Or,  you  may  make  this  sauce 
more  e\lem|x>raiieoiisly  by  putting:  two  table- 
spoonl'uls  of  eschalot  wine,  ami  a  sprinkling 
of  |x-p|x-r  ami  nail,  into  (almost)  half  a  pint 
of  thick  melted  butter.     This  is  .m  excellent 
sauce  for    chops  or  steaks;   many  are  very 
fond   of  it  with   roasted   or   boiled   meat, 
poultry,  &c. 

ESCHALOT,    FOR    BOIL- 
ED  Ml  TT<>\.     This   is  a  very  frequent 
and  satisfactory   .-nlistitute  for  raper  sauce. 
Miner  (''in  e-.-lialots  \cry  line,  and  put  them 
into  a  small  sauce|>an,  with  almost  half  a  pint 
of  the  liquor  the  mutton  was  I  mi  led  in:   let 
them  hod  iij>  tor  live  minutes;    then  put  in  a 
tablc-s|XM>nfiil  of  vinegar,  a  quarter  tea-spoon- 
ful of  jx-pper,  a  little  sail,  and  a  bit  of  butter 
(as  big  as  a  walnut)  rolled  in  tlonr;  shake 
togetlier  till  it  boils. 

ESCAVEKE    SAUCE,    FOR 

COLD  GAME,  FOWL,  OR  MEAT.     Beat, 

ina  marble  mortar,  tin-  following  ingredients: 
five  (loves  of  garlic,  six  cloves  of  shal- 
lot, a?  much  pounded  ginger  as  will  lie  upon 
a  .-i\|»-iict-,  and  the  same  of  cayenne,  a  ta- 
ii'ul  of  coriander  seed,  and  a  little 
salt.  1'oiir  upon  ilu-m,  lx>iling  hot,  a  pint 
of  tlie  liest  white  wine  \  literal  ;  add  the  peel 
of  a  lemon,  cut  very  thin.  When  cold,  put 
the  whole  into  a  bottle,  cork  it  tightly,  and 
shake  it  well  before  using. 


FOR  FISH.    (1)   The  melted 

r  lish.  should  l«-  thick  enough  to  ad- 
bere  to  llie  fish,  and,  therefore,  must  be  of  the 
thickness  of  light  batter,  at  it  is  to  be  dilut- 
ed with  essence  of  ancho\y,  soy,  mushroom 
ketchup,  cayenne,  or  Chili  vinegar,  lemons 
or  lemon-juice,  or  artificial  lemon-juice,  &c.  j 
which  are  e\|>ected  al  all  well-served  tables,  j 
Cooks,  who  are  jealous  of  the  reputation  of  : 
their  i.i-ie,  and  housekeepers  who  value  their 
healih,  will  prepare  these  articles  at  home: 
there  are  qnin-  as  many  reasons  why  they 
nhould,  as  UH-I-C  are  for  the  preference  usually 
l_'H'"i  in  home-baked  bread. and  home-brew- 
fd  lx-»T.  The  liver  of  tin-  lish  pounded  and 
mixed  with  parsley  and  butter,  with  a  little 
lemon-juice,  ike.  is  an  elegant  and  inoffensive 
relish  to  lish. 


!•'<  )R  FISH.  (2)  Two  wine-gbss- 

i,  and  two  of  walnut  pickle,  four  of 
mushroom  ketchup,  half  a  dozen  anchovies, 
|v>uiidcd,  the  like  number  of  eschalots  sliced 


and  pounded,  a  table-spoonful  of  *oy,  and 
half  a  drachm  of  cayenne  pepper ;  let  them 
simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes ;  strain  it,  and 
when  cold,  put  it  into  bottles,  well  corked, 
and  sealed  over,  it  will  keep  for  a  considera- 
ble time. 

Obs. — This  is  commonly   called   Quin's 
sauce. 


FOR  FISH.  (3)  A  table- 
spoonful  of  anchovy  juice,  one  of  soy,  and 
two  of  mushroom  ketchup,  mixed  in  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  melted  butter. 


FOR  FISH.  (4)  Three  ancho- 
vies and  an  onion  chopped,  and  a  small  hit 
of  horseradish  boiled  in  some  stock,  then 
strained,  and  thickened  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ler rolled  in  flour. 

FOR  FISH.    (5)   Boil  in  half  a 

pint  of  water  one  or  two  anchovies,  two 
cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  bit  of  lemon-peel, 
a  few  peppercorns,  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  Port  wine;  strain  and  thicken  it  with  a 
piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour. 

FOR  FISH.   (6)  Mix  well  with 

two  ounces  of  melted  butter,  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  essence  of  anchovies,  and  lemon 
pickle,  a  table-spoonful  each,  a  tea-spoonful 
of  soy,  and  a  little  cayenne.  Boil  it  before 
serving. 

FOR  FISH.  (7)  Chop  two  dozen 

of  whole  ancho\ie>,  mix  with  them  half  a 
pint  of  anchovy  liquor,  two  shallots  cut  small, 
and  three  pints  of  Tort  wine,  one  of  vinegar, 
one  lemon  sliced,  one  handful  of  scraped 
horseradish,  and  ten  blades  of  mace,  one 
nutmeg,  twelve  peppercorns,  six  cloves,  all 
bruised,  and  one  table-spoonful  of  floor  of 
mustard.  Boil  these  togetlier  about  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes;  when  cold,  strain  and 
bottle  it,  waxing  the  corks.  It  will  keep 
good  a  year.  A  table-spoonful  improves 
oyster  sauce,  and  that  quantity  is  sufficient 
for  a  sauce-tureen  of  melted  butter. 

FOR  FISH.  (8)  A  quart  of  Port 

wine,  half  a  pint  of  best  vinegar,  one  pound 
of  bruised  anch»\ie-,  one  ounce  of  mace  and 
one  of  cloves,  half  an  ounce  of  pepper,  one 
large  onion,  and  the  peel  of  one  lemon;  boil 
all  these  ingredients  together,  over  a  slow 
fire,  till  a  pint  is  wasted;  then  strain,  and 
bottle  it,  and  keep  it  closely  stopped. 

FISH  < )i;  Mi:  \T  SAUCE, TO  MAKE 
A  QUART  BOTTLE  OF.  To  half  a 
bottle  of  vinegar  put  one  ounce  of  cayenne, 
two  cloven  of  garlic,  one  table-spoonful  of 
soy,  two  of  walnut,  and  two  of  mushroom 
ketchup.  Let  it  stand  six  days,  shaking  it 


SAUCES 


186 


SAUCES 


frequently,  then  add  the  remaining  half  of 
the  bottle  of  vinegar;  let  it  stand  another 
week,  strain,  and  put  it  into  small  bottles. 

WHITE,  FOR  FISH.    Four 

anchovies  chopped,  two  glasses  of  white 
wine,  a  large  one  of  vinegar,  an  onion  stuck 
with  three  cloves,  and  cut  into  quarters ;  let 
all  these  simmer  till  the  anchovies  dissolve; 
strain  it,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  kneaded  in  a  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
When  it  has  melted,  stir  in  gradually,  one 
way,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  taking  care  that 
it  do  not  boil.  When  thoroughly  heated, 
serve  in  a  sauce-tureen. 


LIVER,  FOR  FISH.    Boil  the 

liver  of  the  fish,  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar 
with  a  little  flour ;•  stir  it  into  some  broth, 
or  some  of  the  liquor  the  fish  was  boiled  in, 
or  melted  butter,  parsley,  and  a  few  grains 
of  cayenne,  a  little  essence  of  anchovy,  or 
soy,  or  ketchup;  give  it  a  boil  up,  and  rub 
it  through  a  sieve:  you  may  add  a  little  lem- 
on-juice, or  lemon  cut  in  dice. 


PINK,  FOR  FISH.    Put  into  a 

pan,  or  wide-mouthed  jar,  one  quart  of  good 
vinegar,  half  a  pint  of  Port  wine,  half  an 
ounce  of  cayenne,  one  large  table-spoonful 
of  walnut  ketchup,  two  ditto  of  anchovy 
liquor,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cochineal, 
and  six  cloves  of  garlic.  Let  it  remain  forty 
hours,  stirring  it  two  or  three  times  a-day; 
run  it  through  a  flannel  bag,  and  put  it  into 
half-pint  bottles. 

FOR  PIKE.     Mix  with  a  pint 

of  cream  a  table-spoonful  of  anchovy  sauce, 
the  same  of  soy,  and  two  of  ketchup,  a 
piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour;  put  it  into  a 
saucepan,  and  stir  it  one  way  till  nearly 
boiling. 

WHITE,  FOR  PIKE.    Simmer 

till  half  wasted,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  white 
wine,  one  of  vinegar,  half  a  small  onion,  and 
some  grated  nutmeg ;  add  a  piece  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour,  then  a  small  tea-cupful  of 
cream;  heat  it  thoroughly,  stirring  it  all  the 
time,  and  taking  care  that  it  do  not  boil. 

GREEN  GOOSEBERRY.  Boil 

gome  green  gooscl>erries  in  water  till  soft, 
and  sweeten  them  with  brown  sugar. 


GOOSEBERRY.    Top  and  tail 

them  close  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  and  scald 
half  a  pint  of  green  gooseberries;  drain  them 
on  a  hair  sieve,  and  put  them  into  half  a 
pint  of  melted  butter.  Some  add  grated 
ginger  and  lemon-peel,  and  the  French,  min- 
ced fennel;  others  send  up  the  gooteberriea 
whole  or  mashed,  without  any  butler,  &c. 


GOOSE   STUFFING.      Chop 

very  fine  an  ounce  of  onion  and  half  an  ounce 
of^green  sage  leaves ;  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  four  s|x>onftils  of  water;  simmer 
gently  for  ten  minutes;  then  put  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper  and  salt,  and  one  ounce 
of  fine  bread  crumbs;  mix  well  together; 
then  pour  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  broth, 
or  gravy,  or  melted  butter,  stir  well  togeth- 
er, and  simmer  it  a  few  minutes  longer. 


GRANDE.  Take  three  or  fonr 

slices  iVurn  the  under  part  of  a  knuckle  of 
veal,  and  put  them  into  a  larire.  stewpan 
with  two  ladleful.s  of  consomme,  set  it  on  a 
fierce  (ire,  taking  care  to  skim  it  as  much  as 
possible,  and  with  a  cloth  wipe  away  all 
that  adheres  to  the  inside  of  the  stewpan  ; 
when  the  consomme  is  reduced,  prick  the 
slices  with  a  knife  to  let  out  the  gravy ;  then 
set  the  stewpan  on  a  slow  fire,  that  the  meat 
and  glaze  may  adhere  together,  and  as  soon 
as  the  latter  is  of  a  clear  light  color,  take  it 
off,  leave  it  covered  for  ten  minutes,  then  fill 
it  up  \\iih  rich  stock,  in  which  is  four  or 
five  large  carrots,  and  three  onions;  let  il 
boil  slowly  for  two  hours.  In  the  meantime 
put  the  knuckle  into  a  saucepan  with  four  or 
five  carrots,  as  many  onions  (one  stuck  with 
cloves),  and  two  ladlefuls  of  consomme; 
set  it  on  a  brisk  fire  that  the  liquor  may  re- 
duce to  a  jelly;  as  soon  as  this  jelly  begins 
to  take  color,  pour  on  it  the  liquor  from  the 
oilier  saucepan  to  dissolve  the  jelly  gradual- 
ly; then  make  it  boil.  Dilute  some  rorux 
with  the  above  liquor,  and  add  it  to  the  meat 
with  some  champignons,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
scallions,  and  two  bay-leaves,  skim  it  when 
it  begins  to  boil,  and  again  when  the  roux 
is  added,  put  in  more  consomme  or  roux, 
according  as  it  is  too  thick  or  too  thin. 

When  it  has  boiled  an  hour  and  a  half, 
take  off  all  the  fat ;  and  when  the  meat  is 
quite  done,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  bol- 
ting-cloth. 

GRILL.     To  half  a  pint  of  gravy, 

add  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  previously  well  rublx?d  to- 
gether, the  same  of  mushroom  or  walnut 
ketchup,  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice, 
one  of  made  mustard,  one  of  minced  capers, 
half  a  one  of  black  pep|>er,  a  quarter  of  a 
rind  of  a  lemon  grated  very  thin,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  a  little 
eschalot  wine,  or  a  very  small  piece  of  min- 
ced eschalot,  and  a  little  Chili  vinegar,  or  a 
few  grains  of  cayenne ;  simmer  together  for 
a  few  minutes;  pour  a  little  of  it  over  the 
grill ;  and  send  up  tlie  rest  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

HARVEY.  Chop  twelve  ancho- 
vies, bones  and  all,  very  small,  with  one 
ounce  of  cayenne  pepper,  six  spoonfuls  of 


SAUCES 


187 


SAUCES 


8<ly,  six  ditto  of  good  walnut  pickle,  three 
heads  of  garlic,  chopped  not  very  small,  a 
Quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cochineal,  two  heads 
of  shallots,  chopped  not  very  small,  one  gal- 
Ion  of  vinegar;  let  it  stand  fourteen  days, 
stir  it  well,  twice  or  thrice  every  day;  then 
pass  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  and  repeat  this 
till  it  is  perfectly  clearj_  then  bottle  it,  and 
tie  a  bladder  over  the  cork. 

HORSERADISH,  TO   EAT 

WITH  HOT  OR  COLD  MEAT.  Mix  a  tea- 
epoonful  of  mustard,  a  table-spoonful  of  vin- 
egar, and  three  of  cream ;  add  a  little  salt, 
and  as  much  finely-grated  horseradish  as 
will  make  the  sauce  the  consistence  of 
onion  sauce. 


FOR  HASHES  AND  MADE 

DISHES.  A  pint  of  Port  wine,  twelve 
anchovies  chopped,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
vinegar,  as  much  beaten  pepper  as  will  lie 
on  half  a  crown,  two  or  three  cloves,  a 
blade  or  two  of  mace,  a  nutmeg  bruised, 
One  small  onion  minced,  two  bay-, 
little  lemon  thyme,  marjoram,  and  parsley, 
and  a  piece  of  horseradish  about  the  length 
of  a  linger  split  into  quarters;  put  all  into  a 
saucepan,  and  let  it  simmer  till  the  ancho- 
vies are  dissolved ;  then  strain  it,  and,  when 
•old,  bottle  it  for  use. 

FOR  HASHED  OR  MINCED 

VK.VI..  Take  the  bones  of  cold  roast  or 
boiled  veal,  dredge  them  well  with  flour, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint 
and  a  hall"  of  broth  or  water,  a  small  onion, 
a  little  grated  or  I'mely-minced  lemon-peel, 
or  the  peel  of  a  quarter  of  a  sin. ill  lemon, 
pared  as  thin  as  possible,  half  a  tea-spoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  blade  of  pmimled  mace;  to 
thicken  it,  rub  a  table-spoonful  of  Hour  into 
half  an  ounce  of  butler ;  stir  it  into  the 
broth,  and  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil 
Ten  gently  fur  alxiut  half  an  hour;  strain 
through  a  i.uiiis  or  sieve,  and  it  is  ready  to 
put  to  the  \eal  to  warm  up  ;  uliii-li  in  to  be 
done  by  placing  the  stewpan  by  the  side  of 
the  lire.  Squeeze  in  hall"  a  lemon,  ami  cov- 
er the  bottom  of  the  di-h  with  ti.asted  bread 
•ippeU  cut  into  triangle*,  and  garnish  the 
diah  with  slices  of  ham  or  bacon. 


FOR  IIASHF.S  OF  MUTTON 

OR  BEEF.  Unless  yon  ,ue  i|iiite  sure  you 
perfectly  understand  the  palate  ,,f  those  you 
are  working  for,  show  those  who  are"  to 
eat  the  ha-h  tins  rn-ript.  and  !»•<,'  of  tln-m  to 
direct  you  how  they  wish  it  seasoned. 

Half  the  number  of  the   ingredient!  enu- 
merated will  lie  more  than  eiioii-_'h:  !><it  a«  it 
U  a  receipt  so  often  wanted  we  In 
variety . 

Chop  the  bones  and  fragments  of  the  joint, 


&c.,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan;  cover 
them  with  boiling  water,  six  berries  of 
black  pepper,  the  same  of  allspice,  a  small 
bundle  of  parsley,  half  a  bead  of  celery  cut 
in  pieces,  and  a  small  sprig  of  savory,  or 
lemon  thyme,  or  sweet  marjoram ;  cover  up, 
and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour. 

Slice  half  an  ounce  of  onion,  and  put  it 
into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter ;  fry 
it  over  a  sharp  fire  for  about  a  couple  of 
minutes,  till  it  take*  a  little  color;  then  stir 
in  as  much  flour  as  will  make  it  a  stiff 
paste,  and  by  degrees  mix  with  it  tlie  gravy 
you  hare  made  from  the  bones,  &c. ;  let  it 
boil  very  gently  for  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  till  it  is  the  consistence  of  cream; 
strain  it  through  a  tamis  or  sieve  into  a  ba- 
sin ;  put  it  back  into  the  stewpan :  to  season 
it,  cut  in  a  few  pickled  onions,  or  walnuts, 
or  a  couple  of  gherkins,  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  mushroom  ketchup,  or  walnut  or  other 
pickle  liquor;  or  some  capers,  and  caper 
li'liior;  or  a  table-spoonful  of  ale;  or  a  little 
eschalot,  or  tarragon  vinegar;  cover  the  bot- 
tom of  the  dish  with  sippets  of  bread  (that 
they  may  become  savory  reservoirs  of  gra- 
vy), which  some  toast  and  cut  into  triangles. 
Vmi  may  garnish  it  with  fried  bread  sippets. 

N.  B. — To  hash  meat  in  perfection,  it 
should  be  laid  in  this  gravy  only  just  long 
enough  to  get  properly  warm  through. 

O6t. — If  any  of  the  gravy  that  was  sent 
up  with,  or  ran  from  the  joint  when  it  was 
roa.-ied,  l>e  left,  it  will  be  a  great  improve- 
ment to  the  hash. 

If  you  wish  to  make  mock  venison,  instead 
of  the  onion,  put  in  two  or  three  cloves,  a 
table-spoonful  of  currant  jelly,  and  the  same 
quantity  of  claret  or  Port  wine,  instead  of 

the  ketchup. 

You  may  make  a  curry  hash  by  adding 
some  curry  jam. 

.V  B. — A  pint  of  Beef-gravy  Sauce  is  an 
excellent  gravy  to  warm  up  either  meat  or 
poultry. 

KELLY'S,   FOR    BOILED 

TRIPE,   CALF-HEAD,    OR    COW-HKKI.. 

( iarlic  \  ineuar,  a  table-spoonful ;  of  mustard, 
brown  sugar,  and  black  pepper,  a  tea-spoon- 
ful each;  stirred  into  half  a  pint  of  oiled 
melted  butter. 


KELLY'S  PIQUANTE.  Pound 

a  table-spoonful  of  capers,  and  one  of  minced 
parsley,  as  fine  as  possible;  then  add  the 
\olk-i  of  three  hard  eggs,  rub  them  well  to- 
U'etlier5' with  a  lable-opoonfiil  of  mustard; 
bone  <i\  a'lrlmv  ies,  and  |>o:iiid  tlh-in,  rub 
them  thioiii:h  a  hair  >ie\e,  and  mix  with  two 
table. sjnonl'nU  of  oil,  one  of  vinegar,  one  of 
eseiial  >!  ditto,  and  a  few  grains  »f  cayenne 
|>c|>|>ei  ;  rub  all  !li'-*e  well  (•>:,"  :her  in  a 
d;  then 


SAUCES 


189 


SAUCES 


stir  them  into  half  a  pint  of  good  gravy,  or 
melted  butter,  and  put  the  whole  through  a 
sieve. 

LEMON.    Pare  a  lemon,   and 

cut  it  into  slices  twice  as  thick  as  a  half- 
crown  piece;  divide  these  into  dice,  and  put 
them  into  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  melted  but- 
ter. Some  cooks  mince  a  bit  of  the  lemon- 
peel  (pared  very  thin)  very  fine,  and  add  it 
to  the  above. 


LEMON  AND  LIVER.     Pare 

off  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  or  of  a  Seville  orange, 
as  thin  as  possible,  so  as  not  to  cut  off  any 
of  the  white  with  it;   now  cut  off  all   the 
white,  and  cut  the  lemon  into  slices  about 
as  thick  as  a  couple  of  half-crowns ;  pick  out 
the   pips,   and    divide  the  slices  into  small 
squares:  add  these,  and  a  little  of  the  peel 
minced  very  tine   to  tlie  liver,  prepared  as 
directed  above,  and  put  them  into  the  melted 
butter,  and  warm  them  together;  but  do  not 
let  them  boil. 

N.  B. — The  poulterers  can  always  let  you 
have  fresh  livers,  if  that  of  the  fowl  or  rabbit 
is  not  good,  or  not  large  enough  to  make  as 
much  sauce  as  you  wish. 

Obs. — Some  cook.«,  instead  of  pounding, 
mince  the  liver  very  fine  (with  half  as  much 
bacon),  and  leave  out  the  parsley;  others 
ndd  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and"  some  of 
the  peel  grated,  or  a  tea-spoonful  of  tarragon 
or  Chili  vinegar,  a  table-spoonful  of  white 
wine,  or  a  little  beaten  mace,  or  nutmeg, 
or  allspice:  if  you  wish  it  a  little  more  lively 
on  the  palate,  pound  an  eschalot,  or  a  few 
leaves  of  tarragon  or  basil,  with  anchovy,  or 
ketchup*  or  cayenne. 

LIVER  AND  PARSLEY,  OR 

LIVER  AND  LEMON.  Wash  the  liver 
(it  must  be  |>erfectly  fresh)  of  a  fowl  or  rab- 
bit, and  boil  it  five  minutes  in  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water;  chop  it  fine,  or  pound 
or  bruise  it  in  a  small  quantity  of  the  liquor 
it  was  boiled  in,  and  nib  it  through  a  sieve: 
wash  about  One-third  the  bulk  of  parsley 
leaves,  put  them  on  to  boil  in  a  little  boiling 
water,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  in  it;  lay 
it  on  a  hair  sieve  to  drain,  and  mince  it  very 
fine;  mix  it  with  the  liver,  and  put  it  into  a 
quarter  pint  of  melted  butter,  and  warm  it 
up ;  do  not  let  it  boil. 

LOBSTER.  (1)  Bruise  the  body, 

add  it  to  some  thick  melted  butter;  pull  the 
flesh  into  small  bits,  and  mix  all  together 
with  some  rich  beef  gravy ;  boil  it  up,  and 
before  serving  add  a  little  salt,  and  squeeze 
in  a  little  lemon-juice. 

LOBSTER.     (2)     Pound  very 

finely  the  spawn  of  a  lobster,  rub  it  through 


a  sieve,  mix  it  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  melted  butter,  then  add  the  meat  of  the 
lobster  cut  into  small  bits.  Make  it  quite 
hot,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil. 


LOBSTER.     See  Lobster. 

FOR   LOBSTER.    Bruise  the 

yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  with  the  back 
of  a  wooden  spoon,  or  rather  pound  them  in 
a  mortal,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  water,  and 
the  soft  inside  and  the  spawn  of  the  lobster  ; 
rub  them  quite  smooth,  with  a  tea-spoonful 
of  made   mustard,   two    table-spoonfuls    of 
salad  oil,  and  five  of  vinegar;  season  it  with 
a  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  some  salt. 

LOVE-APPLE,  ACCORDING 

TO  UDE.  Melt  in  a  stewpan  a  dozen  or 
two  of  love-apples  (which,  before  putting  in 
the  stewpan,  cut  in  two,  and  squeeze  the 
juice  and  the  seeds  out);  then  put  two  es- 
chalots, one  onion,  with  a  few  bits  of  ham, 
a  clove,  a  little  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  few 
leaves  of  mace,  and  when  melted,  rub  them 
through  a  tamis.  Mix  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
good  Espagnole  or  Spanish  sauce,  and  a 
little  salt  and  pepper,  with  this  puree.  Boil 
it  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  up. 

MINT.     (1)      Pick   and   wash 

some  green  mint ;  add,  when  minced,  a 
table-spoonful  of  the  young  leaves,  to  four 
of  vinegar,  and  put  it  into  a  sauce-tureen, 
with  a  tea-spoonful  of  brown  sugar. 

MINT.  (2)  Wash  half  a  hand- 
ful of  nice,  young,  fresh-gathered  green  mint 
(to  this  some  add  one-third  tlie  quantity  of 
parsley);  pick  the  leaves  from  the  stalks, 
mince  them  very  fine,  and  put  them  into  a 
sauce-boat,  with  a  lea-spoonful  of  moist  su- 
gar, and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar. 

MOCK    CAPER.     Cut    some 

pickled  green  pease,  French  beans,  gherkins, 
or  nasturtiums,  into  bits  the  size  of  capers; 
put  them  into  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter, 
with   two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice,  or 
nice  vinegar. 


MOCK  OYSTER.     Put  into  a 

saucepan  two  or  three  chopped  and 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  water,  a  little  mace,  and 
one  or  two  cloves;  let  them  simmer  till  the 
anchovies  be  quite  dissolved.  Strain  it,  and 
when  cool,  add  a  tea-cupful  of  cream ;  thick- 
en it  with  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
and  heat  it  up.  It  may  be  poured  over 
boiled  fowls  or  veal. 

MOCK  TOM  ATA.    Tlie  only 

difference  between  this  and  genuine  love- 
apple  sauce,  a  the  substituting  the  pulp  of 


SAUCES 


189 


SAUCES 


apple  for  that  of  tomata,  coloring  it  with 
tumeric,  and  communicating  an  acid  flavor 
to  it  by  vinegar. 

MUSHROOM.  Pirk  and  peel 

half  a  pint  of  mushrooms  (the  smaller  the 
better) ;  wash  them  very  clean,  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan,  with  half  a  pirn  of  veal 
gravy  or  milk,  i  little  pepper  and  suit,  and 
an  ounce  of  butter  rul>l>ed  with  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour;  stir  tlxin  together,  and  set  tin-in 
over  a  gentle  fire,  to  stew  slowly  till  tender; 
skim  and  strain  it. 

O6». — It  will  be  a  great  improvement  to 
t!ii-,  and  the  two  following  sauces,  to  add  to 
them  the  juice  of  half  a  dozen  mushrooms, 
prepared  the  day  Ivtore,  by  sprinkling  them 
with  salt,  the  ,-ame  a-  uh.  n  you  make  ketch- 
up; or  add  a  large  spoonful  of  good  double 
mushroom  ketchup. 

See  Quintessence  of  Mushrooms. 

MUSHROOM,  FOR  BOILED 

TIRKKY  OR  FOWL.  Pick  clean  and 
wash  a  pint  of  small  mushrooms,  rub  them 
with  tlaimel,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  little  salt,  grated  nutmeg, 
a  PI.  ••••  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  a  pint 
of  en-am,  keep  Stirling  tliem  till  they  boil, 
then  pour  them  round  the  turkey,  fowl,  or 
chicken. 


W I HTE  OMON.    The  follow- 
ing in  a  more  mild  and  delicate  preparation: 

take  hall"  a  down  "I"  tlie  largest  and  whitest 
onionsi  (the  Swinish  are  the  mildest,  but 
i  only  IK-  had  from  August  to  De- 
Oember) ;  [x-el  them  and  cut  them  in  half, 
•ml  lay  them  in  a  pan  of  .spring  water  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then  Imil  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour ;  and  then,  if  you  wish  them 
to  taste  very  mild,  pour  off  that  water,  and 
cover  them  \\ith  froh  lulling  water,  and  let 
Uiem  lioil  i  ill  ilie\  are  tender,  which  will 
sometimes  take  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
longer. 


O.MON.     Boil  twelve  or  more 

union*  in  water;  when  it  boils,  pour  it  off, 
add  more  liot  water,  and  when  die  onions 
•  T,  strain  anil  mash  them  in  a  bowl, 
add  a  piece  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  and  one 
or  two  spoonfuls  of  cream.  Heat  it  before 
s-erviiiif.  An  apple  may  lie  boiled  with  the 
unions. 


ONION, OR  ONION  GRAVY. 

Peel  and  slice  the  onions  .(some  put  in  an 
e<|iial  quantity  of  curmnlx-r  or  celery)  into  a 
quart  .-tew  pan,  with  an  ounce  of  butler;  -ei 
it  on  a  i-|.. u  tiie,  anil  turn  the  onion  alxmt 
till  it  is  very  lightly  browned;  ix>\\  s;racliially 
stir  in  half  an  ounee  of  tlonr ;  add  a  little 
broth,  and  a  little  |X-|)|KT  and  sail;  boil  up 


for  a  few  minutes;  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
claret,  or  Port  wine,  and  same  of  mush- 
room ketchup,  (you  may  sharpen  it  wkh  a 
little  lemon-juice  or  vinegar),  and  rub  it 
through  a  tamis  or  fine  sieve.  Curry  powder 
will  convert  this  into  excellent  curry  sauce. 

N.  B. — If  this  sauce  is  for  steaks,  shred 
an  ounce  of  onions,  fry  them  a  nice  brown, 
and  put  them  to  the  sauce  you  have  rubbed 
through  a  tamis;  or  some  very  small,  round, 
young  silver  button  onions,  peeled  and  boil- 
ed tender,  and  put  in  whole  when  your  sauce 
is  done,  will  be  an  acceptable  addition. 

Obs. — If  you  have  no  broth,  put  in  half  a 
pint  of  water,  and  just  before  you  give  it  the 
last  boil  up,  add  to  it  another  table-spoonful 
of  mushroom  ketchup,  or  the  same  quantity 
of  Port  wine  or  good  ale.  The  flavor  of 
this  sauce  may  be  varied  by  adding  tarragon 
or  burnet  vinegar. 


OMON.     See  Onion. 

ORANGE  GRAVY,  FOR  WILD 

DOCKS,  WOODCOCKS,  SNIPES,  WIDG- 
EON, TEAL,  &c.  Set  on  a  saucepan  with 
half  a  pint  of  veal  gravy ;  add  to  it  half  a 
dozen  leaves  of  basil,  a  small  onion,  and  a 
roll  of  orange  or  lemon  peel,  and  let  it  boil 
up  for  a  few  minutes,  and  strain  it  off.  Put 
to  the  clear  gravy  the  juice  of  a  Seville  or- 
ange, or  lemon,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt, 
the  same  of  pepper,  and  a  glass  of  red  wine ; 
send  it  up  hot.  Eschalot  and  cayenne  may 
be  added.  This  is  an  excellent  sauce  for 
all  kinds  of  wild  water-fowl, 

(iiavies  should  always  be  sent  up  in  a 
covered  boat:  they  keep  hot  longer;  and  it 
leaves  it  to  the  choice  of  the  company  to 
partake  of  them  or  not. 


OYSTER.     See  Oyster*. 


PIQUANT.  Put  a  little  chop- 
ped shallot  and  a  few  spoonfuls  of  gravy  in- 
to a  saucepan ;  let  it  boil  till  the  gravy  be 
nearly  I  mi  led  away,  but  not  burned  to  the 
bottom  of  tin-  saucepan ;  add  as  much 
brai.-e  as  may  be  required  for  the  sauce, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  boil  it  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  a  little  lemon-juice,  sugar, 
and  a  tea-spoonful  of  garlic  vinegar. 

N.  B. — Braise  is  an  onion  stuck  wi'h 
cloves,  and  boiled  till  tender  in  gravy  and 
white  wine. 


PIQUANT,  for  cold  Meat, 

Game,  Poultry,  Fish,  fye.  or  Salad*. 
Pound  in  a  mortar  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
that  have  been  boiled  hard  with  a  mu.-lard- 
spoonful  of  made  mustard,  and  a  little  pep- 
per and  salt  :  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sal- 
ad oil  ;  mix  uell,  and  then  add  three  lable- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar ;  rub  it  up  well  till  it  i* 


SAUCES 


190 


SAUCES 


quite  smooth,  and  pass  it  through  a  tamis  or 
sieve. 

Obs. — To  the  above,  some  add  an  an- 
chovy, or  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  or  walnut  pickle,  some  finely-chop- 
ped parsley,  grated  horseradish,  or  young 
onions  minced,  or  burnet,  horseradish  or 
tarragon,  or  elder  vinegar,  &c.,  and  cay- 
enne or  minced  pickles,  capers,  &c.  This 
is  a  piquante  relish  for  lobsters,  crabs,  cold 
lush,  &c. 

SALAD  OR  PIQUANT,  FOR 

COLD  MEAT,  FISH,  &c.  Pound  together 
an  ounce  of  scraped  horseradish,  half  an 
ounce  of  salt,  a  table-spoonful  of  made  mus- 
tard, four  drachms  of  minced  eschalots, 
half  a  draclun  of  celery  seed,  and  half  ditto 
of  cayenne,  adding  gradually  a  pint  of  bur- 
net,  or  tarragon  vinegar,  and  let  it  stand  in 
a  jar  a  week,  and  then  pass  it  through  a 
sieve. 


POIVRADE,     FOR    COLD 

MEAT.    (1)    Chop  finely  six  shallots  and  a 
handful  of  picked  and  washed  parsley ;  mix 
with  it  a  little  vinegar,   mustard,  cayenne 
some  cold  gravy,  and  salt. 

POIVRADE,   FOR    COLD 

MEAT.  (2)  Bruise  the  yolk  of  a  hard- 
boiled  egg  with  a  little  salt  and  mustard, 
oil,  soy,  chopped  parsley,  and  chives,  and 
pour  it  over  slices  of  any  cold  meat. 

PUDDING.     Mix  with  half  a 

pint  of  melted   butter  two  wine-glasses  of 
sherry,    and    a   table-spoonful    of    pounded 
loaf  sugar;  make  it  quite  hot,  and  serve  in 
a  sauce-tureen,  with  grated  nutmeg  on  the 
top. 

QUIN'S.     (1)     Half  a  pint  of 

mushroom  pickle,  the  same  of  walnut  pickle, 
three  whole  and  three  pounded  cloves  of 
garlic,  six  anchovies  bruised,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cayenne.  Mix  all  together  in  a 
large  bottle,  shake  it  daily  lor  three  weeks, 
then  strain,  and  bottle  it  for  use. 


QUIN'S.     (2)      One   pint  of 

Port  wine,  one  of  mushroom  ketchup,  one 
of  walnut  liquor,  one  of  essence  of  ancho- 
vies, and  a  tea-spoonful  of  cayenne;  mix 
all  together,  and  boil  it  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour.  If  essence  of  anchovies,  i.s  not  to  be 
had,  boil  half  a  pound  of  anchovies  in  a 
quart  of  water  till  reduced  to  a  pint.  Strain, 
and  use  it. 


REVEREND.     Chop  up  some 

lemon-peel,  and  two  or  three  piokled  cu- 
cumbers; put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
two  spoonfuls  of  cullis,  a  little  butter  rolled 


in  flour,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  put 
it  on  the  fire,  and  make  it  quite  hot  without 
boiling,  stirring  all  the  time,  make  a  liaison 
with  yolks  of  eggs,  and  serve. 

RICE.  Steep  a  quarter  of  a 

pound  of  rice  in  a  pint  of  milk,  with  uiion, 
pepper,  &c.  as  in  the  last  receipt;  when 
the  rice  is  quite  tender  (take  out  the  spice), 
rub  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  stcwpan: 
if  too  thick,  put  a  little  milk  or  cream  to  it. 

Obs. — This  is  a  very  delicate  white 
sauce;  and  at  elegant  tables  is  frequently 
served  instead  of  bread  sauce. 


FOR  ROAST  BEEF.  (1)  Mix 

well  together  a  large  table-spoonful  of 
finely-grated  horseradish,  a  dessert-spoon- 
ful of  made  mustard,  and  half  a  one  of 
brown  sugar,  then  add  vinegar  till  it  I  e  as 
dn'ck  as  made  mustard.  Serve  in  a  sauce- 
tureen. 

FOR  ROAST  BEEF.   (2)  Put 

into  a  stone  jar  one  gill  of  soy,  two  of  vine- 
gar, two  of  water,  a  good-sized  stick  of 
horseradish,  and  two  sliced  onions.  Cover 
the  jar  closely,  and  set  it  into  a  pan  of  cold 
water ;  when  it  boils,  let  it  simmer  for  two 
or  three  hours. 


ROBART,  FOR  BEEF  STEAKS 

OR  MUTTON  CHOPS.  Put  into  a  saucepan 
a  little  gravy,  two  ounces  of  butter  dredged 
with  flour,  a  small  slice  of  raw  ham,  and 
two  or  three  minced  onions ;  when  the  on- 
ions are  browned,  dust  in  a  little  more 
flour,  and  add  nearly  a  pint  of  gravy,  a  lit- 
tle salt  and  pepper,  a  tea-spoonful  of  mus- 
tard, and  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar.  Boil 
it  for  gome  minutes,  strain  and  serve  it. 


SALAD.     (1)     B'liise  the  yolk 

of  a  hard-boiled  egg  with  a  small  tea-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  then  add  a  dessert-spoonful  of 
mustard,  and  stir  in  gradually  a  large  table- 
spoonful  of  olive  oil,  oiled  butter,  or  cream, 
then  by  degrees  mix  in  two  or  three  table- 
tpoonUiU  of  vinegar;  serve  it  in  a  sauce- 
tureen,  or  mix  it  with  the  salad.  Instead 
of  the  hard  eijij,  sonic  persons  prefer  the 
fuuce  made  with  the  yolk  raw. 
; 

SALAD.     (2)      Rub  smooth  a 

hard-boiled  egg,  beat  well  a  ra\*  egg,  and 
mix  them  together  with  a  little  water,  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt,  one  of  cayenne,  one  of 
(jepper,  and  one  of  mustard,  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  vinegar,  one  of  essence  of  anchovies, 
and  five  of  rich  cream. 

The  artist,  as  he  styled  himself,  who  in- 
vented this  salad  sauce  drove  in  his  carriage 
to  his  employers,  and  charged  them  ten  shiU 
lings  and  sixpence  for  each  visit ! 


SAUCES 


191 


SAUCES 


SAUCES.     See  alto  Gravy,  page  89. 


SHALLOT.  (1)  Boil  a  few  mine- 

ed  shallots  in  a  little  clear  gravy  .mil  nearly 
as  much  vinegar,  add  :i  few  pcp|*  i 
a  little  salt.     Strain,  and  sent-  it  in  a  sauce- 
tureen. 

—  SHALLOT.  (2)  Take  two  spoon- 
fills  of  the  liquor  tlie  meat  was  U.iled  in,  tun 
spoonfuls  of  \  inegar,  two  or  three  shallots  rut 
fine,  and  a  liule.-alt;  put  these  ingredients 
into  :i  saucepan,  with  a  hit  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour;  let  it  stow  a  little;,  and  serve  it  up 
with  your  mutton  or  beef. 

Sll\i;p,    FOR     VENISON. 

Put  into  a  silver,  or  \ery  clean  and  vvell- 
tinned  saucepan,  half  a  pint  of  the  Ixjst 
white  wiiii-  \  iurijar,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  Inaf-sunar  |«uinded:  sel  it  over  the 

lire,  and  let  it  >in r  genllv  ;   skim  it  care- 

fiillv;   |K>ur  it  through  a  tamis  or  fine  sieve, 

:  it  up  in  a  Uisin. 

Obs. — Some  people  like  this  better  than 
the  swi^t  wine  sauces. 

S I  IK  I  M  I'.  ( I )  Pick  some  shrimps 

nicely  from  the  shell,  put  them  into  melted 
butter,  add  a  taUe-s|>oonful  of  lemon  pickle 
and  vim-gar;  heat  it. 

SlIKIMP.    (2)   Shell  a  pint  of 

shrimps;  pick  them  clean,  wash  them,  and 
put  them  into  half  a  pint  of  good  melted 
Inittei-.  A  pint  of  imshelled  shrimps  is  about 
enough  fir  four  IXMS..M-. 

Obs. — Some  MI-VV  the  heads  and  shells 
of  tlv  shrimp,  (with  or  without  a  Made 
of  bruise-i  m;;ee),  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
:.i  oil'  the  liquor  to  melt  the  butter 
with,  and  add  a  little  lemon-juice,  cayenne, 
and  essence  of  anchovy,  or  soy,  cavire, 
&c. ;  but  the  flavor  of  the  shrimp  is  so  deli- 
cate, that  it  will  Ixj  overcome  by  any  such 
additions. 

— If  vour  shrimps  are  not  quite 
fresh,  they  will  eat  tough  and  tliready,  as 
other  stale  lL-h  do. 


sorrel,  well  drain  it  from  water,  and  then  put 
it  into  a  stew  pan,  well  covered  with  a  bit  of 
butler,  and  let  it  stew  very  gently  over  a  slow 
tire;  \\lien  done,  put  it  to  drain  on  a  sieve  lor 
tlirev  minutes,  then,  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
rub  it  through  a  tammy  into  a  dish;  put  it 
into  a  stcwpan,  with  a  bit  of  butter,  stir- 
ring it  over  the  fire  till  thoroughly  mixed; 
yon  may  add,  if  you  choose,  three  spoon- 
fuls of  good  consomme,  and  uhen  it  has 
lulled  lor  a  lew  minutes,  add  to  it  half  as 
much  cream  sauce  as  there  is  sorrel,  and  if 
I  necessary  .-easnn  with  a  little  salt  ;  this  is 
pro|x>r  (or  a  fricandeau  of  veal  or  entrees 
offish. 


SOKUKI,.    (1)   Pick  and  w.i>h 

(Some sorrel,  put  it  into  a  stewpau  with  a  lit- 

.  Mir  it,  to  prevent   i 

when  it  is  tender,  drain  and  miucc  it  finely; 
lialf  an  hour  in  a    M-'Hpan   with    a 
hide  h'lttir,  then  (Iri-d.'e  in  a   lah!> 
of  llonr,  inoistem  it  with  Imiling  ci . 

Bre  l  •>•  an  hour;    .nil  a 
little  .-all.  and   if  too   acid,  a    little  sugar. 

.  thirkeu  with  the  U  a 
of  four  eggs. 

• SDKKF.I..     (2)     Pick  and  thor- 
oughly wash  two  double  liandlnls  of  young 


SUPERLATIVE.     Claret,  or 

Port  u  ine,  and  mushroom  ketchup,  a  pint  of 
each.  Half  a  pint  of  walnut  or  other  pickle 
liquor.  Pounded  anchovies,  four  ounces. 
Fresh  lemon-peel,  pared  very  thin,  an  ounce. 
Peeled  and  sliced  eschalots,  the  same. 
Scraped  horseradish,  ditto.  Allspice,  and ' 
black  |iepper  powdered,  half  an  ounce  each. 
Cayenne,  one  drachm,  or  curry-powder, 
three  drachms.  Celery-seed  bruised,  one 
drachm.  All  avoirdupois  weight.  Put 
these  into  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  stop  it 
clo-e,  shake  it  up  every  day  for  a  fortnight, 
and  strain  it  (when  some  think  it  improved 
by  the  addition  of  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  sov, 
or  thick  browning),  and  you  will  have  a 
"delicious  double  relish."  Dr.  Kitchinrr 
says,  this  coni|Hisition  is  one  of  the  "  chels 
d'n-uvrc  "  of  iiianv  experiment!  he  has  made, 
lor  tic-  purpose  of  enabling  the  good  house- 
wives of  Great  Britain  to  prepare  their  own 
:i  is  equally  agreeable  with  fish, 
iramr-,  poultry,  or  ragouts,  &c.,  and  as  a 
lair  lady  may  make  it  herself,  its  relish  will 
Ix;  not  a  little  augmented,  by  the  certainty 
that  all  the  ingredients  are  good  and  whole- 

Obs. — Under  an  infinity  of  circumstances, 
a  cook  may  Ix-  in  want  of" the  substances  ne- 
cessary to  make  sauce:  the  above  composi- 
tion of  tlie  several  articles  from  which  tiic 
jiavies  derive  their  flavor,  will  br 
found  a  vei-y  admirable  extemporaneous  sub- 
stitute. By  mixing  a  large  table-spoonful 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thickened  melted 
.  broth,  five  minutes  will  finish  a 
luat  of  very  relishing  .-ance,  nearly  equal  to 
drawn  gravy,  and  as  likely  to  put  your  lin- 
gual nerves  into  good  humor  as  any  thing  1 
know. 

To  make  a  boat  of  sauce  for  poultry,  &c. 
put  a  piece  of  butter  about  as  big  as  an  egg 
into  a  stewpan,  set  It  on  the  fire;  when  it 
is  in. -lied,  j«it  to  it  a  table-sixionful  of  flour; 
stir  it  thoroughly  together,  and  add  to  it 
two  table-spoonfufs  of  sauce,  and  by  degrees 
almut  half  a  pint  of  broth,  or  boiling  water, 
let  it  simmer  gently  over  a  slow  fire  for  a 


SAUCES 


192 


SAUCES 


few  minutes,  skim  it  and  strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  and  it  is  ready. 

FOR  STEAKS,  CHOPS,  OR 

CUTLETS.  Take  your  chops  out  of  the 
frying-pan;  for  a  pound  of  meat  keep  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  the  fat  in  the  pan,  or  put  in 
about  an  ounce  of  butter;  put  to  it  as  much 
limn  as  will  make  it  a  paste;  rub  it  well 
together  over  the  fire  till  they  are  a  little 
brown ;  then  add  as  much  boiling  water  as 
will  reduce  it  to  the  thickness  of  good  cream, 
and  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  or  walnut 
ketchup,  or  pickle,  or  browning;  let  it  boil 
together  a  few  minutes,  and  pour  it  through 
a  sieve  to  the  steaks,  &c. 

Obs. — To  the  above  is  sometimes  added 
a  sliced  onion,  or  a  minced  eschalot,  with 
a  table-s|x>onful  of  Port  wine,  or  a  little 
eschalot  wine.  Garnish  with  finely-scraped 
horseradish,  or  pickled  walnuts,  gherkins, 
&c.  Some  beef-eaters  like  chopped  escha- 
lots in  one  saucer,  and  horseradish  grated 
in  vinegar,  in  another.  Broiled  mushrooms 
are  favorite  relishes  to  beef  steaks. 


SWEET,  FOR  VENISON  OR 

HARE.  Put  some  currant  jelly  into  a 
stewpan ;  when  it  is  melted,  pour  it  into  a 
sauce-boat. 

N.  B.— Many  send  it  to  table  without 
melting. 

Tliis  is  a  more  salubrious  relish  than 
either  spice  or  salt,  when  the  palate  pro- 
tests against  animal  food  unless  its  flavor  be 
masked.  Currant  jelly  is  a  good  accom- 
paniment to  roasted  or  hashed  meats. 


SWEET.     Put  some  cinnamon 

into  a  saucepan,  with  as  much  water  as 
will  cover  it ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  it 
has  boiled  up  once  or  twice,  add  two 
spoonfuls  of  powder  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  white  wine,  and  two  bay -leaves;  give 
the  whole  one  boil,  and  then  strain  it  for 
table. 


TART  ARE.  Pound  in  a  mor- 
tar three  hard  yolks  of  eggs ;  put  them  into 
a  basin,  and  add  half  a  table-spoonful  of 
made  mustard,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt; 
pour  to  it  by  degrees,  stirring  it  fast  all  the 
while,  about  two  wine-glassfuls  of  salad  oil; 
stir  it  together  till  it  comes  to  a  good  thick- 
ness. 

N.  B. — A  little  tarragon  or  chervil  minc- 
ed very  fine,  and  a  little  vinegar,  may  be 
added. 


TOMATA.     See  Tomata. 

TOURNEE.    To  a  little  white 

thickening  add  some  stock  drawn  from  the 
trimmings  of  veal,   poultry,   and   ham;  do 


not  make  it  too  thick.  Boil  it  slowly  with 
a  few  mushrooms,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and 
some  green  onions;  strain  and  skim  it  well, 
and  use  it  as  required.  German  sauce  is 
made  as  the  saure  tournee,  adding  the  beat-- 
en yolks  of  two  or  mure  eggs,  and  is  used 
fi>r  ragouts,  fricassees,  and  any  made  dish 
which  may  require  a  rich  white  sauce. 

WHITE.     Thicken  half  a  pint 

of  cream  with  a  little  Hour  and  butter,  four 
shallots  minced,  a  little  mace  and  lemon- 
peel;  let  it  boil,  and  a  little  before  serving, 
add  a  spoonful  of  white  wine,  the  well-beaten 
yolk  of  an  egg,  the  squeeze  of  a  lemon,  and 
a  tea-spoonful  of  anchovy  liquor.  This  sauce 
will  answer  for  boiled  fowls,  or  for  a  fricas- 
see. 


WHITE,  FOR  FOWLS  OR 

TURKEY.  Put  on,  in  a  quart  of  water, 
the  necks  of  fowls,  a  piece  of  the  scrag-end 
of  a  neck  of  mutton,  two  blades  of  mace, 
twelve  peppercorns,  one  anchovy,  a  small 
head  of  celery,  a  slice  from  oft"  the  end  of  a 
lemon,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ;  cover  it 
closely,  and  let  it  boil  till  reduced  to  nearly 
half  a  pint;  strain,  and  put  to  it  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter  divided  with  flour;  let 
it  boil  for  five  minutes,  and  then  add  two 
spoonfuls  of  pickled  mushrooms.  Mix  with 
a  tea-cupful  of  cream,  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  and  some  grated  nutmeg;  stir 
this  in  gradually,  ami  shake  the  pan  over 
the  fire  till  it  is  all  quite  hot,  but  do  not  al- 
low it  to  boil. 


WHITE     ITALIAN.       Peel 

some  mushrooms,  and  throw  them  into  a 
little  water  and  lemon-juice,  to  keep  them 
white.  Put  into  a  stewjian  two-thirds  of 
sauce  tournee,  ami  one-third  of  good  veal 
stock,  two  lable-spoonfula  of  finely-chopped 
mushrooms,  and  half  a  table-spoonful  of 
washed  and  chopped  shallots;  let  it  boil  till 
well  flavored,  ami  then  serve  it.  The 
mushrooms  should  be  as  white  as  possible. 


WHITE   SHARP.    Boil  with 

a  little  tarragon,  or  tarragon  vinegar,  if  the 
tarragon  is  not  to  be  had,  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  white  wine  vinegar,  and  about  twen- 
ty peppercorns ;  reduce  this  to  one-fourth, 
and  add  it  to  six  table-spoonfuls  of  sauce- 
tournee,  and  two  of  good  stock;  boil  and 
strain  it;  put  it  again  on  the  fire, and  thick- 
en it  with  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a 
small  bit  of  butter,  a  little  salt  and  cayenne. 
Just  before  serving,  stir  in  a  spoonful  of 
cream. 


WHITE,  FOR  BOILED  FOWLS. 

Melt  in  a  tea-cupful  of  milk  a  large  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  kneaded  in  flour,  beat  up 


SAU 


193 


SAU 


the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  a  tea-spoonful  of 
Cream,  stir  il  inlo  the  Uiltrr,  and  heat  it 
over  the  fire,  stirring  it  roustautU  :  chop- 
-ley  improves  this  sauce.  It  also 
may  be  made  by  melting  tlie  butler  with 
water,  anil  mixing  milk  with  tin 

S.U  Ci:.  \VIM-'..  roRVKMS<>\  OK 
HARK.  A  quarter  of  a  pint  1,1'  claret  or 
Port  wine,  tin-  same  i|ii.iniity  <if  plain,  un- 
favored mint. -II  mavy,  and  a  table-*poonful 
of  cnrr.int  jelly:  let  it  just  Ixiil  up,  anil  .-end 
it  to  table  in  a  sauce-In  .at. 

,-\l  cT.,  \VO\V  \V(>\\  .  FOR  STKW  KT> 

OR   BoUll.l.I    1)KI.K.       ( .'llnp  some    parsley- 

leaves  very  liiK':  quMMr  two  on  thrae  pickled 

curuiiiliers,  or  walnuts,  and  divide  tlicm  into 
small  .-J|iiares,  and  set  them  liv  rra«iy:  put 
into  .1  saucepan  a  lilt  of  butter  as  ln\'  as  an 
egij;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  in  it  a  table- 
spooiifnl  of  line  llmir,  and  alunt  halt"  a  pint 
of  the  broth  in  which  the  1  - 
add  .1  fable-spoonful  nf  vinegar,  the  like 
({uaiility  of  mushroom  ketchup,  or  l'"i  I  wine, 
or  both,  and  a  MMfWMfol  of  made  mustard  ; 
let  it  simmer  together  (ill  it  is  as  thick  as 
you  wish  it;  put  in  the  parsley  and  pickles 
to  get  warm,  ami  |*mr  it  ovr  the  Ix-ef;  or 
rather  -end  it  up  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

O6«. — If  you  think  the  alio\e  not  sufii'-ient- 
ly  pit/uiiiitf,  add  to  il  some  capers,  or  a 
minced  i-schalot,  or  one  or  two  tea-?|xx>nl'nls 
of  eschalot  wine,  or  e-sence  of  anchovy,  or 
basil,  elder,  or  tarragon,  or  btnaradtsh,  or 
Ixirnet  vinegar  ;  or.-tiew  o\er  tin-  : 

•iirnips  cut  inlo  dice,  minced  ra|>ers, 
walnut.-.  .  pickled  curuinbers,  or 

French  IHMII- 

SAI   SM.r.S.  fl)   Art  ,•..:.,:,-. 
rions    kinds    of   ni"at,  eh'.; 
small,  with  ponndeil    spices,  and  atom.iiic 
herlis,  shred  line;  then-  ingredients  are  put 
into  skins,  or  guts  (thoroughly  washed),  and 
tied  into  lengtlis  of  from  two  to  live  infix*. 
S  line   |»  i-..ns    add  to   the   inixtni 
of  Rhenish,  Cliampjigix;,  Madeini,  or  oiiier 
wine. 

S\rs.\(iKS,   (2)    Are  Ix-st  when  fiiiito 

ie.     1'ut  a  bit  of  butter,  or  dripping 

into   a  clean    Irvine-pan;    as  soon  as  it  is 

melti-il  (licfure  i;  geu  hot)   put  in  the  8aU8a- 

_••-.    and   shake   liie   pan    |..r   a    mi.. 

keep  turning  them  (!«•  c.n.  liil  not  to  break 

or  prick  tliein  in  so  doiny) ;   fry  them  OUT  a 

A    lire   till  thes    are   nicely  browned 

•s;    when  they  are  done,  lay  them 

i   sieve,  placed  before  the  tin-  i  i   a 

couple  "I  min  Het  to  drain  the  fat  from  them. 

Tlic  ><•( -ret  of  li  \  in^'  sausages  is,  to  let  them 

get  hot  \ery   gradually;    they  tlien  will  not 

liur.-t.   if  tin  \    aie   n..t  .-tale."    The  connnoii 

17 


practice  to  prevent  their  bursting,  is  to  prick 
them  with  a  fork;  Imt  this  !<•(.«  the  gravy 
out.  Yon  may  froth  them  by  nilibing  them 
with  cold  fre.-h  butter,  and  lightly  1  1  red  go 
them  with  Iliiiir,  and  jxit  llirni  in  a  cheese- 
toa-ter  or  l>iiti'n  m.-n  |or  a  minute.  Some 

nuical  rotiks  insist  that  no  butter 
or  lard,  kc.  i.-  pe(|iiire<l,  their  own  fat 

icient  to  I'ry  them:  we  have  tried 
it;  the  sausage*  were  partially  scorched, 
and  had  that  piebald  ap|K-aramv  that  all 
fried  things  ha\e  when  sufficient  fat  is  not 


. 

Obx.  —  I'oac-hed  eggs,  pease  pudding,  and 
mashed  |>otatoes,  are  agreeable  acroni|)ani- 
nients  t"  "nl  sausages  areas  wel- 

come I  toiled  with  roasted  pinny  or  veal,  or 
boiled  tripe;  so  are  ready-dressed  German 
sausages;  and  a  convenient,  easily  digestible, 
and  invigorating  food  for  the  aged,  and  those 
who.-e  leelh  are  defective. 

N.  II.  —  Sausages,  when  finely  chopped, 
are  :t  delicate  "  bonne  bouche;"  and  require 
vei-y  little  ii-i-tanr,.  fin  m  the  teeth  to  render 
them  (|iiile  n-ady  for  the  stomach. 

SM  -\(JKS.     (3)    Take   a   pound  of 

the  Kiuard  fat  of  the  piu,  and  half  a  pound 
of  lean  [Kirk  ;  pick  them  Itoth  from  skin  and 
sinews,  mi:iee  them  very  tiuely,  -jmtea  large 
nutmeg,  take  its  weight  of  pounded  mace 
and  cliAes,  ih--  largest  pro|x>rtion  mace,  tlie 
weight  of  aU  of  pepper,  MM  twice  the  weight 
of  tlie  spici  s  of  >:ilt  ;  chop  finely  a  !• 

!  a  little  lemon  thyme;  mix  all  well 
together  with  two  lar^e  talil.'-stxmiiflils  of 
^r.iii-d  bread  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten. 
It  may  I  x:  put  into  skin.-,  or  packed  into  a 
jar  and  lied  closely  with  bladder.  When 
lo  !>e  used,  moisten  it  with  the  yolk  of  an 
i"Z«  beaten,  make  it  up  in  tile  form  of  sauea- 
i  them,  and  fry  tliem  in  butter. 

S  \l  s  \<iKS,  BEEF  AND  OYSTER. 
See  Beef. 

S  \  i  SAGES,  TO  MAKE.  Chop  to- 
gether  two  pounds  of  lean  pork,  and  one 
and  a  half  of  the  inward  fat  of  the  pig,  the 
crumb  of  a  penny  loaf  cut  into  sli(  •••"  and 
soaked  in  cold  water;  season  wilh  pepper, 
salt,  grated  nutmeg,  lemon  thyme,  and  a 
little  sage.  Mix  all  tlie  iiignslieni-  well, 
and  half  fill  tlie  skins;  boil  them  half  an 
hour. 

SAUSAGES,  BOLOGNA.  Take  the 
legs  and  shoulders  of  a  pig,  from  which  cut 
all  the  lean,  wrape  it  well,  remove  all  thp 
id  nib  the  meat  well  with  a  sea- 
soning made'  of  salt,  pep|ter.  coriander, 
cloTes,  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  and  bay-leaf. 
When  properly  flavored,  tal- 
Lird,  and  leaf,  and  cut  the  whole  into  dire; 


S  A  V 


194 


SCO 


mix  the  fat  and  lean  together,  and  put  it  in- 
to ox-guts,  tie  up  the  ends,  and  lay  the 
sausages  in  a  pan  of  water,  with  salt,  and 
saltpetre ;  cover  the  pan  close,  and  leave  it. 
In  a  week's  time  take  out  the  sausages 
and  drain  them.  Tie  them  between  two 
pieces  of  wood,  hang  them  up  to  dry,  and 
smoke.  When  dry,  untie  them,  and  rub 
each  over  with  oil,  and  the  ashes  of  vine- 
twigs,  mixed  together.  Keep  them  in  a 
dry  place. 

SAUSAGES,  ROYAL.  Mince  small 
the  meat  of  a  partridge,  a  capon,  or  pullet, 
a  piece  of  gammon,  and  other  bacon,  and 
a  bit  of  leg  of  veal ;  shred  also  some  parsley, 
chives,  truffles,  and  mushrooms;  mix  these 
all  together,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
beaten  spice,  and  garlic;  bind  the  whole 
with  the  yolks  of  six,  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
and  a  little  cream ;  when  thoroughly  mixed,  j 
roll  the  preparation  into  thick  pieces,  which 
wrap  in  very  thin  slices  of  fillet  of  veal,  well 
beaten  with  a  rolling-pin;  each  sausage 
should  be  about  the  thickness  of  a  man's 
wrist,  and  of  proportionate  length.  Line  an 
oval  stewpan  with  slices  of  bacon  and  thin 
beef  steaks,  put  in  the  sausages,  cover  them 
with  beefsteaks  and  bacon,  shut  the  stew- 
pan  very  close,  and  set  it  on  a  moderate 
fire,  put  hot  embers  on  the  lid,  and  let  it 
stand  ten  or  twelve  hours ;  then  take  it  off, 
and  when  cold,  take  out  tlie  sausages  care- 
fully, remove  the  veal,  and  all  the  fat,  with 
a  sharp  knife  cut  them  into  slices,  and  serve 
cold. 

SAUSAGES,  SPREADBURY'S.  Cut 
from  the  leg  or  griskin  one  pound  of  nice 
lean  pork,  free  from  sinews  and  skin,  mince 
it  very  finely  :  mince  one  pound  of  the  best 
beef  suet,  mix  it  with  the  pork,  and  pound 
it  as  finely  as  possible  in  a  marble  mortar; 
add  two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  stale  bread 
rnbted  through  a  sieve,  also  a  good  deal  of 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  finely-chopped  sage, 
mix  all  together  with  the  yolks  of  two  eg^s 
beaten  up.  It  will  keep  for  sometime,  if 
put  into  an  earthen  jar  and  pressed  closely 
down.  When  it  is  to  be  used,  make  it  into 
rolls,  and  as  thick  as  common  sausages,  and 
three  or  four  inches  long:  dust  them  with  a 
little  flour;  have  ready  a  frying-pan  made 
very  hot,  and  fry  them  without  any  thing 
but  their  own  fat,  till  they  are  done  quite 
through,  taking  care  not  to  make  them  too 
dry.  By  breaking  one  of  them,  the  cook 
will  know  whether  they  are  sufiiciently 
done.  They  may  be  fried  in  lard  or  fresh 
Iwef  dripping. 

SAVORY. CABBAGE.   See  Cabbage. 
SAVOY  BISCUITS,    To  be  made  as 


drop  biscuits,  omitting  the  caraways,  and 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour :  put  it  into  the 
biscuit-funnel,  and  lay  it  out  about  the  length 
and  size  of  your  finger,  on  common  shop 
paper;  strew  sugar  over,  and  bake  them  in 
a  hot  oven;  when  cold,  wet  the  backs  of  the 
paper  with  a  paste-brush  and  water:  when 
they  have  lain  sometime,  take  them  carefully 
oflf,  and  place  them  kick  to  back. 

SAVOYS,  Are  boiled  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  cabbages;  quarter  them  when  you 
send  them  to  table. 

SCOTCH  BARLEY  BROTH ;  -a  good 
and  substantial  dinner  for  sixpence  per 
head.  W;isli  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
Scotch  barley  in  a  little  cold  water;  put  it 
in  a  soup-pot  with  a  shin  or  teg  of  beef,  of 
about  ten  pounds  weight,  sawed  into  four 
pieces  (tell  the  butcher  to  do  this  (or  you)  ; 
cover  it  well  with  cold  water;  set  it  on  the 
fire:  when  it  boils  skim  it  very  clean,  and 
put  in  two  onions  of  about  three  ounces 
weight  each ;  set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to 
simmer  very  gently  about  two  hours ;  then 
skim  all  the  fat  clean  ofl",  and  put  in  two  lieads 
of  celery,  and  a  large  turnip  cut  into  small 
squares;  season  it  with  salt,  and  let  it  boil 
an  hour  and  a  half  longer,  and  it  is  ready: 
take  out  the  meat  (carefully  with  a  slice, 
and  cover  it  up,  and  set  it  by  the  fire  to  keep 
warm),  and  skim  the  broth  well  before  you 
put  it  in  the  tureen. 

SCOTCH  BROSE.  This  favorite  Scotch 
dish  is  generally  made  with  the  liquor  meat 
has  been  boiled  in.  Put  half  a  pint  of  oat- 
meal into  a  porringer  with  a  little  salt,  if 
there  be  not  enough  in  the  broth,  of  which 
add  as  much  as  will  mix  it  to  the  consistence 
of  hasty  pudding,  or  a  little  thicker;  lastly, 
take  a  little  of  the  fat  that  swims  on  tlie 
broth,  and  put  it  on  the  crowdie,  and  eat  it 
in  the  same  way  as  hasty-pudding. 

Obs. — This  Scotsman's  dish  is  easilv  pre- 
pared at  very  little  expense,  and  is  pleasant- 
tasted  and  nutritious. 

N.  B. — For  various  methods  of  making 
and  flavoring  oatmeal  gruel,  see  Gruel. 

SCOTCH  BURGOO.  This  humble  dish 
forms  no  contemptible  article  of  food.  It 
-  the  grand  qualities  of  salubrity, 
pleasantness,  and  cheapness.  It  is,  in  fact, 
a  sort  of  oatmeal  hasty  pudding  without 
milk ;  much  used  by  those  patterns  of  com- 
bined industry,  frugality,  and  temperance, 
the  Scottish  peasantry;  and  diis,  among 
other  examples  of  the  economical  Scotch,  is 
well  worthy  of  being  occasionally  adopted 
1>\  all  who  have  large  families  and  small  in- 
comes. It  is  made  in  the  following  easy  and 
expeditious  manner : — To  a  quart  of  oatmeal 


SCO 


195 


SHE 


add  gradually  two  quarts  of  water,  so  that 
the  whole  may  smoothly  mix :  then  stirring 
it  continually  over  the  fire,  boil  it  together  for 
n  quarter  of  an  hour ;  alter  which,  tike  it  up, 
and  stir  in  a  little  salt  and  butter,  with  or 
without  pep|X.-r.  This  quantity  will  serve  a 
family  of  five  or  six  persons  for  a  moderate 
meal. 

SCOTS  COLLOPS.  Cut  some  very 
thin  slices  of  beef;  rub  with  butter  die  bot- 
tom of  an  iron  stewpan  that  h,i-  a  cover  to 
fit  quite  closely;  put  in  tlie  meat,  some  pep- 
per, and  a  little  silt,  a  large  onion,  and  an 
apple  minced  very  small.  Cover  the  stew- 
)»an,  and  let  it  .-immer  till  the  meat  is  very 
tender.  Serve  it  hot. 

SCOTCH  DIMPLING.    Make  a  paste 

with  some  iiatmcal  and  butter,  form  it  into 
a  dimpling,  anil  place  a  haddock's  liver 
in  tlie  middle,  well  seasoned  with  pepper 
and  salt;  it  should  be  boiled  in  a  cloth. 

SCOTCH  HAGGIS.     Make  the  ha-is- 

bag  peilectly  clean;  parlx>il  the  diaii^tit; 
boil  the  liter  very  well,  so  as  it  will  :.'i,iie; 
dry  the  meal  before  tlie  fire;  mince  the 
draught  and  a  pretty  large  piece  of  beef  very 
small;  grate  about  half  of  tin-  liver;  mince 

plenty    of    tin-  MH-t    and   soim IOILS   small; 

mix  all  tile*;  materials  very  well  together, 
with  a  handful  or  two  of  the  dried  meal; 
spread  them  on  die  table,  and  season  them 
pro|x-ily  with  salt  and  mixed  spi<  • 
any  of  llie  -rr.ip-  wf  !«•<  f  that  are  left  from 
mincing  i  the  water  that  Ixiiled 

jit,  and  make  alxiut  a  choppin  (i.e. 
a  quart)  of  gt»id  stock  of  it ;  then  put  all  the 
;    it  into  the  li;iii,  and  that  liroth  in 
it  ;   then  sew  up  the  Ui^' ;   ''•' 
outall  the  uin<:  A  it  quite  close. 

If  you  think  the  Ixig  is  thin,  yon  may  put 
it  in  a  clolh.  If  it  is  a  lari;e  lia^'is,  it  will 
tak<-  at  lea-it  two  h»u 

.V   I'.. — Tli.  '[lied  verbatim 

,  a  celebrated  C.ilrd.,- 

111:111  pi'ilr-.-or  of  the;  culinary  art,  who 
taujlit,  and  published  a  Ixjok  of  cookery,  at 
Ediubui-h,  A.  1).  i: 

-  KALE.     Put  Inrley  on  in  cold 

water,  anil  when  it  l*>iU  take  oil'  the  .-mm, 
ptit  in  aii)  piece'  of  fn.-li  IHI  f,  and  a  little 
salt;  let  it  boil  three  hom-.  h.i\e  ready  a 
cullender  full  of  kale,  cut  .-mall  and  boil  them 
till  tender.  Two  or  tlnee  leeks  may  be  ad- 
ded with  die  greens,  if  the  tiavi.r  i-  appro\.  d 
of.  Thi.-  I/roth  i.-  al.-.  in. id.-  with  salted 
beef,  which  must  be  put  in  water  over  night 
to  soak. 

SCOTCH    SHORT   BREAD.      Take; 
two  pounds  of  Hour,  dry,  and  sift   it  well; 


then  mix  with  it  a  pound  of  powder-sugar, 
three  ounces  of  candied  citron  and  orange- 
peel  cut  into  dice,  and  half  a  pound  of  cara- 
way comfits ;  put  half  a  |K>und  of  butter  into  a 
saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  quite 
melted,  mix  it  with  the  (lour,  &c. ;  i 
Ix'iug  nicely  made,  roll  it  out  to  the  thickness 
of  half  an  inch,  cut  it  into  cakes,  lay  them 
on  white  paper,  prick  and  bake  them ;  they 
should  be  of  a  pale  color. 

SEA  CALE,  BOILED.  Let  it  liesome- 
time  in  cold  water,  dien  clean  and  trim  it 
nicely,  cutting  off  any  part  that  may  be  at 
all  green,  and  parting  it  as  little  as  possi- 
ble. Put  it  on  in  boiling  water,  with  a  lit- 
ii.- -.di.  Let  it  boil  half  an  hour ;  drain  off 
tlie  water.  Pare  die  crust  off  a  slice  of 
t.  >asted  bread,  lay  it  in  tlie  dish,  pour  over 
it  a  little  melted  butter,  and  serve  the  cule 
upon  it. 

SEED  CAKE.  Sift  two  and  a  half 
pounds  of  Hour,  with  half  a  pound  of  good 
white  or  loaf  sugar,  pounded  into  a  pan  or 

Ixiwl ;  make  a  ca\  ity  in  the  centre,  and  [xiur 
in  half  a  pint  of  lukewarm  milk,  and  a  ta- 
ble-«poonful  of  thick  yeast;  mix,  tlie  milk 
•  with  enough  (lour  to  make  it  as 
thick  as  cream  (this  is  called  setting  a 
swinge);  set  it  by  in  a  warm  place  for  one 
hour;  in  the  meantime,  melt  to  an  oil  half  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  add  it  to  die  other 
ingredients,  with  one  ounce  of  caraway- 
seeds,  and  enough  of  milk  to  make  it  of  a 
middling  stillness ;  line  a  hoop  with  paper, 
well  rubbed  over  with  butter;  put  in  the 

-et  it  sometime  to  prove  i.> 
••r  liefore  the    lire,  and  kike  it  on  a  plate 
alxnit  an  hour,  in  rather  a  hot  oven;   when 
done,  rub  the  top  over  with  a  pane-brush 
dip|x-d  in  milk. 

SHKKI-S     KIDNDYS,     BROILED. 

\Va-h  anil  dry  some  uii-e  kidneys,  cut  them 
in  half  and  with  a  small  skewer  kc-ep  them 
o|NMi  in  imitation  of  two  shells,  season  diem 
wiih  salt  and  |>e|>|x-r,  and  dip  (hem  into  a 
little  fresh  melted  butter.  Broil  tirst  tlie  aide 
that  is  cut,  and  be  careful  not  to  let  the  gravy 
drop  in  taking  them  off  tlie  gridiron.  Serve 
ihem  in  a  hot  di-h,  with  Inn  K-chopped  pars- 
I'  >  mixed  with  melted  butter,  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  |x>pper  and  salt,  puttini;  a  little  upon 
each  kidney.  This  is  an  excellent  break- 
•fast  for  a  sportsman. 

SHEEP'S  LIVER.  Cut  it  into  slices; 
wash  it  well,  and  dry  it  in  a  cloth;  floor 
and  season  it  w  ith  ix-pper  and  salt,  and  fry 

it  in  butler,  with  a  good  deal  of  minced 
I  u-l.-\  and  an  onion;  adda  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  gravy  or  hot  wulcr  to  make  a  sauce, 
and  let  it  *tew  a  few  minutes.  It  may  bo 


SHE 


196 


SHR 


fried  quite  plain,  and  when  cut  into  slices, 
should  be  washed  in  milk  and  water. 

SHEEP'S  MINCE.  Wash  the  heart 
and  lights  very  clean ;  tail  them  alxiiit  half 
an  hour;  mince  them  finely ;  mix  a  piece  of 
butter  with  Hour,  brown  it  in  a  stewpan,  and 
add  some  of  the  liquor  the  heart  and  limits 
were  boiled  in.  Put  in  the  mince  with  some 
chopped  onion ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
cover  it  closely,  and  let  it  stew  half  an  boor. 
Before  serving,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  mush- 
room ketchup. 

SHEEP'S    TONGUES,    BROILED. 

Having  parboiled  the  tongues  in  a  little 
stock,  split  each,  give  them  a  few  turns  in 
some  melted  bacon,  strewing  over  them  salt, 
pepper,  shred  parsley,  and  bread  crumbs; 
when  well  covered  with  the  latter,  lay  diem 
oil  a  gridiron,  and  broil  Uiein  slowly. 

SHEEP'S  TONGUES  PIE.  Line  a 
dish  with  some  good  puff  paste,  and  lay  at 
tile  bottom  of  the  dish  some  good  forcemeat, 
made  of  rousted  poultry,  suet,  parsley  chop- 
|K-d,  mushroom?,  |>epper  and  salt,  and  a  few 
line  spices;  upon  this  place  the  tongues  cut 
in  two,  and  upon  them  a  good  slice  of  ham, 
a  little  butter,  and  a  few  slices  of  bacon; 
put  on  the  cover  and  bake  it;  when  done, 
take  out  the  bacon  and  ham,  skim  off  all  the 
fat,  and  pour  on  it  what  sauce  you  please. 

SHEEP'S  TONGUES  ROASTED. 
Take  half  a  dozen  sheep's  tongues,  and  hav- 
ing properly  prepared  them,  lard  them  with 
small  lardons,  tie  them  to  a  skewer,  wrap 
a  buttered  paper  round,  and  fasten  them  on 
a  spit,  and  roast  them  before  a  moderate 
fire;  a  little  before  they  are  done,  take  off 
die  paper,  baste  the  tongues  with  butter, 
and  make  them  of  a  nice  color.  Serve  with 
whatever  sauce  you  may  prefer. 

SHEEP'S  TROTTERS  STUFFED. 
Boil  the  feet  in  good  stock  till  die  bones 
will  come  out  with  ease ;  fill  tlie  space  left 
by  them  with  a  good  fowl  or  chicken  farce; 
dip  them  in  lard,  bread  them  well,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven.  The  space  left  by  die 
bones  is  sometimes  filled  up  with  a  bit  of 
fried  bread ;  in  this  case  die  feet  are  only 
previously  boiled,  and  then  served  with 
cream  sauce. 

SHEEP'S  TROTTERS  FRIED.  Clean 
some  sheep's  trotters  nicely,  scald  and  wash 
them  in  hot  water;  stew  them  in  that  sauce 
in  which  CALF'S  HEAD  PLAI.N  is  boiled, 
and  bone  them.  Fry,  but  not  till  brown, 
iu  a  little  butter,  some  carrots,  onions,  a 
Hide  parsley  roots,  all  cut  small,  thyme,  a 
shallot,  a  small  bay  leaf,  and  a  clove.  When 


they  begin  to  color,  moisten  them  with  wa- 
ter ;md  viwgar  mixed  in  equal  parts,  and  let 
it  all  stew  till  the  vegetables  are  quite  ten- 
-"ii  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  strain 
it  through  a  silk  sieve  over  the  sheep's  trot- 
t  MS,  then  fry  the-  trotters  in  this  batter;  put 
nearly  four  table-spoonful:;  of  flour  into  aft 
earthen  pan,  with  a  little  salt,  a  little  olive 
oil,  and  as  much  good  brer  or  water  as  will 
moisten  the  paste ;  when  well  mixed,  add 
(he  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  dip  the  trot- 
ters into  this,  and  fry  them  instantly.  The 
marinade  cuite,  or  pickle,  into  which  the 
trotters  are  laid,  and  the  paste  in  which  they 
are  fried,  may  be  used  for  beef,  and  other 
meats.  The  same  receipt  may  be  followed 
exactly  for  calf's  feet. 

SHERBET.  Tliis  is  a  delicious  bever- 
age, composed  of  cream,  mixed  with  various 
articles,  such  as  almonds,  tea,  pistachios, 
coffee,  chocolate,  &c.,  and  snsrar,  and  then 
iced.  Sherbet  may  also  be  made  with  the 
juice  of  various  fruits,  sweetened  to  the 
taste.  When  the  liquid  is  sufficiently  lim- 
pid and  cold,  pour  it  into  a  silver,  or  tin 
sorbetiere,  and  ice  it  as  usual. 

SHERBET,  TURKISH.  Wash  a  small 
fore  quarter  of  veal,  put  it  on  the  fire  with 
nine  pints  of  water;  skim  it  well,  and  let  it 
boil  till  reduced  to  two  pints ;  nin  it  through 
UK!  when  cold,  add  to  it  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  clear  lemon-juice,  and  two  pounds 
<'f  loaf  MI  gar  which  has  been  made  into  a 
sirup  widi  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  and 
cleared  with  the  white  of  an  egg.  It  is 
served  in  glass  mugs  for  a  dessert  table,  or 
offered  at  any  oUier  time  as  a  refreshment. 

SHRUB.     (1)     One  measure  of  lemon- 
:  juice  is  allowed  to  five  of  mm,  and  to  every 
gallon  of  the  mixture,  six  pounds  of  loaf  su- 
gar, which  is  to  l>e  melted  in  water,  and  the 
whole  strained  through  flannel. 

SHRUB.  (2)  To  one  part  of  lemon- 
juice,  three  of  good  orange  are  allowed, 
and,  to  every  pint  of  juice,  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  very  finely-pounded  loaf  sugar ;  these 
being  well  mixed,  it  is  put  into  a  cask,  and 
one  quart  of  the  best  rum  added  to  each  pint 
of  the  juice;  the  whole  to  be  shaken  three 
times  a-day  for  a  fortnight,  or  longer,  if  the 
cask  IK:  large.  It  is  then  allowed  to  stand 

1  to  fine  for  a  month,  or  till  it  be  sufficiently 
clear  to  Ixittle.  The  dregs  may  be  made 
into  excellent  milk  punch,  by  pouring  warm, 
but  not  boiling,  milk  on  them,  allowing  diree 

',  parts  of  milk  to  one  of  dregs;  after  being 
well  mixed,  it  is  fit  for  use. 

SHRI'B.  (3)  Put  a  quart  of  Seville 
orange-juice  to  a  gallon  of  rum,  with  three 


SIR 


197 


SKA 


pounds  of  lump  sugar,  and  a  handful  of  the 
peel  pored  extremely  thin ;  let  it  stand  in  the 
cask  for  three  months,  then  filter  it  through 
a  cloth,  and  bottle  it. 

SHRUB.  (4)  Take  a  quart  of  orange- 
juice,  strain  it,  put  to  it  two  pounds  of  lump 
sugar,  four  quarts  and  one  pint  of  nun ;  put 
half  the  peels  of  the  oranges  into  the  rum, 
ami  let  it  stand  one  night,  then  mix  the  rum 
with  the  orange-juice  and  sugar,  put  it  into 
a  vessel  which  ha-  a  spirit,  shake  it  four  or 
live  times  daily  till  the  sugar  be  all  dissolved ; 
when  it  is  clear,  whirl)  may  lie  in  about  a 
fortnight,  Ijottle  it  off  for  use.  If  the  or- 
anges are  very  ripe,  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
sugar  is  snlliciont. 

SHRUB,  LEMON  OR  ORANGE.  The 

rind  of  tlie  lemons  or  oranges  being  grated 
off,  ilicy  are  to  be  squeezed,  and  two  |x<unds 
of  finefy-pouoded  loaf  sugar  is  to  be  added 
to  every  pint  of  the  strained  juice;  when  the 
sugar  is  quite  dissolved,  two  pints  of  rum 
;ne  allowed  to  every  pint  of  sirup;  tlie  whole 
is  to  be  well  mixed  in  a  cask,  and  allowed 
to  stand  five  or  six  weeks,  and  then  drawn 
off. 

SHRUB,  WHITE   CURRANT.    The 

currants  are  to  be  bruised  and  put  into  a 
Lag  to  drip;  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
loaf  sugar  is  to  be  dissolved  in  two  quarts 
of  juice,  and  a  quart  of  rum  being  added,  it 
is  to  be  bottled  for  use. 

SUM  IMIK  CURRANTS, RASPBER- 
R1K.S,  OR  MULBERRIES.  Pick  the  fruit 
from  the  stalks;  squeeze  the  juice,  and  let  it 
Main!  ten  days  or  a  fortnight,  or  till  the  fer- 
inentali.il)  ceax-s,  which  may  lx-  known  liy 
tile  scum  cracking;  ran  •fully  take  off  the 
scum,  and  (Hiiir  the  juice  gently  into  a  fresh 
vessel;  let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours,  and 
again  pour  it  off,  to  one  pound  of  pounded 
loaf  sugar  allow  thirteen  ounces  of  the  juice, 
(nit  it  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  when  it  lie- 
gins  to  lx>il,  strain  it  through  a  jelly-ling, 
and  Ixittlc  it  when  cold.  Burie  pears  boiled, 
in  a  little  of  the  sirup,  are  beautiful. 

SIRUP  OF  ORANGE  OR   LEMON 

IT.r.l..  Offresh  outer  rind  of  Seville  orange 
or  lemon  |>eel,  three  ounces,  apothecaries' 
weight;  boiling  water  a  pint  and  a  half ;  in- 
fuse them  for  a  night  in  a  close  vessel;  then 
strain  the  liquor:  let  it  stand  to  settle;  and 
having  [xmrcd  it  off  clear  from  the  sediment, 
dissolve  in  it  two  pounds  uf  donhle-refined 
k>af  siii;:o  ,  and  make  it  into  a  sirup  with  a 
gentle  he.it. 

Obs. — In  making  this  sirup,  if  the  sugar 
be  dissolved  in  the  infusion  with  as  gentle  a 
heat  as  possible,  to  prevent  tin;  exhalation 
17* 


of  the  volatile  parts  of  the  peel,  this  sirup 
will  possess  a  great  share  of  the  fine  flavor 
of  the  orange  or  lemon  peel. 

SIRUP,  CLARIFIED.  Break  into  bits 
two  pounds  (avoirdupois)  of  double-refined 
lump  sugar,  and  put  it  into  a  clean  stcwpan 
(that  is  well  tinned),  with  a  pint  of  cold 
spring  water;  when  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
set  it  over  a  moderate  fire:  beat  aljout  half 
the  white  of  an  egg,  put  it  to  the  sugar  be- 
fore it  gets  warm,  and  stir  it  well  together. 
Watch  it ;  and  when  it  boils  take  off  the 
scum ;  keep  it  boiling  till  no  scum  rises,  and 
it  is  perfectly  clear;  then  run  it  through  a 
clean  napkin:  put  it  into  a  close-stopped 
bottle;  it  will  keep  for  months,  and  is  an 
elegant  article  on  the  sideboard  for  sweet- 
ening. 

Oo*. — Tl»e  proportion  of  sugar  ordered  in 
the  alxive  sirup  is  a  quarter  pound  more  than 
that  directed  in  the  Pharmacopeia  of  the 
London  College  of  Physicians.  The  quanti- 
ty of  sugar  must  be  as  much  as  the  liquor  is 
capable  of  keeping  dissolved  when  cold,  or 
it  will  ferment,  and  quickly  spoil:  if  kept  in 
a  teni|xTaie  degree  of  heat,  the  above  pro- 
portion of  sugar  may  be  considered  the  basis 
•  of  all  sirups. 

SKATE,  FRIED.  After  you  have 
cleaned  the  fish,  divide  it  into  fillets;  dry 
them  on  a  clean  cloth ;  Ix-at  the  yolk  and 
white  of  an  egg  thoroughly  together,  dip  the 
fish  in  this,  and  then  in  line  bread-crumbs; 
fry  it  in  hot  lard  or  drippings  till  it  is  of  a 
delicate  brown  color ;  lay  it  on  a  hair  sieve 
to  drain;  garnish  with  crisp  parsley,  and 
some  like  caper  sauce,  with  an  anchovy 
in  it. 

SKATE,  TO  CRIMP.  Skin  the  skate 
on  both  sides,  cut  it  an  inch  and  a  half 
broad,  and  as  long  as  tin-  skate,  roll  up  each 
piece  and  tie  it  with  a  thread ;  lay  them  for 
three  hours  in  salt  and  water,  and  a  little 
vinegar;  boil  them  fifteen  minutes  in  boiling 
salt  and  water;  Ix't'oie  serving,  cut  off  the 
threads.  Sauces: — shrimp,  butter  and  an- 
chovy. When  tlie  skate  are  very  small,  they 
are  preferable  broiled. 

SKATE,  LARGE,  DRESSED  LIKE 
VEAL  CPTLETS.  Crimp,  or  cut  the  skate 
in  square  pieces,  roll  them  in  beaten  eggs, 
and  then  in  grated  bread  mixed  with  chop- 
ped |  tii  .-lev .  pepper,  and  salt ;  fry  tlmn  of  a 
nice  brown  color,  and  serve  with  a  rich 
brown  grav\ . 

SKATE,  STEWED.  Skin  tlie  skate, 
art  it  into  square  pit-res,  ami  l>rown  it  with 
l.iitter  in  a  living-pan;  make  a  rich  sauce 
with  tlie  skin  and  parings,  to  be  boiled  in. 


SNI 


198 


SOL 


three  pints  of  water,  with  an  oninn,  some 
pepper  and  salt;  strain  and  thicken  it  with 
a  little  butter  mixed  with  flour,  add  some 
very  finely  chopped  parsley,  and  chives ;  of 
hot  vinegar,  mushroom  ketchup,  and  Harvey 
sauce,  a  table-spoonful  each,  and  a  little 
cayenne ;  boil  it  up  and  put  it  in  the  skate 
five  minutes  before  serving  it. 

SKATE,  Is  very  good  when  in  good 
eeason,  but  no  fish  so  bad  when  it  is  other- 
wise: those  persons  that  like  it  firm  and  dry, 
should  have  it  crimped ;  but  those  that  like 
it  tender,  should  have  it  plain,  and  eat  it 
not  earlier  than  the  second  day,  and  if  cold 
weather,  three  or  four  days  old  it  is  better: 
it  cannot  be  kept  too  long,  if  perfectly  sweet. 
Young  skate  eats  very  tine  crimped  and 
fried. 

SKATE,  SMALL,  TO  FRY.  Clean, 
wash,  and  lay  them  one  or  two  hours  in  vin- 
egar, or  vinegar  and  water,  with  a  sliced 
onion,  some  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  and 
salt;  drain  and  dry  them  well,  dip  them  into 
beaten  eggs,  dredge  them  with  flour,  and  fry 
them  of  a  fine  brown  color;  garnish  them 
•with  fried  parsley.  Sauces ; — melted  butter, 
and  shrimp  sauce. 

SKIRRETS.  Wash  and  scrape  them, 
put  them  on  in  boiling  water,  and  boil  them 
for  ten  minutes;  dry  them  in  a  cullender, 
and  fry  them  brown  in  a  little  butter.  They 
are  sometimes  plain  boiled,  and  a  little  mel- 
ted butter  poured  over  them. 

SMELTS,  TO  FRY.  This  delicate  lit- 
tle fish,  when  perfectly  fresh,  must  not  be 
washed,  but  wiped  with  a  clean  cloth,  and 
dredged  with  flour,  or  brushed  over  with  a 
feather,  dipped  into  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beat- 
en, and  rolled  in  a  plate  of  finely-grated 
bread-crumbs,  and  fried  in  boiling  dripping, 
or  fresh  lard.  They  vary  in  size,  and  some 
will  be  done  sooner  than  others.  When  of 
a  clear  yellow  brown,  take  them  out  careful- 
ly, ;ind  lay  them  before  the  fire  upon  the  back 
of  a  sieve  to  drain  and  keep  hot.  Dish 
them,  heads  and  tails  alternately;  garnish 
with  fried  parsley.  Sauce — melted  butter. 
They  may  also  te  broiled. 

SMELTS,  ITALIAN.  Boil  your  smelts 
with  a  large  glass  of  white  wine,  half  a  glass 
of  water,  two  spoonfuls  of  oil,  two  slices  of 
lemon,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  pinch  of  fennel. 
When  sufficiently  done,  make  a  liaison  with 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  shred  chervil,  and  serve 
your  fish  with  its  own  sauce. 

SNIPES.  When  the  snipes  have  been 
picked,  they  must  be  singed  over  a  charcoal 
fire;  in  tracing  tliem  press  the  legs  close  to 


the  side,  and  pierce  the  beak  through  them ; 
tie  a  slice  of  baron  over  each  bird,  run  a  long 
iron  skewer  through  the  sides,  apd  tie  them 
to  the  spit;  in  the  meantime  cut  two  or  three 
slices  of  bread,  according  to  the  number  of 
the  birds,  fry  them  of  a  tine  brown  color  in 
butter;  put  the  birds  to  must,  and  put  the 
fried  bread  in  a  dish  under  them,  to  receive 
the  inside,  which  will  drop  after  they  have 
hung  a  few  minutes;  just  before  they  are 
roasted  sufficiently,  cut  off  the  bacon,  that 
they  may  take  color.  Serve  them  on  the 
dish  with  the  bread  under  them,  and  plenty 
of  good  gravy.  Some  prefer  eating  them 
with  butter  only,  considering  that  gravy 
takes  off  from  the  fine  flavor  of  the  bird. 
They  should  be  carved  [lie  same  as  fowls  or 
pigeons,  and  the  head  should  be  opened,  as 
some  are  fond  of  the  brains.  Snipes  are 
generally  dressed  in  the  same  manner  as 
woodcocks. 

SNOW-BALLS,  BOILED  IN  BUT- 
TER. Mix  with  six  well-beaten  eggs  one 
pint  and  a  half  of  sour  cream,  and  add  by 
decrees  as  much  (lour  as  will  make  the  bat- 
ter thick  enough  for  the  spoon  to  stand  in 
it;  sweeten  it  with  brown  sugar,  and  put 
in  a  few  cardamons;  stir  into  this  mixture 
half  a  pint  of  beer,  beat  it  all  well  to- 
gether, and  drop  it  with  a  dessert-spoon 
into  some  boiling  lard,  or  butter.  Drain 
them  upon  a  towel  before  the  fire,  and  serve 
them  in  a  napkin,  with  sugar  sifted  over 
them. 

SNOW  CHEESE.  Sweeten,  with  poun- 
ded loaf  sugar,  a  quart  of  good  cream ;  add 
the  strained  juice  of  three  lemons,  and  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  blanched  sweet 
pounded,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  rose- 
water,  and  one  of  ratafia.  Beat  it  with  a 
whisk  till  thick,  and  put  it  into  a  shape  or 
sieve  with  a  bit  of  muslin  laid  into  it,  ami 
in  twelve  hours  take  it  out. 

SODA  WATER.  Tartaric  acid  half 
an  ounce,  arated  soda,  half  an  ounce.  Have 
two  tumblers  about  one-third  full  of  water, 
put  a  tea-spoonful  of  the  soda  into  one  glass, 
and  the  same  of  the  acid  into  the  other; 
when  dissolved,  mix  them  together,  and 
drink  it  immediately.  The  two  sorts  of  salts 
must  be  kept  in  separate  bottles,  and  should 
be  bought  ready  powdered. 

SOLES  OR  OTHER  FISH,  TO  FRY. 

An  hour  before  you  intend  to  dress  them, 
wash  them  thoroughly,  and  wrap  them  in  a 
clean  cloth,  to  make  them  perfectly  dry,  or 
the  bread-crumbs  will  not  stick  to  them. 

Prepare  some  bread-crumbs,  by  rubbing 
some  stale  bread  through  a  colander;  or, 
if  )ou  wish  the  fish  to  appear  very  delicate 


SOL 


199 


SOL 


and  highly  finished,  through  a  hair  sieve;  or 
ose  biscuit  (xiwder. 

Heat  the  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg  well 
.  on  a  pliitf,  with  a  fork;  flour  your 
li.-li.  to  absorb  :iny  moisture  that  may  remain, 
and  wipe  it  otV  with  a  clean  cloth  ;  dip  them 
in  tiic  CLTU'  "ii  both  sides  all  over,  or,  what 
is  IM-UIT,  c.'ir  tin  in  with  a  |>aste-lirnsh ;  put 
die  egg  o;i  in  an  even  degree  over  the  whole 
fish,  or  tlie  I ii  i  ad  crumbs  will  not  stick 
to  it  even,  and  tl>e  uneven  part  will  burn 
to  the  pan.  Strew  the  bread  crumbs  all 
over  tin-  ti-h.  so  that  they  cover  every  part, 
take  up  the  fish  by  the  head,  and  shake  off 
the  loose  crumb-.  The  fish  u  now  ready 
for  the  fry  ing-pun,  into  which  put  a  quart 
or  more  of  fre>h  sweet  olive  oil,  or  clar- 
ified butter,  dripping,  lard,  or  clarified  drip- 
pings; I*-  sine  that  they  are  quite  sweet 
and  perfectly  clean  (the  fat  ought  to  cover 
the  fish):  what  we  lien:  order  is  for  soles 
about  ten  inches  long;  if  larger,  cut  them 
into  pieces  the  proper  size  to  help  at  table ; 
this  will  save  much  time  and  trouble  to  the 
carver:  when  yon  send  them  to  table,  lay 
them  in  It:.-  -  i:;ie  firm  they  were  lief.ire  they 
were  cut,  ami  you  may  strew  a  little  curled 
:  over  them:  they  are  much  easier 

managed  in  the  I'.-ying-pan,  and  require  less 
fill:  fiy  the  thick  part  a  few  minutes  before 
you  put  in  the  thin,  you  can  by  this  means 
only  fry  the  thick  part  enough,  without  fry- 
ing till  thin  too  much.  Very  large  soles 
lilionld  Ix;  Ixiiled,  or  fried  in  fillets.  Soles 
cut  in  piece?,  crossways,  about  the  size  of  a 
cinch,  make  a  \eiy  pretty  garnish  for  stewed 
fish  ami  Ixiiled  fish. 

Set  the  fryins-jxin  over  a  sharp  and  clear 
fire;  wati-h  it,  skim  it  with  an  egg-slice, and 
wlietl  it  Ijoils,  t.  e.  when  it  lias  done  bub- 
bling, and  the  smoke  just  liegins  to  rise  from 
"•e,  put  in  the  li.-h:  if  (lie  fat  is  not 
extremely  hot,  it  la  impossible  to  fry  finh 
of  a  g'xld  color,  or  to  keep  them  firm  and 
crisp. 

The  liest  way  to  ascertain  the  heat  of  tlie 
fat,  is  to  i ry  it  with  a  bit  of  bread  as  big  as 
a  nut;  it"  it  i-  quite  hot  enough,  the  bread 
will  brown  immediately.  Put  in  tlie  fish, 
and  it  will  lie  crisp  and  brown  on  the  side 
next  tin-  (iie.  in  about  four  or  live  minutes; 
to  turn  it,  suck  a  two-pronged  fork  near  the 
head,  and  snp|>ort  the  tail  with  a  fish-slice, 
and  fry  the  other  side  nearly  the  same  length 
of  time.  Fry  one  sole  ;ft  a  time,  except  the 
|xm  is  very  large,  a,,,|  \,,n  have  plenty  of  fat. 

\\  hen  the  tish  are  (Vied,  lay  ilwin  on  a  wilt 
cloth  (old  table-cloths  are  best),  near  enough 
.the  fire  to  keep  them  warm;  turn  tliem 
every  two  or  three  minutes,  till  tliey  are 
quite  dry  on  Imth  sides;  this  common  cooks 
commonly  neglect.  It  u  ill  take  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes,  if  the  fat  you  fried  tliem  in  was  not 
hot  enough;  when  it  is,  they  want  veiv  little 


drying.  When  soles  are  fried,  they  will 
keep  very  good  in  a  dry  place  for  three  or 
four  days;  warm  tliem  by  hanging  tliem  on 
the  hooks  in  a  Dutch  oven,  letting  them  heat 
very  gradually,  by  putting  it  some  distance 
from  the  fire  for  about  twenty  minutes,  or  in 
good  gravy,  as  eels,  Wiggy's  way. 

Obt. — There  are  several  general  rules  in 
this  receipt  which  apply  to  all  fried  fish  : 
we  have  been  rery  particular  and  minute  in 
our  directions;  for,  although  a  fried  sole  is 
i«o  frequent  and  favorite  a  dish,  it  is  very 
seldom  brought  to  table  in  perfection. 

SOLES,  TO  BOIL.  A  fine,  fresh,  thick 
sole  is  almost  as  good  eating  as  a  turhot. 
Wash  and  clean  it  nicely;  put  it  into  a  fish- 
kettle  with  a  handful  of  salt,  and  as  much 
cold  water  as  will  cover  it ;  set  it  on  tlie  side 
of  the  fire,  take  off  tlie  scum  as  it  rises,  and 
let  it  boil  gently;  about  five  minutes  (accord- 
ing to  its  size)  will  be  long  enough,  unless 
it  be  very  large.  Send  it  up  on  a  fish-drain- 
er, garnished  with  slices  of  lemon  and  sprigs 
of  curled  parsley,  or  nicely-fried  smelts,  or 

oyj-ters. 

"  Obs. — Slices  of  lemon  are  a  universally 
acceptable  garnish  with  either  fried  orbroif- 
ed  fish:  a  few  sprigs  of  crisp  parsley  may  IK: 
added,  if  yon  wish  to  make  it  look  very 
smart ;  and  parsley,  or  fennel  and  butter,  are 
excellent  sauces,  or  chervil  sauce,  or  anchovy. 

SOLES,  TO  DRESS  MAIGRE.  Put 
the  fish  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  large  onion, 
four  cloves,  fifteen  berries  of  allspice,  and  the 
same  of  black  pepper ;  just  cover  tliem  with 
boiling  water,  set  it  where  they  will  simmer 
gently  for  ten  or  twenty  minutes,  according 
to  i  he  si/.c  of  the  tish;  strain  off  the  liqnor 
in  another  :-tew|>an,  leaving  the  fish  to  keep 
warm  till  the  sauce  is  ready.  Rub  together 
on  a  plate  as  much  flour  and  butter  as  will 
make  the  sauce  as  thick  as  a  double  cream. 
Each  pint  of  sauce  season  with  a  .glass  of 
wine,  half  as  much  mushroom  ketchup,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  and  a  few 
grains  of  cavenne;  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes, 
put  the  fish  on  a  deep  dish,  strain  the  gravy 
over  it;  garnish  it  with  sippets  of  bread 
toasted  or  fried. 

SOLE,  CARP,  TROUT,  PERCH.  EEL, 
OR  FLOUNDER,  TO  STEW.  When  the  fiah 
lias  been  pro|x-rly  washed,  lay  it  in  a  stew- 
|ian,  with  half  a  "pint  of  claret  or  Port  wine, 
and  a  quart  of  good  gravy,  a  large  onion,  a 
down  lierries  of  black  |x-p|X-r,  the  same  of 
allspice,  ami  a  few  cloves,  or  a  bit  of  mace: 
cover  the  fish-kettle  clone,  and  let  it  stew 
gently  for  ten  or  twenty  minutes,  according 
to  tlie  thickness  of  the  fish:  take  the  ti.-h  up, 
lay  it  on  a  hot  dish,  cover  it  up,  and  thicken 
the  li<pior  it  was  .-tewed  in  with  a  little 


sou 


200 


SOUPS 


fltmr,  and  season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  essence 
of  anchovy,  mushroom  ketchup,  and  a  little 
Chili  vinegar;  when  it  has  boiled  ten  min- 
utes, strain  it  through  a  tamis,  and  pour  it 
over  the  fish:  if  there  is  more  sauce  than 
i  In1  dish  will  hold,  send  the  rest  up  in  a  boat. 
The  river  trout  comes  into  season  in  April, 
and  continues  till  July;  it  is  a  delicious  fish. 

SORREL,  TO  STEW.  Strip  the  leaves 
from  the  stalks,  wash  them  well,  scald  them 
in  boiling  water  in  a  silver  saucepan,  or  in 
an  earthern  pipkin  ;  strain  and  stew  them  in 
a  little  gravy  till  tender.  Serve  with  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  in  quarters. 


,  IN  GRAVY.  Mince,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  butter,  bacon, 
parsley,  and  scallions;  add  a  glass  of  con- 
somme; set  it  over  a  moderate  fire,  and 
when  quite  soft,  put  to  it  some  fowl  gravy,  or 
veal  blond.  Blake  the  sauce  thick,  and  do 
not  let  it  boil,  cover  the  sorrel  when  served. 

SORREL  OMELET.  Pick,  wash,  and 
blanch  some  sorrel,  cut  it  in  pieces,  and 
fry  it  lightly  in  a  little  butter,  with  shred 
parsley  and  scullions;  then  put  the  sorrel 
into  a  saucepan,  with  a  little  cream;  season, 
and  let  it  boil  slowly;  in  the  meantime  make 
an  omelet  in  the  u.-ual  way,  lay  it  tin  a  dish, 
thicken  the  sorrel  with  the  yolks  of  two  egp, 
pour  it  on  the  omelet,  and  serve  it  very  hot. 

SOUFFLEJ,  APPLE.  Prepare  apples 
as  for  baking  in  a  pudding,  put  them  into  a 
deep  dish,  and  lav  upon  the  top,  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  thick,  rice  boiled  in  new 
milk  with  sugar;  beat  to,  a  stift"  froth  the 
whiles  gf  two  or  three  eggs,  with  a  little 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  lay  it  upon  the  rice,  and 
bake  it  in  an  oven  a  light  brown.  Serve  it 
instantly  when  done. 

SOUfFLET,  RICH.  Soak  in  white 
wine  and  a  little  brandy,  sweetened  with  su- 
gar, some  slices  of  sponge  cake  ;  put  them 
into  a  deep  dish,  and  pour  over  them  a  rich 
custard  ;  beat  to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of 
three  or  four  eggs,  and  with  a  table-spoon 
lay  it  over  the  top  in  heaps  to  look  rough  ; 
brown  it  in  a  Dutch  oven,  and  serve  quickly. 

SOUFFLET,  RICE.  Soak  in  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  for  an  hour,  one  ounce  of  rice, 
and  the  peel  of  a  lemon  cut  thin;  put  it  into 
a  saucepan,  with  a  little  salt,  and  add  by 
degrees  a  pint  of  new  milk,  and  a  bit  of  but- 
ter the  size  of  a  walnut;  stir  it  till  it  boil, 
and  for  five  minutes  after.  When  cool,  add 
the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  beaten  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  and  stir  in 
the  well-l>eaten  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  dress 
the  soufflet  in  the  dish  like  a  pyramid. 


Bake  it  in  an  oven.  It  may  1«  made  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  potato  flour,  which 
mix  with  a  little  milk,  and  a  little  salt,  and 
then  thicken  it  over  the  fire  with  more  milk ; 
put  a  little  orange-flower  water,  or  any  other 
perfume;  whilst  in  the  oven  it  may  l>e  glazed 
with  sifted  loaf  sugar. 

SOUFFLET,  ORANGE.  Mix  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour  a  pint  of  cream,  put 
it  into  a  saucepan,  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
rose-water,  a  little  cinnamon  and  orange- 
peel;  stir  it  till  it  boil ;  strain  and  sweeten 
it,  and  when  cold,  mix  in  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  orange  marmalade;  teat  well  six 
eggs  with  a  glass  of  brandy;  mix  all  togeth- 
er; put  it  in  a  buttered  shape;  place  it  in 
a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  over  a  stove; 
let  it  boil  one  hour  and  a  quarter  without  a 
cloth  or  cover  over  it. 

SOUPS.     Everv  utensil  employed  in  a 

kitchen  must  be  kept  scrupulously  clean, 
and  a  cook  ought  to  take  especial  care  that 
all  her  saucepans  be  in  good  order.  Brass 
pans  are  preferable  for  preserving  in,  and 
double  biock  tin  are  the  best  sort  in  use  for 
every  other  ;  .nrpose;  their  covers,  should  be 
made  to  lit  elosi-ly,  and  the  tinning  always 
renewed  as  soon  as  it  is  observed  to  be 
wearing  oil'.  While  new,  they  may  be 
easily  kept  clean  liv  washing  them  regularly 
in  hot  water,  and  rubbing  on  them  when 
quite  dry,  a  little  whiting  with  leather  or 
liamu'l.  After  lon<:  use,  they  will  require 
occasional  scouring  with  fine  sand ;  and  be- 
fore  they  arc  used,  they  ought  always  to  be 
rinsed  out  with  hot  water,  and  wiped  with 
a  clean  cloth.  A  landlady  will  find  it  good 
economy,  and  for  her  advantage  in  other 
respects,  to  provide  plenty  of  stone  ware  and 
earthen  vessels,  and  also  common  dishes  for 
the  kitchen,  that  the  table  set  may  not  be 
used  to  keep  cold  meat  on. 

In  boiling  soup,  less  water  is  used  in  a 
digester  than  in  a  common  pot,  as  in  a  di- 
gester no  steam  can  escape. 

To  extract  the  strength  from  meat,  long 
and  slow  boiling  is  necessary,  but  c::ro  must 
be  taken  that  the  ]x>t  is  never  off"  the  boil. 
All  soups  are  better  for  being  made  the  (lay- 
before  they  are  to  be  used,  and  they  should 
then  be  strained  into  earthen  pans.  When 
soup  has  jellied  in  the  pan,  it  should  not  be 
removed  into  another,  as  breaking  it  will 
|  occasion  its  becoming  sour  sooner  titan  it 
would  otherwise  do;  when  in  danger  of  not 
keeping,  it  should  be  boiled  up.  It  never 
keeps  long  with  many  vegetables  in  it.  The 
nwat  used  for  soups  or  broths  cannot  be  too 
fresh.  When  any  animal  food  is  plain 
bofled,  the  liquor,  with  the  addition  of  the 
trimmings  of  meat  and  poultry,  make  good 
soups  and  gravies,  as  do  also  die  bones  of 


SOUPS 


201 


SOUPS 


Foswted  or  broiled  meat.  The  gravies  left 
in  tlie  ii  for  hashes,  and  (lie 

liquor  in  which  veal  IIMS  lioen  l*>iled,  may 
1».'  made  i'l'o  !  lino;  it  with  a 

ham  bone  till  rednce.1  to  a  third  or  fourth 
part,  and  seasoning  it  with  tlv  necessary 
herbs  and  spices. 

In  boiliiii;  weak  soups,  the  pan  should  l)e 
tin-    watery    pani<  •]<:•>    may 
escape.        < 'o\v-lu:<:l    jelly     impr.i'.  . 
sort  of  rich -onp;   and  for  thickening,  truf- 
•  •U,  ana  dried  mushrooms,  may  be 
used  with  advantage. 

Directions    arc    given    with   each  of  the 

following    soups   fur   thickening    with    tlmir 

and  butter,  cream  and  eggs ;  after  the  cream 

ilded,  tlie  soup  most  not  be 

to  Ixiil. 

Should  liriiwii  srravy  or  mock  turtle  soup 

be    qx)iliii2.    fresh-made    charcnal,    roughly 

poimded,  tied  in  a  lit;  ,iied  with 

either,  \\ill  alt-orb  the  bad  flavor  and   leave 

i  I   may  be 

made  by  .-imply  putting  a  bit  of  wixxl  into 
the  fire,  and  pounding  the  burnt  part  in  a, 
mortar. 


ASPARAGUS.     This   i.--  made 

with  tlie  |x>ints   nf  as|*iragn-.   in   (lie  same 
manner  a-  the   i.'i'een    pease    soup    is    with 
:  ••  \    half   tlie   asparagus   be   rubbed 

through  a  sieve,  and  tlie  other  nil  in  pieces 
about    an    inch    long,    and    boiled  till  dune 

uid  sent  up  in  tin;  soup:  to  make 

two  ijnarls.   there   must   be   a  pint  of  heads 

to  thicken  it,  and   half  a   pint   cut   in;    take 

\e    these   gre<ii  and  a  little 

'hues    made   bv 

adding  tlie  as|>anigns  heads  to  common  pease 
soup. 

I!i:i:i',  THICK.   In  eight  quarts 

of  water  Imil  <>cmly  for  MACII  hours,  skim- 
ming it  well,  a  >hin,  or  a  leg  of  Ixt-f,  and  a 
Ixinch  nf  -UM  t  heili-;  -train  it  the  next  dav, 
take  oil  the  fit,  and  cut  all  tlx-  gristly  and 
sinev.  •.  por-  from  the  bones,  add  them  to 
the  soup  \\ith  some  leeks,  onions,  cilery, 
pepper,  .-alt.  and  tell  or  twelve  ounce*)  of 
Scotch  bailey  pirlxiiled;  l<oil  it  jjcntlj  for 
two  or  three  hours.  This  stock  or  jelly  wilfr 
keep  good  lor  weeks  in  cold  weatlter. 

BEEF  OR   MUTTON.    Boil 

very  gently  in  a  closely  covered  saucepan, 
four  quarts  of  water,  with  two  table-spoon- 
fills  of  sifted  bread  rasping,  three  pounds 
of  beef  cut  in    small    pieces,    or    die   same 
quantity  »(  mutton    chops    taken    from   the 
middle   of   ihe    neck;   season    with    |»-pper 
and  salt,  add  two    tunii|«>,  t\\o  carrots,  two 
onion-,  and  one  head  of  celery,  all  cut  small; 
let  it  .-tew  «iih  tln-ae  ingredients  four  hours, 
when  it  will  be  ready  to  sent  . 


BEET  ROOT.     Boil  till  tender 

two  roots  of  beet,  and  rub  off  tlie  skin  with 
towel,  mince  them  finely,  as  also 
two  or  three,  onions;  add  this  to  live  pints 
of  rich  gravy  >"ii|),  so  as  to  make  it  rather 
i!iii-k,  then  stir  in  three  or  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  vinegar  and  one  of  brown  sugar ;  let  it 
Ixiil,  and  throw  in  some  fricandellaiis  made 
up  in  the  form  of  corks,  and  rolled  in  flour. 

AND  BOUILLI.  The  best 

parts  for  this  purpose,  are  the  leg  or  shin, 
or  a  piece  of  the  middle  of  a  brisket  of 
'>out  seven  or  eight  pounds'  weight; 
lay  it  on  a  lish  drainer,  or  when  yon  take  it 
up,  put  a  slice  under  it,  which  will  enable 
you  to  place  it  on  the  dish  entire  ;  put  it  in- 
to a  souppot  or  deep  stewpan,  with  cold 
water  enough  to  cover  it,  and  a  quart  over, 
set  it  on  a  quick  (ire  to  get  the  scum  up, 
which  remove  as  it  rises ;  then  put  in  two 
carrots,  two  turnips,  two  leeks,  or  two 
large  onions,  two  heads  of  celery,  two  or 
three  cloves,  and  a  faggot  of  parsley  and 
sweet  herbs;  set  the  pot  by  the  side  of  the 
lire  to  simmer  very  gently,  till  the  meat  ia 
just  tender  enough  to  eat;  this  will  require 
at»ut  lour  or  live  hours. 

Put  a  large  carrot,  a  turnip,  a  large  onion, 
and  a  bead  or  two  of  celery,  into  tlie  soup 
whole, — take  them  out  as  soon  as  they  are 
done  enough,  lay  them  on  a  dish  till  they  are 
cold,  then  cut  them  into  small  squares: — 
when  the  BKKF  is  done,  take  it  out  careful, 
ly, — strain  tlie  SOUP  through  a  hair  sieve 
into  a  clean  stewpan,  take  off  the  fat,  and 
put  the  vegetables  that  are  cut  into  tlie 
soup,  tin:  tlaMir  of  which  joil  may  heighten, 
by  adding  a  table-spoonful  of  nm.-hiooni 
ketchup. 

If  a  Thickened  Soup  is  preferred,  take 
lour  large  table-spoonfuls  of  the  clear  fat 
from  the  top  of  the  pot,  and  four  spoonfuls 
of  flour;  mix  it  smooth  together,  then  by 
degrees  stir  it  well  into  tlie  soup,  Vkhich 
simmer  for  ten  minutes  longer  at  least, — 
skim  it  well  and  pass  it  through  a  tamis, 
or  6ne  sieve,  and  add  the  vegetables  and 
seasoning  the  game  as  directed  in  tlie  clear 
soup. 

Keep  tlie  beef  hot,  and  send  it  up  (as  a 
remove  to  tlie  soup)  with  finely  chopped 
parsley  sprinkled  on  the  top,  and  a  sauce* 
iwai  of  Wow  Wow  sauce. 


BROWN,    WITHOUT    MK  vr. 

Put  three  quarts  or  more  of  water,  with  a 

Miliicienl  quantity  of  raspings  to  thicken  it; 
two  or  three  onions  cut  across,  some  whole 
pepper,  and  a  little  salt;  cover  it  close,  am] 
let  it  boil  an  hour  and  a  hall';  take  it  off*, 
and  strain  it  through  a  sieve;  fry  in  butter 
some  celery,  endive,  lettuce,  spinach,  and 
any  other  lieiiw  rut  small;  then  take  a. 


SOUPS 


202 


SOUPS 


stewpan  (sufficiently  largie  to  hold  all  the 
ingredients,)  and  put  in  a  good  piece  of  but- 
ter, stick  in  a  little  flour,  and  keep  stirring 
til)  it  is  colored  of  a  nice  brown ;  then  put 
in  the  hri  bs  and  soup;  boil  it  till  the  herbs 
are  tender,  and  the  soup  of  a  proper  consist- 
ence, then  pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  and 
send  to  table;  serve  \viili  fried  bread,  either 
in  the  soup  or  in  a  dish. 

BROWN  GRAVY.  (1)  Take 

fifteen  pounds  of  u  leg  or  shin  of  beef,  cut  off 
the  meat  in  bits,  rub  the  bottom  of  the  pot 
with  butter,  put  in  the  meat,  let  it  brown 
for  nearly  an  hour,  turning  it  constantly, 
break  the  bone  and  take  out  the  marrow, 
which  may  be  kept  for  a  pudding,  but  it  is 
considered  better  than  butter  to  brown  the 
meat  with;  put  to  it  fourteen  quarts  of  cold 
water,  and  the  bones;  when  it  boils,  skim 
it  perfectly  clean,  and  add  six  good-sized 
red  onions,  one  carrot  cut  in  three,  one 
head  of  celery,  a  good  handful  of  whole 
black  and  Jamaica  pepper  mixed;  let  this 
boil  very  gently  ten  or  twelve  hours  closely 
covered,  if  upon  a  fire,  but  if  done  upon  a 
hot  plate,  not  to  be  covered ;  strain  it  through 
a  cullender,  and  then  through  a  hair  sieve, 
into  a  large  pan,  to  be  kept  for  use.  Re- 
turn the  meat  and  bones  into  the  pot  with 
three  or  four  quarts  of  hot  water ;  let  it  boil 
nearly  two  hours,  and  strain  it  off.  This 
make-*  good  stock  for  gravies,  stews,  or 
any  made  dishes. 

This  gravy  soup  keeps  perfectly  good  for 
three  or  four  weeks.  When  it  is  to  l>e 
boiled  to  send  to  table,  first  boil  vermicelli, 
or  macaroni,  in  a  little  salt  and  water,  till 
tender;  strain  it,  and  add  it  to  the  soup 
just  before  serving.  This  soup  is  quite 
pure,  and  requires  no  clearing.  It  is  a 
most  convenient  thing  to  have  in  a  house  in 
cold  weather,  as  it  is  always  ready  for  use; 
and,  served  with  dry  toast  to  eat  with  it, 
makes*])  acceptable  luncheon. 

The  trimmings  of  meat,  giblets,  and  bones, 
may  be  boiled  with  the  beef  for  this  soup. 

BROWN   GRAVY.     (2)    Cut 

down  three  pounds  of  gravy  beef,  and  put  it 
on  in  a  stewpan  will)  three  onions  cut  small, 
and  two  ounces  of  butter;  let  it  brown  well, 
stirring  it  to  prevent  the  onions  from  burn- 
ing; then  add  four  quarts  of  water,  one 
head  of  celery,  of  carrots  and  turnips  two 
each,  with  some  whole  black  pep|>cr  and 
salt;  boil  it  gently  for  four  hours  ;  strain  it ; 
and  the  next  day  Hike  off  the  fat.  When 
it  is  healed,  add  some  vermicelli,  previously 
boiled  in  water,  and  serve  it  after  boiling 
ten  minutes. 


CALF'S  HEAD,  OR  MOCK 

TURTLE.   (1)  Parboil  a  calf's  head,  take 


off  the  skin  and  cut  it  in  bits  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  square,  cut  the  fleshy  parts  in  bits, 
take  out  the  black  part  of  the  eyes,  and  cut 
the  rest  in  rings,  skin  the  tongue,  and  cut  it 
in  slices,  add  it  all  to  three  quarts  of  good 
stock,  and  season  it  with  cayenne,  two  or' 
three  blades  of  mace,  salt,  the  peel  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  with 
about  a  dozen  of  forcemeat  balls ;  stew  all 
this  an  hour  and  a  half,  rub  down  with  a 
little  cold  water,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 
mix  well  amongst  it  half  a  pint  of  the  soup, 
and  then  stir  it  into  the  pot ;  put  in  the 
juice  of  half  a  large  lemon,  and  the  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  eight  eggs;  let  it  simmer  for 
ten  minutes,  and  then  put  it  all  in  the  tureen. 

CALF'S   HEAD.     (2)     Scald 

and    clean    thoroughly  a   calf's  head    with 
the  skin  on,  boil  it  an  hour  gently  in  three 
(marts  of  water,  and   parboil  with   it  some 
sweetbreads.     Cut  off  the  meat,  slice   and 
fry  of  a  light  brown  in  butter  two  pounds 
of  gravy  beef,  one  of  veal,  and  one  of  mut- 
ton, with  five  onions  cut  small ;   put  all  into 
the  liquor,  adding  the  bones  of  the  head 
broken ;     rinse    the    frying-pan    with    two 
(marts  of  boiling  water,  and   put  it  to  the 
meat,  and  other  things,  with  two  whole  on- 
ions, and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  twice 
their   quantity  of  parsley ;    the  peel  of  one 
lemon,    limr  cloves,   a   iittle   allspice,  salt, 
and  black  pepjier,  with  a  slice  of  the  crumb 
of  bread  dried  before   the  fire;    let  all  this 
.stew  slowly   for   live  hours,  strain  it,   and 
when  cold,  take   off  all  the  fat.     Cut  the 
meat  of  the  calf's  head,  tongue,  and  sweet- 
breads, in  small   square  bits,  add   them  to 
the  soup,  and  when  it  has  boiled,  mix  very 
gradually   with   a   large   table-spoonful   of 
flour  a  cupful  of  the  soup,  and  stir  it  gently 
into  the  pot;  twenty  minutes  before  serving, 
add    a    small    tea-spoonful  of  cayenne,  the 
yolks  of  eight  or  ten  hard-boiled   ef 

the  .-ame  numlicr  of  forcemeat  balls  ;  a  pint 
of  white  wine, — Madeira  is  the  best, — and 
just  before  serving,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
Forcemeat  balls  fur  this  soup  are  made  as 
follows: — Mix  the  brains  with  five  table- 
spuunfuls  of  grated  bread,  the  same  of  finely 
minced  lieef  suet,  a  tca-spoi infill  of  salt,  one 
of  white  pepper,  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon, 
some  nutmeg,  and  boiled  parsley  chopped; 
beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs,  roll 
the  balls  the  si/e  of  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and 
fry  them  of  a  light  brown  in  boiling  drip- 
ping. 

CALF'S  HEAD.    (3)  Take  as 

much  as  is  required  of  not  very  strong  veal,  or 
l>cef  stock,  in  which  six  onions  have  been 
boiled,  brown  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
and  thicken  it  well  with  flour,  then  add  the 
stock  by  degrees ;  when  it  boils,  put  in  tba 


SOUPS 


203 


SOUPS 


calf's  head,  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  some  fried 
forcemeat  balls;     season   it    with    salt    and 
pepper.     The  peel  of  half  a  lemon  improves  j 
it.      When    it   has   killed   twenty  mi, 
add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  ketchup,  three  of  i 
essence  of  anchovies,  and    as  much    lemon 
pickle  as  will  make  it  a  pleasant  acid.     To 
give  the  soup  a  good  color,  and  to  enrich  the 
flavor,  may  !»•  aij.lcd  a  larije  talile-spoonful 
of  flour,  mixed  perfectly  smooth    in  a  tea- 
cupful  of  cold  water,  nnd  stirred   i;radiially 
into  the  soup,  after  which  let  it  boil  a  few 
minutes. 


CARROT.    Scrape  and   wash 

half  a  do/en  larjjf  carrots;   peel  off  die  red  j 
outside  (which  is  the  only  part  used  for  this 
soup);    put    it  into  a  gallon  stcwpan,  with 
one  head  of  celi-ry,  and  an  onion,  cut   into 
thin  pieces;    take  two  quarts  of  beef,  veal, 
or  mutton  broth,    or  if  you  have  any  cold  j 
roast  beef  l>oiics  (or  liquor,  in  which  mutton 
or  beef  has  l>een  l>oiled),  you  may  make  very 
good  lirotli  for    this    soup:    when  you   have 
put  tlw  broth  to  the  roots,  cover  the  stew  pan 

:i'ld    .-et     it    on    a    slow    Sto\e    tor     two 

hours  au<l  a  half,  \\iien  the  canots  will  l>e 
soft  eiiniiu'h  (sunn-  cooks  [Hit  ill  a  tea-cupful 
of  bread-crumbs) ;    boil    for    two  or    three 
inimttes;   rub  it    through    a    tamis,  or  hair 
sie\.',  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  add  as  much 
brotli  as  will  make  it    a  proper  thick 
t.  e.  almost  as  thick  as  pease  soup:   put  it  . 
into  a  clean  stcwpan ;  make  it  hot;   a 
it  with  a  little    sail,    and  send  it    up  with 
some  toasted  bread,  cut  into  pieces  half  an 
inch  s<|iiare.     Some  put  it  into  the    soup; 
but  the  Ix-.-t  wav  is  to  send  it  up  on  a  plate, 
as  a  side  dish. 

'  CELERY.     Split   half  a  dozen 

heads  of  celery  into  slips  aljout  two  inches 
long;  wasli  them  well;  lay  them  on  a  hair 
i.  >  drain,  and  put  tliem  into  three  quarts 
of  clear  graty  soup  in  a  gallon  soup-pot;  set 
it  by  tlie  side  of  the  fire  to  stew  very  sentry 
till  tin  "ler  (this  will  take  about 

an  hour).     If  any  scum  rises,  lake  it  off;  i 
season  with  a  little  salt. 

O6«. — When  celery  cannot  be  procured, 
half  a  diaclmi  of  the  seed,  pounded  line, 
which  may  !«•  considered  as  tl>e  essence  of 
celen, ,  put  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  licton-  the 
coup  is  done,  and  a  little  ,-n^.ir,  will  give  as  ' 
mm  li  flavor  to  half  a  gallon  of  soup  as  two 
heads  of  celery  weighing  seven  ounces,  or 
add  a  link;  essence  of  celery. 

COCKY-LEI:KY.    Take  a 


an  hour:  then  put  in  as  many  more  feeks, 
:iiid  nive  it  three-<]oarten  of  an  hour  longer: 
this  is  very  good,  made  of  good  beef  stock, 
and  leeks  put  in  at  twice. 

-  CRAW  FISH.  This  soup  is 
sometimes  made  with  l>eef,  or  veal  broth,  or 
with  fish,  in  the  following  manner:  Take 
flounders,  eels,  gudgeons,  &c.,  and  set  them 
on  to  boil  in  cold  water  ;  when  it  is  pretty 
nigh  boiling,  skim  it  well;  and  to  three 
quarts  put  in  a  couple  of  onions,  and  as  many 
carrots  cut  to  pieces,  some  parsley,  a  do/.en 
berries  of  black  and  Jamaica  pepper,  and 
alxiut  half  a  hundred  craw-fish  ;  take  off  the 
small  claws  and  shells  of  the  tails;  pound 
them  fine,  and  boil  them  with  the  brotli 
alxnit  an  hour;  strain  off,  and  break  in 
some  crusts  of  bread  to  thicken  it,  and,  if 
you  can  get  it,  the  spawn  of  a  lobster  ;  |xnind 
it,  and  put  it  to  the  soup;  let  it  simmer  ver) 
gently  for  a  cou|«le  of  minutes;  put  in  your 
craw-fish  to  get  hot,  and  the  soup  is  ready. 


CUES3Y.     (1) 


clean, 


and  cut  small,  ei«;lit  carrots,  eight  turnips, 
three  heads  of  celery,  and  six  onions;  put 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  and  a  slice  of  ham,  st<-w  them 
gently  for  an  hour,  stirring  tliem  constantly: 
when  they  bejiin  to  brown  add  as  much 
gravy  soup  as  \\ill  fill  the  tureen;  let  it  boil 
till  the  vegetables  are  sufficiently  tender  to 
pulp  with  a  s|M>on  through  a  sieve,  after 
which  put  it  on  tlie  fire  and  boil  it  half  an 
hour,  skin,  and  season  it  with  pepper  and 
salt.  This  soup  should  I*  as  thick  as  melt- 
ed butter.  Two  pounds  of  beef  boiled  in 
lour  quarts  of  water  till  reduced  to  three, 
will  answer  for  the  soup. 

--  -  CRESSY.  (2)  Slice  twelve 
lar^e  onions,  and  fry  them  pretty  brown  in 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  ;  scrape 
and  clean  two  dozen  of  good  red  carrots, 
boil  them  in  four  quart.?  of  water  till  quite 
soft;  pound  them  in  a  marble  mortar,  mix 
them  willi  the  onions  and  add  the  liquor  in 
which  the  carrots  were  boiled,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  pepper,  salt,  a  blade  of  mace, 
anil  t,vo  or  three  cloves;  let  them  all  boil 
aliout  an  hour.  then  rub  them  through  a  hair 
sieve;  put  it  on  again  to  beil  rather  quickly, 
till  it  be  as  thick  as  rich  cream.  Put  a  lit- 
tle dry  boiled  rice  in  the  tureen,  and  pour 
the  soup  over  it.  If  llie  carrots  are  large, 
one  dozen  will  be  found  sufficient. 


CUCUMBER.       Make  some 

mutton,  in-  shank  of  veal,  three  broth  w  ith  a  neck  of  mutton,  a  thick  slice 
quarts  of  \\ati-r  (or  liquor  in  which  meat  has  of  lean  Inco-i,  an  onion  stuck  with  three 
been  l»il.-<i),  ami  a  good  siwd  fowl,  with  cloves,  a  c  iirot,  two  turnips,  some  salt,  and 
two  in-  lin-ri-  In-ks  cut  in  pieci-s  a'Kint  an  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs;  strain  it;  brown 
inch  long,  |>ep|ier  and  salt;  boil  skmly  abool  with  an  ounce  of  butter  the  crumb  of  a 


SOUPS 


204 


SOUPS 


French  roll,  to  which  put  four  large  cucum- 
bers, and  two  heads  of  lettuce  cut  small ;  let 
them  stew  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  add  to 
them  a  quart  of  the  broth ;  when  it  Iniils 
put  in  a  pint  of  green  pease,  and  as  il  stews, 
a3d  two  quarts  more  of  the  broth. 

CURRY,    OR    MULLAGA- 

TAAVNY.     Cut  four  pounds  of  a  breast  of 
veal  into  pieces,  about  two  inches  by  one; 
put  the  trimmings  into  a  stewpan  with  two 
quarts  of  water,  with  twelve  corns  of  black 
pepper,  and  the  same  of  allspice;   when  it 
boils,  skim  it  clean,  and  let  it  boil  an  hour 
and  a  half,  then  strain  it  off;    while  it  is 
boiling,  fry  of  a  nice  brown  in  butter  the 
bits  of  veal  and  four  onions ;   when  they  are 
done,  put  the  broth  to  them ;   put  it  on  the 
fire;   when   it  boils,   skim   it  clean;    let  it 
simmer  half  an  hour;   then  mix  two  spoon- 
fuls of  curry,  and  the  same  of  flour,  with  a 
little  cold  water  and  a  tearspoonful  of  salt ; 
add  these  to  the  soup,  and  simmer  it  gently 
till  the  veal  is  quite  tender,  and  it  is  ready; 
or  bone   a  couple  of  fowls  or  rabbits,  and 
stew  them  in  the  'manner  directed  above  for 
the  veal,  and  you  may  put  in  a  bruised  esr 
chalot,  and  some  mace  and  ginger,  instead  of 
black  pepper  and  allspice. 

CURRY.      Mince   small  three 

or  four  onions,  according  to  tlieir  size,   put 
them  into  a   saucepan   with   two  ounces  of 
butter,  dredge  in  some  flour,  and  fry  them 
till  of  a  light  brown,  taking   care   not    to 
burn  them ;  rub  in  by  degrees  a  lai-ge  table- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  curry-powder,  till   it 
be  quite  a  paste;    gradually  stir   in   three 
quarts  of  gravy  soup,  mixing  it  well  togeth- 
er;  boil  it  gently  till    it   be    well    flavored 
with  the  CUITV -powder ;  strain  it  into  anoth- 
er saucepan,  and  add  a  fowl  skinned  and 
cut  in  small  pieces,  dividing  each  joint; 
stew  it  slowly  an  hour.     In  half  a  pint  of 
the  soup  put  a  large  table-spoonful  of  tama- 
rinds, and  stew  them  so  as  to  separate  the 
stalks  and  stones;  strain  and  stir  it  into  the 
soup  with  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and 
boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes  before  serving. 

EEL.     To  make  a  tureenful,  take 

a  couple  of  middling-sized  onions,  cut  them 
in  half,  and  cross  your  knife  over  them  two 
or  three  times;  put  two  ounces  of  butter 
into  a  stewpan,  when  it  is  melted  put  in  the 
onions,  stir  them  about  till  they  are  lightly 
browned;  cut  into  pieces  three  pounds  of 
eels,  put  them  into  your  stewpan,  and  shake 
them  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes;  then  add 
three  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  wlien  they 
come  to  a  boil,  take  the  scum  off  very  clean ; 
then  put  in  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  the 
green  leaves  (not  dried)  of  winter  savory, 
the  same  of  lemon  thyme,  and  twice  the 


quantity  of  parsley,  two  drachms  of  allspice, 
the  same  of  black  pepper ;  cover  it  close, 
and  let  it  boil  gently  for  two  hours;  then 
strain  it  off,  and  skim  it  very  clean.  To 
thicken  it,  put  three  ounces  of  butter  into  a 
clean  stewpan ;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  in  as 
much  flour  as  will  make  it  of  a  stiff  paste, 
then  add  the  liquor  by  degrees ;  lei  it  simmer 
for  ten  minutes,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve; 
then  put  your  soup  on  in  a  clean  stewpan, 
and  have  ready  some  little  square  pieces  of 
fish  fried  of  a  nice  light  brown,  either  eels, 
soles,  plaice,  or  skate  will  do;  the  fried 
fish  should  be  added  about  ten  minutes  be- 
fore the  soup  is  served  up.  Forcemeat  balls 
are  sometimes  added. 


GIBLET.      Clean  very  nicely 

two  sets  of  giblets,  parboil  them.     Take  the 
skin  off  the  feet;   cut  the  gizzards  in  quar- 
ters, the  necks  in  three  bits,  the   feet,  pin- 
ions,  and  livers,  in  two,  the  head   in   two 
also,  first  taking  off  the  bill;   boil  them  till 
nearly  done  enough  in  a  quart  of  weak  gravy 
soup  with  an    onion.     Have    ready  boiling 
some  rich  highly -seasoned  brown  gravy  soup; 
add  the  giblets  and  the  liquor  they  have  been 
boiled  in,  with  some  chopped  parsley;  take 
out  the  onion,  and  thicken  the  soup  with  a 
bit  of  butter  kneaded  in  flour.     If  tlie  giblets 
are  not  perfectly  sweet  and  fresh,  do  not  add 
the  weak  soup  they  were  lioiled  in.     Half  a 
pint  of  wine  may  lie  added  a    little  before 
serving,  but  it  is  very  good  without. 

GOURD,     Should  be  made  of 

full-grown  gourds,  but  not   those  that  have 
hard  skins;  slice  three  or  four,  and  put  them 
in  a  stewpan,  with  two  or  three  onions,  and 
a  good  bit  of  butter;  set  them  over  a  slow 
fire  till  quite  tender  (be  careful  not   to  Jet 
them  burn) ;   then  add  two  ounces  of  crust  of 
bread,  anil  two  quarts  of  good  consomme; 
season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper:  boil 
ten  minutes,  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  skim 
off  all  the  fat,  and  pass  it  through  a  tamis ; 
then  make  it  quite  hot,  and  serve  up  with 
fried  bread. 


GRAVY,  CLEAR.    Cut  half  a 

pound  of  ham  into  slices,  and  lay  them  at 
the  bottom  of  a  large  stewpan  or  stockpot, 
with  two  or  three  pounds  of  lean  l>ccf,  and 
as  much  veal ;  break  the  bones,  and  lay  them 
on  the  meat;  take  off  the  outer  skin  of  two 
large  onions  and  two  turnips;  wash,  clean, 
and  cut  into  pieces  a  couple  of  large  carrots, 
and  two  heads  of  celery;  and  put  in  three 
cloves  and  a  large  blade  of  mace.  Cover 
the  stewpan  close,  and  set  it  over  a  smart 
fire.  When  tlte  meat  begins  to  stick  to  the 
bottom  of  the  stewpan,  turn  it;  and  when 
there  is  a  nice  brown  glaze  at  the  bottom  of 
the  stewpan,  cover  the  meat  with  hot  water: 


SOUPS 


205 


SOUPS 


watch  it,  and  when  it  is  coming  to  boil  put 
in  half  a  pint  of  cold  water;  take  off  the 
scum;  tlH-n  put  in  half  a  pint  more  cold 
water,  ami  skim  it  again,  and  continue  to 
do  to  till  no  more  scum  rises.  \ow  set  it 
on  one  side  of  the  fire  to  Ix/il  gently  f  n-  :il»nt 
four  hours ;  strain  it  through  a  clean  tamis 
or  napkin  (do  not  squee/e  it,  or 
will  Ix-  thick)  into  a  clean  stone  pan;  let  it 
remain  till  it  is  cold,  and  then  remove  all  the 
fit.  When  you  decant  it,  Ix-  caivfnl  not  to 
disturb  the  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the 
pan. 

The  broth  should  be  of  a  fine  amber  color, 
and  as  clear  as  rock  wat.-r.  If  it  is  not 
quite  »o  bright  as  you  wisli  it,  put  it  into  a 
Mew  pan;  break  two  whites  and  shells  of 
eggs  into  a  basin;  beat  them  well  together; 
put  them  into  the  soup:  set  it  on  a  quick 
iire,  and  stir  it  with  a  whisk  till  it  bills; 
then  set  it  on  one  side  of  ihe  lire  to  settle 
for  ten  minutes;  run  it  through  a  fine  napkin 
into  a  Ictsin,  and  it  is  ready. 

However,  if  your  broth  is  carefully  skim- 
med, &c.  according  to  the  directions  above 
given,  it  will  Ix-  clear  enough  without  clari- 
fying; which  process  iiujKiirs  UK!  flavor  of 
it  in  a  higher  proportion  than  it  improves 
its  appearance.  This  is  the  basis  of  almost 
all  gravy  soups,  which  are  called  bv  the 
name  of  the  \egelabli-7.  that  are  put  into  them. 
Carrots,  turnips,  onions,  celery,  and  a  few 
lea\e>  nf  chervil,  make  what  is  called  spring 
soup,  or  soup  saute;  to  this  a  pint 

i    asparagus  pease,  01     1'ieiich  Ix-ans 
cut  into  pieci-<,  or  a  cabbage  Ivtlii' 
improvement.      With  rice  or  Scotch  bale-,, 
with  macaroni  or  vermicelli,  or  celery  cut 
into  lengths,  it  will   be  the  soup  usually  call- 
ed   In    iho.-e    names.     Or    turnip- 
round,  or  young  onions,  will  gi\e  you  a  clear 
turnip  or  onion  soup;   an. I  all   tin - 
bles   mixed    together,  soup  GRESSI.     The 
roots  and  vegetables  yon  n.-c  must  lie   I  HI!  led 
!ir-t,  or  they  will  impregnate   the  soup   with 
too  strong  a   flavor.     The  seasoning  for  all 
Uieee  soups  is  the  same,  viz.  salt  and  a  very 
little  cayenne  pepper. 

GAME.     In  the  game  season,  it 

•  .r  a  ciiok  to  give  a  very  good  soup 
at  a  very  little  expense,  by  taking  all  the 
meat  oil  the  breasts  of  any  cold  birds  which 
have  been  left  (he  preceding  day,  and  pound- 
i  i_'  it  in  a  mortar,  and  lieating  to  pieces  the 
legs  ami  bones,  and  lulling  them  in  some 
broth  for  an  hour.  Boil  six  turnips;  mash 
tin-in,  and  -train  them  through  a  tamis  cloth 
with  the  meat  that  has  lit-cn  (minuled  in  a 
mortar;  strain  your  broth,  and  put  a  little 
of  it  at  a  time  into  the  Mini-  to  help  you  to 
strain  all  of  it  through.  Put  your  -onp-kel- 
rle  mar  ilie  die,  Inil  do  not  let  it  boil:  when 
ready  to  dish  jour  dinner,  liave  six  yolks  of 
18 


egg*  mixed  with  half  a  pint  of  cream ;  strain 

through  a  sieve;  put  your  soup  on  the  fire, 
and  as  it  is  coming  to  boil,  put  in  the  eggs, 
and  stir  well  with  a  woo<l^  jsnooii :  do  not 
let  it  boil,  or  it  will  curdled* 

HARE.     Cut  the  hare  in  joints 

as  for  a  fricassee,  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan, 
with  a  little  allspice,  three  blades  of  mace, 
some  salt,  UddM^pIe  black  pepper,  a  bunch 
of  par.-K-y,  a  spff^  uf  lemon  thyme,  one  of 
winter  savory,  flur  quarts  of  water,  a  slice 
of  ham,  and  lour  pounds  of  lean  beef,  two 
carrots,  and  four  onions  cut  down ;  let  it 
Ixiil  till  it  \>e  reduced  to  three  quarts;  sepa- 
rate the  hare,  and  strain  die  soup  over  it, 
and  add  a  pint  of  Port  wine;  boil  it  up  be- 
fore serving. 

HERB.     Wash  and  cut   small 

twelve  cabbage  lettuces,  a  handful  of  chervil, 
one  of  purslane,  one  of  parslev,  eight  large 
green  onions,  and  three  haudfuls  of  sorrel; 
when  pease  are  in  season  omit  half  the  quanti- 
ty of  sorrel,  and  put  a  quart  of  young  green 
|xa-e;  put  them  all  into  a  saucepan,  with 
half  a  pound  of  butter  and  three  carrots  cat 
small,  some  salt  and  pepper;  let  them  stew 
cl  -el\  covrred  for  half  an  hour,  shaking 
thi  in  occasionally  to  prevent  their  adhering 
to  the  |»n ;  fry  in  butter  six  cucumbers  cut 
longways  in  four  pieces;  add  them  with  four 
quarts  of  hot  water,  half  a  French  roll,  and 
a  crust  of  brcj^i  toasted  U|>on  both  si.i.  -  ; 
and  let  the  whole 'boil  till  reduce;!  to  life*; 
quarts,  then  Ktr.iin  it  through  a  sie\e;  beat 
up  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  half  a  pint 
•  f  i  reaia,  and  stir  it  gently  into  the  soup  just 
'  before  serving. 

.  HERB  POWDER,  OR  VEG- 
ETABLE RELISH.  Dried  parslev,  win- 
'  ter  savory,  sweet  marjoram,  lemon  thyme, 
of  each  two  ounces;  lemon-peel,  cut  veiy 
thin,  and  dried,  and  sweet  basil,  an  ounce 
of  each.  Some  add  to  the  above  bay-leave* 
and  celery-seed,  a  drachm  each.  Dry  them 
in  a  warm,  but  not  too  hot  Dutch  oven: 
when  quite  dried,  pound  them  in  a  mortar, 
and  pa.-s  them  through  a  double  hair  sieve; 
put  them  in  a  bottle  closely  stopped,  they 
will  retain  their  fragrance  and  flavor  for 
several  months. 

Obt. — This  composition  of  tlie  fine  aro- 
matic herbs  is  an  invaluable  acquisition  t.i 
the  cook  in  those  seasons  or  situations  when 
fresh  heib-  cannot  be  had  ;  and  we  pn-t>  i  it 
to  the  ragout  powder.  It  impregnates  sauce, 
soup,  Stc.  with  .is  much  relish,  anil  render* 
it  agreeable  to  the  palate,  and  refreshes  the 
nei-ves,  without  so  much  risk  of 
offending  tiw  stomach. 

INVALID.     Cut  in  small  pieces 


SOUPS 


206 


SOUPS 


one  pound  of  beef  or  mutton,  or  part  of  both ; 
boil  it  gently  in  two  quarts  of  water;  take 
off  the  .-rum.  and  wlien  reduce, I  to  a  pint, 
strain  it.  Season  with  a  little  salt,  and  take 
a  tea-cupful  at  a  time. 


LOBSTER.     (1)     Cut.  small  a 

dozen  of  common-sized  onions,  put  them  into 
a  stewpan  with  a  small  hit  of  butler,  a  slice 
or  two  of  lean  ham,  and  a  .slice  of  lean  l>eef ; 
when  the  onions  are  (|uiie  soft,  mix  gradu- 
ally with  them  some  rich  stock;  let  it  toil, 
and  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  press- 
ing the  pulp  of  the  onions  with  a  wooden 
spoon;  then  boil  it  well,  skimming  it  all  the 
time.  Beat  the  meat  of  a  boiled  cod,  the 
spawn  and  lx>dy  of  a  large  lobster,  or  of  two 
small  ones,  in  a  marble  mortar;  add  grad- 
ually to  it  rhe  soup,  stirring  it  till  it  is  as 
smooth  as  cream ;  let  it  toil  again  anil  scum 
it.  Cut  the  tail  and  the  claws  of  the  lobster 
into  pieces,  and  add  them  to  the  soup  before 
serving  it,  and  also  gome  pepper,  cayenne,- 
white  pep|>er,  and  a  gfass  of  white  wine. 
Forcemeat  balls  may  l>e  added  to  oyster  soup 
and  lobster  soup,  made  as  directed  under  the 
article  "  Forcemeat  for  fish."" 


LOBSTER.  (2)  You  must 

have  three  fine  lively  young  hen  lobsters, 
split  the  tails;  take  out  the  fish,  crack  the 
claws,  and  cut  the  meat  into  mouthfulsr 
take  out  the  coral,  and  soft  part  of  the  tody ; 
bruise  part  of  the  coral  in  a  mortar;  pick 
out  the  fish  from  the  chines;  beat  part  of  it 
with  the  coral,  and  with  this  make  forcemeat 
Ixills,  finely-flavored  with  mace  or  nutmeg, 
a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  anchovy  and  cay- 
enne ;  pound  these  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg. 

Have  three  quarts  of  veal  broth;  bruise 
the  small  legs  and  the  chine,  and  put  them 
into  it,  to  toil  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
•train  it;  and  then  to  thicken  it,  take  the 
live  spawn  and  bruise  it  in  a  mortar  wilh  a 
little  butter  and  flour;  nib  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  add  it  to  the  soup  with  the  meat  of  the 
lobsters,  and  the  remaining  coral;  let  it 
simmer  very  gently  for  ten  minutes;  do  not 
let  it  toil,  or  its  fine  red  color  will  imme- 
diately fade ;  turn  it  into  a  tureen ;  add  the 
juice  of  a  good  lemon,  and  a  little  essence 
of  anchovy. 

LORRA1N.     Boil  in  four  quarts 

of  water  a  knuckle  of  veal,  one  pound  of 
lean  beef,  and  one  pound  of  mutton,  a  car- 
rot, a  turnip,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  little 
lemon  thyme,  some  salt  and  white  pepper, 
till  reduced  to  three,  then  strain  the  liquor; 
pound  very  finely  in  a  marble  mortar,  all  the 
white  meat  of  a  large  roasted  fowl,  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  blanched  almonds,  and 
lie  volks  of  four  hard-toiled  eggs;  tod  in 
.milk  the  crumb  of  a  French  roll,  and  pound 


it  with  tlie  other  ingredients,  and  stir  it  all 
well  into  the  soup;  let  it  toil  gently  for  ten 
minute.-  before  serving. 

-  MAIGRE,  OR  VEGETABLE 
GRAVY.  Put  into  a  gallon  stewpan  three 
ounces  of  totter ;  set  it  over  a  slow  fire ; 
while  it  is  melting,  slice  four  ounces  of 
onion;  cut  in  small  pieces  one  turnip,  one 
carrot,  and  a  head  of  celery  ;  put  them  in  the 
stewpan,  cover  it  close,  let  it  fry  till  they  are 
lightly  browned;  this  will  take  atout  twen- 
ty-five minutes:  have  ready,  in  a  saucepan, 
a  pint  of  pease,  with  four  quarts  of  water; 
when  the  roots  in  the  stewpan  are  quite 
brown,  and  the  |x-ase  come  to  a  boil,  put  the 
|>ease  and  water  to  them  ;  pat  it  on  the  fire  j 
when  it  toils,  skim  it  clean,  and  put  in  a 
crust  of  bread  about  as  big  as  the  top  of  a 
twopenny  loaf,  twenty-four  berries  of  all- 
spice, the  same  of  black  pep|x>r,  and  two 
blades  of  mace;  cover  it  close,  let  it  simmer 
gently  for  one  hour  and  a  half;  then  set  it 
from  the  fire  for  ten  minutes;  then  pour  it 
oftvery  gently  (so  as  not  to  disturb  the  sedi- 
ment at  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan)  into  a 
large  basin  ;  let  it  stand  (about  two  hours) 
till  it  is  (mite  cle.ir:  while  this  is  doing, 
shred  one  large  turnip,  the  red  part  of  a 
large  carrot,  three  omices  of  onion  minced, 
ami  one  large  head  of  celcty  cut  into  small 
bits;  put  the  turnips  and  carrots  on  the  fire 
in  cold  water,  let  them  toil  five  minutes, 
then  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  then  pour  off  the 
soup  clear  Hito  a  stewpan,  put  in  tlie  roots, 
put  tlie  soup  on  the  fire,  let  it  simmer  gently 
till  the  herbs  we  tender  (from  thirty  to  forty 
minutes),  season  it  with  salt  ami  a  little 
cayenne,  and  it  is  ready.  You  may  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  mmhroom  ketchup.  You 
will  have  three  quarts  of  soup,  as  well  color- 
ed, and  almost  as  well  flavored,  as  if  made 
wilh  gravy  meat.  To  make  tins  it  requires 
nearly  five  hours.  To  fry  the  hcilw  requires 
twenty-five  minutes;  to  toil  all  together,  one 
hour  and  a  hull ;  to  settle,  at  the  least,  two 
hum's  ;  when  clear,  and  put  on  the  fire  aguHi. 
half  an  hour  more. 


MACARONI.  (1)  Boil  for  three 

hours  very  quickly,  in  five  quarts  of  water, 
seven  pounds  of  veal,  a  little  salt,  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  white  pepper,  and  three  or  four 
blades  of  mac?;  strain  it  off,  put  it  into  a 
saucepan,  and  keep  it  hot  upon  a  stove. 
Mix  five  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  put  it  into  an  iron-tinned 
saucepan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  be 
melted  ;  add  half  a  pint  of  the  strained  stock, 
and  then  gradually  mix  the  whole  together, 
and  keep  stirring  constantly  till  it  thickens, 
and  then  add  two  ounces  and  a  half  of  mac- 
aroni, previously  toiled  in  milk  and  water 
for  eight  minutes;  stir  it  again  till  it  toil. 


SOUPS 


207 


SOUPS 


Take  the  pan  off  the  stove,  and  Mir  in  V>y 
degrees  about  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  rich 
sweet  cream,  and  just  let  it  boil  before  ser- 
ving. 

MACARONI.  (2)  Make  a  good 

clock  with  a  knuckle  of  veal,  a  little  sweet 
marjoram,  parsley,  some  salt,  white  pepper, 
three  blades  of  mace,  and  two  or  three  on-  , 
ions;  strain  and  boil  it.  Break  in  small  bits 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  macaroni,  and  genlly 
simmer  it  in  milk  and  water  till  il  be  swell- 
ed and  is  tender ;  strain  it,  and  add  h  to  the  ! 
soup,  \\liidi  thicken  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  inixe-1  in  half  a  pint  of  cream,  and 
stirred  gradually  into  the  soup.  Boil  it  a  few 
minutes  before  serving. 

MOCK  TURTLE.     Endeavor 

to  have  the  head  and  the  broth  ready  for  the 

soap,  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  eaten.     It 

will  take  eight  hours  to  prepare  it  properly. 

kaurt. 

Cleaning  and  soaking  the  head 1 

To  parboil  it  to  cut  up 1 

Cooling,  nearly 1 

Making  the  broth  and  finishing  the  soup     5 

8 
Get  a  calf's  head  with  the  skin  on  (the 

fresher  tlte  heller) ;  take  out  the  brains, 
\\a-h  the  head  several  times  in  cold  water, 
let  it  soak  for  about  an  hour  in  spring  water, 
then  lay  it  in  a  stewpan,  and  cover  it  with 
cold  water,  and  half  a  gallon  over;  as  it  be- 
comes warm,  a  great  deal  of  scum  will  rise, 
which  must  be  immediately  removed  ;  let  it 
boil  gently  lor  one  hour,  take  it  up,  and  when 
almost  cold,  cut  the  head  into  pieces  about 
an  inch  and  a  half  by  an  inch  and  a  quarter, 
and  the  tongue  into  mouthful*,  or  rather 

•de-dish  of  the  tongue  and  brains. 
When  the  head  is  taken  out,  put  in  the 
stock  meat,  aliout  five  pounds  of  knuckle  of 
veal,  and  as  much  Ijeef;  add  lo  the  stock  all 
the  trimmings  and  bones  of  the  head,  skim 
it  well,  and  dien  cover  it  close,  and  let  it 
boil  fi\e  hours  (reserve  a  couple  of  quarts  of 

ike  gravy  sauces) ;  then  strain  it  off,  ! 
and  let  it  stand  till  the  next  morning;  then 
take  off  the  fat,  set  a  large  stewpan  on  the 
fire  with  half  a  pound  of  good  fresh  butter, 
twelve  ounces  of  onions  sliced,  and  four  oun- 
ces of  green  sage  ;  chop  it  a  little;  let  these 
fi\  <>ne  hour;  then  rub  in  half  a  pound  of 
flour,  and  by  degrees  add  your  broth  till  it  in 
the  thickness  of  cream ;' season  it  with  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  ground  allspice  and 
half  an  ounce  of  black  pepper  ground  very 
fine,  salt  to  your  taste,  and  the  rind  of  one 
lemon  peeled  very  thin;  let  it  simmer  very 
gervly  fir  one  hour  and  a  half,  then  strain  it 
through  a  hair  sieve  ;  do  not  nib  your  soup 
to  yi  il  through  ihe  sieve,  or  it  will  make  it  I 
{,'ioutv  ;  if  it  docs  not  run  through  easily,  ! 


knock  your  wooden  spoon  against  the  aide 
of  your  sieve;  put  it  in  a  clean  stewpan  with 
the  head,  and  season  it  by  adding  to  each 
gallon  of  soup  half  a  pint  of  wii»y  this  .should 
be  Madeira,  or,  if  you  wish  to  duiken  the 
color  of  your  soup,  claret,  and  two  taUo- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice ;  let  it  simmer  gently 
till  the  meal  is  tender;  this  may  lake  from 
half  an  hour  to  an  hour:  take  care  it  is  not 
over-done ;  stir  it  frequently  to  prevent  the 
meat  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  Mewpun, 
and  when  the  meat  is  quite  tender  the  soup 
is  ready. 

A  head  weighing  twenty  pounds,  and  ten 
pounds  of  slock  meat,  will  make  ten  quarts 
of  excellent  soup,  besides  the  two  quarts  of 
stock  you  have  put  by  for  made  dishes. 

Obs. — If  thei  e  is  more  meat  on  the  head 
than  you  wish  to  put  in  tlie  soup,  prepare  it 
for  a  pie,  and,  with  the  addition  of  a  calPs 
foot  boiled  tender,  it  will  make  an  excellent 
ragout  pie;  season  it  with  zest,  and  a  little 
minced  onion,  put  in  half  a  tea-cupful  of 
stock,  cover  it  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  it 
one  hour :  when  the  soup  comes  from  table, 
if  there  is  a  deal  of  meat  and  no  soup,  put  il 
into  a  pie-dish,  season  it  a  little,  and  add 
some  little  stock  to  it;  then  cover  it  with 
paste,  bake  it  one  hour,  and  you  have  a 
good  mock  turtle  pie. 

To  season  it,  to  each  gallon  of  soup  put 
iwo  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice,  same  of 
mushroom  ketchup,  and  one  of  essence  of 
anchovy,  half  a  pint  of  wine  (this  should  be 
Madeira,  or,  if  you  wish  to  darken  the  color 
of  your  soup,  claret),  a  tea-spoonful  of  curry 
powder,  or  a  quarter  of  a  drachm  of  cayenne, 
and  the  peel  of  a  lemon  pared  as  thin  a* 
possible;  lei  it  simmer  five  minutes  more, 
take  out  the  lemon-peel,  and  the  soup  is  ready 
for  the  tureen. 

While  the  soup  is  doing,  prepare  for  each 
tureen  a  dozen  and  a  half  of  mock  turtle 
forcemeat  balls,  and  put  them  into  die  tureen. 
Brain  balls,  or  cakes,  are  a  very  elegant  ad- 
dition, and  are  made  by  boiling  the  brain* 
for  ten  minutes,  llien  pulling  ihem  in  cold 
water,  and  cutting  them  into  pieces  about  a* 
big  as  a  large  nutmeg ;  take  savory,  or  lemon 
thyme  dried  and  finely  powdered,  nutmeg 
grated,  and  pepper  and  salt,  and  pound  them 
all  together;  beat  up  an  egg,  dip  the  brains 
in  it,  and  then  roll  them  in  this  mixture,  and 
make  as  much  of  it  as  possible  stick  to  diem ; 
dip  them  in  the  egg  again,  and  then  in  finely- 
grated  and  sifted  bread-crumbs ;  fry  them  la 
hot  fat,  and  send  them  up  as  a  side  dish. 

A  veal  sweetbread,  not  too  much  done  of 
il  will  break,  cut  into  pieces  the  name  size 
as  you  cut  the  calf's  head,  and  put  in  the 
soup,  just  to  get  warm  before  it  goes  to  table, 
is  a  superb  "  bonne  bouche;"  and  pickled 
tongue,  stewed  till  very  tender,  and  rut  into 
mouthful*,  is  a  favorite  addition.  We  order 


SOUPS 


208 


SOUPS 


(he  me:U  to  be  cut  into  mouthful*,  that  it 
may  be  eaten  with  a  spoon:  die  knife  and 
fork  have  no  business  in  a  soup-plate. 

N.  B. — In  helping  this  soup,  the  distri-  ] 
l>uler  of  it  should  serve  out  the  meat,  force- 
meat, and  gravy,  in  equal  parts;  however  , 
trifling  or  needless  this  remark  may  appear,  , 
the  writer  ha*  often  suffered  from  the  want 
of  such  a  hiut  l>eing  given  to  the  soup-serr-  . 
IT,  who  lias  sometimes  sent  a  plate  of  mere 
gravy  without  meat,  at  others,  of  meat  with- 
out gravy,  and  sometimes  scarcely  any  thing 
1  ut  forcemeat  balls. 

06s. — This  is  a  delicious  soup,  within 
the  reach  of  those  who  "eat  to  live;"  but 
if  it  had  been  composed  expressly  for  those 
who  only  "  live  to  eat,"  I  do  not  know  how 
it  could  have  been  made  more  agreeable:  as 
it  is,  the  lover  of  good  eating  will  "  wish  his 
throata  mile  long,  and  every  inch  of  it  palate." 

MOCK  MOCK  TURTLE.  Line 

the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  that  will  hold  five 
pints,  with  an  ounce  of  nice  lean  bacon  or 
ha:n,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lean  gravy  beef, 
u  cow-heel,  the  inner  riiid  of  a  carrot,  a  sprig 
of  lemon  thyme,  winter  savory,  three  times 
tlie  quantity  of  parsley,  a  few  green  leaves 
rf  sweet  basil,  and  two  eschalots;  put  in  a 
large  onion,  with  four  cloves  stuck  in  it, 
eighteen  corns  of  allspice,  the  same  of  black 
[>epper ;  pour  on  these  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  cold  water,  cover  the  stewpan,  and  set  it 
on  a  slow  fire,  to  boil  gently  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour;  then,  for  fear  the  meat  should 
catch,  take  off  the  cover,  and  watch  it ;  and 
when  it  lias  got  a  good  brown  color,  fill  up 
tlie  stewpan  with  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
simmer  very  gently  for  two  hours:  if  you 
wish  to  have  the  full  benefit  of  the  meat, 
only  stew  it  till  it  is  just  tender,  cut  it  into 
mouthfuls,  and  put  it  into  the  soup.  To 
thicken  it,  pour  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  a  ladleful  of  tlie  gravy,  and  stir  it 
(jiiick  till  it  is  well  mixed;  pour  it  back  in- 
to tlie  stewpan  where  tlie  gravy  is,  and  let 
it  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour  longer; 
skim  it,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  tamis 
into  tlie  stewpan:  cut  tlie  cow-heel  into 
pieces  alxnit  an  inch  square,  squeeze  through 
•ve  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  table-spoon- 
f.il  of  mushroom  ketchup,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
salt,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  ground  black 
•••r ,  as  much  grated  nutmeg  as  will  lie 
<;<i  ;i  six|>ence,  and  a  glass  of  Madeira  or 
Sherry  wine ;  let  it  all  simmer  together  for 
five  minutes  longer.  Forcemeat  or  egg  balls 
liii.y  be  added  if  you  please. 

A  pound  of  vea'l  cutlets,  or  the  tally  part 
of  pickled  pork,  or  nice  double  tripe  cut  in- 
to pieces  about  an  inch  square,  and  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  rounded  and  trimmed  ner.t- 
ly  from  all  skin,  gristle,  &c.  and  stewed  till 
tliey  are  tender,  will  be  a  great  addition. 


MOOR-FOV,'!..       It   may   Le 

made  with  or  without  brown  gravy  soup; 
when  with  the.  former,  six  birds  are  suffi- 
cient, when  with  moor-f  .v,  I  <•>  \\ ,  boil  five  in 
four  quarts  of  water,  pound  the  breasts  in  a 
mortar  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  put  it 
with  the  legs,  backs,  and  three  more  moor- 
fowl,  cut  down  in  joints,  into  tlie  liquor, 
season  with  a  pint  of  Port  wine, 
and  salt,  and  let  it  buil  an  \\.\v. 
only  six  birds  are  used,  pound  the  breast* 
of  three  or  four. 


MULLAGATAWNY.  (1)   Put 

half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  with  six  large 
onions  sliced,  three  cloves  of  garlic,  some 
chopped  parsley,  and  sweet  marjoram,  into 
a  stewpan,  let  it  slew  over  a  slow  fire  till 
of  a  light  brown  color;  cut  in  small  pieces 
five  pounds  of  lean  beef,  and  let  that  stew 
till  the  gravy  be  extracted,  and  then  put  in 
three  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  half  a 
pound  of  Scotch  barley,  and  let  it  simmer 
four  hours  very  slowly;  mix  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  curry-powder  with  cold  water, 
and  add  it  to  the  stock;  take  out  the  beef, 
and  rub  the  barley  through  a  sieve,  to  thick- 
en the  sou]).  Cut  a  fowl  in  joints,  skin  it, 
and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter, and  let  it  stew  till  quite  tender;  the 
stewpan  must  be  kept  closely  covered:  this 
to  be  added  to  the  soup,  the  last  tiling,  with 
a  pint  of  lx>iling  milk,  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons.  Boiled  rice  uuist  always  be  :-c.\e.l 
with  this  soup. 

— , MULLAGATAWNY.      (2) 

Make  a  strong  stock  of  the  bones  of  masted 
beef,  mutton,  and  fowl ;  while  it  is  pi  rpar- 
ing,  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  six  ounces  of 
butter,  three  quarts  of  sliced  turnip,  two 
quarts  of  carrots,  and  eight  largr-  i.nioiis 
also  sliced;  let  them  stew  upon  the  stme  till 
tender ;  then  add  three  (marts  of  the  pre- 
pared stock,  a  large  slice  of  the  crumb  of 
bread,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  curry- 
powder;  let  them  stew  four  or  live  hours; 
strain  it  through  a  tammy  cloth,  with 
two  wooden  spoons,  taking  care  that  no 
bones  be  left  amongst  the  vegetables;  if  too 
thick  to  go  through,  add  more  stock.  Then 
cut  a  fowl  in  pieces,  fry  it  in  a  frying-pan 
with  butter,  and  add  it  to  the  soup;  after 
it  has  Ixtiled  a  little,  draw  it  to  the  side 
of  the  stove,  and  let  it  simmer,  that  the 
grouse  may  be  taken  "oft".  A  little  good 
I'XT!'  .-tuckj  in  addition  to  that  made  of  the 
bones  will  be  an  improvement.  Jt  is  some- 
times thickened  with  whole  or  ground  rice, 
instead  of  bread,  and  ought  to  be  made 
upon  a  stove. 

. —  ON1O.X.     Toil  in  four  quarts  of 

water  six  pounds  of  a  knuckle  of  veal,  with 


SOUPS 


209 


SOUPS 


•  t-spoonful  of  whole  white  pepper, 
and  a  few  lihdes  of  niiire;  when  the  meat 
is  si)  much  boiled  as  lo  leave  the  !>••»•,  strain 
off  the  slock.  The  foil  iwlng  day  boil  nine 
or  ten  hirije  Spanish  onion.-!  in  milk  and 
water,  till  siimcieutlv  tender  to  p>i!p  through 
a  sieve;  take  the  fat  o(T  from  the  top  of  the 
nock,  lx>il  it  up,  and  add  the  <>•< 
about  a  quarter  of  a  pimnd  of  lVe.-li  butter 
wurke'l  xx  it!i  txxo  hcapc'l  tali'.---coonfuls  of 
silted  llmir  of  rice,  ami  a  littl--  salt;  boil  it 
gently  for  half  an  boor,ftirring  it  constantly, 
and  a  little.  U'fore  serving,  .--lir  in  half  a  pint 
of  rich  cream. 

-  OX-HEAD,  Should  be  pre- 
pared the  day  In-line  it  is  to  In'  calm,  as  you 
cannot  cut  the  ine.it  oil'  the  itead  into  neat 
tnoitthfiils  unless  it  is  rold:  thcrefoie,  tlie 
day  U'tore  you  want  this  soup,  put  half  an 
ox  -check  into  a  tub  of  eold  water  to  soak 
for  a  couple  of  hours;  (hen  break  the  IMMICS 
that  have  not  been  broken  at  the  butcher's, 
and  w,i-!i  it  very  well  in  warm  water;  put 
it  into  a  p  'I,  anil  cover  it  \xilli  cold  water; 
when  it  boils,  skim  it  xery  clean,  and  then 
put  in  one  head  of  celery,  a  couple  of  carrots, 
a  turnip,  two  large  onions,  two  dozen  tar- 
ries of  black  pcp|>er,  same  of  allspice,  and 
a  bundle  of  sw»-et  herbs,  .-:ich  as  marjoram, 
lemon  ihxme,  saxorv,  and  a  handful  of  ;>ars- 
ley;  cover  the  soiip-|>ot  elo-e,  and  set  it  on  a 
ylow  (ire;  take  off  the  scum,  which  will  rise 
when  i'  is  coming  to  a  Ixiil,  and  set  it  by  the 
fireside  to  stew  very  gently  for  about  three 
hours;  take  out  tbe  head,  lay  it  on  «  dish, 
jxnir  tlie  soup  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a 
stone-  xx  are  pan,  and  set  it  and  the  head  by 
I  place  till  tlie  next  day;  then  cut 
(lie  meat  into  neat  moutlit'uls,  skim  and  strain 
off  the  broth,  put  two  quarls  of  it  and  the 
meat  into  a  clean  Mcwpan,  let  it  simmer  xery 
gently  fir  half  an  hour  longer,  and  it  is 
ready,  ll  you  wish  it  thickened,  put  two 
oiirire-j  of  Ixitte.r  into  a  stewpan  ;  when  it  is 
melted,  throw  in  us  much  Hour  as  xx  ill  dry  it 
iii):  xx  hen  tliey  are  all  well  mixed  together, 
and  browned  by  decrees,  pour  to  this  your 
soup,  and  stir  it  xvell  togi  ih.-r;  let  it  simmer 
for  h.ilf  an  hour  longer;  strain  it  through  a 
Lair  sieve  into  a  clean  stewpan,  and  put  to 
it  tlie  meat  of  the  head  ;  let  it  slew  half  an 
hour  longer,  and  season  it  xx  ith  cayenne 
pepj>er,  gait,  and  a  glass  of  good  wine,  or  a 
table-iinoonful  of  brandy.  It  yon  serve  it  as 
Koup  for  a  dozen  people,  thicken  one  tureen, 
and  mud  up  the  meal  in  that  ;  and  send  up 
the  oilier  as  a  clear  gravy  soup,  with  wnne 
of  the  carrots  and  turnips  xhix-dded,  or  cm 
into  shapes. 


-  OX-HEEL,  Must  be  made  the 
day  In-fine  it  i-  to  U-  eaten.  Procure  an 
ox-heel  nndre.-.sed,  or  only  scalded,  and  two 


that  have  been  boiled  :is  tl»cy  usually  are  at 
llie  tri|>e  shops. 

Cut  the  nie.it  off  the  boiled  heels  into  neat 
mouthfuls,  and  set  it  by  on  a  plate;  put  the 
triflHMan  and  Ujnes;  in  a  stewpan,  xx  ith  three 
quart*  of  xxaler,  and  the  unlioiled  heel  cut  into 
quarters;  furnish  a stexxpan  with  txvo onions, 
and  txxo  ttiriiips  pared  and  sliced;  pare  off 
the  red  part  of  a  couple  of  large  cnnots,  add 
a  couple  of  eschalots  cut  in  half,  a  bunch  of 
savory  or  lemon  thyme,  and  double  the  quan- 
tity of  parsley ;  set  this  over,  or  by  the  side 
of  a  slow,  steady  fire,  and  keep  il  closely 
covered  and  simmering  very  gently  (or  ihc 
soup  liquor  xx  ill  evaporate)  for  at  !'•. 
hours:  during  which,  take  care  to  remove 
the  fat  and  scum  that  xvill  rise  to  the  surface 
•••}>,  which  must  be  kept  as  clean  as 

|X)ssil)!e. 

Noxv  strain  the  liquor  through  a  sieve, 
and  put  txvo  ounc  *s  of  butter 'into  a  clean 
stexvpan ;  xvhen  it  is  melted,  stir  into  it  as 
much  Hour  as  xxill  make  it  a  stiff  paste;  add. 
to  it  by  degrees  the  soup  liquor;  gixe  it  a 
l*iil  up;  strain  it  through  a  siexe,  and  pot 
in  the  peel  of  a  lemon  pared  as  thin  as  pop. 
sible,  and  a  couple  of  bay-leaves,  and  the 
mi  ii  of  ihe  I  Milled  net-Is ;  lei  it  go  on  s'nn- 
IIH.-I  ing  for  half  an  hour  longer,  i.  e.  till  the 
meat  is  tender.  Put  in  tlie  juice  of  a  lemon, 
a  jrlass  of  xvine,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  mush-! 
room  ketchup,  and  the  soup  is  ready  for  the, 
tureen. 

Those  xvho  are  disposed  to  make  this  a 
more  substantial  dish,  may  introduce  a 
couple  of  sets  of  goose  or  duck  giblets,  or 
•  s-taiK  or  a  pound  of  voal  cutlets,  cut  into 
mouthfuls. 

OX-TAIL.     Three  tails,  costin- 

alxiut  2il.  each,  xx  ill  make  a  tureen  of  soup 
(desire  the  butcher  to  divide  them  at  tlte 
joints);  lay  them  to  soak  in  xvann  xvater, 

j  while  you  get  ready  the  vegetables. 

I'm  into  a  gallon  stexxpan  eight  clove*, 
txvo  or  three  onions,  half  a  drachm  of  alW 
spice,  and  the  same  of  black  pep|ier,  and 
the  tails:  cover  tin-in  with  cold  water;  skim 
it  carefully,  xvhen  and  as  long  as  you  sne 
any  scum  rise;  then  cover  the  pot  as  clow 
as  |«isvil)|.-,  and  set  it  on  the  side  of  the 
fire  to  keep  gently  simmering  till  the  meat 
Iwronies  tender  and  will  leave  tlie  bones 
easily ,  l>ecaiisc  it  is  to  be  eaten  xvith  a  Fpoon, 
xx  ithotit  i  he  assistance  of  a  knife  or  f  >rk  ;  thn 
xvill  require  aliout  two  hours:  mind  it  is  not 
done  too  much:  xvben  perfectly  lender,  take 
out  the  meat  and  cut  it  off  tlie  bones,  !• 
neat  mouthful* ;  skim  tlie  broth,  and  strain 
it  through  a  siexe;  if  yo<i  prefer  a  thicken- 

I  ed  soup,  put  Hour  and  butter,  as  directed  in 
the  prill-ding  le-eipt;  or  put  txxo  lab)f>- 
spoonfuki  of  tlie  fit  you  have  taken  off  the 

broth    int.)   a      !".ia   /-tcxxptP,,   with   <IS   milC^ 


SOUPS 


210 


SOUPS 


flour  us  will  make  it  into  a  paste  ;  set  this 
over  the  fire,  and  stir  them  well  together; 
then  ]x>ur  in  the  broth  by  degrees,  stirring 
it,  and  mixing  it  with  the  thickening;  let 
it  simmer  for  another  half  hour,  and  when 
yon  have  well  skimmed  it,  anil  it  is  quite 
smooth,  then  strain  it  through  a  (amis  into 
a  clean  stewpan,  put  in  the  meat,  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  a  glass 
of  wine,  and  season  it  \\illi  s;.!t. 

Obs. — If  the  meat  is  rut  off  the  bones, 
yon  must  have  three  tails  lor  a  tureen,  some 
put  an  ox-cheek  or  tails  in  an  earthen 
pan,  u  ilh  all  the  ingredients  as  above,  and 
send  them  to  a  slow  oven  for  five  or  six 
hours. 


—PEAS,  GREEN.  (1)  A  peck  of 

peas  will  make  you  a  good  tureen  of  soup. 
In  shelling  them,  put  the  old  ones  in  one 
basin,  and  the  young  ones  in  another,  and 
keep  out  a  pint  of  them,  and  boil  them 
separately  to  put  into  your  soup  when  it  is 
finished:  put  a  large  saucepan  on  the  fire 
half  full  of  water;  when  it  boils,  put  the 
peas  in,  with  a  handful  of  salt;  let  them 
boil  till  they  are  done  enough,  i.  e.  from 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  according  to  their 
age  and  size;  then  drain  them  in  a  colan- 
der, and  put  them  into  a  clean  gallon  stew- 
pan,  and  three  quarts  of  plain  veal  or  mut- 
ton broth  (drawn  from  meat  without  any 
spices  or  herbs,  &c.  which  would  overpow- 
er the  flavor  of  the  soup)  ;  cover  the  stewpun 
close,  and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire  to  stew 
gently  for  an  hour ;  add  a  tea-cupful  of  bread 
crumbs,  and  then  rub  it  through  a  tamis  in- 
to another  stewpan ;  stir  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  if  it  is  too  thick,  add  a  little 
more  broth:  have  ready  boiled  as  for  eating, 
a  pint  of  young  peas,  and  put  them  into  the 
soup ;  season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar. 

Some  cooks,  while  this  soup  is  going  on, 
slice  a  couple  of  cucumbers  (as  you  would 
for  eating) ;  takeout  the  seeds;  lay  them 
on  a  cloth  to  drain,  and  then  flour  them, 
and  fry  them  a  light  brown  in  a  little  but- 
ter ;  put  them  into  the  soup  the  last  thing 
before  it  goes  to  table. 

If  the  soup  is  not  green  enough,  pound  a 
handful  of  pea-hulls  or  spinage,  and  squeeze 
the  juice  through  a  cloth  into  the  soup:  some 
leaves  of  mint  may  be  added,  if  approved. 

PEAS,  GREEN.     (2)     Put  a 

pint  of  old  green  peas  into  three  quarts  of 
water,  a  slice  of  the  crumb  of  bread,  two 
onions,  a  sprig  of  mint,  some  salt  and  pep- 
|x.-r;  Imil  them  till  the  peas  are  perfectly 
soft,  then  pulp  them  through  a  sieve;  have 
ready  two  lettuces  stewed  tender  in  butter, 
ami  a  pint  and  a  half  of  young  green  peas 
U)iled;  put  them  into  the  soup  with  a  little 
spinach  juice,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 


the  juice  of  the  youngest  pea  pods,  and  boil 
it  all  together  lx  fore  serving. 

1'F.AS,  GREEN,  WITHOUT 

MEAT.  Take  a  quart  of  green  peas  (keep 
out  half  a  pint  of  the  ynui^e>l;  l,oil  them 
separately,  and  pit  them  in  the  soup  when 
it  is  finished);  put  them  on  in  hailing  \\ater; 
boil  them  tender,  anil  t!i"ii  pour  o:i'  the  wa- 
ter, and  set  it  by  t,.  make  the  .-oiip  w  itl> :  put 
the  pens  into  a  mortar,  and  pound  them  to 
a  ma?h;  tlie.i  put  them  into  two  cjii;ats  (  f 
the  water  you  boiled  the  peas  in;  stir  all 
well  together;  let  it  Ixiil  up  (or  about  fiu> 
minutes,  and  then  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve 
or  tiimis.  If  the  peas  are  good,  it  will  be 
as  thick  and  fine  a  vegetable  soup  as  need 
he  sent  tu  table 

PEAS,  OLD.    (1)   Put  a  pound 

and  a  half  of  split  peas  on  in  four  quarts  of 
water,  with  roast  beef  or  mutton  lx>nes,  and 
a  ham  bone,  two  heads  of  celery,  and  four 
onions,  let  them  boil  till  the  peas  be  suffi- 
ciently soft  to  pulp  through  a  sieve,  strain  it, 
put  it  into  tiie  pot  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
boil  it  nearly  an  hour.  Two  or  three  hand- 
fuls  of  spinach,  well  washed  and  cut  a  litde, 
added  when  (lie  soup  is  strained,  is  a  great 
improvement ;  and  in  the  summer  young 
green  peas  in  place  of  the  spinach.  A  tea- 
spoonful  of  celerv  seed,  or  essence  of  celery, 
if  celery  is  not  to  be  had. 

PEAS,  OLD.    (2)    Boil  in  five 

quarts  of  water  one  quart  of  split  peas,  an 
ounce  of  butter,  four  pounds  of  beef,  two 
carrots,  three  turnips,  four  heads  of  celery, 
three  onions,  some  salt  and  black  pepper; 
boil    them   till   the    |jeas  are  dissolved   and 
will  easily  pnlp,  put  it  all  through  a  sieve, 
then  put  the  soup  over  the   lire  with  Uiree 
ounces  of  butter  and  a  table-spoonful  of  flour, 
and  boil  a  small  bit  of  lean  ham  in  it,  till  it 
is  time  to  serve;    take  it  out  lie(or<;  dishing, 
and  have  ready  some  celery  stewed  in  butter, 
and  fried  bread  cut  in  dice,  and  dried  mint 
rubbed  very  fine,  to  send  to  table  with  it. 

PEAS,  OLD.    (3)  Boil  in  four 

quarts  of  water  a  shank  of  ham,  or  a  piece 
of  bacon,  and  almut  half  a  pound  of  mutton, 
or  salt  beef,  and  a  pint  of  split  peas;   boil 
all    together    very  gently  till    the    peas   are 
quite  soft,  strain  them  through  a  hair  sieve, 
and  bruise  them  with  the  back  of  a  spoon  till 
all  is  pulped  through,  then  Ixiil  the  soup  gent- 
ly for  one  hour  belore  serving.      Thin  slices 
of*  bread  toasted  and  cut  in  dice  to  be  served 
with  it,  either  upon  a  dish  or  in  the  soup; 
if  in  the  soup,  it  should  l>e  fried  in  butter, 
and  dried  mint  rublied  line  and  sent  to  table 
in  a  small  dish.     It  may  lx:  also  made  with 
fourpeiice  worth  of  bones,  boiled  for  some 


SOUPS 


211 


SOUPS 


hours  in  four  quaits  of  water,  with  a  carrot, 
a  head  of  celery,  three  onion?,  some  pepper 
and  salt,  strained,  anil  the  next  day  the  fat 
taken  of]',  :nnl  the  |x-a.s  boiled  in  (lie  liquor 
with  a  little  hit  of  butter,  till  sufficiently  ten- 
der to  pulp  through  a  sieve. 

PEAS,  PLAIN.     To  a  quart 

of  split  peas,  and  two  bead:!  of  celery  (and 
most  ciiuks  wmilil  put  a  large  onion),  put 
three  quart-  of  broth  or  soft  water;  Irt  them 
simmer  gently  on  a  trivet  over  a  slow  fire 
for  three,  hum's,  stirring  up  every  quarter  of 
an  hour  to  prevent  the  peas  burning  at  the 
bottom  of  the  soii|>-kettle  (if  the  water  boils 
away,  and  the  soup  gets  too  thick,  add  some 
lx)iling  water  to  it)  ;  when  they  are  well  sof- 
tened, work  them  through  a  coarse  sieve, 
and  then  through  a  fine  sieve  or  a  tamis; 
wa.-h  o'lt  your  slewpan,  and  then  return  the 
Soup  into  it,  and  give  it  a  U.il  up;  take  <>']' 
any  s-iiin  that  comes  up,  and  it  is  ready. 
Piv|>are  fri«-d  bread,  and  dried  mint,  as  di- 
rected in  Old  Peas  (2)  and  send  them  up 
with  it  on  two  side  dishes. 

Obs. — This   is  an  excellent  family  soup, 
produced  with  very  little  tumble  or  ex|x'iise. 

—  I'Kil'.ON.  (1)  Have  a  strong  beef 
stock,  highly  seasoned,  and  if  for  rich  soup, 
take  six  or  ei^ht  pigeons  according  to  their 
si/j',  wa.-h  tli'-iu  clean,  cut  off  the  necks,  pin- 
ions, livers  and  gi/.y.ards,  and  put  them  into 
the  stock;  quarter  the  pigeons  and  brown 
them  nieelv;  after  having  strained  the  stock, 

put  in  the  pig is;   let   them  Ixiil   till   nearly 

readv,  which  will  !»•  in  about  half  an  hour, 
then  thi<  l.en  it  with  a  little  flour,  robbed 
down  in  a  tea-cupful  of  the  soup,  season  it 
with  half  a  "rated  nuline,r.  a  t.iblt  -s|»>oiil'iil 
of  lemo'i  jmee  or  of  vinegar,  and  one  of 
mushroom  ketchup;  let  it  Ixiil  a  lew  minutes 
after  all  these  ingredients  are  put  in,  nnd 
serve  it  with  the  pig»-ons  in  the  tureen;  a 
better  thickening  than  Hour  is  to  lioil  quite 
tender  two  of  the  pigeon-,  take  off  all  the. 
meat  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  rub  it  through 
a  sie\r,  and  |xit  it,  with  the  cm 
into  the  -trained  soup.  To  make  partridge 
soup,  partridfM  mav  IK-  substituted  for  pig- 
eons, when  only  four  birds  will  be  n-<itiiie.|  ; 
pound  tlte  breast  of  one. 

PIGEON.    (2)    Take  eight  pig. 

eons,  cut  down  two  of  the  oldest,  anil  put 
them,  with  the  necks,  pinions,  li\ei.-,  .ml 
gizzards  of  tin-  oilier.*,  into  four  quar-  of 
water;  let  it  boil  till  the sulistance 
teil,  and  strain  it;  .season  the  pigeons  with 
mixed  spices  and  salt,  and  truss  them  as  for 
•tewing;  |iick  and  w>ish  clean  a  handful  of 
panley,  dims  or  young  onions,  a1 

deal  of  spinach  ;  chop  them;  |HII  in  a  fivmj;- 
;>  r:  a  ijii.  uler  of  a  pound  of  butler,  and  when 


it  boils,  mix  in  a  handful  of  bread  crumbs, 
keep  stirring  them  with  a  knife  till  of  a  fine 
brown;  boil  the  whole  pigeons  till  they  be- 
come tender  in  the  stock  with  the  herbs,  and 
fried  bread.  If  the  soup  be  not  sufficiently 
high  seasoned,  add  more  mixed  spices  and 
salt. 


PORTABLE.     Put  on,  in  four 

gallons  of  water,  ten  pounds  of  a  shin  of 
beef,  free  from  fat  and  skin,  six  pounds  of  a 
knuckle  of  veal,  and  two  fowls,  break  the 
bones  and  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces, 
sea«oii  with  one  ounce  of  whole  black  pep- 
per, quarter  of  an  ounce  of  Jamaica  pepper, 
and  tlie  same  of  mace,  cover  the  pot  very 
closely,  and  let  it  simmer  for  twelve  or  four- 
ted,  hours,  and  then  strain  it.  The  follow- 
ing day,  take  off  the  fat,  and  clear  the  jelly 
from  any  sediment  adhering  to  it;  boil  it 
gently  U|x>n  a  stove,  without  covering  the 
saucepan,  and  stir  it  frequently  till  it  be- 
<-•>!!,,•>  very  thick  and  in  lumps  about  the  pan. 
Put  it  into  saucers  alxmt  half  full,  and  when 
cold  lay  the  cakes  ii|xin  llannel  to  dr\  Ix-lore 
the  tire  or  in  the  sun ;  keep  them  in  a  tin 
lx>x,  with  white  pajx.T  between  each  cake. 
About  an  ounce  weight  will  make  a  pint  of 
rich  soup;  pour  boiling  water  ii|X)ii  it  with 
a  little  salt,  and  stir  it  till  it  dissolves.  It 
also  answers  well  for  gravies  and  all  brown 
sauces. 


FOR  THE  POOR.    Wash  an 

ox-head  very  clean ;    break  the  bones,  and 
cut  the  meat  in  pieces;  put  it  on  in  thirteen 
gallons  of  water,  and  a  peck  and  a  half  of 
potatoes,  half  a  peck  of  turnips,  the  same 
quantity  of  on  ions,  and  some  carrots;  peel  and 
cut  them  all  down.     A  handful  of  pot  herbe, 
and  two   quarts   of  oatmeal ;    season    with 
pepper  ami  salt.     Cover  the  pot  closely,  and 
let  it   stew    till  the  next  morning;  add  as 
i. inch  hot  water  as  ma\  ha\e  wasted  inboil* 
inn,  and  let  it  stew  for  some  hours  longer, 
w  hen  it  will  be  fit  for  use.    This  soup  will 
be  found  very  good  for  a  family  dinner. 

QUEEX.     Pound  in   a  marblft 

mortar  the  white  meat  of  three  cold  roasted 
low  N,  and  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds 
blanched ;  add  a  little  cream  whilst  pound- 
ing. Boil  this  with  tour  quarts  of  well-sea* 
-oni-il  beef  stock,  then  strain  it,  and  just 
before  serving  stir  in  a  pint  of  cream. 

SANTE.    (1)    Peel   four  larga 

onions,  cut  them  -mall,  with  lour  white  let- 
tuces, a  handful  of  spinach,  and  a  slice  of 
grated    bread.     Stew    all  these  ingredient* 
lor  an  hour  in  .1  quart  of  broth  ami  a  quarter 

1  of  a  pound  of  butler,  then  add  three  pints 
I  more  of  broth,  nkirn  off  all  the  fat,  and  boil 
I  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  season  « ilh  pepper 


SOUPS 


212 


SOUPS 


and  salt.  Before  serving,  add  half  a  pint 
of  good  cream.  A  pint  of  green  |>eas,  ad- 
ded will)  the  other  vegetables,  is  a  great  im- 
provement. 


SANTE.    (2)   Lay  six  or  eight 

slices  of  lean  ham,  with  some  beef  over  them, 
at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  then  some  veal, 
with  some  partridge-legs,  or  moor  game,  or 
chicken,  salt,  peppercorns,  Jamaica  pepper, 
three  or  four   cloves,  a  bay-leaf,    and    one 
clove  of  garlic:  let  the  whole  stew  together 
till  it  takes  a  fine  brown  color,  then  fill  it  up 
•with  half  water,  and  half  good  beef  stock; 
add  three  heads  of  celery,  two  good  turnips, 
parsley,   lemon     thyme,  two   carrots,  three 
large  onions,  and  a  small  bunch  of  winter 
savory;   whoa  the  whole  is  thoroughly  well 
done,  pass  it  through  a  lawn  sieve  into  a  ba- 
sin.    Cut  two  good-sized  turnips  and  three  j 
large  leeks,  into  pieces,  about   the  thickness 
of  a  cjuill,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  long;  fry 
these  together  of  a  nice  brown  color:  next, 
shred  two  cabbage-lettuces,  celery,  endive, 
sorrel,  and  chervil ;  and  stew  them  down  on 
a  very  slow  fire  with  a  small  bit  of  butter. 
When  done,  put  them  in  a  sieve  with  the 
turnips;   then  put  them  into  a  soup-pot,  and 
pour  the  son))  from  the  basin  over  them;  set  j 
it  on  a  stove,  skim  it,  and  as  soon  as  it  boils, 
set  it  on  one  side,  and  let  it  simmer  for  two 
hours    very  gently;    take  the   cmmb   of  a 
couple  of  French  rolls,  and  cut  it  into  round 
pieces,  which  brown  in  the  oven,  and  put 
them  into  the  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  upon 
them.     If  you  think  proper,  it  may  be  clari- 
fied, the  same  as  other  clear  soups;   but  the 
ixr.il  Soup  de  Sanfcoi'ght  not  to  be  clarified. 

SIMPLE.    Cut  small  one  pound 

of  carrots,    one    pound    of  turnips,    half  a 
pound  of  onions,  one  lettuce,  a  little  celery, 
and  a  handful    of  parsley;   stew    them    for 
twenty  minutes  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  some  salt  ami  pepper;    then  put 
them  into  three  quarts  of  stock,  made  with 
two  pounds  of  veal,  and  add  one  quart  of 
green  peas,  and  let  it  stew  for  three  hours. 
Press  it  through  a  sieve,  and  boil  it  up  before 
sending  it  to  table. 

SPRING.    Put  on  in  four  quarts 

of  water  a  knuckle  of  veal  cut  down,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  or  a  gam- 
mon of  bacon;  a  quart  of  green  split  peas; 
cut  small  three  or  four  onions,  three  turnips, 
a  little  parsley,  thyme,  celery,  and  one  leek  ; 
stew  them  all  together  till  the  jieas  are  very 
soft ;    Like  out  the  meat  and  press  the  re- 
mainder  through   a   fine  sieve;   season  the 
soup  with  pepper  and  salt.     Cut  small  like 
peas  a  bunch  of  the  tops  of  asparagus,  the 
licarts  of  two  or  three  cabbage*,  cutting  off 
the  top  part  and  the  outside  leaves,  and  a 


little  green  mint,  stew  them  till  tender, 
keeping  them  of  a  good  green,  and  add  them 
to  the  soup  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  serv- 
ing. If  it  should  not  be  green  enough, 
pound  some  spinach,  squeeze  the  juice 
through  a  cloth,  put  about  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  into  the  tureen,  and  pour  in  the  soup. 
This  is  the  best  method  to  make  green  peas 
soup  of  a  good  color. 

STOVE  OR  SPINACH.    Boil 

in  two  quarts  of  water  three  sliced  onions. 
Pick  and  clean  as  much  spinach  as  will 
make  two  large  dishes,  parboil  and  put  it  in 
a  cullender,  to  let  the  bitter  water  drip  from 
it ;  let  cold  water  run  upon  it  for  a  minute 
or  two,  and  then  press  out  the  water.  Knead 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  wilh  a  table- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  flour,  mix  it  with  the 
spinach,  which  boil  for  fifteen  minutes  in  the 
water  and  onions,  then  put  in  half  a  pint  of 
cream  or  good  milk,  some  salt  and  pepper, 
boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes  more.  In  the 
season  of  green  pens,  a  quart  added  with 
the  spinach  is  a  great  improvement.  It  is 
common  to  boil  a  lamb's  head  and  pluck 
with  tin;  *'x'\i,  and  send  them  to  table  in  the 
tureen.  The  soup  is  then  called  Lamb's 
.Stove;  but  wilh  the  peas  it  is  quite  as  good 
without. 


VEGETABLE.      Pare  and  cut 

small  one  dozen  of  common-sized  onions, 
five  large  yellow  turnips,  two  heads  of  celery, 
and  the  red  part  of  three  large  carrots  ;  wash 
and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces 
of  butler,  cover  it  closely;  and  when  the 
vegetables  are  a  little  soft,  add  to  them  four 
quarts  of  well-seasoned  gravy  soup  ma.-ie  of 
roast  beef  bones,  and  let  it  slew  four  or  five 
hours;  rub  it  through  a  tammy,  put  it  on  the 
fire,  boil  and  skim  it  before  serving. 

WINTER  VEGETABLE.    (1) 

Peel  and  slice  six  large  onions,  six  potatoes, 
and  four  turnips ;  fry  them  in  half  a  pound  of 
butter  or  very  fresh  dripping;  toast  a  crust 
of  bread  brown  and  hard,  put  it,  with  two  or 
three  heads  of  celery  cut  small,  some  herbs, 
pepper,  and  salt,  with  the  frhd  vc<;ei:ible>-, 
into  five  pints  of  water,  to  stew  jiivitiy  fa- 
four  hours,  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 
add  a  little  carrot  and  celery  cut  small,  and 
some  chopped  jwrsley,  one  anchovy  or  a  red 
hen-ing,  and  a  little  cayenne;  boil  it  till  the 
vegetables  are  tender. 

WINTER  VEGETABLE.    (2) 

To  every  gallon  of  water  allow,  when  cut 
down  small,  a  quart  of  the  following  vegeta- 
bles ;  equal  quantities  of  turnips,  carrots,  and 
potatoes,  three  onions,  two  heads  of  celery, 
and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs;  fry  them  br>>wn 
in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  add  the 


SOUPS 


SOUPS 


cut  up  in  pieces,  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
chickens. 


water  with  suit  and  pepper,  and  boil  it  till    A  cow-heel  that  has  been  previously  boiled, 
reduced  to  three  qnarte,  and  serve  it  with 
fried  toasted  bread. 

VENISON.     Boil  down  in  five 

quarts  of  water   two  pounds  of  a  shank  of 
veal,  or  fowl,  and  live  pounds  of  the  breast 
of  \riii.-on   cut  small;   two   or  three  onions 
chop|x'J,  some  uh,>!e  white  |>cp|>er  and  salt, 
with    a  quarter    of  a  pound  of  lean    hum. 
Let  it  stew  til!  it  br  completely  lulled  down, 
when  all  the  Mrcngth  will  IK:  extracted;  rub 
it  through   a  -ieve,  thicken  it   with  a  little 
butter,  kneaded  in  tluur,  and  add  a  pint  of 
Madeira,  and  boil  it  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  or  twenty  minutes. 

BROWN  VENISON.     Cut  in 

small   pieces   sik   or   seven   pounds  of  the 

breast  of  venison,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with 
two  or  three  unices  of  butter;  cover  it 
closely,  stir  it  once  or  twice,  and  let  it  stew 
an  hour.  .Mix  four  quarts  of  cold  water 
with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  tin:  blood,  put  it 
on  the  lire  in  another  .-lew  pun,  and  stir  it 
constantly  till  it  Ixjil;  tlu-n  add  the  stew  to 
it  with  an  union  minced  small,  and  a  whole 
carrot,  some  salt,  black  and  Jamaica  pep- 
per. If  the  meat  l>e  \onng,  let  it  boil  gent- 
ly for  two  hums;  if  old,  two  and  a  half  will 
be  necessary.  A  little  before  sen  ing,  take 
out  die  carrot  and  ull  the  bones,  leaving  a 
little  of  tin-  meat;  mix  in  half  a  pint  of 
Port  wine,  and  let  it  boil  a  short  time.  It 
may  be  thickened  with  a  little  flour  and 
batter. 


VERMICELLI.  The  day  lie- 
tore  it  is  require  I  make  tour  (marts  of  good 
Mock,  and  lnii  in  it  one  carrot,  one  turnip, 
four  onion.-,  one  or  two  jiarsley  roots,  three 
blades  ol  :>d  some  w  hite  pepper j 
strain  it,  and,  U-i'.ie  u.-in^,  take  oil'  all  the 
fat;  Ixiil  in  somt:  of  tilt  liquor  the  cnimli  of 
three  French  rolls  till  soft  enough  to  ma.-h 
gmooth;  boil  the  - "'|>  and  stir  well  in  the 
mashed  rolls;  lioil  it  fur  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  an  •_:.  add  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  beaten  with  three  i.ilile-spoonfuls 
:  Uiil  in  water  two  or  three  ounces 
of  \ermii  .Hi  lor  lilut-n  or  twenty  minutes, 
.-train  and  [Hit  it  into  the  tureen,  and  pour 
the  soup  upon  it. 

WHITE.     (1)    Boil  together  a 

knuckle  of  ve.il,  a  fowl,  or  two  chickens 
skinned,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  , in  onion,  some 
salt,  and  a  little  whole  white  pepper;  tike 
out  I  he  (h:ckeiis  ulicn  tender,  cut  (hern  ill 
joint-,  and  add  llvm  to  the  soup  when 
Ktraini  <:.  1«  •,:  up  the  \olks  of  nine  eggs,  mix 
diem  w  ilii  a  pint  ol'cieam  .nut  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  wi  il-i-.ii--.!  il'c;  siir  it  giudnally  into 
the  soup,  and  lieat  it  gently  before  serving. 


WHITE.     (2)    Take  a  good 

knuckle  of  veal,  or  two  or  three  short  skmks, 
I* >il  it  alxnit  four  hours,  with  some  whole 
white  pepper,  a  little  mace,  salt,  two  onions, 
and  a  small  bit  of  lean  ham;  strain  it,  and 
when  cold  take  off  all  the  fat  and  sediment ; 
beat  up  six  yolks  of  eggs  and  mix  them  with 
a  pint  of  good  cream,  then  pour  the  boiling 
soup  upon   it  by  degrees,  stirring   it  well, 
and  if  it  is  liked,  add  the  best  part  of  the 
gristles. 

WHITE.     (3)     Put  on  in  four 

quarts  of  water,  a  knuckle  of  veal,  six  pounds 
weight,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham  or 
bacon,  two  slices  of  the  crumb  of  bread,  one 
ounce  of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  put  in 
whole;  six  middling-sized  onions,  two  heads 
of  celery,  some  whole  white  pepper,  three 
blades  of  mace,  a  bunch  of  (xnsley,  and  a 
sprig  of  thyme;  stew  all  these  gently  for 
ei-ln  hours,  strain  it,  and  when  cold  take 
off  all  the  fat ;  boil  it,  and  just  before  serv- 
ing, take  it  off  die  fire,  and  stir  in  very 
gradually  a  pint  of  thick  cream. 

WHITE.     (4)     Boil  in  four 

quarts  of  water  four  |>oimds  of  veal,  and  a 
fowl,  with  some  whole  white  pepper,  a  little 
mace, and  three  middliug--i/.ed  onions  whole, 
and   a  bunch  of  parsley;  let  it  I 'oil  three 
hours,  strain  it,  and  put  it  on  again  to  get 
quite    hot,   and  just  liefore  serving,  stir  in 
gradually  half  a  pint  of  cream  with  the  yolks 
c.f  three  eggs  well  beaten.     Do  not  kt  it  boilj 
as  that  makes  the  eggs  curdle. 

WHITE.  (5)  Stew  in  three  quarts 

of  Ixjiling  water,  till  quite  tender,  a  knuckle 
of  \eal,  with  a  quarter  of  a  jKiund  of  whole 
rice,  three  whole  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
a  little  sweet  marjoram,  and  two  or  three 
blades  of  mace,  and  some  salt ;  a  little  before 
ili"  soup  is  -li  a  hied,  add  two  anchovies; 
strain  through  a  hair  sieve  and  Uien  through 
a  silk  one,  or  tammy,  put  it  again  upon  the 
fire,  and  stir  in  lialf  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  or 
a  pint  of  milk  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
beat  up  in  it;  let  it  be  hot  but  not  boiling. 
If  it  is  required  to  be  richer,  boil  a  fowl  in 
the  stock ,  w  i  i  h  t  wo  ounces  of  pounded  blanch- 
ed sweet  almonds. 


WHITE.    (6)     Put  on  in  five 

quarts  of  water,  four  pounds  of  a  shank  of 
>eal,  break  the  DOM  well,  let  it  simmer  till 
it  be  reduced  nearly  half;  boil  a  tea-cupful 

of  whole  i  ice  till  very  lender,  pulp  it  through 
•a  cullender,  strain  the  liquor,  ami  add  tho 
rice,  season  w  ith  salt  and  white  pepper,  let 


SPA 


214 


it  nirnmer  for  nearly  an  hour,  and  add,  a 
little  before  serving,  six  yolks  of  eggs  beaten 
extremely  well. 

SOUR  KROUT.  The  best  cabbage  for 
this  purpose  is  the  drum,  or  while  Stras- 
burgli,  and  it  should  not  be  used  till  it  has 
•endured  some  severe  frost ;  the  stocks  are 
then  cut  into  halves,  and  shred  down  as  fine 
as  possible  with  a  knife,  or  more  properly 
with  a  plane  maiie  in  the  fi inn  of  a  cucumber 
slice.  Hum  :i  little  juniper  in  a  cask  or  tub 
which  is  perfectly  sound  and  clean,  and  put 
a  little  leaven  into  the  seam  round  the  bot- 
tom,— flour  and  vinegar  may  lie  substituted 
for  ftie  leaven;  then  put  in  three  or  four 
bandittis  of  cabbage,  a  good  sprinkling  of 
salt,  and  a  tea -spoonful  of  caraway  seed,  and 
press  (his  hard  with  a  wooden  mallet;  next 
add  another  layer  of  cabbage,  with  salt  and 
caraway  seed,  as  at  first;  and  soon  in  the 
same  manner  until  the  cask  be  full,  pressing 
down  each  layer  (irmly  as,  you  advance.  A 
good  deal  of  water  will  come  to  the  top,  of 
which  a  part  may  be  taken  off.  The  cask 
being  full,  put  on  the  head  so  as  to  press 
ujion  the  cabbage,  and  place  it  in  a  warm 
cellar  to  ferment;  when  it  has  worked  well 
for  three  weeks,  take  off'  the  scum  which 
will  have  gathered  on  the  top,  and  lay  a 
clean  cloth  on  the  krout ;  replace  the  head, 
and  put  Iwo  or  three  heavy  stones  upon  it. 
The  juice  should  always  Maud  upon  the  top. 
Thus  in  a  good  cellar  it  will  keep  for  years. 
When  to  l>e  dressed,  it  is  boiled  for  five  or 
six  hours  in  water,  or  stewed  with  a  little 
gravy,  and  may  lx»  also  substituted  for  a 
crust  over  a  l>eef-steak  pie,  when  cheese  is 
grated  over  it. 

SOUR  KROUT  WITH  PIKE.  When 
the  krout  is  boiled,  clean  a  large  pike, 
scrape  and  cut  it  into  neat  pieces,  dip  them 
into  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  then  into 
bread  crumbs,  and  fry  them  of  a  nice  brown ; 
rub  some  butter  upon  a  dish,  and  put  into 
it  a  layer  of  krout,  and  some  grated  cheese, 
then  a  layer  of  pike,  and  a  little  sour  cream ; 
then  krout,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  be  full. 
On  the  top  put  some  bits  of  butter,  and 
some  good  broth  or  gravy;  strew  crumbs 
of  bread  thickly  over  it,  and  bake  it  half 
an  hour. 

SPANISH  PUFFS.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan, half  a  pint  of  water  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter;  stir  it  till  it  boils,  and 
mix  in  four  table-spoonfuls  of  Hour;  stir  it 
well  together,  and  add  six  yolks  and  four 
whiles  of  eggs,  two  at  a  time;  let  it  cool, 
and,  with  a  dessert-spoon,  drop  it  into  (wil- 
ing clarified  dripping  or  lard. 

To  make  ginger  puffs,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
pounded  ginger  may  be  added. 


SPARE  RIB  ROASTED.    Set  Pork. 

SPICE  FOR  WHITE  SAUCE.   Pound 

two  ounces  of  pepper,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  mace,  grate  one  nutmeg,  and  the  peel  of 
one  lemon;  mix  all  together  in  a  bottle. 

SPICE  FOR  GENERAL  USE.    One 

ounce  and  a  half  of  pepper,  cinnamon,  nut- 
meg, and  ginger,  half  an  ounce  each,  and 
eight  cloves;  pound  and  mix  all  together  in 
a  bottle.  A  little  of  each  kind  of  spice 
should  be  well  dried,  pounded,  and  kept 
separately  in  small  bottles,  which  should  be 
labelled. 

SPINACH,  TO  DRESS.  Pick  the 
spinach  with  great  care;  strip  the  leaves 
from  the  stalks,  and  wash  it  in  several  wa- 
ters, till  perfectly  clean ;  boil  the  spinach  in 
salt  and  water;  drain  it  well;  pound  it  in 
a  mortar,  and  put  it  into  a  slewpan  with  a 
little  butter  and  broth,  and  let  it  stew  over 
a  slow  fire  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  till 
it  be  very  dry ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  with  salt  and  grated 
nutmeg;  work  the  spinach  well,  till  it  is 
thick,  but  take  care  the  butler  does  not 
turn  to  oil.  Garnish  with  fried  toasU  of 
bread,  which  may  lie  cut  like  cock's  combs, 
or  in  any  other  form. 

SPINACH,  TO  BOIL.  (1)  Pick  it  very 
carefully,  and  wash  it  thoroughly  two  or 
three  times  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  then  put 
it  on  in  boiling  water  with  a  little  salt;  let 
it  boil  nearly  twenty  minutes,  put  it  into  a 
cullender,  hold  it  under  the  water  cock,  and 
let  the  water  run  on  it  for  a  minute ;  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  beat  it  perfectly  smooth 
with  a  beater  or  with  a  wooden  spoon,  add 
a  bit  of  butter,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
cream;  mix  it  well  together,  and  make  it 
hot  liefore  sen-ing.  When  dished,  it  is 
scored  in  squares  with  the  back  of  a  knife. 

SPINACH,  TO  BOIL.  (2)  After 
being  nicely  picked  and  well  washed,  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  with  no  more  water  than 
adheres  to  it;  add  a  little  salt;  cover  the 
pan  closely,  and  boil  it  till  tender,  frequent- 
ly shaking  it;  beat  it  quite  smooth,  adding 
butter  and  cream,  and  make  it  quite  hot. 
Spinach  may  be  served  with  poaclied  eggs, 
or  fried  sausages  laid  on  it. 

When  the  spinach  is  bitter,  it  is  prefera- 
ble to  boil  it  in  water. 

SPINACH  TOASTS.  Boil  some  spi- 
nach for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  squeeze 
out  all  the  water,  chop  it  small,  and  put  it 
into  a  mortar,  with  three  or  four  spoonfuls 
of  apple  marmalade,  the  yolks  of  four  hard- 
boiled,  and  three  raw  eggs,  two  biscuits 


SP  R 


215 


STO 


•oaked  in  cream,  sugar,  and  a  pinch  of  salt; 
pound  all  these  together  to  a  paste,  put  it 
into  a  dish,  an  I  mix  with  it  a  few  dry  cur- 
rant;", and  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of  melted 
butter.  Cut  some  slices  of  bread  half  an 
inch  thirk,  four  indies  long,  and  two  broad; 
toast  them  nicely,  and  spread  the  spinach, 
&c.  over  them,  to  the  tliickiifss  of  half  an 
inch,  wash  each  over  with  white  of  egg; 
place  the  toasts  on  a  baking-tin  (well  butter- 
ed) and  bake  them  for  half  an  hour.  \Vhun 
done,  grate  nutmeg,  and  squeeze  orange-juice 
over  theni,  and  serve. 

SPRATS,  TO  BAKE.  Clean  them; 
take  off  the  heads;  put  them  into  a  deep 
dish,  and  oner  them  with  vine-jar  and  wa- 
ter, equal  quantities  of  each.  To  a  quart  of 
liquid,  pit  half  an  ounce  of  whole  black  pep- 
per, a  litileallspire,  two  or  three  bay-leaves, 
Borne  salt,  and  an  onion.  Tie  paper  over 
the  dish,  and  bake  them  in  a  cool  oven,  or 
do  them  over  a  slow  lire  in  a  water  bath. 
Hermits  may  IK;  done  in  this  way.  Both 
will  keep  good  some  weeks. 

SPRATS,  STEWED.  Wash  and  dry 
your  sprats,  and  lay  them  as  level  as  you 
can  in  a  Mcwpan,  and  ln-twcen  every  layer 
of  sprats  put  three  peppercorns,  and  as  many 
allspice,  with  a  few  grains  of  salt;  barely 
cover  them  with  vinegar,  and  stew  them  one 
hour  over  a  slow  fire;  they  must  not  boil: 
a  bay-leaf  is  sometimes  added.  Herrings  or 
mackerel  may  be  stewed  the  same  way. 

SPRATS,  BROILED.  If  you  have  not 
a  sprat  gridiron,  gel  a  pi<.-ce  of  pointed  iron 
wire  as  thick  as  packthread,  and  as  long  as 
your  gridiron  is  broad;  run  this  through  the 
heads  of  your  sprats,  sprinkle  a  little  flour 
and  silt  over  them,  put  your  gridiron  over  a 
clear,  quick  lire,  turn  them  in  about  a  couple 
of  minutes;  when  the  other  side  is  brown, 
draw  out  tlie  wire,  nnd  send  up  the  fi.-h  v\  ith 
melted  butter  in  a  cup. 

Obs. — That  sprats  are  young  herrings,  is 
evident  by  tlwir  anatomy,  in  which  there  is 
no  perceptible  difference.  They  ap[jear  very 
soon  after  the  lien  in»s  are  gone,  and  seem 
to  be  the  spawn  jn>t  vivified. 

SI'KIMJ  FRUIT—  A  Mock  Goose- 
berry Sauce  for  Mackerel,  fyc.  Make  a 

maim.ilade  of  llm-e  do/j-n  Micks  ,,f  rhllUul), 
•weetened  with  inoi.-t  .-u_;ar ;  (KISS  it  through 
a  hair  -!.',••.  and  serve  up  in  a  sauce-boat. 

SI'KINC,    FRUIT    TART.       Prepare 

rhubaib  as  above:  cut  it  into  small  pieces 
into  a  iaii-'ii>h;  swi-rten  uiili  lo.if-sugar 
pounded;  cover  it  with  a  good  -hoi  t  crust 
paste;  sift  a  litilu  .-.ugar  over  UK  top,  and 


bake  half  an  hour  in  a  rather  hot  oven ;  serve 
up  cold. 

SPRING  CREAM,  or  Mock  Goose- 
berry Fool.  Prepare  a  marmalade  aa  di- 
rected for  the  pudding:  to  which  add  a  pint 
of  good  thick  cream;  serve  up  in  glasses,  or 
in  a  deep  dish.  If  wanted  in  a  ,-liape,  dis- 
MiUe  two  ounces  of  isinglass  in  a  little  water; 
strain  it  through  a  tamis,  and  when  nearly 
cold  put  it  to  tlie  cream ;  pour  it  into  a  jelly 
mould,  and  when  set,  turn  out  into  a  dish, 
and  serve  up  plain. 

SPRING   FRUIT   SHERBET.     Boil 

six  or  eight  sticks  of  rhubarb  (quite  clean) 
ten  minutes  in  a  quart  of  water;  strain  the 
liquor  through  a  tamis  into  a  jug,,  with  the 
peel  of  a  lemon  cut  very  thin,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  clarified  sugar;  let  it  stand  five 
or  six  hours,  and  it  is  fit  to  drink. 

SPRUCE  BEER.     See  Beer. 

SPROUTS  AND  YOUNG  GREENS. 

The  receipt  for  cabbages  will  answer  as  well 
for  sprouts,  only  they  will  be  boiled  enough 
in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

STEAKS  OR  CHOPS.     See  Chopt. 

STOCK,  FOR  BROWN  OR  WHITE 
SOUPS.  Take  a  pound  of  scale,  five  floun- 
ders, and  two  pounds  of  eels ;  cul  them  in 
pieces,  pul  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  aa 
much  water  as  will  cover  them,  a  little  mace, 
an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  a  head  of  celery, 
two  parsley  roots  sliced,  some  pepper  and 
salt,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs;  cover 
close  ;  strain  it  off  for  use ;  if  it  is  for  brown 
soup,  fry  the  fish  brown  iu  butter,  and  then 
put  it  to  stew. 

STOCK,  FOR  GRAVY  SOUP  OR 
GRAVY.  Cut  a  knuckle  of  veal  into  sli- 
ces, slice  also  a  pound  of  lean  beef,  and  a 
pound  of  the  lean  of  gammon  of  bacon ;  p«t 
these  into  a  stewpan,  with  three  scraped 
carrots,  a  couple  of  onions,  a  couple  of  tur- 
nips, two  licads  of  celery,  and  two  quart* 
of  water.  Let  the  meat  stew  till  quite  ten- 
der, but  it  must  not  lie  brown.  When  thus 
prepared  it  will  serve  eillicr  for  soup,  or 
brown  or  white  gravy ;  if  for  brown  gravy, 
it  must  be  first  colored  in  the  usual  manner. 

STOMACHIC  TINCTURE.  Peruvian 
bark,  bruised,  one  ounce  and  a  half,  orange- 
peel,  do.  one  ounce,  brandy,  or  proof  spirit, 
one  pint.  Let  tliese  ingredients  steep  for 
ten  days,  shaking  the  bottle  every  day;  let 
i in  qnict  two  days,  and  then  decant 
ibc  clear  liquor.  Dotte — a  tea-spoonful  in 


STR 


216 


STU 


a  wine-glass  of  water,  twice  a  day,  when 
you  feel  languid,  i.  e.  when  the  stomach  is 
empty,  about  an  hour  before  dinner,  and  in 
the  evening.     This  agreeable  aromatic  tonic 
is  an  effective  help  to  concoction ;  and  we 
are  under  personal  obligations  to  it,  for  fre- 
quently restoring  our  stomach  to  good  tern-  j 
per,  and  procuring  us  good  appetite  and  good  j 
digestion.    In  low  nervous  affections  arising 
from  a  languid   circulation,  and  when  the  j 
stomach  is  in  a  state  of  debility  from  age,  j 
intemperance,  or  other  causes,  this  is  a  most 
acceptable  restorative. 

N.  B. — Tea  made  with  dried  and  braised 
orange-peel,  in  the  same  way  as  common 
tea,  and  drank  with  milk  and  sugar,  has 
been  taken  by  nervous  and  dyspeptic  per- 
sons with  great  benefit.  Sucking  a  bit  of 
dried  orange-peel  about  an  hour  l>efore  din- 
ner, when  the  stomach  is  empty,  is  very 
grateful  and  strengthening  to  it. 

STRAWBERRY  CREAM.  Put  six 
ounces  of  straw  tarry  jam  to  a  pint  of  cream, 
pulp  it  through  a  sieve;  add  to  it  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  whisk  it  fast  at  the  edge  of  a 
dish,  lay  the  froth  on  a  sieve,  add  a  little 
more  juice  of  lemon,  and  when  no  more  froth 
will  rise,  put  the  cream  into  a  dish,  or  into 
glasses;  and  place  the  froth  upon  it,  well 
drained. 

STRAWBERRIES  AND  RASPBER- 
RIES. From  either  of  these  fruits  agree- 
able wine  may  be  obtained,  by  following  the 
rules  given  for  making  currant  wine;  but  it 
will  be  found  a  cheaper  and  a  better  meth- 
od, to  add  a  little  sirup  or  juice  of  the  fruit 
to  any  flavorless  currant  wine;  when  the 
fermentation  begins  to  decline,  currant  wine 
may  also  be  flavored  with  odoriferous  flow- 
ers, such  aa  cowslip,  elder,  or  mignionette. 
The  quality  of  roughness  is  communicated 
by  catechu  and  keno,  chips  of  oak  and  of 
beech,  and  also  the  sloe;  a  small  quantity 
of  these,  or  of  the  flowers,  is  put  into  the 
cask  when  the  first  fermentation  is  over,  and 
as  soon  a?  the  wine  has  acquired  the  desired 
flavor,  it  is  racked  and  fined.  The  flavor- 
ing articles,  such  as  orris-root,  cloves,  gin- 
ger, sweet  and  bitter  almonds,  are  put  into 
a  muslin  l>ag,  and  hung  in  the  cask  for  a 
few  days,  during  the  stage  of  insensible  fer- 
mentation, that  is,  after  the  first  fermentation 
has  ceased;  care  being  taken  to  tuste  the 
liquor  frequently,  so  that  the  flavoring  mat- 
ter may  be  withdrawn  as  soon  as  it  has  pro- 
duced the  desired  effect. 

STRAWBERRIES,  POUNDED,  FOR 
STRAWBERRY  CREAM.  Take  equal 
weight  of  sugar  and  of  strawberries ;  pound 
and  sift  the  sugar,  add  it  to  the  stra \vU-rries, 
and  pound  them  in  a  marble  mortar  till  per- 


fectly smooth.  Put  it  into  jars,  and  tie 
them  over  closely  with  paper.  It  will  keep 
good  for  several  months. 

STRAWBERRY  SOUFFLE.     Take 

a  basket  of  very  fine  strawl>erries,  pick,  and 
crush  them,  and  then  rub  them  through  a 
sieve.  Whisk  the  whites  of  eighteen  eggs 
to  a  firm  froth,  to  which  add  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  powder  sugar,  stir  them  together  as 
lightly  as  possible ;  then  mix  them  with  the 
strawberries.  I'our  the  whole  into  a  crotu- 
tade,  and  bake  it  for  an  hour  in  a  moderate 
oven ;  when  done,  glaze  it,  and  serve. 

STRAWBERRY  TART.  Pick,  and 
put  into  a  basin  two  quarts  of  the  best  scar- 
let strawberries,  then  add  to  them  half  a 
pint  of  cold  thick  clarified  sugar,  and  half 
a  pint  of  Madeira,  with  the  juice  of  two  or 
three  lemons;  mix  these  \\i-ll  together,  with- 
out breaking  the  strawberries,  and  put  them 
into  a  puff  paste,  previously  baked;  lie  care- 
ful to  keep  them  very  cool. 

STRING  BEANS.  See  French  Beans. 

STUFFING  WITHOUT  MEAT.  Sea- 
son a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  finely-minced 
beef  suet,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  grated 
bread,  with  grated  nutmeg,  lemon-peer,  lem- 
on thyme,  and  parsley,  salt,  and  pepper; 
mix  it  well  together,  and  bind  it  with  a 
weft-beaten  yolk  of  an  e«%,  when  it  may  be 
used  for  stuffing  veal  and  fowl. 

STUFFING  FOR  TURKEY  OR 
FOWL.  Wash  a  quart  of  oysters  in  their 
own  liquor,  strain  it,  and  put  into  it  the 
oysters,  with  a  little  mace,  whole  pepper, 
and  lemon-peel;  when  parboiled,  chop  small 
a  dozen  and  a  half,  add  an  equal  weight  of 
grated  bread,  twice  the  quantity  of  finelv- 
minced  beef  suet,  the  yolks  of  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  one  anchovy,  a  little  salt,  ]>e|>- 
|>er,  nutmeg,  lemon-peel,  and  some  minced 
parsley;  bind  it  will)  the  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs.  For  tire  sauce,  lx»il  with  the 
liquor  of  the  oysters,  a  pint  of  white  stock, 
half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  one  am-hovy, 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  strain  it,  and 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour,  beat  it  up  with  the  remainder  of  the 
oysters. 

STUFFING  FOR  A  HARE.  Parboil 
the  liver,  and  mince  it;  add  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  grated  bread,  double  the  quantity  of 
fat  bacon  chopped,  a  bit  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  walnut.  Season  with  pepper,  salt,  nut- 
meg, chopped  lemon  thyme,  and  parsley; 
bind  with  an  egg  beaten. 

STUFFING  FOR  VEAL,  ROAST 


STU 


217 


SUG 


TURKEY,  FOWL,  &c.  Mim-e  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  beef  .suet  (beef  inaiTinv  is  U-t- 
ter),  the  same  weight  of  bread  cruml>s,  two 
drachms  of  parsley  leaves,  a  dia. -Inn  ami  a 
half  of  sweet  marjoram  or  lemon  thyme,  and 
the  same  of  grated  leinon-|M-el  and  onion 
chopped  as  fine  as  possible,  u  little  |*-p|>er 
and  salt;  pound  thoroughly  togi-tln-r  with  tin- 
yolk  and  white  of  two  e^,  an •'. 
In  tin-  ve.il  with  ,i  skewer,  or  sew  it  in  with 
a  bit  of  thread.  Make  some  of  it  into  Iwlls 
JBB;  tl»ur  them,  and  boil,  or  fry 
them,  and  send  them  ii|)  as  a  varnish,  or  in 
a  side  dish,  with  roast  poultry,  veal,  or  cut- 
lets, «cc. 

.V  I!. — This  is  about  (lie  quantity  for  a 
turkey  poult:  u  vei-y  large  turkey  will  take 
nearly  twice  as  much.  To  I  IIP  above  may 
be  add'-d  an  ounce  of  dressed  h.tin ;  or  use 
equal  |>ai  ts  of  the  alx>\e  slutting  and  pork 
sausage  meat  pounded  well  together. 

Obs. — flood  .•tnlfing  has  always  liei-n  con- 
sidered a  chii-f  thing  in  cookery:  it  has  given 
immortality  to 

"Pnor  K»>:rr  fiitalt r,who  '(I  ;i  ei-nemns  niiiid, 
Ni>r  vMiu'cl  siiti-nit  to  have  Ins  hand  i entiii'd, 
But  a  line  1  at  nil, — vet  never  could  excel 
In  any  tiring  hut  fluffing  o(  Ins  veal." 

STI  FFI.M;  FOUHAUE.  TWO  oun- 
ces of  Ijeef  suet  fhop|N-d  line;  three  ounces 
of  6ue  .bread  crumbs  ;  parsley,  a  drachm; 
eschalot,  half  a  drachiii;  a  drachm  of  mar- 
joram, lemon  thyme,  or  winter  savory;  a 
drachm  of  |TMH  lemon-peel,  and  the  .-,ime 
of  pepper  an<l  salt:  mix  MH  with  the  white 
and  yolk  of  an  e_'i; ;  do  not  make  it  thin — 
it  mu.-l  IN-  nf  enhe>i\e  i-oiiMslence  :  if  your 
smiting  is  not  .-tilt  enoii^li.  it  will  fie  good 
for  no'hing:  put  it  in  the  hare,  and  sew  it 
up.  If  the  liur  is  <|nite  -  u  i.l.  you  may 
p:iil»'il  it,  and  mine-  it  very  fine,  and  add 
It  to  the  all. in-. 

STI.'KGEON,  BAKED.      Clean,    and 

take  tin-  >kin  from  a  small  sturgeon;  split  it 
along  the  Ix-lly,  without  M-paraling  it.  Lay- 
it  in  a  Luge  hakini;  dish,  season  it  With 
•all,  pepper,  pounded  sweet  herli>;  moisten 
will)  oil,  lemon-juice,  and  a  U.ltle  of  while 
wine.  I'm  it  in  tlK-  OM-II,  haste  ii  frequent- 
ly; nuike  it  a  nice  color,  and  serve  it  with 
its  own  gravy. 

STI  IKiKO.N,    Fltl.SII.  TO  UUOII.. 
Cut  it  into  cutlets;  rub  them   with  the  yolk 
of  Ml  esfu   lieal   up;    siren    tliem    over    ivi'li 
•one  parsley,  iMpeed  very   tine,  ami   mixed 
i-d  bread  crumlis,  p.epper. 
into  piece*  of  white  p.i[»-r  Ixitteied, 
i    geiuU.     Sauces; — oyster, 
melted  butlei  ,  and  .n 

STURUE(J.N ,  KIIESH.    Tlie  best  mode 
19 


of  dressing  this,  is  to  have  it  cut  in  thin 

slices  like  veal  cutlets,  and  broiled,  and  rob- 
bed over  with  a  bit  of  iMitter  ami  a  little 
|X'p|jer,  and  served  very  hot,  and  eaten  with 
a  squeeze  of  lemon-juice,  (ii cat  care,  how- 
ever, must  be  taken  to  cut  off  the  skin  be- 
fore it  is  broiled,  as  the  oil  in  the  skin,  if 
burned,  imparts  a  disgusting  flavor  to  the 
fish.  The  tlesh  is  very  fine,  and  comets 
nearer  to  veal,  perhaps,  than  even  turtle. 
Siurgeon  is  frequently  plentiful  and  reason- 
j  able  in  the  London  shops.  We  prefer  this 
mode  of  dressing  it  to  llie  more  savory  one 
of  .-teiviujf  it  in  rich  gravy,  like  caip,  he. 
which  overpowers  the  peculiar  flavor  of  the 
fish. 

STURGEON,   ROASTED.      Take  a 

large  piece  of  sturgeon,  or  a  whole  small 
one.  clean  and  skin  it  projierly;  lard  it  with 
eel  and  anchovies,  and  marinade,  it  in  a 
white  wine  marinade.  Fasten  it  to  the 
spit,  ami  roast  it,  basting  frequently  with 
the  marinade  strained.  1/et  the  fish  be  a 
nice  color,  and  serve  with  a  jiepper  sauce. 

BUI  T  TO  KEEP  FOR  A  TWELVE- 

.MO.Yl'H.  Choose  tlie  firmest  part,  and 
pick  it  free  from  skin  and  veins.  Put  it 
epaii,  and  set  it  at  some  distance 
from  the  lire,  in  order  that  the  suet  may 
melt  without  (Vying,  or  it  will  taste  disagree- 
able. Win-  i  it  is  .'iieh. -d.  pour  it  into  u  pan 
of  cold  watei.  Whin  il  has  caked  quite 
hard,  wij*  it  verv  dry,  f.-ld  it  in  fine  paper, 
and  then  in  a  linen  bag,  and  keep  it  in  a 
dry,  but  not  in  a  ho!  pla.-e.  Win  n  you  wish 
to  i-.-  ii.  -.-tape  it  fine,  and  it  will  make  a 
-'.  either  with  or  without  butter. 

SIT.T  MILK.  Cut  into  very  ctnai 
shav  ings  one  ounce  of  fn-.-li  I  eef  suet ;  die- 
s.'ive  il  slowly  over  the  lire  in  one  pint  of 
milk,  together  with  a  bit  of  k-mon-peel  and 
cinnamon;  sweeten  with  pounded  loaf  sugar. 

SfF.T  1)1  Ml'I.INCS.  This  batter 
should  U-  made  the  same  as  for  suet  ptid- 
ding,  (H-.-ond  receipt),  but  much  thicker,  let 
your  cloth  be  wetted,  shake  it  ;>ll  over  with 
!  Hour,  and  tie  up  in  several  parts  of  the  cloth, 
as  much  as  it  will  hold,  two  or  three  spoon- 
fuls uf  batter.  Or  you  may  make  (lie  batter 
as  usual,  and  [Hit  it  in  tea-cups,  well  butter- 
ed;  tie  them  in  clodis,  and  lioil  an  hour. 


STCAR,  TO  CLARIFY.     T,. 

thn-«-  |«mnds  of  loaf  sugar,  all  iw  tlie  beaten 

:  a  pint  and  a  half  of 

water;  break  the  sugar  small,  put  it  into  a 

.nod  braes  pan,  and  pour  the  water 
over  it;  let  it  stand  sometime  In-fore  it  be 
put  upon  the  tire ;  then  add  the  Ix-aten  white* 

^s;  ftir  it  till  the  sugar  be  entirely 


SWE 


218 


SWE 


dissolved,  and  when  it  boiU  up,  pour  in  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  cold  water;  let  it  boil 
»ip  a  second  time;  take  it  offtlie  fire  and  let 
it  settle  for  fifteen  minutes;  carefully  take 
off  all  the  scum ;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil 
it  till  sufficiently  thick,  or  if  required,  till 
candy  high;  in  order  to  ascertain  which, 
drop  a  little  from  a  spoon  into  a  small  jar 
of  cold  water,  and  if  it  become  quite  hard, 
it  is  then  sufficiently  done;  or  dip  (he  thevil 
into  the  sugar,  plunge  it  into  cold  water, 
draw  off  the  sugar  which  adheres  to  the 
stick,  and  if  it  be  hard  and  snaps,  the  fruit 
to  be  preserved  must  be  instantly  put  in  and 
boiled. 


SUGAR  ORNAMENTS. 

am.fl. 


See   Car- 


SUGAR  RUFFS.  A  pound  of  pounded 
and  sifted  loaf  sugar  beaten  well  with  the 
whites  of  three  eggs,  and  flavored  with  oil 
of  cinnamon,  lemons,  or  orange-flower  wa- 
ter, and  baked  in  the  same  way  as  the 
meringues,  served  in  a  napkin,  or  used  to 
garnish  dishes  of  preserves. 

SUGAR,  TO  BOIL.  To  even  pound 
of  sugar  allow  half  a  pint  of  water;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  till  the  sugar  be  entirely  dissolv- 
ed; when  it  first  boils  up,  pour  in  a  little 
cold  water,  and  when  it  boils  a  second  lime, 
take  it  off  the  fire;  let  it  settle  ten  minutes, 
carefully  scum  it,  and  boil  it  for  half  an  hour 
or  a  little  longer,  and  then  put  in  the  fruit. 

SWEETBREADS,  ITALIAN  ATTE- 
LETS.  Blanch  some  nice  sweetbreads,  and 
stew  them  in  a  well-seasoned  gravy,  made 
of  meat,  and  vegetables;  when  cold,  cut 
them  into  pieces  of  nearly  an  inch  square, 
put  them  into  a  sauce  d'atteleU,  and  let 
them  cool.  With  silver  skewers,  skewer 
the  sweetbreads,  and  a  bit  of  ready-dressed 
calf's  udder  alternately ;  make  them  all  as 
much  as  possible  of  an  equal  size,  and  of  a 
square  form.  Moisten  them  with  the  sauce, 
and  cover  them  with  grated  bread,  then 
dip  them  into  four  well  beaten  eggs,  strew 
over  them  some  more  grated  bread,  and 
level  it  with  a  knife;  fry  them  of  a  fine 
brown,  and  serve  with  an  Italian  sauce, 
white  or  brown. 

If  the  attelets  are  ready  before  they  are 
required  to  be  fried,  strew  grated  bread 
over  the  cover  of  a  stewpan,  and  lay  them 
upon  it. 

SWEETBREAD,  TO  BOIL.  Parboil 
it,  rub  it  with  butter,  and  broil  it  over  a 
slow  fire,  turn  it  frequently,  and  baste  it 
now  and  then,  by  putting  it  upon  a  plate 
kept  warm  by  the  fire  with  butter  in  it. 


SWEETBREADS  A  LA  DACPHISK. 

If  for  a  round  dish,  take  four  large  and  fine 
sweetbreads.  If  for  a  long  dish,  three  will 
suffice.  Pure  off  the  fat  and  sinews,  and 
blanch  them  in  warm  water,  parboil  them, 
and  when  cold,  lard  them.  Rub  a  stew- 
I'an  with  fresh  butter,  and  put  into  it  a  few 
sliced  carrots  and  onions,  then  a  layer  of 
slices  of  fat  bacon,  place  the  sweetbreads 
upon  the  bacon,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over 
them,  and  stew  them  u  ill)  a  great  deal  of 
fire  on  the  top,  and  a  very  slow  one  be- 
neath  ;  when  thev  are  nicely  browned,  cover 
them  with  a  piece  of  buttered  paper,  cut 
round,  and  lessen  the  fire  upon  the  top. 
They  will  require  to  stew  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  then  drain  and  put  them  into  a 
pan  with  some  glaze,  and  the  bacon  under- 
neath. Leave  them  in  the  glaze  till  dinner 
time. 

SWEETBREADS  FULL  DRESSED. 

Parboil  them,  and  let  them  get  cold;  then 
cut  them  in  pieces,  about  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  thic-k ;  dip  them  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
then  in  fine  bread  crumbs  (some  add  spice, 
lemon-peel,  and  sweet  herbs) ;  put  some 
clean  dripping  into  a  fi  vintj-pan:  when  it 
boils,  put  in  the  sweetbreads,  and  fry  them 
a  fine  brown.  For  garnish,  crisp  parsley 
and  for  sauce,  mushroom  ketchup  and  melted 
butter,  or  anchovy  sauce,  or  bacon  or  ham. 

SWEETBREADS,   SMALL   CASES 

OF  SCOLLOPS  OF.  Blanch  and  parboil 
Mime  sweetbreads,  cut  them  into  small  scol-' 
!  -.  Then  chop  separately,  and  finely,  half 
a  pint  of  mushrooms,  a  little  parsley,  and 
four  or  five  shallots,  add  a  little  fat  bacon 
rasped,  and  a  piece  of  fresh  butter;  season 
the  scollops  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little 
marc,  strw  it  all  together  over  a  slow  fire; 
when  done,  drain  off  the  fat,  place  the  scol- 
lops in  small  paper  cases,  which  have  been 
fried  in  olive  oil,  cover  them  with  plenty  of 
finely-chopped  herbs,  and  strew  over  them 
fried  bread  crumbs;  lay  the  paper  cases  for 
a  moment  into  the  oven,  and  before  serving, 
pour  into  each  a  little  rich  gravy,  and  a  little 
lemon-juice. 

SWEET   HERBS.     See  Herbs. 

SWEETMEAT     FRITTERS.       Cut 

small  any  sort  of  candied  fruit,  and  heat  it 
with  a  bit  of  fresh  butter,  some  good  milk, 
and  a  little  grated  lemon-peel ;  when  quite 
hot,  stir  in  enough  of  flour  to  make  it  into  a 
stiff  paste,  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  work  in 
eight,  or  ten  eggs,  two  at  a  time;  when 
cold,  form  the  fritters,  and  fry,  and  serve 
them  with  pounded  loaf  sugar  strewed  over 
them. 


S  YL 


219 


TAR 


SYLLABUBS.  Take  the  juice  of  a 
large  lemon,  the  peel  (pared  very  tliin),  a 
glass  of  brandy,  two  of  white  wine,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  pdwdtr-eugar;  put 
these  ingredients  into  a  pan, and  lease  them  ; 
the  next  day,  add  a  pint  of  thick  cream,  and 
the  whites  of  two  eggs;  whip  the  whole 
well,  and  pour  the  syllabub  into  glasses. 
They  arc  the  better  for  keeping  a  day  or 
two.  If  the  syllabubs  are  not  wanted  quite 
so  good  as  the  above,  raisin  or  mountain 
wine  will  do  as  well  as  brandy. 

SYLLABUB,  SOMERSETSHIRE.  Put 
a  pint  of  Port,  and  a  pint  of  Sherry,  or 
any  other  white  wine,  into  a  large  bowl, 
sweeten  it  according  to  taste ;  milk  die  bowl 
full;  in  about  twenty  minutes'  time,  cover 
it  tolerably  high  with  clouted  cream;  grate 
nutmeg  over  it ;  add  pounded  cinnamon,  and 
nonpareils. 

SYLLABUB,  STAFFORDSHIRE.  Put 
a  pint  of  cider,  a  glass  of  brandy,  sugar,  and 
nutmeg,  into  a  bowl,  and  milk  into  it;  or 
|i"iu  warm  milk  from  a  large  tea-pot  some 
height  into  it. 

SYLLABUB.  (1)  One  pound  of  ratafia 
cakes  pounded  anil  steeped  in  two  bottles 
of  Port  wine,  one  of  claret,  and  one  of 
brandy,  the  grated  peel  and  juice  of  two 
lemons,  one  large  nutmeg  grated,  and  two 
ounces  of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and 
pounded  will)  a  little  rose-water,  and  pound- 
ed  sugar  sufficient  to  make  it  sneet — 1'ut 
all  the:*'  ingredients,  well  mixed,  into  a 
large  China  Bow^orhowbof  an  n]iia!  sixe. 
and  let  the  milk  of  a  good  cow  Ixj  milked 
U|H>n  tlicm  ;  add  a  little  rich  CUMIN  :nul  .-i ti- 
ed loaf  sugar,  and  cover  it  to  keep  it  warm. 
It  may  be:  -ened  out  into  glasses  with  a  silver 
ladle. 

SYLLABUB.  (2)  A  large  glass  of  Madei- 
ra, one  of  rich  sweet  w  ine,  and  half  a  one  of 
ratafia,  half  a  pound  of  |x>uiidcd  loaf  sugar, 
the  grated  peel  of  a  large  lemon,  the  juice 
of  two,  and  a  little  |xmndrd  cinnamon;  stir 
it  all  together  till  the  sugar  l>e  dissolved,  and 
add  a  quart  of  /ich  en-am;  whisk  it  well; 
lay  some  macaroons  into  the  Ixittom  of  :i 
dish,  and  pile  tlte  frothed  syllabub  high  upon 
it.  It  may  l>c  kept  nine  or  ten  da 
better  the  third  and  fourth  than  when  first 
made. 

SYLLABUB,  SOLID.     A  quarter  of  a 

pint  of  m  iniiiain,  the  Mine  of  white  wine, 
the  grated  peel  of  two,  and  juice  of  one 
lemon ;  sweeten,  and  add  it  to  a  <|iiart  of 
rich  cream;  whi*k  it  for  an  hour,  and  put  it 
into  glasses.  It  will  keep  a  week  in  cold 
weatW. 


SYLLABUB,  COMMON.  Half  a  pint 
of  currant,  the  same  of  Port  or  white  wine, 
half  a  gratt-d  nutmeg,  and  the  peel  of  a 
lemon;  sweeten  well  with  pounded  loaf  or 
givxl  brown  sugar,  and  mix  it  together  in  a 
China  bowl,  and  when  the  sugar  dissolves, 
milk  upon  it  three  or  four  pints  of  milk. 
Serve  it  when  cold. 

SYLLABUB,  WHIPT.  (1)  Mix  to- 
gether half  a  glass  of  brandy,  a  little  lemon- 
juice,  and  grated  peel,  with  sugar  enough  to 
sweeten  the  whole;  stir  it  into  a  pint  of 
thick  cream,  and  add  the  well-beaten  whites 
of  six  cg:is;  whisk  it  for  an  hour,  and  put 
the  froth,  as  it  rises,  upon  a  sieve  to  dram; 
put  a  little  Port  and  sweet  wine  into  glasses, 
and  fill  them  up  with  the  froth. 

SYLLABUB,  WHIPT.  (2)  Mix  with 
a  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  sweet  wine, 
a  glass  of  brandy,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  grat- 
ed nutmeg,  six  ounces  of  sifted  loaf  sugar: 
nearly  fill  the  custard-glasses  with  tire  mix- 
ture, and  lay  on  with  a  spoon  some  of  the 
whip. 


T. 

TAMIS,  a  coarse  kind  of  cloth  for  strain- 
ing soups  and  gravies. 

TARTE,  ROYAL  BERLIN.      Take 

half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  and  having 
blanched,  |x>ni\d  them  with  six  eggs,  in  a 
marble  mortar  to  a  very  line  paste,  add  to  it 
a  pound  of  broken  sugar,  a  pound  of  fresh 
bnllei ,  and  the  _;:at.d  rind  of  two  lemons, 
Ix  at  it  well  as  each  ingredient  is  put  in; 
lay  about  sixteen  or  eighteen  ounces  of  r.\(i- 
ed  flour  on  the  slab,  place  the  almond  paste 
on  it,  ami  kne.id  them  well  together.  Di- 
vide this  into  several  pieces,  which  roll  to 
the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  from 
these  cut  from  twelve  to  sixteen  circular 
layers,  tlie  largest  about  seven  inches  in 
.  the  rest,  each  somewhat  smaller 
than  the  other ;  wlien  all  are  cut,  place  them 
on  white  pa[>er  on  tins,  and  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven  to  a  clear  brown,  then  take 
them  out,  and  let  them  cool.  As  soon  a* 
cold,  place  the  largest  piece  on  a  China 
di.-h,  ol'a  sufficient  size  to  let  it  lay  tlat,  and 
spread  over  it  equally  some  preserved  fruit; 
cover  this  with  the  second  sized  layer,  on 
which  also  spread  preserved  fruit;  then  a 
third  layer,  and  .->  on  until  all  the  paste  is 
uned,  taking  care  to  put  each  layer  in  its 
proper  order,  so  that  the  whole  may  form  a 

c •,  ami  th.it  U-twi-rn  every  one   must  be 

a  dilieient  kind  of  preserve;    wlien   done, 
glaze,  and  ornament  it  as  follows:  cut  some 


TARTS 


220 


TARTS 


candied  lemon,  ;md  orange-peel  into  the 
form  of  leaves,  which  arrange  in  garlands 
round  the  tart,  putting  here  and  there  a 
small  preserved  fruit;  when  done,  replace  it 
in  the  oven  for  two  or  three  minutes  lo  dr,, 
and  then  serve. 

TARTLETS.  (1)  Butter  some  small 
tartlet  pans;  line  them  with  a  nice  thin 
puff  pas'.i',  mark  it  neatly  round  the  edges, 
bake  them ;  when  they  are  cold,  fill  them 
with  custard,  preserve,  or  a:iy  sweetmeat 
you  think  proper,  and  if  you  choose,  pour 
custard  over. 

TARTLETS.  (2)  Roll  out  the  paste 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  lay 
upon  it  the  top  part  of  the  patty-pan ;  cut  it 
round  witli  the  paste  cutter.  Rub  die  patty- 
pans with  a  little  butter,  and  line  them  with 
the  paste,  and  place  in  the  middle  a  little  bit  of 
bread,  which  take  out  when  they  arc  baked. 
They  may  be  filled  with  any  preserved  fruit, 
and  a  star  or  leaf  of  paste  placed  on  the  top. 
To  make  ornaments  of  paste,  roll  it  quite 
thin,  and  as  even  as  possible;  cut  it  with 
tin  atars,  leaves,  or  any  other  form,  and 
bake  them  a  light  brown  color,  upon  flat 
tins  dusted  with  flour. 

TART,    APPLE,   CREAMED.      Use 

green  codlings,  in  preference  to  any  other 
apple,  and  proceed  as  in  the  last  receipt. 
When  the  pie  is  done,  cut  out  the  whole  of 
the  centre,  leaving  the  edges;  when  cold, 
pour  on  the  apple  some  rich  boiled  custard, 
and  place  round  it  some  small  leaves  of  puff 
paste  of  a  light  color. 

TART,  CHERRY.  The  cherries  may 
be  stoned,  and  a  few  red  currants  added; 
sweeten  with  loaf  or  brow-n  sugar,  and  put 
into  the  bottom  of  the  dish  a  small  tea-cup; 
cover  it  with  paste. 

TART,  CRANBERRY.  Take  cran- 
berries, pick  and  wash  them  in  several  wa- 
ters, put  them  into  a  dish,  with  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  moist 
or  pounded  loaf  sugar,  to  a  quart  of  cran- 
berries. Cover  it  with  puff  or  tart  paste 
and  bake  it  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  if 
tart  paste  is  used,  draw  it  from  the  oven 
five  minutes  before  it  is  done,  and  ice  it,  re- 
turn it  to  the  oven,  and  send  it  to  table 
cold. 

TART,  CURRANT.  To  a  quart  of 
red  currants  add  one  pint  of  red  raspber- 
ries, strawberries,  or  cherries  ;  sweeten  them 
well  with  brown  sugar;  l>efure  putting  in 
the  fruit,  line  the  side  of  the  dish  with  tart 
paste,  place  in  it  a  small  tea-nip,  put  in  (he 
fruit,  and  cover  it  with  paste. 


Four  ounces  of  brown  sugar  are  general- 
ly allowed  to  a  quart  of  fruit. 

TART    OF    PRESERVED    FRUIT. 

Cover  a  flat  dish,  or  tourte  pan,  with  tart 
paste,  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  roll 
out  puff  paste,  half  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  it 
out  in  strips  an  inch  wide;  wet  the  tart 
paste,  and  lay  it  neatly  round  the  pan  by 
way  of  a  rim  ;  fill  the  centre  with  jam  or 
marmalade  of  any  kind,  ornament  it  with 
small  leaves  of  puff  paste,  bake  it  half  an 
hour,  and  send  it  to  table  cold. 

The  al>ove  may  be  filled  before  the  puff 
paste  is  laid  on,  neatly  strung  with  paste, 
and  the  liui  (nit  over  after. 

Tlie  most  general  way  of  sending  tourtes 
to  table,  is  with  a  croquante  of  paste,  or  a 
caramel  of  spun  sugar  put  over  after  it  is 
baked. 

TARTS,  PRESERVED  FRUIT.   Rub 

over  with  a  little  butter  an  oval  dish,  or  tin 
shape,  line  it  with  (Kiste,  and  fill  it  w  ith  any 
sort  of  preserved  fruit.  Roll  out  a  bit  of 
paste  thin,  and,  with  a  paste  cutter,  cut  it 
into  narrow  strips;  brush  with  water  the 
rim  of  the  shape,  and  lay  the  bars  of  paste 
across  and  across,  and  then  put  round  a 
border  of  paste,  and  mark  it  with  the  paste 
cutter. 

TARTS,  RIPE  FRUIT.     Gooseberries, 

damsons,  morello  cherries,  currants  mixed 
with  raspberries,  plums,  green  gages,  white 
plums,  &c.  should  be  quite  fresh  picked,  and 
washed:  lay  them  in  the  dish  with  the  centre 
highest,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
moist  or  loaf  sugar  pounded  to  a  quart  of 
fruit  (but  if  quite  ri|>e  they  will  not  require 
sn  much);  add  a  little  water;  rub  the  edges 
of  the  dish  with  yolk  of  egsj;  cover  it  with 
tart  paste,  about  half  an  inch  thick  ;  press 
\otir  thumb  round  the  rim,  and  close  it  well; 
pare  it  round  with  a  knife;  make  a  hole  in 
the  sides  below  the  rim;  bake  it  in  a  mode- 
raie-heated  oven  ;  and  ten  minutes  before  it 
is  done,  take  it  out  and  ice  it,  and  return  it 
to  tiie  oven  to  dry. 

TART,  RHUBARB.  Strip  off  the  peel, 
and  if  the  rhubarb  is  large,  cut  it  into  two 
or  three  strips,  and  then  into  bits  about  an 
inch  long;  sweeten  well  with  broun  sugar, 
and  cover  the  dish  with  paste. 

TART  PASTE,  FOR  FAMILY  PIES. 

Rub  in  with  the  hand  half  a  pound  of  batter 
into  one  p.>und  and  a  quarter  of  Hour,  mix  it 
with  hall' a  pint  of  water,  and  knead  it  well. 

TART  PASTE,  SWEET,  OR  SHORT 
AND  CRISPKU.  To  one  |xmitd  and  a  quar- 
ter of  fine  flour  add  ten  minces  ot'  fresh  butter, 


TEW 


221 


TIM 


the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten,  and  three  oun- 

silu-d  loaf sugar;  mix  up  together  with 
half  a  pint  i if  new  milk,  and  knead  it  well. 
.\.  B. — This  crust  i.-  frtx|tiently  iced. 

TK  \   CREAM.     Infuse  an  ounce  of  the 
best  green  tea  in  lialfa  pint  of  boiling  milk, 
simmer  it  fi\e  minutes,  then  strain  it  through 
a   tammy,  pie-sin,-    the  leaves    w-ll.       I' 
pint  of  rich  •  it  the  \olks  of  f,ur 

.    well   lie.i'eu,  and  a  sufi'iciem  quantity 
i  i:i'  d  .-n^ai  ;   pour  this  whilst  hot  to  the 
milk,  stir  ili  •••!!;  put  in  a*  much 

rlanlied  i-in,'l;Lss  as  will  set  it,  and  |«iur  the 
cream  into  the  mould,  or  gla>.-es  ;  place  them 
on  ice;  when  perfectly  cold,  turn  it  out  of 
the  mould,  or  serve  in  the  glasses. 

TK  \l._  KOASTEI).  Shred  a  little 
lemon-peel,  and  mix  it  with  a  bit  of  butler, 

p'llt,    pepper,    ;.  id    lemon-juice ;     stu'Y   your 
birds  with  (his,  ei,\er    them  lir>t    wit!)   slices 
,   then    IMP. .11,  and    lastly,  buttered 
!  inkle  1   with  salt;    tit-  them  up  se- 
curely,   f.i-ten    i|i--m     to    the    -;:ii.   ami    roast 
them.      \Vhen  don«,  let   the  butter  run  out, 
remove  the  wrappers,  and  dish  them.     Serve 
them  w  ith  a  .-.i  i  .llnws:  p"t  into 

n^nole,  a 

spoonful  of  consomme,  a  bit  of  gla/.e,  die 
rind  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  |>ep- 
per;  give  them  a  Ixiil  tip  tojji-ther,  and  strain 

it  0\er  the   te.ll. 

TEVH.      They  arc  a  fine-flavored  fresh 

wati-r  ti.-h  ;  wlieti  »<« .d.  the  eves  are  bright, 
the  Ixidy  stitT,  and  the  outside  flee  from  >lime.  ; 
tench  should  I-  -n  :t~  can_'hl. 

TENTH,  FKIK!>.  Take  a  couple-  of 
large  teiH-ll,  scale  and  rlean-e  them  a-  for 
broiling.  < 'ill  c.lV  the  tins,  split  them  down 
the  back,  take  mil  the  Ix.nes;  sprinkle  them 
with  Hour  and  sail;  -q'iee/e  a  liltle  lemon- 
jui.-e  over,  and  fry  them  in  Uitter,  and  serve 
them  dry. 

IT.M  II.  !{t)\<TK|).  Take  off  scales, 
h.-ads,  and  tins,  of  the  lench,  cleans*-  and  dry 
them  wll,  then  put  into  e.ich  a  little  biiller, 
mixed  with  sweet  li.'ibs;  lay  lliem  for  a  In  nit 
live  minutes  in  melted  butter,  with  salt,  |*-p- 
|>er,  and  sweet  herbs;  wrap  each  li.-h  in  |>;i- 
per,  fasten  them  to  a  spit,  and  roast  them. 

TF.NVAIIDIDltl.i;.  A  pint  of  table 
beer  (or  ale,  if  you  intend  it  for  a  supplement 
to  your  '•  nijfht  cap"),  a  tab!e-s|xionlnl  of 
brandy ,  and  a  tea-s|H.onfm  of  blown  sugar, 
or  rlaritied  Minp;  a  little  uraie.l  mitiiHg  or 
(linger  may  l«-adde<l,and  a  p. II  of  ver\  tliin- 

CUt    leill'.ll.; 

Ob*. — HelSre  our  r»-aders  make  a'iv  re- 
maiks  on  this  c..mi»-iti..ii,  we  beg  ut  them 
19* 


to  taste  it:  if  the  materials  are  good,  aud 
their  palate  \il,i.ue>  in  unison  with  our  own, 
they  will  liud  It  "lie  i.|  tile  ple.i^a.iiest  bever- 
ages lhf\  e\er  put  to  theii  lips;  and,  as  Lord 
Kntlnen  s«\s,  "  this  is.  a  right  gossip's  cup 
that  far  exceeds  all  the  ale  that  ever  Mother 
liiinch  made  in  her  lite-time." 

TMK 'HI-AINU.  Clarified  butter  is  beat 
lor  this  purpose;  but  if  you  have  none  ready, 
put  s.mie  fresh  butter  into  a  ftewpan  over  a 
.-low,  clear  lire;  when  it  is  melted,  add  fine 
llotir  sullicient  to  make  it  tlk-  thickness  of 
•ir  it  well  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon  t'.i  tifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  till  it  ie 
(|ni'e  Mii'.oth,  and  the  color  of  a  guinea:  this 
inn-t  be  done  very  iri.idnaHy  and  piitiently; 
if  you  put  it  over  too  fierce  a  (ire  to  hurry  it, 
it  will  In-come  bitter  and  empyreumatic:  pour 
it  into  an  earthen  pan,  and  keep  it  lor  use. 
It  will  keep  good  a  fortnight  in  summer,  and 
longer  ill  winter. 

A  large  sp<x>nfnl  will  generally  be  enough 
to  ihicken  a  <|u:ut  of 

Obs. — This,  in  the  French  kitchen,  it 
railed  roux.  Be  particularly  attentive  in 
making  it;  if  it  yets  any  burnt  smell  or 
taste,  it  H  ill  spoil  every  thing  it  is  (nit  into. 
When  cold,  it  should  be  thick  enough  to  cut 
out  with  a  knife,  like  a  solid  paste. 

It  is  a  very  essential  article  in  the  kitchen, 
and  is  the  Uisis  of  consistency  in  most  made- 
('i-li'-,  soii|Ki,  sauces,  and  ragouts;  if  the 
^r, nil's,  kc.  are  too  thin,  add  this  thicken- 
ing, more  or  less,  according  to  the  consistence 
yon  would  wish  them  to  have. 

-In  making  thickening,  the  lew 
Inner,  and  the  more  Hour  you  use,  the  bet- 
ter ;  they  must  IK.-  thoroughly  worked  to- 
gether, and  the  broth,  or  soup,  £cc.  you  put 
them  t  ,,  addeil  by  degrees:  take  especial 
care  to  incorporate  tln;m  well  together,  or 
.  will  taste  floury,  and  have 
a  disgusting,  jiivasy  appearance:  therefore, 
after  sou  have  thickened  \onr  sauce,  add  to 
it  some  broth,  or  warm  waits-,  in  ihe  pro- 
poilioa  of  two  lahle-ipoonfiils  to  a  pint,  and 
set  it  by  the  side  of  ihe  tin-,  to  raise  any  fat, 
Sic.  that  i.-  noi  thoroughly  incorporated  with 
the  gravy,  which  you  mu-t  carefully  reiiKive 
as  it  come*  to  the  top.  This  u  called 
cleansing,  or  finishing  the  sauce. 

1  lalf  an  ounce  of  butler,  and  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  (lour,  are  about  the  proportion  for  a 
pint  oi  r-.mee  to  make  it  as  think  as  cream. 

,\.  IS. — The  fat  skimmings  off  the  top 
o1  the  broth-pot  are  sometimes  substituted 
for  butler;  some  cooks  merely  thicken  their 
sotips  and  sauces  with  Hour. 

TIMi'.XLF.  I'm  a  pound  of  flour  on 
the  slab,  make  a  hole  in  tin;  middle  of  it, 
into  which  jx.ur  a  little  water,  three  or  four 
'  oil,  a  quarter  of  a  (Kjund  of  but- 


TO  A 


222 


TOM 


ter,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  a  pinch  of 
gait ;  knead  these  ingredients  thoroughly  into 
the  flour,  until  it  becomes  a  tolerably  firm 
paste;  roll  it  out  to  nearly  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  line  one  large,  or  several  small 
plain  round  moulds,  with  this  paste;  let  the 
moulds  lie  well  buttered,  and  the  paste  come 
about  half  an  inch  above  the  top  of  the  mould  ; 
fill  your  timbale  with  any  farce,  or  ragout, 
you  think  proper,  cover  it  with  a  layer  of 
paste,  pressing  the  edges  together;  bake  it, 
and  when  done,  turn  'he  timbale  on  a  dish, 
make  a  hole,  pour  in  some  rich  sauce  or 
gravy,  and  serve. 

TINCTURE  OF  ALLSPICE.  Of 
allspice  bruised,  three  ounces,  apothecaries' 
weight ;  brandy,  a  quart.  Let  it  steep  a 
fortnight,  occasionally  shaking  it  up;  then 
pour  oil  the  clear  liquor:  it  is  a  most  grateful 
addition  in  all  cases  where  allspice  is  used, 
for  making  a  bishop,  or  to  mulled  wine  ex- 
tem|K>re,  or  in  gravies,  &c.  or  to  flavor  and 
preserve  potted  meats. 

TIPSY  CAKE.  Pour  over  a  sponge 
cake,  made  in  the  form  of  a  porcupine,  as 
much  white  wine  as  it  will  absorb,  and  stick 
it  all  over  with  blanched  sweet  almonds,  cut 
like  straws;  or  pour  wine  in  the  same  man- 
ner over  a  thick  slice  of  sponge  cake,  cover 
the  top  of  it  with  preserved  strawlterries  or 
raspberries,  and  stick  cut  almonds  all  round  it. 

TOAST  AND  CHEESE.     See  Cheese. 

TOAST,  WITH  BUTTER.  Spread 
butter  over  some  slices  of  fried  bread ;  lay- 
on  them  sweet  herbs,  tossed  up  in  melted 
butter,  and  serve. 

TOASTS,  GENOA.  Lard  a  French 
roll  with  partly  anchovies,  and  partly  liam; 
cut  the  roll  into  slices,  lay  on  each  a  thin 
slice  of  l>acon,  dip  them  into  batter,  and  fry 
them ;  drain,  and  serve  with  ravigote. 

TOASTS,  GRENADA.  Cut  some  fat 
and  lean  bacon  into  dice,  give  them  a  few 
turns  over  the  fire  with  parsley,  scallions, 
shallots,  pepper,  salt,  and  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs;  stir  it  frequently,  till  it  forms  a  kind 
of  forcemeat,  spread  it  over  slices  of  bread, 
cut  of  an  equal  thickness,  and  fry  them. 

TOASTS,  ITALIAN.     Cut  s  me  slices 

of  bread,  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness, 
frv  them  in  sweet  oil,  let  it  be  dry,  and 
crisp,  lay  them  on  a  dish,  and  spread  over 
them  any  light  good  farce  you  may  think 
proper;  pour  over  them  an  appropriate 
sauce  and  serve  them. 

TOAST    AND    WATER.      Pare   the 


crust  off  a  thin  slice  of  stale  bread,  toast 
it  brown  upon  both  sides,  doing  it  equally 
and  slowly,  thai  it  may  harden  without  being 
burnt;  put  it  into  a  jug,  and  pour  upon  it 
boiling  water;  cover  the  jug  with  a  saucer, 
and  set  it  in  a  cool  place. 

TOASTS,  SPANISH.  Roll  out  some 
almond  paste,  nearly  an  inch  thick,  cut  it 
into  pieces",  alwut  two  inches  square,  press 
them  down  with  a  square  piece  of  wood,  a 
little  smaller  than  the  paste,  which  will  leave 
the  edges  higher  than  the  rest;  bake  then, 
and  when  cold,  pour  in  any  prepared  cream 
you  please,  as  high  as  the  borders;  ice,  and 
color  them  with  a  salamander. 

TOMATA  SAUCE.  Bake  six  tomatas 
in  an  oven  till  quite  soft;  with  a  tea-spoon 
take  out  the  pulp,  add  salt,  cayenne,  and 
vinegar,  till  of  the  consistence  of  thick  cream. 

TOMATA  SOUP.  Wash,  scrape,  and 
cut  small  the  red  part  of  three  large  carroU, 
three  heads  of  celeiy,  four  large  onions,  and 
two  large  turnips,  put  them  into  a  saucepan, 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  half  a 
pound  of  lean  new  ham ;  let  them  stew  very 
gently  for  an  hour,  then  add  three  quarts  of 
brown  gravy  soup,  and  some  whole  black 
pepper,  with  eight  or  ten  ripe  tomatas  ;  let 
it  boil  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  pulp  it  through 
a  sieve  ;  serve  it  with  (Vied  bread  cut  in  dice. 

TOMATA  SAUCE,  FRENCH.  Cut 
ten  or  a  dozen  tuinalas  into  quarters,  and 
put  them  into  a  saucepan,  with  four  on- 
ions sliced,  a  little  parsley,  thy  mo,  one  clove, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butler;  set  the 
saucepan  on  the  fire,  stirring  occasionally  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour;  strain  the  sauce 
through  a  horse-hair  sie\e,  and  serve  with 
the  directed  articles. 

TOMATA  SAUCE,  ITALIAN.  Take 
five  or  six  onions,  slice,  anil  put  tliem  into 
a  saucepan,  with  a  little  thune,  bay-leaf, 
twelve  or  fifteen  lomatas,  a  bit  of  butter, 
salt,  half  a  do/en  alUpice,  a  little  India  saf- 
fron, and  a  glass  of  stock  ;  set  tliem  on  the 
fire,  taking  care  to  stir  it  freqnen  ly.  as  it  is 
apt  to  stick  ;  when  you  perceive  the  sauce  is 
tolerably  thick,  strain  it  like  a  p'.irte. 

TO  ATA  KETCHUP.  (1)  Take  t,  m -.- 
tas  when  fully  ripe,  bake  them  in  a  jar  till 
tender  strain  them,  and  rub  them  through  a 
sieve.  To  evei  v  |xnmd  of  juice,  add  a  pint 
of  Chili  vinegar,  an  ounce  of  shallots,  half  an 
oun.e  i. f  gailic,  both  sliced,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
white  pepper,  fin"!y  powdered;  l»'il  the 
whole  till  eveiy  i;'.:,edii-nl  is  soft,  rub  it 
again  through  the  >ieve.  To  every  pound 


TOM 


223 


TON 


add  the  juice  of  three  lemons;  boil  it  again 
to  tin.1  consistence  of  cream;  when  cold,  bot- 
tle it,  put  a  small  quantity  of  sweet  oil  on 
each,  tie  bladders  over,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry 
place. 

TOMATA  KETCHUP.  (2)  Gather  a 
peck  of  (oinatas,  pick  out  the  stems,  and 
wash  them ;  put  tliem  on  the  fire  without 
uutcr;  sprinkle  on  a  few  spoonfuls  of  salt  ; 
let  them  txiil  .-le.idily  an  hour,  stirring  them 
frequently  ;  .-train  them  through  a  colander 
und  then  throu<r|i  a  sieve  ;  put  the  liquid  on 
the  fire  with  half  a  pint  of  rhop|>cd  onions, 
eighth  of  an  ounce  of  mure  bloke  into  small 
pieces,  and  if  not  sufficiently  salt,  add  a  little 
more;  one  table-spoonful  of  whole  black 
pepper;  boil  all  together  until  just  enough 
to  fill  two  bottles;  cork  it  tight. 

[Tin-  seasoning  may  he  varied  to  suit  the 
taste.  Allspice  iu.-t.  ad  of  mact — common 
red  |x-pper  in.-tead  of  black  pepper,  and  less 
chopped  onion.] 

TOMATO  KETCHUP.  (3)  On,  Dil- 
lon skinned  tomatas,  four  table-sp 
Kilt,  tour  do.  black  pepper,  tuo  do.  allspice, 
eight  pods  red  pep|xjr,  ei^lit  table-s|>oons  of 
mustard  wed.  These  articles,  to  be  bruised 
tine  and  simmered  r-low  ly  in  a  pint  of  vinegar 
three  hours;  then  strained  through  a  hair 
sieve.  To  Ix-  stewed  down  to  half  a  gallon 
of  ketchup. 

TOMAT\S.  MKTHOD  OF  PRE- 
SERVING. (1)  A  sufficient  quantity  of  salt 
U  dissolved  in  spring  or  river  water  to  make- 
it  slroii'.;  enough  to  U-ar  an  eg;; ;  select  per- 
feclly  ripe  tomatas,  anil  place  them  well  and 
without  pres.-hr,'  them,  in  a  slo 
eartlien  |>ot,  uitli  a  ilee;i  |.!.ite  in  such  a 
manner  that  it  presses  U|x>n  the  fruit,  and  by 
ihi-  -  loin. it. is  ni'i\  lie  pr. 

more  than  a  year  without  attention.  Before- 
Cooking  them  they  should  lie  soaked  in  fresh 
water  for  >e\rral  hours. 

TOMVTAS.  .MKTHOD  OF  PRE- 
SERVING. (2)  Gather  them  carefully 
without  bruising;  |)ni  tliem  ia  a  stone  jar, 
and  |>our  ia  sirou^  brine,  to  the  tup — putting 
on  a  light  weight  to  keep  iheni  gently  pressed 
down  Ix-low  the  s'nfaee  of  the  bi  ine.  Soak 
them  in  fresh  water  and  cook  them  in  the 
usual  way,  wagoning  to  suit  tlie  taste,  as 
wlien  fresh  from  die  vine. 

TOMATA  MAKM  M.ADE.  Gather 
full-grown  lomatas  while  quite  green;  take. 
out  the  stems  anil  stew  them  till  soft;  rub 
them  lln.'inli  a  sieve;  put  I h«-  pulp  on  the 
fire,  teaaoitcd  highly  with  pepper,  .-alt  and 
powdered  .  :  lie,  and  slew 

all  together  till  thick.     It  keeps  well,  and  i> 


excellent  for  seasoning  gravies.  Besides  the 
numerous  modes  of  preparing  this  delicious 
vegetable  for  the  table,  it  may  be  stewed, 
after  being  peeled,  wilh  sugar,  like  cranljer- 
ries  and  gooseberries,  producing  a  tart  equal 
to  either  of  those  fruits.  Tomatas  make 
good  pickles,  pickled  green;  to  peel  them, 
pour  boiling  water  on  them,  when  the  skin 
will  come  off  easily. 

TONGUE.  (1)  "  A  tongue  which  has 
not  been  dried  will  require  very  little  soak- 
ing, but  if  dried,  it  should  lie  soaked  in 
water  for  three  or  four  hours;  then  put  it 
into  cold  water,  and  let  it  boil  gently  till 
tender. 

TONGUE.  (2)  A  tongue  is  so  hard, 
whether  prewired  by  drying  or  pickliii',',  that 
it  requires  much  more  cooking  than  a  ham; 
nothing  of  its  weight  takes  so  long  to  dress 
it  properly. 

A  tongue  that  has  lx«n  salted  and  dric-d 
should  IK;  put  to  soak  (if  it  is  old  :md  very 
hard,  24  hours  More  it  is  wanted)  in  plen- 
ty of  water;  a  urien  one  fresh  from  the  pic- 
kle  reqniies  M  liking  only  a  few  hours:  put 
your  tongue  into  plenty  of  cold  water;  let 
it  be  an  hour  gradually  warming;  and  give 
it  from  three  und -a  half  to  four  hours'  very 
slow  simmering,  according  to  the  size,  &c. 

Obs. — When  you  choose  a  tongue,  en- 
deavor to  learn  how  long  it  has  been  dried 
or  pickled,  pick  out  the  plumpest,  and  that 
which  has  the  smoothest  skin,  which  de- 
notes its  Ix'ing  young  and  tender. 

The  roots,  &c.  make  an  excellent  relish 
potted,  or  peas  soup. 

TONGUE,  TO  STEW.  Wash  it  very 
clean,  and  rub  it  well  with  common  salt  and 
a  little  salt|X'fre;  let  it  lie  tuo  or  three  days, 
and  then  boil  it  till  the  skin  will  pull  off. 
Put  it  into  a  saucepan,  with  part  of  the  li- 
qnor  it  has  l»-en  Boiled  in,  and  a  pint  of 
good  stock.  Season  with  black  and  Ja- 
maica pep|>er,  and  two  or  three  pounded 
i  Id  a  glass  of  white  wine  ami  a 
(abl.'-s|>oonfnl  of  mushroom  ketchup,  and 
one  of  lemon  pickle;  thicken  the  sauce  with 
butter  rolled  in  Hour,  and  pour  it  over  the 
tongue. 

TONGUE,     PICKLED,     GLAXI'P. 

Boil  a  large  tongue  till  it   be   ten.: 
and  gla/e  it.  an. I  serve,  it  with  mashed  tur- 
nips on  one  side,  and   mashed  carrots,  or 
carrots  and  spinach  on  the  other. 

TONGUE,  POTTED.     See  Ham. 

TUMilT.S.  TO  SALT.  Salt  two 
and  turn  them  every  day  f>r  four  or 
;  then  rub  them  with  two  ounces 


TR  I 


224 


TRI 


of  common  salt,  one  of  brown  sugar,  and  half 
an  ounce  of  saltpetre;  turn  them  daily,  and 
in  a  fortnight  they  may  IK;  used. 

The.  IK-SI  sort  of  vessel  for  salting  them 
in  is  an  earthen- ware  pan,  as  wide  at  top 
as  bottom,  so  that  the  tongues  may  lie  in  it 
long-ways. 

TRIFLE.  (1)  Add  to  a  pint  of  rich 
cream  a  tea-cupful  of  white  wine,  sweeten  it 
with  pounded  loaf  sugar,  whisk  it  well,  and 
as  the  froth  rises  lay  it  n|x>n  a  sieve  placed 
over  a  deep  dish ;  as  it  drains,  pour  the 
cream  into  the  pan  in  which  it  is  whisked 
till  all  is  done  ;  dip  some  sponge  biscuit,  rata- 
fia cakes,  or  Savoy  biscuit,  into  sweet  wine 
and  a  little  brandy;  pour  over  them  a  lich 
boiled  custard,  and  when  quite  cold,  lay  on 
the  whipt  cream,  piled  as  high  as  possible. 
Colored  comfits  may  be  strewed  over  the 
top. 

TRIFLE.  (2)  Mix  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  white  wine,  and  one  of  sugar,  with  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  thick  cream;  whisk  it, 
and  take  oft"  as  much  froth  as  will  heap  upon 
the  dish,  into  which  lay  some  pieces  of 
sponge  cake,  or  some  sponge  biscuit,  soaked 
with  sweet  wine,  and  covered  with  preserv- 
ed strawberries,  or  any  other  fruit;  pile  the 
froth  upon  this,  and  pour  the  remainder  of 
the  cream  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish;  gar- 
nish with  flowers. 

TRIFLE.  (3)  Cover  the  bottom  of 
the  dish  with  Naples  biscuits,  and  maca- 
roons, broke  in  halves,  wet  with  brandy  and 
white  wine,  poured  over  them ;  cover  them 
with  patches  of  raspberry  jam;  till  the  dish 
with  a  good  custard,  then  wiiip  up  a  sylla- 
bub, drain  the  froth  on  a  sieve;  put  it  on 
the  custard,  and  strew  comfits  over  all. 

TRIPE.  Take  care  to  have  fresh  tripo; 
cleanse  it  well  from  the  fat,  and  cut  ii  into 
l>ieces  about  two  inches  broad  and  four  long,; 
put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  cover  it  with 
milk  and  water,  and  let  it  boil  gently  till  it 
is  tender. 

If  the  tripe  has  been  prepared  a»  it  usual- 
ly is  at  the  tripe  shops,  it  will  be  enough  in 
about  an  hour,  (this  depends  upon  how  long 
it  has  been  previously  l>oiled  at  the  tripe 
shop);  if  entirely  undressed,  it  will  require 
two  or  three  hours,  according  to  the  age 
and  quality  of  it. 

Make  some  onion  sauce  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  you  do  for  rabbits,  or  boil  (slowly  by 
themselves)  some  Spanish  or  the  whitest 
common  onions  you  can  get ;  peel  tl>em  be- 
fore you  boil  them;  when  they  are  tender, 
which  a  middling-sized  onion  will  be  in 
about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  drain  them 
in  a  hair  oieve,  take  off  the  top  skins  till 


they  look  nice  and  white,  and  put  them 
with  the  tripe  into  a  tureen  or  soup-dish, 
and  take  off  the  fat  if  any  floats  on  the 
sill  lace. 

Obs. — Rashers  of  bacon,  or  fried  sau- 
sages are  a  very  good  accompaniment  to 
boiled  tripe,  cow-heels  or  calf's  feet,  see 
Kelly's  sauce  or  paisley  and  butter,  or  ea- 
per  sauce,  with  a  little  \inegar  and  mus- 
tard added  to  them,  or  salad  mixture. 

Tripe  holds  the  same  rank  among  solids, 
that  water  gruel  does  among  soups,  and  the 
former  is  desirable  at  dinner,  when  the  lat- 
ter is  welcome  at  supper. 

TRIPE,  TO  FRY.  Cut  it  into  bit* 
three  or  four  inches  square;  make  a  batter 
thicker  than  fir  pancakes,  of  three  eggs 
lieaten  up  with  tlour  and  milk,  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg;  dip  in  the  tripe,  and 
fry  it  in  butter,  or  fresh  dripping,  of  a  light 
brown  color.  Swerve  it  garnished  with  pars- 
Icy.  Sauce;  —  melted  butter  with  lemon 
pickle  in  it. 

TRIPE  PIE.  Lay  into  the  bottom  of 
a  di.-h  some  thinly-sliced  cold  or  raw  ham, 
then  put  in  a  layer  of  tripe  with  the  jelly 
adhering  to  it,  season  with  [K'pper  and  salt, 
and  add  a  bit  of  butler;  fill  the  dish  in  this 
manner,  and  put  in  a  few  table-spoonfuls 
of  brown  stork;  cover  the  dish  with  puff 
paste.  A  beefsteak  may  be  substituted  for 
the  ham,  laid  into  the  bottom,  and  the  dish 
filled  up  with  tripe. 

TRIPE,  TO  BOIL.  Clean  it  extreme- 
ly well,  and  take  off  the  fat;  let  it  lie  a 
night  in  salt-and-water,  again  wash  it  well, 
and  let  it  lie  in  milk-and-water  for  the  same 
length  of  time;  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces, 
roll  and  tie  them  with  thread ;  put  them, 
with  a  clean-washed  marrow-tone,  into  a 
linen  Ixtg;  tie  it  closely,  and  put  it  into  a 
stewpan  lhat  has  a  cover  to  tit  quite  close- 
ly, fill  it  up  with  water,  and  let  it  boil 
"etitly  for  six  hours.  Take  the  tripe  out 
•  if  the  bag,  put  it  into  a  jar,  and  pour  over 
it  the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled.  When 
In  I*'  diesseii.  boil  some  whole  small  onions 
in  a  part  of  the  liquor,  add  a  little  salt,  tlu-n 
put  in  tin-  lri|M'  and  beat  it  thoromiliK. 

Or  it  may  be  fried  in  butter  fricasseed,  or 
stewed  in  a  brown  sauce. 

Instead  of  being  boiled  in  a  ba;j,  the  tripe 
may  be  put,  with  some  salt  and  whole  pep- 
per, into  a  stone-ware  jar,  which  must  have 
a  piece  of  linen  tied  over  it,  and  a  plate  laid 
upon  the  top.  The  pot  should  always  be 
kept  full  of  boiling  water,  taking  care  that 
it  do  not  boil  into  the  jar. 

TRIPE,  TO  ROAST.  Cut  the  tripe 
into  two  oblong  pieces,  make  a  forcemeat 


TRO 


225 


TUN 


of  bread  cruml*  ami  chopped  paisley,  sea- 
soned with  [lepper  ami  will;  hind  it  with 
tin- yolks  of  t\\o  i>a^>;  spread  it  ii|x>u  the 
fat  side  of  the  tripe,  and  lay  on  tin-  other 
fill  fide;  then  roll  it  very  tightly,  and  lie  it 
with  packthread.  Roast,  and  !>astc  it  with 
iMitter:  il  will  take  one  hour,  or  one  hour 
and  a  hall".  Serve  it  with  melted  butter, 
into  which  put  a  table-spoonful  of  ketchup 
and  one  of  lemon  pickle. 

TRIPE,  HREADED.  Cut  your  tripe 
into  small  square  pieces,  and  give  them  a 
few  turns  in  some  butter,  with  parsley^  wit, 
and  pepper;  roll  each  l)it  in  grated  bread, 
and  broil  them  slowly.  When  done,  serve 
them  with  slices  of  lemon. 

TROUT.  This  fish  is  held  in  great 
estimation,  it  is  a  fiesli  water  fish,  and 
when  food,  of  a  tlesh  color,  and  the  spots 
upon  it  are  very  bright  ;  (lie  female  is  con- 
sidered the  best,  and  is  known  by  the  head 
lieing  smaller,  and  the  body  being  deeper 
than  that  of  the  male. 

TROUT,    POTTED.      Mix   together 

the    following    quantity    of   finely-powdered 

spices: — On< nee  of  cloves,  half  an  ounce 

of  Jamaica  |x>pper,  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
black  pep[>er,  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cay- 
enne, two  nutmegs,  a  litlle  mare,  and  two 
tea-npoonfnls  of  ijinu'er;  add  the  weight  of 
the  spices,  and  half  as  much  again  of  salt, 
and  mix  all  thoroughly.  <'le:m  the  tish,and 
cut  off  the  lie;»d-,  tin-:,  and  tails;  put  a  t<  a- 
f|i»ouful  of  the  mixed  spices  into  each  fish, 
and  lay  them  into  a  deep  earthen  jar,  with 
the  backs  d'.wu  wards;  co\er  them  with 
elaritied  Initter,  tie  a  paper  over  the  mouth 
of  tin;  j«r,  and  bake  them  .-lowly  for  eiylit 
h»nis.  When  the  back  bone  is  tender,  the 
lish  arc  done  enou-jh.  Take  them  out  of 
the  jar,  and  (Hit  them  into  a  milkpan  with 
the  backs  upwards;  cover  them  with  a 
Ix.ard,  and  place  upon  it  a  heavy  weight. 
When  |XTl'eclK  cold,  remove  the  fish  into 
frcr-h  jars,  smooth  them  with  a  knife,  and 
cover  them  with  clarified  butter. 

TKOI    I.  TO   COLLAR.     Wash  them 

.  split  them  down  the  back  bone,  and 

dry  them  well  in  a  cloth;    season  them   well 

with  finely-|)oiini!ed  black   pepper,  salt,  and 

in. ire;    roll   them   tight,   and    lay   them 

into  a  dish;   |>our  over  an  equal  quantity  of 

ir  and   I  HIT,  with   two  or    three    liay- 

leaves,  and  some    whole  lilaek   pepju-r ;    tie 

over  ill'-    lish   i  -In -ei  of  buttered  paper,  and 

Lake  them  an  hour. 

TROUT,  TO  P.ROIL.  Cut  off  the  tins, 
and  CHI  the  fish  down  the  baek,  <  I  >sc  to  (In- 
bone,  ami  split  the  head  in  tvv>.  Another 


way  is,  after  they  have  been  rut  open,  to 
rub  a  little  salt  over  them;  let  them  lie  three 
or  four  hours,  and  then  hang  them  up  in  the 
kitchen.  They  will  be  ready  to  broil  the 

next  morning  for  breakfast. 

TROUT,  TO  BOIL.  Clean  and  giit 
them  ;  make  the  water  as  salt  as  for  lx>il- 
ing  salmon  in,  and  when  it  boils  put  in  the 
trout,  and  let  them  boil  fast  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes,  according  to  their  size. 
Sauce; — melted  Itutter. 

TROUT,  TO  FRY.  Cut  off  the  fins, 
clean  and  gut  them;  dust  them  wilh  flour, 
and  dip  diem  into  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten ; 
strew  grated  bread  crumbs  over,  and  fry  them 
in  fresh  dripping;  lay  them  upon  the  back 
of  a  sieve  before  the  fire  to  drain.  Sauce; 
— melted  butter,  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
ketchup,  and  one  of  lemon  pickle  in  it. 
When  they  are  email,  roll  them  in  oatmeal 
Ix'fore  they  are  fried. 

TRUFFLFS.  The  truffle,  like  the  mush- 
room, is  a  species  of  fungus  common  in 
France  and  Italy;  it  generally  grows  about 
eight  or  ten  inches  lielovv  the  surface  of  the 
ground ;  as  it  imparts  a  most  delicious  flavor, 
it  is  much  used  in  cookery.  lieing  dug  out 
of  the  earth,  it  requires  a  great  deal  of  wash- 
ing and  brushing,  before  it  can  be  applied  to 
culinary  purposes;  when  washed,  the  water 
should  l>e  warm,  and  changed  frequency.  Tt 
lo.-es  much  of  its  flavor  when  dried. 

TRUFFLE  SAUCE.  Mince  two  or 
three  truffles  very  small,  and  toss  them  up 
!;,-|illy,  in  either  oil  or  butter,  according  to 
%onr  taste;  then  put  to  them  four  or  five  la- 
dlefuls  of  veloute  and  a  s|xmufiil  of  con- 
sommt;  let  it  boil  for  alxiut  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  over  a  gentle  fire,  skim  off  all 
the  fat;  keep  ymr  sauce  hot  in  the  bain- 
marie. 

TRUFFLES  TOURTE.  Take  two 
[xiunds  of  fine  truffles,  wash  and  pick  them; 
put  them  into  a  .-tew  pan,  with  six  thin  slice* 
of  ham,  a  very  little  carrot,  a  sliced  onion, 
i  Lav, -leaf,  sweet  herbs  in  powder,  salt,  am( 
Champagne;  lay  rashers  of  bacon  over  the 
whole,  and  stew  them  to  nearly  a  jelly. 
When  cold,  put  the  truffles  into  a  crust  wilh 
all  ihe  sea-oiiing;  bake  the  towtt ,and  serve 
as  usual. 

TUNRRinC.E    CAKES.       Rub  two. 

ounces  of  butler  into  half  a  |x>uud  of  dried 
flour;  add  a  few  caraway  seeds,  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  pminded  loaf  sugar;  mix 
it  to  a  -ii!)  paste  with  a  little  water,  toll  it 
out  v,i\  thin,  cut  it  into  mm  id  cakes  with 
a  •,•!. is- Li  the  top  of  a  diedging  box,  prick 


TU  R 


226 


TUR 


them    witli   a   fork,   and  bake   them  upon 
floured  ling. 

TUNBRIDGE  PUFFS.  Put  into  a 
nicely-tinned  saucepan  a  pint  of  milk,  and 
when  it  b,>ils,  stir  in  as  much  flour  us  will 
make  it  a  thick  batter;  add  lliree  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  two  or  three  drops  of  oil 
of  cinnamon,  or  any  other  seasoning;  dust 
a  large  tlat  plate  with  (lour,  with  a  spoon 
throw  on  it  the  batter,  in  the  form  of  balls 
or  fritters,  and  drop  them  into  boiling  cla- 
rified dripping  or  lard.  Serve  them  with 
pounded  loaf  sugar  strewed  over. 

The  batter  may  be  made  into  a  pudding, 
adding  with  the  eggs  an  ounce  of  sail  but- 
ter. Boil  and  serve  it  with  a  sweet  sauce. 

TURBOT.  Turbot,  when  good,  should 
be  thick  and  full,'  and  the  belly  of  a  yellow- 
ish while  or  cream  color. 

TURBOT,  BAKED.  Wash  your  fish 
in  several  waters,  dry  it  well,  and  soak  it 
in  melted  butter,  with  sweet  herbs,  parsley, 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg;  in  half  an  hour 
put  the  whole  into  a  baking  dish,  envelope 
it  completely  in  bread  crumbs,  and  bake  it. 

TURBOT,  BREADED.  Prepare  a 
small  turbot  as  usual,  slit  it  across  the  back, 
and  soak  it  for  an  hour  in  melted  butter, 
or  lemon-juice,  with  parsley,  sweet  herbs, 
salt,  and  pepper.  Cover  the  fish  with 
bread  crumbs,  and  broil  it;  when  done, 
squeeze  lemon,  or  Seville  orange-juice  over 
it,  and  serve. 

TURBOT,  STUFFED  AND  BAKED. 
Your  turbot  being  properly  cleansed,  turn 
over  the  skin  of  the  under  side,  without  cut- 
ting it  off;  make  a  farce,  with  some  butter, 
parsley,  scallions,  morels,  sweet  herbs,  all 
shred,  and  united  together,  with  yolks  of 
eggs,  and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt; 
spread  this  all  over  the  under  part  of  the 
fish,  cover  it  with  the  skin,  and  sew  it  up. 
Dissolve  some  butter  in  a  saucepan;  add  to 
it  when  melted,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  sweet 
herbs  shred,  salt,  and  pepper;  rub  the  fish 
all  over  with  this,  then  bread,  and  bake  it.' 

TURBOT,  TO  BOIL.  (1)  This  excellent 
fish  is  in  season  the  greatest  part  of  the  sum- 
mer; when  good,  it  is  at  once  firm  and  ten- 
der, and  abounds  with  rich  gelatinous  nu- 
trimenl. 

Being  drawn,  and  washed  clean,  if  it  be 
quite  fresh,  by  rubbing  it  lightly  with  salt, 
and  keeping  it  in  a  cold  place,  you  may  in 
moderate  weather  preserve  it  for  a  couple 
of  days. 

An  hour  or  two  before  you  dress  it,  soak 
it  in  spring  water  with  some  salt  in  it,  then 


score  the  skin  across  the  thickest  part  of 
the  back,  to  prevent  its  breaking  on  the 
breast,  which  will  happen  from  the  fish 
swelling,  and  cracking  the  skin,  if  thin  pre- 
caution l>e  not  used.  Put  a  large  handful 
of  salt  into  a  fish-kettle  with  cold  water, 
lay  your  fish  on  a  fish-strainer,  put  it  in, 
and  when  it  is  coming  to  a  boil,  skim  it 
well ;  then  set  the  kettle  on  the  side  of  the 
fire,  to  boil  as  gently  as  possible  for  about 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  (if  it  boils  fast, 
the  fish  will  break  to  pieces);  supposing  it 
a  middling-sized  turbot,  and  to  weigh  eight 
or  nine  pounds. 

Rub  a  little  of  the  inside  red  coral  spawn 
of  the  lobster  through  a  hair  sieve,  with- 
out butter;  and  when  the  turbot  is  dished, 
sprinkle  the  spawn  over  it.  Garnish  the 
dish  with  sprigs  of  curled  parsley,  sliced 
lemon,  and  finely-scraped  horseradish. 

If  you  like  to  send  it  to  table  in  full  dress, 
surround  it  with  nicely-fried  smelts,  gudg- 
eons are  often  used  for  this  purpose,  and  may 
l>e  bought  very  cheap  when  smelts  are  very 
dear;  lay  the  largest  opposite  the  broadest 
part  of  the  turbot,  so  that  they  may  form  a 
well-proportioned  fringe  for  it;  or  oysters; 
or  cut  a  sole  in  strips,  crossways,  about  the 
size  of  a  smelt ;  fry  them  and  lay  them 
round.  Send  up  lobster  sauce,  two  boats 
of  it,  if  it  is  for  a  large  party. 

Obs. — The  thickest  part  is  the  favorite; 
and  the  carver  of  this  fish  must  remember 
to  ask  his  friends  if  they  are  fin-fanciers. 
It  will  save  a  troublesome  job  to  the  carver 
if  the  cook,  when  the  fish  is  boiled,  cuts  the 
spine  bone  across  the  middle. 

TURBOT,  TO  BOIL.  (2)  Put  into 
the  turbot  kettle,  with  the  water,  two  large 
handfuls  of  salt,  and  a  tea-cupful  of  vinegar; 
when  it  boils  very  fast,  take  off  the  scum; 
put  in  the  turbot,  and  when  it  boils  again 
keep  it  boiling  fast  till  the  turbot  rises  from 
the  drainer;  when  it  is  sufficiently  done, 
dish  and  garnish  it  with  a  fringe  of  curled 
parsley  and  cut  lemon.  Sauces; — lobster 
and  melted  butter. 

Cold  boiled  turbct  eats  well  with  salad 
sauce. 

Turbot  is  generally  considered  best  per- 
fectly fresh ;  but  some  people  prefer  it  kept 
for  a  few  days,  hung  up  by  the  toil  in  a 
cool  place. 

TURBOT,  GRILLED.  Split  the  fish 
down  the  back,  and  soak  it  for  sometime, 
with  melted  butter,  parsley,  sweet  herbs, 
salt,  and  pepper.  Bread  the  turbot  well, 
broil,  and  serve  it  with  lemon,  or  Seville 
orange-juice. 

TURBOT,  WITH  WHITE  SAUCE. 

Put  a  sliced  onion,  some  thyme,  basil,  and 


TUR 


227 


TUR 


sweet  herbs  into  a  stew-pan,  place  a  small 
turbot  on  these,  strew  similar  heibs,  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  leek,  cut  in  purrs  mer  it ; 
cover  the  li.-h  wild  c<iual  quantities  of  vine- 
gar, and  wliilc  wine;  let  it  lx>il  over  a, 
moderate  tiie  until  sufficiently  done;  in  the 
meantime,  melt  a  pound  of  butter,  a. Id  ID  it 
a  couple  of  boned  anchovies,  two  s|>ooiifuls 
of  capers,  >liie  1  small,  two  or  three  leeks, 
Bait,  pepper,  nutmeg,  a  little  vinegar,  water, 
and  a  spi  inUlinj  of  tlotir;  in. ike  all  these 
nha  hot,  Stirring  Cmtantl)  till  clone;  then 
dish  the  lurbot,  |>onr  tlie  sauce  over  it,  and 
serve. 

TURKEY,  BOILED.     Make  a  stuffing 

of  bread,  herli..  -alt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lem- 
on-peel, a  few  oysters,  or  an  anchovy,  a  bit 
of  butter,  some  suet,  and  an  e^;  put  this 
into  the  crop,  fasten  up  the  skin,  and  boil 
the  turkey  in  a  floured  cloth  to  make  it  very- 
while.  lla\e  ready  some  oyster  sauce 
made  rich  with  butler,  a  little  cream,  and  a 
spoonful  of  soy,  and  serve  oxer  the  turkey, 
or  you  may  serve  over  it  a  liver  and  lemon 
sauce. 

TURKKV,  Tl  RKEY  POULTS,  AND 
OTHF.K  I'ori.iRY.  A  fowl  and  a  turkey- 
require  the  same  management  at  the  fire, 
only  the  latter  will  take  longer  time. 

Many  a  Christina.*  dinner  has  Ixjen  spoil- 
ed by  the  turkey  having  been  hung  up  in  a 
cold  larder,  and  Ixicomini;  thoroughly  fro- 
zen; Jack  Front  has  ruined  tlie  reputation 
of  many  a  tin  key  i" 

Ix't  them  U-  carefully  picked,  &c.  and 
break  tin-  bie.i.-t  lione  (to  make  them  look 
plump),  twist  up  a  sherl  of  clean  writing 
paper,  light  it,  and  thoroughly  .-in.;,  the 
turkey  all  over,  turning  it  about  over  tlie 
flame. 

Turkeys,  fowls,  and  capons  have  a  much 
better  apix-arancc,  if,  instead  of  trussing 
them  with  the  legs  close  together,  and  the 
feet  cut  off,  the  legs  are  extended  on  each 
Side  of  the  bird,  and  tint  toes  only  cut  olT, 
with  a  -I.ewer  thrutigli  each  foot,  to  keep 

I    pro|XT    di- 

Be  r.i.i  -fill,  when  yon  draw  ii,  to  preserve 
the  liie.  .  an  1  -i  <••  'H'-.iU  ill.-  _;;ill-l>ag,  as 
no  wa-hing  will  takeoff  ihi:  bitdr  ta.-le  it 
gives,  where  it  once  tone  i 

l'iep..i  ii  .  In  i~k  lire  for  it. 

M.ik"  stult'ing;  istufT  it  under  the  breast, 
where  I  •  tken  out,  anrl  m..ke 

some  ini  Uiil  or  fry  them,  ,md 

lay  them  i»nnl  the  m-.i:  tln-\  .<•,-  hands  to 
help,  and  ion  can  ih.  •  of  the 

inside  •  uitli  the  cold  turkey, 

'ii  lo  enrii  h  a  hash. 


TURKIC    I.N   IHIT.r..      TAean  old 
turkey,  trues  it  in  lite  usual  way  ;  roll  tome 


large  lardons  in  a  mixture  of  salt,  pepper, 
four  spires,  and  sweet  iK-ibs,  and  then  lard 
tlie  turkey  with  them;  lay  slices  of  bacon 
in  a  hraising-pan,  put  tlie  turkey  on  them, 
with  two  small  knuckles  of  veal,  tlie  feet  of 
the  bird,  four  carrots,  six  onions,  three 
cloies,  tuo  liiy-le.ives,  thyme,  a  bunch  of 
:'id  young  onions;  cover  the  whole 
with  bacon  and  a  piece  of  buttered  paper; 
dilute  it  with  four  ladleful.s  of  stock  (or 
more  if  the  turkey  be  very  large),  put  in  a 
little  salt,  and  set  the  pan  on  the  lire  to  boil 
slowly  for  three  hours  and  a  half;  then  take 
it  off,  but  do  not  take  the  bird  out  for  at 
least  half  an  hour.  Strain  off  the  liquor, 
and  then  reduce  it  to  a  fourth,  or  more  if 
•cry  thin;  break  an  egg  into  another  sauce- 
pan, Ix-at  it  up  well,  and  then  |«Mir  the  li- 
quor on  it,  whisk  them  well  together,  and 
if  it  wants  flavor,  add  a  few  sweet  herbs, 
parsley  leaves,  and  a  young  onion  or  two; 
put  it  on  the  I'm-,  stirring  it  violentlv  until 
ready  to  boil;  as  soon  as  it  has  Killed  up 
or  twice;  set  it  by  Uie  side  of  a  stove, 
(Hit  (ire  on  the  top  of  the  saucepan,  and  let 
it  simmer  half  an  hour;  then  strain  it  care- 
fully through  a  fine  cloth,  and  let  it  cool  to 
serve  it  with  the  turkey. 

TURKEY,  HASHED.   (1)   Cut  up  the 

remains  of  a  roasted  turkey,  put  it  into  a 
siewpan,  with  a  glass  of  white  wine,  chop- 
|H'd  parsley,  shallots,  mushrooms,  truffles, 
salt  and  pepper,  two  spoonfuls  of  cullis,  and 
a  little  stock  ;  lx>il  half  an  hour,  and  reduce 
I  to  a  thick  sauce;  when  ready,  add  a  pound 
of  anchovi,  and  a  squeeze  of  lemon ;  skim 
off  all  the  fat  from  the  sauce,  and  serve  all 
togetlier. 

TURKEY,  HASHED.  (2)  Stir  a 
piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour  into  some 
cream,  and  a  little  veal  gravy,  till  it  boils 
up ;  mince  some  cold  roasted  or  boiled 
turkey,  but  not  tew  small;  put  it  into  the 
sauce,  add  grated  lemon-peel,  while  pepper, 
pounded  mace,  a  little  mushroom  ketchup  or 
mushroom  powder ;  simmer  it  up,  and  serve. 
Oysters  m^v  Ixj  added. 

TURKEY,  ROASTED.      It  may  be 

either  stuffed  with  sausage  meat,  or  stuffing 
the  Rime  as  for  fillet  of  veal.  As  this  makes 
a  large  addition  to  the  si/.e  of  the  bird,  lake 
care  that  the  heat  of  the  fire  is  constantly  to 
that  pait,  as  it  frequently  hapfx-ns  that  the 
breast  is  not  sufficiently  done.  A  strip  of 
paper  should  !»•  put  on  the  bone  t 
Ha  scorching,  while  the  other  parts  are 
roaming,  llaste  well, and  froth  it  up 
with  i;i .111  in  the  dis'i,  and  bread  sauce  in  a 
-.in  e  mi.  en.  A  few  bread  crimilM,  and  a 
IxMteti  -  .  ;  -.1  '.ild  be  added  to  tlie  stuffing 
of  Kiiifiage  meat. 


TDK 


228 


TUR 


TURKEY,  STUFFED  WITH  SAU- 
SAGES AND  CHESTNUTS.  Roast 
what  quantity  «f  chestnuts  you  think  neces- 
sary, (jeel  thorn,  and  pound  a  part  of  them 
to  make  a  farce,  with  the  liver,  chopped 
parsley,  shallots,  a  little  salt  and  pe|  |,er,  a 
bit  of  (miter,  and  the  yolks  of  three  raw 
eggs,  put  this  farce  into  the  crop,  and  stmT 
the  body  with  the  whole  chestnuts,  and  small 
nausages,  first  fried  in  butter  till  about  half 
done  ;  cover  the  turkey  wild  slices  ot  bacon, 
and  put  paper  over  that,  then  roast  it,  and 
serve  with  a  chestnut  cnllis. 

TURNIPS,  TO  DRESS  YOUNG 
WHITE.  Wash,  peel,  and  boil  them  till 
tender  in  water  with  a  little  salt;  serve  them 
with  melted  butter  poured  over  them.  Or, 
They  may  be  stewed  in  a  pint  of  milk  thick- 
ened with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  served 
with  the  sauce. 

TURNIPS.  Peel  off  half  an  inch  of  the 
stringy  outside.  FuH-growo  turnips  will 
take  about  an  hour  and  a  half  gentle  boiling; 
if  you  slice  them,  which  m  >sl  people  do,  they 
will  be  done  sooner;  try  them  with  a  fork; 
when  tender,  lake  them  up,  and  lay  them  on 
a  sieve  till  the  waler  is  thoroughly  drained 
from  them.  Send  them  up  whole;  do  not 
(lice  them. 

TURNIPS,  TO  BOIL  YEM.OW  OR 
LARGE  WHITK.  Wash,  pare,  and  throw 
them  into  cold  water;  put  them  on  in  boiling 
water  with  a  little  sill,  and  boil  them  from 
two  hours  to  Iwo  and  a  half,  drain  them  in 
a  cullender,  pul  them  into  a  saucepan,  and 
mixing  in  a  bit  of  butter,  with  a  beater  mash 
them  very  smoothly,  add  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
mix  it  well  with  the  turnips,  and  make  them 
quite  hot  before  serving.  If  they  are  to  Ixj 
served  plain,  dish  them  us  .soon  as  the  water 
is  drained  off. 

TURN7 1 P  TOPS,  Are  the  shoots  which 
grow  out  (in  the  spring)  of  the  old  turnip 
roots.  Put  them  into  cold  w^.er  an  hour 
before  they  are  to  be  dressed;  the  more  wa- 
ter they  are  boiled  in,  the  l>ctter  they  will 
look;  if  boiled  in  a  small  quantity  of  water 
they  will  taste  bitter:  when  the  water  boils, 
put  in  a  small  handful  of  salt,  and  then  your 
vegetables;  if  fresh  and  young,  they  will  Ix- 
done  in  about  twenty  minutes;  drain  them 
on  the  back  of  a  sieve. 

TURTLE  SOUP.  (1)  To  dress  a 
Turtle  weighing  one  hundred  and  twenty 
pounds.  Having  cut  off  the  head  close  to 
the  shell,  hang  up  the  turtle  till  the  next 
day,  then  open  it,  bearing  the  knife  heavi- 
ly on  the  back  of  the  animal  in  cutting  it 


off  all  round  ;  turn  it  on  its  end,  that  all 
the  blood  anil  water  may  run  out,  then  cut 
the  llesh  off  air, n^  the  spine,  sloping  the  knife 
towards  the  bones  so  as  to  avoid  touching 
the  gall,  and  having  also  cut  the  flesh  from 
the  leys  and  other  meinljcrs,  wash  the  whole 
well  and  drain  it.  A  large  \e.-sel  of  boil- 
ing water  Ix-ing  ready  on  the  fire,  put  in 
the  breast  shell,  and  when  the  flutes  will 
separate  easily  take  ihem  out  of  the  waler; 
Iwil  the  back  and  bellv  in  water  till  the  softer 
parts  can  \>e  taken  off  easily  ;  (nit  before  they 
are  sufficiently  done,  as  they  are  to  be  again 
boiled  in  the  sauce,  lay  them  to  cool  singly 
in  earthen  vessels  that  they  may  not  stick 
together,  let  the  bones  continue  to  stew  for 
some  time,  as  the  lii|uor  must  be  used  for 
moistening  the  since*. 

All  the  (If-sh  cut  from  the  body,  the  four 
legs  and  head  must  be  stewed  in  the  following 
manner.  Lay  a  few  slices  of  ham  on  the 
lx>ttom  of  a  large  stewpan,  and  over  the  ham 
two  or  three  knuckles  of  veal,  then  above  the 
veal,  the  inside  flesh  of  the  turtle,  and  that 
of  the  members  over  the  whole,  adding  a 
large  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  such  as 'Sweet 
basil,  sweet  marjoram,  lemon  tin  me,  a  hand- 
ful of  parsley,  and  green  onions,  and  a  large 
onion  stuck  with  six  cloves,  '('hen  partly 
moisten  it  with  the  water  in  which  the  sliell 
is  boiling,  and  when  it  has  stewed  some 
time,  moisten  it  again  with  the  liquor  in 
which  the  back  and  belly  have  been  lx>iled. 
When  ihe  legs  are  tender,  take  them  out, 
drain,  and  put  them  aside  to  Ix'  afterwards 
added  tn  the  sauce;  and  when  the  flesh  is 
completely  done,  drain  it  through  a  silk  sieve, 
and  mix  with  the  . ancc  Nimi-  very  thin  white 
roux;  then  cut  all  the  softer  parts,  now 
sufficiently  cold,  into  pieces  about  an  inch 
square,  add  them  to  the  sauce,  and  let  them 
simmer  gently  till  they  can  beca.-ily  pierced; 
skim  it  well. 

Next  chop  a  small  quantity  of  herbs,  and 
boil  them  with  a  little  sugar  in  lour  Ixmle.-i 
of  Madeira  till  reduced  to  two,  then  rub  it 
through  a  tammy,  mix  it  with  the  turtle 
sauce,  and  let  it  boil  for  a  short  lime.  .Make 
some  forcemeat  balls  as  follows: — Cut  off 
ulxmt  a  pound  of  meat  from  the  fleshy  part 
of  a  leg  of  veal  free  from  sinews  or  flu,  soak 
in  milk  about  the  same  quantity  of  crumbs 
of  bread;  when  quite  soft,  squeeze  and  put 
it  into  a  mortar,  together  with  the  veal,  a 
small  quantity  of  calf's  udder,  a  little  butter, 
the  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs,  a  little 
cayenne,  salt  and  spices;  pound  the  whole 
very  finely,  then  thicken  the  mixture  with 
two  whole  eggs  and  the  yolk  of  a  third,  ihrutw 
a  bit  into  boiling  water,  and  if  not  sufficiently 
firm,  add  the  yolk  of  another  egg,  and  for 
variety  some  chopped  parsley  may  Ix:  mixed 
with  half  of  the  forcemeat.  Let  the  whole 
cool  so  that  it  may  be  formed  into  bulls  about 


TU  R 


229 


VEAL 


the  size  of  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  poach  them  in 

boiling  water,  and  add  them  to  the  turtle. 
Before  serving,  mix  a  little  cayenne  with 
the  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons,  .mil  ailil  it 
to  the  soup.  It  i>  nencrtlly  preh-rahle  to 
prepare  the  soup  (he  day  before  it  is  required 
for  use,  and  it  will  be  Ijesl  henle  I  in  a  water 
bath,  or  Hat  vessel  containing  water,  which 
is  always  kept  very  hot,  l.nt  not  allowed  to 
boil.  By  the  same  method,  sauces,  stews, 
and  olher  made  dishes  may  ta  kept  fat. 

When  the  fins  cf  the  turtle  are  to  IK- served 
as  it  side  dish,  they  mast  lx>  lirst  parboiled, 
then  skinned,  and  stewed  in  a  little  turtle 
sauce,  with  some  Port  wine,  and 
with  cayenne,  salt,  and  a  little  lemon-juice, 
and  thickened  with  butter  and  Hour. 

Frirandeaux  and  BlanqueUM  may  also  be 
made  of  the  flesh  of  (he  turtle,  in  the  same 
way  as  those  of  veal. 

TURTLE  SOUP.     (2)  The  day  before 

yon  dress  a  turtle,  chop  the  herb--,  au;l  make 
the  forcemeat ;  then,  on  the  preceding  eve- 
ning, siis|»eiid  the  turtle  by  the  (wo  hind  fins 
will)  a  eord ;  anil  put  one  round  the  neck, 
with  a  heavy  weight  attached  to  it  to  draw 
out  the  neck,  that  the  liead  may  IK-  cut  oft' 
with  more  ease;  lei  the  turtle  hang  all  ni^ht, 
in  whirl)  time  the  blood  u  ill  !H>  well  drained 
from  the  liody.  Then,  early  ill  (he  morning, 
hauni:  vnnr  M.IM-,  and  plenty  of  hot  water 
in  readiness,  take  the  turtle,  lay  it  on  the 
table  on  its  back,  and  with  a  strong  |x>iuicd 
knife  cut  all  round  the  under  shell,  (which  is 
the  callipee) ;  there  are  joints  at  earl)  end, 
which  must  lie  carefully  found,  gently  scpi- 
mting  it  from  the  ralli|>ash  (which  is  the 
upper  shell);  IN?  careful  (hat  in  culling  out 
the  gut  yon  do  not  break  (he  gall.  When 
the  calli|XT.  and  I  he  callipa.-h  are  |x-if'-rtly 
separated,  lake  out  (hat  part  of  the  ;nit  that 
leads  In. m  tin-  throat;  that,  with  the  three 
hearts,  put  into  a  liasiu  of  water  by  them- 
selves; die  olher  interior  |urt  put  away. 
1'ake  (he  callipee,  and  cut  off  the  meat 
which  adlieres  to  it  in  tour  <|iiarters,  laying 
it  on  a  clean  dish.  Take  twenty  pmnufs  of 
veal,  chop  it  up,  and  set  it  in  a  large  pot,  as 
directed  for  ttpagnole,  (Hitting  in  tlie  flesh 
of  (lie  tin  lie  al  ihe  same  lime,  with  all  kinds 
of  turtle  licrljs,  carrots,  onions, one  pound  and 
a  half  of  lean  ham,  pepper  corns,  gait,  a  little 
spire,  and  two  Iwy  leaven,  leaving  it  to  stew 
till  it  l.tkes  the  color  of  etpagnolt;  put  tlie 
fins  (the  skin  being  scalded  off)  and  IK  -at  is  m. 
half  an  hour  l»-|im-  yon  (ill  it,  with  half  wa- 
ter, and  Ir.ilf  href  t.toek  ;  then  carefully  skim 
it;  put  in  a  bunch  of  (Ktrsley,  and  let  it  boil 
gently,  like  consomme.  While  die  lurlk-  is 
slewmi;,  raiethllv  x-al  I  (he  li'-ad,  (he  calli- 
(t  of  (he  callipaxh,  at- 

tcnlm-ly    obsen  ini;   to   take   oil    llie   -ni.dlr.-t 
particle  of  skin  I  hat  may  remain  ;    put  l!iem 
20 


with  the  gut  into  a  large  pot  of  water  to  boil 
till  tender;  when  so,  take  them  out,  and  nut 
tiiem  in  .squares,  putting  them  in  a  basin  by 
(hi-iiisi-Ues  nil  wanted  for  the  soup.  The 
next  thing  is  the  thickening  of  the  soup, 
which  must  IK-  prepared  in  the  same  manner 
as  sauce  lournee.  The  turtle  being  well 
done,  takeout  the  fins  and  hearts,  and  lay  then) 
on  a  dish  ;  tin-  whole  of  the  li(|iior  must  pasH 
through  a  sie\e  into  a  large  pan;  then,  with 
a  ladle,  take  off  all  the  fat,  put  it  into  a  ba- 
sin, then  mix  in  the  turtle  liquor  (a  small 
i|uan(i(y  al  a  lime)  with  the  thickening  made 
the  same  as  sauce  tournee;  but  it  does  not 
require  to,  neither  must  it  be,  one  twentieth 
part  BO  thick ;  set  it  over  a  brisk  fire,  and 
continue  stirring  till  it  boils;  when  it  ha* 
boiled  two  hours,  being  skimmed  all  the 
while,  squeeze  it  through  the  tammy  into 
another  large  stewpan.  put  it  on  the  fire,  and 
stir  it  as  before,  till  it  boils;  when  it  haff 
boiled  gently  for  one  hour,  put  in  tlie  calli- 
pee and  callipash,  with  the  gut,  hearts,  and 
some  of  the  best  of  the  meal  and  head,  all 
cut  in  squares,  with  (he  forcemeat  balls  and 
herbs,  which  you  should  have  ready  chopped 
and  stewed  in  espagnole;  (the  h 
pai>|.-y,  lemon  ihyme,  marjoram,  basil,  aa- 
vory,  ami  a  few  chopped  mushrooms).  It 
innM  U-  can-fully  attended  to  and  .skimmed, 
and  OIK-  hour  and  a  half  Ix-fore  dinner,  put  in 
a  ixillle  of  .Ma  leira  wine,  and  nearly  lialf  a 
bottle  of  brandy,  keeping  it  continually  boil- 
ing ircutlv,  anil  skiimnin"  it;  then  take  a 
i  •  i  •  i 

basin,  pul  a  little  cayenne  pepper  into    it, 

w  illi  the  juice  of  six  lemons  squeezed  through 
a  sieve.  \Vlieu  the  dinner  is  wanted,  skim 
the  turtle,  stir  it  well  up,  and  put  in  a  little 
.-nit,  if  necessary;  tlien  stir  in  the  cayenne 
.rid  lemon-jiiii-e,  and  ladle  ii  into  the  tureen. 
This  receipt  will  answer  (or  a  turtle  between 
lil'ly  anil  sixty  [minds. 

IC-?*  For   Mock    Turtle    and    ottor 
Soup»,  See  Soups. 

TWELFTH     CAKE    ICING.      8<t 
Icing. 


V. 


VEAL.  The  names  of  the  joints  are  m 
follows:  Ixiin,  Ix-st  end — Loin,  chump  end 
—Fillet— Hind  Kmickfe—  Fore  knuckle— 
Neck,  best  end — Neck,  scrag  end — Blade 
bone — Breast,  best  end — Brisket  end. 

Veal  should  be  fine  in  the  grain,  firm, 
white,  and  fat,  and  the  leg  bone  small.  The 
finest  calves  have  the  smallest  kidney,  aiH  it* 
being  well  covered  with  thick  white  fat,  in- 
dicates good  veal.  The  fillet  of  a  cow  calf 
is  to  be  preferred,  on  account  of  the  udder. 
Tlie  prime  joints  arc  tlie  fillet,  tlie  loin,  the 


VEAL 


230 


VEAL 


chomp  end  of  the  loin,  and  the  best  end  of 
the  neck.  To  keep  it,  the  same  directions 
may  be  followed,  which  are  given  for  keeping 
beef. 

When  tlie  fillet  is  to  be  roasted,  it  should 
be  WB*bed,  well  dried,  and  the  bone  taken 
oat,  and  the  space  tilled  with  a  fine  stuffing, 
part  of  which  should  he  put  under  the  flap, 
then  formed  into  a  round  and  firmly  skew- 
ered. That  the  fire  may  he  dt-aii  and  strong, 
it  should  be  made  up  sometime  before  putting 
down  the  roast,  which  should  at  first  be 
placed  at  some  distance  from  it,  and  be  fre- 
quently and  well  basted  with  butler.  When 
about  half  roasted,  a  piece  of  white  paper  is 
tied  over  the  fat;  a  little  before  serving,  it 
is  remove  I,  the  meat  is  then  sprinkled  with 
salt,  dredged  with  flour,  and  well  Uisled  to 
froth  it.  When  dished,  finely  melted  butter 
is  poured  over  it,  with  which  mayor  may 
not  l«  mixed  some  lemon  pickle  or  brown 
gravy.  It  is  garnished  with  cut  lemon. 

Veal  is  expected  to  come  to  table  looking 
delicately  clean;  and  it  is  so  easily' discol- 
ored, that  you  must  be  careful  to  have  clean 
water,  a  clean  vessel,  and  constantly  catch 
the  scum  as  soon  and  as  long  as  it  rises. 
Send  up  bacon,  fried  sausages,  or  pickled 
pork,  greens,  and  ]»rsley  and  butter,  and 
onion  sauce. 

Veal  requires  particular  care  to  roast  it  a 
nice  brown.  Let  the  fire  IMJ  the  same  as  for 
beef;  a  sound  large  fire  for  a  large  joint,  and 
a  brisker  for  a  smaller;  put  it  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  fire  to  soak  thoroughly,  and 
then  draw  it  near  to  finish  it  brown. 

When  first  laid  down,  it  is  to  be  basted; 
baste  it  again  occasionally.  When  the  veal 
ig  on  tiie  dish,  pour  over  it  half  a  pint  of 
melted  butter:  if  you  have  a  little  brown 
gravy  by  you,  add  that  to  the  butter.  With 
those  joints  which  are  not  stuffed,  send  up 
forcemeat  in  balls,  or  rolled  into  sausages,  as 
garnish  to  the  dish,  or  fried  pork  sausages; 
bacon  and  greens,  are  also  always  expected 
with  boiled  veal. 

Fillet  of  Veal,  Of  from  twelve  to  sixteen 
pounds,  will  require  from  four  to  five  hours 
at  a  good  fire;  make  some  stuffing  or  force- 
meat, and  put  it  in  under  the  Hap,  that  there 
may  be  some  left  to  eat  cold,  or  to  season  a 
hash ;  brown  it,  and  pour  good  melted  butter 
over  it. 

(iarnii-h  with  thin  slices  of  lemon  and 
cakes  or  balls  of  stuffing,  or  duck  stuffing,  or 
fried  pork  sausages,  curry  sauce,  bacon  and 
greens,  &c. 

A  bit  of  the  brown  outside  is  a  favorite 
with  the  epicure  in  roasts.  The  kidney,  cut 
out,  sliced,  and  broiled,  is  a  high  relish, 
whicji  some  bans  vivants  are  fond  of. 

A  Loin,  Is  the  best  part  of  the  calf,  and 
will  take  about  three  hours  roasting.  I'a- 
per  the  kidney  fat,  and  the  back:  some 


cooks  send  it  up  on  a  toast,  which  is  eaten 
with  the  kidney  and  ihe  fat  of  this  part, 
which  is  as  delicate  as  any  marrow.  If 
there  is  more  of  it  than  you  think  will  be 
eaten  with  the  veal,  before  you  roasl  it  cut 
it  out  ;  it  will  make  an  excellent  suet  pud- 
ding; take  care  lo  have  your  fire  long 
enough  to  brown  the  ends;  same  accom- 
paniments as  above. 

A  Shoulder,  From  three  hours  to  three 
hours  »nd  a  half;  stuff  it  with  the  force- 
meat ordered  for  the  fillet  of  veal,  in  the 
under  side. 

Neck,  best  end,  Will  take  two  hours; 
same  accompaniments  as  fillet.  The  scrag 
parl  is  Ix-st  made  into  a  pie,  or  broth. 

Breast,  From  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two 
hours.  Let  the  caul  remain  till  it  is  almost 
done,  then  take  it  off  to  brown  it;  baste, 
flour,  and  froth  it. 

This  makes  a  savory  relish  for  a  luncheon 
or  supper:  or,  instead  of  roasting,  lx>il  it 
enough;  put  it  in  a  cloth  between  two  pew- 
ter dishes,  uilh  a  weight  on  the  upper  one, 
and  let  it  remain  so  till  cold;  then  pare 
and  trim,  eg-,',  and  crumb  it,  and  broil,  or 
warm  it  in  a  Dutch  oven;  serve  with  it 
ca|xrs,  or  wow  wow  sauce.  Breast  of 
mutton  may  I*  dressed  the  same  way. 

VEAL  ALAMODE.  See  Seef  Ala- 
mode. 

VEAL  BREAST,  STEWED   WITH 

GREEN  I'KAS.  Make  a  quart  of  gravy 
with  the  scrag  end ;  strain  it;  cut  the  rest 
of  the  veal  into  small  pieces  of  nearly  an 
equal  size;  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the 
giavy,  some  pepper,  salt,  mace,  half  an 
ounce  of  butter,  and  a  quart  of  green  peas. 
Cover  the  pan  closely,  and  let  it  slew  nearly 
two  hours;  then  put  in  a  lettuce  cut  small, 
and  let  it  stew  half  an  hour  longer.  A  lit- 
tle Ix-fore  serving,  add  half  an  ounce  of 
browned  butter,  mixed  with  a  little  flour. 

VEAL  BREAST,  BROILED.  Half 
roast  and  then  score  it;  season  it  with  pars- 
ley, a  few  finelv-minced  sweet  herbs,  a  lit- 
tle |>epper  and  salt,  and  broil  it.  Make  a 
sauce  with  some  gravy  seasoned  with  onion, 
grated  nutmeg,  mace,  salt,  and  an  anchovy; 
boil  and  strain  it;  thicken  it  with  llour  and 
butter.  Add  some  minced  capers  and  small 
mushrooms ;  pour  it  quite  hot  over  the  veal. 
Garnish  with  sliced  lemon. 

VEAL  BREAST,  COLLARED.  Bone 
it,  and  lay  over  it  a  thick  layer  of  force- 
meat, made  with  bread  cruml>s,  chopped 
oysters,  parsley,  and  grated  ham,  MMoned 
with  lemon-peel,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg, 
mixed  with  an  egg  Ijeaten  up.  Roll  and 
bind  it  with  tape;  boil  it  in  a  cloth,  and  put 


VEAL 


231 


VEAL 


k  on  in  boiling  water ;  let  it  boil  gently  for 
three  hours.  Boil  the  bones  with  an  onion, 
at  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  salt,  and  pepper ; 
strain  and  thicken  it  with  three  table-spoon- 
fuU  of  cream,  the  volks  of  two  egspi  beaten 
up,  and  a  bit  of  butter  mixed  with  flour. 
Parboil  and  slice  the  sweetbread,  dip  it 
into  an  egg, and  strew  over  it  grated  bread; 
fry  it  with  forcemeat  balls.  Serve  the 
veal  with  the  sauce  poured  over  it.  Gar- 
nish with  the  sweetbread  and  forcemeat 
balls. 

VEAL  BREAST,  STEWED.  (1)  Half 
roast  tin-  veal  till  of  a  light  brown,  then 
stew  it  over  a  stove  for  two  hours,  in  a 
rich  gravy,  with  a  shallot,  thi-ee  cloves,  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  little  walnut  pickle,  some 
oyster  liquor,  and  a  few  small  mushrooms. 
Half  an  hour  before  serving,  add  a  little 
anchovy  liquor.  Garnish  with  cut  lemon 
and  curled  parsley. 

VEAL  BREAST,  STEWED.   (2)  Cm 

out  tlie  blade  bone,  and  stuff  the  whole  with 
a  nice  forcemeat;  sew  it  up,  half  roast  it, 
and  make  a  quart  of  gravy  of  the  bones  and 
trimmings;  season  it  with  whole  pepper, 
two  blades  of  roace,  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  a 
large  onion,  some  salt,  and  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley. Strain  and  thicken  it  with  butter  roll- 
ed in  flour;  put  in  the  veal,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar;  let  it  stew  nearly  two 
hours.  A  little  before  serving,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  pickle,  and  a  glass  of 
white  wine.  Forcemeat  balls  may  be  serv- 
ed with  it. 

VEAI.  HKEAST,  STEWKU.  (3;  On 
off  the  short  bones  or  gristles  op  a  breast 
of  veal ;  stew  them  in  a  little  white  stock, 
with  a  slice  of  ham,  an  onion  stuck  with 
one  or  two  cloves,  some  whole  pepper,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  little  salt.  When 
tender,  take  out  the  meat,  strain  the  stock, 
and  put  it  on  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
green  peas;  boil  them,  and  add  the  veal, 
and  let  them  stew  for  twenty  minutes. 
Serve  the  gristles  in  the  middle,  and  the 
peas  round  them. 

VEAL  BROTH.    See  Broth. 

VEAL,  BROWN  ROLLKLOPS.  Cut 
off  some  thin  slices  from  a  fillet  of  veal,  and 
beat  them.  Take  part  of  the  fat  from  the 
loin  and  kidney  :  mince  it  finely  with  a 
email  bit  of  veal,  and  six  anchovies;  season 
with  salt,  pounded  ginger,  and  marc ;  put 
it  over  tlie  slices  of  veal,  and  roll  them  up. 
Dip  them  into  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg, 
and  then  into  (grated  breacf;  repeat  this  a 
•ecorfd  time,  and  fry  them  of  a  nice  brown 
color  in  clarified  beef  dripping,  then  stew 


them  in   some  good  gravy,  adding  a  little 
walnut  pickle  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine. 

VEAL  CAKE.  Take  some  nice  thin 
slices  of  veal,  and  season  them  with  salt, 
|>epper,  and  nutmeg,  grated;  have  ready 
some  hant-lxiiled  egg?,  sliced,  and  put  a 
layer  of  these  at  the  bottom  of  a  basin 
or  pan,  then  a  layer  of  veal,  then  some  slices 
of  ham,  over  this  strew  marjoram,  thyme, 
parsley,  shred  fine,  bread  crumbs  and  lemon- 
peel,  chopped  small  ;  then  a  layer  of  eggs, 
veal,  ham,  &c.  and  so  continue  till  the  pan 
is  filled;  pour  some  good  gravy  over  the 
whole,  cover  the  pan  with  coarse  brown 
paper,  tie  it  closely  over,  and  set  it  to  bake 
in  a  slow  oven;  an  hour  will  be  sufficient 
to  bake  it;  when  cold,  turn  it  out  upon  a 
dish,  and  serve;  garnish  with  parsley. 

VEAL  CAKE,  to  be  eaten  cold.  Pound 
in  a  mortar  as  much  cold  roasted  lean  veal 
as  will  fill  a  small  mould,  together  with  a 
slice  of  ham,  or  bacon,  a  piece  of  the  crumb 
of  bread  soaked  in  cold  milk,  two  beaten 
eggs,  a  small  bit  of  butter,  die  same  of  shal- 
lot, or  onion  ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  mix  all  well  together;  butter  the  mould, 
fill  it,  and  bake  it  in  ay  oven  for  abmit  an 
hour;  turn  it  out  when  cold,  and  cut  it  into 


lices. 
ley. 


Garnish  with  pickled  eggs  and  pars- 


VEAL COLD.  Cut  some  cold  veal  into 
thin  slices,  the  size  and  thickness  of  a  half 
crown,  dip  them  into  the  yolk  of  an  egg 
well  beaten,  cover  them  with  bread  crumbs, 
sweet  herbs,  lemon-peel  shred  fine,  and 
grated  nutmeg.  Put  a  little  fresh  butter  in- 
to a  pan,  make  it  quite  hot,  fry  the  veal  in 
it,  and  when  done,  lay  it  on  a  dish  by  the 
side  of  the  fire;  make  a  little  gravy  "of  a 
bone  of  veal,  shake  a  little  flour  into  the 
pan,  stir  it  round,  add  the  gravy  and  a  little 
lemon-juice,  pour  it  over  the  veal,  and  gar- 
nish with  lemon. 

VEAL  CHOPS,  BREADED.      Take 

six  or  seven  handsomely  cut  chops,  season 
them  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  them 
into  melted  butter;  when  sufficiently  soaked, 
put  them  into  beaten  eggs,  take  them  out, 
and  roll  each  separately  in  bread  crumbs; 
make  the  chops  as  round  as  you  can  with 
your  hand,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  ;  w  hen 
all  are  breaded,  broil  them  slowly  over  a 
moderate  fire,  that  the  bread  may  not  be  too 
highly  colored.  Serve  with  clear  gravy. 

VEAL,  TO  COLLAR.  Bone  a  breast 
of  veal,  and  beat  it  flat;  cover  the  inside 
with  a  nire  stuffing  moistened  with  eggs; 
roll  it  very  tightly,  bind  it,  and  bake  it  in  an 
oven  with  some  weak  stock  in  the  dish. 


VEAL 


233 


VEAL 


Make  a  rich  gravy;  strain  and  thicken  it, 
and  pour  it  over  the  veal.  Serve  witli  or 
without  forcemeat  balls,  and  garnish  with 
cut  lemon.  It  will  keep  for  a  long  time  in 
a  pickle  made  \viih  bran  ami  water,  a  little 
salt,  and  vinegar,  poured  cold  over  it. 

VEAL  CONES.  Mince  small  one  pound 
and  a  half  of  cold  veal,  two  ounces  of  butter, 
and  a  .slice  of  lean  ham;  pound  them  in  a 
mortar,  and  mix,  in  five  (able-spoonfuls  of 
cream,  two  tea -spoonfuls  of  pepper,  one  of 
salt,  and  some  grated  lemon-peel.  Make  it 
up  into  cones  about  three  inches  high;  rub 
them  over  with  an  egg  beaten  up,  sift  grated 
bread  over  them,  and  fry  them  of  a  light 
brown  color;  put  fried  bread  crumbs  into 
the  dish,  an:l  place  t!ie  cones  upon  them,  or 
serve  ihem  with  a  brown  gravy  instead  of 
crumbs.  Cold  fowl,  turkey,  or  rabbit  make 
good  cones.  Half  the  ingredients  will  be 
sufficient  for  a  corner  dish. 

VEAL,  COLD  DRESSED.  Mince 
finely  the  fat  and  lean  of  cold  roast  veal, 
season  it  with  grated  nutmeg,  lemon-peel, 
pepper,  and  salt;  moisten  it  with  a  little 
rich  white  stock,  and  a  Ijeaten  egg;  butter 
a  pudding,  shape,  put  in  the  mince,  and 
press  it  firmly,  cover  it  closely,  and  set  it 
into  a  pan  of  boiling  water;  let  it  boil  an 
hour  or  two.  Serve  it  with  a  white  gravy 
thickened,  or  when  turned  out  of  the  shape, 
rub  it  over  the  top  with  the  beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg;  sift  bread  crumbs  thickly  oxer,  and 
brown  it  in  a  Dutch  oven;  baste  it  with  a 
little  melted  butter.  Garnish  with  fried 
parsley  or  cut  lemon. 

VEAL  CUTLETS.  (I)  Let  your  cutlets 
be  about  half  an  inch  thick;  trim  them,  and 
flatten  them  with  a  cleaver;  you  may  fry 
them  in  fresh  butler,  or  good  drippings ;  when 
brown  on  one  side,  turn  them  and  do  the 
other ;  if  the  fire  is  very  fierce,  they  must 
change  sides  oftener.  The  time  (hey  will 
take  depends  on  the  thickness  of  the  cutlet 
and  the  heat  of  the  fire;  half  an  inch  thick 
will  take  about  fifteen  minutes.  Make  some 
gravy,  by  (Hitting  tlie  trimmings  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  little  soft  water,  an  onion,  a  roll 
of  leinon-|)eel,  a  Made  of  mace,  a  sprig  of 
thyme  and  parsley,  and  a  bay  leaf;  stew 
over  a  flow  fire  an  hour,  then  strain  it;  put 
an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  slewpan ;  as  soon 
as  it  is  melted,  mix  with  it  as  much  flour  as 
will  dry  it  up,  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  the  gravy  by  degrees  till 
it  is  all  mixed,  lx>il  it  lor  five  minutes, 
and  strain  it  through  a  tamis  sieve,  and  put 
it  to  the  cutlets;  you  may  add  ,some  brown- 
ing, mushroom,  or  walnut  ketchup,  or  lemon 
pickle,  &c.:  Or,  Cut  the  veal  into  pieces 
about  as  big  as  a  crown-piece,  beat  them 


with  a  cleaver,  dip  them  in  eggs  beat  up 
will)  a  little  silt,  and  then  in  fine  bread 
crumbs;  fry  them  a  light  brown  in  boiling 
lard;  serve  under  them  some  good  gravy  or 
mushroom  sauce,  which  may  be  made  in  five 
minutes.  Garnish  with  slices  of  ham  or 
rashers  of  bacon,  or  pork  sau- 

Veal  forcemeat  or  stuffing,  pork  sausages, 
rashers  of  bacon,  are  very  relishing  accom- 
paniments, fried  and  sent  up  in  the  form  of 
balls  or  cakes,  and  laid  round  as  a  garnish. 

VEAL  CUTLETS.  (2)  Cut  a  neck  of 
veal  into  cutlets,  or  take  them  off  a  leg. 
Season  two  well-beaten  eggs  with  pounded 
mace,  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  and  finely-chop- 
ped sweet  marjoram,  lemon  thyme,  and  pars- 
ley; dip  the  cutlets  into  it,  sift  over  them 
grated  bread,  and  fi-y  them  in  clarified  butter. 
Serve  with  a  white  sauce,  forcemeat  lialls, 
and  small  mushrooms.  Garnish  w  id)  fried 
purs-ley. 

VEAL  CUTLETS.  (3)  Cut  a  neck 
of  veal  into  thin  cutlets,  and  beat  them; 
brown  some  butter  with  an  onion  and  some 
parsley  chopped  small.  Dip  the  cutlets  into 
the  butler,  and  then  into  finely  grated  bread, 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt;  broil  them 
of  a  brown  color ;  mince  the  |>eel  of  half  an 
orange  pared  very  thin ;  add  it  and  a  grate 
of  ginger  to  some  good  thickened  gravy,  and 
pour  it  hot  upon  the  cutlets. 

VEAL  CUTLETS.  (4)  Cut  them  off 
a  leg,  or  from  the  thick  part  of  a  loin  of 
veal;  beat  them  a  little  with  a  rolling-pin, 
and  fry  them  in  butter  of  a  light  In-own. 
Take  them  out  of  the  pan.  pour  off  the  tat- 
ter, and  strew  over  them  grated  bread,  sea- 
soned with  minced  parsley  and  lemon  thyme, 
grated  lemon-peel  and  nutmeg,  pep|x>r,  and 
salt.  Put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece 
of  fresh  butter,  and  let  them  fry  slowly  (ill  of 
a  good  brown.  Add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
good  gravy,  and  a  small  tea-cupful  of  thick 
cream;  let  it  be  made  very  hot,  frequently 
shaking  the  pan.  Serve  it  garnished  with 
cut  lemon  or  forcemeat  balls,  mushrooms, 
and  false  eggs.  False  eggs  are  made  of  the 
yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  which  are 
rubbed  smooth,  and  then  made  up  with  fresh 
butter  into  the  form  of  small  eggs. 

VEAL  CUTLETS,  VENITIAN.    Cnt 

into  neat  cutlets  the  best  part  of  a  neck  of 
veal;  trim  and  flatten  them.  Chop  sepa- 
rately half  a  pint  of  mushrooms,  a  few  shal- 
lots, and  a  little  |>arsley ;  stew  tliese  aver  a 
slow  fire,  with  a  small  bit  or'  butter  and  a 
little  rasped  tiit  baron.  When  done,  put  in 
the  cutlets,  and  season  them  well  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  let  them  stew  over  a  slow  fire 
till  quite  tender;  skim  off  the  fat,  and  add 


VEAL 


233 


VEAL 


a  spoonful  of  sauce  tournee,  and  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs  beaten  with  a  little  cream,  llien 
mix  in  die  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  cay- 
enne. 

VEAL,  FILLET,  STEWED.     Bone, 

lard,  mid  stuff  a  fillet  of  veal ;  hull"  roast,  and 
then  stew  it  with  two  quarts  of  white  stork, 
a  te:i-s|XHinful  of  lemon  pickle  and  one  of 
mushroom  ketchup.  Before  serving,  strain 
the  gravy,  thicken  it  will)  Initler  rolled  in 
.  i  a  little  cayenne,  salt,  and  some 
pickled  mii.-hrooins;  heal  it,  and  pour  it  over 
I  he  \e;d.  Have  ready  two  or  three  dozen  of 
forcemeat  hall:-  to  put  round  it  and  upon  the 
top.  (i.unish  with  cut  lemon. 

VEAL,    FLORENTINE.     Take   two 

veal  kidneys,  and  mince  them  with  their 
fat,  very  small,  and  mix  it  with  a  few  cur- 
rants, i  ho  yolks  of  four  or  five  eggs,  boiled 
hard,  and  chopped  small,  a  pippin  cut  fine, 
some  luead  crumb.-,  candied  lemon-peel,  cut 
small,  and  season  with  nutmeg,  cl 

little    ir.'itintain    wine,    and    some 
orange-Mower   water;   line   the   Ixittom  of  a 
dish  with  a  nice  pulV|xiMe,  put  in  the  above, 
COMT  it  wilh  pull  [Kiste,  and  set  it  to  bake  | 
in  a  j-liw  oven. 

VEAL  FORCEMEAT.  Of  undressed 
lean  veal  (after  you  have  scraped  it  quite 
fine,  and  free  from  skin  and  sinews),  two 
:iie  same  quantity  of  beef  or  veal 
suet,  and  the  same  of  bread  cnimlhi;  chop 
fine  two  drachms  of  parsley,  one  of  lemon- 
peel,  one  of  sweet  herbs,  one  of  onion,  and 
half  a  drachm  of  mace,  or  all.-pice,  beaten  to 
fine  powder;  |x>und  all  together  in  a  mortar; 
break  into  it  the  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg; 
rub  it  all  up  well  lordlier,  and  mason  it  with 
a  little  |jop|n-r  and  .-alt.  Tin-  may  U-  made 
more  savory  by  the  addition  of  cold  tailed 
pickled  tongue,  anchovy,  eschalot,  cayenne 
t>r  curry  powder,  &c. 

VEAL.FRICANDEAU.  (1)  Cut  a  piece 

of  veal  from  llie  leg,  the  same  in  width  and 
depth,  and  about  eight  inches  in  length. 
Make  a  hole  in  the  under  part,  and  fill  it 
with  forcemeat;  sew  it  up,  lard  the  lop  and 
sides,  cover  it  with  slices  of  fat  bacon,  and 
then  with  white  paper.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan some  slices  of  undressed  mutton,  three 
onions  and  one  carrot  sliced,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  heilw,  an  1  a  ijiiart  of  good  stock ;  put 
in  the  veal,  cover  the  pan  closely,  and  let  it 
stew  for  three  hours.  Take  out  tl)e  veal, 
•train  the  ijr.ivv,  and  take  off  all  the  fat; 
add  a  lal.le-spooriful  of  lemon  pickle,  and 
three  of  white  wine;  Ixiil  it  quirk  toa  glase; 
keep  the  li  :•  an  :•  m  "ver  hot  water  and  cov- 
ered, then  claw  it,  and  serve  with  the  rest 
20* 


of  the  glaze  poured  round  it,  and  sorrel  sauce, 
in  a  sauce  tureen. 

VEAL,  FRICANDEAU.  (2)  Cut  some 
slices  of  veal,  lard  them  all  through,  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  some  wh 
and  a  bit  of  ham,  one  onion,  a  little  mace 
and  pep|XT.  {Stew  them  gently  an  hour  and 
a  half;  take  lliem  out,  strain  the  :;tav\,  and 
take  off  all  the  fat;  boil  it  up  quickly,  lay  in 
the  frit-andean,  and  stew  them  till  the  liquor 
Incomes  like  a  brown  jelly;  lake  care  they 
do  not  bum.  Scald  in  Imiling  water  three 
handfub  of  sorrel,  chop  it,  take  out  the  meat, 
and  make  the  sorrel  hot  in  the  sauce,  and 
serve  the  fi  icandeau  upon  it. 

\T.\I..  riMCANDEAU.  (3)  Chop  very 
finelv  one  pound  of  the  lean  of  a  loin  of  veal, 
and  half  a  pound  of  the  kidney  fat;  season 
it  with  pepper,  salt,  grated  lemon-peel,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  and  a  finely-shred  an- 
chovy. Soak,  in  boiling  milk,  two  rusks, 
or  biscuits,  and  mix  it  all  well  together; 
make  it  into  balls,  with  a  little  flour.  Fry 
iliem  of  a  light  brown,  in  butter,  then  stew 
them  in  some  highly-i»easoned  gravy,  dish 
them  carefully,  and  strain  the  gravy  over 
tin-in,  (iarnish  with  cut  lemon. 

VEAL,  FRICANDEAU.  (4)  Take  the 
round  or  part  of  tlie  round  of  a  fillet^  fry  it 
in  butter,  of  a  nice  brown,  with  onions  cut 
in  dices,  and  a  little  garlic,  then  set  il  to 
stew  in  some  very  rich  gravy  or  cullis:  when 
lender,  t.ike  it  out,  thicken  the  gravv  with 
flour,  add  a  little  lemon-juice,  and*  serve 
this  sauce  over  the  veal. 

VEAL  FRITTERS.  Cut  the  remain 
of  a  tender  piece  of  veal  into  small,  thin, 
round  piece*;  dip  these  into  a  good  batter, 
and  fry  them  in  the  usual  way,  in  oil.  When 
done,  drain,  sprinkle  salt  over,  and  serve 
them. 

VEAL,  HASHED  OR  MINCED.  To 
make  a  hash  cut  the  meat  into  slices; — to 
.,in. -i. I  \cal,  mince  it  as  fine  as 
pos.-ihlo  (do  not  chop  it);  put  il  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  few  sp  lonfuls  of  veal  or  mutton 
broth,  or  make  some  with  the  bones  and 
trimmings,  as  ordered  for  veal  outlets,  a  little 
boon-pad  minced  fine,  a  spoonful  of  milk  or 
cream;  thicken  with  luitter  and  flour,  and 
season  it  with  salt,  a  labk--s|x  M  infill  of  lemon 
pickle,  or  Kne\\  wine,  or  a  pinch  of  curry 
powder. 

If  you  have  no  cream,  beat  up  the  yolks 
of  a  couple  of  e;",-s  with  a  little  milk:  line 
the  dish  with  sip|<otsof  lightly  toasted  bread. 

Mi'.iced  veal  makes  a  very  pretty  dish  put 
into  scollop  shells,  and  bread  crumbed  over, 


VEAL 


234 


VEAL 


and  sprinkled  with  a  little  Imtter,  and  brown- 
ed in  a  Duicli  ovgn,  or  a  cheese-toaster. 

VEAL,  KEBOBBED.  Cut  into  thin 
bits  the  size  of  a  crown-piece  some  lean  veal ; 
season  them  with  tnmeric,  |>epper,  and  sail. 
Slice  onions  very  thinly,  and  some  garlic: 
put  the  slices  of  veal  and  onion  upon  a  skewer, 
together  with  thin  bits  of  pickled  pork.  Fry 
them  brown  with  butler,  and  garnish  with 
plenty  of  fi  ied  parsley. 

VEAL,   KNUCKLE,  RAGOUT.     Cut 

a  knuckle  of  veal  into  slices  about  half  an 
inch  thick;  pep|>er,  .salt,  and  flour  them; 
fry  them  a  light  brown ;  put  the  trimmings 
into  a  stewpan,  with  the  done  broke  in  sev- 
eral places;  an  onion  sliced,  a  head  of  cele- 
ry, a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  two  blades 
of  bruised  mace:  pour  in  warm  water  enough 
to  cover  them  about  an  inch;  cover  the  pot 
close,  and  let  it  stew  very  gently  for  a  couple 
of  hours;  drain  it,  and  then  thicken  it  with 
flour  and  butter  ;  put  in  a  spoonful  of  ketch- 
up, a  glass  of(  wine,  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon  ; 
give  it  a  boil  up,  and  strain  into  a  clean 
stewpan  ;  put  in  the  meat,  make  it  hot, 
and  serve  up. 

Obs. — If  celery  is  not  to  be  had,  use  a 
carrot  instead  or  flavor  it  with  celery  seed. 

VEAL  KNUCKLE,  STEWED  WITH 
RICE.  As  boiled  knuckle  of  veal  cold  is 
not  a  very  favorite  relish  with  the  generality, 
cut  off  some  steaks  from  it,  which  you  may 
dress  as  in  the  foregoing  receipt,  and  leave 
the  knuckle  no  larger  than  will  be  eaten  the 
day  it  is  dressed.  Break  the  shank  bone, 
wash  it  clean,  and  put  it  in  a  large  stewpan 
with  two  quarts  of  water,  an  onion,  two 
blades  of  mace,  and  a  tea-s|>oonful  of  sail : 
set  it  on  a  quick  fire ;  when  it  boils,  take 
off  all  the  scum.  Wash  and  pick  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  rice;  put  it  into  the  slewpan 
with  the  meat,  and  let  it  stew  very  gently 
for  about  two  hours:  put  the  meat,  &c.  in  a 
deep  dish,  and  the  rice  round  it.  Send  up 
l»con  with  it,  parsnips,  or  greens,  and  finely 
minced  parsley  and  butter. 

VEAL,  KNUCKLE,  SOUP.  A  knuckle 
of  veal  of  six  pounds,  weight,  will  make  a 
large  tureen  of  excellent  soup,  and  is  thus 
easily  prepared:  cut  half  a  pound  of  bacon 
into  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick,  lay  it  at 
the  bottom  of  a  soup-kettle,  or  deep  siewpan, 
and  on  this  place  the  knuckle  of  veal,  having 
first  chopped  the  bone  in  two  or  three  places  • 
furnish  it  with  two  carrots,  two  turnips,  a 
head  of  celery,  two  large  onions,  with  two 
or  three  cloves  stuck  in  one  of  tho.:n,  :i  doy.cn 
corns  of  black,  and  the  same  of  Jamaica 
pepper,  and  a  good  bundle  of  lemon  thyme, 
winter  savory,  and  parsley.  Just  cover  the 


meat  with  cold  water,  and  set  it  over  a  quick 
fire  till  it  boils;  having  skimmed  it  well, 
remove  your  soup-kettle  to  the  side  of  tl>e 
fire  ;  let  il  stew  very  gently  till  it  is  quite 
tender,  i.  e.  alxnit  four  hours ;  then  take  out 
the  bacon  and  veal,  strain  the  soup,  and  set 
it  by  in  a  cool  place  till  yon  want  it.  when 
yon  must  take  off  the  fat  from  the  surface  of 
your  liquor,  and  decant  it  (keeping  back  the 
settlings  at  the  bottom)  into  a  clean  pan. 

If  you  like  a  thickened  .soup,  put  three  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  the  fat  von  have  laken  off  the 
soup  into  a  small  steu(>.tn,  and  mix  it  with 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  tlour,  pour  a  ladleful 
of  soup  to  it,  and  mix  it  with  the  rest  by  de- 
grees, and  boil  it  up  till  it  is  smooth. 

Cut  the  meat  and  gristle  of  the  knuckle 
and  the  bacon  into  mouthftils,  and  put  them 
into  the  soup,  and  let  them  get  warm. 

You  may  make  this  more  savory  by  ad- 
ding ketchup,  &c.  Shin  of  beef  may  be 
dressed  in  the  same  way;  see  Knuckle  of 
Veal  stewed  with  Rice. 

VEAL  LEG  IN  SURPRISE.  Lard 
the  veal  with  slips  of  bacon,  and  a  little 
lemon-peel  cut  very  thin  ;  make  stuffing  the 
same  as  for  a  fillet  of  veal,  only  mix  with  it 
half  a  pint  of  oysters  chopped  small,  and 
.stuff  your  veal  with  this,  and  put  it  to  stew 
with  just  sufficient  water  to  cover  it;  let  it 
stew  very  gently  till  quite  tender;  then  take 
it  up;  skim  off  the  fat  from  the  liquor, 
and  add  some  lemon-juice,  some  mushroom 
ketchup,  the  crumb  of  a  roll  grated  fine,  half 
a  pint  of  oysters,  a  pint  of  cream,  and  a  bit 
of  butler  rolled  in  Hour;  let  this  sauce  thick 
en  over  the  fire,  and  serve  it  over  the  veal  ; 
garnish  the  dish  with  oysters,  dipped  in 
butter,  and  fried,  and  thin  slices  of  toasted 
bacon. 

VEAL,  MINCED.  Cut  thin  slices  of 
lean  cold  veal;  mince  them  verv  finely  with 
a  knife,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  grated 
lemon-peel  and  nutmeg;  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan, with  a  little  while  stock  or  water,  a 
table-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle,  and  a  little 
mushroom  powder.  Simmer,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil;  add  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
and  a  little  milk  or  cream;  put  all  round 
the  dish  thin  sippets  of  bread  cut  into  a 
three-cornered  shape;  or  cover  the  mince 
thickly  with  grated  bread,  seasoned  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  butter,  and  brown 
it  with  a  salamander;  or  serve  with  poached 
eggs  laid  upon  the  top. 

VEAL  OLIVES.  Cut  thin  slices  off  a 
fillet,  and  flatten  them  with  a  roller;  season 
them  highly  will)  pepper,  mace,  salt,  and 
grated  lemon-peel;  put  a  bit  of  fat  into  each 
roll,  and  tie  them  with  a  thread.  Fry  them 
of  a  light  brown,  and  stew  them  in  some 


VEAL 


235 


VEAL 


white  stock  with  two  dozen  of  fried  oysters, 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  pickle  and  some  small  mushroom*. 
Stew  ilicin  nearly  an  hour;  take  off  the 
threads  befiire  serving. 

Beef  olives  may  be  dressed  in  the  same 
way. 

VEAL  PATTIES.  Mince  some  under- 
ilone  veal  with  a  little  parsley,  one  or  two 

sai.'f  leave-,  ;i  MTV  little  onion  ;  season  with 
grated  lemon-peel,  nutmeg,  pep|>cr,  and  salt ; 
add  some  Dialed  lean  ham  or  tongue,  moisten 
it  with  some  good  gravy,  heat  it  up,  and  put 
it  into  the  patties. 

VEAL  AND  HAM  PATTIES.  Chop 
alxiiit  six  ounces  of  ready-dressed  lean  veal, 
and  three  ounces  of  ham  very  small;  put  it 
into  a  stew  pan  with  an  ounce  of  butter  roll- 
ed into  riiinr,  half  a  ^'ill  of  cream;  half  a 
•(ill  of  veal  -t..ek  ;  a  little  grated  mi' 
HDOO-fWel,  SOUK'  e  'venne  pepper  and  salt,  a 
.«|Xhiiitiil  of  essence  of  ham  and  lemon-juice, 
and  stir  it  over  the  fire  sometime,  taking 
care  it  does  not  burn. 

VKU,  AM)  HAM  PIE.  Take  two 
pounds  of  veal  ciulels,  cut  them  in  middling- 
sized  pi.  .  iih  [M'pper  and  a  very 

f  law  or  dressed 

ham  cut  in  slii ••  •-,  l.iv  ii  alternately  in  the 
dish,  ami  put  some  forced  or  sausage  meat 
,i,  with  some  stewed  button  mu-h- 
rooins,  and  tin-  \olks  of  three  eggs  boiled 
liard,  ami  a  u'lll  of  water;  then  proceed  as 
with  rump-sleak  pir. 

N.  1!. — The  I  >est  end  of  a  neck  i*  the  fine 
part  lor  a  pie,  cut  into  clio|xs,  and  the  chine 
bone  taken  aw.ij . 

Vi:  \L  PIE.  (1)  Cut  a  neck  of  veal  into 
neat  steaks,  season  them  well  with  white 
pepper,  salt,  mace,  and  grated  n'ltmcg  mix- 
ed;  park  them  closely  into  a  dish,  and  put 
in  hall' a  pint  of  white  stock;  live  haid-l>oi!- 
6(1  yolks  of  ejjgs  may  In-  added;  put  [Miff 
paste  mi  the  edge  of  the  ili.-h,  and  cover  with 
the  same.  Laml>s'  Mi's  may  be  made  into  a 
pie,  w  iiii  lamb  chops  seasoned  in  the  same 

VI.  \I,  PIE.  (2)  Cut  into  steaks  a 
loin  or  hrea-t  of  v. -,d.  season  them  highly 
with  pep|N-r,  sail,  grated  nutmeg,  m 
a  little  lemon-p-el  mix"d;  lay  them  into 
the  Ixittom  of  a  di-ii,  and  then  n  few  slices 
of  sweetbread*  seasoned  with  tin-  spiei«; 
add  Sume  oyster.-,  forcemeat  lull-,  and  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  eggs  half  a  pint  of  while 
Mock,  a  glass  of  while  wine,  and  a  table- 
spoon fu  I  <f  lemon  |  irklc;  put  pntF  paste  on 
the  edge  of  the  dish,  ami  rover  with  l]>e 
same;  buke  it  for  one  h  m  . 


VEAL  PIE.  (3)  Chop,  but  not  very 
small,  the  meat  of  a  cold  loin  of  veal,  season 
it  with  minced  parsley,  pepper,  salt,  grated 
lemon-|>ecl,  and  nutmeg;  add  rather  more 
than  half  a  pint  of  stock  made  with  the 
bones,  thickened  with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled 
'  in  flour,  and  seasoned  with  a  tea-spoonful 
of  lemon  pickle,  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
while  wine;  make  a  paste  of  the  fat  of  the 
loin,  and  an  e<]iial  quantity  of  tlour,  rub  it 
together,  and  mix  with  it  a  little  cold  writer, 
roll  it  out  two  or  three  times,  line  the  sides 
of  the  dish,  put  in  the  meat,  and  cover  it. 

VEAL  PIE,  SOLID.  Stew  in  veal 
stock,  till  it  be  perfectly  tender  and  like  a 
jelly,  a  piece  of  a  knuckle  of  veal,  with  the 
gristles  adhering  to  it;  let  it  cool,  and  then 
pull  the  meat  and  gristles  into  small  bita; 
Imttcr  a  pie  dish  or  shape,  and  lay  at  regular 
distances  some  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs, 
and  some  of  the  white  part  cut  into  rin^s 
or  strips;  then  put  over  some  bits  of  tin; 
meat  and  gristle,  and  strew  over  it  some 
pep|>er,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg  mixed,  and 
a  little  of  the  gravy,  and  then  more  < 
with  small  bits  of  beet  root,  green  pkl 
and  tl>e  red  part  of  a  carrot  cut  to  fancy; 
add  more  meal  seasoning,  and  all  tlie  gravy; 
when  tlie  shape  is  full,  put  it  into  an  oven 
for  twenty  minutes,  and  when  quite  cold 
turn  it  out.  If  rightly  done,  it  will  have  a 
glazed  appearance,  and  the  variety  of  col- 
ors look  well  by  candle  light. 

VEAL,  POTTED.  Cut  slices  off  a  teg 
of  veal,  and  season  them  with  pcp|>er,  pound- 
ed mace,  cloves,  and  salt.  Lay  thin  slices 
of  fiesh  butter  l>etween  each  layer  of  meat 
into  a  potting  pan  or  jar;  cover  it  closely, 
and  liake  it  with  bread.  When  it  is  cold, 
|H>nnd  the  meat  in  a  marble  mortar,  (Kick  it 
into  a  jar,  and  pour  clarified  butter 
over  it. 


VEAL,    COLD,    A\    EXCELLENT 

U  \<  ;<  M'T.  Either  a  neck,  loin,  or  fillet  of 
veal,  will  furnish  this  excellent  ragout  with 
a  very  little  expense  or  trouble. 

Cut  the  veal  into  handsome  cutlets  ;  put 
a  piece  of  tauter  or  clean  dripping  into  a 
i!  \  I'M-pan  ;  as  soon  as  it  is  hot,  Hour  and 
Ii  v  the  veal  of  a  light  brown:  take  it  out, 
and  if  you  have  no  i;ia\\  n-ady,  make  some 
as  directed  under  sauces,  or  put  a  pint  of 
boiling  water  into  the  frying-pan,  give  it  a 
boil  up  tor  a  minute,  and  strain  it  into  a 
basin  while  yon  make  some  thickening  in 
the  follow  ing  manner:  put  about  an  ounce 
of  butter  into  a  stew  pan;  as  soon  as  it  nielis, 
mix  with  it  .1-  nmrli  (lour  as  will  dry  it  up; 
stir  it  over  the  fiie  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
gradually  add  to  it  the  gravy  yon  made  in 
tlie  living-pan;  let  them  simmer  together 


VEAL 


236 


VEG 


for  ten  minutes  (till  thoroughly  incorjxirat- 
ed) ;  season  it  with  pep|>er,  salt,  a  little 
mace,  and  a  wine-glassful  of  mushroom 
ketchup  or  wine;  strain  it  through  a  tarnis 
to  the  meat,  and  stew  very  gently  till  the 
meat  is  thoroughly  wanned.  If  you  have 
any  ready-boiled  bacon,  cut  it  in  slices,  and 
put  it  in  to  warm  with  the  meat. 

VEAL  ROLL.  Bone  a  small  breast  of 
veal,  and  spread  over  it  a  rich  and  highly- 
seasoned  forcemeat.  Cut  four  hard-boiled 
eggs  the  long  way  into  four  pieces,  and  lay 
them  in  rows,  with  green  pickles  between 
each  row.  Roll  up  the  veal  tightly,  and 
sew  it;  then  put  it  into  a  cloth,  and  bind  it 
with  tape.  Lay  a  slice  of  ham  over  it,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan,  together  with  some 
strong  stock,  and  a  little  whole  pepper,  and 
etew  it  for  three  hours.  Make  a  rich  gru- 
vy,  and  boil  it  up  with  a  little  white  wine 
and  lemon-juice  or  lemon-pickle;  po  ir  it 
over  the  veal ;  add  some  egg  and  forcemeat 
balls,  and  garnish  with  cut  green  pickles. 
Thi-  dish  is  very  good  when  cold. 

VEAL  SAUSAGES.  Take  equal  quan- 
tities of  lean  veal  and  fat  bacon,  a  handful 
of  sage,  and  a  few  anchovies.  Beat  all  in 
a  mortar,  and  season  well  with  pepper  and 
salt ;  when  wanted  for  use,  roll  and  fry  it, 
and  serve  either  with  fried  sippets,  or  on 
stewed  vegetables,  or  white  collops. 

VEAL  SEMELLES.  Cut  part  of  a 
fillet  of  veal  into  slices  an  inch  thick,  season 
them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  give  them  a 
few  turns  in  a  little  butter,  with  a  bay  leaf. 
Lay  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  saucepan  a  very 
thin  slice  of  bacon,  and  on  it  one  of  the 
slices  of  veal,  and  continue  to  lay  them  in 
alternately,  until  the  whole  are  used,  then 
add  a  glass  of  water  and  some  bay  leaves ; 
close  the  saucejian  very  tight,  first  putting 
a  sheet  of  pajier  over  the  meat ;  stew  it  on 
hot  ashes  for  four  or  five  hours;  take  care 
to  keep  the  fire  up  to  the  same  point  all  the 
time. 

VEAL  STOCK.  Cut  a  leg  of  veal  and 
some  lean  ham  into  pieces,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan,  with  a  quart  of  water,  some 
carrots,  turnips,  onions,  Iccks,  and  celery; 
stew  them  down  till  nearly  done,  but  do  not 
let  it  color;  then  add  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  beef  stock  to  cover  the  ingredients,  and 
let  it  boil  for  an  hour;  skim  olT  all  the  fat, 
and  strain  it ;  a  little  game  slewed  down 
with  the  above  will  greatly  improve  the  fla- 
vor; be  particularly  careful  that  it  does  not 
burn. 

VEAL  SWEETBREADS  ROASTED. 
Trim  off  the  tough  part,  and  blanch  for  three 


minules  in  a  stevvpan  of  water,  with  a  little 
salt,  three  Iwart  sweetbreads,  then  tiikethem 
out,  and  put  them  into  a  basin  of  cold  water 
till  cool ;  have  an  egg  beat  up  in  a  di.-h,  some 
bread  cruml>s,  and  clarified  butter,  run  a 
skewer  through  the  sweetbread*,  and  fasten 
them  on  the  spit;  egg  them  all  over,  shake 
some  bread  crumbs  over,  then  sprinkle  clari- 
fied butter  over,  and  then  bread  crumbs 
again;  put  them  down  to  roast  again  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  then  take  them  off  the 
skewer,  and  serve  them  on  a  dish  over  a  little 
butter  sauce,  mixed  with  a  spoonful  c.f  yravy, 
a  small  bit  of  glaze,  and  a  squeeze  of  lernon- 
juice;  let  it  be  hot,  but  not  lx>iling,  and 
thin oughly  well  mixed  before  it  is  served 
under  the  sweetbreads. 

VEGETABLES.  There  is  nothing  in 
which  the  difference  between  an  elegant  and 
an  ordinary  table  is  more  wen  than  in  the 
dressing  of  vegetables,  more  especially  greens. 
They  may  be  equally  as  fine  at  first,  at  one 
place  as  at  another;  but  their  look  and 
taste  are  afterward  very  different,  entirely 
from  the  careless  way  in  which  they  have 
been  cooked. 

They  are  in  greatest  perfection  when  in 
greatest  plenty,  i.  e.  when  in  (iill  soa.-oti. 

By  season,  I  do  not  mean  those  early  days, 
that  luxury  in  the  buyers,  and  aval  ice  in  tho 
sellers,  force . the  vegetables;  but  that  time 
of  the  year  in  which  by  nature  and  common 
culture,  and  the  mere  operation  of  the  sun 
and  climate,  they  are  in  most  plenty  and 
perfection. 

As  to  the  quality  of  vegetables,  the  middle 
size  are  preferred  to  the  largest  or  the  small- 
est; they  are  more  tender,  juicy,  and  full 
of  flavor,  just  before  thev  are  quite  full-grown. 
Freshness  is  their  chief  value  and  excellence, 
and  I  should  as  stwn  think  of  roasting  an 
animal  alive,  as  of  boiling  a  vegetable  after 
it  is  dead. 

The  eye  easily  discovers  if  they  have  been 
kept  too  long ;  they  soon  lose  their  beauty  in 
all  respects. 

Roots,  greens,  salads,  &c.  and  the  various 
productions  of  the  garden,  when  first  gather- 
ed, are  plump  and  firm,  and  have  a  fragrant 
freshness  no  art  can  give  them  again,  \\  eu 
thev  have  lost  it  by  long  keeping;  ii 
will  refresh  them  a  little  to  put  them  into 
cold  spring  water  for  sometime  before  they 
are  dressed. 

To  boil  them  in  soft  water  will  preserve 
the  color  best  of  such  as  are  green;  if  you 
have  only  hard  water,  put  to  it  a  tea-spoon- 
fnl  of  carbonate  of  potash.  ' 

Take  care  to  wash  and  cleanse  them 
thoroughly  from  dust,  dirt,  and  insects:  this 
requires  great  attention.  Pick  off  all  the 
outside  leaves,  trim  them  nicely,  and,  if  not 
quite  fresh  gathered  and  have  become  flaccid, 


VE  G 


237 


VEG 


it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  restore  their 
-  before  cooking  tlietn,  or  they  will 
be  ton^h  and  unpleasant:  l;iy  them  in  a  pan 
of  clean  water.  x\illi  a  handful  of  salt  in  it, 
for  an  hour  before  \mi  dress  tlx-ni. 

They  should  always  l*>  Ixiiled  in  a  sauce- 
j»n  by  themselves,  and  have  plents  <•!'  water; 
if  moat  is  boiled  with  them  in  I  hi/  same  pot, 
they  will  spoil  ihr  look  and  teate  of  each  other. 

It'  you  wish  to  have  vegetables  delicately 
cli  an,  put  on  \our  |)ot,  make  it  Ixiil,  put  a 
little  salt  in  il,  anil  skim  it  |x-ileetU  clean 
Ijefore  you  put  in  the  green<,  ^r.;  which 
should  not  lie  put  in  till  the  water  Ixiils  brisk- 
ly: the  quicker  they  lioil,  the  livelier  they 
will  l>c.  When  thevcgetable<  sink,  tJley  are 
generally  done  enough,  if  tin-  water  lias  been 
kept  constantly  Ixiiliiiij.  Take  them  up  im- 
mediately, or  liny  will  lose  their  color  and 
goodness.  Drain  the  water  from  them 
thoroughly  before  you  send  them  to  table. 

This  branch  of  cookery  requires  the  most 
vigilant  alien!  ion. 

If  vegetables  are  a  minute  or  two  too  long 
over  the  (ire,  they  lose  all  their  beauty  and 
flavor. 

If  not  thoroughly  boiled  tender,  they  are 
tremendously  indigestible,  and  much  more 
troublesome  diirii.ir  their  residence  in  the 
Btomach,  than  under-done  meats. 

Once  for  all,  take  care  your  vegetables 
are  fre-h:  lor  as  the  fishmonger  often  suffers 
for  the  gins  of  tlie  rook,  so  (he  cook  often 
gets  undeservedly  blamed  instead  of  the 
green -grocer. 

Stroii.-  _ .  tables  should  be  kept 

apart;  leeks,  or  celery,  laid  among  cauli- 
flowers, kc.  will  quickly  s|x>il  them. 

Succulent  vegetables  are  best  preserved  in 
a  cool,  shady,  and  damp  plape. 

Potatoes,  turnijw,  carrots,  ami  similar 
root-;,  intended  to  U:  stored  up,  should  never 
l)e  cleaned  from  the  earth  adhering  to  them, 
till  they  are  to  be  dressed. 

They  must  be  protected  from  the  action 
of  the  air  ami  frost,  by  laving  them  in  heaps, 
l)ur\ini;  them  in  -and  or  earth,  &c.,  or  cov- 
ering them  with  str.iw  or  mats. 

When  vegetable*  are  quite  fresh  gathered, 
they  will  ii"i  require  so  much  boiling,  by  at 
least  a  third  of  the  time,  aa  wlien  they  have 
been  gathered  the  usual  time  of  those  that 
arc  brought  to  public  markets. 

Vegetables  are  always  best  wlien  newly 
gathered,  and  should  be  brought  in  from  the 
garden  early  in  the  morning;  they  will  then 
have  a  fragrant  freshnov,  which  they  lose  by 

keeping. 

Tin  \  must  be  cleaned  with  tlie  greatest 
care,  tiie  outside  leaves  of  ever)-  description 
of  greens  removed,  and  they,  and  all* other 
vegetables,  more  nrtieularK  when  not  re- 
cently gathered,  should  lie  laid  for  several 
Uotirs  in  cold  water,  and  well  shaken  to 


throw  out  the  insects.  A  ten-spoonful  of 
salt  should  always  !«•  put  into  the  water  in 
which  they  are  to  be  boiled,  and  if  it  is  hard, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  of  tartar,  or  (mtash, 
may  be  added  to  preserve  tlie  green  color  of 
the  vegetables. 

All  vegetables  should  be  boiled  quickly, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  spinach,  in  an 
open  vessel,  skimming  them  carefully. 

Kitchen  u'nrns  should  be  kept  in  a  cool 
and  shady  place.  Potatoes,  carrot?,  turnips, 
and  beet  root  should  be  stored  up,  without 
being  cleaned  from  the  earth  adhering  to 
them,  in  layers  of  sand,  or  laid  in  heaps,  and 
covered  with  earth  and  straw.  Parsnips  and 
skirrets  not  being  injured  by  frost,  are  gen- 
erally left  in  tlie  ground,  and  taken  up  aa 
wanted.  Onions  are  stored  in  a  warm,  dry 
place,  never  in  a  cellar;  they  are  sometimes 
strung  in  bunches,  and  suspended  from  the 
roof,  and,  more  effectually  to  prevent  tlieir 
growing,  some  people  select  the  finest  bulbs, 
and  singe  tlie  roots  with  a  hot  iron. 

Herbs  of  all  sorts  should  be  gatliered  when 
in  flower,  ami  on  a  dry  day,  and  being  well 
cleaned  from  dust  and  dirt,  tliey  are  tied  up 
in  small  bunches,  and  dried  before  tlie  fire  in 
a  Dutch  oven.  They  may  then  be  kept  in 
paper  bags  labelled ;  or  rubbed  to  a  powder, 
sifted,  and  put  into  bottles. 

VEGETABLE  ESSENCES.  The  fla- 
vor of  tho  various  sweet  and  savory  herbs 
may  be  obtained  by  combining  their  essen- 
tial oils  with  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  in  the 
proportion  of  one  drachm  of  the  former  to 
two  ounces  of  the  latter,  or  by  picking  the 
leaves,  and  laying  them  for  a  couple  of 
hoars  in  a  warm  place  to  dry,  and  then  fill-, 
ing  a  large-mouthed  bottle  with  them,  and! 
pouring  on  them  wine,  brandy,  proof  spirit, 
or  vinegar,  and  letting  them  steep  for  four- 
teen da\s. 

VEGETABLE  MARROW,    IB  fit  for 

use  when  about  the  size  of  a  turkey's  egg. 
After  being  washed  clean,  it  is  put  on  in 
boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt,  and  when 
tender,  it  is  drained  from  the  water,  rut  into 
half,  and  served  on  toasted  bread,  over 
which  some  melted  butter  has  been  poured. 
Or,  after  being  boiled  in  milk  and  water, 
they  may  be  fricasseed  as  Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes, or  stewed  like  cucumbers. 

VEGETABLES  STEW.  Pick  and 
wash  very  clean  as  much  spinach  as  wifl 
make  a  tlish ;  mince  finely  three  small  on- 
ions, pick  and  el  nip  two  handful*  of  parsley; 
put  all  into  a  saucepan,  with  rather  more 
than  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  a  bit  of  butter 
dusted  with  lloiir,  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
<  'i.\rr  the  pan  closely,  stir  it  now  and  then, 
and  when  the  spinach  '»  tender,  mash  it 


VEN 


238 


VEN 


smooth,  serve  it  with  slices  of  broiled  ham, 
or  with  sausages. 

VELOUTE.  Take  the  cuttings  and  re- 
mains of  any  joints  of  veal  and  fowl  you 
maj  have  in  the  house,  of  which  take  four 
pounds,  and  put  into  a  large  stewpan,  with 
some  carrots,  onions,  parsley,  scallions, 
three  I>ay-leave8,  three  cloves,  and  a  ladle- 
fol  of  stock;  put  your  stewpan  on  a  fierce 
fire,  skim  it  well,  and  take  care  that  the 
meat  docs  not  stick;  when  sufficiently  re- 
duced, add  as  much  stock  as  will  nearly  fill 
the  stewpan,  salt  it  well;  give  it  a  noil, 
skim  it,  and  then  put  it  on  the  side  of  the 
fire  to  simmer  for  two  hours;  after  which 
strain  it  through  a  tammy.  Make  a  white 
rottx,  stir  into  it  for  ten  minutes  a  few 
champignons,  then  pour  on  it,  a  little  at  a 
time,  the  ubove  liquor;  let  it  boil  up  once, 
skim  it,  and  set  it  again  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  lor  an  hour  and  a  half:  take  off  all  the 
fat,  str.iin  it  again,  and  then  out  it  by  for 
use.  Take  care  that  the  veloute  is  not  in 
the  least  colored,  as,  the  whiter  it  is  the 
better. 

VENISON.  The  choice  of  venison 
should  be  regulated  by  the  appearance  of 
the  fat,  which,  when  the  venison  is  young, 
looks  thick,  clear,  and  close;  as  it  begins 
to  change  first  towards  the  haunches,  run  a 
knife  into  that  part;  if  tainto!  \on  will 
perceive  a  rank  smell,  and  it  will  have  a 
green  or  blackish  appearance. 

If  you  wish  to  preserve  it,  you  may  by 
careful  management  and  watching,  keep  it 
fora  fortnight  by  the  following  method:  wash 
it  well  with  milk  and  water  very  clean,  and 
dry  it  pei  fectly  with  cloths  until  there  is  not 
the  Ic'a.-t  damp  remaining,  then  dust  pound- 
ed ginger  over  every  part ;  this  is  a  good 
preventive  against  the  fly.  When  to  be 
dressed,  wash  it  with  a  little  lukewarm 
water,  and  dry  it.  Pepper  should  also  be 
added  to  keep  it. 

VENISON    COLLOPS.       These  are 

dressed  in  the  same  manner  as  mince  col- 
lops  of  beef,  only  that,  in  place  of  the  sea- 
soning of  tlie  collops  of  beef,  they  have  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  some  Port  wine. 

VENISON,  HASHED.  (1)  If  yon  have 
enough  of  its  own  gravy  left,  it  is  preferable 
to  any  to  warm  it  up  in :  if  not,  take  some 
of  the  mutton  gravy,  or  the  lx>nes  and  trim- 
mings of  the  joint  (after  you  have  cut  off  all 
the  handsome  slices  you  can  to  make  the 
hash) ;  put  these  into  some  water,  and  stew 
them  gently  for  an  hour;  then  put  some  but- 
ter into  a  stewpan;  when  melted,  put  to  it 
us  much  flour  as  will  dry  up  the  butter,  and 
Btjr  it  well  together;  add  to  it  by  degrees 


tlie  gravy  yon  have  been  making  of  the  trim- 
mings, and  some  red  currant  jelly ;  give  k  a 
lioil  up;  skim  it;  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  it  is  ready  to  receive  the  venison:  put  it 
in,  and  let  it  just  get  warm:  if  you  let  it 
boil,  it  will  make  the  meat  hard. 

VENISON,  HASHED.  (2)  Warm  it 
in  its  own  gravy;  if  there  is  no  fat  left,  take 
some  slices  of  mutton  fat,  set  it  on  the  fire 
with  a  little  Port  wine  and  sugar,  and  let  it 
simmer  till  dry;  then  add  it  to  the  hash. 

VENISON,  HASHED.  (3)  Takesome 

anchovies,  boil  them  till  they  are  dissolved, 
then  add  some  oysters  with  their  liquor,  a 
little  milk,  some  red  wine,  and  a  little  ketch- 
up; put  in  your  venison,  let  it  warm  in  this, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil,  and  serve  it  with  fried 
sippets,  and  the  sauce  &c.  over  it. 

VENISON,  MOCK.  Hang  up,  for 
several  days,  a  large  fat  loin  of  mutton ;  then 
bone  it,  and  take  off  all  the  kidney  fat,  and 
the  skin  from  the  upper  fat;  mix  together 
two  ounces  of  brown  sugar,  and  one  ounce 
of  ground  black  pepper.  Rub  it  well  into 
the  mutton ;  pour  over  it  two  or  three  wine- 
glasses of  Port  wine;  keep  it  covered  with 
the  skin;  rub  and  turn  it  daily  for  five  days. 
When  to  be  roasted,  cover  it  with  the  skin, 
and  paper  it  the  same  way  as  venison  is 
dono  Aorvo  it  u-ith  made  gravy,  and  the 
same  sauces  as  for  venison. 

VENISON  PASTY.  (1)  Cut  a  neck  or 
breast  into  small  steaks,  nib  them  over  with 
a  seasoning  of  sweet  herbs,  grated  nutmeg, 
pepper,  and  salt;  fry  them  slightly  in  butter; 
line  the  sides  and  edges  of  a  dish  with  puff 
paste,  lay  in  the  steaks,  and  add  half  a  pint 
of  rich  gravy  made  with  the  trimmings  of 
the  venison ;  add  a  glass  of  Port  wine,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  or  tea-spoonful  of 
vinegar;  cover  the  dish  with  puff  paste,  and 
bake  it  nearly  two  hours;  some  more  gravy 
may  be  poured  into  the  pie  before  serving  it. 

VENISON  PASTY.  (2)  Trfke  a  neck, 
shoulder,  or  breast  of  venison,  that  has  not 
hung  too  long;  bone  them,  trim  off  all  the 
skin,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  two  inches  square, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  three 
gilla  of  Port  wine,  two  onions,  or  a  few 
eschalots  sliced;  some  pepper,  salt,  three 
blades  of  in, ice,  about  a  dozen  allspice,  and 
enough  veal  broth  to  cover  it;  put  it  over  a 
glow  fire,  and  let  it  stew  till  three  parts  done; 
put  the  trimmings  into  another  saucepan, 
cover  it  will)  water,  and  set  it  on  a  fire. 
Take  ait  the  pieces  yon  intend  for  the  pasty, 
ami  put  them  into  a  deep  dish  with  a  little 
of  their  liquor,  and  set  it  by  to  cool ;  then 
add  the  remainder  of  the  liquor  to  the  bones 


VER 


239 


VIN 


and  trimmings,  and  Ixiil  it  till  the  party  is 
ready;  then  cover  (Ire  pasty  with  paste,  orna- 
mpnt  the  top,  anil  bake  it  lor  two  houis  in  a 
slow  oven;  and  before  it  is  sent  to  table, 
pour  in  a  ,-ance  inadi;  with  tl>e  giavy  tlie^ 
venison  was  slewed  in,  strained  and  skimmed 
free  from  fat;  some  pepper,  salt,  half  a  gill 
of  Port,  (In-  juice  oflialf  a  lemon,  and  a  little 
flour  and  butler  to  tliirken  it. 

\IMS()\    FIE    OR    PASTY.     All 

kinds  of  UK  MI  intended  t'  »  pies  and  pasties 
must  lie  highly  spiced  when  served  hot,  and 
still  more  highly  spiced  when  served  cold;  | 
but  the  seasoning  must  be  regulated  by  judg- 
ment and  taste.  Take  one  or  two  breasts 
of  venison,  (.iccording  to  the  size  you  wish 
to  make  your  pie  or  pa-ty  ),  bone  it  thorough- 
ly, l>cai  it  v-  i\  lint,  aiul  lard  it  through  and 
through  with  lardona,  well  seasoned  witli  all 
sorts  of  spires,  an«I  svv  eet  hell  is  finely  chop- 
ped; roll  it  up  as  tight  as  possible,  and  tie 
it  up  w  ilh  strong  twine.  Put  into  a  stewpan 
the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  venison,  w  ith 
can  of.-.  .-|,,ve  of  gai  li.-, 

thyme,  bay  -leaf,  |jep|»'i  -corns,  and  allspice, 
and  let  all  >tcvi  till  nearl\  dry  ;  fill  it  up  with 
equal  qua  nl!  lie-  ol  '  I  «•»•!'  .  >i  •  mutton  biaise,  and 
water,  which  !e'  l...il  very  gently  till  done, 
then  put  in  the  roll  i>f  vm-i>n  ;  put  paper  on 
tlie  top,  cover  veiy  clo.-c,  and  let  it  Mew 
gently  with  (ire  over  and  under.  When 
sufficiently  done,  take  it  off  the  lire,  and  lei 
it  stand  in  tlie  liquor  until  neailv  cold;  then 
pre|>are  a  plain  paste  of  lour  pounds  of  lloni  to 
one  pound  of  butter,  the  same  as  for  i 
pie,  but  instead  of  making  it  stiff,  mix  it  as 
soft  as  possible;  lay  part  of  this  paste  as 
thick  as  yon  well  can  round  the  edge  of  the 
dish;  cut  off  the.  twine  from  tlie  venison, 
ckin,  and  lay  it  in  tlie  dish,  and  pour  - 
of  the  gravy  it  h;ui  stewed  in;  put  on  the 
cover,  trim  it  very  neatly,  make  a  hole  in 
the  top,  do  it  over  with  egg,  and  bake  it  in 
a  moderate  oven  fir  three  or  four  honis; 
reduce  tlie  remainder  of  the  liquor  it  waa 
slewed  in,  and  when  the  pie  is  baked,  |>onr 
it  in;  serve  it  cold.  The  pasty  can  scarcely 
be  made  too  thick. 

VERMICELLI,  QUEEN'S  Blanch 
•bout  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  vermicelli  in 
boiling  water,  drain  it,  and  throw  it  into 
Rome  rich  well-eeaaoncd  stock  ;  when  lender, 
take  it  out  of  the  soup,  ami  put  it  into  the 
tureen;  thicken  the  sonp  with  eight  well- 
beaten  e-;<,  mixed  with  half  a  pint  of  cream. 
ami  pour  it,  wlwa  ij'iite  hot,  upon  the  \»- 


V  HUM  l<  T.I.LI  IN  MILK.  Boil  the 
quantity  ol  milk  yon  may  require,  and  put 
into  it  half  a  pound  of  vermicelli  peeled,  and 
•  sufficient  quantity  of  sugar  ;  stir  it  frequent- 


ly that  the  vermicelli  may  not  form  a  paste: 
half  an  hour  will  be  long  enough  to  boil  it. 
A  little  almond  milk  may  be  added  when 
ready  for  table. 

VERMICELLI  PUDDING.     (1)  Boil 

a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  vermicelli  with  a 
little  cinnamon,  in  a  quart  of  milk;  in  the 
meantime  mix  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  melt- 
ed butter  w  ith  a  pint  of  cream,  and  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs;  pour  in  the  vermicelli  when 
quite  soft ;  add  a  little  flour  and  lieef  mar- 
row, and  powder  sugar  to  the  taste ;  beat  alt 
up  for  half  an  hour,  tie  it  in  a  Homed  cloth, 
and  boil  it. 

/VERMICELLI  PUDDING.     (2)  Boil 

four  ounces  of  vermicelli  in  a  pint  of  new 
milk,  until  quite  tender,  with  a  stick  or  two 
of  cinnamon.  Then  add  half  a  pint  of  thick 
cream,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a 
quarter  ol  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs,  thoroughly  beaten;  lay  the 
above  in  a  dish  and  bake. 

VERMICELLI  SOUP.  Take  as  much 
good  stock  as  yon  require  for  your  tureen, 
strain,  and  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  it 
boils,  put  in  the  vermicelli,  and  let  it  simmer 
for  half  an  hour  by  a  .-low  tire,  that  tlie  ver- 
micelli may  not  IIIIIM;  the  soup  ought  not  to 
l>e  \e.  \  iliirk.  Half  a  pound  is  sufficient 
for  eight  or  ten  persons. 

VINEGAR.  Thisisan  acid  liquor.pre- 
pared  by  a  second  fermentation  from  various 
liquois.  such  as  wine,  cider,  perry,  beer, 
mead,  skimmed  milk,  &c.  But  tin;  most 
common  method  of  making  it,  in  England, 
is  from  malt,  and  the  process  is  as  follows: — 
infuse  a  quantity  of  malt  in  hot  water  for  an 
hour  and  a  half,  then  pour  it  into  a  cooler. 
Aa  Koon  as  the  infusion  is  sufficiently  cold, 
put  it  into  deep  tuns,  add  yeast  to  it,  and 
leave  it  to  ferment  for  lour  or  five  days ;  after 
which  put  the  liquor  into  barrels,  in  a  room 
healed  w  ith  stoves,  so  that  a  moderate  warmth 
may  be  kept  up  for  six  weeks,  and  the  fer- 
mentation continue  regularly.  By  tlie  end 
of  that  time  the  whole  will  be  completely 
."onred.  am!  must  now  be  changed  into  other 
barrels;  lay  a  tile  on  tlie  bung-holes  to  keep 
out  tlie  wet,  but  not  so  do-e  as  to  prevent  a 
free  circulation  of  air,  and  then  place  them 
in  (he  open  air  for  four  or  five  months,  ac- 
cording as  the  weatlieris  warmorotlierwise; 
during  the  whole  of  this  period,  the  fermenta- 
tion proceeds,  and  at  tlie  end,  the  vinegar  is 
nearlv  done.  The  next  operation  is  this:  the 
vinegar  is  poured  into  large  vessels,  called 
rapetuns,  to  which  tliere  are  false  bottoms  cov- 
ered with  rape,  that  is,  the  refuse  of  raisins, 
or  oilier  fruit,  from  which  wine  has  been 
made;  fill  one  of  these  tuns  entirely  with 


VIN 


240 


VIN 


the  vinegar,  and  another  about  tliree-fourtlis 
full,  and  every  day  take  a  portion  of  the 
liquor  out  of  the  fullest  barrel,  and  put  it  into 
the  other,  until  the  vineg:ir  is  in  a  lit  stale  to 
be  drawn  off;  when  it  must  be  closely  bar- 
relled. 

Vinegar  may  also  he  made  in  much  smaller 
quantities  for  domestic  purposes;  (lie  mate- 
rials of  various  kinds,  with  the  addition  of 
sugar;  raisins,  currants,  and  ripe  goose- 
berries, however,  are  the  principal ;  some- 
times it  is  made  from  brown  sugar,  and  wa- 
ter alone.  The  proportions  are  the  same  as 
those  necessary  for  strong  wine;  make  the 
barrel  about  three-fourths  full,  add  a  toast 
covered  with  yeast,  put  in  the  bung  very 
loosely,  and  place  the  barrel  where  it  will 
be  exposed  to  the  sun,  or,  if  it  be  winter, 
near  the  fire.  The  fermentation  should  be 
moderate  and  constant  till  the  vinegar  is 
complete ;  then  draw  it  off  clear,  give  it  a 
boil,  and  when  quite  cold,  strain  and  bottle 
it. 

Vinegar  is  obtained  from  wine,  by  mixing 
with  the  latter  its  own  dowers,  or  ferment, 
and  its  tartar  reduced  to  powder,  and  put 
into  a  vinegar  or  any  other  cask ;  if  the 
latter,  it  must  be  placed  in  a  warm  situation, 
full  (if  the  steam  from  vinegar;  in  either  case 
the  liquor  should  lie  stirred  frequently ;  the 
second  fermentation  will  s|>eedily  commence; 
it  will  become  heated,  and  turn  acid  by  de- 
grees, and  in  a  short  time  the  vinegar  will 
be  produced. 

It  is  commonly  supposed  that  wine  which 
has  become  acid,  will  produce  excellent  vin- 
egar ;  this,  however,  is  a  mistaken  idea,  for 
die  stronger  and  better  the  quality  of  the 
wine,  the  stronger  and  better  will  be  the 
vinegar. 

The  French  have  several  methods  of  mak- 
ing vinegar,  which  are  subjoined. 

Tlie  vinegar  makers  of  Orleans  pour  the 
wine,  of  which  they  intend  to  make  their 
vinegar,  into  casks,  at  the  bottoms  of  which 
are  close  gratings  of  lime  twigs;  these  serve 
to  clarify  the  wine,  as  the  lees  adhering  to 
the  twigs,  leave  the  liquor  perfectly  clear. 
They  then  procure  a  number  of  casks,  each 
containing  a  hundred  gallons,  either  new  or 
which  have  previously  contained  vinegar; 
these  are  set  upright,  and  in  the  top  of  every 
one  is  bored  a  hole,  two  inches  in  diameter, 
these  are  kept  constantly  open :  tlie  last  men- 
tioned casks  are  called  Mothers;  pour  into 
all  of  them  twenty-live  gallons  of  boiling 
vinegar;  to  this,  in  a  week's  time,  add 
three  gallons  of  wine,  drawn  from  tlte  first 
mentioned  casks;  continue  to  add  tlsc  -.vine, 
at  intervals  of  a  week,  until  the  Mothers 
are  quite  full ;  then  leave  them  for  a  fortnight, 
and  at  the  end  of  which  period  they  generally 
draw  off  the  vinegar,  taking  care  always  to 
leave  the  Mothers  half  full,  at  least,  and 


then  to  fill  them  with  wine  as  before.  The 
method  of  proving  when  the  vinegar  is  fit  for 
use,  is,  by  plunging  a  stave  into  it;  if  on 
taking  it  out,  a  white  line  is  (XTceptible  on 
the  end  of  it,  the  vinegar  is  quite  ready. 
The  place  where  the  casks  are  kept  should 
be  very  airy,  and  in  the  winter  lime,  by 
means  of  stoves  tlie  temperature  should  be 
raised  to  eighteen  degrees  of  Reaumur. 

Paris  vinegar  varies  from  the  above,  and 
the  process  is  veiy  simple.  A  large  quantity 
of  wine  lees  is  put  into  coarse  sacks,  and 
laid  in  tubs,  which  are  placed  one  upon  an- 
other to  form  a  kind  of  press;  by  means  of 
a  screw,  every  drop  of  wine  is  gradually 
squeezed  from  the  lees ;  thisoperat ion  cannot 
U-  |XTlormc<l  in  less  time  than  a  \\cck.  The 
wine  thus  extracted  is  put  into  casks;  in 
the  headings  a  hole  is  made,  as  above,  which 
holes  are  left  constantly  open;  in  summer 
time  the  casks  so  filled  are  placed  in  the  sun, 
and,  generally  speaking,  the  vinegar  is  fit 
for  use  in  a  fortniglrt.  In  the  winter,  tlie 
fermentation  will  last  double  the  time,  and 
must  be  assisted  by  artificial  warmth.  It 
sometimes  happens  that  the  liquor  heats  to 
so  great  a  degree  that  tlie  hand  cannot  be 
borne  in  it ;  in  this  case,  the  progress  of 
the  fermentation  must  be  checked  by  adding 
more  wine,  until  it  proceeds  more  regularly. 
When  the  vinegar  is  made,  put  it  into  casks, 
which  have  the  beech  twigs  at  the  bottom, 
as  above  mentioned;  let  it  remain  a  fort- 
night, by  which  time  it  will  lie  sufficiently 
fermented  to  draw  off  into  the  casks  for 
keeping  it. 

Another  very  simple  method  is  also  prac- 
tLed  in  France;  a  few  quarts  are  drawn 
from  a  barrel  of  excellent  vinegar,  and  an 
equal  quantity  of  very  clear  white  wine  is 
put  into  the  barrel,  close  the  bung  lightly, 
and  keep  it  in  a  place  where  the  heat  is 
moderate  and  regular.  In  a  month's  time 
draw  off  the  same  quantity  as  alxjve,  and 
pour  in  an  equal  portion  of  white  wine.  A 
barrel  of  good  vinegar  will  thus  afford  a 
constant  supply  for  a  length  of  time  without 
leaving  the  slightest  deposit. 

A  cask  which  has  not  contained  vinegar 
before,  should  have  a  quart  of  boiling  hot 
vinegar  poured  into  it,  shaken  till  cold,  and 
allowed  to  stand  for  some  hours. 

VINEGAR,  BASIL.  Sweet  basil  is  in 
full  perfection  about  the  middle  of  August. 
Fill  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  with  the  fresh 
green  leaves  of  basil  (these  give  much  finer 
and  more  flavor  than  tlie  dried,)  and  cover 
:!i.  .M  with  vinegar,  or  wine,  and  let  them 
steep  for  ten  days:  if  yon  wish  a  very  strong 
essence,  strain  the  liquor,  put  it  on  some 
fresh  leaves,  and  let  them  steep  fourteen  days 
more. 

Obs. — This  U  a  very  agreeable  addition 


VIN 


241 


VIN 


to  sauces,  soups,  and  to  die  mixture  usually 
made  fur  salads. 

It  is  a  secret  the  makers  of  inock  turtle 

may  tliank  us  for  telling;  a  table-spoonful 
put"  in  when  the  soup  is  finished  will  impreg- 
nate a  tureen  of  soup  with  the  basil  aod  acid 
flavors,  at  very  -mall  cost,  when  fresh  basil 
and  lemons  art:  extravagantly  dear. 

The  flavor  of  the  other  sweet  and  savory 
herbs,  celery,  &<:.  uiay  be  procured,  and  pre- 
served in  the  -a.ne.  manner  by  infusing  them 
in  wine  or  \  ine^ar. 

VINEGAR,  AMERICAN.  Boil  six 
gallons  of  water,  and  add,  while  it  is  hot, 
four  quarts  of  molasses ;  put  it  into  a  tub  to 
cool;  when  milk  warm,  stir  in  a  pint  of 
i-t ;  put  it  into  the  cask,  and  set  it 
by  the  lire  lor  twenty-fair  hours;  then  put 
it  in  ilx'  sun,  uiih  a  bottle  in  the  bong-hole. 
Botlle  it  three  months  afterwards. 

VINEGAR,  m'RNET  OR  CUCUM- 
BER. This  is  made  in  precisely  lli  •  .-ame 
manner  as  dint-ted  alxive.  The  flavor  of 
buriK-l  resembles  cucumber  so  exactly,  that 
when  infused  in  vinegar,  the  nicest  palate 

would   prom <•<•   it  to  Ix-  cucimiljcr.      This 

is  a  \eiy  favorite  relish  with  cold  meat,  sal- 
ads, &c, 

VINE:;\i;.  C\MP.     Cayenne  pepper, 

one  (irachin,  avohdnjxiis  weight.  Soy,  two 
tahle-^ponnfuls.  Walnut  krti-hnp,  four  ditto. 
Six  anchovies  ehop|x-d.  A  small  <-|o\c  of 
garlic,  minrrd  line.  Steep  all  for  a  month 
in  a  pint  of  lln-  IK-SI  vinegar,  frequently  shak- 
ing tin-  linllli-:  strain  through  it  tamis,  and 
keep  ii  in  small  bottles,  corked  as  tightly  as 
ptMBibie. 

\  [NEC  \i:.  CHILI.     This  'a  commonly 

made  uiih  tlii-  foreign  bird  pepper;   but  you 
will  obtain  ,i  mrirh  liner  flavor  from  inlhsing 
n-d  English  Chilies  (cut  in  half,  or 
pounded)  in  a  pint  of  the  Ix-sl  vin. 

.  or  ;i  (jiiai  tel  of  an  ounce  of  «  avenue 
|H-ppcr.  Many  people  caniiot  eat  (i>ll  with- 
out the  addition  of  an  acid  unit  cayenne 
pep|x-r:  to  -:i.-li  palates  this  will  be  an 
agreeable'  relish 

.  \II,  CRESS.     Dry  and  pound 
hall  an  ounce  of  cress-M-cd  (such  as  is  sown 

VM  with  mn-lard,)  |XMir  ii|>  .a  il  a 
«)ii:ut   of  i  IK-   I . 

tiavs.  >li.<Uin;r  it  up  evei  y  il.iy.      'I'. 
strongly  ll.ivon.tl  with  cn-.-s;   and  I 

meals,  &c.   it  is  u  great  favorite 
v\ith  many . 

Celery    vinegar    is    made    in    the   same 

Vl\Ei;\|{,  ELDER  FLOWER  AND 
21 


TARRAGON.  Fill  a  quart  bottle  with 
llie  flowers  of  elder,  or  the  leaves  of  tarragon, 
when  it  is  in  flower;  pour  vinegar  upon 
t'«eni,  and  let  them  infuse  for  a  fortnight; 
then  strain  it  through  a  flannel  bag,  and  put 
it  into  small  bottles.  By  the  same  meaiiv, 
vinegar  may  be  flavored  with  the  fresh  gath- 
ered leaves  of  any  sweet  herb. 

VINEGAR,  GARLIC.     Cut  small  one 

ounce  and  a  half  of  garlic,  bruise  one  nutmeg 
and  diree  cloves,  steep  them  in  a  quart  of 
vinegar  for  a  week,  shaking  it  daily ;  then 
strain  and  bottle  it.  Shallot  vinegar  is  made 
in  the  same  manner. 

VINEGAR,  GOOSEBERRY.  Gather 
yellow  gooseberries  when  quite  ripe,  crush 
and  mash  them  well  in  a  tub  with  a  large 
wooden  pestle;  to  every  two  gallons  of 
gooseberries,  after  being  mashed,  put  two  of 
water;  mix  them  well  together;  let  it  work 
for  three  weeks,  stirring  the  ma.-s  two  or 
three  times  each  day;  then  strain  the  liquor 
through  a  hair  sieve,  and  put  to  every  gallon 
one  pound  of  brown  sugar,  one  pound  of 
treacle,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  fresh  yeast; 
let  it  work  lor  three  or  four  days  in  the  same 
tub,  which  has  l>een  well  wasln*! ;  then  run 
it  into  iron-hooped  casks.  Let  it  stand 
twelve  months,  and  bottle  it  for  use.  This 
is  a  very  strong  vinegar. 

VINEGAR,  HONEY.  Half  a  pound 
of  honey  must  be  put  to  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter, and  the  honey  well  dissolved.  This 
mixture  is  then  exposed  to  tlie  greatest  heat 
of  (he  Min,  without  closing  wholly  tlie  bung- 
hole  of  the  c;isk,  which  must  be  merely  cover- 
ed with  coarse  linen,  to  prevent  the  admission 
of  insects.  In  alxmt  six  weeks,  the  liquor 
becomes  acid,  and  changes  to  a  very  strong 
vinegar,  and  of  excellent  quality. 

VINEGAR,  HORSERADISH.  Horw- 

radish  is  in  highest  perfection  about  Novem- 
ber. Four  a  quart  of  best  vinegar  on  threw 
ounces  of  sciajx-d  horseradish,  an  ounce  of 
rninced  eschalot,  and  one  drachm  of  cay- 
enne; let  il  stand  a  week,  and  vou  «  ill  have 
an  excellent  relish  fur  cold  beef,  salads,  &c. 
costing  scarcely  any  thing.  A  portion  of 
black  pepper  and  miistaid.  celery  or  crett- 
seed,  may  be  added  to  the  above. 

VINEGAR,  RASPBERRY.  The  best 
way  to  make  this,  is  to  pour  three  pints  of 
the  best  white  wine  vinegar  on  a  pint  and  a 
half  uf  fresh-gatliered  ted  rasplierries  in  a 
stone  jar,  or  china  bowl  (neither  glazed 
earthfimat'e,  nor  any  metallic  vessel,  must 
lie  used ; )  the  next  day  strain  the  liquor  over 
a  like  q-iantity  of  fresh  raspberries ;  and  the 
day  following  do  the  same.  Then  drain  off 


VOL 


242 


WAF 


the  liquor  without  pressing,  and  pass  it 
through  a  jelly-bag  (previously  wetted  with 
plain  vinegar)  into  a  stone  jar,  with  a  pound 
of  pounded  lump  sugar  to  e.ieh  pint.  When 
the  sugar  is  dissolved,  stir  il  up,  cover  down 
the  jar,  and  set  it  in  a  saucepan1  of  water, 
and  keep  boiling  for  an  hour,  taking  off  the 
scum;  add  to  each  pint  a  glass  of  brandy, 
and  IxUlle  it:  mixed  in  about  eight  parts  of 
water,  it  is  a  very  refreshing  and  delightful 
summer  drink.  An  excellent  cooling  bever- 
age to  assuage  thirst  in  ardent  fevers,  colds, 
and  inflammatory  complaints,  &c.  and  is 
agreeable  to  most  palates. 

VINEGAR  FOR  SALADS.    Take  of 

tarragon,  savory,  chives,  eschalots,  three 
ounces  each;  a  handt'il  of  the  tops  of  mint 
and  balm,  all  dry  and  pounded;  put  into  a 
wide-mouthed  liottle,  widi  a  gallon  of  best 
vinegar;  cork  it  close,  set  it  in  the  sun,  and 
in  a  fortnight  strain  off,  and  squeeze  the 
herbs ;  let  it  stand  a  day  to  settle,  and  then 
strain  it  through  a  filtering  bag. 

VOL-AU-VENT.  (1)  Cut  some  cold 
tin-key  or  veal  into  small  thin  slices,  season 
it  with  dried  lemon-peel  grated,  pepper, 
pounded  mace,  and  salt ;  add  one  anchovy, 
some  garlic  and  onion  pounded,  also  a  little 
good  gravy,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon  pickle, 
one  of  white  wine,  and  an  ounce  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour;  then  make  it  <)uite  hot,  but 
do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  and  serve  it  in  the 
prepared  vol-au-vent.  The  gravy  may  l>e 
made  with  the  bones,  or  a  little  cream,  and 
the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  may  be  substituted 
for  the  cream. 

VOL-AU-VENT.  (2)  In  opening  the 
oysters,  separate  them  from  the  liquor,  which 
must  be  strained ;  take  off  the  beards,  and 
add  to  them  the  liquor,  together  with  some 
white  stock,  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
two  or  three  blades  of  mace,  a  bit  of  lemon- 
peel,  pepper,  and  salt ;  simmer  them  for  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes,  and  a  little  before  putting 
them  into  tlie  vol-au-vent,  pick  out  the  lemon- 
|>eel,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  white  wine,  and 
three  of  good  cream,  and  make  it  quite  hot. 
To  make  oyster  patties,  when  they  are  to  be 
bearded,  cut  them  into  three  or  four  bits, 
and  prepare  them  in  the  same  manner. 

VOL-AU-VENT.  (3)  Roll  off  tart  paste, 
till  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  thick:  then, 
with  a  tin  cutler  made  for  that  purpose 
(about  the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the  did)  you 
intend  sending  to  table,)  cut  out  the  shape, 
and  lay  it  on  a  baking-plate  with  paper; 
rub  it  over  with  yolk  of  egg ;  roll  out  good 
puff  paste  an  inch  thick,  stamp  it  with  the 
same  cutter,  and  lay  il  on  the  tart  paste; 
then  take  a  cutter  two  sizes  smaller,  and 


press  it  in  the  centre  nearly  through  the  puff" 
paste;  rub  the  top  with  yolk  ot  egg,  and 
bake  it  in  a  quick  oven  about  twenty  minutes, 
of  a  light  brown  color:  when  done,  take  out 
the  paste  inside  the  centre  mark,  preserving 
the  top,  put  it  on  a  dish  in  a  warm  place, 
and  when  wanted,  fill  it  with  a  white  frica- 
see  of  chicken,  rabbit,  ragout  of  sweetbread, 
or  any  other  entree  you  wish. 

VOLDRON .  Melt  eleven  ounces  of  fresh 
butter  in  a  brass  pan,  and  when  quite  hot, 
add  tlie  same  quantity  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
and  eight  well-beaten  eggs;  stir  constantly 
for  six  or  eight  minutes,  and  [Hit  it  into  a 
dish;  the  following  day,  mix  with  it  a  nine 
glass  of  orange- flower  water;  of  citron, 
orange,  and  lemon-peel,  cut  fine,  half  a 
pound;  butter  a  pudding  dish,  and  lay  into 
the  bottom  a  sheet  of  white  pa|>er  buttered, 
then  put  in  the  voldron,  and  bake  it  for 
twenty  minutes;  turn  it  out,  ornament  it 
with  cut  citron  and  orange-peel,  and  serve 
it  in  a  silver  or  glass  dish. 


W. 

WAFERS.  Take  a  pint  of  good  cream, 
half  a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
powder  sugar,  and  two  drachms  of  orange- 
flower  water.  Beat  the  cream  with  the 
flour,  a  little  at  a  time,  until  both  are  mixed 
perfectly  smooth  and  free  from  lumps,  tlien 
add  the  other  articles;  and  as  much  more 
creain  as  will  make  the  paste  nearly  us  thin 
as  milk ;  make  the  iron  hot,  dip  a  leather  in 
si  line  melted  butter,  and  rub  the  iron  over 
with  it;  put  on  die  iron  about  a  spoonful 
and  a  half  of  the  paste,  press  them  a  little 
gently,  and  place  the  iron  on  a  stove;  open 
the  iron  a  little  frequently,  to  see  if  it  be 
done;  when  one  side  is  baked,  turn  the  iron, 
and  do  the  other.  The  wafers  should  only 
be  lightly  colored.  Take  them  from  the 
mould  carefully  with  a  knife. 

* 

WAFERS,  GERMAN.  Take  seven- 
teen ounces  of  sifted  flour,  and  half  a  pint  of 
good  yeast,  which  make  into  a  paste,  with 
as  much  warm  milk  as  will  malic  it  run  from 
the  spoon  freely,  without  being  too  clear; 
then  put  it  into  a  warm  place.  When  it  has 
risen  well,  add  to  it  the  yolks  of  fourteen 
eggs  well  beaten,  the  whites  whipped  to  a 
snow,  and  the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons. 
The  whole  being  well  mixed,  pour  over  it 
seventeen  ounces  of  fresh  butter  melted,  but 
not  too  hot;  stir  it  gently  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  put  tlie  preparation  again  into  a 
warm  place  to  rise  a  second  time;  when  it 
lias  risen  sufficiently,  and  your  pan  quite  hot, 
rub  tlie  latter  with  butter,  fill  it  with  the 


WAL 


243 


WAL 


paste,  set  it  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  fry  your 
wafers;  make  Ixnh  sides  equally  brown; 
when  dune,  sprinkle  them  with  powder  >HL;  u 
(and  cinnamon,  if  you  like),  and  serve  them 
hot.  Be  c.irefnl  in  tuking  out  the  paste  to 
fill  the  |wn,  not  to  disturb,  nor  to  plunge  the 
spoon  into  tlie  preparation,  when  not  nsiii^ 
it;  the  upper  jiart  nf  the  pasie  should  be 
taken  off  very  gently,  and  the  spoon  laiil 
across  the  top  of  the  vessel ;  if  these  precau- 
tions be  not  attended  to,  the  good  appear- 
ance of  the  wafers  will  be  destroyed. 

\\-\\ T.KS,  ITALIAN.  Take  eight 
eggs,  toiirteen  ounces  of  powder  sugar,  a 
pound  of  Hour,  six  ounces  of  cream,  th<- 
of  milk,  an  ounce  of  oramj-  (lowers,  and  the 
rind  of  a  lemon  Dialed.  Heat  tlie  eggs  with 
the  sugar  and  (lour  first ;  then  add  the  cream, 
milk,  and  oilier  materials,  by  degrees;  mix 
them  well,  and  take  eare  there  are  not  the 
slightest  liiui|)s.  Make  the  wafers  ;ui  di- 
rected. 

WAI.MTS.  Make  a  brine  of  salt  and 
.  in  ilie  |)ro|N)rii,in  of  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  salt  to  a  quart  of  waler;  put  tlie 
walmits  into  this  to  soak  for  a  week;  or  if 
you  wish  to  soften  them  so  that  they  may 
be  soon  ready  for  rating,  run  a  larding 
pin  through  tiiem  in  half  a  il.ixen  [/laces — 
this  will  allow  the  pickle  to  [jcnetnile,  and 
they  will  be  mn:-h  softer,  and  of  better  (la 
vor,  and  ready  much  sooner  than  if  not  per- 
!:  |)iit  them  iu|.>  a  stewpan  with  such 
brine,  and  '.'hi-  r  -imrncr ;  put 

them  0:1  i  -'n.\e  to  drain;  then  lav  them  <"i 
a  !i-li  plate.  and  lei  them  stand  ill  the  ail  till 
they  turn  Mack — this  nriy  take  a  couple  of 
days;  put  them  into  sjla.-s,  or  nn^la/.' 
jais;  (ill  tlicse  alxnit  three  |>arts  with  die 
walnuts,  and  (ill  them  up  with  the  following 
pickle. 

a  quart  of  tlie  strongest  vinegnr  put 
two  ounces  of  black  (wpper,  one  of  ginger, 
Kime  of  eschalots,  same  of  salt,  half  a  i 
of  allspice,  and  half  a  draehm  of  c a 
J'ut  these  into  a  stone  jar;  cover  it  with  a 
bladder,  welted  with  iiickle,  tie  o\cr  that 
some  Icatlter,  and  set  (lie  jar  on  a  trivet  I  A 
the  sirle  of  | he  fire  lor  three  days,  shaking  it 
up  three  limes  a  day,  and  then  pour  it  while 
hot  to  tlie  walnuts,  and  co\er  them  down  with 
bladder  welted  with  the  pickle,  leather,  &c. 

\V\I.\UTS  A\I)  BUTTERMTS. 
Gather  them  fcr  pickling  when  tlie  head  of 
a  pin  will  pierce  them  easily;  run  a  lat  ,.- 
needle  through  them  here  and  there,  or  score 

tin-in  on  one  side  with    a    knife;    lay  them 
into  a    brine  of  salt-and-water    lor  "  i 
days,  changing  the  brine  twice  in  that  time; 
strain,  and  put  lliem  into  a  jar,  and  sprinkle 
a  little  silt  over  them.     Boil  four  qua 


vinegar  for  a  hundred  walnuts,  allowing  to 
each  quart  one  ounce  of  whole  pepper,  and 
one  of  ginger,  half  an  ounce  each  of  sliced 
nutmeg  and  whole  allspice,  a  table-spoonful 
of  mustard  seed,  and  one  of  scraped  horse- 
radish, one  head  of  garlic,  or  a  small  onion; 
|»ur  it  boiling  hot  over  the  nuts,  and  put  a 
plate  on  die  jar;  when  cold,  tie  it  closely 
down.  After  the  nuts  are  used,  the  liquor 
may  be  boiled,  strained,  and  bottled,  to  use 
as  a  pickle. 

WALNUT  KETCHUP.  (1)  Thorough- 
ly well  bruise  one  hundred  and  twenty  young 
walnuts;  put  to  them  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  salt,  and  a  quart  of  good  wine  vin- 
egar; stir  them  every  day  for  a  fortnight; 
then  strain  and  squeeze  the  liquor  from  them 
throtiji  a  cloth,  and  set  it  aside;  put  to  the 
husks  half  a  pint  of  vinegar,  and  let  it  stand 
:  then  strain  and  squeeze  them  as 
.din;,'  the  liq.ior  which  is  obtained 
from  them  to  what  was  put  aside  the  preced- 
ing day,  and  add  lo  it  one  ounce  and  a 
I"  whole  black  pepper,  forty  cloves, 
half  an  ounce  of  nutmegs  bruised,  or  sliced, 
hail"  an  ounce  of  ginger,  and  five  di  -acinus  of 
mace,  and  Ixiil  it  tor  half  an  hour;  tlien 
slrain  it  off  from  the  spices,  and  boltle  it  for 
use. 

W  \LNUT  KETCHUP.  (2)  Take  six 

-  of  green  walnut-shells,  put  them 
into  a  tub,  mix  them  up  well  with  common 
salt,  (from  two  to  three  pounds.)  let  them 
stand  lor  six  day-.  fie|iiently  biding  and 
mashing  them;  by  this  time  the  shells  be- 
1  pulpy;  then  by  banking  it  up 
on  laie  side  of  the  tub,  anil  at  the  same  liiiiv 
by  raising  the  tub  on  that  side,  the  liquor 

]  will  drain  clear  off  to  tin-  other;  then  take 
that  liquor  out:  the 'mashing  and  bunking- 
up  may  be  repeated  as  often  as  liquor  is 
found.  The  quantity  will  be  about  six 
quarts.  When  done,  let  it  be  simmered  in 
an  iron  boiler  as  long  as  any  scum  arises; 
then  Imiise  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ginger,  a 
quarter  of  a  [xnmd  of  allspice,  two  ounces  of 
long  [Helper,  two  ounces  of  cloves,  with  ihe 

;  above  ingredients;  let  ii  si  .wlv  boil  lor  half 
an  hour;  when  bottled,  let  an  equal  quantity 

'  of  tlie  spice  go  into  each  boltle ;  when  cork- 
ed, let  the  bottles  I*  filk.il  quite  up:  cork 
[ii'-iii  tight,  seal  them  over,  and  put  tliem 
into  a  cool  and  dry  place  for  one  year  before 

|  they  are  used. 

WALNUT  KETCHUP,  FOR   FISH 

SAUCE.  Take  a  quart  of  walnut  pickle, 
add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  anchovies 
and  ihree-qnaiters  of  a  pint  of  red  Port,  and 
let  it  boil  till  reduced  to  one-third;  then 
strain  it,  and  when  cold,  put  it  into  small 
Untie.-,  and  keep  them  closely  corked. 


WEL 


244 


WHI 


WALN  UT  PICKLE.  Put  any  quanti- 
ty of  the  outside  shells  or  green  rinds  of 
ripe  walnuts  into  a  tub  in  which  there  is  a 
tap-hole;  sprinkle  them  with  water,  raise 
the  tub  on  one  side,  that  it  may  stand  in  a 
sloping  direction,  place  another  vessel  under 
it  to  receive  the  juice  as  it  drops  from  the 
tap-hole;  this  it  will  soon  begin  to  do;  and, 
when  a  sufficient  quantity  has  been  obtained, 
to  one  gallon  of  this  black  liquor  add  two 
large  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  one  large  onion, 
a  stick  of  horseradish,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  two  bay  leaves,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  black  pepper,  the  same  of  allspice  and  of 
bruised  ginger.  Boil  it  slowly  for  twenty 
minutes;  strain  it,  and,  when  cold,  slir  it 
and  bottle  it  for  use,  putting  the  spice  into 
the  bottles. 

WALNUTS,  TO  PICKLE.  Gather 
the  nuts  before  the  inside  shell  is  hard,  which 
may  be  known  by  trying  them  with  a  pin; 
Jay  them  into  salt  and  water  nine  days, 
changing  the  liquor  every  three  days;  then 
take  them  out,  and  dry  them  in  the  air  on  a 
sieve  or  mat;  they  should  not  touch  each 
other,  and  they  should  be  turned,  that  every 
side  may  become  black  alike;  then  put 
(hem  into  a  jar.  When  half  the  nuts  are 
in,  put  in  an  onion,  with  about  thirty  cloves 
stuck  into  it.  and  add  the  rest  of  the  nuts. 
To  one  hundred  walnuts  allow  half  a  pint 
of  mustard  seed,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
mace,  half  an  ounce  of  peppercorns,  and 
sixty  bay  leaves;  boil  all  the  spice  in  some 
good  common  vinegar,  and  pour  it  boiling 
upon  the  nuts,  observing  that  they  are  en- 
tirely covered ;  stop  the  mouth  of  the  jar 
with  a  cloth,  and  when  cold,  cover  it  with 
bladder  or  leather.  In  about  six  weeks 
they  will  be  fit  for  use,  when  they  should  lie 
examined,  and  if  they  have  absorbed  the 
vinegar  so  much  as  to  leave  any  of  the  nuts 
dry,  more  should  be  added,  but  it  need  not 
be  boiled. 

WATER  SOUCHY.  Make  a  stock 
with  three  or  four  flounders,  boiled  in  three 
quarts  of  water,  two  onions,  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  till  they  are  soft  enough  to  pulp 
through  a  sieve  with  tlie  liquor  they  were 
boiled  in;  then  season  it  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  some  parsley  chopped,  and  boil  in  it  a 
few  flounders,  with  the  brown  skin  taken 
off,  some  nicely  cleaned  perch  or  tench. 
Serve  in  a  tureen,  and  with  slices  of  bread 
and  butter  to  eat  with  it. 

\VELSH  RABBIT.  Pare  the  crust  off 
a  slice  of  bread,  toast  it  nicely,  divide  it  in 
two,  butter  it,  and  lay  upon  each  half  a  thin 
slice  of  cheese  which  has  been  toasted  in  a 
Dutch  oven ;  if,  when  put  upon  the  toast,  it 
is  not  sufficiently  browned,  hold  a  salaman- 


der, or  hot  shovel,  over  the  top.     Serve  it 
very  hot. 

WHEY.  (1)  Make  a  pint  of  milk  boil; 
put  to  it  a  glass  or  two  of  white  wine ;  put  it 
on  the  fire  till  it  just  boils  again ;  then  set  it  on 
one  side  till  the  curd  has  settled  ;  pour  off 
the  clear  whey,  and  sweeten  it  as  you  like. 

Cider  is  often  substituted  for  wine,  or 
half  the  quantity  of  vinegar  that  we  have 
ordered  wine.  When  there  is  no  fire  in 
the  sick  room,  this  may  be  put  hot  into  a 
bottle,  and  laid  between  the  bed  and  mat- 
tress; it  will  keep  \varm  several  hours. 

WHEY.  (2)  Put  a  very  small  portion 
of  rennet  into  a  quart  of  milk,  and  let  it 
stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  turned; 
then  serve  it  in  a  dish,  with  sugar  and  a 
little  nutmeg,  grated,  and  strewed  over,  or 
strain  the  liquor  carefully  from  the  curd, 
and  serve  quite  clear. 

WHEY,  WHITE  WINE.  Boil  a 
pint  of  milk,  and  when  it  rises  in  the  pan, 
pour  in  one  glass  of  sherry  and  one  of  cur- 
rant wine;  let  it  again  boil  up,  take  it  off 
the  fire,  and,  when  it  has  stood  a  few  min- 
utes, remove  the  curd,  pour  off  the  clear 
whey,  and  sweeten  it. 

WHIM  WHAM.  Sweeten  a  quart  of 
cream,  and  mix  with  it  a  tea-cujjful  of  white 
wine,  and  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon  ;  whisk 
it  to  a  froth,  which  drain  upon  the  back  of  a 
sieve,  and  put  part  into  a  deep  glass  dish; 
cut  some  Naples  biscuit  as  thin  as  |x>?sible, 
and  put  a  layer  lightly  over  the  froth,  and 
one  of  red  currant  jelly,  then  a  layer  of  the 
froth,  and  one  of  the  biscuit  and  jelly;  finish 
with  the  froth,  and  pour  the  remainder  of  the 
cream  into  the  dish,  and  garnish  with  citron 
and  candied  orange-peel  cut  into  straws. 

WHITE  BEET,  LEAVES.  Pick  and 
wash  ilii'rn  clean,  put  them  on  in  lx>iling 
water  with  a  little  salt,  cover  the  saucepan, 
and  boil  them  longer  than  spinach;  drain  off 
the  water,  and  beat  them  as  spinach,  with  a 
bit  of  butter  and  a  little  salt. 

WHITINGS.  In  choosing  whitings,  be 
careful  that  the  skin  has  a  silvery  appear- 
ance, that  tlie  body  is  firm,  and  the  fins 
stiff;  these  are  sure  proofs  of  its  fresh- 


WHITINGS,  ENGLISH  WAY.  Put 
into  a  saucepan  two  spoonfuls  of  oil,  half  a 
lemon  sliced  (tlie  pips  and  rind  taken  off), 
salt,  and  pepper,  two  glasses  of  white  wine, 
the  same  of  water,  and  let  them  boil  nearly 
a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  put  the  whitings, 
properly  cleaned,  cook  them  in  the  above, 


WH  I 


245 


WOO 


blanch  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  lx>nt  it  with 
the  back  of  a  knife,  put  it  with  parsley, 
shallots,  and  two  glatvnof  cbampagsjB,  into 
avtrvqian  ;  let  it  Iwiil  live  mi'r.ites,  tlii'ii  add 
some  butter,  rolled  i'l  flour,  salt,  and  |>e|i|>er; 
stir  it  over  tin-  fire  till  smo.-ili,  then  serve. 

WIMTI\(;S,  FRIED.  (1)  Take  a?  many 

whitings  as  vim  may  require;  clea  • 
and  wipe  i hem  dry;   then  run  them  through 
u  itli  a  .-kewer,  soak  them  well  in 
milk;    flour,  and  fry  them  of  a  nice  color. 
•  .(MI  on  a  napkin. 

\VHITI\CS,  FRIED.  (2)  Skin  them, 
the  liver,  and  fasten  their  tail*  to 
their  months;  dip  lliem  in  t-S'4,  then  in 
bread-cnmibs,  and  fry  them  in  hot  lard,  or 
split  them,  anil  fry  them  like  lilL-ts  of  soles. 
A  three-quart  .-Tevvpan,  half  full  offal,  is  t lie 
best  utensil  to  fry  whitings.  They  will  lie 
done  eii-iugh  in  alxmt  five  minutes;  but  it 
will  sometime--  ret|iiire  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
to  drain  the  fit  from  them  and  dry  them  (if 
the  Lit  yon  put  (hem  into  was  not  Ikd  enough), 
turning  them  now  and  then  with  a  tish- 

WIIITE  FISH  AND  SAUCE.     Make 

a  rich  gravy  wi'h  a  bit  ..('  veal,  the  heads  and 
fins  of  four  or  five  haddocks,  three  or  four 
unions,  -oiii--  pai-K,  a  little  c.iyiine,  black 
|>ep|>er,ai)d  salt,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  half 
.  a  tal)le-s|XH)iilnl  of  ketchup,  half  a 
pint  of  white  wine,  and  two  quarts  of  water; 
nimmer  them  for  an  lumr,  strain,  and  put  to 
it  the  meat  of  a  lolister  or  crab  minced,  and 
forcemeat  balls;  thicken  it  with  half  a  pint 
of  cream,  llie  yolks  of  three  egg*  beaten,  and 
a  pint  of  butter  kneaded  in  flour.  Have 
ready  Uided  three  haddocks  skinned  and 
without  their  heads,  pour  the  sauce  over 
them  in  a  deep  dish.  Make  tile  forcemeat 
balls  of  a  small  boiled  haddock  finely  minc- 
ed, grated  bread  crumbs,  butter,  pepper, 
•alt,  grated  nutmeg,  and  parsley ;  bind  (hem 
with  the  whites  of  two  e^s  beaten,  and  fry 
them  in  fresh  lard  of  a  light  brown. 

_  WHITE  POT.  Beat  up  the  yolks  of 
eight,  and  the  whites  of  four  eggx,  with  two 
quarts  uf  new  milk,  a  little  rose  water,  a 
nutmeg,  grated,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sugar;  cut  a  small  roll  into  veiy  tlim 
.  them  in  a  di.-h,  anil  pour  the 
milk,  &c.  uver  them;  put  :•  bit  of  butter  on 
the  top,  ami  set  it  in  tin:  oven;  it  will  take 
half  an  hour  baking. 

W I IITE ROUX, or  W kite  Thickening 
for  Sauces  and  Made  Dishes.  Melt 
Mutually,  ovef  a  slow  tin-,  a  <joo.i  piere  of 
butter,  and  diedje  in  ,  ,.('  Hour  to 

make  it  like-  a  thin  pa>ie ;   k-*,-|i stirring  it 
21* 


for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  tlien  put  k  into 
a  small  jar  to  be  kept  for  use. 

WHITE  SAUCE.     See  Bechamel. 

WIDGEONS  AND  TEAL,  Addressed 

exactlx  as  llie  wild  duck  ;  only  that  less  time 
is  requisite  for  a  widgeon,  and  still  less  for 
a  teal. 

WILD  DUCKS.  For  roasting  a  wild 
duck,  yon  must  have  a  clear,  l>ri.-k  fire,  and 
a  hot  spit ;  it  must  !*•  browned  upon  the  out- 
side, without  being  sodden  within.  To  have 
it  well  frothed  and  full  of  gravy  is  the  nicety. 
Prepare  the  fire  by  stirring  and  raking  it 
just  U'lore  the  bird  is  laid  down,  and  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes  will  do  it  in  the  fashion- 
able wi\  ;  Uit  if  you  like  it  a  little  more 
done,  allow  it  a  few  minutes  longer;  if  it  is 
too  much,  it  will  lose  its,  flavor.  t 

WINE  (MADEIRA)SAUCE.    Take  a 

tea-spoonful  of  flour,  and  a  |>reserved  green 
lemon,  cut  into  (lice,  mix  them  will)  a  glass 
of  Madeira  wine,  and  a  little  connomme, 
add  an  ounce  of  butter,  some  sail  and  nut- 
meg; set  these  on  a  very  hot  stove  to  boil 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  take  it  off, 
put  in  a  quarter  of  a  (xnmd  of  butter,  set  it 
again  on  the  lire,  stirring  constantly  till  the 
butter  is  melted. 

WINTER  HOTCH-POTCH.  Take 
the  best  end  of  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton; 
cut  it  into  neat  chops;  cut  four  carrots,  and 
as  many  turnips  into  slices;  put  on  four 
quarts  of  water,  with  half  the  carrots  and 
luriii|>s,  and  a  whole  one  of  each,  with  a 
[MMiml  of'  di  ted  green  peas,  which  must  be 
put  to  soak  the  night  before;  let  it  boil  two 
hours,  then  take  out  the  whole  carrot  and 
turnip;  bruise  and  return  them;  put  in  the 
meat,  and  the  rest  of  the  carrot  and  turnip, 
some  pep|>er  and  salt,  and  boil  slowly  three- 
i|ii.u  t(i.-.  of  HII  hour;  a  short  time  before 
serving,  add  an  onion  cut  small  and  a  bead 
of  celery. 

WOODCOCKS.  (1)  The  greeted 
possible  care  .-ln.uM  be  taken,  in  picking  of 
these  birds,  to  handle  them  as  little  an  pos- 
sible, on  account  of  the  skin  being  so  par- 
ticularly tender,  that  wlien  broken  it  spoilt* 
tin-  beauty  of  the  bird.  When  picked,  cut 
off  the  pinions  tit  the  first  joint,  prrat  the 
legs  clo.-e  to  llie  side,  through  whic.h,  aad 
tlie  body,  pierce  (he  beak  of  the  bird ;  then 
cross  die.  It-el,  and  lay  a  flice  of  bacon  over 
the  bre:ist.  Woodcocks  and  snipes  tnajr  be 
die**.)  according  to  the  same  rule*. 

WOODCOCKS.  (2)  Take  a  pound 
of  lean  beef,  cut  it  into  piece*,  and  put  it 


woo 


246 


VEA 


into  a  saucepan,  with  two  quarts  of  water, 
an  onion  stuck  with  clove.*,  two  blades  of 
mace,  and  some  whole  pepper,  boil  all  these 
together  till  reduced  to  half ;  then  strain  it 
off  into  another  saucepan:  draw  the  wood- 
cocks, and  lay  the  trail  in  a  plate;  put  tlie 
woodcocks  into  the  gravy,  and  let  them  boil 
in  it  for  twelve  minutes;  while  they  are 
boiling,  mince  the  trail  and  liver  very  small ; 
put  them  into  a  small  saucepan,  with  a  lit- 
tle mace;  add  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  the 
gravy  tlie  woodcocks  are  boiled  in ;  then 
take  the  crumb  of  a  stale  roll,  rub  it  fine 
into  a  dish  placed  before  the  fire,  and  put  to 
tlie  trail,  in  the  small  saucepan,  half  a  pint 
of  red  port,  a  bit  of  butter,  rolled  in  finur, 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  shake  it  round  till  the 
butler  is  melted ;  tlien  put  in  the  bread- 
crumbs, and  shake  the  saucepan  round;  lay 
the  woodcocks  in  the  dish,  pour  the  sauce 
over  them,  and  serve. 

WOODCOCKS.  (3)  Woodcocks  should 
not  be  drawn,  as  the  trail  is  by  the  lovers 
of  "  haul  gout"  considered  a  "  bonne 
bouche;"  truss  their  legs  close  to  the  body, 
and  run  an  iron  skewer  through  each  thigh, 
close  to  the  body,  and  tie  them  on  a  small 
bird  spit;  put  them  to  roast  at  a  clear  fire; 
cut  as  many  slices  of  bread  as  you  have 
birds,  toast  or  fry  them  a  delicate  brown, 
and  lay  them  in  the  dripping-pan  under  the 
birds  to  catch  the  trail ;  baste  them  with 
butter,  and  froth  them  with  flour  ;  lay  the 
toast  on  a  hot  dish,  and  the  birds  on  the 
toa.st ;  pour  some  good  beef  gravy  into  tlie 
dish,  and  send  some  up  in  a  boat,  twenty  or 
thirty  minutes  will  roast  them.  Garnish 
with  slices  of  lemon.  Some  epicures  like 
this  bird  very  much  under-done,  and  direct 
that  a  woodcock  should  be  just  introduced 
to  the  cook,  for  her  to  show  it  the  fire,  and 
then  send  it  up  to  table. 

WOODCOCKS  IN  A  MINUTE.    Put 

a  brace  of  woodcocks  into  a  fryingpan, 
with  some  butler,  shred  shallots,  grated 
nutmeg,  salt,  and  pepper;  set  the  pan  on  a 
fierce  fire,  and  fry  I  he  woodcocks  lightly  for 
seven  or  eight  minutes;  then  add  the  juice 
of  two  lemons,  half  a  glass  of  white  wine, 
and  some  raspings ;  and  leave  them  on  the 
fire  till  the  sauce  has  boiled  up  once;  then 
serve  altogether. 

WOODCOCK  SALMIS.     Cut  up  the 
woodcock  on  the  table,  and  put  tlie  pieces 
on  a  dish,  which  place  on  a  stand,   with  a 
lamp  under  it;  add  pepper,  salt,  shred  shal- 
lots, nearly  a  glass  of  white  wine,  the  juice 
•t  of  three  lemons,  and  a  bit  of  butter;    strew 
Taspings  over,  and  boil  slowly  for  ten  min- 
frtes,  stirring  occasionally.     Use  spirits  of 
wine,  for  your  lamp- 


WOODCOCK  SAUCE.  Pound  the 
bones  and  livers  of  roasted  woodcocks,  and 
put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  spoon- 
fuls of  cullis,  and  two  spoonfuls  of  red  port ; 
reduce  it  to  the  consistence  of  a  sauce,  and 
then  strain  it;  when  strained,  add  pepper, 
salt,  and  tlie  juice  of  two  oranges. 


Y. 

YEAST.  Beer  yeast,  which  is  the  best 
for  bread,  should  be  strained  through  a  hair 
sieve,  and  two  or  three  quarts  of  cold  spring 
water  poured  over  it;  when  it  has  stood  for 
twenty-four  hours  the  water  should  lie  poured 
off,  the  yeast  will  then  be  found  at  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel,  quite  thick.  To  preserve  that 
which  may  be  left  over  the  baking,  it  should 
l>e  put  into  a  bottle,  corked  tightly,  and  kept 
in  a  cool  place.  In  cold  weather  it  will 
continue  good  for  a  fortnight,  but  fresh  yeast 
is  always  preferable.  When  it  does  not  ap- 
pear sufficiently  strong,  honey  or  brown  sugar 
may  l>c  mixed  with  it,  in  the  proportion  of  a 
tea-spoonful  to  half  a  pint. 

YEAST,  BAKER'S.  Boil  two  ounces 
of  hops  in  four  quarts  of  water  one  hour, 
adding  more  water  as  it  decreases,  carefully 
stirring  it  all  the  time,  and  taking  care  that 
it  do  not  boil  over;  strain  the  liquor,  and 
mix  well  with  it  two  pounds  of  malt;  cover 
it,  and  let  it  stand  for  eight  hours,  or  until  it 
be  milk  warm,  then  stir  in  half  a  pint  of 
good  yeast;  when  mixed  well  together,  let 
it  work  for  ten  hours,  and  then  strain  it 
through  a  hair  sieve. 

YEAST,  BRAN.  Boil  for  ten  minutes, 
in  two  quarts  of  water,  one  pint  of  bran,  and 
a  small  handful  of  good  hops;  strain  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  when  milk  warm,  add 
three  or  four  table-spoonfuls  of  beer  yeast, 
and  two  of  brown  sugar  or  treacle:  put  it 
into  a  wooden  stoupor  jug;  cover  it,  and 
place  it  before  the  fire  to  ferment.  It  may 
be  bottled,  tightly  corked,  and  kept  in  a  cool 
place. 

YEAST  DUMPLINGS.  Make  a  very 
light  dough  with  yeast,  the  same  as  for  bread, 
but  with  milk  instead  of  water,  add  salt; 
set  it  by  the  fire,  covered  up  in  a  pan,  for 
half  an  hour,  or  an  hour,  to  rise ;  in  tlie  mean 
lin.e,  set  on  the  fire  a  large  saucepan  of  hot 
water,  and  as  soon  as  it  boils,  roll  up  die 
dough  into  small  balls,  and  put  them  into  the 
boiling  water;  keep  them  continually  boiling 
for  ten  minutes,  tlien  take  them  out,  and  serve 
them  immediately,  with  wine  sauce  over 
them.  To  ascertain  whether  they  are  suffi- 


YEA 


247 


ZES 


ciently  boiled,  stick  a  fork  into  one,  and  if  it 
cornea  out  clean,  it  is  done  enough.  Some 
think  the  l<est  manner  of  eating  them  is  by 
dividing  them  from  the  top  by  two  forks,  as 
they  become  heavy  by  their  own  steam,  and 
eat  them  immediately  with  meat,  or  sugar 
and  butter,  or  salt. 

YELLOW  GLAZE.  Make  a  glaze, 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar  in 

Cowder,  the  white  of  an  egg,  to  which  add 
y  degrees  as  much  lemon-juice  as  may  be 
necessary;  when  sufficiently  beaten  up,  (and 
the  longer  it  is  beaten  the  whiter  it  will  be), 
add  to  it  a  small  quantity  of  infusion  of  saf- 
fron, strained,  and  the  yellow  rind  of  one  or 
two  lemons  grated  on  a  piece  of  sugar,  scrap- 
ed off  and  pounded;  take  care,  however, 
not  to  put  too  much  of  the  latter,  lest  the 
glaze  should  be  hitter. 

YEAST,  TO  MAKE.  Boil  for  half  an 
hour  two  quarts  of  water,  thickened  with 
about  three  spoonfuls  of  fine  flour,  and 
sweetened  with  nearly  half  a  pound  of  brown 
sugar;  when  almost  cold,  put  it  into  a  jug, 
adding'  four  spoonfuls  of  fresh  yeas  I ;  shake 
it  well  together,  let  it  stand  uncovered  near 
the  fire  for  a  day,  to  ferment.  There  will  be 


a  thin  liquor  on  the  top,  pour  this  off;  shake 
the  remainder,  and  cork  it  up  for  use.  To 
make  a  half  peck  loaf  you  should  use  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pint  of  the  above. 

YEAST,  POTATO.  Boil  some  good 
mealy  potatoes ;  peel  and  weigh  them ;  while 
hot,  bruise  them  finely,  and  mix  them  quickly 
with  boiling  water,  allowing  one  quart  to 
each  pound ;  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve, 
then  add  honey  or  brown  sugar  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  ounce  to  each  quart  of  water ; 
boil  it  to  the  consistency  of  batter,  and  when 
nearly  cold,  add  a  large  table-spoonful  of 
good  yeast  to  every  quart  of  water ;  cover  it 
with  a  cloth  to  rise,  and  the  following  day  it 
will  be  ready  for  use ;  keep  a  bottle  of  it, 
which  may  be  used  instead  of  beer  yeast  for 
the  next  making,  first  pouring  off  the  thin 
liquid  that  is  on  the  top.  It  must  be  made 
with  fresh  beer  yeast  every  two  or  three 
months.  Double  the  quantity  of  this,  as  of 
beer  yeast,  is  required  to  make  bread 
light.  ' 

ZESTS.  Zest  (a  term  of  art,  used  by 
confectioners)  is  the  peel  of  oranges,  lemons, 
or  citrons,  cut  from  top  to  bottom,  in  small 
slips  or  zests,  as  thin  as  possible. 


RECEIPTS 


FOR    MAKING    ALL    KINDS    OF 


CONFECTIONERY. 


CONFECTIONERY 


ALM 

ALMONDS,  BLOWN.  Scald  a  few  al- 
monds, and  pound  them  to  a! unit  half  as  fine 
as  for  biscuits,  beat  them  with  lemon-juice, 
whites  of  egjjs  anil  powder-sugar;  drop 
them  on  paper,  about  tin-  size  of  almond*, 
and  dry  them  in  a  stove  or  gentle  oven. 

ALMONDS        BLOWN        ROYAL. 

Choose  four  ounce.-,  of  small  thick  almonds, 
and    put  them  into  an  oven  until  they  are 
.-•lightly  colored.       Whilst  I  hey  are  cooling, 
mix   four    (Miners    df  sii^ar    with    an   egg; 
U'ut  them  up  fir  ten  minutes;   add  a  little 
carmine  to  make  it  a  fine  rose  color;  dip  i 
the  almondii  into  this:  take  them  out;   dis- 
••njjajM'  (hem  from  the  ?%%,  so  that  tliey  may 
he  only  just  covered  with  it;   lay  them  two  I 
and  two  on  a  sheet  of  strong  paper  three- 
quarters   of  an    inch   between  each  pair; 
they  may  also  lie  placed  in  threes  to  form 
tlu>  tre-foil,  on  w  hich  may  be  added  a  fourth.  ; 
Bake  Uiein  in  a  cool  oven. 

ALMOND  BUTTER.     To  a  quarter  j 

of  a  |xiund  of  blanched  almonds,  well  beat,  '; 
put  some  new  milk  and  rose  water;  take 
a  quart  of  thick  cream,  and  the  yolks  of 
twelve  eggs  beat  well  with  a  little  of  the 
cream  ;  ilien  add  the  rest  of  the  cream;  put 
a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  new  milk  to  the  al- 
monds, and  .-tiain  them  into  the  cream  till  , 
there  is  no  strength  left ;  strain  all  togeth- 
er into  a  skillet,  set  it  over  a  charcoal  fire, 
and  stir  it  till  it  cornea  to  a  tender  curd; 
put  it  into  a  strainer,  and  hang  it  up  till  the 
whey  is  drained  out;  then  take  six  ounces 
of  fine  cificd  sugar  and  a  little  rose  water, 
and  beat  it  all  into  butter  with  a  spoon. 

ALMOND  BITTER  CAKE.  Pound 
three  ounce*  (half  bitter  and  half  sweet)  of 
almonds,  put  them  into  an  earthen  pan  with 
six  ounces  of  powder  sugar;  the  same  of 
sifted  (lour,  two  whole  eggs,  and  six  yolks, 
a  spoonful  of  brandy  and  a  grain  or  two  of 
pall ;  work  these  up  together  for  five  min- 
ute* and  then  add  six  ounces  of  fresh  but- 
ler which  is  .-lightly  wanned,  work  that  in 
for  four  minutes  longer.  Then,  having 
whipped  the  whiles  of  two  eggs,  mix  them 
into  the  paste.  Butter  a  well-tinned  copper 


ALM 

mould  or  paper  case,  ten  inches  long,  five 
wide,  and  two  high;  pour  in  your  prepara- 
tion, and  bake  it  in  a  cool  oven.  While  bak- 
ipg,  whip  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  mix 
two  ounces  of  powder  sugar  with  them,  and 
cut  four  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  into  slips 
(short  wise;)  mix  them  also  with  two  ounce* 
of  powder  sugar  and  a  spoonful  of  white  of 
PJJ?  whipped.  In  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
take  out  the  cake,  and  if  it  be  firm  and  well 
colored,  cover  it  with  the  whipped  egg  and 
sugar,  and  on  that  strew  the  almonds  equal- 
ly, press  ing  them  in,  that  all  may  be  colored 
alike.  This  operation  must  be  performed  as 
quick  as  possible,  and  when  done,  turn  the 
cake  out  and  cut  it  in  four  slips  (length- 
wise,) and  then  divide  each  into  six  parts 
lozenge-shaped ;  this  will  give  you  twenty- 
four  cakes,  which  must  be  arranged  in  stars 
on  your  dish,  six  to  every  star.  They 
may  also  be  cut  in  two  lengths  instead  of 
four,  and  these  divided  into  fifteen  small 
pieces,  and  then,  with  a  paste-cutter,  form- 
ed into  crescents.  The  ingredients,  and  the 
proper  quantities  for  this  cake  are  as  follows: 
— six  ounces  of  flour,  the  same  of  powder 
sugar,  three  ounces  of  sweet  and  bitter  al- 
monds, six  yolks,  and  two  whole  eggs,  six 
ounces  of  butter,  two  of  sugar  mixed  with 
the  w  hites  of  two  eggs  whipped,  four  ounces 
of  cut  almonds  added  to  the  sugar  and  eggs, 
a  spoonful  of  brandy  and  a  grain  of  salt. 

ALMOND  CANDY.  Blanch  a  pound 
of  the  best  almonds,  and  cut  them  very 
thin,  lengthways,  put  them  into  a  pound  of 
clarified  sugar  to  crisp  them,  stir  them  over 
the  fire  till  boiled  to  souffle;  then  take 
them  off  and  keep  stirring  till  the  sugar  is 
dry  like  sand:  then  silt  it,  so  that  the  al- 
monds may  be  left,  divide  them  into  four 
parts  to  color  them  differently,  one  part 
red,  the  second  yellow,  the  third  green,  and 
the  fourth  left  white  as  they  come  from  the 
-u.-ar.  To  color  the  first,  soak  a  small 
quantity  of  carmine  in  clarified  sugar,  and 
lay  your  almonds  in  it;  do  the  same  with  a 
little  tincture  of  saffron  for  the  yellow,  and 
spinach  juice  for  the  green.  Place  the  col- 
ored almonds  on  a  neve  in  a  stove;  when 
dry,  mix  all  together,  adding  the  white 


ALM 


252 


ALM 


ones.  Boil  nearly  as  much  sugar  as  your 
mould  will  require  to  souffle,  put  it  in,  and 
when  the  almonds  are  quite  dry,  garnish  the 
surface  of  the  sugar  with  them;  do  not, 
however,  lay  them  too  thick,  and  just  pi-ess 
them  down  with  a  fork;  put  the  mould  in- 
to a  moderate  oven  for  five  hours,  then  drain 
it  well,  and  in  another  two  hours  it  may  be 
taken  from  the  mould. 

ALMONDS  CINNAMON  SPANISH. 

Blanch  your  almonds,  then  with  a  bit  of 
butter  tied  in  a  piece  of  ctolli,  rub  the  pan 
and  brown  them.  Have  ready  some  clari- 
fied sugar,  with  powdered  cinnamon  stirred 
in  it,  put  in  the  almonds,  and  when  well  cov- 
ered with  llie  sugar  and  cinnamon,  lay  them 
separately  on  tins,  and  dry  in  a  slow  oven. 

ALMONDS  TO  COLOR.  ALMONDS 
ROSE  COLORED.  Blanch  and  cut  sweet 
almonds  in  small  pieces,  put  them  on  a  bak- 
ing plate,  and  pour  on  them  a  link-  of  any 
vegetable  liquid,  of  an  infusion  of  cochineal, 
or  carmine;  then  rub  them  in  your  hands, 
to  mix  them  well  with  the  color;  when  all 
are  so  done,  dry  them  in  a  stove  or  in  die 
oven. 

ALMONDS  VIOLET.  Are  done  in  the 
same  way,  the  coloring  ingredients  are 
cochineal,  and  a  little  indigo  dissolved  in 
water,  put  but  a  small  quantity  of  die  latter 
at  a  time  as  it  is  very  powerful. 

ALMONDS  GREEN.  The  same  pro- 
ceeding: die  color  is  made  with  two  hand- 
fills  of  fresh  spinach,  well  washed,  drained, 
and  then  pounded;  when  very  fine,  press  it 
through  a  napkin  ;  let  the  juice  drop  on  a 
dish,  which  place  on  a  hot  stove;  as  soon  as 
it  begins  to  boil,  take  it  off,  stirring  it  con- 
stantly, till  the  green  curdles,  then  pour  it 
through  a  horsehair  sieve,  and  when  well 
drained  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve  or  tam- 
my; the  juice  thus  obtained,  will  give  the 
almonds  (which  must  be  put  in  a  lew  at  a 
time)  a  clear  and  even  green  color. 

ALMONDS  BLUE.  Dissolve  a  little  in- 
digo  in  water,  strain  it  through  a  cloth  and 
use  it  as  above  mentioned. 


ALMONDS    ORANGE 

Mix  a  little  liquid  red,  and  a  little  infusion 
of  saffron  togedier,  and  proceed  with  die  al- 
monds as  usual. 

ALMONDS     LEMON     COLORED. 

Infuse  a  small  quantity  of  saffron  in  nearly 
boiling  water  for  a  few  minutes;  strain  and 
follow  the  above  direction. 

ALMONDS  CHOCOLATE   COLOR- 


ED.     Are  dyed  with  chocolate  dissolved  in 
water  and  strained. 

The  almonds  may  be  cut  in  slips,  dice, 
&c.  according  to  fancy.  Observe  that  die 
color  of  your  almond's  should  be  light  and 
delicate;  when  done,  place  them,  eidier 
separately  or  mixed  together,  iu  papei 
cases. 

ALMOND  COUPEAUX.  Blanch  and 
pound  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  with 
die  whites  of  three  eggs  into  a  very  fine 
paste,  add  to  it  six  ounces  of  powdered  su- 
gar and  the  rind  of  a  lemon  grated ;  when 
thoroughly  mixed  togedier,  pour  over  it 
about  four  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower  water: 
stir  up  the  paste  (which  ought  to  be  rather 
thin,)  once  more,  and  then  lay  it  with  a 
spoon  on  a  plate  of  bright  copper,  in  an 
oval  form,  about  three  or  four  inches  in 
length.  The  plate  being  quite  full,  take  it 
up  by  Iwth  hands,  and  strike  it  steadily  upon 
a  table,  so  that  the  paste  may  be  extended, 
but  not  much ;  then  bake  them  until  diey  be- 
come of  a  deep  yellow.  Take  them  from 
the  copper  with  a  knife,  and  whilst  hot  put 
them  on  a  wooden  roller,  about  the  diick- 
ness  of  an  arm,  and  press  them  widi  your 
hand,  that  they  may  acquire  the  form  of  die 
wood,  and  when  cool  place  in  a  box,  and 
keep  them  dry.  These  coupeaux  are  very 
brittle. 

ALMONDS  CRISPED.  Rub  a  pound 
of  the  best  sweet  almonds  in  a  cloth  to  take 
off  all  the  dust,  and  then  put  them,  with 
a  pound  of  sugar,  half  a  glass  of  water  and 
a  little  carmine,  into  a  preserving  pan;  put 
them  on  the  fire,  and  let  them  remain;  when 
the  almonds  crackle  lake  them  off  and  work 
them  about  until  the  sugar  is  detached  from 
the  almonds,  then  take  away  part  of  the  su- 
gar, put  the  almonds  on  the  fire  again,  and 
stir  them  lightly  with  a  spatula,  (be  careful 
that  the  fire  be  not  too  quick;)  and  when 
diey  have  taken  the  sugar,  add  that  which 
had  been  removed,  and  continue  to  burn 
them  till  they  have  unbilled  that  also.  Place 
a  sheet  of  paper  on  a  sieve,  throw  your  al- 
monds on  it,  separate  those  which  adhere 
together,  and  let  them  cool. 

ALMOND  DRAGEES.  Take  of  the 
best  and  largest  almonds  what  quantity  you 
please,  and  having  washed  them  in  cold  wa- 
ter, let  them  drain  and  dry  on  a  sieve  for 
twenty-four  hours.  Tin;  next  day  weigh 
them,  and  for  each  pound  of  almonds  lake 
diree  pounds  of  sugar;  clarifv  the  latter  and 
boil  it  to  the  degree  petit  lissc;  then  let  it 
cool  a  little.  Hau;  \onr  tossing  pan  ready; 
on  your  right  hand,  a  dialing  dish  to  keep 
your  pan  containing  the  sirup  constantly 
warm;  and  on  your  left  hand,  a  table  widi 


ALM 


253 


ALM 


a  mixture  of  powder  and  flour  (of  each  half 
a  |xmnd  to  a  pound  of  almonds).  All  being 
ready,  ptit  the  almonds  into  the  |«m,  ami 
punr  ou-r  tin-in  OIK-  or  two  large  ipOOflMl 
of  tlie  pimp,  and  shake  them  so  that  all  tlie 
almonds  may  I*  wetted  with  sirup;  then 
take  a  handful  or  two  of  the  (lour  and  pow- 
der, and  strew  it  OUT  tin-  u«-t  almonds; 
shake  them  again,  that  the  Hour  may  adliere 
all  round  the  almond*.  After  this,  swing 
the  pan  backwards  and  forwards,  liy  which 
means  the  almonds  roll  aUmt  in  e\i-iy  direc- 
tion; continue  tlii.s  motion  until  they  In-come 
dry;  then  m<>i.-teii  and  powder  them  as  Ix- 
liuc;  swing  the  pan  a^.iin.  and  when  dry, 
rejK-at  tlie  proce«  a  third,  fourth,  anil  fifth 
time,  or  more,  until  they  are  of  a  proper 
si/.i-;  then  pour  over  them  the  sirup  li*r  the 
last  time,  without  tin.-  powder,  and,  having 
MV  IMI,'  and  dried  them,  take  them  out  and 
place  them  on  sieM-s  in  a  warm  place,  tliat 
they  may  dry  perfectly  before  you  put  them 
l>v  f'.r  n<e. 

Observe,  that  after  a  few  layers  of  the 
sirup,  the  mpentbooduM  parts  nt  lira  and 
the  piiwder  form  a  white  cnisl  at  the  Ixitloin 
of  the  pan;  a-  -.>.  .11  as  it  acquires  any  de- 
gree of  thickne.-s,  the  pan  must  l»e  taken 
from  the  lire,  the  almonds  can-fully  icmoved 
\vith  an  iron  .-palnla.  anil  the  crust  broken 
off;  when  tin;  pan  h,,-  I  c.-n  well  washed  and 
dried,  replace  the  almond*  and  pi  i  • 
your  woik.  This  mi'-t  !»•  sti  icily  attended 
to,  not  only  with  this,  Imi  in  making  all 
kinds  of  sweetmeats.  The  sugar  tlms  clear- 
ed away  may  be  made  useful  for  many  pur- 


Common    Almond   Dragees  are  made   in 
the  same  manner;    the   onlv   dilVen-iici;  con- 

.-i.-t.--  in  having  ingredient!  of  an  inferior 
quality. 

ALMONDS   (MILK  or)  FANCHON- 

M.ITKS.  r.lanch  and  pound  eight  ounce* 
of  sweet  and  one  of  bitter  almonds,  and 
when  the  paste  is  very  line,  add  to  it  three 
glasses  of  nearly  tailing  milk,  then  press 
this  mixture  ihroiigli  a  napkin  to  draw  out 
tlie.  milk.  Put  into  a  slewpan  four  yolks 
tin  II-  ounces  of  powder- 
t'our,  and  a  grain  of  salt,  mix  them 
well  tojciher,  and  add  by  degrees  tlie  al- 
iiii.n  i  milk,  put  thin  on  a  moderate  fire,  stir- 
ring it  constantly.  Line  about  thirty  tartlet 
moulds  with  thin  puff  ,i:i-te,  and  put  on  them 
a  little  of  tin:  aU.xe  |  !•  ;  iiation,  and  bak? 
tlicm  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  properK 
done,  t.ike  them  out  and  let  them  cool.  Mix 
with  the  "  hites  of  three  hard 

n  ,  siir  it  well  to  soften 
v\  01  k  easily  ;  put  some 

of  the  remainder  of  your  pri  para  t  ion  on 
each  of  tlie  fancltonneitcx,  and  C..UT  tliem 
lightly  wiili  tliu  e.;.,'  ;  .lie  of  igg 


on  tlie  blade  of  a  ktrge  knife,  and  with  a 
small  one  ag  quirk  as  possible  take  off  sev- 
en meringues  about  tlie  si/.e  of  a  tilbert, 
and  arrange  them  in  the  form  of  a  crown  on 
each  fanchonnette;  when  you  have  done 
live  or  six,  cover  them  with  powder-sugar 
very  equally,  and  llicn  bake  tin  i:>  in  a  cool 
oven.  When  of  a  reddish  brown  they  are 
done  and  may  be  served. 

ALMOND  CHEESE,  BITTER.  Peel, 
wash,  and  drain, three  ounce*  of  sweet,  and 
one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  pound  them  to 
a  paste,  moistening  with  two  spoonful  of 
water.  Put  them  into  an  earthen  pan,  with 
two  glasses  of  nearly  Ixjilin;;  milk,  in  which 
eight  ounces  of  sii^'ar  have  been  dissolved  ; 
let  (his  stand  an  hour,  then  stiaiu  it  through 
a  fine  8Je\e,  and  put  to  it  six  drachms  of 
isinglass  lukewarm;  place  the  whole  in  ice 
and  when  il  U'gins  to  set,  add  some  whipped 
cream;  pour  it  into  a  mould  which  hag  been 
kept  in  ii:e,  put  it  in  ice  ayaiu  for  half  an 
hour,  and  then  take  the  fromuge  from  tlie 
mould. 

ALMOND   FLUMMERY.    Boil  three 

ounces  of  hai  t.-hoin  in  two  quarts  of  spring 
u.iier;  let  it  Dimmer  six  or  seven  hours  till 
half  the  wati-r  is  consumed  ;  strain  il  through 
a  >ie\e;  lieat  half  a  pound  of  almonds  very 
line,  with  a  quantity  of  orange-flower  water; 
mix  a  little  of  the  jelly  and  some  fine  sugar 
«ith  it  ;  strain  it  with  the  rest  of  the  jelly, 
stirring  it  till  it  is  a  little  more  than  blood 
warm  ;  jxmr  it  inlo  liasius  or  cups,  and  stick 
in  almonds  cut  small. 

ALMOND  GARLANDS.  Take  half 
a  pound  of  march-pane  paste,  the  whiten  i.f 
two  nr  three  i-^.;s,  some  [lowiiered  cinnamon 
and  a  little  Hour,  knead  them  into  a  pafte, 
and  roll  them  into  the  form  of  sausages  with 
your  hand  on  tlie  table,  first  strewing  the 
table  with  almonds  minced,  but  not  very  fine  ; 
so  that  they  may  adhere  to  the  sauKip  -, 
which  ought  to  lie  about  the  size  of  jxmr 
finger  ;  then  lonn  them  into  rings  or  gar- 
ni" what  size  you  please,  fixing  the  ends 
toLjeilK-r  with  water:  place  them  on  paper, 
and  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven  until  they  are 
of  a  clear  brown  color. 

ALMOND  LITTLE  CAKE,  BITTER. 

Pound  six  drachms  of  bitter  almond)',  strain 
them  through  a  sie\e,  and  mix  them  in  an 
earthen  \csscl,  with  nearly  the.  white  of  an 
egg,  and  nix  ounces  of  sugar,  stir  these  with 
a  silver  ?|Kion  for  a  few  minutes.  Take 
three-qnai  ten:  of  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  roll 
it  to  the  thickness  of  a  qnaitcr  of  an  inch, 
and  rut  out  of  it  thirty  oral  cake*  i\m  inciw-w 
and  a  l.a'f  long  by  two  .oui  a  quarter  wi<te 
pointed  ai  tlie  ends  ;  put  on  each  a  quarter 


ALM 


254 


ALM 


of  a  spoonful  of  the  almond  glaze,  and  with 
die  blade  of  a  knife  spread  it  equally  over 
the  surface  for  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch, 
and  then  let  them  stand  for  hall'  an  hour 
before  von  put  them  into  the  oven,  which 
must  !*•  moderate.  If  you  bake  them  imme- 
diately after  putting  on  the  glaze,  it  wrinkles 
and  shrivels  up,  which  spoils  their  appear- 
ance, as  they  ought  to  be  quite  smooth  and 
even  ;  the  cakes  also  require  considerable 
care  in  the  baking ;  they  should  be  slightly 
colored  on  the  top  and  the  lower  part  red- 
dish. 

ALMOND     GENOESE,     BITTER. 

Blanch  two  ounces  four  drachms  of  swrd, 
and  two  ounces  and  a  half  of  billet' almonds, 
pound  them  to  a  paste  and  then  put  them 
into  the  following  preparation  :  blanch  and 
pound  four  ounces  of  sweet  almonds,  and 
when  perfectly  smooth,  mix  them  in  an  earth- 
en pan  will)  six  ounces  of  flour,  the  same  of 
powder-sugar,  six  yolks  and  two  whole  eggs, 
a  spoonful  of  brandy  and  a  grain  of  salt. 
Stir  the  whole  for  six  minutes,  then  add  six 
ounces  of  butter  slightly  warmed  but  not 
melted  ;  work  ihe  butter  well  into  the  paste 
for  four  or  five  minutes.  Butler  two  moulds, 
or  paper  cases,  about  nine  or  ten  inches 
square,  pour  in  your  preparation,  smooth  it 
with  the  blade  of  a  knife  and  then  put  them 
to  bake  in  a  moderale  oven,  firsl  strewing 
on  them  four  ounces  of  sweel  almonds  minced 
and  mixed  with  two  ounces  of  powder-sugar, 
and  a  little  white  of  egg.  When  done,  cul 
them  inlo  all  possible  forms,  then  replace 
them  in  the  oven  to  dry  ;  when  britlle,  lake 
them  out,  let  them  cool,  and  decorate  them 
to  your  fancy. 

ALMOND,  GRILLAGE.  Blanch 
half  a  pound  of  almonds,  cut  them  into  four 
or  five  slips,  lengthways,  pralinez  them 
with  three-eighths  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  sand 
them  when  they  begin  to  crackle  ;  then  put 
them  on  the  fire  again  till  they  are  well  mixed 
together  >and  form  a  mass,  which  put  on 
wafer-paper  lightly  oiled,  lay  it  flat,  strew 
over  it  cinnamon,  sugar,  plain  or  white 
nonpareils,  and  then  cut  it  in  pieces. 

ALMOND  KNOTS.  Take  two  pounds 
of  almonds,  and  blanch  them  in  hot  water  ; 
beal  ihem  in  a  mortar,  to  a  very  fine  paste, 
will)  rose  waier,  be  careful  to  keep  them  from 
oiling.  Take  a  pound  of  double-refined  su- 
gar, sifted  through  ft  lawn  sieve,  leave  out 
some  to  make  up  the  knots,  put  the  rest  in 
a  pun  upon  the  fire,  till  it  is  scalding  hot,  at 
the  same  time  have  the  almonds  scalding 
hot  in  another  pan  ;  then  mix  them  together 
with  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  to  froth, 
and  let  it  stand  until  it  is  cold  ;  then  roll  it 
with  some  of  the  stijjar  left  out  for  lliat 


purpose,  and  lay  ihem  in  philters  of  paper. 
They  will  not  roll  into  shape,  tlierefore  lay 
them  as  well  as  may  be,  and  bake  tlicm  in 
a  slow  oven. 

ALMOND  MILK.  Take  six  onnces  of 
sweet  almonds,  and  a  pinl  of  milk,  four 
drachms  of  orange-flower  water,  and  five 
ounces  of  sugar.  Blanch  and  pound  the 
almonds  to  a  very  smooth  pasle,  moistening 
them  occasionally  with  a  few  drops  of  milk  ; 
when  your  paste  crumbles,  pul  il  in  llie  milk 
and  mix  them  well,  and  boil  it  till  reduced 
to  half,  then  let  it  boil  up  once  more  ;  let 
it  cool  and  serve. 

ALMOND  MIRLITONS.  Blanch  an 
ounce  of  sweel,  and  the  same  of  biller  al- 
monds, and  dry  ihem  in  an  oven  ;  when  cold. 
pound  them  with  a  little  white  of  egg  to 
prevent  their  oiling  ;  then  put  them  into  an 
earthen  pan  with  Iwo  ounces  of  bitter  maca- 
roons, five  ounces  of  powder-sugar,  four  whole 
eggs,  and  a  grain  of  salt  ;  when  these  are 
well  mixed  together,  add  two  ounces  of  butter, 
lukewarm.  Make  a  proper  quantity  of  puff 
pasle,  roll  it  out  thin,  and  cut  it  into  thirty 
round  pieces  alxjut  Iwo  inches  and  three- 
quarters  in  diameter,  and  put  each  ot  these 
into  a  tartlet  mould  buttered  ;  put  ihe  mirli- 
tons  on  lliis,  and  when  all  are  equally  full, 
cover  them  with  powder  sugar  sifted  over 
them  through  a  laininy  ;  as  soon  :is  lliat  is 
dissolved  strew  more  (but  not  such  fine)  pow- 
der sugar  over,  and  bake  diem  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

ALMOND  MONCEAUX.  Take  half 
a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  cul  them  into  thin 
slips  (lengthways)  and  roast  ihem  on  an  iron 
until  they  are  of  a  deep  yellow  color,  inclin- 
ing to  brown  ;  beat  up  the  whiles  of  six  or 
eight  eggs  with  a  spoon  in  an  earthen  pan. 
Pour  over  ihe  almonds  a  pound  of  sugar  finely 
powdered,  (bar  ounces  of  candied  orange  peel, 
ihe  same  of  candied  lemon-peel,  also  cul  into 
thin  slips,  half  a  spoonful  of  |wwdered  cinna- 
mon, and  six  or  eight  cloves  pounded  ;  mix 
these  ingredients  well  in  tlie  pan,  and  place 
it  on  paper  in  little  heaps  of  a  pyramidal 
form,  and  bake  them  in  a  well-healed  oven. 

ALMOND  PASTE.  Blanch  two  pounds 
of  sweet  almonds,  and  soak  them  in  cold 
water  for  twelve  hours,  then  dry  them  in  a 
napkin,  and  pound  a  quarter  of  them  to  a 
very  fine  paste  with  a  litlle  water  and  lemon- 
juice,  pass  them  through  a  sieve,  and  then 
pound  the  remainder  (half  a  (xiiind  al  a  lime.) 
When  all  are  done,  mix  them  with  a  pound 
of  sifted  sugar  ;  place  them  over  a  gentle  fire, 
stirring  it  continually,  until  the  paste  will 
(low  from  the  spoon  ;  then  pour  it  into  a 
mortar,  and  when  it  becomes  lukewarm, 


ALM 


255 


ALM 


pound  it  again  with  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon 
previously  dissolved  in  a  glass  of  water  and 
strained,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  a 
pound  of  sifted  sugar.  As  soon  as  \"iir  |  -aste 
is  of  the  pro|>er  consistence,  take  it  out  and 
lay  it  on  the  slab,  sprinkled  first  with  sn_rar  ; 
divide  your  |>a$te  into  three  (Kills,  and  color 
each  part  according  to  your  fancy.  The 
coloring  or  dyes  are  made  of  the  same 
materials  as  are  used  for  almonds. 

ALMOND  PASTE  to  keep  tix,  or 
even  twelve  months.  Ulancli  and  pound 
a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  moistened  occa- 
sionally with  water,  to  prevent  their  oiling; 
when  well  beaten,  add  half  a  pound  of  fine 
[x>wdered  sugar,  and  mix  the  whole  into  a 
pa-te  to  use  when  you  have  occasion.  When 
wanted,  mix  a  piece  about  tlie  size  of  an  egg 
with  three  gills  of  water,  and  strain  it  through 
a  napkin. 

ALMOND  PRALINFS,  (dried,  pre- 
served or  burnt.)  A  |>nund  of  the  best 
almonds  must  be  washe'i  in  cold  water  ; 
when  thoroughly  dry,  put  them  into  a  pre- 
-i  i  \  ing  |>an  w  ilh  a  |x>und  of  .-uu.ir  and  a  pint 
ami  a  half  of  water,  keep  them  on  the  tire, 
stirring  (hem  continually,  until  they  crackle 
and  fly  about,  and  the  sugar  Ix-gins  to  color, 
stir  them  alxuit  gently  to  gather  the 
and  leave  them  in  the  pan  to  dry  about  two 
hours,  in  a  stove  or  any  moderate  heat. 

ALMONDS,  RED  CRISPED.  Pre- 
pare tliem  as  alxive  until  they  have  taken 
the  sugar  and  are  ready  to  be  taken  off'  the 
fire,  put  tlie  almonds  ujwn  a  sieve  with  a 
dish  under,  take  the  sugar  that  drops,  and 
put  it  into  the  same  pan,  adding  a  little 
fresh  ;  refine  it  till  it  comes  to  the  twelfth 
degree  au  caste,  then  take  cochineal,  color 
sufficient  to  tin,-.-  the  almonds,  and  put  them 
therein  ;  give  them  a  few  turns  over  the  (ire 
jar,  ar.it  finish  as  at  lir.-t. 

ALMOND  SWEETMEATS  (YEL- 
LOW.) Blanch  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds, 
wash  them  in  cold  water,  and  wlien  quite  dry, 
pound  them  with  a  vtithVient  quantity  of  yolks 
of  eggs,  into  a  line  but  rather  still'  i 
add  to  them  a  pound  of  |x>wdcrrd  sugar  and 
tl>e  rinds  of  two  lemons  Crated  ;  knead  tlie 
patte  well  with  your  hands,  first  sprinkling 
tlio  table  with  sugar.  Form  tlie  paste  into 
what  figures  you  plea-.-,  nidi  as  fleur-de-lis, 
trefoil,  &c.  each  Iwing  about  thenize  and 
weight  of  a  macaroon.  PI. ice  tl)em  on  white 
pajx-r  and  on  an  iron  plate,  fry  them  in  a  mo- 
deraleU  hot  sto\e.  If  tl»ey  are  of  a  deep 
yellow,  they  are  sufficiently  done. — T|ICM- 
i  IMI-; ii-  111. iv  Ix;  still  further  ornamented 
in  tlie  follow  i ni;  manner: — I'.oil  -oni.- 
in  orange-flower  water  to  the  degree  c-.illud 


grande  plume,  and  as  soon  as  the  sweet- 
meat.- are  taken  from  the  stove  or  oven,  wash 
them  over  w  ith  a  light  brush  dipped  in  the 
sirup;  this  will  give  them  a  delicious  per- 
fume, and  they  may  then  be  called  it  la 
glace.  When  cohi,  take  tliem  from  tlie 
(Kiper  and  put  them  into  glasses  for  the  table. 

ALMONDS,  ROCK  OF  ALICAN- 
TE, SPANISH.  Clarify  honey,  and 
stir  into  it  as  many  blanched  almonds  as 
you  can  entangle.  Leave  it  to  cool.  This 
makes  a  pretty  crystaline  ornament  t'lr  the 
dessert  ;  it  is  also  called  Rock  of  Gibraltar. 

ALMOND  WAFERS.  Take  a  pound 
of  sweet  almonds,  blanch  and  pound  them, 
add  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  a  pinch  of 
orange-flowers  pralinee,  put  them  into  a 
la-in.  and  moisten  them  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  whites  of  c^gs  to  enable  you  to 
spread  the  paste  on  wafer  pa|x-r  with  the 
blade  of  a  Knife  (tlie  wafer  paper  must  be 
rubbed  with  virgin  wax  and  sweet  oil)  ;  lay 
tlie  pi  eviration  on  as  thin  as  possible  ;  chop 
some  sweet  almonds  very  small,  mix  them 
with  sugar,  and  strew  them  over  the  wafers 
and  [Hit  them  into  a  hot  oven  ;  when  about 
half  baked,  take  them  out  and  cut  them  in 
squares  ;  replace  them  a  minute  in  the  oven, 
take  them  out  again,  and-  press  Ihem  on  a 
stick  to  give  them  tlie  proper  form1;  as  soon 
a-  they  are  cold,  put  them  on  a  sievo.  Just 
liefore  they  are  served  they  should  be  Slightly 
wanned. 

ALMOND      COMPOTE,      GRF'.V.N. 

Take  the  peel  very  carefully  from  you  r  al- 
monds, and  put  them  with  water  on  tlie  >'irc. 
till  they  are  tender  ;  then  take  them  o(Ta*nd 
add  a  little  more  water  ;  when  nearly  co  Id 
put  tliem  on  tlie  fire  again,  but  do  not  lei* 
them  boil  ;  as  soon  as  you  find  the  head  of 
a  pin  will  penetrate  easily,  they  are  then 
sufficiently  done,  and  may  be  thrown  into 
cold  water;  and  when  tlie  fruit  is  quite  cold, 
drain  them.  In  the  meantime  put  some 
clarified  sugar  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils 
put  in  tlie  almonds  ;  boil  them  in  the  sugar 
about  twenty  times,  then  remove  them,  and 
let  the  almonds  stand  to  take  the  sugar  :  in 
about  two  hours'  lime  put  them  on  tlie  fire 
again,  and  Ixjil  tliem  up  a  dozen  times  ;  after 
which,  take  them  oft,  skim,  and  let.  them 
cool.  When  quite  cool  drain  and  put  the 
fruit  in  a  compotier.  If  tlie  sugar  should 
not  he  sufficiently  done,  boil  as  much  more 
a-  \oii  may  think  necessary  ;  squeeze  in  tlie 
juice  of  an  orange,  Ixiil  it  once  again,  and 
when  nearly  cold  strain  it  through  a  cloth 
into  the  compotier  over  tlie  almond*. 

ALMOND   NONPAREILS,  GREEN. 

Drain  some  green  almonds   that  have  been 


ANG 


256 


ANG 


preserved  in  brandy  ;  dip  them  one  by  one 
in  sugar  prepared  an  casse,  and  roll  them 
in  white,  or  any  other  colored  nonpareils, 
and  dry  them  in  a  stove,  or  gentle  oven. 

ALMOND  (GREEN)  PRESERVED. 
Put  some  water  into  a  saurepan,  with  two 
liandfuls  of  bran,  and  when  it  has  lx>!led  up 
twice,  throw  in  some  green  almonds  ;  let 
1  them  boil  up  once,  then  !;ike  them  out  with 
a  skimmer,  an  1  rub  them  well  in  your  han.ls 
to  take  off  the  down  ;  as  you  do  this,  throw 
them  into  cold  water  ;  then  boil  them  in 
water  till,  on  pricking  them,  a  pin  easily 
enters  and  they  shrink  :  then  clarify  some 
svigar,  a  pound  to  a  pound  of  fruit  ;  boil  up 
the  sirup  fjur  or  five  successive  days,  morn- 
ing and  evening,  without  the  fruit,  which 
you  leave  to  drain  upon  a  sieve  ;  lastly,  put 
the  fruit  into  a  pan,  and  when  rather  more 
than  lukewarm,  pour  the  sirup  over  it ;  when 
they  look  very  green  they  are  sufficiently 
done. 

ANDAYE  BRANDY.  An  ounce  of 
bruised  aniseed,  an  ounce  of  bruised  corian- 
der seed,  two  ounces  of  powdered  Florence 
iris,  the  j'.estes  of  two  oranges  ;  put  them 
with  thref  quarts  of  dislillc  I  brandy  into  the 
alembic  bain-marie  ;  dissolve  two  poun  Is 
and  a  lialf  of  sn^ar  in  two  pints  and  a  half 
of  clear  river  water,  ad  I  them  to  the  distilled 
liquejur,  pass  the  whole  through  a  strainer, 
and  put  into  buttles. 

VGELTCA  CAKES.  Take  four  oun- 
octs  of  angelica  powder,  and  two  pounds  of 
fi/ne  sugar.  Beat  up  the  white  of  an  egg 
MI i th  a  little  sifted  sugar,  until  it  is  of  the  con- 
/sistence  of  cream  cheese  ;  dissolve  the  sujjar 
/  in  a  skillet  and  skim  it  ;  when  it  has  boiled 
a  little,  throw  in  the  angelica,  and  boil  the 
sugar  to  petit  cassf,  then  take  it  from  the 
fire,  put  in  half  a  spoonful  of  the  twaten  e:jg, 
and  stir  it  quickly  until  the  sugar  i  ises,  then 
stop,  and  when  it  has  fallen  again,  stir  till 
it  rises  a  seron,)  time  ;  it  may  now  be  pour- 
ed into  moulds  or  papet  cases,  well  oiled  and 
sprinkled  with  sifted  sugar. 

ANGELICA  (ESSENCE  OF)  JELLY. 
Having  washed  and  well  dried  two  ounces  of 
angelica-roots  ;  cut  them  in  pieces  and  throw 
them  into  boiling  sirup,  (three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,)  with  an  ounce  of  bruised 
angelica  seeds  ;  cover  the  mixture  close,  and 
when  cold,  add  to  it  half  a  glass  of  kirsch- 
laasser,  and  pass  it  through  a  tammy;  then 
filter,  and  afterwards  put  to  it  an  ounce  of 
isinglass  :  stir  it  lightly  with  a  silver  spoon; 
pound  ten  pounds  of  ice,  and  put  it  into  a 
large  sieve  or  pan,  place  your  mould  in  the 
middle  of  the  ice,  taking  care  that  it  touches 
the  ice  in  every  part  ;  pour  the  jelly  into  the 


mould,  cover  it  with  a  saucepan  lid,  put  ice 
on  that,  and  let  it  stand  for  three  hours ;  after 
that  time  have  ready  a  saucepan  large  enough 
to  take  in  the  moult  easily  ;  fill  it  with  water 
so  warm  that  you  can  scarcely  bear  your  hand 
in  it ;  plunge  the  mould  in  so  as  to  allow  the 
water  to  pass  over  the  whole,  but  as  quickly 
as  possible,  anil  then  turn  the  jelly  into  your 
dish  for  table.  This  last  operation  should 
be  performed  with  great  agility.  Observe, 
in  making  these  kind  of  jellies,  that  no  tinned 
or  pewter  vessels  or  spoons  should  be  used, 
as  they  impart  a  violet  tinge  to  your  jellies, 
which  ought  to  be  of  the  color  of  the  ingre- 
dients employed,  as  for  instance  the,  above 
should  be  a  clear  light  green  color. 

ANGELICA  LIQUEUR.  Wash, 
scrape,  and  cut  in  small  pieces,  twelve  ounces 
of  fresh,  or  half  the  quantity  of  Bohemian 
angelica  roots,  and  infuse  them  for  a  week 
in  six  pints  of  brand  v  and  one  of  water,  with 
a  drachm  of  mace,  two  drachms  of  cinnamon, 
and  twelve  cloves  ;  at  the  end  of  that  time 
distil  it,  then  dissohe  three  pounds  of  sugar 
in  three  pints  of  water  ;  mix  it  with  the 
liqueur,  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  or  fil- 
ter it  through  paper.  Observe,  that  the  best 
brandy  lor  liriuiurs  is  that  which  is  made 
at  Montpelier,  EU  it  yields  more  in  distilla- 
tion than  the  Cogniac.  Take  notice  also 
that  the  first  drops  which  Till  from  the  alem- 
bic after  it  is  placed  on  the  stove,  must  not 
be  mixed  with  the  liqueur.  A  glass  should, 
therefore,  lie  placed  under  the  mouth  of  the 
alembic  to  receive  them,  and  when  about  a 
quarter  of  it  is  filled  you  may  remove  it,  and 
place  your  bottles  or  matrass.  The  phlegm, 
as  these  droppings  are  culled,  are  good  for 
nothing. 

ANGELICA  PASTE.  Take  young  and 
pithy  angelica  stalks,  boil  them  till  tender, 
drain  and  press  all  the  water  out ;  beat  them 
in  a  mortar  to  a  paste,  and  rub  it  through  a 
sieve.  Next  day  dry  it  over  the  lire,  and  to 
every  pound  of  paste  put  a  pound  of  powder- 
sugar.  When  the  |>aste  is  hot  add  the  sugar, 
stirring  it  till  thoroughly  mixed,  over  a  gentle 
fire.  Drop  it  on  plates,  ilnst  a  little  sugar 
over  them,  and  dry  them  in  a  stove. 

ANGELICA  PRESERVED.  Take  the 
stalks  of  angelica  when  of  a  good  size,  but 
before  they  have  run  to  seed  ;  clear  off  the 
leaves,  and  as  you  cut  (he  stalks  into  proper 
lengths  throw  them  into  water,  and  boil  them 
till  the  stalks  are  soft;  take  them  from  the 
fire,  and  put  them  into  cold  water  ;  take  off" 
the  skin,  and  again  put  them  into 'cold  water; 
then  drain  and  put  them  into  an  earthen  pan, 
and  pour  over  a  sufficient  quantity  of  clarified 
sugar  to  float  the  angelica.  In  twenty-four 
hours  boil  the  sugar  ten  or  a  dozen  times, 


ANI 


257 


ANI 


and  when  lukewarm  pour  it  over  tlie  stalks. 
Proceed  in  the  same  way  for  four  succeeding 
dajs  ;  alter  wliidi,  drain  tlif  stalks,  and  in 
tlie  meanwhile  boil  the  sugar  (adding  more, 
if  necessary )  to  the  degree  grande  perlt  ; 
put  tlie  angelica  to  this,  cover  it  close,  and 
let  it  boil  five  or  six  times.  Take  it  from 
tile  lire,  scum,  and  put  it  by  in  pots. 

ANGELICA     PRESERVED      DRY. 

Proceed  as  for  the  liquid,  until  you  have 
jxjnred  (lie  sujjar  aw  grand  perlt,  over  the 
angelica  ;  leave  it  for  a  day  in  tlie  sugar, 
then  drain  and  dry  it  on  slates,  or  iron  plalcs, 
in  a  stove.  - 

.\\cr.I.lCA  RATAFIA.  Take  six 
pints  of  brandy,  a  pint  of  river  water,  three 
pound-  of  sn^ar,  two  ounces  of  fresh  slithered 
Bageltca-rooU,  the  sune  (jiianlity  of  angelica 
see.l  ;  mace  and  clo\e,  a  drachm  of  each. 
\\';t.h  and  dry  the  roots  well,  cut  them  in 
slices,  ami  put  them,  with  tlie  seeds  and 
spices  bruised,  into  the  brandy,  to  infuse  for 
twenty  d:i\s  ;  tlien  strain  it,  and  lumng  ad- 
ded to  it  the  sugar  dissolw-d  in  river  water, 
filler  anil  Untie  your  ratafia. 

A N<  ;ELJCA  RATAFIA,  strip tiw  an- 

geliea  stalks  nf  their  leaves,  and  cut  them 
into  .-in. ill  pieces,  which  put  into  the  best 
brandy  and  water,  in  the  proportion  of  four 
litiex  of  U-.tndy  and  two  of  water  to  one 
pound  of  angelica,  and  four  pounds  of  sugar 
to  the  name  quantity  ;  add  cloves  and  cinna- 
mon ;  lei  it  stand  six  weeks,  then  filter  und 
bottle  it. 

ANGELICA  WATER.  Wash  .  i.-ht 
handfuls  of  angelica  leaves,  cut,  and  lay  tlx-in 
on  a  table  to  dry.  \Vheii  (juite  dry,  put 
them  in  an  earthen  |xit  with  a  gallon  of  strong 
wine  lees.  Ijct  it  stand  twenty-four  hours, 
stir  it  twice  in  dial  time,  iln-n  put  it  into  a 
warm  still  or  alembic  ;  draw  off  into  bottles, 
<  '.\en  .1  with  p.i | x-r  pricked  in  holes,  anil  let 
them  stand  thus  two  or  three  days.  Sweeten 
it,  and  when  it  is  settled,  bottle,  and  .-top  it 
close. 

ANISEED,  OIL  OF.     Is  made  like  ani- 

wed  water,  the  only  dilleience  is,  that  an 
additional  pound  of  sugar  is  necessary  to 
mrikc  the  simp. 

AMSE    PETIT    PAINS.      Put   two 
glasses  of  water  and  two  ounce?  of  fresh  but- 
ter in'-. i  .-(ew|iaii.aiid  when  the  liquid  boils 
.  take  it  from  the  tire,  and   mix  with  it  six 
Winces  of  sifted  flour;   amalgamate  it  thor- 
oughly, s.i  that   it  may  lie   quite   free  from 
lumps  ;  then  t\\y  it  over  the  tire.     Take  i 
out  of  tlie  saucepan,  and  add  to  it  two  eggs 
and  two  ounces  of  powder-funr;   mix  then 
22* 


well  in,  and  then  put  in  two  more  eggs  and 
the  ztste  of  a  lemon  minced  fine  :  when 
ihese  are  also  well  incorporated,  add  another 
egg  or  two,  if  tlie  puste  (which  should  lie  ra- 
her  firm,)  will  bear  them.  Sprinkle  your 
r.iste  slab  with  flour,  cut  the  paste  into 
lieees,  each  the  size  of  a  walnut;  roll  these 
with  as  little  flour  as  possible,  to  about  three 
incites  long,  and  as  you  roll  them  plnce  them 
on  a  baking-tin,  two  inches  apart;  dorez 
and  bake  them  in  a  tolerably  warm  oven  till 
they  are  firm.  Then  cut  some  anise  into 
fillets,  boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to 
casse,  and  the  moment  it  re-aches  (hat  de- 
gree set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  that  the 
sugar  may  not  lose  its  whiteness;  dip  the 
top  and  one  side  of  each  petit  pain  in  the 
Mi*ar  .is  quick  as  possible,  and  as  you  take 
them  out,  strew  the  anise  over  them  lightly. 
Red  anise  is  also  used  for  these  petit 
pains. 

ANISEED   RATAFIA.     To  make  a 

quart  of  this  liqueur,  Ixiil  a  |xiiind  of  sugar 
with  a  demisetier  of  water,  until  the  sugar 
is  quite  clear;  then  lieat  another  demisetier 
of  water,  and  put  in  it  three  ounces  of  anise; 
take  it  from  the  lire  before  it  boils;  let  it 
stand  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then  pour  it 
with  three  pints  of  brandy  into  llie  sugar; 
mix  all  well  together,  and  then  pour  into  a 
\e.--el,  which  must  be  closed  tight,  and 
placed  in  the  sun.  Let  il  stand  three  weeks, 
and  then  bottle  it. 

ANISEED  WATER.  Choose  eight 
minces  of  new  green  anise,  sift  it  well  to 
free  it  from  the  dust,  and  then  infuse  in  six 
pints  of  brandy,  with  the  scestes  of  three 
lemons,  and  half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon;  in 
a  week's  time  distil  it  over  a  moderate  fire, 
put  a  pint  of  water  into  the  alembic;  take 
care  to  collect  the  phlegm  Ix-l'.re  you  draw 
oft'lhe  aniseed  water.  Dissolve  three  pounds 
of  sugar  in  three  pints  of  water.  As  the 
anise  contains  an  acid  salt,  which  render* 
this  liqueur  milky,  the  following  proceeding 
is  necessary: — Reserve  a  pint  of  the  water 
from  that  in  which  you  dissolved  the  sugar, 
and  mix  with  the  white  of  three  or  four 
eggs,  well  whippet],  and  while  the  sirup's 
hot  put  to  it  this  egg-water  and  the  aniseed 
water;  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  the  whole 
is  hot  without  boiling;  then  put  it  into  a 
glass  jar,  cork  it  well,  and  let  it  stand;  the 
next  day  bottle  and  filler  il. 

ANISETTE  DE  BORDEAUX.  Take 
two  ounces  of  green  aniseed,  half  a  pound 
of  aniseed,  two  ounces  of  coriander,  and  the 
same  of  fennel  seeds.  Bruise,  and  put  them, 
with  sixteen  pints  of  brandy,  into  an  alem- 
bic bain-marie.  "  Then  d'issolvo  thirteen 
pounds  of  sugar  in  two  quart*  of  river  water. 


APP 


258 


APR 


which  must  be  put  to  your  liqueur  when  dis- 
tilled. Filter  and  bottle  it. 

APPLE  FRITTERS.  Turn  twelve 
email  apples,  cut  them  into  halve*,  and  boil 
them  in  simp,  then  leave  them  to  cool. 
When  they  are  cold,  make  an  extremely 
thin  crust  with  brioche  paste.  Make  a 
fritter  for  each  half  apple,  then  fry  them  and 
finish  the  same  as  Fritters  d  la  Dauphine. 

Pears  cut  into  quarters  are  made  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  above. 

APPLES  AND  ALMONDS  LITTLE 
CAKES.  Proceed  the  same  as  above  till 
the  marmalade  is  spread  over  the  under- 
crust,  then  cover  it  with  almonds  cut  in  fil- 
lets, press  them  in  lightly;  mask  them «villi 
powder-sugar  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
As  soon  as  cold,  cut  your  gateaux  accord- 
ing to  your  fancy,  either  round,  oblong,  lo- 
zenge, or  crescent-shaped. 

APPLE  MARMALADE,  LITTLE 
CAKES.  Make  a  marmalade  of  twenty-four 

apples  in  the  usual  way,  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pot  of 
apricots,  and  the  zeste  of  a  lemon,  shred 
fine.  Make  your  paste,  and  proceed  as  di- 
recte  !  lor  IVtits  (iateaux  glares  of  apricots. 
Sprinkle  them  (uhen  marked)  with  powder- 
sugar.  Bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  and 
finish  them. 

APPLE  PETIT  GATEAUX  WITH 

PISTACHIOS.  Make  an  under-crust  of  the 
same  size  and  thickness  as  directed  for  petits 
g&teanx  glacts  of  apricots,  and  cover  it 
with  apple  marmalade;  when  baked,  mash 
the  apples  with  a  little  apricot  marmalade, 
and  strew  over  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pis- 
tachio nuts  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  then  put 
it  in  the  oven  again  for  a  few  minutes  to  dry 
the  apricots.  When  cold  cut  them  into  the 
usual  forms. 

APPLES  AND  PISTACHIOS.  Pre- 
pare and  toss  up  a  dozen  apples  for  this 
gateau  with  apples  and  raisins,  with  the  ad- 
dition of  two  ounces  of  sugar,  and  instead 
of  the  zeste  of  an  orange,  grate  that  of  a 
lemon,  and  put  three  ounces  of  pistachio  nuts 
blanched,  in  the  place  of  the  raisins.  Pro- 
ceed in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  that 
recipe,  strewing  on  the  dome  of  the  gateau 
pistachio  and  sugar,  each  nut  cut  into  six 
pieces;  and  when  the  crown  is  put  round 
the  band,  place  a  pistachio  nut  in  the  mid- 
dle of  each  meringue,  bake  it  of  a  light 
color  in  a  slow  oven,  and  serve  it  hot. 

APPLE  MERINGUEES.  Put  some 
apple  marmalade  on  a  dish,  in  a  pyramid: 


whip  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  froth,  mix 
with  them  two  spoonfuls  of  powder-sugar 
and  a  little  lemon-peel  chopped  extremely 
small;  decorate  your  apples  with  this  prep- 
aration, glaze  them  with  sugar,  and  color 
them  in  the  oven. 

APPLE  MERINGUE.  Laya«mta/e 
paste  in  a  tart  pan,  e<jg  and  prick  it  all  over, 
and  bake  it;  lay  in  it  a  puree  of  apples,  and 
finish  with  white  of  egg,  as  for  a  la  Turque; 
serve  it  hot. 

APPLES  PUREE.  Peel  and  core  a 
dozen  or  more  good  baking  apples ;  set  them 
over  the  fire  to  stew  with  some  clarified 
sugar  and  a  small  bit  of  letnou-peel;  when 
soft,  stir  them  well  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
and  put  in  a  spoonful  of  apricot  jam;  stir  it 
at  times  till  the  jam  is  mixed  and  the  apples 
thicken,  then  rub  the  whole  through  a 
tammy. 

APPLES,    SOUFFLE     PARISIEN. 

Make  a  marmalade  of  three  dozen  apples, 
half  a  poun.l  of  powder-wigar,  the  peel  of  a 
lemon,  and  a  glass  of  water;  dry  it  as  much 
as  you  possibly  can,  for  on  that  the  good  ap- 
pearance of  the  souffle  parisien  chiefly 
de|H'iids;  (lien  put  it  into  a  large  stewpan. 
Whip  the  whiter!  of  fifteen  eggs  to  a  strong 
froth,  with  a  |x>und  of  powder-sugar.  Mix 
a  quarter  of  this  at  first,  with  the  apple  mar- 
malade, then  stir  the  whole  together,  and 
pour  it  into  a  croustade  prepared  as  usual. 
(See  SOUFFLE.)  Bake  it  for  an  hour  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Serve  it  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble after  taking  it  from  the  oven.  Glaze  it 
with  powder-sugar. 

APPLE  SIRUP.  Take  six  apples, 
pare  and  cut  tlicin  into  small  pieces;  put 
them  into  a  matrass  with  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  sugar  and  two  glasses  of  water; 
stop  it  close  and  place  it  in  a  bain  marie, 
and  leave  it  about  i\vo  hours,  letting  the 
water  be  boiling;  move  the  matrass  fre- 
quently without  taking  it  out  of  the  water; 
this  must  be  done  carefully  lest  it  should 
break  on  being  exposed  to  the  cold  air; 
when  done  put  out  the  fire,  and  let  the  mat- 
rass cool  before  you  take  it  out.  When  the 
sirup  is  nearly  cold,  flavor  it  with  lemon- 
juice,  and  add  a  spoonful  of  spirits  of  lemon 
or  cinnamon,  orange-flower  water,  or  what- 
ever else  you  may  choose.  If  any  drega 
should  arise,  let  it  stand  for  some  hours 
longer,  and  then  gently  pour  the  sirup  into 
bottles.  Great  care  must  be  taken  to  pre- 
vent its  being  muddy. 

APRICOTS  BOTTLED.  Press  die 
quantity  of  ripe  apricots  you  may  require 


APR 


259 


APR 


through  a  horse-hair  sieve;  put  the  pulp  into  j 
Kittles,  cork   them  very  close,  anil  tie  them 
over;   place  these  iMlles  upright  in  a  lame 
Kaucepan,  with  hay  between  to  prevent  their 
touching ;    put  the  saucepan  on  the  lire,  and 
fill  it  with  water.     When  the  water  is  near 
boiling,  take   it  off  and  let  it  stand  till  the 
bottles  are  cold;   then  put  them  in  a  cellar, 
without  touching  each  other,  until  wanted,  j 
when  they  will  be  found  as  good  to  use  as 
frc.-li  fruit.     The  apricots  may  also  be  pre-  j 
served  whole  by  tin-  game  means. 

APRICOTS  IN  BRANDY.  Choose 
your  apricots  wlion  quite  ri|je,  let  them  l>e 
free  from  spots,  rnli  them  carefully  with  a 
linen  cloth,  to  take  off  the  down.  Wei^h 
your  fruit,  and  to  each  pound  put  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  ofsninr.  Clarify  it,  and  boil  it 
to  the  decree  grand  ptrle,  tlien  put  in  the 
Hprin>t>:  Imil  them  three  or  four  times,  tak- 
ini;  c.ue  tu  turn  them  fni|iii>ntly,  that  they 
may  lake  the  suijar  in  all  parts.  Take  theiii 
off  the  lire,  and  put  them  one  by  one  into 
Lrl  i--  li»li'e<;  the  sirup  In-in^  by  this  lime  i 
nearly  col  I.  jvmr  llie  brandy  (three  dfrni't-  ' 
tiert  to  each  pound)  into  it  by  degrees,  stir- 
ring coii-lan!l\  lo  mix  it  well  with  the  .-imp. 
When  thoroughly  incorporated,  pour  it  into 
the  bottles,  t!ir  fruit  at  lirst  will  float;  but 
when  the  brandy  and  mi-Tar  have  soaked  in 
thcv  will  sink  to  the  tiottoin;  tliey  are  then 
fit  to  eat. 

APRICOT      COMPOTE,     GREEN. 

(ireen  apricots  are  done  exactly  the  same  as 
green  almonds.  See  ALMONDS. 

APRICOT     COMPOTE.      Peel,   cut, 

nnd  take  the  stones  from  your  fruit,  anil  |xit 
them  on  the  fire  in  a  little  water,  and  when 
they  rixe  tliey  are  muTicieiiily  done,  and  may 
be  taken  out,  cooled,  and  drained.  Then 
put  them  into  a  little  clarified  sugar  and  give 
them  three  or  f.mr  Imilings;  skim  them  well, 
and  then  put  your  li  nit  aside;  boil  the  sugar 
alone  fiur  or  live  tim«-<  more,  and  pour  it 
over  (lie  apricots.  When  cold  place  them 
in  the  rompn 

Al'RICOT   CONSERVE.    Take  half- 
ripe  apn  ols,  |*-el  and  cut   them  into   thin 
s  till-in   iner  a  gentle  fire;   to    four 
:  fruit  put  one  pound  of  sugar,  boil- 
ed to  tl«?  degree  la  plume  forte;  when  the 
••iii:  ir  IT-   nearly  col.l   put  in   llic  fniit,  taking 
tore  to  K  '•  it  well  with  a  spoon,  lh.it  they 
may  be  wj|l  incorporated. 

APRICOTS  PARISIEN.  Take  five 
dozen  vei\  line  apricot.-,  "'lit  them  in  h.-ilf, 
and  put  ill.  .n,  a  few  at  .1  time,  over  the  fire, 
with  half  a  p.  inn  1  of  sugar  an. I  fmr  glxsees 
of  water;  a*  soon  as  you  find  the  peel  will 


come  off  easily,  take  them  out  and  drain 
them,  and  put  fresh  apricots  into  the  sirup, 
and  proceed  the  same  until  all  are  pealed, 
then  reduce  the  sirup  to  the  usual  consis- 
tence. Put  a  pound  of  rice,  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  the  .-  HIM-  of  sugar,  on  which  grate 
t  heresies  of  four  lemons,  a  little  i-alt,  eight 
or  nine  glasses  of  milk,  and  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  raisins,  into  a  saucepan,  and 
when  it  Ixjils  take  it  from  the  fire  and  put  it 
on  hot  cinders,  stirring  it  occasionally  for 
an  hour,  when,  if  the  rice  be  quite  soft,  mix 
the  yolks  often  eggs  with  it. 

APRICOTS  IN  JELLY.  Pare  and 
stone  your  apricots,  scald  them  a  little,  lay 
them  in  a  pan,  and  cover  them  with  clari- 
fied .sugar;  next  day  drain  the  sinip,  and 
boil  it  smooth,  then  add  the  apricots  and 
Uiil  together;  the  following  day  make  a 
jelly  with  codlings,  boiling  some  apricots 
amon-;  them,  to  give  a  better  flavor.  When 
the  jellv  is  done  put  in  the  other  fruit  with 
the  simp,  and  boil  altogether,  skiui  it  well 
and  put  it  in  glasses. 

APRICOT  MARMALADE.  Peel  the 
apricots,  and  take  out  the  stones;  to  each 
pound  of  fruit  put  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  clarified  sugar,  boil  it  to  the  degree  grot 
boulet,  then  put  in  the  apricots,  boil  both  to- 
gether: when  it  flows  readily  it  may  be  put 
into  pots. 

APRICOT  RATAFIA.  Peel  and  cut 
into  pieces  as  many  ripe  apricots  as  you 
may  require,  and  boil  them  in  while  wine 
(about  a  pint  to  four  dozen;)  strain  and 
mix  it  with  an  equal  quantity  of  brandy; 
put  the  whole  into  a  jar,  with  the  kernels 
bruised,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  each  pint.  Let  it  infuse  for  three  weeks, 
then  lil;er  and  bottle  it. 

APRICOT   SWEETMEAT,   WHOLK 

AND  DRY.     Choose  fine  firm  apricots,  make 
a  little  opening  at  the  top  to  take  out  the 
stone,  put  them  into  cold  water,  then  blanch 
them  over  tlie  fire;   when  tliey  begin  to  boil, 
take  out  those  which  are  soft,  throw  them 
into  cold  water,  and  drain  them.     In   die 
meantime,  prc|Kirc  some  clarified  sugar  to 
petit  listf..     When  it  boils  put  in  the  apri- 
cots, and  Ixiil  up  a  few  times  together.     The 
next  day  separate   the  sugar  from  the  fruit, 
boil  &  la  nappe,  and  then  pour  it  over  the 
_;.iin;   the  follow  ing  day  boil  tlie  su- 
gar petit  perl£,  then  add  the  fruit,  and  boil 
together;    tlie  fourth  day  drain  them;    and, 
having  placed  tlviii  on  iron  plates,  sprinkle 
them  with  sugar  U-Ioie  you  put  tliem   into 
in  dry;   when  dry,  place  in  boxes 
.  placing  a  sheet  of  paper  between 
:\er. 


BAR 


260 


BAR 


n. 


BADIANE,  INDIAN.  Take  a  pound 
of  starred  anise,  pound  and  infuse  it  in  six 
quarts  of  good  brandy  for  a  week,  when 
add  to  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  and 
distil  it.  Dissolve  seven  pounds  and  a 
half  of  sugar  in  seven  pints  of  water,  and 
add  h  to  the  distilled  liqueur.  Stir  it  well, 
strain  and  bottle  it.  This  is  also  called 
Badiane  Cream.  Some  persons  color  it 
with  a  little  cochineal,  it  is  then  called  Oil 
of  Badiane. 

BALM  WINE.  Boil  twenty  pounds  of 
lump  sugar  in  four  gallons  and  a  half  of 
•water  gently  for  an  hour,  and  put  it  in  a 
tub  to  cool.  Bruise  two  pounds  of  the 
tops  of  green  balm,  and  put  them  into  a 
barrel  with  a  little  new  yeast,  and  when 
the  Birup  is  nearly  cold  pour  it  on  the 
balm.  Stir  it  well  together, ,  and  let  it 
stand  twenty-four  hours,  stirring  frequently ; 
bring  il  up,  and  when, it  has  stood  for  six 
weeks,  bottle  it.  Put  a  lump  of  sugar  into 
each  bottle ;  cork  it  tight.  The  longer  it 
is  kept  the  better  it  will  be. 

BALSAM,  SIRUP  OF.  Put  an  ounce 
of  balsam  of  tolu  into  a  quart  of  spring  wa- 
ter, and  boil  them  two  hours ;  add  a  pound 
of  white  pounded  sugar-candy,  and  boil  it 
half  an  hour  longer.  Take  out  the  bal- 
sam, and  strain  die  sirup  twice;  when  cold, 
bottle  il. 

BARBADOES    CREAM.      Take  the 

zests  of  three  fine  cedrats,  two  drachms  of 
cinnamon,  and  two  of  mace,  and  put  them 
into  three  quarts  of  brandy  ;  close  the  ves- 
sel hermetically,  and  let  it  infuse  for  a 
week,  then  distil  it  in  un  alembic.  Dis- 
solve over  the  fire  three  pounds  of  sugar  in 
a  quart  of  pure  river  water,  add  to  it  half  a 
pound  of  orange-dower  water,  work  the 
mixture,  and  filter  it  through  a  straining 
bag  into  bottles  for  use. 

BARBADOES  WATER.  Take  the 
outer  rind  of  eight  large  florcnline  citrons, 
half  an  ounce  of  bruised  cinnamon,  and  a 
gallon  of  rectifed  spirit;  distil  in  the  bain 
marie;  dissolve  two  pounds  of  sugar  in  a 
quart  of  water ;  mix  it  with  the  distilled 
liquor ;  filter  and  bottle  it  for  use. 

BARBADOES  WATER  AMBER- 
COLORED.  Infuse  the  yellow  rind  of 
six  bergamots.  half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon, 
and  two  drachms  of  doves  bruised,  for  six 


days  in  a  gallon  of  rectified  spirit;  then 
add  a  drachm  of  saffron,  and  let  the  whole 
stand  six  days  longer.  Dissolve  two  pounds 
of  sugar  in  a  quart  of  water,  add  it  to  the 
infusion,  and  filter  for  use. 

BARBERRY  BISCUITS.  Press  the 
juice  through  a  sieve  from  two  pounds  of 
barberries,  and  mix  with  it  five  pounds  of 
sifted  sugar;  whisk  the  whites  of  four  eggs 
and  add  them  to  the  fruit ;  prepare  some 
square  paper  cases,  fill  them  with  the  jam, 
make  them  quite  smooth,  lay  them  on 
sieves,  and  put  them  into  a  stove,  and  let 
them  remain  six  or  eight  days.  When 
perfectly  dry,  take  away  the  papers  :  keep 
them  in  a  dry  place. 

BARBERRIES,  TO  CANDY.    Take 

the  barberries  out  of  the  preserve,  and 
wash  off  the  sirup  in  warm  water  ;  then 
sift  over  them  some  fine  sugar,  and  set 
them  in  an  oven,  oft°n  moving  them,  and 
strewing  sugar  upon  them  until  they  are  dry. 

BARBERRY    DROPS.      Cut  off  the 

black  tops,  and  roast  the  fruit  Ijefore  the 

fire  till   soft  enough  to  pulp  with  a   silver 

i  •         •  i  •       i     • 

spoon  through  a  sieve  into  a  china  basin, 

then  set  the  basin  in  a  saucepan  of  water 
the  size  of  the  top  of  the  basin,  and  stir 
the  barberries  till  they  become  thick. 
When  cold,  put  to  every  pint,  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  the  best  sugar  pounded  as  fine  as 
possible.  Beat  the  fruit  and  sugar  together 
for  two  hours  and  a  half  (or  more  for  a 
large  quantity),  then  drop  it  on  sheets  of 
white  thick  paper.  If,  when  you  drop,  it 
runs,  there  is  not  sugar  enough,  and  it  will 
look  rough  if  you  put  too  much. 

BARBERRY  ICE.  Put  some  barber- 
ries  into  a  pan  without  water,  set  it  over 
a  gentle  fire,  stirring  them "  constantly ; 
when  warm,  pass  them  through  a  sieve, 
into  a  pan,  add  to  the  liquor  clarified  sugar ; 
if  too  thick,  put  a  little  water,  but  no  lem- 
on-juice, as  the  barberries/.'are  sufficiently 
acid  without ;  then  put  it  into  the  sabotiert 
to  congeal. 

BARBERRY  ICE  CREAM.  Put  a 
large  spoonful  of  barberry  jam  into  a  pint 
of  cream  ;  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a 
little  cochineal ;  stir  it  well,  and  finish  as 
directed,  see  ICE. 

BARBERRY  ICE  WATER.    Mix  one 

spoonful  of  barberry  jam  with  die  juice  of 
a  lemon,  a  pint  of  water,  and  a  little  coch- 
ineal; pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  freeze  it; 
take  care  that  it  is  thick  and  smooth  be- 
fore you  put  in  moulds. 


BAR 


261 


HER 


HARRERRY  MARCHPANE.  Tnke 
three  pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  two  pounds 
and  a  half  of  s-ii^;ir,  and  u  pound  of  bar- 
berries ;  pound  the  almonds  to  a  paste,  mix 
them  witli  the  su^;ir  lx>iled  to  petit  boule, 
and  then  add  tlic  juice  of  the  bat  tarries 
strained  ;  stir  them  together  well,  and  place 
them  on  hot  ashes,  stirriii^  them  continual- 
ly until  the  paste  is  formed;  then  put  it  on 
a  talile  sprinkled  with  sugar  and  let  it  cool; 
spread  it  out  nlxwt  tlie  thickness  of  a  crown 
piece,  cut  it  into  various  forms,  place  them 
on  sheets  of  pa|x>r,  and  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven  and  glaze  tliem.  You  may 
use  any  other  fruit  you  think  proper. 

BARBERRY  PASTILE.  Dissolve 
half  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon  in  a  glass  of 
water,  strain  it  in  a  cloth  pr  bag,  and  put 
it  into  a  mortar,  with  a  spoonful  of  bar- 
berry marmalade  ;  mix  it  well,  and  add  as 
much  pnu  !c  i--;i_;:ii  as  will  make  it  into  a 
malleable  pasie;  you  may  also  put  in  a  lit- 
tle cochineal  dissolved  ;  form  it  into  what 
shapes  you  ]•! 

HAKHF.KUIKS     PRESERVED      IN 

P.rsi  in .s.    Clim.se  those  liailx-rries  which 
have  tin-  '-,  which  may  be  ex- 

tracted   carefully  will*    the    nib    of  a  pen. 
'  \  nir    fruit,    and    mix-   it    will)    an 

equal  weight  of  sugar  boiled  to  petit  boule; 
boil  them  together  two  or  three  times,  and 
skim  it.     St  t  it  a*i(U>  in  an  earfi 
until  the  next  (lay,  when   it  may  be  put  in 
pots  and  covered. 

i:\UriERRY  WAFERS.  Press  out 
the  juice  In  mi  as  many  barberries  as  you 
may  require,  and  mix  it  with  powder-eu- 
gar,  and  the  white  of  one  egg,  and  stir  it 
up  with  a  wooden  or  silver  spoon,  to  a 

•y  a  sheet  of  wafer  paper  on 

a  baking  pl.ite,  an  I  >pread  your  paste  over 

it  very  tliin  with  a  knife;  cut  it  into  twelve 

nid   put   them  round  a  stick   (the 

;  in  a  hot  stove  to  curl ;  when 
half  cuile.l,  lake  them  oil"  carefully,  and  set 
them  up  i  i)  in  ays  in  asie\e;  let  them  stand 
for  a  whole  day  in  a  hot  stove. 

P.AIMIERRY  WATER.     Put  two  large 

spoonfuls  of  barberry  jam,  the  juice  of  two 
lemons  and  a  gill  of  sirup  in  a  !•  i 
dilute  it  with  water;  add  a  little  cochineal, 
and  if  not  rich  enough,  more  sirup;  strain 
it  through  a  fine  sieve. 

It.\M.i:V  srCAIJ.  <  -larifj -two  pounds 
of  sugar,  nut  boil  it  to  caramel  height,  in 
a  deep  c  ppi  i  \.-—e|  with  a  lip  ;  pour  it  in 
Mraii;lit  liaes  aliout  an  inch  thick,  on  a 
maioie  i-l.il)  prc\inn-ly  ruhtad  with  butter. 
Whilst  hut,  take  each  end  of  the  stripe  of 


sugar  and  twist  it;  when  cold  cut  it  into 
proper  lengths  and  put  them  by  in  glasses. 
They  must  be  kept  in  a  dry  place. 

BARLEY  SUGAR  DROPS.  Proceed 
as  for  barley  sugar.  Have  ready  a  large 
sheet  of  white  paper,  covered  with  a  smooth 
layer  of  sifted  sugar.  Pour  out  the  boiled 
sugar  in  drops  the  size  of  a  shilling;  when 
cold,  fold  them  separately  in  paper,  a  few 
drops  of  tlic  essence  of  ginger  or  lemon  will 
improve  the  flavor. 

BARLEY  SIRUP.  Make  of  a  pound  of 
barley  three  quarts  of  barley  water;  strain 
out  the  barley,  and  put  to  the  water  a  hand- 
ful of  scabious,  tonnentil,  hyssop,  agrimony, 
horehound,  maiden  hair,  panicle,  betons, 
burage,  buglose,  rosemary,  marigoi 
violets  and  cowslips,  of  each  a  pint,  when 
picked;  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned,  half 
a  pound  of  figs  cut,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
dates  stoned;  half  a  (xiund  of  green  liquor- 
ice, caraway,  fennel  and  aniseed,  of  each 
one  ounce,  hartshorn,  ivy,  elecampane 
root?,  of  each  an  ounce ;  the  roots  of  fen- 
nel, asparagus,  couchgrass,  polipodium, 
and  oak  parsley,  of  each  a  handful  :  clean, 
bruise  the  seeds,  slice  the  roots,  and  put  all 
into  the  barley  water,  cover  close,  and 
boil  gently  for  twelve  hours  ;  then  strain 
and  press  out  the  juice,  and  let  it  stand 
twenty-four  hours ;  when  clear,  add  to  it 
rose  water  and  hyssop,  half  a  pint  of  each, 
and  a  pint  of  clarified  juice  of  coltsfoot,  a 
drachm  of  saffron,  three  pints  of  the  best 
honey,  and  as  many  pounds  of  sugar  as 
quarts  of  liquor,  boil  this  an  hour  and  a 
half,  keeping  it  clean  scummed,  then  bot- 
tle it,  cork  it  well,  and  put  by  for  use. 

BARLEY  WATER.  Put  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  pearl-lsu  ley  into  two  quarts 
of  water,  let  it  boil,  skim  it  very  clean, 
boil  half  away,  and  strain  it  off.  Sweeten 
according  to  taste,  and  put  in  two  glasses 
of  white  wine,  or  some  lemon-juice.  Drink 
it  warm. 

BERGAMOT  DROPS.  Mix  the  iuice 
of  four  or  five  lemons,  and  some  sifted  su- 
gar, with  a  wooden  spoon;  add  to  this 
twenty  dro|»  of  essence  of  bergamot ;  mix 
it  well  in,  and  having  mined  it  over  the 
fire  three  or  four  minutes,  drop  it  about 
the  size  of  a  sixpence  on  writing  paper, 
and  let  them  stand  till  cold. 

BERGAMOT  WAFERS.  Squeeze 
six  lemons  into  a  basin,  and  mix  some 
silied  sugar,  essence  of  bergamot,  and  the 
white  of  an  efg,  with  the  juice ;  beat 
them  together  till  very  white;  if  it  becomes 
too  thick,  add  the  juice  of  another  lemon; 


262 


BIS 


spread  your  paste,  and  dry  'diem  as  bar- 
berry wafers. 

BERGAMOT  WATER.  To  the  rinds 
of  three  bergamots,  put  a  gallon  of  proof 
spirit,  and  two  quarts  of  water ;  draw  off 
one  gallon  by  the  tain  marie,  and  sweeten 
with  sugar. 

BERGAMOT  WATER.  Take  three 
gills  of  sirup,  the  juice  of  six  lemons,  and 
-when  diluted  sufficiently  with  water,  add 
a  tea-spoonful  of  essence  of  bergamot. 
Strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  for  use. 

BERGAMOT  WATER  ICE,  Stir 
together  the  juice  of  three  lemons,  two  gills 
of  sirup,  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  essence  of  bergamot,  strain 
and  freeze  it. 

BETONY,  CONSERVE  OF.  Take 
a  pound  of  betony,  three  pounds  of  \mf  su- 
gar, beat  them  in  a  stone  mortar;  boil  the 
sugar  with  two  quarts  of  betony  water  to 
the  thickness  of  a  simp,  then  mix  them  to- 

f  ether  by  little   and   little,   over  a  gentle 
re,  make  it  into  a  conserve,  and  keep  it  in 
glasses. 

BISCUITS.  Lny  the  rind  of  a  lemon 
in  boiling  water,  till  it  l>e  tender;  take  half 
-a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  and  blanch  them 
in  cold  water,  and  two  ounces  of  gum-drag- 
on, which  soak  in  fair  water;  tli*n  jw::::,! 
the  almonds,  putting  in  as  you  pound,  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  hollow;  pound 
the  lemon  in  a  stone  mortar  by  itself,  and 
put  the  gum  and  the  lemon  into  the  almonds, 
and  mix  them  well  together;  then  beat  a 
pound  of  fine  sugar  in  a  mortar  with  the  al- 
monds, gum  and  lemon,  and  afterwards  add 
two  pounds  more  of  fine  sugar,  stirring  it 
with  a  spoon,  then  roll  it  up  in  little  rolls, 
•and  lay  them  upon  white  papers,  and  set 
them  in  the  oven. 

BISCUITS  IN  CASES,  Prepare 
your  mixture  the  same  as  for  spoon  biscuits, 
-and  fill  some  little  round  or  square  cases 
with  it.  TlH-n  with  the  rolling  pin  crush 
some  fine  sugar,  but  not  to  a  powder,  and 
«trew  it  over  your  biscuits,  which  place  on 
a.  cop|>er  plate,  and  when  the  sugar  begins 
to  dissolve  put  them  in  a  gentle  oven,  at  the 
mouth  of  which  put  a  shovel  full  of  burning 
•coals  to  crystallize  the  sugar;  and  when  that 
•assumes  the  appearance  of  little  pearls,  re- 
move the  coals  and  close  the  oven.  These 
biscuits  will  require  from  twenty  to  twenty- 
live  minutes  baking. 

BISCUITS  ICED.  Beat  up  the  white 
of  eiglit,  and  the  ^olks  of  six  eggs,  with  a 


pound  of  fine  powdered  sugar,  for  two  hours. 
Have  ready  fourteen  ounces  of  well-dried 
sifted  flour  ;  when  the  oven  is  ready  and 
your  plates  buttered,  mix  the  flour  as"  quick 
as  possible  with  the  eggs,  &c,,  and  lay  tlie 
biscuits  on  the  plates  ;  you  may  add  a  little 
musk  and  ambergris.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

BISCUIT,  ITALIAN.  Bake  a  biscuit, 
made  like  Iced  biscuit,  in  a  plain,  round 
mould  ;  cut  it  across,  in  slices  an  inch 
thick ;  pour  on  each  slice  a  spoonful  of  true 
maraschino,  and  when  they  have  imbibed 
this,  place  them  in  their  proper  form,  and 
mask  the  whole,  either  with  white  of  egg  and 
sugar,  as  biscuit  with  sweetmeats,  or  with 
apricot  marmalade,  on  which  strew  pounded 
macaroons. 

BISCUITS  OF  ITALIAN  WATER. 

Whisk  up  sis  eggs,  and  an  equal  weight  of 
powder-sugar,  for  half  an  hour.  Take  six 
more  eggs  and  their  weight  of  flour,  and  mix 
all  together,  and  lay  this  mixture  on  paper,  in 
cakes  the  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  about 
two  inches  diameter  ;  lay  them  quite  flat, 
and  do  not  let  them  touch.  The  oven  should 
be  hot;  five  minutes  will  bake  them.  When 
cold,  wet  the  under  side  of  the  paper,  and 
they  will  then  remove  easily. 

BISCUITS,  JUDGES.  Break  six 
eggs  into  a  basin,  and  whisk  them  well 
for  five  minutes,  add  half  a  pound  of  pow- 
<!ci' -sugar,  hud  whisk  again  for  ten  minutes' 
longer;  put  some  caraway-seeds  and  half 
a  pound  of  dry  sifted  flour;  mix  them  all 
together  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Drop  them 
on  paper  about  the  size  of  a  crown-piece, 
and  thick  in  the  middle ;  sift  sugar  over, 
and  bake  them  in  a  brick  oven.  Take 
them  off  the  paper  while  hot. 

BISCUITS,  LIGHT.  Take  ten  eggs, 
put  the  yolks  of  five  in  a  pan  with  a  few 
crisped  orange- flowers,  the  peel  of  a  green 
lemon,  both  shred  fine,  and  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar;  beat  the  whole 
together  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  well 
mixed  with  the  eggs.  Beat  tl»e  ten  whites 
to  a  frotlt,  aod  add  to  the  sugar,  stir  in 
lightly,  and  by  degrees,  six  ounces  of  flour, 
put  them  into  buttered  moulds,  powdering 
them  with  fine  sugar,  and  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

BISCUITS,  MANQUES.  Put  into  an 
earthen  pan  half  a  pound  of  powder-sugar, 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  the  same  of  pounded 
almonds,  a  little  salt,  and  some  orange- 
flower  water,  six  yolks,  and  two  whole 
eggs  ;  beat  up  these  ingredients  well  ;  whip 
tlie  .six  whites,  and  mix  them  gradually 


BIS 


263 


BfS 


with  the  aboTC  preparation  ;  make  a  paper 
case,  butter  and  pour  in  it  your  biscuit 
paste  and  bake  it.  Meanwhile  cut  some 
almonds  into  either  dice  or  slips,  mix  them 
with  some  powder-sugar  and  white  of^egg; 
when  the  biscuit  maiiques  la  alx>ut  tliree 
parts  done,  dorez  and  cover  it  with  this 
latter  mixture ;  then  replace  it  in  the  oven 
and  tinir-li  lxikin<;.  As  soon  as  it  is  done, 
take  it  out  and  cut  it  into  whatever  forms 
your  fancy  may  dictate. 

BISCUITS,  MARRLED.  Make  twen- 
ty-tour eggs,  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  and 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  dried  and  sifted 
flour,  into  a  biscuit  paste,  as  directed  for 
Spoon  Bitcuits;  then  beat  four  ounces 
of  dis.-ol\cd  chocolate  in  an  earthen  pan, 
and  ad  I  to  it  a  third  of  the  paste;  when  it 
is  well  mixed,  divide  it  in  half,  and  to  one 
half  mix  a  quarter  of  the  biscuit-paste,  which 
will  tinge  (hat  portion  a  light  chocolate  col- 
or. After  this,  mix  togetl>er  some  vegeta- 
ble red  and  infusion  of  saffron  to  color  hull' 
tin-  remaining  p.iMr  orange;  then  divide 
that  again,  and  mix  the  la.-t  quarter  with 
half  the  orange-color,  thus  your  pa.-tc  will 
lx-  colored  with  two  shades  of  chocolate 
anil  two  of  oraiiye. 

Make  two  pa|«T  rases,  each  eight  incli- 
w  square  and  three  high,  pour  into  one  of 
these  a  large  spoonful  of  the  chocolate- 
pastc.  ami  when  it  has  spread  over  the  bot- 
tom of  the  case,  pour  in  one  of  the  orange- 
colored,  on  »hich  another  of  the  chocolate, 
'i,  alternately,  until  tin-  case  is  half 
full ;  then  sprinkle  it  with  Hour,  and  put  it 
into  a  slow  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  I'ut  the  remainder  of  your  bi.-ruit- 
poste  (both  colors)  into  a  pan  and  stir  them 
together  with  a  s|x>on  till  the  whole  is 
veined,  or  clouded  w  ith  tlie  two  colors  ;  pour 
it  into  the  other  case,  sprinkle  it  with  Hour 
and  bake  like  the  former;  when  quite  cold, 
cut  them  into  slices  about  two  incites  thick, 
half  of  which  should  Ix-  broken,  and  the  other 
half  cut  in  pieces  of  au  equal  size,  lay  them 
on  a  Uikii'Lj-plate,  and  dry  them  in  the  oven. 
These  are  generally  used  to  make  the  rocks 
in  ornamental  pastry,  and  may  l>e  colored 
with  tin;  usual  materials,  according  to  your 
fancy . 

BI8C1  ITS,  MARCHPANE.  Beat  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds  to  a  very  fine 

pa.-tr,  moisten  them  with  water,  then  put 
them  and  a  p»und  of  powder-sugar  into  a 
saucepan.  o\i-r  a  clear  but  riot  tierce  char- 
coal tire,  stirring  constantly,  till  the  paste 
it  ii  loyi-tlicr ;  put  it  on  a  Homed 
slab,  and  woik  it  well  with  \our  hands  for 
some  lime,  then  roll  small  piece*  of  it  alxuit 
tliree  incho  loir.'  and  half  the  thickness  of' 
your  little  tinker,  join  the  ends  of  each  and 


make  them  into  round  rings,  lay  tliem  on  a 
sieve  in  a  dry  warm  place  for  two  or  three 
days.  When  wanted,  mix  some  powder- 
sugar  with  the  whites  of  eight  eggs,  and 
U-at  them  with  a  wooden  spoon  in  each 
hand ;  add  a  cup  of  orange-flower  water. 
Put  your  rings  into  this  icing,  and  cover 
them  completely ;  lay  them  «n  a  sheet  of 
paper  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  the 
icing  sets  and  they  begin  to  change  color. 
Do  not  remove  them  from  the  paper  till  cold. 

BISCUITS,   MILLEFRUIT.       Take 

preserver]  orange  and  lemon-peel,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  each,  six  ounces  of  angel- 
ica, the  same  of  sweet,  and  one  ounce  of 
bilter  almonds;  cut  all  the  above  ingredients 
into  pieces  half  an  inch  long  and  a  quarter 
wide.  Make  an  icing  with  white  of  eggs, 
sugar  and  orange-flower  water  ;  put  the  al- 
monds, &c.  into  this,  and  having  paper  on 
your  baking-tin,  lay  the  cakes  on  it,  of 
whatever  size  you  please;  then  with  a  hair 
pencil  touch  them  here  and  tin-re  with  a 
little  cochineal.  Bake  them,  but  not  in  too 
hot  an  oven. 

BISCUITS,    MONKEY.      Take  the 

weight  of  six  esjifs  in  powder-sugar,  and 
mix  it  with  the  yolks  and  a  little  pounded 
cinnamon;  whisk"  the  whites  to  a  firm  froth, 
and  stir  them  lightly  into  the  yolks;  add 
four  whole  e<;gs,  and  their  weight  of  dry- 
sifted  Hour,  mix  them  well  together;  take 
this  mixture  in  a  spoon,  and  lav  it  in  about 
the  size  of  a  half-crown  piece  on  paper, 
join  two  together  with  the  spoon,  and  when 
your  paper  is  full,  sprinkle  powder-sugar 
o\er  anil  bake,  them;  a  lew  minutes  will  do 
them.  Remove  them  from  tlie  pa|x>r  while 
hot  and  put  tin,-  two  undersides  together. 

BISCUITS,  PRINCESS  AMELIA. 
Put  tlie  whites  of  twelve  eggs  into  an  earth- 
en pan,  whisk  them  to  a  thick  snow,  and 
add  to  them  eight  ounces  of  double  refined 
sugar,  pounded  and  sifted;  having  mixed 
them,  put  in  three  ounces  of  flour,  and  three 
of  powder-sugar  sifted,  tlie  grated  rind  of 
one  or  two  lemons  and  half  a  coffee  cup  of 
oiani;e-l|iiwer  water,  stir  them  well  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  but  take  care  not  to  spoil  the 
snow:  drop  them  on  paper  of  a  larger  size 
than  the  sweet  biscuits,  and  bake  them  to 
a  clear  brown  in  a  moderate  oven.  Take 
them  from  the  paper  while  hot. 

BISCUITS,  SAVOY.  Whip  twelve 
whites  of  eggs  to  a  snow;  beat  the  yolks 
w  ith  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  powder-sugar, 
mix  them  together,  with  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  Hour  and  the  grated  rind  of  a  lem- 
on, into  a  paste,  rub  your  mould  with  melted 
,  butter,  and  bake  it. 


BIS 


264 


BI9 


BISCUITS,  LARGE  SAVOY.     Take 

fifly-six  eggs,  four  pounds  of  sugar,  the  zes- 
tes of  four  oranges,  a  pound  and  three-quar- 
ters of  potatoe-flour  sifted ;  and  make  your 
biscuit  as  follows:  grate  the  zestes  of  the 
oranges  on  a  piece  of  sugar,  and  as  soon  as 
it  becomes  colored,  scrape  it  off,  and  grate 
again  until  all  the  zeste  is  done,  then  dry 
die  sugar  perfectly,  crush  and  sift  it. 

Break  your  eggs  one  by  one,  (takin'*  care 
that  all  are  perfectly  fresh ;)  put  the  yolks 
and  whites  into  separate  vessels;  mix  half 
your  sugar  with  the  former,  stirring  it  in 
with  a  spatula  until  perfectly  smooth,  then 
add  the  remainder,  and  work  it  well  for 
twenty  minutes.  Whip  the  whites  till  quite 
firm,  pulling  in  a  small  quantity  of  pounded 
alum;  when  sufficiently  whipped,  which 
may  be  known  by  little  points  rising  when 
the  whisk  is  taken  out;  mix  a  little  wilh 
the  yolks;  still,  however,  keeping  the  whites 
stirring;  then  pour  the  yolks  on  them  very 
gently  mixing  them  together  as  you  pour, 
with  the  whisk:  sift  over  the  whole  a  pound 
of  potatoe-flour,  stirring  the  mixture  all  the 
time;  when  ready  to  put  into  the  mould, 
your  paste  should  be  very  smooth,  and  some- 
what of  the  consistence  of  treacle.  Butter 
Ule  mould,  and  put  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
your  paste  at  first,  to  prevent  any  globules 
of  air  appearing  on  the  top  when  baked; 
pour  in  the  remainder  carefully.  Cover  a 
baking-plate  with  hot  ashes,  lay  the  mould 
in  the  midst  of  them,  and  place  it  in  a  mod- 
erate oven ;  keep  it  open  for  an  hour,  that 
the  biscuit  mav  be  watched,  and  if  it  takes 
color  too  quickly,  cover  it  with  paper.  In 
diree  hours  time  take  il  from  the  oven,  and 
if  it  be  of  a  good  color,  uml  linn,  turn  it  on 
a  baking-tin,  tie  round  it  a  band  of  double 
paper,  and  replace  it  in  the  oven  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  to  dry. 

IBID,  WITH  ALMONDS.  The  in- 
gredients for  this  biscuit  are  the  same  as 
above,  with  the  addition  of  four  eggs,  and 
half  a  pound  of  bitter  almonds:  blanch  the 
almonds,  then  wash,  drain,  and  dry  them  in 
a  napkin;  pound  them  with  whites  of  eggs 
in  the  usual  way,  to  a  fine  paste,  pass  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  then  mix  it  with  the 
additional  eggs;  add  this  to  die  sugar  and 
yolks,  and  proceed  as  above. 

BISCUITS,  SPICE.  Take  three 
pounds  of  flour,  three  pounds  of  almonds,  cut 
in  half,  three  ounces  of  cinnamon  anil  mace 
pounded,  and  one  pound  of  powder-sugar ; 
mix  them  all  together  on  your  slab;  lx>il 
three  pounds  of  Lislion  sugar  with  some  wa- 
ter; make  the  above  ingredients  into  a  paste 
with  this,  and  roll  it  to  the  size  of  a  large 
rolling-pin ;  lay  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  flat 
it  down  a  little  wilh  your  hand,  keeping  it 


higher  in  the  middle  than  at  the  ends;  put 
it  into  a  very  hot  oven  ;  when  done,  take  it 
out,  and  while  hot,  cut  it  across,  in  slices  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  dry  them. 

BISCUITS,  FINE  SPONGE.    Break 

twelve  eggs,  separate  the  yolks  and  whites; 
to  the  former  put  three  quarters  of  a  pound 
of  powder-sugar,  stir  them  well  u  itli  a  wood- 
en spoon,  till  it  rises  in  large  bladders; 
whisk  the  whites  to  a  very  firm  froth,  and 
then  mix  them  very  lightly  with  the  yolks 
and  sugar,  and  when  incorporated,  add  ten 
ounces  of  fine  dried  and  sifted  flour.  Stir 
them  all  together  well,  and  pour  the  mix- 
ture into  well-buttered  tin  moulds,  sift  sugar 
over,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Take  them  from  the  tins  while  hot. 

BISCUITS,  SPOON.  Break  four  eggs, 
put  the  yolks  and  whites  into  separate 
basins;  add  to  the  former  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  powder-sugar;  having  grated  on 
it  the  zeste  of  a  lemon,  mix  these  together 
well  with  a  spatula  for  ten  minutes;  then 
whip  the  whites  to  a  froth,  and  put  about 
half  of  them  to  the  yolks,  and  when  that  is 
well  mixed  in,  add  the  rest;  stir  it  very 
lightly,  and  lay  them  with  a  spoon  on  paper, 
make  them  about  three  inches  long,  and  the 
breadth  of  a  finger.  Glaze  them  with  pow- 
der-sugar, and  place  them  on  baking  tins, 
add,  as  the  sugar  dissolves,  and  they  .-hine, 
put  the  biscuits  into  a  moderate  oven,  which 
must  be  kept  open  for  seven  or  eight  minutes 
then  close  it  until  your  biscuits  are  of  a  pro- 
per color.  When  col),  detach  lliem  from 
the  paper  with  a  thin  knife-blade,  and  lay 
them  by,  in  couples,  the  glazed  sides  out- 
wards, till  wanted 

BISCUITS,  SWEET.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  fine  pounded  sn^ar,  and  sift  it 
through  a  tammy.  Put  the  whites  of  twelve 
eggs  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  the  yolks 
into  an  earthenware  tureen  ;  whip  the  whites 
In  a  snow,  and  then  carefully  pour  on  it  the 
yolks  and  sugar;  stir  them  gently;  place 
your  pan  over  a  chafing-dish;  continue 
whipping  the  whole  for  a  full  half  hour,  and 
then,  if  the  drop  which  falls  from  the  whisk 
lays  a  little  while  without  spreading,  take  it 
from  the  fire,  and  whisk  again  till  it  is  cold; 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  tine  sifted  flour,  stir 
it  in  gently  with  a  wooden  sp  ion.  Drop 
them  on  paper,  sift  sugar  OM-I-,  and  bake 
them  in  a  warm  oven  until  of  a  deep  yellow; 
take  them  from  the  papers  while  warm; 
bake  them  as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are 
dropt  on  paper. 

BISCUITS,     SWEETMEAT.       Cut 

softie  Naples    biscuits    into    pieces  about  an 
inch  thick,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  square, 


BLA 


265 


BOU 


and  just  crisp  them  in  tlte  oven.  Make  some 
icing  with  whites  of  egg*,  sugar,  and  orange- 
flower  water;  dip  one  side  of  the  biscuit 
into  it;  cut  some  preserved  lemon  and 
orange-|>eel  and  angelica  into  small  pieces; 
strew  tlicm  over  the  biscuits,  and  dry  the 
icing  in  the  mm. 

BISCUITS,    TOAD  -  IN  -  A  -  HOLE. 

•iiinil  of  sweet,  and  an  ounce  and  a 
half  ul' bitter  almonds  to  a  line  smooth  paste, 
iiioi-ti  .1  with  water,  and  mix  tin-  pa.-te, 
winch  .-h.niM  not  I"'  IIHI  tliin,  w  iili  a  pound 
and  a  ((nailer  of  while  .-UL'.N  .  l>ay  a  .-hn-t 
of  wi  iling-|w;>i.'i  cm  your  baking-plate,  and 

wafer-paper,  on  thai;  lay  the  bucuiu  about 

tin-  si/.e  ul"  a  hall-crow  n  piece;  put  a  dried 
cherry  in  the  middle  of  each;  silt  sugarover 
and  liake  (hem  in  a  moderatu.oveii.  When 
done,  cut  (lie  water-paper  round,  but  do  not 
lake  it  away. 

IU.ACKiir.ltKV  WINE.     Put  full  ripe 

bl.icklx-irir.-  inio  a  large  ve.-.-el  w  itli  a  cock 
in  it,  |«. in  nn  as  iin.i  h  liniiing  water  as 
will  cover  tiiern,  anil  as  so,,n  as  the  heat 
will  permit,  liim-e  llleiii  well  with  tin-  hand 
till  all  llit-  Ix-uii-aie  bicken;  cover  them, 
and  in  almnl  three  or  lour  dav  -,  w  liru  tin-  l,.-i  - 
in  llie  tup,  di  aw  i., l'  [he  clear  part 
nidi  another  Vi  --i-l:  add  tu  ru-i  v  trn  ijnai  Is 
of  the  liijimr  one  |KHIIII|  of  sugar,  stir  it  well 
in,  anil  lei  it  stand  a  wet-k  or  ten  days  to 
wuiK.  l)iaw  il  ollihniiigli  ajclly-bag.  Sleep 
four  oiiures  of  isinglass  ill  a  pint  of  sweet 
wine  !>>i  twelve  li..nrs,  then  Ixiil  it  .-l.iwK 
till  dissolved,  put  it  in  a  gallon  of  ihcUuck- 
Ixny  juice,  Imil  tliem  li-^i-ilier  and  (hen 
put  a"  •  ••gcdicr;  let  it  stand  a  few  dav>,  and 
bottle. 

I ;i.  \\r-M  \M:E,  DUTCH.     Put   a 

pint  of  cleared  calf's-loot  jelly  into  a  slew- 
pau ;  mix  vvilh  it  the  yolks  of  six  i-j 
it  over  a  file,  and  whisk  till  it  Ijegins  to 
bull;  (hen  set  tile  (Kill  in  cold  w  aid,  and  .-(il 
tlie  mixiiiie  till  nearly  cold,  to  prevent  it 
fiom  cumin-'.',  and  when  it  begins  to  thicken 
fill  (lie  mould-. 

r.I.AMVM  \N<;K,  rKF.NCH.  Blanch 
one  pound  1. 1  Mvi-et,  and  a  score  of  bitter 
almond-:  ihain  I|M-III  on  a  sieve,  and  aflei  - 
wards  dry  them,  \,\  nibbing  them  in  a  nap- 
kin: pound  tin-in  in  a  mortar,  continually 
moiMciiini;  them  w  ilh  half  a  tea-spoonful  of 
w.iti-r  al  a  time,  to  pi  event  their  oiling. 
When  they  are  |x.innied  a.-  Inn-  a-  |>o.-.-iUi-, 
take  tin  in  out  of  (he  moilat  .  and  put  them 
into  a  |Kin;  then  with  a  silver  S|XK>II,  beat 
tip  yiiir  .d:ir mi!-  graduallv,  willi  live  glasses 
of  tillered  wain:  after  lln>,  >picad  a  napkin 
over  an  oval  iii-li.  and  put  your  almonds 
ujx)ii  it;  then  gallier  up  the  coiners  of  your 
23 


napkin,  and  wring  it  very  tight,  to  press  out 
all  the  milk  from  the  almonds;  then  put 
into  this  milk,  twelve  ounces  of  crystallized 
sugar,  broken  into  small  pieces;  when  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  pass  the  whole  through  a 
napkin;  and  then  add  to  it  one  ounce  of 
clarified  isinglass*,  rather  warmer  than  luke- 
warm; and  when  the  whole  is  well  incorpo- 
rated together,  pour  il  into  your  mould. 
Vour  mould  .-honld  be  previously  put  into 
ten  |X)unds  of  pounded  ice ;  w  hen  your  blanc- 
mange is  ready  to  serve,  (which  will  be  in 
two  hours  after  it  has  been  put  into  the 
mould,)  you  must  take  it  out  of  the  mould 
according  to  the  rule  prescribed  in  Violet 
Jelly. 

BLANC-MAN(!E     WITH     FRUIT. 

Boil  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  isin^lar-s,  and 
when  (|iiite  dissolved,  strain  it.  Let  it  cool 
for  half  an  hour,  skim,  and  pour  it  lice  from 
sediment  into  another  pan  ;  then  whii-kvvith 
it  a  table-spoonful  of  cedr.it,  and  half  a 
imiind  of  currant  jelly,  straw Ixrty,  or  rasp- 
iienvjani;  and  when  it  begins  to  jelly,  fill 
(lie  moulds. 

I'-I.  \\r-M  VN(JE,    WITHOUT  EITHER 

ISINGLASS    OR    ICING.      Prepare    your 

almonds  in  the  same  manner  as  in  ihc  re- 
ceipt for  BlMO-tMflge  d  la  Francaise,  but 
only  using  hall  die  quantity  s;x'cilied  in  that 
receipt,  and  I  ike  wist:  leaving  out  (he  isinglan. 
Tin  n  i  nt  into  a  pan  the  whiles  of  four  eggs, 
,  and  whip  them  till  (hey  Lc^iu  to  whiten, 
then  add  your  Mane-mange,  and  place  your 
pan  over  hot  ashes,  and  continue  to  whip 
your  preparation  until  the  egg  is  thoroughly 
iiiiM-.l  with  the  almonds,  and  the  whole  be- 
gins to  nun  to  a  thick  cieam;  and  when  it 
is  of  a  pr, >(,<;  ci  ,-i-ieiiee,  pour  into  little 
cups,  and  serve  it  either  hot  or  cold. 

\\heu  yon  wi>h  to  serve  this  entremet 
in  little  cups,  and  of  any  flavor  you  pleaae, 
you  HUM  only  make  use  of  two-thirds  of  the 
(jiiaiiiity  of  almonds,  named  in  tin-  receipt 
for  Blanc-mange  French. 

BOUCHEES  DE  DAMES.  Mix  with 
six  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
three  ounces  of  potato-flour,  a  little  rah, 
and  a  pinch  of  dried  orange-flowers  :  heat 
them  together  well,  and  having  buttered  a 
tin,  lay  your  |  a.-ie  on  it,  and  Lake  it  in  a 
gentle  oven  tin  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  when 
done,  cut  it  in  pieces,  about  the  -i/e  of  a 
ciown  pn-ue.  and  glaze  ilieui,  mask  them 
i  ding  to  your  pleasure,  and  dry  them 
in  the  oven. 

BOUCHEES  PETITES,  GLACEE8. 
Roll  some  pnlf  paste  to  about  llie  eighth  of 
an  inch  in  lhickiie>s,  and  will)  a  plain  round 
|.-i.-ie-eiitiiT,  of  two  inches  diametei ,  cut  out 


BOU 


266 


BUT 


as  many  cakes  as  you  mny  retire ;  then 
with  a  smaller  cutter,  take  out  the  middle 
of  half  the  number,  so  as  to  make  rings  of 
them;  moisten  the  edges  of  tlie  former,  and 
lay  the  rings  on  them;  wet  them  also  as 
you  lay  them  down,  cpi  inkle  them  lightly 
with  po'.vdur  sugar,  ami  liuke  them  in  a 
liriik  <r.eii.  These  bouchees  require  great 
attention  in  baking,  as  the  sugar  is  apt  to 
dissolve  and  color  too  quickly  ;  when  done, 
they  should  be  of  a  reddish  tinge.  Fill 
them  with  swealmeats,  | -reserves,  or  whip- 
ped cream,  according  to  fancy. 

BOUCHEES  DE  MONSIEUR.  Pound 
a  stick  of  vanilla  with  two  ounces  of  pow- 
der-sugar, and  then  sifl  it;  mix  with  it 
seven  additional  ounces  of  dry  powder-su- 
gar, and  half  a  pound  of  sifted  (lour;  add  to 
this  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  whip|>ed  firm, 
and  work  them  together  till  the  paste  is 
very  smooth  and  soft.  Heat  two  copper- 
plates, rub  them  over  with  wax,  and  then 
wipe  them;  when  cold,  lay  the  pr.ste  with 
a  knife,  in  pieces  about  the  siz.e  of  a  fill>ert, 
shaded  tjuite  round,  leave  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  spare  between  each ;  \\  hen  the 
plates  are  full,  put  them  on  stool.--  in  an  oven, 
so  that  they  can  receive  no  heat  from  below, 
then  put  a  stove  with  hot  coals  on  the  top 
of  the  oven,  and  let  them  remain  in  this 
state  for  twenty-lour  hours;  then  put  them 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  into  a  mode- 
rate oven.  Take  them  from  the  plates 
whilst  hut,  and  as  soon  as  cold,  finish  them 
in  the  same  way  as  bouchees  de  dames; 
glaze  them  with  chocolate,  a  la  rose,  with 
pistachios,  orange,  cedrat,  he.  &o.  They 
may  also  be  masked  with  sugar,  pistachios, 
currants,  &c. 

BOUCHEES  PETITES,  MERIN- 
GUES AUX  PISTACHES.  Make  them 
the  same  as  above,  strew  sugar  over  with- 
out wetting  the  rings,  and  bake  them  to  a 
light  color  in  a  moderate  oven.  Then  mix 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pnwder-flBgJur  with 
three  whites  of  eggs,  well  whipped,  an, I 
mask  the  bouchees  lightly  with  it,  and 
glaze  them  with  sugar;  having  ready  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  pistachio-nuts  blanch- 
ed, and  each  cut  across  sloping;  place  these 
pieces  round  the  edge  of  the  bouchees  like 
a  crown;  and  each  piece  of  the  pistachios 
being  placed  on  ilia  cut  side,  they  stand  out 
from  the  edge  of  the  bouchee:  this  process 
being  finished,  put  them  in  tlie  oven  again  a 
few  minutes,  to  color  the  egg;  and  in  the 
meantime  stir  up  the  white  of  egg  which 
remains,  and  make  with  it  half  as  many 
meringuees  as  you  have  bouchf.es,  sprin- 
kle them  witlt  sugar,  and  r..lor  lx>:li  sides 
of  them  in  a  slow  oven ;  ami  when  the  frou- 
chees  are  ready  for  table,  fill  the-u  with 


whipped  cream,  with  pistachios,  and  cover 
each  with  half  a  meringue. 

BOUCHEES  PETITES,  PERLEES. 

Your  bouchees  being  made  and  baked  as 
above,  whip  the  whites  of  two  egu>  to  a 
firm  froth,  and  mix  theai  with  four  >pi>.m- 
fuls  of  sifted  sugar,  and  when  very  smooth, 
mask  your  bouchees  with  it:  then  take 
son'e  white  of  egg,  and  with  the  point  of  a 
knife,  drop  them  in  pearls  about  the  si/-  of 
a  grape-stone,  round  each  bouchee,  half  an 
inch  apart,  sprinkle  them  lightly  with  sugar, 
and  dry  tlie  egg  in  the  oven,  taking  cate 
they  do  not  lose  their  whiteness. 

When  cold,  place  between  each  pearl  a 
smViler  one  of  red-currant  jelly.  Fill  your 
bouchees  with  apricot  marmalade,  apple- 
jelly,  &c. ;  if,  however,  the  jelly,  or  what- 
ever else  yon  may  use,  lie  of  a  red  color, 
your  intermediate  pearls  should  I*  composed 
of  light-colored  preserve,  such  us  apricot 
marmalade,  &c.  The.*e  sliMild  be  pcailed 
a  few  at  a  time  only. 

BOUCHEES  PETITES,  PI1AU- 
NEES.  Having  prepared  the  bouchefsas 
usual,  dorez  and  bake  them  in  a  mo;Vra»e 
oven ;  when  they  are  of  the  proper  color, 
ma.-k  them  with  whites  of  eggs  mixed  wi;j 
sugar,  and  almonds  minced  very  small;  re- 
pl;:ee  them  in  the  oven  a  minute  or  two, 
and  then  strew  red,  or  any  other  colored 
sugar  on  them,  but  not  #o  thick  as  to  cover 
the  a!:i::;n ,'s  entirely.  Fill  the  bouchees 
as  usual. 

BOUCHEES      PETITES,       A     LA 

RHINF..  The  same  as  a''ove,  only  the 
paste  must  U>  cat  thicker,  and  Ittfore  you 

:  dorez,  I-U  them  stand  a  few  minutes.    Bake 

I  in  a  brisk  oven. 

BUCKTHORN, SIRUP  OF.  (1)  Gath- 
er the  berries  in  tlie  heat  of  the  day,  and  set 
in  an  earthen  vessel  in  the  oven ;  squeeze  out 
the  juice,  and  for  each  peek  of  Ivrries  put 
two  pounds  of  white  sugar,  and  lx>il  them 
together  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  let  it  cool, 
and  then  bottle  it. 

BUCKTHORN,  SIRUP  OF.  (2)  Take 

three  quarts  of  the  juice  of  clarified  buck- 
thorn berries,  and  four  pounds  of  brown 
sugar;  make  them  into  a  sirup  over 
fire,  and  while  warm,  mix  with  it  a  diachm 
of  tlie  distilled  oil  of  cloves,  dissolved  on  a 
lump  of  sugar.  The  trite  buckthorn  may  be 
known  by  the  number  of  its  s»cds,  having 
f.iur,  the  "alder  buckthorn  lias  only  two,  and 
list;  cherry  hirklhorn  one  seed.  The  for- 
mer is  to  bu  used. 

BUTTER,  BLACK.     Three  pounds  of 


CAN 


267 


CAP 


fruit,  currant?,  gooseberries,  raspberries, 
and  cherries,  to  a  pound  of  coarse  sugar, 
txii!»d  till  quite  thick.  It  must  waste  to 
half  die  quantity. 


c. 


CAKES  MADE  OF  FLOWERS.  R-il 
double  refined  sugar  to  a  candy  height,  anrt 
strew  in  your  flower.-  and  let  ll-eiii  1..  il 
•  :  th"-i.  wi'h  your  hand,  lightly 
strrxv  in  a  little  double  refi  r-d  sirj.ir  pifted, 
and  |«it  it  directly  into  little  pans 
rani,  and  pricked  full  of  holes  at  the  hot- 
torn;  \oo  iiiu*t  set  the  pans  on  a  cushion, 
and  \\hen  they  are  cold,  take,  them  out. 

VCOMR.      V.,n\    yonr 
.1   ran  Iv  height;   tlirn  put    in  your 
•••.  liii-h  iiiu.-t  lie  rut;    haxe  little  pa- 
h  four  corners  ready;  d:<" 
(y  on    l!:e  |>apers,  take   them   off 
id  if  they   ar>>   rightly   done, 
they  XV  ill  loi.k  lull  of"!. 


CAKES,  I  I'-muiCE.  T;,k-  hy----o,, 
and  red  ro-e  u:it.-r,  of  each  half  a  pi-it,  half 
a  pound  •  oi't-i.ii- 

>v«th    a    |<c--r!e; 
put  to  il  half  a  pound  i.f  an 
it   all   night   in   the   water;  Ixiil   it  with  a 
penile  I'm-    till    ill.-    t.i.-te  is    well    out   of  the 

MI  it,  |)iit    to   if    (h. 

nf  liquorice  pov  it   on   a  tieu'le 

tire  till  it  i-  rom«-  to  the  thi-  ' 
take  it  oft',  and    put  to   it    Irilf  a   pound   of 
whit--    sti-ru-   randy    >c«-ied    very     fi-ie  ;    U-:it 
this  well    together  for  at    lea-t    lhre<-    II-MI;---. 
and    'lever   yiif>i  r    it   to  stand   s|i!> 
Ix-at    il,   you    inii-t   strew    in   double-refined 

•  re  I,  at  lea-t  three  pounds  ; 
halt  an  hour  Ik-fore  it  is  finished,  put  in  half 
a  tponnfid  of  gum  di  •  1  in  or- 

i'er:  when  it  is  verv  white 
then  i'  i  j  r  !l  it  tip  with  while 

sujir;   and  if  you  want  it   perfumed,  put  in 
a  past  i  i  or  l\vo. 

r\\!»\  \\<,.      I'rnit  intended  for  can- 

dying iuii>(  Ix;  fii.-t  preM-xi-d,  and   dii<rd    in 

'lie  tire,  that  none  of  the  sii- 

up  in.iy   temain  in  it.      Sn^ar    intended    for 

'I  '  iMindy  in'4  uiih-t   Ix-  thus  prep-ire>l  : 

put    into    a    togsing-pan  a  pound  of  sugar, 

with  half  .  i  pint  of  wali-r,  and   -i-t   it  oxer  a 

verv   rlear  tire.     Take  oM    the  scum  aa    it 

rises;  *Miil  it  (ill  it  look-  rl.-ar  and  line,  and 

take  out  a   little  in  a  silxer  Hpoon.      \\  hen 

it    is  «-o|,|,    if    it   xxill    iltaxv   a    threail   from 

xour  s|H»..n.  it  i-  '^..ili-.l  tMioii-.-li  for  any  Km.  I 

i    iH.il    \.-.r  .-iiuii,  and 

wlli-n  il    Ix-^in-    to  ranilx   r  ......  i  tr 


your  pan,  it  is  candy  height.  It  is  a  great 
mistake  to  put  any  kind  of  sweetmeat  into 
too  thirk  a  simp,  especially  at  the  first,  a* 
it  wi'hers  the  fruit,  and  both  the  beauty  and 
flavor  are  thereby  destroyed. 

CANDY  FLOWERS.  Take  the 
best  treble-refined  sugar,  break  it  into 
lunijic,  and  dip  it  piece  by  piece  into  water  ; 
put  them  into  a  vessel  if  silxer,  and  melt 
them  oxer  the  fire;  when  it  just  boilf, 
strain  k,  and  s-'t  it  on  the  fire  again,  and 
I«H  it  lr>il  till  il  draws  in  hairs,  which  you 
may  perceive  bv  holding  up  your  spoon; 
then  put  in  the  I'.oxvers,  and  set  them  in  cups 
\Vk-n  it  is  of  a  hard  candy, 
break  it  in  lumps,  and  lay  it  as  high  as  you 
Dry  it  in  a  stove,  or  in  the  sun, 
and  it  will  look  like  sugar-candy. 

CAMlY,  ALL  SORTS  OF  I 
When  !'.ni.-hed  in  the  sirup,  put  a  layer  into 

"re,  aad  dip  it  suddenly  into  hot 
x\at«-i,  'o  take  oflf  the  sirup  that  ha  'igs  about 
it  ;  pin  it  on  a  napkin  l«forc  live  fire  to 
drain,  and  then  do  some  more  on  the  sieve. 
••  'n!v-!-ifted  donble-n-fni'  d  »ugn«-, 
xxhirh  silt  oxer  the  fruit  on  al!  sides,  till 
<|iiite  while.  Set  it  on  the  shallow  end  of 

-  in  a  lightly-wano  oven,  and  turn 
ii  txvo  or  tlm-o  times.  It  must  not  be  cold 
till  dry.  Watch  it  carefully,  and  it  xvill  be 
beautiful. 

CANF.LI.O.NS.       Make   a  FtifT  paste, 
with  a   little  melted  Ixilter,  a  spoonful  or 

txvo  ,i  f  xxat.-,  some  rasped  lemon-peel,  an 
eg£,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  <-f  flmir,  and  half 
that  quantity  of  siiyir  ;  roil  it  very  thin; 
make  a  little  cane  of  raid-paper,  butter  it 
well  on  the  outside,  and  wrap  it  in  some  of 
the  paste;  bake  it  a  few  minutes;  take  ont 
t  lie  ran!,  and  fill  the  paste  xvith  currant  jel- 
ly, or  any  '.-'her  jelly  or  sweetmeat  you 


<\\M.  I.  I.ONS  MERINGUES.  Whip 
the  whites  of  two  ei{';<,  and  haxing  mixed 
diem  xvith  txvo  s|>ooi!fiils  of  powrier-eugar, 
then  mask  tlie  cannellons;  when  baked, 
cni-h  a  quarter  of  a  jxtund  of  fine  sugar, 
and  roll  the  canm-llons  in  it;  repl.i- 
a  lexv  mini'tr"  in  the  oven,  and  then  finish. 
The  masking  of  the.-*:  rannelloiis  may  be 

rwied  according  to  t  is'e,  xxith   pistariiion, 

drie<l  currants,  &e.  tlie  fonner  cut  in  pieces, 

i  the    taller    xxc  II    xxaslied,  dried    and  mixed 

xs  ith  an  ("jii.il  (j  laiihtx  of  sugar. 

CM'II.LAII.-F..     SIRUP     OF.      The 

;  ra|  ill  in  >•  <>l  <  a'laila,  altlio'igh  ih.il  of  .Moiit- 

i  peiirr   is  e<|i  ally    sfix«l,    is   a   verx    oilorifij- 

vgptalile,  ligl't  and  agreeable,   but  co 

I  exireiueix  volaiile,  that  the  gveairst  part  of 


CAR 


268 


CAR 


it  is  dissipated  during  the  preparation  of 
the  sirup.  To  preserve  then  the  odour  of 
the  capillaire,  when  your  sirup  is  sufficient- 
ly done,  pour  it,  whilst  boiling,  upon  some 
fresh  capillaire  coarsely  chopped  up;  then 
cover  your  vessel,  and  let  it  stand  until  it 
is  quite  cold,  then  pass  it  through  a  bolting- 
cloth  to  separate  it  from  the  leaves  of  tlie 
capillaire. 

Take  one  ounce  of  the  capillaire  from 
Canada;  put  it  into  a  glazed  pan,  pour  upon 
it  four  pints  of  boiling  water,  leave  it  to  in- 
fuse for  twelve  hours  over  some  warm  ashes  ; 
strain  it  and  let  it  run  into  a  vessel,  it  will 
give  you  a  strong  tincture  of  cupillaire; 
melt  in  this  tincture  four  pounds  of  sugar, 
put  the  whole  into  a  preserving-pan,  and 
put  it  on  the  fire,  and  clarify  it  with  the 
white  of  an  egg,  continue  the  cooking ;  when 
your  sirup  is  perle,  put  some  fresh  capil- 
laire, chopped,  into  a  pan,  and  pour  your 
sirup,  whilst  boiling,  upon  it;  cover  your 
pan  carefully,  and  let  it  cool;  when  your 
sirup  is  cold,  you  may  flavor  it  if  you  please. 
Put  it  into  bottles,  and  cork  them  hermeti- 
cally. 

CAPILLAIRE,  SIRUP  OF.  (2)  Take 
some  good  capillaire,  chop  it  up,  not  very 
small,  put  it  upon  a  sieve;  pour  upon  it 
some  boiling  water,  and  then  let  it  infuse 
for  ten  hours  in  a  vessel  well  covered  ;  strain 
this  infusion,  and  put  into  it  some  sugar 
boiled  «tt  casse;  clarify  this  sirup  with  the 
whites  of  eggs  whipped;  skim  it  till  it  is 
very  clear ;  when  it  rises,  take  it  off  the 
fire,  and  leave  it  to  cool,  then  put  it  into 
bottles. 

Viard  and  Beauvilliers,  whose  receipts 
are  nearly  the  same,  boil  their  capillaire  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  river- water;  after 
having  passed  this  boiling  through  a  sieve, 
they  put  int6  it  some  powder-sugar,  and 
clarify  their  sirup  with  water,  or  a  whole 
egg  beaten  up;  then  skim  it,  and  when  it  is 
very  clear  and  has  boiled  an  lisse,  they 
take  it  off  the  fire,  and  put  into  it  some 
orange-flower  water,  and  strain  it  through 
a  napkin  or  straining-bag,  leaving  it  to 
cool  before  putting  it  into  bottles. 

For  three  pints  and  a  half  of  sirup,  you 
must  use  two  good  ounces  of  capillaire,  four 
pints  of  water,  and  four  pounds  of  sugar, 
powder-sugar  is  the  best,  as  it  prevents  sir- 
ups from  candying. 

CARAMEL.  Break  into  a  small  copper 
or  brass  pan  one  pound  of  refined  sugar ; 
put  in  a  gill  of  spring-water ;  set  it  on  a 
fire;  when  it  boils  skim  it  quite  clean,  and 
let  it  boil  quick,  till  it  comes  to  the  degree 
called  crack;  which  may  be  known  by  dip- 
ping a  tea-spoon  or  skewer  into  the  sugar, 
and  letting  it  drop  to  the  bottom  of  a  pan 


of  cold  water;  and  if  it  remains  hard,  it  has 
attained  that  degree  :  squeeze  in  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  and  let  it  remain  one  min- 
ute longer  on  the  fire;  then  set  the  pan  into 
another  of  cold  water :  have  ready  moulds 
of  any  shape;  rub  them  over  with  sweet 
oil ;  dip  a  spoon  or  fork  into  the  sugar,  and 
throw  it  over  the  mould  in  fine  threads,  till 
it  is  quite  covered:  make  a  small  handle  of 
caramel,  or  stick  on  two  or  three  small  gum 
paste  rings,  by  way  of  ornament,  and  place 
it  over  small  pastry  of  any  description. 

CARAMEL  CONSERVE.  Clarify  the 
quantity  of  sugar  you  may  require,  and  boil 
f.  to  caramel;  have  ready  some  cases  of 
double  paper;  pour  in  your  sugar  to  the 
thickness  of  half  an  inch,  and  trace  on  its 
surface  the  forms  you  wish  it  to  have  ;  when 
cold,  break  it  according  to  those  marks. 
This  conserve  may  be  colored  and  flavored 
according  to  the  fancy. 

CARAMEL  COVER  FOR  SWEET- 
MEATS. DissoUe  eight  ounces  of  double- 
refined  sugar  in  three  or  four  spoonfuls  of 
water,  and  three  or  four  drops  of  lemon- 
juice;  then  put  it  into  a  copper  untinned 
skillet;  when  it  boils  to  be  thick,  dip  the 
handle  of  a  spoon  in  it,  and  put  that  into  a 
pint  basin  of  water,  squeeze  the  sugar  from 
the  spoon  into  it,  and  so  on  till  you  have  all 
the  sugar.  Take  a  bit  out  of  the  water, 
and  if  it  snaps  and  is  brittle  when  cold,  it  is 
done  enough ;  but  only  let  it  be  three  parts 
cold,  then  pour  the  water  from  the  sugar, 
and  having  a  copper  mould  oiled  well,  run 
the  sugar  on  it,  in  the  manner  of  a  maze, 
and  when  cold  you  may  put  it  on  the  dish  it 
is  to  cover  ;  but  if,  on  trial,  the  sugar  is  not 
brittle,  pour  off  the  water,  and  return  it  in- 
to the  skillet,  and  boil  it  again.  It  should 
look  thick  like  treacle,  but  of  a  bright  light 
gold  color.  It  makes  a  most  elegant  cover. 

CARDAMUM  COMFITS.  Procure 
your  cardamums  at  the  chemists,  and  they 
will  be  in  a  shell;  put  them  into  the  oven  to 
dry  the  skins,  and  they  will  break;  pick  all 
the  seeds  from  them,  put  the  seeds  into  a 
large'  comfit-pan,  and  have  a  fire  under  the 
same  as  for  others;  mix  your  gum,  starch, 
and  sirup,  and  finish  them  the  same  as  cara- 
way comfits. 

CARAWAY  CAKE.  Dry  a  quarter 
of  a  peck  of  fine  flour  in  an  oven;  rub  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter  in  it,  till  it 
is  crumbled  so  small  that  none  of  it  is  to  be 
seen ;  then  take  six  spoonfuls  of  rose  water, 
half  a  pint  of  canary,  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
and  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  new  ale  yeast, 
an  I  hi'  whites  of  two,  and  yolks  of  four 
eggs;  mix  all  these  well  together,  let  it  lie 


CAS 


269 


CHA 


before  the  firp,  and  when  vmi  make  it  up 
jHit  in  a  pound  ami  a  half  of  Naples  hisruits, 
and  three-quarters  of  a  pnuiui  of  rani  way - 
comfit.-.  Hake  it. 

CARAWAY  COMFITS.  Take  some 
fine  caraway  w«-ds,  sift  all  the  dust  frnm 
thf.'in,  and  have  a  large  copper  picseruu:;- 
|uu.  .dionf  two  feet  wide,  and  with  two 
luri'ilcs  a 'id  two  pieces  c.l  iron  made  as  a 
ring  on  cadi  side;  llien  you  must  have  a 

{Millev  fixed  lo  ill-  beam,  and  a  cord  with  a 
U'<,k  to  e.e  h  end,  so  as  to  !i\  it  :ii  i-arli 
side  of  the  pan  to  let  it  slinij;  then  have 
some  line  .-tairh  as  white  as  \oii  can  i;ii. 
and  jii.-t  soften  it,  l>"il  some  MI  up  a  (frailer 
of  an  h.iur,  and  mix  i;  will  ill'-  March; 
t.ike  some  gum  arable,  put  it  into  some 
wal'-r,  then  put  that  into  another  |  an,  and 
make  ii  jn-l  \\.i.m;  have  an  iron-jxit  with 
charcoal  (ire  under  the  large  pan,  Imt  not 
too  hot,  only  jn-t  to  keep  the  pan  warm  ; 
have  a  large  till)  to  put  your  pot  of  lire  at 
bottNDi  and  your  lai»e  pan  nin.-t  lie  on  the 
top;  put  the  rariwav  seeds  into  your  pan  ; 
add  a  lart;e  ladleful  of  jjuin  arable,  nil)  them 
will)  your  hands  until  you  lind  they  are  all 
dry,  then  put  a  ladlcful  of  starch  ami  .-imp. 
Mild  do  the  .-ame  ovei  your  |MII  of  lire,  until 
yon  find  they  are  all  diy;  put  lh<-  uniii  onlv 
three  or  four  limes  to  them  at  first,  ilien  the 
March  and  sugar,  lull  lx.il  your  sirup  more 
its  \oii  tin  I  they  come  to  coal  with  it,  and 
not  so  much  starch  ;  u  hen  you  hav  dried 
them  .-e\en  nr  i-iyhl  times,  put  ihem  into 
your  sieve;  (int  them  into  the  slo\e,  do 
them  the  next  day ,  and  M>,  successively,  for 
six  or  seven  days. 

CARANN  \Y  DK\«:KKS.  Takenny 
quantity  ol c  ,ia\\.i\  see  I-  \mi  think  pioper, 
put  them  into  a  preset  \  in^-p.m,  and  when 
(mite  w. u  111,  put  iii  clarified  sugar,  a  little 
at  a  time,  sin  11114  it  occasionally,  nil  of  the 
M/e  you  wish;  then  piocivd  as  diierted  for 
Almond  Dragee*. 

CASSI  \  CAMMED.  Pound  a  little 
imi.-k  and  ami*  i  :;i  i.-  with  an  iuuc.li  of  the 
powder  of  .  I--M  a.-  uill  lie  on  two  ghil- 
Mg*.  11  n  in1,'  jKiini-le  i  them  well  togpfher, 
take  a  (jii.u  lei  .,f  a  |H  und  of  fine  suy.ir,  ami 
as  inn.  h  \\ali-r  as  \\ill  uet  it,  und  Uiil  it  lo 
a  candy  Iwiylit,  then  put  in  your  powder 
and  mix  \\cll  t<  Aether.  Butter  gome  pew- 
ter saucer",  and  when  it  is  cold  turn  it  out. 

CASSIA  RATAFIA  OF.  Take  a 
pound  of  cassia,  half  a  pound  uf  bitter 
rheiiics.  a  ((iiarter  of  u  pound  of  caaaia 
Icau.-,  and  half  a  drachm  of  cinnamon; 
l>riii.-i-  tin  two  flint,  cut  up  tile  leaves,  and 
pound  the  cinnamon,  infuse  these  ingredi- 
tnta  in  lime  '(iiaits  cf  brandy  fur  iliree 
23* 


weeks.  Dissolve  two  pounds  of  sugar  in  a 
quart  of  water,  and  mix  with  the  liqueur, 
and  let  it  stand  some  time  longer,  then 
strain  and  bottle  it.  Cork  it  up  close. 

CEDRATS,    BLANCMANGE     OF. 

(irate  the  rind  of  a  eel  nit  upon  some  sugar 
in  the  u.-ual  way,  until  six  ounces  of  sugar 
have  been  used ;  blanch  and  pound  a  pound 
of  sweet  almonds,  moistening  them  with 
water;  when  (x-rf'-ctly  smooth,  dilute  them 
with  five  Classes,  of  water  put  in  by  degrees; 
then  pour  them  in  a  napkin,  and  j-qncc/.ing 
it,  express  the  milk  of  almonds  from  them; 
divide  this  into  two  equal  |«irls,  with  one 
of  which  mix  the  six  ounces  of  sugar  with 
the  eedrat,  and  with  the  other  portion,  mix 
the  same  quantity  of  plain  sugar;  as  soon 
as  Ixith  are  dissolved,  strain  I  hem,  and  put 
in  each  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass:  your 
mould  being  place, I  in  ice,  pour  into  it  the 
white  blancmange  to  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  depth;  as  corn  as  that  is  set,  pour 
in  an  equal  quantity  of  the  other,  which 
ought  to  be  of  a  clear  yellow  ;  when  thai 
also  is  set,  pour  in  some  white,  and  so  on 
alternately,  till  the  mould  is  full.  Turnout 
the  blancmange  ae  directed  in  Blancmange 
French. 

CEDRAT,  CONSERVE   OF.     Grate 

the  rind  of  a  eedrat  all  round,  until  the  juice 
is  ready  to  oo/e  out;  this  must  l>e  done  by 
inlying  it  against  a  huge  piece  of  sugar, 
(alxHit  a  |xumd;)  remove  the  suifare  of 
this  sugar,  to  which  the  grated  rind  auheres, 
with  a  knife,  an. I  sqiu  e/.e  to  it  half  (lie  juice 
of  the  cedr.it.  l)i.-.-.,l\e  tin-  remainder  of 
the  sugar  to  the  degree  grande  plume, 
then  take  it  from  the  (lie.  and  when  it  has 
stood  a  little  while,  put  in  your  cedial,  stir- 
ring it  with  a  spoon,  until  a  sort  of  ice 
forms  on  the  lop;  you  may  (hen  pour  your 
i  •II-IIM-  into  moulds.  Be  careful  not  to 
put  it  in  too  hot. 

CEDRAT  ZESTES,  JELLY  OF. 
Take  iluee-quarters  of  a  pound  of  lump  su- 
gar, grate  on  it  the  zettt*  of  two  cedrats, 
anil,  as  the  sugar  becomes  colored,  scrape 
it  off  with  a  knife,  and  gi  ale  again,  and  so 
on  until  all  the  zesle  is  gone;  dissolve  the 
.-craped  sugar  in  two  glasses  of  water,  and, 
with  the  juice  of  four  lemons,  pass  it  through 
a  jelly  bag.  Clarify  the  remainder  of  the 
sugar,  and  then  put  a  fourth  of  it  into  a 
small  preserving  pan;  boil  it  lo  caramel 
height,  to  color  the  jelly;  mix  this,  the 
fruit,  the  sirup,  and  an  ounce  of  isinglass 
together,  and  finish  in  the  usual  way. 


CHANTILLY   BASKET.    Dip 

i  aiafi.i  cake*  into  clarified  sugar  boiled  to 

I  caramel  height;  place  ihein  round  the  in- 


CHE 


270 


CHE 


side  of  a  dish ;  then  cut  more  ratafia  cakes 
into  squares,  dip  them  also  into  sugar,  and 
pile  them  corner-ways  on  the  row,  and  so 
on  for  two  or  three  stories  high.  Line  the 
inside  with  wafer-paper,  and  fill  it  with 
sponge  biscuit,  sweetmeats,  blan  lied  al- 
monds, or  some  made  cream;  put  trifle 
over  that,  and  garnish  the  fn>th  witli  rose- 
leaves,  colored  comfits,  or  caramel  sugar 
thrown  lightly  over  the  top. 

CHERRIES  IN  BRANDY.  Choose 
the  finest  and  ripest  cherries,  leave  on  half 
the  stalks,  and  put  them  into  very  cold  wa- 
ter. In  about  lull'  a:i  hour  take  them  out. 
and  drain  them  on  a  sieve;  weigh  them, 
and  to  every  pound  of  fruit,  allow  :t  qiianer 
of  a  pound  of  sugar;  wh-'ii  yo<:  have  clarified 
and  liuile.:!  it  to  grand  pi-.r'c,  pat  in  the 
fruit,  boil  them  i:p  two  01  three  tiaies,  siir- 
ring  them  genllv  wiih  a  >ki'n:;iei  ;  then  take 
them  from  the  fire  caieMlv,  and  put  thft 
cherries,  into  billies  or  glass  jars;  when 
filled,  a  Id  to  each  twelve  cl  ->ves  and  half  an 
ounce  of  cinnamon  tied  in  a  linen  bag.  I'm 
to  the  sugar,  when  nearly  col  I,  brandy  (in 
the  proportion  of  a  pint  anil  a  half  to  a 
pound  of  fruit);  mix  them  together  well, 
and  pour  them  on  the  cherries.  In  two 
months  time  taste  them,  an  I  if  siitli.-iently 
fiavore  I,  take  out  the  doves  and  cinnamon. 
Cover  the  jars  or  bottled  close. 

CHERRIES,  TO  CANDY.  The  fruit 
must  be  gathered  litfore  it  is  ripe;  prick 
and  stone  them;  boil  clarified  sugar,  and 
pour  it  over  them. 

CHERRY  ICE.  Take  the  stones  and 
stall. s  from  two  pounds  of  ripe  cherries, 
Lrui.-e,  and  s:'(  them  on  the  fire  with  a  litlle 
wat  •:  ,  and  half  a  pound  of  sugar.  When 
they  have  boiler),  pass  tlicm  through  a  hair 
sieve  into  an  earthen  pan.  Pound  a  handful 
of  the  kernels,  put  them  in  a  basin  with  the 
juice  '•(  uvo  lemons.  Add  to  the  cherries  a 
pound  of  sugar  au  petit  lisse,  aad  strain  on 
them  the  lemon-juice  and  kernels;  mix  the 
whole  together,  and  put  it  in  a  saboiiere, 
with  pounded  ice.  Work  the  cherries  up 
with  it  well,  until  it  has  set,  then  place  it  in 


CHERRY  ICE  CREAM.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  preserved  cherries,  pound  them, 
stones  and  all;  put  them  into  a  basin,  with 
one  gill  of  sirup,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a 
pint  of  cream,  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and 
freeze  it  according  to  custom. 

CHERRY  MARMALADE.  Choose 
the  ri|iest,  largest,  best  red  colored  cherries, 
you  can  meet  with,  and  take  of  them  double 
the  weight  of  the  sugar  you  intend  to  use ; 


stone  and  tail ;  and  then  put  them  on  a 
gentle  fire,  and  keep  stirring  them  till  re- 
duced to  half.  Clarify  and  lx.il  your  sugar 
to  petit  canst,  then  add  the  fruit  to  it,  and 
stir 'it  until  you  casi  see  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  ;  the  marmalade  is  then  sufficiently  done, 
an  I  may  be  put  into  pots. 

CHERRY  MARCHPANE.  Take  three 
pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  two  and  a  h'alf 
of  sugar,  and  a  pound  of  cherries ;  pound 
the  almonds  to  a  paste,  and  mix  it  with  the 
sugar,  boiled  to  petit  boule;  then  hating 
stoned,  well  bruised,  and  squeezed  out  tlie 
juice  of  the  cherries,  add  it  to  the  rest,  stir 
it  well,  place  it  on  hot  ashes,  stirring  con- 
stantly until  the  paste  is  properly  done; 
then  finish  it  in  the  usual  way,  (See 
MARCHPANK.)  StiawU-rries,  raspber- 
ries, currants,  or  any  other  fruit  may  be 
useJ  in  the  same  way. 

CHERRY  RATAFIA.  Crush  ten 
pounds  of  cherries,  and  put  them  into  ajar 
with  a  quart  of  brandy  ;  cover  the  jar  close, 
and  infuse  the  cherries  for  five  or  six  days; 
at  the  end  of  that  time  put  the  fruit  into  a 
cloth,  and  press  the  juice  out  through.  Boil 
five  pounds  office  currants,  with  three  pounds 
of  sugar,  and  press  out  the  juice  as  you  did 
that  of  the  cherries;  mix  the  two  juices, 
measure  them,  an  1  Tir  every  pint  allow  a 
pint  ofbrandy.  Add  a  (mini  1  of  the  kernels 
of  the  cherry-stones,  half  a  pound  of  corian- 
der, a  litlle  mace,  some  cloxes  and  cinna- 
iiinn,  all  well  pounded,  put  them  into  a  jar, 
and  pour  the  liquor  over  tliem ;  cover  it 
close  and  let  it  infuse  for  six  weeks,  after 
which,  pass  the  whole  through  a  jelly-bag, 
and  bottle  it ;  cork  it  carefully. 

CHERRIES,  SIRUP  OF.  The  l>est 
cherries  f<»r  this  purpose  are  the  black  sour 
ones;  take  out  the  stones  and  express  the 
juice  into  an  earthen  pan,  where  it  must 
stand  in  a  cool  place  for  twenty-four  hours 
to  clear:  at  the  end  of  that  time  pour  the 
juice  gently  into  a  pan,  and  add  to  it,  for 
each  pound  of  juice,  two  pounds  of  crushed 
sugar,  ami  two  drachms  of  cinnamon,  pre- 
viously infused  in  a  glass  of  water,  wrap  the 
cinnamon  in  a  piece  of  linen,  and  put  it  with 
the  water  into  your  pan;  boil  all  together 
for  half  an  hour,  skimming  it  carefully. 
When  sufficiently  done  take  out  the  cinna- 
mon; strain  the  sirup  till  quite  clear,  and 
when  cold  bottle  it. 

CHESTNUTS  IN  CARAMEL.      (1) 

Roast  chestnuts  us  for  the  table;  take  off 
the  skins  ;  dip  each  in  the  whiles  of  eggs 
beaten,  and  then  roll  them  in  pMWfer-eu^arj 
lay  them  separately  on  paper  to  dry,  in  a 
moderate  oven ;  they  may  be  cut  into  dif- 


CHE 


271 


CHO 


ferent  forms  if  you  think  proper,  and  glazed  |  boiled  a  little  while,  strain  it,  put  it  into 
cither  white  or  brow  n.  a  dish,  or  glass  fur  table,  and  let  it  cool. 


Clir.sTMTS  IN  CAR  \MF.L.      (2) 

Cut  some-  o-ler  rods  or  reeds  into  pieces 
about  two  or  three  inches  long,  and  on  the 
point  of  e.icli  put  a  rousted  and  skinned 
I'he-tnnt.  Take  a  piece  of  » cry  fre.-h  but- 
UT,  (nlxiut  the  si/.e  of  a  nut),  and  nib  it 
with  the  palm  of  the  hand,  on  an  iion  plate 
or  marble  slab,  taking  fare  to  rub  ciery 
part  well.  Then  haxiny  ln.iled  some  clari- 
;  to  caramel  height;  take  a  piece 
4>f  the  o.-ior,  with  a  chestnut  0:1  the  end.  in 
each  hand,  an  1  dip  them  in  the  sugar,  txx  isl- 

rouud    lepeatedly,  that   the  sn,'ar 

may  adliere  equally  about  the  cher-lmil   (ill 

it  ln-ij:n>  to  iMiil,  then  lay  them  on  the  but- 

lb,  an  I  dip   in   two  more,  procee:!- 

ixe;  w hen  all  are  done  and  rold, 
take  oat  the  osier  twigs,  and  wrap  each 
flu -mm  in  paper,  with  a  d.-xiiv  if  xon 
tilink  proper.  These  diesluut>  make  a  de- 
licious sweetmeat,  hut  they  sh-.ul  J  be  eaten 
die  day  <m  which  they  are  made. 

cnr.-TMT  COMl'OTE.  (1)  Take 
llic  <i'i:  -r  .-kin  fioin  alxmt  a  hundred 
.  and  then  put  them  into  a  sance- 
pan  xx  illi  xvalcr,  a  Inn  m  cut  in  pi 
liirce  ii  in  ll.il-  of  In  an  ;  put  them  on  the  tire 
and  hla.ich  tiiem:  as  .-1.011  as  a  pin  will  go 
into  them  easily,  they  are  sufficiently  done; 
nib  off  the  second  skin,  and  throw  them 
into  col  I  water,  with  the  juice  of  a  leaion. 
ClarilY  and  l>oil  a  |>ound  an  I  a  half  of  sugar 
Li  pi  tit  lisse,  and  haxing  drained  \oiir 
rhcstnuis,  put  them  into  the  sugar  with  die 
juice  1. 1  a  lemon,  tin-  qnai  ter  of  a  glass  of 
iwrr  w.iler;  put  t!l'-se  on  die  lire 
f ir  a  .-Ii  ii  1  lime,  but  nol  to  let  theiii  boil: 
th'-n  lake  t!icai  oil  ;m  I  set  them  by.  The 
next  day  drain  l!ie  chc.-Miits,  and  boil  up 
tin-  simp  four  limes ;  then  add  more  sug  ir, 
and  having  U>iled  it  to  toufflr,  put  in  the 
chestnuts;  lilanch  them  instantly  aflei  wards, 
aii.l  put  t item  into  compolicrs. 

CHESTNUT  COMPOTE.  (2)  Roa«t 
your  <  lir.-tn.ils  us  for  the  dessert,  and 
when  th.-y  are  |«-elnl  and  .-kimieil,  put  them 
into  a  -.uii-ejMii,  with  a  f|'i.irter  of  a  pound 

.  and  half  a  glass  of  water ;  let 
them  Dimmer  1-n  a  i|ii.iiter  t>{  an  hour; 

in  a  little  lemon-juice,  ;ind  when 
ready  to  serve,  strew  powder-sugar  over 
them. 

!  \IT  CREAM.  (1)  Pound 
tweniy-liu-  roasted  chestnuts  in  a  mortar, 
with  a  bull-  milk  ;  tln-n  put  the  paste  so  made 

i  pan,  with  the  y>lks  of  two  egg*, 
h.ilfa  pint  if  milk,  t  wo  ounces  of  butter,  and 
four  ounces  of  jxmder-Biigar;  wlien  it  has 


CHESTNUT  CREAM.  (2)  Roast,  and 

llicn  pound  a  quarter  of  a  hundred  of  chest- 
nuts, with  a  small  quantity  of  milk  ;  to  this 
add  tlie  yolks  of  two  emjs,  a  pint  of  milk, 
ii  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powder-mgar,  and 
.-ili.'iit  an  ounce  of  butter.  Boil  these  to- 
gether for  some  minutes,  then  strain  it,  and 
set  it  by  to  cool. 

CHESTNUT  CUSTARD.    Takethree 

pi. mi  Is  of  well  roasted  chestnuts,  removing 
KIK  h  parts  as  were  colored  by  the  fire,  and 
pound  them  with  a  pound  of  fresh  butter; 
when  a  smooth  paste,  add  three-quarters  of 
a  piiun.l  of  powder-sugar,  the  yolks  of 
twelve  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  few 
spoonful*  of  whipped  cream,  the  whites 
w  hipped  firm,  ami  finish  the  custard  as  di- 
rected. 

CHESTNUT  PASTE.  Make  a  mar- 
malade by  lioiling  chestnuts  in  water,  and 
rubbing  them  through  a  sieve,  then  pound 
them,  and  to  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
this,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  any  other 
fruit  marmalade;  mix  them  well  up  with  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar  boiled  to  grand 
plume;  put  it  into  your  moulds  and  bake  it 
as  cherry,  or  any  other  paste. 

CHINESE  TEMPLE.  Having  boiled 
an  ounce  of  double-refined  sugar,  with  half 
an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  little  water,  set  it 
by  till  cold,  and  then  adil  to  it  an  egg  well 
l'i-:iii-ii.  With  thiii,  make  four  ounces  of 
(lour  into  a  very  stilf  paste  ;  roll  it  out  aa 
thin  as  possible,  and  lay  it  in  a  set  of  tins 
the  form  of  a  temple,  and  bake  them  in  a 
K!OW  oven.  When  cold,  take  the  paste 
from  the  tins,  and  join  each  piece  together 
according  to  the  pro|x>r  forms,  with  isin- 
glass and  water.  The  lower  part,  of 
course,  ought  to  be  stronger  than  the  top, 
in  order  that  it  may  sustain  the  weight  of 
the  whole.  Tlie  pieces  also  must  be  cut 
us  exact  as  possible  to  the  shape  of  the 
tins. 

CHOCOLATE  ALMONDS.    Take  a 

pi. mid  of  chocolate  finely  grated,  and  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  the  ln-st  augur,  finely 
lifted ;  soak  some  gum-dragon  in  omnge- 
llower  water,  and  work  them  into  what 
form  you  please  ;  the  paste  must  be  stiff; 
dry  them  in  a  Hove.  Von  may  write  de- 
vices on  paper,  roli  them  up,  and  put  them 
in  the  middle. 

CHOCOLATE   BONBONS.       Put  a 

quarter  of  a  pound  of  chocolate  over  a  fire, 
to  dissolve  it;  and  having  boiled  two  pound* 


CHO 


272 


CHO 


of  sugar  to  forte  perle,  put  a  spoonful  or 
two  into  the  chocolate;  stir  it  till  it  forms  a 
thin  paste,  and  then  pour  it  on  the  sugar, 
and  boil  both  together  to  caramel.  In  the 
meantime  melt  a  little  butter,  skim,  and 
pour  it  off  clear  into  a  basin  ;  take  a  spoon- 
ful of  it,  and  rub  it  with  your  hand  over  a 
marble  slab  or  table:  on  this  pour  the  choco- 
late and  sugar  ;  then  take  two  eivls  of  a 
sword-blade,  (one  in  each  hand),  and  press 
lines  an  inch  apart  all  down  it ;  cross  them 
in  like  manner,  so  as  to  mark  the  sugar  in 
small  squares  all  over  ;  doing  it  as  quick  as 
possible,  lest  the  sugar  should  cool  before 
you  have  done  ;  then  pass  the  sword-blade 
between  the  marble  and  the  sugar  ;  lay  un- 
der the  latter  sheets  of  paper  ;  and  when 
cold,  break  it  into  pieces  according  to  the 
murks,  and  wrap  each  square  in  paper. 

CHOCOLATE  COMFITS.  Take  two 
ounces  of  chocolate,  beat  it  small  with  a* 
little  warm  water  over  the  fire;  when  it  is 
dissolved  and  reduced  to  a  paste,  pour  it 
upon  a  pound  of  masse  pain  or  sweet 
paste,  to  which  add  some  cinnamon  or  va- 
nilla at  discretion  ;  mix  the  whole  well  to- 
gether ;  then  spread  it  over  some  wafer 
shapes,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 
If  die  paste  does  not  apj>ear  deep  colored 
enough,  you  may  color  it  with  bolus  Ar- 
menicum. 

CHOCOLATE  CONSERVE  (1)  Dis- 
solve two  ounces  of  good  chocolate  in  a 
little  water,  put  it  int  .  a  skillet  with  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  boiled  to  perle  ;  keep  the 
tiiigar  stirring,  and  when  it  boils  put  the 
conserve  into  moulds. 

CHOCOLATE  CONSERVE.  (2)  Dis- 
solve a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  choco- 
late in  a  small  quantity  of  claritied  sugar; 
boil  a  pound  of  sugar  to  the  premiere 
plume,  put  your  chocolate  into  it,  stirring 

\  ..'":.  '. 

it  well  to  mix  it;  serve  it  whilst  it  is  warm. 

CHOCOLATE  DROPS.  Take  one 
pound  ami  a  half  of  chocolate,  put  it  on  a 
pewter  sheet  or  plate,  and  put  it  in  the 
oven  just  to  warm  the  chocolate  ;  then  put 
it  into  a  copper  •  stru  pan,  witli  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar ; 
mix  it  well  over  the  fire,  take  it  off,  and 
roll  it  in  pieces  the  size  of  s.uall  m.irbles, 
put  them  on  white  paper,  an, I  when  they 
are  all  on,  take  the  slieet  of  paper  by  euch 
corner,  and  lift  it  up  and  down  so  that  the 
paper  may  touch  the  table  earh  time,  and 
by  that  means  you  will  see  the  drops  come 
quite  fat,  about  the  size  of  a  sixpence  ;  put 
some  stig.tr  nonpareils  over  them,  and  c.iv<  r 
all  that  are  on  the  paper,  lliL-n  tli.ike  them 
off,  and  you  will  see  all  the  chocolate  droju 


are  covered  with  the  sugar  nonpareils;  let 
them  stand  till  cold,  and  they  will  come  off 
well,  and  then  put  them  in  a  box  paj>ered. 

CHOCOLATE    ICE    CREAM.      (IX 

Take  any  quantity  of  chocolate,  melt  it  over 
the  fire  in  a  small  pan;  uheu  melted  pour 
it  into  that  in  which  you  are  to  make  your 
cream;  break  your  yolks  of  eggs  into  it, 
(four  eggs  to  every  pint  of  cream)  add  some 
pounded  loaf  sugar  to  it,  keep  stirring  con- 
tinually; then  add  your  cream  by  little  and 
little,  stirring  and  turning  it  till  the  whole 
is  mixed  properly  together;  then  set  your 
pan  over  the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  with  a 
wooden  spoon  till  you  see  your  composition 
is  near  boiling,  then  take  it  off  immediate- 
ly, for,  from  the  moment  you  set  your  com- 
position over  the  *ire  'ill  that  it  offers  to 
boil,  it  has  MiHicient  time  to  incorporate 
well  and  thicken  sufficiently,  without  need 
of  boiling;  and  should  you  let  it  boil,  you 
would  risk  the  turning  your  cream  into 
whey,  on  account  of  the  yolks  of  eggs,  which 
would  do  too  much.  Take  great  care 
likewise  your  cream  is  fresh  and  sweet, 
for  otherwise  as  soon  as  it  is  warm  it  will 
turn  to  curds  and  whey;  therefore,  be  care- 
ful, stir  it  Continually,  from  the  time  you 
set  it  on  the  fire  till  you  take  it  off;  then 
put  it  in  the  sabotiere  to  make  it  congeal 
after  the  usual  manner. 

CHOCOLATE    ICE    CREAM.      (2) 

Dissolve  the  chocolate  in  a  little  water  on 
a  slow  fire;  when  properly  done,  mix  it 
with  a  pint  of  cream,  three  yolks  of  new 
laid  eggs,  and  about  half  a  pound  of  sugar. 

CHOCOLATE  ICE  WATER.  Take 
three  ounces  of  chocolate,  warm  it,  and 
mix  with  it  half  a  gill  of  sirup,  and  half  a 
pint  of  water;  mix  it  well,  and  freeze  it 
thick. 

CHOCOLATE  MACAROONS.   Put 

a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chocolate  on  a  tin- 
plate  over  a  coal  fire,  and  when  it  is  dis- 
solved pour  it  on  a  plate;  put  to  it  a  sjxx/n- 
ful  or  two  of  sweet  almond  paste,  m.ide  as 
for  macaroons,  stir  it  in  well,  and  then  pour 
it  upon  the  remainder  of  die  alm.md  paste, 
in  which  you  have  mixed  a  tea-s|x>onful  of 
powdered  cinnamon  or  v.mill.i,  or  both: 
beat  them  together  well  in  a  mnrtar,  lay 
them  on  ptiper,  and  bake  them  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  moderate  men. 

CHOCOLATE  PARFAIT  AMOUR. 
For  four  bottles  of  brandy,  take  one  pound 
of  the  best  chocolate,  cut  in  small  bits;  a 
little  salt,  two  cloves,  and  a  little  cinna- 
mon; you  must  infuse  all  in  the  brandy,  with 
two  biitlles  and  half  a  pint  of  water,  xvidi 


CIN 


273 


CIN 


whites  of  eggs,  and  filler  it  through  the  pa- 
per. You  inn-i  lie  careful  not  to  lake  more 
than  two  bottles  from  every  four,  except 
from  the  cinnamon,  from  which  \ou  are  to 
take  as  much  as  \<>u  can  get. 

CHOCOLATE  PASTILS.  Take  a 
little  chocolate,  which  put  in  a  pan  over  the 
fire  to  melt  it ;  stir  it  with  a  spoon ;  w  hen 
it  is  melted,  take  half  a  pound  of  loaf  su- 
gar, pounded  in  a  mortar  and  silted,  which 
dissolve  in  a  little  clear  water.  When  that 
is  done,  put  in  \onr  chocolate;  if  you  find 
the  paste  too  thick,  add  a  little  water, 
enough  to  bring  it  to  that  degree  of  liquidity 
(ha!  \  .ii  may  take  it  up  on  a  knife;  then 
take  half  a  sheet  of  pa|M»r,  and  cover  it  with 
little  round  and  flat  drops,  which  we  call 
pastils,  of  the  si/.e  of  a  sixj>ence;  let  them 
dry  naturally  in  a  cupljoard;  and  when  dry, 
take  (hem  oil'  fiom  the  paper,  and  put  them 
in  uo> 

CHOCOLATE  PASTIL  PASTE. 
Melt  half  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon  in  a  little 
water  till  it  is  quite  dissolved  and  thick ; 
sift  it  through  a  linen  cloth,  jx.und  it  in  a 
mortar  with  a  quarter-part  of  whites  of 

<  hocolatc  cake  bruised,  and  half  a 
pound  of  fine  jxiwder-siigar,  mixed  by  de- 

.1  adding  either  more  or  less  sugar, 
according  a~  die  paste  is  malleable;  it  must 
be  pretty  firm;  firm  it  into  what  flowers  or 

-  .11  please,  as  shells,  lozenges,  any 
kind  of  corn  or  hean.«,  &c. 

CHOCOLATE  PETIT  PAINS.  These 

are  made  ia  the  same  way  as  1'etits  Pains 
a  la  Duchtxse  (see  that  article),  but  with- 
out the  dorure.  When  cold  fill  them  with 
a  cream  patissiere,  mixed  with  two  ounces 
of  vanilla  chocolate,  and  sweetened  with 
sugar,  flavored  with  vanilla;  tlwn  put  three 
!  sugar,  the  same  of  choco- 
late, ami  half  tin-  white  of  an  egg  into  a 
pan;  stir  these  ingredients  with  a  silver 
spoon  until  you  have  a  smooth  transpaient 
glaze,  with  which  mask  the  top  and  sides 
of  the  petit*  pains,  spreading  it  equally 
with  the  blade,  of  a  knife. 

CHOCOLATE    SWEETMEATS. 

Take  two  ounces  of  chocolate,  and  break  it 
into  a  little  warm  water,  put  it  on  the  fire, 
mid  when  quite  dissolved,  mix  it  with  a 
|x inn. 1  of  inarch|iane  paste,  to  which  may  lie 
added  vanilla  or  cinnamon;  stir  it  up  well, 
and  then  spread  it  on  wafer-|Ki|irr  in  what 
f.n:i-  vou  please,  and  bake  them  in  a  mod- 
erate o\.-n.  If  (he  :.we«  tmeats  be  not  snlh- 
ciently  dark  colored,  add  a  little  bnl-ammo- 
niac. 

CINNAMON     CAKES.      WbUk    up 


half  a  dozen  eggs  with  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  rose  water;  add  to  it  a  pound  of  sifted 
sugar,  a  dessert-spoonful  of  powdered  cinna- 
mon, and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  flour  to 
make  it  into  a  paste;  roll  it  on*  thin,  and 
cut  it  into  whatever  forms  your  fancy  may 
dictate,  place  (hem  on  paper,  and  bake 
them.  When  done,  remove  them  from  the 
pa|>er.  Keep  them  dry. 

CINNAMON'  CANDIED.  (1)  Soak  cin- 
namon in  water  for  four  and  twentv  hours, 
and  then  cut  it  into  pieces  alxmt  an  inch 
long  ;  prepare  some  sugar  to  grand  lissf, 
und  give  the  cinnamon  a  Ixiil  in  it;  drain 
and  dry  it  in  a  stove  to  the  pro|>er  consis- 
tence ;  then  put  it  in  the  moulds  with  sugar 
Ixiiled  to  sovffli,  and  when  half  cold,  dry 
it.  Before  the  candy  is  removed  from  the 
moulds,  they  should  In-  laid  on  one  side  for 
some  time.  Keep  them  in  paper  in  a  dry 


CINNAMON  CANDIED.  (2)  Cut 
some  cinnamon  into  small  sticks  of  alxiut  an 
inch  or  an  inch  and  a  half  long;  then  put 
them  into  thin  sugar,  and  boil  ihem  as  it 
were  in  a  sirup.  Then  take  ofT  the  pan, 
and  set  it  by  for  five  or  six  hours  to  soak, 
lake  them  out  and  lay  them  on  a  wire-grate, 
dry  them  thoroughly  in  the  stove;  after- 
wards |nit  them  in  order  in  tin  moulds 
upon  little  grates  made  for  the  purpose,  and 
set  into  the  moulds,  so  that  there  may  be 
three  rows  set  one  alxive  another,  se|>arated 
by  those  grates.  In  the  meantime,  ln.il  sii- 
.  .1  till  it  is  blown,  and  pour  it  into  your 
mould,  so  that  some  of  it  may  lie  ii|xjn  the 
uppermost  grate;  then  set  them  in  the  sine 
with  a  covered  fire,  and  let  them  stand  all 
night  ;  the  next  morning  take  notice  whether 
llie  cinnamon  IN;  well  coagulated;  turn  the 
mould  upside  down,  and  set  it  in  the  stove 
again,  w  iih  a  plate  underneath;  and  when  it 
is  thoroughly  drained,  take  out  your  slicks 
of  cinnamon,  loosening  them,  by  little  and 
little,  gently  ;  then  lay  them  upon  a  sieve, 
set  in  the  stove,  and  dry  them  thoroughly. 

CINNAMON,       CONSERVE      OF. 

Bruise  four  drachms  of  cinnamon,  dilute  it 
with  a  little  clarified  sugar,  or  sirup  of  mal- 
lows; boil  two  pounds  of  sugar  to  pttit 
castt,  throw  in  the  cinnamon,  slir  it  well, 
and  tlien  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  when  the 
sugar  begins  to  whiten,  pour  tlie  conserve 
into  cases  or  moulds,  and  dry  it  as  usual. 

'CINNAMON,  DRAGEES  OR  SU- 
GARED. Soak  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
the  best  cinnamon  in  wicks,  for  twelve  houra 
in  w  atcr  to  soften  it  ;  at  the  end  of  that  lime, 
cut  it  into  slips,  lay  them  on  a  sieve  in  a 
warm  place  for  some  days.  Wlien  quite 


CIN 


274 


CIT 


hard  and  dry,  boil  some  fine  sugar  to  the 
degree  grand  perle;  have  ready  a  quantity 
of  fine  powder,  and  proceed  in  the  same 
manner  aa  in  doing  Almond  Dragees, 
until  the  cinnamon  sticks  are  of  the  proper 
thickness;  those  which  are  to  be  twisted  or 
curled,  shoul  I  not  l>e  so  thick  as  the  others. 
Be  equally  particolar  in  removing  the  sugar, 
that  cakes  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  as  in 
making  Almond  Dragees. 

CINNAMON  DRAGEES,  COMMON. 
Infuse  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  gum-dragon, 
in  a<  i!i:ic:h  water  ;is  will  cover  it;  the  next 
day  put  the  infusion  into  a  mortar,  and  stir 
it  well  with  a  pestle,  and  the  longer  it  is 
stirred  the  whiter  it  becomes;  in  rathor 
more  than  a  quarter  of  r.n  hour,  add  to  it 
the  caked  si'gar  which  was  remo\ed  from 
the  preserving-pan,  and  which  must  be  well 
pounded  and  sifted,  also  a  pound  of  powder- 
sugar,  :\  S[X>oHiil  of  cinnamon  powder,  and, 
by  degrees  two  or  three  pounds  of  flow; 
OOKten  the  whole  occasionally  wild  water; 
when  the  paste  is  of  a  proper  consistence, 
place  it  on  the  slab  or  pasteboard,  knead  it 
well  for  a  short  time,  roll  it  out  in  sheets, 
not  thicker  than  the  eighth  of  an  inch,  und 
then  cut  it  into  slips  of  the  same  size  as  the 
cinnamon  (see  above,)  put  them  on  paper 
or  a  sieve  in  a  warm  place  for  some  days. 
Then  buil  some  common  sugar  to  perle, 
nnd  sugar  the  slips  of  paste  as  above  direct- 
ed; instead  of  the  fine  powder,  flour  is  su!li- 
cient,  until  the  last  two  layers,  when  the 
powder  may  be  used  to  give  them  whiteness. 
When  of  the  requisite  size,  lay  them  on 
sieves  to  dry.  In  a  few  days  there  may  l>e 
curled,  and  colored,  which  is  done  in  the 
same  manner  as  coriander  seeds.  Observe, 
fine  sugared  cinnamon  i.j  always  white. 

CINNAMON,  ESSENCE  OF.  This 
is  mado  by  infusing  oil  of  cinnamon  in 
highly  rectified  spirits  of  wine,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  half  a  drachm  of  the  former  to  an 
ounce  of  the  latter. 

CINNAMON  PASTILS.  Dissolve 
half  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon  in  a  glass  of 
water,  and  strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve 
into  a  mortar,  and  add  to  it  a  tea-spoonful 
of  powdered  cinnamon,  and  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  sifted  sugar  to  make  the  paste  of 
a  proper  consistence;  form  into  such  figures 
as  you  may  fancy,  and  dry  them  in  a  stove. 
Keep  them  in  a  dry  place. 

CINNAMON  SWEETMEATS.  Take 
a  pound  of  marchpane  (taste,  and  dilute 
it  with  as  many  whites  of  eggs  as  will 
make  it  spread  easily  with  a  knife;  add  to 
this,  a  spoonful  or  two  of  prepared  bolt-am- 
moniac, which  will  give  it  a  fine  reJ  tinge, 


and  half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon-powder. 
When  all  these  ingredients  are  well  mixed, 
cut  some  wafer-paper  into  such  forms  as  you 
may  think  proper,  and  lay  on  them  the  paste 
alxntt  the  thickness  of  the  eighth  of  an  inch ; 
place  them  on  paper,  and  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Wlien  done,  they  may  be 
finished  in  the  following  manner: — Boil 
some  sugar  in  orange-flower  water,  to  la 
plume,  and  as  von  take  the  sweetmeats  from 
the  oven;  dip  a  h.tir-penril  into  the  sirup, 
and  brush  thorn  over;  this  dries  almost  im- 
mediately, and  considerably  improves  the 
look  of  them. 

CINNAMON  WAFERS.  Pound  and 
sift  six  ounces  of  sugar,  and  put  it  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  melied  fresh  butter,  the 
same  of  flour,  half  an  ounce  of  powdered 
cinnamon,  and  a  small  egg;  stirthc.-e  up  in 
an  eartheiman-  v«.-sel,  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  milk  to  make  it  into  a  thin,  but 
not  too  clear,  jiaste.  Make  an  iron  plate 
quite  hot,  rub  it  well  with  butter,  then  lay 
on  it  a  spoonful  of  il:o  p.iste;  fry  it,  and 
when  brown  on  both  sides,  roll  it,  still  over 
the  hot  iron,  round  a  small  stick;  do  this 
until  all  the  paste  is  ii.-ed. 

CINNAMONUM.  Take  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  cinnamon,  two  drachms  of  mace, 
and  one  ounce  of  stick-liquorice;  bruise 
•heiii  well,  and  then  put  them  into  three 
quarts  of  t!ic  he.-t  I. randy;  let  the  iut'ision 
stand  fur  sume  da\s  l-et">re  you  distil  it; 
dissolve  four  poun  Is  i.f  sugar  III  tluee  pints 
J'.nd  a  ha'.f  of  water;  mix  this  sirup  wilh  the 
liqueur,  and  then  strain  them.  This  is 
sometimes  called  Oil  of  Cinnamon. 

CITRON,  CANDIED.  Pare  the  citrons 
very  thin  and  narrow,  and  throw  them  into 
water;  these  are  called  faggots;  then  cut 
the  citron  imo  slices  of  any  thickness  yon 
think  proper;  takeout  the  inner  part  with 
great  care,  so  as  to  leave  only  the  white 
ring,  an  I  put  them  with  the  faggots  into 
boiling  water;  when  tender,  drain  them. 
Boil  a  sufficient  quantity  uf  clarified  sugar 
to  souffle;  then  put  in  the  rings,  and  boil 
them  ti;g«(her.  Take  it  from  the  fire,  and 
when  a  little  cool,  rub  the  sugar  against  the 
side  of  the  pre  erving-pan  with  the  back  of 
a  spoon;  as  soon  ;is  it  becomes  while,  take 
out  the  rings  with  a  fork  very  carefully,  one 
by  one,  and  lay  them  on  a  wire-grate  to 
drain:  boil  and  proceed  with  the  faggots  in 
a  similar  way;  when  taken  out,  cut  them 
into  proper  lengths  with  a  pair  of  scissors, 
and  lay  them  also  on  the  wire  to  drain. 

CITRON  PASTE.  Cut  off  the  ends 
of  the  citrons,  take  out  the  middle,  with  all 
the  seeds;  boil  them  in  some  water;  and 


CJT 


275 


COF 


when  quite  fender,  tal-:e  thorn  from  the  firr, 
and  ilirnw  tlioin  info  mid  water  a  moment; 
then,  having  pressed  them  in  a  cloth  to  get 
the  water  out,  pound  and  sifl  them.  To 
e\ery  quarter  itf  a  |xuind  of  this  marmalade 
put  half  a  |K)iiiid  of  clarified  sii^ir;  simmer 
them  together,  .-lining  constantly  imlil  well 
mixed  ;  ilHMi|)iit  them  inlo  moulds,  and  place 
them  in  a  st  .\u  to  dry. 

CITRON     WHITE     PRESERVED. 

Lay  some  white  citrons,  cut  into  pieces,  in 
salt  and  water  for  four  or  five  hours;  then, 
having  washed  them  in  cold  water,  boil 
Ui em ;  when  ten  ier,  drain,  and  lay  ihern 
into  as  much  clarified  siv;ar  ,i<  wilf  cover 
them.  The  next  day  drain  off  the  simp, 
and  boil  it;  when  <|>iire  smooth  and  col:l, 
pour  it  on  the  citrons:  let  them  stand  twen- 
ty-four hours;  then  I  •nil  the  sirup  again, 
and  pi:t  in  the  citrons.  The  third  day, 
Kiil  Iwth  t. Aether,  and  put  them  into  moulds 
to  candv . 

CITRON  J'RKSF.UVKJ)  LIQUID. 
Cut  a  slit  in  the  sides  of  some  small  citrons, 
so  that  the  inside  may  lake  the  sugar  as 
well  .1-  the  oiil.-ide,  and  put  them  over  tin- 
fire  in  some  water;  whenever  lliey  are  near 
boiling,  put  coli)  v.  ater  to  them.  As  soon 
as  tin-  citrons  ri»e  to  the  top,  take  them  oul, 
and  throw  tliem  into  co'.l  water.  They 
must  then  I*  put  on  the  hre  again,  in  tlie 
same  water,  and  Ixtiled  gently  until  tender; 
tlien  take  them  out.  and  pnt  tliem  in  Cold 
water.  After  this,  l*>il  them  seven  or  eight 
tinifs  in  clarilird  >u;u;  |xmr  the  whole 
into  an  earthen  pan,  and  let  it  stand.  The 
next  day  drain  the  fruit,  and  boil  up  the 
sirup  twenty  or  thirty  times;  add  a  little, 
more  sugar,  and  (xiiir  it  over  the  citrons; 
do  this  fin'  tin.  days,  increasing 

tlie  degree  to  which  yon  Ixiil  the  sugar  daily, 
so  that  at  the  last  U.iling  tlie  degree  may 
he  em  perle.  The  fruit  may  then  be  put 
into  pots. 

To  pn-ene  them  dry,  they  must  be  done 
exactly    the  same;   only,  instead  of  putting 
tlie  fruit  into  pot-",  they  should  be  dried  on  | 
sieves  in  a  stove.     With  the  remaining  su-  | 
gar  the  cilrmi-  may  be  glazed. 

CITRON  RATAFIA.  Pare  seven  or 
eight  citrons  very  thin;  cut  the  peel  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  jar,  with 
three  pints  of  brandy,  and  let  them  inf.i.-e 
for  three  weeks;  thdi  add  to  tins  a  pound 
of  sugar,  Ixjiled  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  and 
well  ?kimmrd;  let  it  stand  twelve  or  fifteen 
days  Linger,  when  it  may  !>e  bottled. 

(Tn:<>\.  siurp  OF.   (i)   Put  into 

a  china  bowl  alternate  layers  of  fine  powder- 
eugar,  and  citron,  pare<{,  and  cut  in  very 


thin  slices,  and  let  them  sfand  till  the  next 
day;  ilu-n  strain  off  tlie  sirup,  and  clarify  it 
over  a  gentle  fire. 

CITRON,  SIRUP  OF.  (2)  Put  tlie 
rinds  of  three  citrons  into  an  earthen  ves- 
sel, and  strain  on  them  the  juice;  to  this 
put  a  little  water;  pour  the  mixture  into  a 
basin  in  which  is  four  pounds  of  clarified 
sugar,  boiled  to  fort  boulet.  Place  this 
basin  in  a  large  saucepan,  half  filled  with 
water,  over  the  lire;  stir  the  contents  of 
the  ha:-m  freqaeotl]  ;  and  when  the  sugar  ig 
entirely  dissolved,  and  the  sirup  quite  clear, 
take  tlie  saucepan  fiom  the  fire,  and  let  it 
cool.  As  soon  as  it  is  cold  it  may  be  boi- 
tled. 

CITRON  NELLE     RATAFIA.       For 

two  quarts  of  the  best  brandy,  take  tlie 
zestes  or  rinds  of  a  dozen  fine  sound  lem- 
*ons,  two  drachms  of  bruised  cinnamon, 'an 
ounce  of  coriander,  and  two  pounds  of  su- 
gar, dissolved  in  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water; 
infuse  the  whole  for  a  month,  then  strain 
and  bottle  it. 

ri.OVF.S,  OIL  OF.  This  is  made  in 
the  same  manner  as  cinnamonum ;  the  quanti- 
ties are,  an  ounce  of  cloves  to  three  quarts 
of  lirandv ,  and  four  pounds  of  sugar  dis- 
solved in  fin  pints  cf  water. 

CLOVE  PASTILS.  Are  made  like 
those  of  cinnamon.  The  proportions  are 
six  cloves  to  half  an  ounce  of  gum-dragon. 

CLOVES,  SIRUP  OF.  Put  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  cloves,  and  a  quart  of  boiling 
water  into  a  slew-pan,  cover  it  close,  and 
l»'il  them  gently  for  half  an  hour;  drain  the 
cloves,  and  to  a  pint  of  the  liquor  put  two 
pounds  of  sugar ;  be-.it  up  two  eggs  in  a  little 
c»l  I  water,  add  them  to  the  above,  and  sim- 
mer the  win  Ic.  till  it  becomes  a  strong  sirup. 
When  cold,  bottle  it. 

COFFEE  BONBONS.  Take  about  a 
pint  of  coffee  made  wiih  water;  put  in  it  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar ;  set  it  on  the  fire  and 
boil  it  to  a  high  degree;  then  add  u  full  pint 
of  double  cream,  and  let  it  lx>il  again,  keep- 
ing continually  stirring  till  it  comes  to  cara- 
mel height ;  to  know  when  it  is  cnme  to 
that  point,  you  must  have  a  basin  of  water 
by  you ;  dip  your  finger  in  it,  and  put  it 
quickly  in  your  sugar,  then  in  tlie  water 
again,  to  remove  the  sugar,  which  will  have 
stuck  to  it ;  tak,e  a  bit  of  it  in  your  teeth; 
if  it  is  hard  in  its  crackling,  take  it  off,  it 
la  sufficiently  done;  pour  it  ii|>on  a  tin  plate, 
which  must  be  rubbed  before  with  a  little 
butter,  or  it  will  stick  to  the  plate;  then 
spread  k  with  a  tolling  pin;  (observe,  the 


CON 


276 


CRE 


rolling  pin  must  likewise  be  rubbed  with 
butter,  for  fear  it  should  stick;)  when  it  is 
warm,  you  may  cut  it  into  little  squares,  lo- 
zenges, or  any  other  shaped  pastilles,  and 
draw  a  few  strokes  over  them  with  a  knife. 

COFFEE  CONSERVES.  Clarify  and 
boil  to  the  first  degree  a  pound  of  sugar ; 
take  the  sugar  off  the  fire,  and  put  into  it 
one  cup  of  coffee ;  stir  it  alxmt  until  it  comes 
to  the  sixth  degree,  that  the  conserve  may 
take  the  sugar  and  dry. 

COFFEE  EGGS.  Make  some  good 
strong  coffee;  let  it  rest  to  clear  as  usual, 
and  sweeten  it  with  sugar  according  to  dis- 
cretion ;  beat  up  six  yolks  of  eggs,  with 
about  four  cups  of  coffee,  and  sift  it;  pour 
this  into  little  moulds  in  the  form  of  eggs,  or 
of  any  other,  (do  not  fill  them  quite,)  and 
bake  in  a  mild  oven,  or  a  Dutch  one,  or 
with  a  brazing-pan ;  cover  between  twfi 
fires.  They  are  made  after  this  manner,  in 
the  shape  of  any  fruits  or  birds,  if  you  have 
proper  moulds,  either  of  copper  or  china, 
&c. 

COLTSFOOT,  SIRUP  OF.  Take  of 
coltsfoot  six  ounces,  maidenhair  two  ounces, 
hyssop  one  ounce,  liquorice-root  one  ounce; 
boil  them  in  two  quarts  of  spring  water  till 
one  fourth  is  consumed;  then  strain  it,  and 
put  to  the  liquor  two  pounds  of  fine  powder- 
sugar;  clarify  it  with  the  whites  of  eggs, 
and  boil  it  till  it  is  nearly  as  thick  us 
honey. 

CONSERVES,  DRIED.  For  all  sorts 
of  conserves,  the  sugar  should  be  prepared 
to  the  ninth  degree,  according  to  the  quan- 
tity wanted ;  they  are  all  made  much  after 
the  same  manner,  the  only  difference  being 
in  the  quantity  of  fruits  proposed.  Con- 
serves are  made  with  all  sorts  of  sweetmeat 
marmalade,  sifted  in  a  sieve,  and  soaked 
pretty  dry  over  a  slow  fire ;  use  about  half 
a  pound  of  the  sugar  thus  prepared,  to  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweetmeat  marmalade ; 
take  the  sugar  off  the  fire  to  work  them 
well  together;  warm  the  whole  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  pour  it  into  paper  cases  made  for 
the  purpose;  when  it  is  cool  it  may  be  cut 
into  cakes  of  what  size  you  please. 

CONSERVE   OF    FOUR    FRUITS. 

Take  strawberries,  currants,  cherries,  and 
raspberries,  of  each  a  quarter  of  a  pound, 
and  three  pounds  of  sugar.  Bruise  your 
fruit,  and  having  strained  off  the  juice,  put 
it  in  a  saucepan  over  a  gentle  fire,  stirring 
it  till  reduced  to  half.  Dissolve  the  sugar, 
skim,  and  boil  it  to  cause;  take  it  from  the 
fire  while  you  put  in  the  juice,  then  put  it 
on  again,  and  give  it  one  boil,  take  it  off, 


and  keep  stirring  till  the  sugar  bubbles,  when 
the  conserve  may  be  poured  into  moulds. 

CONSERVES,  HARD  IN  MOULDS. 
These  are  made  in  the  same  manner  aa 
other  conserves,  except  that  they  are  com- 
posed of  sugar,  and  distilled  aromatic  wa- 
ter; and  may  be  colored  like  pastils. 

CORIANDER  DRAGEES.    Take  any 

quantity  of  coriander  seeds,  put  them  in  the 
tossing-pan  over  the  fire,  and  let  them  warm ; 
when  they  are  warm  throw  in  about  half  a 
glass  of  vinegar,  stir  them  well  till  they  are 
dry  ;  have  clarified  sugar,  which  boil  in  an- 
other pan ;  then  when  the  corianders  are 
dry,  add  a  little  gum  to  them,  and  do  the 
same  again  till  they  are  dry,  and  continue 
so  doing  till  you  see  the  corianders  are  cov- 
ered to  the  size  you  want  (o  have  them; 
when  that  is  done,  take  the  corianders  out 
from  the  pan,  wash  them  well,  anil  put  them 
in  again,  and  stir  them  well  till  they  are  all 
warm  ;  then  take  your  clarified  sugar,  which 
you  have  previously  boiled  to  the  first  de- 
gree ;  when  this  is  done,  put  it  in  an  instru- 
ment of  copper,  made  on  purpose  for  the 
operation,  and  at  the  bottom  of  \\Miich  there 
is  a  little  hole;  hang  it  up  by  a  packthread 
string,  that  the  sugar  may  fall  from  about  a 
yard  height  into  the  pan  where  the  corian- 
ders are ;  while  the  sugar  falls  into  your  pan 
keep  stirring  well  your  dragees  till  you  see 
they  are  well  pearled  over,  or  rough  and 
grainy ;  when  they  are  sufficiently  so,  take 
them  out,  and  place  them  in  the  stove  to 
finish  drying. 

CORIANDER  SUGARED.  These 
seeds  are  sugared  in  the  same  manner  as 
sugared  almonds. 

CREAM,    BAIN-MARIE.      Mix    up 

whatever  ingredient  of  which  the  cream 
is  to  be  made,  with  eggs  and  sugar ;  for  the 
proportions,  see  the  respective  articles; 
strain  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  pour 
the  preparation  into  a  mould  lightly  buttered 
within  side.  Put  this  mould  into  a  large 
saucepan,  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  boil- 
ing water  to  reach  within  an  inch  of  the 
mould ;  place  the  saucepan  on  hot  ashes, 
cover  it,  and  place  hot  coals  on  the  lid; 
renew  the  fire  underneath  occasionally,  so 
as  to  keep  the  water  at  the  same  tempera- 
ture, that  is,  nearly,  but  never  quite,  boil- 
ing for  an  hour  and  a  half;  then,  if  the 
cream  is  properly  set,  which  may  be  known 
by  touching  it  with  your  finger,  and  observ- 
ing whether  it  may  be  easily  detached  from 
the  mould,  take  it  from  the  bain-marie  and 
let  it  stand ;  when  no  more  than  lukewarm, 
turn  it  out  on  your  dish. 

It  sometimes  happens,  unavoidably,  that 


CRE 


277 


CRO 


bubbles  arise  on  the  surface  of  '.he  cream ; 
in  such  a  case,  boil  a  glass  of  cream,  and 

add  to  it,  by  degrees,  three  yolks  of  eggs; 
stir  it  constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon;  mix 
three  ounces  of  line  Migar  with  it,  and  con- 
tinue stirring  it  over  the  lire,  till  of  a  proper 
consistence,  and  on  the  point  of  boiling, 
then  take  it  off  arid  strain  it.  When  the 
cream  is  ready  for  table,  cover  it  complete- 
ly with  the  last  made  cream,  which  will 
hide  its  defects. 

CREAM  BISCUITS.  Break  six  eggs, 
separate  the  volks  and  whites,  beat  the 
former  with  six  ounces  of  powder-sugar, 
and  the  same  of  flour;  whisk  the  whites, 
and  then  mix  them  together ;  add  to  it 
whip|>od  cream,  in  proportion  to  the  sugar 
and  tloiir,  stir  it  carefully,  pour  this  into 
moulds  or  paper  cases,  and  bake. 

CREAM    CARAMEL.     Put  a  pint  of 

milk  and  half  a  pint  of  cream,  with  a  bit 
of  cinnamon,  some  coriander-seeds,  and 
die  peel  of  a  yiuns;  lemon,  into  a  saucepan, 
and  li"il  (hem  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour; 
then  take  it  off  the  lire;  and  l»>il  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  with  half  a  glass  of  wa- 
ter, until  it  Ix'comes  of  a  nice  dark  color; 
take  it  off  the  Cue,  am  I  mix  with  the  cream; 
then  put  it  mi  the  tin-  again,  until  the  sugar 
and  cream  are  well  mixed  together;  then 
place  a  saucepan,  with  some  hot  water  in 
it,  over  hot  a>hcs ;  take  a  di.-h,  in  which 
you  intend  serving,  and  |x>ur  into  it  your 
cream,  then  place  it  in  the  sauce|xin ;  put 
on  the  lid  of  the  saucepan,  with  fire  atiove, 
and  let  it  boil  till  the  cream  Is  set.  Serve 
hot. 

CREAM,  SXOW.    Put  to  a  quart  of 

cream  the  whites  of  three  eggs  well  lieaten, 

four  spoonfuls  of  swi-et  wine,  sugar  to  your 

.d  a  bit  of  lemon-peel ;  whip  it  to  a 

froth ;  remove  the  peel,  and  serve  in  a  dish. 

CRKAM     OF     ANY    PRESERVED 

FRl'IT.  Take  half  a  pound  of  the  pulp 
of  any  preserved  fruit,  put  it  in  a  large  pan, 
put  to  it  the  w  hites  of  two  or  three  eggs,  beat 
together  well  for  an  hour;  take  it  off  widi 
a  spoon,  and  lav  it  heaped  on  a  dish,  or 
pla-s  s;ihei,  with  other  creams,  or  put  it 
in  the  middle  of  a  basin.  Raspberries  will 
not  do  this  way. 

CREAM    RHEMSH.      Put   over   the 
fire  a  pint  of  Khenish  wine,  a  stick  of  cin- 
namon,  anil   half  A  pound  of  sugar;   while 
this  is  Iniiling,  take  w\en  \olks  and  whites 
,    lieat    them    well   together   with    a 
whisk,  till  your  wine  is  half  driven  in  them, 
and  your  egjfa  10  a  sirup;  strike  it  very  5ut 
with  the  whi.-k,  till  it  comes  to  such  thick- 
24 


ness  that  you  may  lift  it  on  the  point  of  a 
knife,  but  be  sure  not  to  let  it  curdle;  add 
to  it  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  orange-flower 
water;  pour  it  into  your  dish;  garnish  it 
with  citron,  sugar,  or  biscuit,  and  serve. 

CREAM,  ROYAL  ICES.  Take  any 
quantity  of  cream,  add  to  it  yolks  of  eggs  in 
proportion  (that  is,  four  yolks  of  eggs  to 
every  pint  of  cream)  put  a  little  half  pound- 
ed coriander,  cinnamon,  orange  or  lemon- 
peel;  add  some  pounded  lump  sugar,  and 
set  it  on  the  fire  till  it  nearly  boils;  then 
pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  put  it  to  ice. 

CREAM,  WHITE  SHERBET.    Put 

the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  a  dessert  spoon- 
ful of  orange-flower  water  or  crisped  orange 
flowers  in  powder,  into  two  quarts  of  cream, 
and  boil  it  up  once  in  a  covered  saucepan; 
then  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  add  to  it  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  powder-sugar,  and 
as  soon  as  it  is  perfectly  dissolved,  pour  the 
whole  into  a  sorbetiere,  which  place  in  an 
ice  pail,  and  proceed  to  cool  it  as  directed. 
See  Sherbet. 

CREAM  SNOW.  Mix  a  quart  of 
cream  with  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  sweeten 
it  with  sugar  and  rose  water,  and  strain 
them ;  then  I, cat  up  the  cream  with  a  bundle 
of  reeds  tied  together,  or  with  a  whisk; 
and  aa  the  snow  rises  take  it  up  with  a 
spoon  in  the  cullender,  that  the  liquid  part 
may  run  out:  when  you  have  taken  off  as 
much  of  the  snow  as  you  please,  boil  the 
rest  of  the  cream,  w  ith  a  stick  of  cinnamon, 
some  cloves,  and  a  little  bruised  ginger; 
boil  it  till  it  is  thick;  strain  it,  and  when 
it  is  cold,  put  it  into  a  dish,  and  lay  your 
snow  upon  it. 

CREAM,    CARAMEL    WHIPPED. 

Boil  six  ounces  of  sugar  to  caramel,  and 
when  it  has  acquired  the  proper  reddish, 
yellow  tinge,  dissolve  it  in  half  a  glass 
of  boiling  water,  over  hot  a.-lirs;  after 
which,  it  must  be  reduced  to  a  rather  thick 
sirup.  When  cold,  mix  it  with  the  whip- 
ped cream  in  the  usual  way.  See  Whip- 
ped Cream. 

CROQUETTES    OF    DESTREES. 

Use  the  best  puff  paste ;  roll  it  pretty  thin, 
and  cut  it  into  different  shapes,  as  fancy 
leads ;  bake  it,  and  dress  each  piece  upon 
a  dish,  in  a  handsome  manner;  rub  them 
with  a  little  caramel,  to  make  diem  stick 
as  you  place  them ;  then  put  some  currant 
jelly  all  over  the  top,  and  make  what  flow- 
er or  design  you  please,  with  nonpareils  of 
different  colors,  round  it. 

CROQUETTES  OF  PARIS.    T«k« 


CUR 


278 


CUR 


A  stick  of  vanilla,  pound  it  with  two 
ounces  of  sugar,  and  silt  both  through  a 
silk  sieve;  mix  it  with  seven  ounces  of 
sugar,  well  dried  and  pounded,  and  half 
a  pound  of  fine  sifted  flour;  then  stir  in  the 
whites  of  four  eggs,  whipped  firm,  and 
work  the  whole  together  for  some  minutes. 

Heat  two  large  baking-plates  of  copper, 
rub  them  over  lightly  with  virgin  wax;  when 
they  are  cold,  take  a  spoonful  of  the  prepa- 
ration, and  lay  it  on  the  plate  the  same  as 
the  spoon-biscuit?,  taking  care  to  lay  them 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  apart ;  when  both 
plates  are  full,  place  them  on  stools,  in  the 
oven  or  stove ;  close  the  top,  and  lay  embers 
oVer  it,  so  that  the  croquettes  may  be  as  far 
removed  from  the  fire  as  possible ;  let  them 
remain  in  this  state  all  night;  the  next 
morning  put  them  into  a  moderate  oven,  and 
bake  them  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes;  they 
should  then  quit  the  plate  easily,  and  be  of 
a  clear  reddish  color;  remove  them  from 
the  plates  whilst  hot.  The  croquettes 
may  be  flavored  according  to  your  fancy. 

CURACAO.  This  is  a  species  of  bitter 
or  wild  orange,  of  which  the  rind  is  dried, 
and  may  be  had  at  the  druggists.  To  make 
the  liqueur  called  by  this  name,  wash  a 
pound  of  curacao  several  times  in  warm 
water;  then,  having  well  drained,  put  them 
into  a  vessel  with  four  quarts  of  brandy,  and 
one  of  water;  let  it  stand  closely  covered 
for  a  fortnight,  shaking  it  frequently;  distil 
it  after  that  in  the  usual  way,  and  drain  the 
curacao  on  a  sieve.  Sweeten  it  with  five 
pounds  and  a  half  of  sugar,  dissolved  in 
three  pints  of  water,  mix  it  with  the  spirit 
and  then  filter  it. 

CURDS  AND  WHEY.  Take  a  num- 
ber of  the  rough  coals  that  line  the  gizzards 
of  turkeys  and  fowls;  clean  (hem  from  the 
pebbles  "they  contain,  rub  them  well  with 
salt,  and  hang  them  to  dry.  This  makes  a 
more  tender  and  delicate  curd  than  common 
rennet.  When  to  l)e  used,  break  off  some 
bits  of  the  skin,  and  put  on  it  some  boiling 
water;  in  eight  or  nine  hours  use  the  liquor 
ae  you  do  other  rennet. 

CURRANT  CAKES.  Pick  and  wash 
the  currants,  either  white  or  red ;  to  two 
quarts  of  currants,  put  one  pint  of  water; 
when  boiled,  run  the  juice  through  a  jelly 
bag,  do  not  press  the  bag ;  to  one  quart  of 
juice  put  three  pounds  of  sugar;  boil  up  the 
juice,  and  strew  in  the  sugar ;  pour  it  into 
glasses,  dry  it  in  a  stove  till  it  will  turn  out, 
then  dry  the  cakes  on  plates. 

CURRANTS,  CONSERVE  OF. 
Take  tlie  seeds  from  two  pounds  of  red  cur- 
rants, and  put  them  on  the  fire  in  a  silver 


pan,  to  dry  them ;  then  press  them  through 
a  sieve,  and  put  thorn  again  on  the  fire,  stir- 
ring constantly  until  you  can  see  the  bottom 
of  the  pan;  then,  having  dissolved  and  boil- 
ed three  pounds  of  sugar  to  casse,  pour  it  on 
the  fruit,  stirring  continually ;  in  a  short 
time  take  it  off,  stirring  it  as  before  until  it 
bubbles ;  then  pour  it  into  moulds. 

CURRANT  ICES.  (1)  Boil  two  pounds 
of  red  currants  a  moment  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  raspberries ;  rub  them  through  a 
sieve,  adding  a  pint  of  water,  and  tlien  the 

sugar,   which  must   be  very  well  dissolved 
u  r       •  • 
before  icing. 

CURRANT  ICES.  (2)  Pick  some  cur- 
rants from  their  stalks,  and  squeeze  them 
through  a  sieve;  then  take  clarified  sugar, 
boil  it  to  a  very  high  degree,  add  it  to  your 
currant  juice,  and,  if  you  choose,  squeeze  in 
the  juice  of  four  lemons,  it  will  make  it 
more  mellow;  strain  them  through  the  sieve 
a  second  time,  put  them  in  the  icing  pot,  and 
finish  the  same  as  all  other  ices. 

CURRANT  ICE  CREAM.  Take  one 
large  spoonful  and  a  half  of  currant  jelly, 
put  it  into  a  basin,  with  half  a  gill  of  sirup, 
squeeze  in  one  lemon  and  a  half;  add  a  pint 
of  cream  and  a  little  cochineal,  then  pass  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  freeze  it  according  to 
custom. 

CURRANT  WATER  ICE.  Take  a 
large  spoonful  and  a  half  of  currant  jelly,  put 
it  into  a  basin,  and  add  to  it  the  juice  of 
two  lemons,  half  a  gill  of  sirup,  and  a  pint 
of  water:  then  freeze  it  rich. 

CURRANT  JELLY  FRAMBOISEE. 
Take  seven  pounds  of  fine  ripe  red  currants, 
three  of  white,  and  Iwo  of  white  raspber- 
ries, press  them  through  a  very  cluse  horse- 
hair sieve;  pour  the  juice  on  nine  pounds 
of  double-refined  sugar,  broken  in  small 
pieces,  place  the  whole  on  a  brisk  fire,  tak- 
ing care  to  remove  the  scum  as  soon  as  it 
appears.  When  the  boilings  follow  each 
other  very  quickly,  take  out  the  skimmer, 
(which  should  be  of  copper)  stir  it,  and  let 
the  jelly  tall  from  it ;  on  quitting  the  skim- 
mer it  ought  to  fall  like  treacle.  If  it  does 
so,  it  is  sufficiently  done.  This  jelly  should 
be  rose-colored;  by  making  it  entirely  of 
red  currants  and  red  rasplwrries,  the  color 
of  the  jelly  will  be  red. 

CURRANT  PASTE.  Pick  and  take 
the  seeds  from  ten  pounds  of  fine  red  cur- 
rants, crush  them,  and  having  pressed  out 
the  juice,  SUM  in  it  through  a  silk  sieve. 
Clarify  and  boil  to  casse  an  equal  quantity 
of  sugar,  |H)ur  the  currant  juice  oil  it,  set  the 


DRA 


279 


DRA 


•whole  over  a  gentle  fire,  stirring  constantly 
until  it  becomes  of  a  proper  consistence, 
which  may  lie  known  by  observing  when  the 
bottom  of  the  pan  cun  be  seen  clearly;  take 
it  off  from  the  fire  as  soon  as  that  is  the 
case,  and  pour  the  paste  into  tin  moulds, 
which  must  be  placed  on  slates,  or  copper 
plates:  smooth  the  tops  with  the  blade  of  a 
knife,  sprinkle  sifted  sugar  over,  and  pluce 
them  in  a  stove,  H  here  they  must  remain  till 
next  day ;  when  tl>e  paste  should  l>e  turned 
in  the  moulils;  sprinkle  sifted  sugar  over 
them  again,  and  set  them  in  the  stove  a 
second  night;  on  the  following  day  remove 
them  from  the  moulds,  lay  it  in  boxes,  \vilh 
white  paper  between  each  layer,  and  keep 
thru,  in  a  dry  place.  A  sixth  part  of  the 
quantity  of  raspberries  added  to  the  currants, 
would  greatly  improve  the  flavor  of  this 
paste. 

CURRANT  PASTILS.  Take  half  a 
pound  of  |x>unded  loaf  sugar  on  a  plate,  then 
a  quantity  of  currants,  which  squeeze  through 
a  MI-MS  when  that  is  done,  add  the  juice  to 
the  sugar,  till  it  makes  a  paste  as  clear  and 
thick  as  you  think  proper. 

CURRANT  SIIRrn.  To  five  pints  of 
Currant  juice,  either  red  or  white,  one  pound 
and  a  half  of  loaf  sugar;  when  dissolved, 
put  to  it  one  gallon  of  rum  or  brandy ;  clear 
it  through  a  flannel  bag. 

CURRANT  SIRUP.  Put  five  or  six 
pounds  of  red,  two  of  white  currants,  and 
two  Ixittles  of  raspberries,  into  a  sieve;  crush 
tlieni,  and  press  the  juice  through  it  into  a 
pan,  and  place  it  in  a  cellar  to  ferment;  in  a 
week's  time,  pass  the  juice  through  a  strain, 
ing  bag,  and  having  clarified,  and  boiled  to 
fort  souffle  four  pounds  of  sugar,  put  the 
juice  to  it,  and  boil  them  together  once; 
skim,  and  take  it  from  the  lire.  It  is  ne- 
cessary that  the  currant  juice  should  ferment, 
to  prevent  its  becoming  a  jelly  in  the  bottles. 


D. 

DRAGEES,  COMMON.  The  paste  for 
these  dragees  is  made  in  lire  same  manner 
as  for  the  better  sort,  but  the  materials  differ 
a  little:  thus  to  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the 
gum,  take  either  equal  quantities  of  sugar 
nnd  powder,  or  one-third  of  the  former  to 
two-thirds  of  the  latter.  VVIicn  these  and 
the  gum  art-  well  mixed,  roll  out  the  paste 
until  it  is  as  thin  as  the  back  of  a  knife- 
blade;  then  take  a  jiaMr-ciitter,  shaped  like 
a  sugar-loaf,  with  the  tup  taken  off,  with  ibe 
ml  of  which,  rut  as  many  piece*  of 
the  paste  us  will  about  two-thirds  till  the 


cutter ;  press  these  through  the  smaller  end 
into  paper  cases;  set  them  in  a  warm  place 
for  several  days.  These  kind  of  dragees 
may,  if  liked, "be  sugared  in  die  same  man- 
ner as  almonds. 

DRAGEES  EN  PASTILLAGE.  These 

dragees  are  made  of  the  same  materials  as 
the  superfine  dragees;  the  only  difference 
consists  in  their  forms,  which  resemble  the 
bonbons:  to  make  them,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  a  number  of  wooden  moulds,  (pear- 
tree  wood  is  the  best),  on  which  must  be 
stamped  small  squares,  with  various  device* 
engraved  on  them.  Cut  your  paste  into 
small  pieces;  press  each  piece  on  a  mould; 
take  off  alj  the  super-abundant  paste ;  then 
dip  your  finger  in  water,  and  with  it  remove 
the  paste  from  the  mould;  dry  them  in  case* 
like  die  other  drageet. 

DRAGEES,    SUPERFINE.      Put   a 

quarter  of  a  pound  of  die  best  gum-dragon 
into  a  pan,  with  a  pint  of  cold  water,  cover, 
and  let  it  stand  for  twenty-four  hours;  then 
take  a  strong  close  cloth,  about  two  feet 
long,  and  put  a  part  of  your  gum  into  it; 
fold  it  three  times, so  as  to  envelope  the  gum; 
then  wring  the  cloth,  by  which  means  the 
purest  gum  will  be  forced  through ;  scrape 
it  off  carefully  with  a  knife,  and  then  proceed 
in  die  same  way,  until  all  the  gum  be  train- 
ed ;  put  it  into  a  marble  mortar,  and  stir  it 
about  with  a  pestle  for  half  an  hour;  then 
add  to  it  a  pound  of  double-refined  sifted 
sugar;  mix  them  together  well,  until  it  be- 
comes a  stiff  paste;  divide  this  into  five 
parts,  four  of  which  must  be  tinged  as  fol- 
lows: red,  blue,  yellow,  and  green,  (the  fifth 
left  white),  with  the  usual  coloring  materials. 
Before,  however,  diey  are  colored,  add  to 
each  piece,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  double- 
refined  sugar,  sifted,  dipping  the  paste  in 
water  occasionally,  to  enable  it  to  receive 
the  additional  quantity  of  sugar.  When  you 
mix  in  the  coloring  materials,  add  also  a 
corresponding  perfume:  as,  to  die  red,  rose- 
water,  and  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  roses ; 
to  die  blue,  oil  of  violets ;  to  the  yellow,  es- 
sence of  cedar;  to  die  green,  essence  of 
bergamot ;  and  with  die  white,  mix  a  little 
orauge-tlower  water,  and  some  drops  of  es- 
sence of  Neroli. 

Your  paste  being  dius  prepared,  form  it 
of  whatever  little  ornaments  you  please,  such 
as  egg?,  balls,  turnips,  (adding  green  leaves 
to  the*-),  8tc.  of  die  white;  of  the  yellow, 
apricot.-!,  pears,  carrots,  &c. ;  plums,  &c. 
of  the  blue;  and  so  on;  rolling  them  in  your 
hands  to  smooth  diem,  and  make  them  all 
quite  small;  to  those  which  imitate  fruits, 
add  tails  and  tops,  cut  from  cherry-stalks, 
and  muck  on  whilst  the  paste  is  damp;  and 
with  u  hair-pencil,  dipped  in  powdered  cio- 


EGG 


280 


FIL 


nabar,  tinge  the  pears,  apples,  and  apricots, 
slightly  breathing  on  them  to  moisten  the 
mil-fare.  When  all  are  done,  put  them  into 
paper  cases,  and  set  them  in  a  warm  place 
for  several  days,  to  dry. 


E. 


•EGGS  CARAMEL.  Take  the  yolks 
of  a  dozen  hard  eggs,  bruise  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan, with  some  powder-sugar,  three  almond 
biscuits,  and  half  a  glass  of  cream;  make 
these  into  a  paste,  of  which  form  little  eggs, 
dip  them  in  caramel  sugar,  and  brown  them. 

EGGS  DUCHESSE.  Boil  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  cream  with  some  sugar,  orange- 
flower,  candied  lemon-peel,  marchpane,  and 
burn:  almonds,  all  chopped  small  or  bruised ; 
whip  up  the  whites  of  eight  eggs  well,  and 
then  take  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  them  at 
a  time,  and  poach  them  in  the  cream ;  drain, 
and  lay  them  on  a  dish,  so  as  to  resemble 
eggs  poached  without  the  yolks.  When  all 
the  whites  are  thus  used,  put  the  cream  on 
the  fire,  and  reduce  it,  and  as  the  dish  is 
gent  to  table,  add  the  yolks  to  the  cream, 
and  pour  die  sauce  gently  over  the  eggs. 

EGGS  FILAGRAMME.  Take  a  pint 
of  white  wine,  half  a  pound  of  fine  powder- 
sugar, 'and  make  it  into  a  clear  sirup  with 
the  white  of  an  egg;  beat  up  well  eight 
eggs,  and  pour  them  through  a  colander 
into  the  sirup;  a  very  short  time  is  sufficient 
to  cook  them.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

EGGS  OF  SNOW.  Break  ten  eggs, 
and  having  separated  the  yolks  and  whites, 
whip  the  latter  as  for  biscuits;  then  add 
two  spoonfuls  of  powder-sugar,  and  a  little 
dried  orange-flower  in  powder.  Pour  a 
quart  of  milk,  six  ounces  of  powder-sugar, 
and  a  little  orange-flower,  into  a  saucepan, 
and  when  it  boils  put  into  it,  a  dessert-s|x>on- 
ful  at  a  time,  of  the  white  of  egg ;  poach  ihe 
latter,  ami  then  set  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain. 
Then  beat  up  the  yolks,  and  mix  them  with 
half  the  milk,  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  stir  it 
with  a  wooden-spoon  till  it  begins  to  thick- 
en ;  then  take  it  off,  lay  the  poached  eggs  in 
a  dish,  and  cover  them  with  the  yolks  and 
milk. 

EGGS,  WHITE  OF.  To  make  a  dish 
of  these,  take  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs, 
beat  them  up  with  four  spoonfuls  of  rose-wa- 
ter, some  lemon-peel  grated,  and  a  little 
nutmeg;  sweeten  them  with  sugar,  mix 
them  well,  and  boil  them  in  four  bladders; 
tie  them  in  the  shape  of  an  egg,  and  boil 
them  hard;  they  will  take  half  an  hour; 


lay  them  in  a  dish ;  when  cold,  mix  half  a 
pint  of  thick  cream,  a  gill  of  mountain,  and 
the  juice  of  half  an  orange  all  together; 
sweeten  it  with  line  sugar,  and  serve  it  over 


F. 

FILBERT  BISCUITS.  Take  some 
Barcelona  filbert  nuts,  and  put  them  in  a  mor- 
tar to  break  their  shells ;  pick  all  the  shells 
from  them  clean,  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
very  fine,  and  mix  whites  of  eggs  with  them ; 
take  care  they  do  not  oil ;  mix  three  pounds 
of  powdered-sugar,  with  the  nuts  and  whites 
of  eggs,  to  a  proper  thickness ;  let  your  oven 
be  of  a  moderate  heat,  then  with  the  spaddlc 
and  knife,  drop  small  pieces,  about  half  as 
big  as  a  nutmeg;  put  two  or  three  sheets  of 
paper  under  them,  let  them  bake  of  a  fine 
brown,  and  all  alike;  and  let  them  be  cold 
before  you  take  them  off  the  paper. 

FILBERT     CANNELLONS.      Burn 

and  pound  six  ounces  of  filberts,  moist- 
ening them  with  white  of  egg;  when  well 
pounded,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fine  pounded  sugar,  and  half  the  white  of  an 
egg;  dry  this  paste  a  little,  and  then  press 
it  through  a  syringe,  cutting  the  cannelloni 
about  four  inches  in  length ;  make  the  fri- 
ture  quite  hot,  dip  the  cannellons  in  batter, 
and  fry  them.  Sprinkle  them  with  sugar, 
and  glaze  them  with  a  salamander.  Take 
particular  care  to  keep  the  cannellons  per- 
fectly straight. 

FILBERT   BURNT,   ICE    CREAM. 

Roast  some  Barcelona  nuts  well  in  the  oven, 
and  pound  them  a  little  with  some  cream; 
put  four  eggs  into  a  stewpan,  with  one  pint 
of  cream  and  two  gills  of  sirup;  boil  it  till  it 
Incomes  thick,  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and 
freeze  it;  then  mix  the  filberts  with  it  be- 
fore you  put  it  into  your  moulds. 

FILBERT  MACAROONS.  Take  a 
pound  of  filberts,  and  put  a  quarter  of  them 
into  a  preserving-pan  (immediately  after  you 
have  taken  them  from  the  shells,)  over  a 
moderate  fire;  stir  them  continually  with  a 
silver  spoon,  until  they  are  colored,  and  the 
ins  to  peel  off;  then  take  them  out; 


skin 

rub  off  the  skin  entirely,  and  when  quite 
cold,  pound  them  with  a  little  white  of  egg: 
proceed  in  the  same  manner  with  the  re- 
maining three-quarters;  and  when  all  are 
thus  pounded  separately,  put  the  whole  to- 
gether into  the  mortar,  with  a  pound  of 
sugar,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  beat 
them  for  ten  minutes;  after  which,  add  two 
pounds  more  of  sifted  sugar,  previously  beat' 


GOO 


281 


GRE 


en  up  with  six  whites  of  eggs ;  stir  all  these 
together  well  for  five  or  six  minutes,  when 
the  preparation  should  Insufficiently  firm,  tu 
prevent  its  spreadm,-  when  laid;  if,  how- 
ever, it  !»•  too  firm,  add  to  it  mure  white  of 
egg.  When  you  have  proceeded  so  far,  wet 
the  palms  of  your  hands,  and  roll  a  spoonful 
of  the  preparation  to  the  si/.c  and  form  of  a 
miluiei:;  when  all  rlone,  dip  your  hands  in 
water,  and  pass  them  gently  o\er  the  maca- 
roons, which  will  make  their  surface  smooth 
and  shining;  put  them  into  a  nearly  cold 
oven;  close  ii  ti^ht,  and  let  them  remain  in 
it  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  I.ay  the 
macaroons  at  least  an  inch  apart,  and  as 
round  as  possible. 

FLOWERS  I.\  ST'GAR.  Clarify  sn- 
gar  to  a  caramel  height,  whi<-h  may  be 
Known  liy  dipping  in  a  (in  k,  and  if  it  throws 
the  -uj  n  as  line  as  threads,  put  ill  (he  flow- 
ers. I  Live  re. iily  some  tea-cups,  with  the 
insides  rubbed  with  sweet  oil;  put  into  each 
cnp  four  tablc-s|x>otmils  of  the  sugar  and 
flower-,  and  when  cold  turn  them  out  of  tile 
cii|>s,  anil  sent'  them  to  table  piled  one  upon 
another. 

FIM1T  nisrriTS.  To  the  pulp  of 
V.I  fiuit.  put  an  e<)iial  qnautilv  of 
snu'ar  sifted,  Ix-at  it  two  hours;  then  put  it 
into  little  while  paper  firms;  dry  them  in  a 
roul  oven,  turn  them  the  next  day,  and  in 
two  or  tint*  days  Ixix  them. 

FRITC,  PUF.SF.KVED,    BISCUITS 

OF.  Take  dried  preserved  fruits,  such  as 
apricots,  verjuice,  gt:i|x-s,  plums,  oranges, 
and  a  little  onin;;e-llower  marmalade; 
pound  tliem  together,  and  sift  in  a  sieve; 
then  mix  it  w  ilh  yolks  of  ue\\  l.iid  • 
fine  powder-sugar,  until  it  roines  to  a  supple 
paste,  not  too  liquid ;  then  bike  them  on 
paper  in  a  moderate  oven. 


G. 

GINGER,  CANDIED.  Put  an  ounce 
of  ginger,  grated  fine,  and  a  pound  of  rifted 
migar  into  a  pre-sem-iu-pan  with  as  much 
water  as  will  dissolve  it.  Stir  them  well 
together  <>\er  a  slow  fire,  till  the  sugar  l>e- 
gi'is  to  boil;  then  add  another  pound,  stir- 
ring constantly  till  it  thickens.  Take  it 
from  ihe  liie,  drop  it  on  eailhen  i! 
them  in  a  warm  place  to  dry,  and  tl»ey  will 
be  hard  and  laittle  and  look  white. 

GOOSEP.ERRY  CAKES.     Break  the 

•Mfeberrien,  pic-s  out  the  juice,  and  strain 

it  through  a   muslin;    to  one  pint  of  juice   a 

pound  of  nig .11  ;  boil  up  Uie juice;  strew  in 

24* 


the  sugar:  stir  it  well;  simmer  it  well  till 
the  su_r;ir  is  unhid;  pour  it  into  glasses: 
dry  it  in  a  stove  till  it  w  ill  turn  out,  then 
dry  the  cakes  on  plates. 

GOOSEBERRIES,  GREEN,  COM- 
POTE OF.  Give  them  a  little  cut  on  one 
side  to  squeeze  out  the  seeds,  and  put  them 
in  hot  water  to  scald,  till  they  rise  to  the 
top;  then  put  cold  water  to  them,  adding  a 
little  salt,  to  bring  them  to  their  natural 
green;  simmer  them  in  clarified  sugar,  and 
lei  them  remain  in  sometime  to  imbibe  the 
sweet;  take  them  out,  and  put  th.  in  in  the 
eompotier  ;  reduce  the  simp  to  a  good  con- 
sistence, and  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  This 
is  for  green  gooselxrries ;  but  if  you  make 
use  of  preserved  ones,  warm  diem  in  their 
own  sirup  and  a  little,  water,  and  serve  it 
either  hot  or  cold.  These  will  not  keep 
long,  particularly  if  they  have  been  wanned 
again:  if  exposed  to  the  air  any  time,  they 
will  lose  their  color. 

GRAPE  ICE.  Take  ripe  grapes,  pick 
them  from  their  stalks,  pa.-s  them  through 
a  sieve;  mix  some  sugar  widi  the  juice  of 
four  lemons  squeezed  upon  it ;  pass  the 
whole  together  a  second  time  through  a 
sieve,  then  freeze  it. 

GRAPES  RATAFIA.  Take  some 
fine  muscadine  grapes,  pick  them  from  the 
stalks;  bruise  and  press  (hem,  so  as  to  ex- 
tract all  their  juice  ;  then  dissolve  some  su- 
gar in  the  grape  juice,  adding  to  it  Iwandy 
and  cinnamon;  let  the  whole  infuse  for  a 
fortnight  ;  then  strain  it  through  a  filtering 
b:n;,  and  Ixittle  it  off.  The  proper  propor- 
tions are  one  pint  of  brandy,  and  ten  ounces 
of  sugar  to  one  pint  of  grujie  juice. 

GREEN-GAGES  TO  CANDY.  When 
finished  in  the  sirup,  (see  preen-gaget  to 
pretfrve,)  put  a  layer  into  a  new  sieve, 
and  dip  it  slid  lenly  into  hot  water,  to  take 
off  the  sirup  that  hangs  about  it ;  then  put 
it  on  a  napkin  before  the  fire  to  drain,  and 
then  do  some  more  on  the  sieve.  Have 
ready  some  silled  double-refined  sugar,  gift 
this  all  over  every  part  of  the  fruit,  till  it  IB 
perfectly  while.  Set  it  on  the  shallow  end 
of  sieves  in  a  lightly  warm  oven,  and  turn 
it  two  or  three  times.  It  must  not  be  cold 
till  dry.  Watch  it  carefully. 

GREEN   GAGES   TO    PRESERVE. 

You  must  choose  the  largest,  when  they  b*- 
ginto  soften;  split  without  paring  them,  ami 
having  previously  weighed  an  equal  quant i- 
1  ir,  strew  a  part  of  it  over  them; 
blanch  the  kernels  with  a  small  sharp  knife  ; 
next  day,  [.our  the  sirup  from  the  fruit,  and 
boil  it  with  the  other  sugar,  very  gently,  for 


JUN 


282 


LEM 


six  or  eight  minutes;  skim,  and  add  the 
plums  and  kernels.  Simmer  till  clear, 
taking  off  any  scum  that  rises;  put  the  fruit 
single  into  small  pots,  and  pour  the  sirup 
and  kernels  upon  it. 

GUM  PASTE.  Put  a  pound  of  gum- 
dragon  in  a  basin,  with  warm  water  enough 
to  cover  one  inch  above  the  gum ;  set  this  in 
a  warm  closet  for  four  and  twenty  hours ; 
have  a  new  tammy  ready  laid  over  a  dish; 
spread  it  on  it,  and  squeeze  through  as 
much  as  you  can  at  first ;  then  open  the 
tammy,  spread  the  gum  out  again,  and  then 
squeeze  it;  repeat  this  till  the  whole  is 
through ;  then  lay  it  on  the  slab,  work  it 
well  with  your  hand,  put  in  nearly  all  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  and  a  pound  of  the  best 
double  refined  powder-sugar,  by  degrees,  as 
you  work  it;  but  before  you  have  put  in  the 
whole  of  the  sugar,  begin  lo  add  some  of 
the  best  starch  powder;  blend  them  thor- 
oughly together,  till  the  paste  l«gins  to 
take  an  impression ;  then  roll  it  in  a  cloth, 
and  let  it  stand  in  a  damp  place  for  a  week 
or  ten  days,  (it  is  the  better  for  keeping), 
work  it  will]  powder,  and  it  will  cut  and 
mould  to  any  shape  you  please,  and  when 
you  want  it  to  harden,  set  it  in  a  dry  place; 
if  you  wish  to  color  it,  to  make  it  red,  use 
cochineal  or  carmine ;  fur  blue  or  violet 
color,  use  indigo;  for  yellow,  saffron;  for 
green,  the  juice  of  beet  leaves,  scalded  over 
the  fire,  the  thick  part  mix  with  the  paste. 
When  you  put  in  colors,  \x  careful  to  blend 
them  well,  and  be  particular  that  the  color 
is  good. 


H. 

HARTSHORN  CREAM.  Boil  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  hartshorn-shavings  in  three 
pints  of  water;  when  reduced  to  half  a  pint, 
strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag;  put  it  to  a 
pint  of  cream  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
powder-sugar,  and  give  them  one  boil  to- 
gether ;  then  put  it  into  cii|>s  or  glasses,  and 
let  them  stand  till  cold,  when  turn  them  out 
on  a  dish;  stick  some  sliced  blanched  al- 
monds on  the  top  of  each.  White  wine 
and  sugar  is.  usually  eaten  with  them. 


J. 


JUNIPER  BERRIES,  ICES  OF.  In- 
fuse some  juniper  berries  in  warm  water, 
or  take  about  a  handful  of  the  berries,  and 
boil  them  a  moment  with  a  pint  of  water, 
half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  a  bit  of  cinna- 
mon, and  sifc  them  through  a  sieve  with  ex- 
pression, and  finish  the  same  as  all  others. 


JUNIPER  RATAFIA.  Take  three 
ounces  of  juniper  berries,  anise,  corian- 
der, cinnamon,  and  cloves,  of  each  eight- 
een grains;  bruise  all  these  ingredients,  and 
infuse  them,  for  a  month,  in  three  pints  of 
brandy ;  then  strain  it,  add  three-QuarUm> 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  dissolved  in  half  a  pint 
of  water,  stir  them  together,  pass  the  whole 
through  a  jelly-bag,  and  bottle  it ;  keep  it 
well  corked. 


L. 


LEMON  BRANDY.  Put  the  peel  of 
two  lemons  into  a  bottle  of  brandy,  let  it 
stand  for  four  and  twenty  hours,  then  strain 
it;  Iwil  two  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  in  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pint  of  water;  then  skim,  and  let  it 
stand  till  cold;  when  cold,  mix  it  with  the 
brandy. 

LEMON  CAKES.  Quarter  as  many 
lemons  as  you  think  proper,  they  must  have 
good  rinds,  and  boil  them  in  two  or  three 
waters,  till  they  are  tender,  and  have  lost 
their  bitterness;  then  skin  them,  and  put 
them  in  a  napkin  to  fry;  with  a  knife  take 
all  the  skins  and  seeds  out  of  the  pulp,  shred 
the  peels  fine,  put  them  to  the  pulp,  uci^h 
them,  and  put  rather  more  than  their  weight 
of  fine  sugar  into  a  tossing-pan,  with  just 
sufficient  water  to  dissolve  the  sugar;  boil 
it  till  it  becomes  perfectly  dissolved,  and 
then  by  degrees  put  in  the  peel  and  pulps; 
stir  them  well  before  you  set  them  on  the 
fire,  boil  it  very  gently  till  it  looks  clear  and 
thick,  and  then  put  it  into  flat-bottomed 
glasses;  set  them  in  a  stove,  and  keep  them 
in  a  continual  and  moderate  heat,  and  turn 
them  out  upon  glasses,  as  soon  as  they  arc 
candied. 

LEMON  COMPOTE.  Cut  them  in 
small  pieces,  and  boil  them  in  water  till 
they  are  tender,  tl>en  change  them  into  cold 
water;  then  make  a  sirup  with  a  glass  of 
water,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
and  put  in  the  fruit ;  let  it  simmer  gently 
over  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour,  and  serve 
cold. 

LEMON  CONSERVE.  Grate  the  rind 
of  a  lemon  on  a  piece  of  sugar  (about  a 
pound,)  scrape  off  the  surface  of  the  sugar 
as  the  lemon  adheres  to  it,  until  you  have 
rasped  the  whole  of  die  rind ;  squeeze  half 
the  juice  on  the  scraped  sugar,  and  then 
boil  the  rest  to  la  grande  plume;  take  it 
from  the  fire  when  at  this  degree,  and  let  it 
stand  a  little;  stir  in  the  lemon  gently,  and 
when  it  forms  a  sort  of  glace  on  the  top  of 
the  sugar,  pour  the  conserve  into  moulds ; 


LEM 


283 


LEM 


being  careful,  however,  that  it  is  not  too 
hot. 

LEMON'   DROPS.     Grate  three   large 

lemons.  uiih  a  large  piece  of  double  refined 
ttii<;;ir;  thru  scrape  tlie  itigiir  into  a  plate, 
add  halt  a  tBMpowrfU  of  flour;  mix  well 
together,  and  U-at  it  into  a  light  paste,  with 
tlie  while  nt'  an  egg.  Drop  it  upon  white 
Draper,  put  them  on  a  tin-plate,  and  set  them 
in  a  model  ale  oven. 

LEMON  ICE  CREAM.  Take  the  juice 
of  three  or  t'mr  lemons,  and  grate  ll»e  peel 
•  t'  niie  I,  iiimi  ;  adil  two  gills  of  .-imp.  ami 

r  •        ii  i 

one  pint  o|  cream  ;  mix  it  all  togetlier,  pa.<s 
it  thi'iiujli  a  sieve,  and  freeze  it. 


I.r.MONS  TO  KEEP  FOR  PUD- 
DINGS. When  you  squeeze  the  fruit, 
throw  the  outside  in  water,  without  the 
pulp  ;  let  tin-in  remain  in  the  sum-  a  I'.nt- 
nignt,  adding  no  more;  Ixiil  them  in  the 
same  til!  ii  -nder  ;  strain  it  from  them,  and 
when  the\  ai-e  nearly  dry,  throw  them  into 
nny  jar  of  candv  you  may  have  remaining 
from  iilii  sweetmeats;  or,  if  you  haxe  none, 
boil  a  small  ijiianlily  of  sirup,  of  common 
1"  il".-i:_;:ir  and  uater,  and  (xuir  over  them  ; 
in  a  week  or  ten  days,  lioil  them  gently  in 
it  till  they  look  clear;  and  that  they  may 
lx-  c.ixeie.!  xxilh  it  ill  the  jar,  you  may  cut 
each  half  <>f  llii'  fiuil  in  two,  and  they  will 
occupy  a  .-mailer  s|>acc. 


..N  1'ASTII.S.  Take  half  a  pound 
of  |xiiinrVd  loaf  Mi^ar,  sifted  as  fine  as  pos- 
sible; put  it  in  a  plate,  take  three  or  fmir 
lemons,  anil  squec/.e  tlieir  juice  over  tlie  su- 
gar; mix  it  well  with  a  -pnun,  till  you  make 
It  rather  a  ihickish  pa.-le,  -u  tlr.it  MUI  can 
take  it  np'iii  a  knife;  then  lake  half  a  sheet 
nf  |>a|ier.  and  coxer  it  with  lilile  round  and 
flat  drops,  alxint  the  si/e  of  a  sixpence,  place 
them  in  a  -t,.\e  u  illl  a  slow  tire  till  they  are 
quite  dry,  then  take  llk-m  oil'  from  tlie  paper; 
you  may  u.-e,  ifyini  please,  some  of  tile  peel 
grated,  lint  nut  chipped;  fi>r,  as  it  is  a  melt- 
ing pa.-iil,  some  of  the  hits  would  remain  in 
tlie  mouth. 

LKMOV     I'EEI.    CANDIED.      Take 

pome  thick-rinded  lemons,  pare  olT  ihe  yel- 
low |«-el,  and  throw  it  into  boiling  XVJHT  till 
soil,  when  It  must  lie  put  intu  cold  xx.iter. 
Clarify  some  line  sii^ar,  and  hnil  it  au  petit 
lisse,  anil  haxin^  drained  (lie  lem.in-|>eel, 
|vuir  mi  i!  the  sirup  (whilst  hot);  the  next 
day  Ixiil  the  sirup  a^aiu,  and  return  it  to  the 
peel;  (he  lliinl  and  linn  llidaxs  proceed  in 
tlie  same  manner,  adding  a  small  quantity  of 
clarified  sn^'ar;  the  last  time  tlie  sirup  ig 
boikil,  M-  M«  in  as  it  ri.-es  to  perle,  put  in 
the  peel,  coxer  and  boil  the  whole  together 


once,  and  when  cold,  drain  and  dry  them  in 


LEMON  PEEL,  TO  CANDY.  Take 
some  lemon-peels,  and  clean  them  well  from 
i  lie  pulp,  and  let  them  lay  txvo  days  in  salt 
and  xvater;  then  scald  and  drain  them  dry, 
then  boil  them  in  a  thin  sirup  till  they  look 
<|itile  clear.  After  which,  take  them  out, 
and  have  ready  a  thick  sirup  made  xxith  fine 
loaf  sugar ;  put  them  into  it,  and  simmer 
them  till  the  sugar-candies  about  the  pan  and 
peels.  Then  lay  them  separately  on  a  hair 
sieve  to  drain,  strew  sifted  sugar  over  tliem, 
and  eet  tliem  to  dry  in  a  slow  oven. 

LEMOiV  PEEL,  CARAMEL.      Take 

some  very  dry  preserved  lemon-|>oel,  and 
cut  it  into  several  small  square  pieces ;  piH 
tltese  pieces  each  on  the  point  of  little  slick* 
for  this  purpose,  and  dip  them  into  caramel 
sugar  as  directed.  See  chestnuts  au  car- 
amel. 

LEMON    PEEL  SIRUP    OF.    Take 

five  ounces  of  fresh  lemon-peel,  put  it  into  a 
ylass  cuciirhite,  which  has  been  gradually 
heated ;  pour  on  them  txvo  pounds  of  nearly 
Ixiilini;  xvater;  close  the  vessel  very  tight, 
and  place  it  on  hot  ashes  for  txvelvc  hours; 
after  which,  let  the  infusion  run  out  gently 
without  pressing  the  peel ;  add  two  pounds 
of  poxvder-sugar,  and  then  boil  the  whole  to 
grand  perle,  when  about  half  cold,  put  in 
a  few  drops  of  spirit  of  lemon. 

LEMON  SWEETMEATS.  Take  a 
pound  of  marchpane  paste,  and  mix  it  with 
as  many  yolks  of  eggs  as  will  enable  you  to 
spread  the  paste  with  a  knife;  add  to  it  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  grated  lemon-peel  to 
impart  the  flavor  required.  The  whole 
being  well  mixed,  cut  some  sheets  of  wafer 
(taper  into  such  figures  as  your  fancy  may 
dictate,  and  spread  tile  paste  over  tliem, 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness; 
place  them  on  paper,  and  bake  tliem  in  a 
HUH  lei  ate  ox-en.  If  you  xx  ish  to  «laze  your 
sweetmeats,  Ixiil  some  SUgiir  xvilll  oranije- 
tlmver  water  to  la  plume,  and  when  they 
are  taken  out  of  the  oven,  wash  them  ox'er 
with  the  .-irup,  which  dries  almost  immedi- 
ately. 

LEMONS,   SIRUP   OF.     Squeeze  aa 

many  lemons  as  will  yield  alxiul  three-quar- 
ters of  a  |xinml  of  juice,  taking  particular 
care  that  tlie  peel  of  every  lemon  is  perfectly 
found,  and  that  they  are  none  of  them  in  the 
least  degree  bitter.  Set  your  juice  in  tlie 
cellar  tin  four  days,  and  then  lilicr  it  through 
blutiiii^-paper.  Break  u  pound  and  u  half 
of  double-refined  -n^.ir  inin  pieces  alwiut  an 
inch  square  ;  put  them  into  a  gallon  matraas, 


MAC 


284 


MAR 


pour  the  lemon-juice  over  it,  dose  the  mat- 
rass with  paper,  and  place  it  in  a  liain  ma- 
rie until  the  sugar  is  entirely  dissolved  ;  then 
extinguish  your  fire,  and  let  the  matrass  cool 
gradually ;  when  cold,  add  two  spoonfuls  of 
spirit  of  lemons,  then  bottle  it,  keep  it  well 
corked. 

LEMON  WAFERS.  Squeeze  the  juice 
of  six  lemons  into  a  basin ;  pound  and  sift 
some  double-refined  sugar,  and  mix  it  with  | 
the  lemon-juice  ;  put  the  white  of  one  egg 
with  it,  and  mix  the  whole  well  together 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  to  make  it  of  a  good 
consistence  ;  lake  some  sheets  of  wafer-pa- 
per, and  put  one  sheet  of  it  on  a  pewter 
sheet  or  tin  plate;  put  on  it  a  spoonful  of  | 
the  preparation,  and  spread  it  all  over  the 
paper  with  a  knife  ;  cut  it  into  twelve  pieces,  I 
and  put  them  across  a  stick  in  a  hot  stove, 
with  that  side  the  paste  is  on  uppermost, 
and  you  will  find  they  will  curl ;  when  they 
are  half  curled,  take  them  oft"  very  care-fully 
and  put  them  up,  endways,  in  a  sieve,  that 
they  may  stand  up  ;  let  them  l>e  in  the  hot 
stove  one  day,  and  you  will  find  they  will  be 
all  curled,  and  then  they  are  done. 

I 

LIQUORICE    PASTE.      Scrape  and  j 
bruise  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  liquorice-root,  ! 
and  boil  it  in  a  little  water  till  it  is  much 
reduced  ;   let  it  stand  to  settle,  and  pour  it  I 
clear  off,  and  dissolve  in   it    half  an    ounce 
of  gum-dragon  :    when  thoroughly  dissolved, 
sift  it  in  a  linen  bag,  and  mix  sugar  with  it 
till  it  is  brought  to  the  consistence  of  :i  paste ; 
then  cut  it  into  what  flowers  or  designs  you 
think  proper. 


M. 

MACAROONS,  SPICED.  Take  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  and  two  pounds  of 
sifted  sugar;  make  your  paste  as  usual,  to 
which  add  a  spoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon, 
six  or  eight  cloves,  also  pounded,  some  pre- 
served lemon  and  orange-peel  (of  each  a 
spoonful,)  chopped  small,  and  the  grated 
rind  of  two  lemons;  mix  them  all  together 
in  the  mortar,  and  then  lay  your  macaroons 
as  usual,  and  bake  them  with  equal  care. 

MACEDOINE     OF    FRUIT.       The 

macedoine  is  an  ornamental  dish,  composed 
of  transparent  jelly,  with  various  fruits  en- 
closed in  it;  for  this  purpose  it  should  l>e 
done  as  follows:  Have  a  dome-shaped  mould 
six  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  four 
in  height,  the  sides  fluted ;  the  smaller  mould 
must  be  of  a  similar  firm,  but  only  four  inrh- 
cs  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  two  auJ  three- 
quarters  high ;  to  this  latter  have  four  bun- 
dles, bent  at  the  end,  to  hang  it  exactly  in 


the  centre  of  the  larger  mould.  Prepare  a 
strawlierry  transparent  jelly,  place  the  larger 
mould  as  straight  as  possible  in  pounded  ice, 
hang  the  small  one  in  it,  and  pour  the  jelly 
into  the  former;  whilst  it  is  congealing, 
pick  alxmt  twenty  fine  white  strawberries, 
the  same  numter  of  very  red  ones,  the  same 
of  white  raspberries,  a  dozen  bunches  of  red, 
and  the  same  of  white  currants;  wash  all 
these  well,  but  touch  them  as  little  as  possi- 
ble, that  they  may  not  lose  their  freshness; 
when  the  jelly  is  perfectly  set,  pour  some 
hot  water  into  the  small  mould  which  will 
enable  you  to  remove  it  with  ease;  raise  it 
with  great  care,  so  that  the  space  may  be 
found  without  the  slightest  flaw;  then  place 
on  the  jelly  (in  thj  centre  of  this  spare)  two 
hunches  of  white  currants,  surround  these 
with  a  ring  of  white  straw-terries,  and  the 
latter  with  a  crown  or  ring  of  white  rasp- 
terries;  pour  over  very  cart-fully  two  or 
three  spoonfuls  of  the  jelly,  and  when  that  is 
eonin-aled,  proceed  in  the  same  way  with 
the  red  currants,  straw  terries,  and  raspber- 
ries, then  the  jelly,  and  so  on  alternately, 
until  all  the  fruit  is  used  ;  fill  the.  mould  w  ith 
jelly;  as  soon  as  ihe  whole  is  congealed, dip 
your  mould  into  a  large  saucepan  of  hot 
water,  and  then  turn  it  into  a  dish  instantly. 
The  macedoine  may  be  garnished  in  this 
manner  \\itli  any  kind  of  fruit  you  think 
proper.  It  may  also  be  filled  with  two  jel- 
lies as  follows:  white  lemon  jelly  in  the 
large  mould,  and  finished  with  the  same 
jelly,  tinned  with  eitlier  rose-color  or  yellow ; 
indeed  the  moulds  may  be  varied  in  any  way 
your  fancy  may  dictate. 

MALLOWS,  SIRUP  OF.  Take  half 
a  pound  of  mallows  root,  and  having  scrap- 
ed and  washed  it  wc-ll,  cut  it  into  small 
pieces,  which  set  on  the  fire  with  three  pints 
of  water;  when  sufficiently  boiled,  the  wa- 
ter will  te  glutinous,  strain  oft'  the  decoction, 
and  pour  into  it  four  pounds  of  sugar ;  clari- 
fy it  in  the  same  manner  as  capillaire;  boil 
it  to  lisse,  run  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  and 
when  cold,  bottle  it. 

MARASCHINO.  Take  sixteen  poun  Is 
of  fine  sharp  cherries,  stone  and  take  off 
the  stalks;  put  them  into  five  quarts  of 
brandy  to  infuse,  covered  close  for  three 
days,  then  distil  the  infusion;  distil  also  a 
pound  of  cherry-leaves  in  six  quarts  of  filter- 
ed river  water,  from  which  you  will  obtain 
about  a  gallon;  dissolve  in  this  four  pounds 
and  a  half  of  fine  sugar;  add  it  to  the  li- 
queur, with  two  pints  and  a  half  of  kirschen- 
wasser,  an  ounce  and  four  drachms  of  spirits 
of  rose,  the  same  of  orange-flowers,  and 
three  drachms  of  spirits  of  jessamine;  mix 
them  altogether,  run  it  through  a  jelly-bag, 
and  bottle  it;  cork  them  well. 


MAR 


285 


MEL 


MARASCHINO,    CONSERVE    OF. 

Pound  and  sift  some  of  the  best  lump  sugar, 
mix  it  in  a  china  l>;isin  with  spirit  of  maras- 
chino, until  it  is  of  the  consistence  of  pastil 
parte;  then  put  it  into  a  skillet  over  the  fire, 
and  heat  il  gently,  stirring  it  constantly  (but 
without  letting  it  Ixiil,)  till  very  liquid,  when 
it  may  lx-  |X)iired  into  funnel-shaped  tin 
moulds ;  put  tltese  moulds  on  iron  plates, 
and  dry  the  conserve  in  a  stove. 

MARASCHINO  ICE  CREAM.    Take 

two  t|iiarl.-  nf  cream,  twelve  eggs,  a  pound 
of  double-refined  sugar,  and  three  glasses 
of  true  maraschino  ;  put  the  cream  on  to 
boil,  and  in  the  meantime  whisk  the  whites 
of  tl>e  eggs  to  a  firm  snow,  then  pour  in 
eight  yolks,  and  the  sugar  pounded  and 
sifted,  stir  them  together  lightlv,  and  then 
add  by  degress  the  boiling  cream,  whipping 
continually  ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  do  not 
cease  whipping  until  it  has  boiled  up  three 
or  four  times;  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into 
a  basin,  .-.lining  a  little  to  enable  it  to  run 
more  freely;  when  cold  put  it  into  the  sor- 
betiere  with  the  maraschino;  cover  it  in- 
stantly, ami  ice  it  ad  usual. 

MARCHPANE.  Take  four  pounds  of 
sweet  alnn'ii'!?-,  throw  them  into  boiling 
water,  let  them  lay  till  the  skin  loosens, 
then  put  them  into  cold  water,  after  a  few 
minutes  Uanch  anil  throw  them  again  into 
cold  water  to  wash  them  thoroughly.  When 
dry,  pound  them  (a  handful  at  a  time)  to  a 
very  tine  paste,  moistening  each  handful 
with  two  spoonfuls  of  water;  the  whole 
quantity  of  almonds  being  pounded,  put  the 
paste  into  a  large  preserving  pan,  with  (our 
pounds  of  the  l>est  lump  sugar  finely  |xiuud- 
ed  and  silled  ;  set  the  pan  on  a  coal  fire, 
stir  and  work  them  up  together  with  a 
••idcn  spatula,  rather  sharp  at  the 
bottom:  Ix-  very  can-fill  that  none  of  the 
paste  adheres  to  the  pan ;  the  consequence 
of  such  neglect  would  Ix-,  that  the  march- 
pane woiiM  lie  spotted  with  yellow,  and 
would  smell  unpleasantly.  Whilst  winking 
it  up,  ihc  |;:i-tc,  which  when  put  in  was 
tolerably  (inn,  will  become  rather  liquid, 
and  a  great  deal  of  vajior  may  be  olwerved  ; 
the  tii>i  is  caused  by  the  sugar  dissolved  by 
the  heat  and  inoi-ttire,  the  second  by  tlie 
eva|x>ration  of  the  water.  Continue  to  stir 
mid  work  it  up  in  this  manner  without 
ceasing  for  two  hours,  and  if  at  the  end  of 
that  time,  \ou  can  toueh  the  paste  without 
it*  adhering  to  your  tiogi-rs,  it  is  .-ufhcicntlv 
dried;  in  which  case  lemovc  it  all  to  one 
aide  of  the  pan,  clean  the  Ixittom  and  side 
of  the  other,  sprinkle  it  well  wilh  flour,  then 
put  the  pa.-ti-  to  that  pait,  clean  and  .-prin- 
kle  that  .-!.<••  also;  then  lake  the  pan  by 
both  cars  and  move  it  round  and  round,  so 


that  the  paste  may  all  unite  together;  as 
soon  as  it  has  done  so,  put  it  into  a  sheet  of 
paper,  or,  if  you  want  to  use  it  immediate- 
ly, on  a  well  (loured  table.  This  paste,  if 
the  almonds  he  well  pounded  and  then  thor- 
oughly dried,  will  keep  good  for  six  months; 
if  these  two  precautions  are.  not  properly 
attended  to,  it  will  become  sour  in  ten  days. 

MARIGOLDS,  CONSERVE  OF.  Take 
(bur  ounces  of  marigold-flowers,  conserve  of 
hyacinth  and  hermes,  of  each  four  drachms, 
the  powder  of  pearl  two  ounces,  and  as 
much  sirup  of  citron  as  will  make  them  into 
a  conserve,  mixing  and  bruising  them  to- 
gether with  refined  sugar. 

MARJORAM     CONSERVE.       Take 

the  tops  and  tenderest  part  of  sweet  marjo- 
ram, bruise  it  well  in  a  wooden  mortar  or 
bowl;  take  double  its  weight  of  fine  sugar, 
boil  it  with  marjoram-water  till  it  is  as 
thick  as  sirup,  then  put  in  your  beaten  mar- 
joram. 

MARSEILLES,  OR  GINGER.    Take 

a  pound  and  a  half  of  double-refined  sugar, 
and  boil  it  to  fort  souffle,  add  to  it  an 
ounce  of  ginger  in  powder,  remove  the  pan 
from  the  fire,  and  with  a  round  stick  (like 
a  plain  round  rule)  stir  the  sugar,  inclining 
the  stick  towards  the  sides  of  the  pan,  then 
with  a  spoon  take  the  sugar  that  sticks  to 
the  edges  and  put  it  amongst  the  liquid,  then 
work  it  up  again  with  the  stick,  remove  the 
solid  sugar  as  l*fore,  and  repeat  this  opera- 
tion tour  times,,  when  it  will  have  become  tole- 
rably thick  and  firm  ;  pour  it  into  paper  cases, 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  with  a  fork 
trace  on  its  surface,  whilst  warm,  lozenges 
of  what  size  you  please;  afterwards,  with 
the  point  of  a  knife,  mark  some  of  these 
deeper  than  the  others;  when  quite  cold, 
take  them  out  of  the  papers,  and  separate 
them,  where  the  lines  are  deepest.  The 
Marseilles,  if  preserved  in  a  warm  or  dry 
place,  will  keep  good  for  a  long  time. 

MARSEILLES  SPICED.  Take  a 
|xuind  and  a  half  of  fine  sugar,  boil  it  to 
caste;  take  a  quarter  of  preserved  orange- 
peel,  the  same  of  candied  lcmon-|icel,  (or, 
if  you  like  it  better,  two  ounces  of  blanched 
pistachio  nuts),  cut  them  into  dice,  and  put 
them  with  half  an  ounce  of  cloves,  the  same 
of  cinnamon  (Ixilh  pounded)  into  the  sugar, 
stir  them  in  gently,  continue  to  boil  your 
sirup  to  forte  plume;  then  lx?at  it  up,  pour 
it  into  i  a.-e.-,  and  finish  as  the  Marseilles. 

MI'.l.o.NS,  TO  PRESERVE  LIKE 
<  •  I  V  1 1  .U.  Half  a  |xniinl  of  ginger  to  one 
pound  of  melon;  scrape  the  ginger,  and 
save  the  scraping*;  pour  a  quart  of  boiling 


MIN 


286 


MYR 


water  on  the  ginger,  let  it  stand  two  days: 
scald  the  melon  (with  the  scrapings  of  the 
ginger  in  the  water),  t:iking  care  not  to 
make  it  too  soft:  cut  it  into  small  pieces 
resembling  ginger;  then  prepare  a  simp, 
half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pint  of  water; 
boil  the  ginger  in  it;  when  cold,  put  in  the 
melon,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  for  a  short 
time,  but  not  to  boil;  let  the  sirup,  with 
the  ginger,  be  boiled  every  day  for  a  fort- 
night, but  not  poured  upon  the  melon  till 
nearly  cold;  then  boil  a  rich  sirup  to  keep 
it  in. 

N.  B.  Carrot  is  equally  good  with  melon. 

MERINGUES.  (1)  Whisk  the  whites  of 
nine  eggs  to  a  solid  froth;  then  add  the  rind 
of  six  lemons,  grated  extremely  fine,  and  a 
spoonful  of  silted  sugar;  after  which,  lay  a 
sheet  of  wet  paper  on  a  tin,  and  with  a 
spoon  drop  the  mixture  in  little  lumps, 
separately  upon  it,  sift  sugar  over,  and  put 
them  to  "take  in  a  moderately  heated  oven, 
taking  care  that  they  are  done  of  a  nice 
color.  Then  put  raspl>erry,  apricot,  or  any 
other  kind  of  jam  lietween  two  of  these  bot- 
toms, add  them  together,  and  lay  them  in 
a  warm  place,  or  before  the  fire  to  dry. 

MERINGUES.  (2)  Take  the  whites 
of  twelve  eggs,  six  ounces  of  the  best  lump 
sugar,  pounded  and  sifled,  and  half  a  pound 
of  pistachios;  blanch  and  beat  the  latter  in 
a  mortar,  with  a  little  while  of  egg,  to  a 
very  fine  paste.  Whl.sk  the  whites  of  eggs 
to  a  snow,  then  add  the  sugar,  and  pista- 
chio paste,  mix  them  well,  but  very  lightly, 
and  when  they  are  thoroughly  incorporated, 
put  some  sheets  of  paper  ifn  tin  plates,  lay 
your  preparation  on  the  pa|>er,  with  a  spoon, 
lay  the  meringues,  at  least  an  inch  apart; 
sprinkle  sifted  sugar  over  them,  and  put 
them  into  a  moderate  oven  or  stove  ;  when 
done,  detach  them  gently  from  the  paper 
with  a  knife,  and  place  them  on  a  sieve  in 
a  dry  place.  Just  before  they  are  sent  to 
table,  fill  each  with  a  little  whipped  cream, 
to  which  add  a  small  quantity  of  either 
orange-flower,  rose,  or  vanilla  water. 

MILK  PUNCH.  Pare  six  oranges,  and 
six  lemons,  as  thin  as  you  possibly  can, 
grate  them  after  with  sugar  to  obtain  the 
flavor.  Steep  the  peels  in  a  bottle  of  rum 
or  brandy,  stopped  close  for  four  and  twenty 
hours.  Squeeze  the  fruit  on  two  pounds  of 
migar,  add  four  quarts  of  water  to  it,  and 
one  quart  of  new  milk,  boiling  hot;  stir  the 
rum  into  the  above,  and  run  it  through  a 
jelly-bag  until  it  is  quite  clear:  bottle  and 
cork  it  close  immediately. 

MINT,  DISTILLED  LIQUEUR  OF. 
Take  two  handfuls  of  fresh  gathered  garden 


f  mint,  and  infuse  it  for  some  days  in  a  gallon 
and  a  half  of  brandy,  and  a  quart  of  water ; 
then  distil  it  as  usual.  Dissolve  three 
pounds  and  a  half  of  sugar  in  seven  pints  of 
water,  mix  the  sirup  with  the  liqueur,  and 
run  the  whole  through  a  jelly  bag. 

MINT  WATER.  Take  four  pounds  of 
dried  mint,  two  gallons  and  a  half  of  proof 
spirits,  and  three  gallons  of  water;  distil 
them,  and  sweeten  the  water  with  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  sugar. 

MIRLITONS.  Put  into  a  pan  two 
yolks,  and  two  whole  eggs,  four  ounces  of 
powder-sugar,  three  ounces  of  sweet  maca- 
roons crushed,  half  an  ounce  of  crisped 
orange-flowers  in  powder,  and  a  grain  of 
salt;  stir  these  together  a  minute,  then  add 
two  ounces  of  melted  butter;  whip  the  two 
whites  very  firm,  and  put  them  also  to  the 
preparation.  Line  thirty  tartlet  moulds  with 
puff-paste,  into  each  of  which  pour  an  equal 
quantity  of  the  above;  cover  them  with 
sifted  sugar,  and  when  that  is  di.->i>lved, 
strew  over  a  little  sugar,  a  la  grele;  and 
put  them  into  a  moderate  oven  :  serve  eithet 
hot  or  cold. 

MULBERRIES,  SIRUP  OF.      Take 

as  many  mulberries  as  will  yielil  three  pints 
of  juice,  which  put  into  a  preserving  pan 
with  three  pints  of  water;  boil  until  this 
quantity  is  reduced  to  one  pint;  then  lay  the 
fruit  on  a  sieve  to  drain.  Clarify  throe 
pounds  of  sugar,  boil  it  to  bouille;  then  add 
the  mulberry  -juice;  give  them  one  boil,  and 
skim  them.  Pour  the  sirup  into  a  pan,  and 
let  it  stand ;  when  col.l,  bottle  it. 

MUSK,  TO  PREPARE  FOR  LI- 
QUEURS. Take  two  grains  of  musk  and 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  pound  them 
in  a  mortar  and  mix  them  well;  keep  it  in 
a  closely  stopped  bottle.  The  quantity  re- 
quired of  this  is  one  pinch  to  four  or  five 
quarts  of  liqueur.  Amliergris  is  prepared 
in  a  similar  manner,  but  being  less  powerful 
than  the  musk,  four  grains  is  the  proportion 
to  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar. 

MYRTLE,  OIL  OF.  Put  two  ounces 
of  peach  leaves,  and  the  half  of  a  nutmeg, 
bruised,  into  six  quarts  of  brandy;  distil 
from  this  in  a  bain  marie  alembic  your  li- 
queur, in  which,  infuse  half  a  pound  of  myr- 
tle flowers  for  four  days.  Dissolve  five 
pounds  of  sugar  in  three  quarts  of  pure  river 
water;  the  moment  it  begins  to  boil,  take  it 
from  the  fire,  and  let  it  cool;  take  the  myr- 
tle flowers  from  the  liqueur,  and  put  in  the 
sugar ;  mix  them  well,  color  it  with  tincture 
of  saffron,  strain  and  bottle  it. 


NUT 


237 


ORA 


N. 

NONPAREIL.  Poppy  seeds  sugared  in 
the  manner  directed  under  the  articles  Su- 
gared Seeds,  are  called  Nonpareils; 
they  ait-  tiii^'fil  of  different  colors,  by  the  in- 
troduction of  the  various  coloring  materials 
into  the  sugar  with  which  they  are  cov- 
ered. 

NOUGAT.  Blanch  and  wash  a  pound 
.ilinonds,  and  having  drained  them 
well,  rut  each  into  tive  slips,  which  place  in 
a  gentle  oven  to  dry  ;  let  them  be  all  equally 
coloii-d  of  a  clear  y<  How;  in  tile  meantime, 
put  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  sugar 
into  a  preserving  pan,  set  it  on  a  stove, 
siimns;  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  com- 
pletely dissol\ed  ;  then  take  tlie  almonds  out 
of  the  oven,  and  whilst  hot  throw  them  into 
the  liquid  suyai  ;  mix  them  together  well. 
:;.ould  well  oiled,  of  any  shape 
you  think  proper,  in  the  interior  of  which 
plaee  the  slips  of  almond?,  hv  means  of  lem- 
on-juice, when  the  whole  is  covered,  remove 
tin;  mould  carefully,  and  serve  the  Nougat. 

NOYAU,  ENGLISH.  Two  gallons  of 
gin,  two  pounds  of  bitter  almonds,  one  pound 
of  sweet  almonds,  both  beaten  to  a  fine  paste ; 
six  IMHIII  Is  of  lump  sugar,  pounded  (gome  of 
it  with  the  almonds.)  Let  these  stand  ten 
days  in  the  gin,  (hen  filler  it  through  blotting 
paper,  and  bottle  it. 

M  T  BONBONS.  Boil  a  pound  of 
Spani.-h  nuts;  when  they  are  well  boiled, 
rub  off  their  skin  with  a  napkin,  if  some 
stick  too  hard,  pare  it  off  with  a  knife; 
nr  nuts  very  fine  on  a  sheet  of  pa- 
|.er ;  then  take  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar 
to  a  pound  of  nuts,  put  it  in  a  pun  over  a 
slow  fire;  when  your  sugar  is  all  melted 
( yii  must  stir  it  constantly  with  a  wooden 
E|xx>n)  put  your  nuts  in,  and  work  them  well 
till  all  is  well  mixed,  and  pour  it  upon  a  tin 
plate;  then  spread  it  with  a  rolling  pin,  this 
must  be  done  very  quickly,  as  it  cools  very 
fast ;  when  it  is  cold,  cut  it  into  what  form 
you  please  ;  you  must  take  care  the  sugar  is 
not  loo  much  melted,  for  it  is  very  apt  to 
soften  when  die  nuts  are  added  to  it. 

N I  TS  PRALLNED.  Take  a  pound 
of  Spanish  nuts,  take  them  out  of  their 
shells,  and  put  them  into  a  pan,  with  a 
pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  a  little  water;  let 
them  boil  till  they  begin  to  sparkle;  then 
take  them  off  tlie  fire,  and  stir  them  well 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  till  you  perceive  tlie 
sugar  turns  gravelly;  then  set  them  again 


over  a  slow  fire,  to  dissolve  tlie  sugar;  keep 
stirring,  that  the  sugar  may  stick  to  (he  nuts, 
and  when  you  see  them  turn  reddish,  and 
are  well  covered  with  sugar,  take  them  off, 
pour  tin-in  into  a  sieve,  cover  them  with  a 
clean  cloth,  and  put  them  into  a  stove;  this 
will  preserve  their  gloss. 

NUTMEGS    TO    CANDY.    Take  a 

pound  and  a  half  of  double  refined  sugar, 
half  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  damask  rose-wa- 
ter, and  a  very  little  gum  arabic;  boil  these 
to  a  candy  height ;  let  your  nutmegs  be  first 
soaked  in  water;  then  put  them  into  an 
earthen  pan,  pour  your  candy  to  them,  keep 
them  \ery  close  covered,  set  tliem  in  a  warm 
place  for  about  three  weeks,  and  they  will 
be  of  a  rock  candy. 


O. 


OIL  OF  JUPITER.  Take  three  quarts 
of  spirits  of  wine,  flavored  with  essential  oil 
of  lemon,  the  same  quantity  flavored  with 
spirit  of  cccli  ;it ;  make  a  sirup  with  seven 
pounds  of  sugar,  a  gallon  of  water,  and  two 
liottles  of  Scubac;  mix  the  whole  together, 
and  by  stirring,  it  will  become  thick;  to 
clarify  it,  take  the  whites  of  two  eggs  in 
about  a  pint  of  the  liqueur,  and  afterwards 
put  it  to  the  whole;  stir  it;  then  put  it  into 
a  still  in  the  bain  marie  moderately  heated  ; 
let  it  remain  for  twelve  hours ;  filter  tlie  pro- 
duce of  your  distillation,  and  bottle  it. 

OIL  OF  VENUS.  Reduce  the  follow- 
ing articles  to  an  impalpable,  powder: — an 
ounce  of  skirrel  seeds,  an  ounce  of  caraway 
seeds,  an  ounce  of  anise  seeds,  a  drachm 
and  a  half  of  mace,  and  the  rind  of  an  or- 
.nr..-e;  infuse  these  for  five  days  in  a  gallon 
of  brandy,  then  distil  from  it  in  a  bain  ma- 
rie, two  quarts  of  liqueur;  dissolve  over 
tlie  fire  four  pounds  of  sugar  in  two  quarts 
of  pure  water;  when  cold,  mix  it  with  the 
distilled  liquevr,  and  color  it  of  a  clear  yel- 
low, with  a  little  tincture  of  saffron;  filler 
and  bottle  it ;  seal  (he  corks. 

ORANGES  IN  BRANDY.  Choose 
the  oranges  very  round  and  smooth,  pare, 
prick  tin-in  in  the  middle,  and  put  them  into 
cold  water;  then  blanch  them  in  boiling 
water;  when  tliey  are  tender,  throw  them 
anain  into  cold  water;  in  a  short  time  give 
them  ne\en  or  eight  boils  in  sugar,  a  la  pe- 
tite nappe,  skim,  and  let  them  stand  till 
next  day,  when  the  same  process  must  be 
gone  through;  skim  them  again,  then  put 
(hem  into  hollies,  pour  over  them  equal 
quantities  of  sirup  and  water;  lake  care  to 
cork  them  well. 


ORA 


288 


ORA 


ORANGE,  COMPOTE.  Cut  them 
in  small  pieces,  and  boil  them  !n  wa- 
ter until  they  are  tender,  then  change  them 
into  cold  water;  next  make  a  simp  with 
one  glass  of  water  and  four  ounces  of  sugar, 
and  put  in  the  fruit;  let  it  simmer  gently 
over  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour ;  serve  cold. 

ORANGE,  CROQUE  EN  BOU- 
CHES  OF.  Pare  a  dozen  fine  oranges, 
and  divide  each  into  twelve  pieces,  all  of 
the  same  size ;  scrape  off  every  particle  of 
the  white,  without  breaking  the  thin  skin 
which  contains  the  juice ;  when  all  are  done, 
dip  each  piece  into  some  sugar  boiled  to 
casse  (and  lightly  colored,)  and  place  them 
in  a  plain  mould  of  six  inches  diameter,  and 
five  in  height ;  the  first  row  inclined  one  way, 
the  second  the  reverse  way,  and  so  on ;  lay 
them  at  the  bottom  in  a  slar.  As  soon  as 
the  mould  is  full,  turn  it  out,  and  serve  it 
with  all  possible  expedition,  as  the  moisture 
of  the  fruit  dissolves  the  sugar  so  rapidly, 
that  the  croque  en  bouche  is  liable  to  fall 
to  pieces. 

ORANGE  CAKES.  Divide  the  or- 
anges in  half,  take  out  the  seeds,  and  put 
the  pulp  and  juice  into  a  basin ;  boil  the 
rinds  in  a  saucepan  of  water,  closely  cover- 
ed; when  very  tender  take  them  out,  and 
dry  them  upon  a  cloth ;  allow  to  a  pound  of 
orange  rinds,  two  of  pounded  loaf  sugar; 
pound  the  rinds  in  a  mortar;  add  by  degrees 
the  sugar,  and  then  the  juice  and  pulp;  mix 
it  thoroughly  till  thick  and  yellow,  drop  it 
upon  tins  in  small  cakes,  and  dry  them  un- 
der garden  glasses,  or  in  a  cool  oven.  If 
it  be  too  thick  to  drop,  let  it  stand  a  night. 

ORANGE  SHERBET.  Dissolve  a 
pound  and  half  of  sugar  in  a  quart  of  very 
pure  water;  take  nine  fine  oranges  and  two 
lemons;  wipe  them  well  with  a  napkin,  and 
having  grated  the  most  fragrant  rinds,  squeeze 
on  them  the  juice  of  these  fruits;  sweeten 
this  juice  with  the  above  sirup,  run  the  whole 
through  a  close  hair  sieve,  and  finish  in 
the  usual  way.  (See  Sherbet.) 

ORANGE  SHRUB.  Put  ten  pounds 
of  crushed  sugar  to  two  gallons  of  water, 
and  boil  it  until  the  sugar  be  dissolved ;  skim 
it  well,  and  put  it  into  a  tub;  when  quite 
cold,  pour  it  into  a  barrel ;  add  three  quarts 
of  Jamaica  rum,  and  six  quarts  of  orange- 
juice  (take  care  there  are  no  pips.)  Beat 
up  the  white  of  an  egg,  mix  it  with  the 
shrub,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  week ;  then 
draw  it  off*  and  bottle  it. 

ORANGE  SUGAR.  Rasp  on  a  piece 
of  sugar  the  rinds  of  the  l>est  oranges,  but 
so  lightly  that  not  a  particle  of  tlie  white  is 


mixed  with  it;  scrape  off  the  surface  of  tlie 
sugar  as  it  Incomes  colored,  and  continue 
this  operation  until  you  have  as  much  sugar 
as  you  require;  then  lay  it  in  a  stove,  or  at 
tlie  mouth  of  the  oven  to  dry ;  when  it  is 
perfectly  so,  pass  it  through  a  very  fine 
sieve.  Lemons  and  cedrats  may  be  grated, 
and  the  sugar  dried  in  the  same  manner. 

9RANGES,  GREEN.  Scrape  out  the 
insides  of  the  oranges  quite  clean,  then  let 
them  lie  for  three  days  in  cold  water,  chang- 
ing the  water  daily,  then  boil  them  very 
slowly  till  the  water  is  bitter;  then  put 
them  into  other  boiling  water,  set  them  by; 
repeating  this  daily  till  all  the  bitterness  is 
extracted:  make  a  rich  sirup  of  the  last 
water  they  are  boiled  in,  with  Lisbon  sugar; 
when  cold,  put  them  in;  the  next  day  boil 
them  in  the  sirup;  repeat  this  till  they  are 
green  and  tender;  cover  with  brandy-paper. 

ORANGE,  WATER  ICE.  Take  off 
the  rind  of  two  Seville  oranges,  very  fine 
and  thin ;  squeeze  the  juice  into  a  basin 
with  one  lemon ;  add  half  a  pint  of  sirup, 
and  half  a  pint  of  water;  pass  diem  through 
a  sieve,  and  freeze  them  rich. 

ORANGE-FLOWER      CONSERVE. 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  clarified  sugar  to  grande 
plume,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  pour  into 
it  a  dessert  spoonful  of  orange-Mower  water; 
stir  them  together  well,  set  the  mixture  on 
the  fire,  and  when  warm,  pour  it  into  shal- 
low paper-cases;  let  it  cool,  and  then  cut  it 
into  cakes  of  any  form  you  please. 

ORANGE-FLOWER  PASTILS.  Pul- 
verise a  good  pinch  of  dried  orange-flowers; 
pound  them  with  gum-dragon,  previously 
dissolved  in  one  glass  of  plain,  and  the 
same  quantity  of  orange-flower  water;  add 
a  sufficient  proportion  of  powder-sugar,  to 
make  the  paste  of  the  requisite  consistence, 
which  form  according  to  your  taste  into 
cones,  lozenges,  &c. 

ORANGE-FLOWER     PRALINES. 

Take  a  pound  of  very  fresh  white  orange- 
flowers,  pick,  and  throw  them  into  cold 
water;  clarify,  and  boil  two  pounds  of  sugar 
to  touffle,  then  put  in  the  flowers;  stir 
them  with  a  spatula,  until  your  sugar  re- 
gains the  degree  of  souffle;  take  the  pan 
from  the  fire,  and  continue  stirring  till  the 
sugar  is  separated  from  the  (lowers,  and  be- 
comes a  powder;  set  it  in  a  stove  to  dry, 
then  set  the  whole  on  a  sieve,  that  the  sugar 
may  run  through  and  leave  the  flowers, 
which  put  into  bottles.  If  preserved  in  a 
dry  place  they  will  keep  for  twelve  months. 

ORANGE-FLOWERS  SIRUP.    Clar- 


ORG 


289 


ORG 


ify  and  boil  four  pounds  of  sugar  to  perle, 
then  add  three-<|u;irters  of  a  pound  of  frcsli 
orange-flowers  picked,  and  lx>il  them  once; 
then  take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  let  it 
eland  for  two  hour.-',  after  which,  replace,  it 
on  the  fire ;  when  it  has  had  aliout  a  dozen 
boilings,  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  anoth- 
er saucepan,  boil  the  sirup  to  line,  and 
put  it  aside;  when  quite  cold,  bottle  it. 
The  flowers  may  l>e  used  as  follows:  put 
ihein  into  jxiwder-sugar,  with  which  nib 
them  well  with  your  hands,  till  quite  dry, 
then  sift  and  put  them  in  a  stove. 

<:I:AN<;F.-FLOWER  WATER.   Pm 

in!.'  a  still  ten  pounds  of  fresh  gathered  or- 
ange-flouers,  and  six  quarts  of  pure  river 
water;  lake  particular  care  to  close  up  all 
the  apertures  of  the  still  perfectly,  and  set  it 
on  a  moderate  tire,  that  the  ebullition  may 
not  be  too  strong ;  be  particular  in  cooling 
it  fn-qtieiitly,  or,  at  least,  whenever  the  wa- 
ter in  the  boiler  becomes  too  warm,  change 
it,  and  put  in  fresh;  much  depends  on  the 
attention  paid  to  this  part  of  the  operation. 
From  the  above  quantity,  three  quarts  of 
Orange-Bower  water  may  !*•  drawn. 

ORANGE-FLOWER  DOUBLE 
WATER.  Draw  four  quarts  of  orange- 
flovver  water  from  six  quarts  distilled  as 
above;  put  to  this  water  the  ?ame  quantity 
of  fresh  (lowers,  distil  it  in  the  same  manner, 
and  it  will  yield  five  pints. 

ORANGE  PEEL  TO  CANDY.    Take 

some  orange  peel,  and  let  it  soak   in  .-ive- 
ral  waters  till  it  has  lost  its  bitten 
lioil    it  in  a    solution  of  double-refined  su- 
gar   in    water,    till  it  becomes  tender  and 

tiansjjarent. 

ORANGE   PEEL  TO    PRESEUVK. 

Cut  the  oranges  in  halves,  take  out  the  pulp, 
put  the  peel  in  strong  salt  and  spring  water, 
to  soak  for  three  days,  repeat  this  three 
times,  then  put  them  on  a  sieve  to  dry; 
take  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  add  to  it  one 
quart  of  spring  water,  lx>il  it,  skim  it  until 
quite  clear;  let  tlie  peels  simmer  until  they 
are  quite  trans|Kiivni;  dry  them  before  the 
fire;  take  loaf-sugar,  with  just  sufficient 
water  to  dissolve  it;  whilst  the  sugar  is 
boiling,  put  in  the  peels,  stirring  continually 
until  all  the  sugar  is  candied  round  them, 
then  put  them  to  dry  either  before  the  fire 
or  in  an  oven,  and  when  |>crfectly  dried, 
put  them  by  for  use. 

ORGEAT.     Blanch   a  pound   of  sweet, 
and  twenty-four  bitter  almonds ;  pound  them 
to  an  exceedingly  fine  paste,  adding  water 
25 


occasionally  to  prevent  their  oiling ;  mix  a 
gallon  of  water,  two  pounds  of  sugar  and 
orange-flower  water,  with  this  paste;  beat 
them  together  for  some  time ;  then  strain  it 
two  or  three  times  through  a  jully-bag,  stir- 
ring it  with  a  spatula,  and  serve  it  in  de- 
canters. 

ORGEAT  PASTE.  Pound  the  almonds 
with  a  little  orange-flower  water  to  a  fine 
paste,  and  Uien  work  up  with  it  an  equal 
weight  of  powder-sugar.  This  paste  uill 
keep  a  long  while,  and  by  dissolving  a  small 
portion  of  it  in  water,  and  straining  it,  or- 
geat may  be  prepared  very  quickly.  An 
ounce  of  the  paste  is  sufficient  for  half  a 
pint  of  water. 

ORGEAT  SIRUP.    Take  a  pound  and 

a  half  of  sweet,  and  half  a  pound  of  bitter 
almonds,  throw  them  into  boiling  water,  and 
leave  them  till  the  skins  ean  be  removed 
with  ease,  then  throw  them  into  cold  water 
for  a  minute  before  you  blanch  them,  after 
which,  they  must  again  lie  put  into  cold 
water;  then  pound  them,  a  few  at  a  time, 
in  a  marble  mortar,  adding  occasionally 
some  water  to  prevent  their  oiling  ;  when 
all  are  beaten  to  a  very  fine  paste,  dilute  this 
with  the  greater  |iarl  of  a  quart  of  water, 
(of  which  reserve  six  ounces)  ;  put  the 
paste  into  a  Strong  cloth;  squee/.e  am!  wring 
out  all  the  milk  from  the  almonds,  put  the 
latter  into  (he  mortar,  and  pound  them 
again,  adding  by  degrees  the  remainder  of 
the  water,  and  then  squeeze  these  also  in  a 
cloth ;  |xmr  the  whole  of  this  milk  into  a 
•  nougli  to  contain,  at  least, 
one-third  more  liquid,  add  to  it  two  pounds 
of  lump-sugar,  and  a  pint  of  orange-flower 
water;  cork  the  matrass  tight,  and  set  it 
on  a  bain  marie;  wlien  die  sugar  is  com- 
pletely dissolved,  (which  should  be  accelera- 
ted b\  .-hakins  tht!  matrass  occasionally),  les- 
sen the  fire  by  degrees,  and  as  soon  as  the 
r<]ite  cold,  put  the  sirup  into  bottles. 

If  yon  should  have  no  matrass,  you  may 
make  your  sirup  in  the  following  manner: 
boil  the  above  mentioned  quantity  of  sugar 
to  forte  plume,  then  add  the  milk  of  al- 
monds, and  as  soon  as  it  has  boiled  up  twice, 
take  it  from  the  fire;  when  cold,  flavor  it 
with  a  pint  of  orange-flower  water. 

Or  this  sirup  may  be  made  in  a  still  more 
simple  way,  'as  thus:  put  the  milk  of  al- 
moinis  into  some  pounded  sugar,  without 
lieing  clarified  or  boiled  previously;  when 
the  simp  !>egins  to  boil,  add  alxmt  a  coflfee- 
cupful  of  orange-flower  water,  and  after  it 
has  boiled  tip  two  or  three  times,  take  it 
from  the  fire;  let  it  get  quite  cold  before 
you  bottle  it.  Keep  it  well  corked. 


PAS 


290 


PEA 


P. 


PARFAIT  AMOUR.  Take  four  very 
fine  fresh  cedrats,  p;ire  them  very  thin,  and 
infuse  them  with  half  an  ounce  of  fine  cinna- 
mon, and  four  ounces  of  coriander,  in  three 
gallons  of  strong  brandy,  and  a  quart  of  wa- 
ter, for  a  week  or  ten  days,  when  distil  it 
in  the  bain  marie;  this  quantity  of  brandy, 
if  good,  will  yield  two  gallons  and  half  a 
pint  of  spirit.  Dissolve  three  pounds  and  a 
half  of  sugar  in  seven  pints  of  river  water, 
color  it  with  cochineal,  then  add  it  to  the 
spirit,  filter,  and  bottle  it. 

PASTILLES.  To  make  these  articles, 
it  is  necessary  to  have  a  small  copper  stew- 
pan  that  will  hold  about  a  pint,  rather  deep 
than  wide,  with  a  pointed  lip  on  die  right 
side,  and  a  tolerably  long  handle,  also  two 
pieces  of  wood,  one  about  eighteen  inches 
long,  and  four  in  diameter,  called  the  bois 
a  tabeller,  the  other  about  half  the  length, 
one  inch  in  diameter,  and  the  lower  emi, 
pointed  so  that  it  will  exactly  fit  the  lip  of 
the  pan  ;  this  is  called  the  bois  a  egoutter; 
six  or  eight  tin  plates  about  the  size  of  a 
sheet  of  letter-paper. 

For  the  best  pastilles,  take  a  pound  of 
double-refined  sugar  reduced  to  an  impalpa- 
ble powder;  sift  it  through  a  tammy  on  a 
sheet  of  white  paper,  put  four  or  five  spoon- 
fuls of  this  sugar  into  your  pan,  pour  on  it  a 
little  orange-flower  water,  and  beat  it  well 
with  the  larger  stick,  until  the  preparation 
is  sufficiently  thin  to  run  from  the  stick 
without  being  clear;  if  it  be  so,  more  sugar 
must  be  added.  Put  the  pan  over  a  chafing- 
dish  filled  with  live  coals,  and  let  it  stand 
(stirring  constantly)  till  it  boils;  then  take 
it  off  I  he  chafing-d'ish,  add  two  more  spoon- 
fuls of  sugar,  work  it  up  well,  scrape  away 
whatever  sugar  adheres  to  the  stick,  set  it 
aside,  and  take  the  smaller  stick  in  your 
right  hand,  hold  the  pan  in  your  left  (slant- 
ing) over  one  of  the  tin-plates;  the  sugar 
will,  by  these  means,  flow  to  the  lip,  then 
strike  the  point  of  the  stick  into  the  lip  of 
the  pan,  which  action  will  separate  the 
liquid,  so  that  each  time  the  stick  strikes 
the  lip  a  single  drop  of  the  preparation  will 
fall  on  the  tin;  a  little  practice  will  be  ne- 
cessarv  before  this  operation  can  be  perform- 
ed neatly.  As  soon  as  all  your  sugar,  &c. 
is  used,"  replenish  the  pan  and  proceed  as 
above  directed,  until  you  have  as  many 
pastilles  as  you  may  require.  When  cold 
and  hard,  remove  them  from  the  tins  with 
your  hand,  and  keep  them  in  boxes  in  a 
dry  place.  You  may,  if  you  please,  color 
the  pastilles,  taking  care  to  perfume  them 
with  a  corresponding  odour. 


PASTILLES,  COMMON.  These  are 
made  in  the  same  manner  as  the  best  sort, 
the  difference  consists  in  the  materials, 
(which  are  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powder 
to  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar)  and 
the  perfumes  are  omitted . 

PASTILLAGES.  Put  two  ounces  of 
well-washed  gum  dragon  into  an  earthen 
pan,  with  as  much  clear  hot  water  as  will 
cover  it,  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  to  keep  out 
the  dust,  and  let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours ; 
then  squeeze  it  through  a  coarse  cloth  into 
a  marble  mortar,  and  add  to  it  as  much 
starch  ;uid  sugar  (both  in  powder)  as  the 
gum  water  will  contain ;  |xtmid  these  ingre- 
dients well,  and  strain  them  through  a  tammy 
into  a  pan  which  keep  covered  with  a  damp 
cloth.  This  pastillage  is  used  to  form  the 
ornamental  parts  of  pastry  and  confection- 
ary, such  as  temples,  baskets,  &c.,  and  may 
be  tinged  of  the  requisite  shades,  by  mix- 
ing with  it  any  of  the  coloring  materials. 

PEACHES  IN   A   COMPOTE.     Cut 

your  peaches  in  half,  t.^ke  out  the  stones, 
peel  them,  then  set  them  on  the  fire  in  a 
sugar-pan,  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  thick 
clarified  sugar  to  cover  them,  and  let  them 
simmer  in  this  gently  till  done;  then  take 
them  out  in  a  basin,  put  in  the  kernels  to 
the  sugnr,  and  let  it  boil  until  tolerably  thick ; 
put  in  the  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons,  and 
pour  the  sirup  over  the  peaches;  serve  them 
in  a  deep  hot  dish. 

PEARS  IN  BRANDY.  Take  some 
beurre  pears,  not  too  ripe,  put  them  into  a 
saucejxtn  with  a  smTicient  quantity  of  water 
to  cover  them,  set  them  on  the  fire,  and  let 
them  .simmer,  but  not  boil,  until  the  pears 
will  yield  to  the  pressure  of  your  finger; 
then  change  them  into  cold  water;  pare 
them  with  the  greatest  care,  so  that  not  a 
single  spot  may  remain ;  prick,  and  put  them 
again  on  the  fire  in  fresh  water  and  the  juice 
of  a  lemon;  let  them  boil  very  fast.  As 
soon  as  tl»e  pears  are  soft  enough  for  the 
head  of  a  pin  to  penetrate  them  easily,  take 
them  out  carefully  with  a  skimmer,  and  lay 
them  in  cold  water.  In  the  meantime,  hav- 
ing boiled  your  sugar  to  lisse,  pour  the 
boiling  sirup  on  the  pears,  (previously 
drained  from  the  water,)  and  leave  them. 
The  next  day  drain  off  the  sirup,  boil  it  to 
la  nappe,  then  put  in  the  pears,  give  them 
a  boil  also;  proceed  in  die  same  manner  on 
the  third  day,  after  which,  drain  die  fruk, 
and  put  it  into  bottles.  Boil  up  the  sirup  a 
few  more  times,  let  it  cool,  and  then  ^>our 
on  it  some  brandy,  (three-fourths  of  die 
quantity  of  the  sirup;)  run  die  mixture 
through  a  bag,  put  it  to  the  pears,  and  cork 
the  bottles  well. 


P  IS 


291 


P  LU 


PEARS  CANDIED.  Are  done  like 
apricots. 

PEARS,  COMPOTE  OF.  Take  some 
good  sized  pears,  cut  them  in  halves,  ami 
put  ilimi  into  boiling  water;  when  soft, 
change  them  intci  cold  water,  in  which 
squeeze  a  little  lemon-juice.  Boil  some 
clarified  sugar,  drain  (lie  fruit  well  from  the 
water,  and  then  put  them  into  the  simp;  i 
boil  together  until  the  pears  are  su!jicj.<iifry 
.iin,  and  place  them  in  the  compo- 
tier.  A  little  Burgundy  wine  and  prewired 
cochineal  will  give  the  compote  a  red  color. 

IT,  \K  .MARMALADE.  Take  sis 
pounds  of  small  |»eais  and  lour  pound-  of 
Minar  ;  put  the  jicars  into  a  saucepan  with 
ii  little,  water,  .-et  it  on  the  tire;  when  the 
fruit  is  soft,  take  them  out,  pate,  quarter, 
and  core  th  .....  ;  as  ym  do  tills,  llnow  each 
piece  into  C"lci  water,  in  another  .-.incepan, 
and  when  all  are  (lone,  set  them  on  the  lire. 
As  soon  a.-  they  are  sufficiently  soft,  nil) 
them  tlnoiiuli  having  in  the 

meantime  clarified  and  l»oiled  tli. 
petit  lisse,  pour  the  sirup  to  the  pnlp,.-et  it 
on  tlie  tire,  and  ~t\r  them  together  until  the 
marmalade  is  of  the  proper  con-i-lence  : 
tlien  take  it  otV,  put  it  into  pots,  and  when 
Cold,  tie  them  down. 

I'i:i;>IC\.  Cut  about  one  hundred 
peach  leaves,  put  them  into  a  wide-mouthed 
bottle,  |x>nr  on  them  a  quart  of  the  l>cst 
brandy,  cork  it  close;  in  three  week.-  Mi  am 
it  off,  and  put  to  it  an  equal  quantity  of  ca- 
pillaire.  It  is  good  in  custards,  puddings, 
and  ..-  a  liijumr. 

I'lM!     AITI.K    CHIPS.       Pare   and 

trim  a  pine-apple,  divide,  and  slice  each 
half  into  pieces  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  ; 
take  half  the  weight  of  the  fruit  ill  powdcr- 
su^ai  :  lay  the  .-lice-  in  a  lia.-in,  with  suifar 
iii-tween;  let  it  stand  till  the  .-ujj.ir 
Ived,  then  .-,-t  it  on  a  model  ale  liie 
to  simmer  till  the  chips  be  quite  clear,  when 
set  it  In.  The  next  day  remove  all  flu- 
sh-up from  the  slice?,  place  them  on  glasses, 
and  dry  them  in  a  gentle  oven. 


TIM:  APPI.F.  IN  \ 
Turn  off  the  rind  of  a  pine,  cut  it  in  .-lice-, 
but  not  too  thin;  have  some  sugar  on  the 
fire  in  a  sugar-pan,  into  which  put  the  slices 
of  pine,  anil  let  them  boil  gently  till  the  simp 
is  tolcraMy  thick,  then  take  out  the  pine, 
and  lay  it  on  a  dish;  mix  with  the  .-near, 
the  jnice  of  a  couple  of  lemons,  and  pout  it 
over  the  pine. 

PISTACHIO  MAKCHPANE.     Put  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  pUlaclnoa  into  a  mortar, 


pound  them,  moistening  with  white  of  egg, 
to  a  very  fine  paste;  in  the  meantime  clari- 
fy the  same  quantity  of  sugar,  Ixiil  it  to  petit 
boule;  then  take  the  |>an  from  the  fire,  put 
in  the  pi.-lachios,  Mir  them  together  well, 
replace  the  pan  on  hot  ashes,  continually 
stirring,  till  the  paste  is  of  a  proper  consis- 
tence, then  pour  it  on  a  slab  well  sprinkled 
with  sugar;  as  soon  as  it  is  cold,  cut  it  into 
whatever  firms  your  fancy  may  dictate. 

PLF.MS.  l\  I',KA\])V.  Take  twelve 
pounds  of  fine  magnum  bonum  plums,  and 
three  pounds  of  sugar;  the  fruit  should  be 
turned  in  color,  but  notri|M>;  prick,  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  witJi  cold  water,  set 
them  on  the  lire;  when  the  water  boil-  and 
the  plums  rise,  lake  them  out  carefully  with 
a  skimmer  and  put  them  into  a  pan  of  (old 
water;  clarifv  and  bod  the  sugar  to  petit 
lisse,  put  the  plums  to  it,  and  give  them  a 
boil;  the  two  succeeding  (lavs,  drain  off 
and  boil  the  sirup,  first  alone,  and  aftcr- 
wanis  with  the  fruit;  the  third  day  drain 
the  plums,  and  put  them  into  Uittles;  then 
boil  the  sirup  lo  la  nappe,  and  when  cold, 
add  to  it  three-loin  ths  of  its  quantity  of  the 
Ix-st  brandy,  stir  it  well,  strain  and  |xnir  the 
mixture  over  the  plums.  Cork  the  littles 
tight.  (lYeen-iiaije  plums  are  done  like 
apricots.  (See  slpricots  in  Brandy.) 

PLUMS  CANDIED.  Choose  your 
fruit  of  a  nice  shape  and  good  si/e;  cut 
them  in  halves,  lay  them  on  a  lame  .-hallow 
di>h,  strew  |«)vvder-sii^ar  over,  and  put 
them  into  a  moderate  oven,  tightly  closed; 
in  half  an  hour's  time,  take  llieni  out.  and 
place  the  plums  (.ne  by  one  on  glass  plates 
to  dry. 

PI.IMS,  CI.r.AR  CAKES  OF.  Fill 
ajar  with  the  white  pear  plums,  yet  it  in  a 
.  an  of  boiling  water  on  the  lire ;  w  hen 
snlticiently  done,  let  the  clear  juice  run 
from  it,  and  to  every  pint  of  it,  add  an  equal 
quantity  of  siiijar,  1  mi  led  to  candy  heiyht ; 
put  the  juice  to  the  sirup,  set  it  on  the  lire, 
and  keep  stirring  it  till  the  whole  is  quite 
hot,  but  not  Ixiiling  ;  then  (xuir  it  into  glass- 
es, and  dry  the  cakes  in  a  stove. 


PI.IMS,  M.\I;M  U.AIU:  OF. 

-i\  pounds  of  plums,  and  four  pounds  of 
sugar;  stone,  and  put  the  fruit  into  a  cul- 
lender, U-at  it  through  with  a  wooden  pe.-tle 

into  a  preMrving-pan,  which  set  on  the  fire, 

to  dry  the  pulp,  -tii  riiu  i'  constantly.  In 
the  meantime,  clarify  ;uid  IMIJ!  the  -uyar  to 
petit  caste,  then  mix  it  with  the  fruit  (.-till 
on  die  lire,)  stir  it  till  the  whole  is  of  the 
consistence  of  jelly,  then  take  it  off,  and 
pour  the  marmalade  into  pots. 

If  the  plums  are  not  quite  ripe,  they  must 


POM 


292 


POU 


be  boiled  once  or  twice  before  they  are 
pressed  through  the  cullender.  Some  of 
the  kernels  may  be  added,  if  approved; 
they  should  be  pounded  before  putting  in  the 
marmalade. 

PLUMS  PRESERVED,  DRY.  Gath- 
er  die  plums  when  full  grown  and  just  turn- 
ing color,  pi  ick  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
of  cold  water,  set  them  on  the  fire  until  the 
water  is  on  the  point  of  boiling;  then  take 
them  out,  drain  and  boil  them  well  in  some 
clarified  sugar,  let  them  settle,  and  then  boil 
diem  again ;  if  they  shrink  and  will  not  take 
the  sugar,  prick  them  as  they  lay  in  the  pan, 
and  then  give  them  another  boil,  Siiim  and 
set  them  by:  the  next  day,  add  some  more 
sugar,  boiled  to  souffle,  to  the  fruit,  and 
sirup,  then  do  them  together;  place  them 
in  a  stove  till  next  day,  when  drain  the 
plums  from  the  sirup,  sprinkle  a  little  pow- 
der-sugar over,  and  dry  them  in  a  stove. 

PLUMS,     PRESERVED     LIQUID. 

Gather  the  plums  green,  firm,  and  when  the 
etone  may  be  extracted  with  ease,  cut  the 
Btalks  close,  and  prick  the  fruit  in  several 
places,  especially  round  the  stalk ;  then 
place  them  in  a  saucepan  of  water  over  the 
fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  water  is  ready  to 
boil,  take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire ;  in 
four-and-twenty  hours,  replace  the  plums  in 
the  same  water  on  a  gentle  fire,  with  a  small 
quantity  of  verjuice  to  preserve  their  color. 
Keep  the  water  hot,  without  allowing  it  to 
boil,  for  three  hours,  stirring  it  occasional- 
ly ;  when  the  fruit  is  perfectly  green,  increase 
die  heat  till  the  plums  rise  to  the  surface, 
when  they  must  be  taken  out  and  thrown 
into  cold  water,  which  change  frequently  till 
die  plums  are  perfectly  cold,  then  drain 
diem.  Put  the  fruit  in  some  sugar  boiled  to 
la  nappe,  boil  them  up  a  few  times,  adding 
a  little  water;  skim,  and  dien  pour  the 
whole  into  a  pan ;  the  next  two  days,  drain 
off  the  sirup,  and  increase  the  degree  of 
boiling  each  day ;  the  third  and  fourth  days, 
boil  die  fruit  with  the  sirup,  keeping  them 
covered,  and  increasing  the  degree,  until  the 
last  time,  it  reaches  to  perle.  Put  the 
preserve  into  pots,  and  place  them  for  two 
days  in  a  stove. 

The  same  fruit  may  be  preserved  dry 
also.  The  operation  is  die  same,  but  die 
sirup  is  drained  off,  and  die  plums  laid  on 
tin  plates  before  they  are  put  into  die  stove. 

POMEGRANATE  CLEAR   CAKES. 

Pare  some  good  boiling  apples,  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  as  much  water  as  will 
cover  them,  set  them  on  the  fire,  and  when 
perfectly  soft,  press  the  pulp  through  a  sieve, 
and  then  strain  it.  Boil  diis  jelly  with  the 


juice  of  two  or  diree  pomegranates,  diat  of 
one  orange,  and  one  lemon,  and  the  rind  of 
each  grated;  strain  it  again,  and  to  every 
pound  of  jelly  add  a  pound  and  a  quarter 
of  fine  sugar,  boiled  till  it  cracks,  color  it 
with  cochineal;  pour  it  into  glasses  (taking 
off  die  scum  before  it  becomes  cold).  Set 
them  in  a  stove,  and  when  the  top  is  dry, 
turn  them  out,  and  put  them  to  dry  again; 
then  cut  diem  into  whatever  forms  you 
please,  put  them  into  the  stove  or  oven  to 
harden,  then  lay  them  on  sieves,  and  wlien 
thoroughly  dry,  place  diem  in  boxes  widi 
paper  between.  As  they  are  apt  to  become 
moist,  diey  should  be  looked  at  frequently. 

POMEGRANATE  JELLY,  TRANS- 
PARENT. Take  the  seeds  from  five 
very  fine  pomegranates,  from  which  extract 
the  juice  by  pressing  it  hard  through  a 
horse-hair  sieve ;  filter  this  juice  and  mix  it 
with  some  sirup  tinged  of  a  rose  color,  will) 
a  little  cochineal;  add  the  isinglass  to  this, 
and  finish  as  usual.  (See  Jelly  Fruit.) 

POMEGRANATE      SIRUP.      Take 

five  very  ripe  large  pomegranates,  extract 
the  seeds  (which  must  be  very  red) ;  crush, 
and  put  them  into  a  skillet,  with  half  a 
pint  of  water;  set  diein  on  the  fire  till  soft, 
and  then  squeeze  the  juice  through  a  new 
coarse  cloth ;  clarify  a  pound  and  half  of 
sugar,  and  boil  it  to  souffle,  then  add  die 
juice,  boil  them  together  to  the  usual  con- 
sistence of  simps.  It  must  not  be  bottled 
until  quite  cold.  This  number  of  pome- 
granates will  yield  a  quart  of  sirup. 

POUPELIN.  Put  into  a  saucepan  (bur 
glasses  of  water,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  die  zette  of  a  lemon,  and  a  pinch 
of  fine  salt;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon 
as  it  begins  to  boil,  take  it  off,  and  put  in 
as  much  sifted  flour  as  will  make  a  paste 
the  consistence  of  choux,  then  replace  it 
on  the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  till  it  dries; 
make  a  similar  mixture,  and  when  that 
also  is  dry,  put  both  into  a  mortar,  with 
half  a  pound  of  powder  sugar,  an  ounce  of 
orange-flowers,  and  two  eggs  at  a  time,  un- 
til five  and  twenty  or  thirty  are  used,  by 
which  time  the  paste  will  l>e  of  the  proper 
consistence,  then  pour  it  into  a  lightly  but- 
tered tin;  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven,  and 
leave  it.  In  three  hours'  time,  if  die 
poupelin  is  of  a  nice  gold  color,  take  it 
out,  cut  off  die  top,  and  with  a  spoon  re- 
move all  die  inside,  then  set  it  in  die 
oven  to  dry.  When  cold,  spread  all  over 
the  interior  apricot  marmalade,  on  which 
strew  sweet  macaroons  crushed,  dien  turn 
it  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 


RAS 


293 


ROS 


Q 

QTINCE  CAKES.  Pare  nml  core 
half  ;i  dozen  quinces,  boil  tlifin  till  quite 
soft ;  tlien  nib  the  pulp  through  a  sieve,  and 
strain  it;  mix  this  with  half  a  pint  of  simp 
of  quinces,  and  the  same  of  simp  of  barber- 
ries, and  a  quarter  of  a  |X)iin<l  of  line  sugar; 
boil  the  whole  io  caste,  and  then  pour  it 
>ll  shallow  moulds,  of  any  shajx' 
you  please  ;  Id  tin-in  cool  a  little,  and  then 
dry  them  in  :i 

( l\  I  N  <  T.  ( ' A  K  HS  TRANSPARENT. 
Take  .1  quart  of  simp  of  quinces,  and  half  a 
pint  of  the  sirup  of  barberries;  set  them  on 
il  gentle  fire,  lioi  and  skim  them  well;  then 
add  tuo  p  Mini-  :ni  I  a  half  of  I1 
keep  .-tirring  imt il  it  reaches  candy  height; 
then  t.ike  il  off,  and  when  nearly  cold,  lay 
il,  in  any  form  you  please,  on  tin  plates. 
Drv  them  in  a  sto\e. 


K. 


KASl'HF.KKY  CAKES.  Cat  her  some 
raspberries  Ix-fore  they  are  <;uite  rijie,  pick, 
and  lav  them  in  a  stove  to  dry;  then  Ijeat 
them  in  a  mortar.  Take  a  pound  and 
quarter  of  line  sugar,  clarity  and  boil  it  to 
Caste;  then  weigh  half  a  pound  of  rasplx-r- 
ries,  dri*  :  throw  them  into  tile 

sirup,  \\  ith  half  a  s|K>onful  of  white  of  egg, 
beaten  in  cream;  stir  it  can  fully,  give  it  a 
boil,  and  pour  it  in  moulds  or  pap  i 

R  AS  I'l  JERRIES  OF  M ARCH  PANE. 

Take  a  piiimd  of  marcli|Kinc,  the  juice  of 
four  lemons,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rasp- 
berry jellv,  and  a  little  cochineal;  mix  these 

with  a  strong  wooden  spatula  ;  then 
add  two  handfuls  of  lloiir,  and  sonn-  powdet 
Fugar:  when  well  worked  up,  roll  them  into 

Unit  the  size  of  a  linger,  cut  these 
into  dice,  roll  each  into  a  ball,  pinch  the 
top  into  a  |K)int,  so  a.s  to  resemble  the  firm 

lierry:  then  put  them  one  by  one 
into  pa;  liich  pi  ice  in  a  dry 

warm  place,  for  eight  or  ten  days.  At  the 
end  of  that  time,  put  a  jxnti  >n  of  .sirup  of 
rasplxTrics,  a  little  cochineal,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  powder-sug:ir  into  a  pan;  mix 

ether  with  a  s|.-oou,  and  then  throw 
into  it  a  couple  of  liandfnls  of  the  raspber- 
ries; take  the  pun  in  both  hands,  and  shake 
it  abniii,  so  that  the  rasplx-rrics  may  Ix- 
equally  covered  with  tiie  red  simp;  then 

r   a  la  grele  on   a   large   .-licet  of 

..read  it  out  a  little,  and  while  the 
raspberries  arc  wet  wiih  the  sirup,  throw 
25» 


them  into  the  sugar;  then  take  the  four 
corners  of  the  paper,  shake  it  about  well, 
by  which  means  the  sugar  will  adhere  to 
the  raspberries  in  all  parts,  and  give  them 
a  (xrfect  resemblance  to  the  real  fruit ;  take 
them  out  carefully  one  by  one,  lay  them  on 
paper,  and  put  them  in  a  warm  place  for 
some  days.  These  artificial  raspberries  are 
of  a  pleasant  flavor,  and  will  keep  several 
years. 

RASPBERRY  MARMALADE.  Take 
double  tfte  weight  of  raspberriee  to  that  of 
sugar.  Rub  the  fruit  through  a  sieve,  and 
put  the  pulp  into  a  saucepan;  set  it  on  die 
fire,  and  stir  till  it  is  reduced  to  half  ;  then 
jKiur  on  the  sugar,  previously  clarified  and 
boiled  to  petit  boule,  stir  it  well  in,  put  it 
on  the  fire,  give  it  a  few  boils,  and  then 
pour  it  into  pots. 

RASPP.ERRIES  PRESERVED.  Take 

(i\e  or  six  pounds  of  red,  but  not  loo  ripe 
rasplierries,  pick,  and  put  them  into  a  pre- 
serving pan,  with  an  equal  weight  of  clari- 
fied sugar,  Ixiiled  to  petit  boule;  when 
they  have  boiled  up  about  a  dozen  times, 
skim,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  pan  till  the 
next  day,  then  drain  the  fruit,  and  put  it 
int. i  jars;  put  to  the  sirup  about  two  glass- 
es uf  cherry  juice,  previously  strained;  boil 
the  sugar  to  la  nappt,  and  then  pour  it 
over  the  raspljerries ;  add  afterwards,  about 
a  s|x>onful  of  currant  jelly  to  each  pot,  and 
when  cold,  lay  on  branJy  papers,  and  tie 
them  down. 

RATAFIA  OF  FOUR  FRUITS.  Tak«5 

ten  pounds  of  very  ripe  cherries,  two  pounds 
and  a  half  of  raspberries,  five  pounds  and  a 
half  of  red  and  two  pounds  of  black  cur- 
rant-; pick,  and  mix  these  fruits  together, 
press  the  juice  from  them,  measure  it,  and 
for  every  quart  of  juice,  take  half  a  pound 
of  sugar,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  brandy; 
dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  juice,  then  put  in 
the  brandy,  a  drachm  of  mace,  and  two 
drachms  of  cloves.  Let  the  whole  stand 
some  time,  filter,  and  bottle  it.  Keep  them 
well  corked. 

K<  )S  ES,  CANDIED.  Crisp  two  hand- 
fills  of  rose-lcau-s  in  some  clarified  sugar, 
boil  them  tu  fort  toitffle,  then  lake  the  pan 
from  the  fire,  pour  it  on  a  sieve,  let  tlie  sir- 
up run  from  the  leaves,  nibbing  the  latter  in 
your  hands,  then  dry  them  in  a  sto\e.  15oil 
your  sugar  again  to' souffle,  adding  a  litUe 
carmine  to  color  it,  have  a  pi<|ii  mould 
ready,  ]M>ur  the  .-n^ar  into  it,  and  put  the 
(lowers  on  il,  push  them  down  lightly  with 
u  fork,  that  they  may  Ije  compleu 
ed  with  the  sugar;  place  the  mould  in  a 
moderate  glove  or  oven  for  five  days,  then 


SEE 


294 


STR 


drain  off  the  sirup ;  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  on 
the  table,  and  turn  the  candy  quickly  out 
of  the  mould. 

ROSES,  CONSERVE  OF.  Boil  half 
a  pound  of  sugar  to  fort  souffle,  pour  into 
this  sirup  the  best  double-distilled  rose 
water;  Iwil  it  again  to  fort  perle,  mix 
with  it  a  little  prepared  cochineal  or  car- 
mine to  color  it,  and  pour  your  conserve 
into  moulds. 

ROSE  RED  DROPS.  Take  a  small 
quantity  of  red  bastard  saffron,  and  a  little 
calcined  alum,  boil  those  in  some  water  until 
it  is  sufficiently  tinged  for  your  purpose ; 
then  filter  or  strain  it  through  a  very  close 
linen  cloth;  put  five  or  six  spoonfuls  of  sift- 
ed sugar  into  the  pan,  dilute  it  with  the 
colored  water,  work  it  well  with  the  bois  a 
tabeller,  and  set  it  over  a  chafing-dish  ;  when 
it  begins  to  boil,  add  two  more  spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  having  worked  it  well,  per- 
fume it  with  some  drops  of  essence  of  roses, 
and  finish  as  directed.  (See  Orange-flow- 
er Drops.) 

ROSSOLS.  Take  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  picked  orange-flowers,  a  pound 
of  musk  roses,  six  drachms  of  cinnamon, 
and  two  of  cloves  (lx>th  bruised);  put  them 
into  a  cucurbite  with  three  gallons  of  pure 
water;  on  distilling  this,  it  will  yield  a  gal- 
lon and  a  half,  in  which  dissolve  twelve 
pounds  of  fine  sugar  broken  up;  add  to  it 
an  equal  quantity  of  spirit  of  jessamine,  col- 
or it  crimson  with  cochineal,  filter  and  bot- 
tle it. 


S. 


SEEDS,  SUGARED.  These  are  done 
in  the  same  manner  as  sugared  almonds. 
The  seeds  most  generally  used  for  this  pur- 
pose are  anise,  cummin,  and  fennel. 

The  l>est  method  of  proceeding  is  as  fol- 
lows: place  a  small  preserving-pan  over  a 
charcoal  fire,  on  the  side  of  which  have  a 
chafing  dish,  on  which  keep  a  pan  with  a 
quantity  of  sugar  boiled  to  lisse;  (this  su- 
gar should  be  kept  quite  hot,  but  not  boil- 
ing) ;  on  the  other  side  have  some  fine  pow- 
der. When  so  far  prepared,  put  your  seeds 
into  the  pan,  and  as  soon  as  they  begin  to 
heat,  pour  over  them  a  large  spoonful  or 
two  of  the  sirup;  stir  them  alxnit,  that  all 
may  be  thoroughly  saturated  with  it;  then 
sprinkle  over  it  a  handful  or  two  of  powder, 
still  shaking  the  pan  to  make  the  seeds 
equally  white.  When  dry,  pour  on  some 
more  simp,  then  the  powder,  and  continue 
this  alternately  until  your  seeds  are  suf- 


ficiently largo;  thon  lay  them  on  a  sieve, 
keep  them  in  a  warm  place  for  some  days, 
after  which  put  them  into  glass  bottles. 

SOUFFLE  FRANCAIS.  Blake  a 
croustade  eleven  inches  in  diameter,  and 
three  and  three-quarters  in  height ;  put 
round  it  three  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  and 
bake  it. 

Take  twelve  glasses  of  boiling  milk,  in 
which  infuse  whatever  ingredients  you  may 
think  pro|x-r,  such  as  vanilla,  coffee,  orange- 
flowers,  kc.  (the  proportions  will  be  found 
under  the  different  articles).  In  the  mean- 
time, wash  a  pound  of  rice  thoroughly  in 
warm  water,  then  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
of  cold  water,  and  when  it  has  Ixiilod  a  few 
minutes,  strain  the  rice,  and  put  it  with 
vout  infusion  into  another  saucepan,  and 
set  it  again  on  the  fire;  as  soon  as  it  boils, 
place  the  saucepan  on  hot  ashes,  that  the 
rice  may  burst  gradually  ;  in  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  add  a  pound  of  powder-sugar, 
three-quartet's  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
and  a  pinch  of  salt,  stir  them  well  in;  put 
fresh  hot  ashes  under  the  saucepan,  that  the 
rice  mav  be  kept  constantly  simmering  for 
an  hour,  by  which  time  it  ought  to  be  per- 
fectly soft,  and  should  lie  nibbed  through  a 
bolting-cloth  quickly,  like  a  puree;  put  this 
into  another  saucepan  over  hot  ashes,  U> 
keep  it  warm.  Take  sixteen  fifgs,  sepa- 
rate the  yolks  and  whites,  lx?at  the  former 
well,  and  whisk  the  latter  till  nearly  firm; 
then  mix  the  yolks  with  the  rice  (taking 
off  the  ashes,)  ;  the  preparation  ought  to  lie 
of  the  same  consistence  as  a  cream  palis- 
siere;  add,  at  first,  a  quarter,  and  after- 
wards the  whole  of  the  whites;  stir  them  in 
as  lightly  as  for  biscuit  paste;  the  whole  be- 
ing thoroughly  amalgamated,  pour  it  into 
the  croustade,  and  place  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  two  hours  and  a  half;  when  done, 
cover  a  baking  tin  with  red  cinders,  on 
which  place  the  souffle  the  moment  it  is 
taken  out  of  the  oven;  this  prevents  its 
falling^  whilst  you  mask  it  with  powder- 
sugar,  and  glaze  with  the  salamander;  car- 
ry it  into  the*  dining-room  on  a  tin,  have  a 
dish  ready  with  a  napkin  folded  on  it; 
place  the  souffle  on  the  dish,  and  let  it  be 
served  immediately.  Remember  that  a 
souffle  cannot  be  served  too  quickly. 

STRAWBERRY,  COMPOTE  OF. 
This  is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  Rasp- 
berries, only  that  the  stnuvlxrries  do  not 
require  being  mixed  with  any  other  fruit. 

STRAWBERRY  CONSERVE.  Take 
some  very  ripe  fresh  strawberries,  pick,  and 
crush  them  through  a  tammy.  For  every 
dessert  spoonful  of  juice,  allow  six  ounces 
of  sugar ;  boil  this  to  fort  perle,  take  it 


SUG 


295 


SUG 


off  die  fire,  and  pour  in  the  juire;  stir  lliem 
together  with  a  silver  spoon,  until  the  con- 
serve begins  to  whiten  and  dry,  then  pat  it 
into  moid  U  or  paper  case*.  If  tin- 
be  too  white,  add  a  little  carmine  to  the 
sirup. 

STRAWBERRY  >I  \  KCI1I' \  M'.. 
Take  twn  pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  two 
(KMiiids  and  a  half  of  sn;,rar.  anil  a  pound  of 
picked  straw  Ix-rries.  Heat  the  almonds  to 
a  fine  |>aste,  and  mix  them  with  tin;  sun-ir 
(Ixiiled  to  petit  boule;)  crush,  ami  strain 
tlw  juice  i.f  tin-  tVnit,  whicli  aild  to  the  al- 
niiiiii)  paste  an  I  simp;  stir  lli<-  mixture  well, 
set  it  on  hot  ashes,  and  continue  still  ing  until 
tin-  pa-le  is  siilticiciitlv  done;  this  inav  1»- 
prmed  li\  laying  a  piece  oo  the  back  «\  u.-nr 
hand;  it'  it  max  !«•  remou-d  without  its 
sticking,  it  is  enough;  when  cold,  spread  it 
in  i-i-  a  >lal>,  and  cut  it  of  any  si/.c  and  shape 
you  think  pro|>er. 

\R.  TO   CI.AKII'V.      T 

ir,  and   biv.ik  it   into   pieces; 
put  into  a  preserving-pan  the   whiv  of  ;m 

.1  glass  o(  pure  spring  water;  mix 
them  \vell  with  a  whisk,  add  another  i;l ass, 
Still  whipping,  until  two  quarts  of  w:ler 
ha\i-  li'-eu  put  in:  ulna  the  pan  is  lull  of 
froth,  throw  in  the  su^:-.r.  .in  I  set  it  on  the 
fire,  U'ing  careful  to  skim  it  every  time  the 
scum  rises,  which  will  l>c  the  case  as  the 

d>  up.  After  a  few  Ixiilinus,  the 
sni;.o-  will  iise  so  high  as  to  run  over  the 

•  the  pan,  to  prevent  whicli,  throw- 
on  it  a  little  cold  water;   this  will  lower  it 
instantly,  and   giu-   time  tor  the  skimming, 

1:11  sh-nild  in  ver  lie  taken  oil'  whilst 

i    is  bubbling;    the  cold   water  stills 

it,  and  that  is  tlie   moment  to  skim  it.      ](<•- 

peat  this   opci  alii  Hi   carel'ullv  thn i    f.ur 

jena  whiti.-h   lijlit   M-II.II  only  will 

•  'i   take   the   pan    oil',  lay  a  napkin, 
netted,  o\er  a   ba.-in,  and  pour  the 

uon:;h  it. 

The  scum  thus  taken  off,  put  into  a  chimi 
basin;    ami  when  the  sugar  is  clarified,  wash 
the   pin   and   the   skimmer   with   a 
water,   which   put   to   the   scum,  and  set   it 
aside  lor  more  common  purposes. 

A  U,  Different  Degree*  of  Pre- 
paring.    The    various  pur|xis<*    to    which 
applied,  require  it  t<i  Ix-  in  dilTeix-nt 
'hese  are   called  degree*,  and  are 
thirl' i-ii  in  luimlx-r,  called  as  follow-: 

Petit  Lisse,  or  First   Degree.      Re- 
place the  clarified  -u^ar  iii  the  p:- 
pan,  to  lx>il  gently,  take  a  drop  of  it  on  the 
thuml),  touch   it  with  the  tore  linger;    if,  on 
opening  them,  it  dr.iw.-  to  a  tine  tin 
in  breaking,  forms  two  drops  on  each  liu_'i  r, 
it  is  at  the  right  point. 


Liise,  Second  Degree.  A  little  more 
boiling  briii.'s  it  to  this  |x>int;  when  the 
thread  will  draw  further  N-l'ore  it  breaks. 

Petit  Perle,  Third  Degree.  At  thia 
point  the  thread  may  lie  drawn  as  far  aa  the 
spin  will  open,  without  hn-akin^. 

Grand  Perle,  Fourth  Degree.  Oo 
still  increasing  the  Ixiiling,  little  raised  balls 
an-  lormed  on  tlie  surface  of  the.-!  j 

Petit  Queue  de  Cockon,  Fifth  Degree. 
Take  up  some  of  the  suijar  on  a  skimmer, 
and  drop  it  on  the  rest,  when  it  should  form 
a  slanting  streak  on  the  .-nrlace.  Boil  it  a 
little  Liimer,  and  it  will  reach  the 

(trn.ide  Queue  de  Cochon,  or  Sixth 
Degree.  The  streak  or  tail  is  now  larger. 

Souffle,  Seventh  Degree.  Take  out  a 
skimmeifi'l  of  the  siiiiar,  blow  through  it, 
and  small  spaiks  of  sn^-ir  will  fly  from  it. 

J'ltit-J'lume,  Eighth  Degree.  The 
same  proof  as  above;  the  sparks  should  be 
larger  and  stronger. 

iiraade  Plume,  Ninth  Degree.  Take 
the  sugar  in  the  skimmer,  as  U-tore,  give  it 
a  shake,  and  if  the  sparks  are  large,  and 
adhere  together  on  rising,  it  is  at  the  right 
point. 

Ptlit  Botilet,  Tenth  Degree.  Dip 
your  lingers  in  cold  water,  and  tlien  into 
instantly,  and  again  into  the  wa- 
ter, when  the  sugar  will  roll  into  a  ball, 
which  will  IN-  supple  when  cold. 

(Vros  Boulet,  Eleventh  Degree.  At 
tin-  point,  the  ball  or  bullet  will  be  harder 
when  cold  than  at  the  last. 

Caste,  Twelfth  Degree.  Prove  as 
above;  the  bullet  should  crumble  between 
the  fingers,  and  on  biting,  will  stick  to  the 
teeth  ;  at  the  next  [xiint, 

Caramel,  Thirteenth  Degree,  It 
should  snap  clean.  This  point  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  attain,  for  in  increasing  the  height, 
the  .-ugar  is  apt  to  burn;  it  is  better  there- 
fore to  try  tlie  proof  \ery  fiei|tiently. 

Another  caramel  is  frei|iientK  used  bv  the 
confectioner,  and  is  of  a  deep  color;  it  id 
made  by  putting  a  little  water  to  tlie  sugar, 
and  Ixiiling  it  without  skimai'm^.  or  other- 
\\i-e  touching  the  sugar,  till  of  the  lii;ht 
color,  then  lake  it  off  and  use  immediately. 

If,  on  preparing  the  sugar,  you  happen  to 
miss  the  ri^hl  point,  add  a  little  cold  water, 
and  Ixiil  once  more. 

Observations. — The     skimmer     should 

never  be  left  in  the  pi  i-scn  ing-pan  after  the 

i  lai  ilied,  nor  after  tlie  scum  is  re- 

I'H  MIV  can  fnl  not  to  stir  or  disturb  the 
sugar,  as  that  would  cause  its  diminution. 

lu  boiling  the  sugar  (parlii  nlai  l\   the  two 
linnally  rising 

and  falling;    and  on  falling,  '. 
the  sides  of  the  pan,  which  the  heal   i.f  the 
fire  would  soon  burn,  and  theu-by  spoil  the 


TR1 


296 


VAN 


whole  of  the  sugar ;  to  avoid  this,  have  by 
the  side  of  you.  a  pan  of  cold  water,  and  a 
sponge,  with  which  wipe  the  sides  of  the 
pan  carefully,  the  instant  after  the  sugar  has 
fallen. 

SUGAR  LIKE  SNOW.  Blanch  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  bitter  almonds,  pound 
them  to  a  yery  fine  paste  in  a  marble  mor- 
tar, with  the  whites  of  four  egg?;  when 
perfectly  smooth,  add  a  pound  of  the  best 
lump  sugar  (in  powder),  and  fiye  or  six 
more  whites  of  eggs;  stir  all  together  well, 
until  of  such  consistence  that  it  may  be 
kneaded  without  adhering  to  the  hands. 
Divide  this  preparation  into  two  parts,  one 
of  which,  tinge  of  a  red  color,  either  with 
bolus  armena,  or  cochineal,  and  perfume  it 
with  essential  oil  of  roses  or  bergamot ; 
leave  the  other  portion  of  paste  white,  but 
flavor  it  as  fullows: — grate  the  rind  of  two 
fine  sound  lemons  on  a  small  piece  of  sugar, 
scrape  off  the  surface,  and  when  pounded  in 
a  small  mortar,  work  it  into  the  uncolored 
portion  <it  sugar-paste,  then  roll  it  out  to  about 
naif  an  inch  in  thickness  (having  previously 
sprinkled  the  slab  with  powder-sugar,)  cut 
it  with  a  tin-paste  cutter  about  two  inches 
diameter;  arrange  I  hem  on  white  paper, 
which  place  on  a  baking  tin,  and  put  them 
into  a  moderate  oven  for  about  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour;  proceed  in  the  same  manner 
with  the  colored  paste.  When  cold,  detach 
them  from  the  paper. 

SUGAR  PASTE.  Take  a  pound  of 
flour,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  one 
egg;  mix  all  together  with  a  little  water. 
This  paste  may  be  used  for  any  second- 
course  dish. 


T. 


TABLET  OF  PATIENCE.  Take 
eight  eggs,  and  whip  the  whites  to  a  firm 
snow ;  in  the  meantime  have  the  yolks 
beaten  up  with  six  ounces  of  powder-sugar; 
(both  these  operations  should  be  performed 
for  at  least  half  an  hour)  ;  then  mix  the  two 
together,  add  six  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  and 
when  well  incorporated,  pour  in  half  a  pint 
of  rose  or  orange-flower  water;  stir  the 
whole  together  for  some  time.  Have  ready 
some  tin  plates,  well  rubbed  with  butter; 
take  a  funnel  that  has  three  or  four  tubes, 
fill  it  with  the  paste,  and  push  out  your 
tablets;  when  ihe  tin  plates  are  full,  put 
them  into  a  prctly  warm  oven.  When  done, 
take  them  from  the  tins  whilst  hot. 

TRIFLE.     (1)     Sweeten  three  pints  of 


cream ;  add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  mountain  wine, 
grate  in  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  squee/e  in  the 
juice,  and  grate  in  half  a  nutmeg ;  whi.-k  this 
up,  lay  the  froth  on  a  large  sieve,  and  the  sieve 
over  a  dish  that  has  ratafia  cakes,  maca- 
roons, sweet  almonds,  blanched  and  pound- 
ed, citron,  and  can. lied  orange-peel,  cut  into 
small  pieces,  some  currant  jelly,  and  rasp- 
berry jam  in  it,  that  the  liquor  may  run 
upon  them ;  when  they  are  soaked,  lay  them 
in  the  dish  you  intend  to  serve  in,  put  on  the 
froth  as  high  as  possible,  well  drained; 
strew  over  nonpareils,  and  stick  on  little 
slices  of  citron,  orange,  or  lemon-peel. 

TRIFLE.  (2)  Lay  some  macaroons 
and  ratafia  drops  over  the  bottom  of  your 
dish,  and  soak  them  well  with  raisin  wine, 
when  soaked,  pour  on  them  a  very  rich  cold 
custard.  It  must  stand  two  or  three  inches 
thick ;  on  that  put  a  layer  of  raspberry  jam, 
and  cover  the  whole  with  a  very  high  whip 
made  the  preceding  day,  of  rich  cream,  the 
whites  of  two  eggs,  well  lieaten,  sugar,  lem- 
on-|>eel,  and  raisin  wine,  well  l>eat  with  a 
whisk.  It  is  best  to  make  it  the  day  before 
it  is  wanted,  being  more  solid  and  better 
tasted. 

TRIFLE.  (3)  Put  half  a  pound  of  maca- 
roons into  a  dish,  pour  over  them  some  white 
wine,  and  a  pint  of  custard  over  that,  make 
a  whip,  and  put  on  it;  garnish  according  to 
your  fancy. 


V. 


VANILLA  CREAM.  Take  two 
drachms  of  vanilla,  a  quart  of  milk,  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  five  ounces  of  sugar,  and 
a  pint  of  cream;  teat  up  the  eggs  well  with 
the  milk,  and  then  add  the  other  ingredients; 
set  the  whole  on  a  moderate  fine,  and  stir  it 
constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  till  the 
cream  will  adhere  to  it;  then  strain,  and 
serve  it  cold. 

VANILLA   CREAM,   BOLTED. 

Take  as  much  cream  as  will  fill  the  mould 
you  intend  to  use,  and  boil  it  up  a  few 
times,  with  the  proportionate  quantities  of 
vanilla  and  sugar;  then  let  it  cool,  and  if 
the  mould  will  contain  a  quart,  mix  twelve 
yolks  and  three  whole  eggs  with  the  cream, 
and  run  it  five  times  through  a  bolting  cloth. 
Butter  the  mould,  pour  the  cream  into  it, 
and  place  it  in  the  bain  marie,  but  not  too 
hot ;  when  the  cream  is  set,  which  you  may 
know  by  touching  it  gently  with  your  finger, 
turn  it  on  a  dish;  take  the  remainder  of 
the  cream,  stir  it  over  the  fire  like  white 


VER 


297 


VIO 


sautr,  and  as  soon  as  it  sticks  to  the  spoon 
(which  must  be  of  wood),  take  it  off,  stir  it 
an  instant.  and  then  |>our  it  over  the  other 
cream,  and  serve  cold. 

VA.MLLA  CREAM  WHIPPED.  Put 
a  pinch  of  gum-dragon  into  a  pint  of  cream, 
add  a  BBall  qnanttty  of  orange-flower  water, 

powder-sugar  to  the  ta«te,  and  a  little  milk, 
in  which  sonic  vanilla  has  l«cn  boiled,  and 
the  milk  strained;  whip  these  in 
with  a  whisk,  until  the  whole  is  sufficiently 
frothed  ;  then  lay  il  carefully  on  a  dish,  in  a 
pyramidal  form,  and  serve  it. 

VANILLA   CREAM  ICE.     Whisk  the 
-  to  a  firm  froth  in  a 

preserving  pan,  pour  on  tliem  the  yolks  of 
eight,  and  a  |w>nnd  of  sifted  sugar,  whip  the 
whole  well  with  a  whisk,  and  pour  in  by  de- 
grees two  quarts  of  boiling  cream;  continue 
to  whip  it  f.r  sonic  little  time,  anil  then  put 
it  on  die  lire,  with  half  an  ounce  of  vanilla 
bruised;  still  whipping,  when  it  has  boiled 
up  three  or  four  times,  strain  it,  and  freeze 
as  usual.  (See  Ice.) 

VANILLA      CREAM     LIQUEUR. 

Dissolve  over  the  fire  two  |>oimds  ten  ounces 
of  broken  sugar,  in  three  pints  of  purified 
river  water;  when  it  has  l«>iled  up  once, 
pour  it  into  a  jar,  on  three  drachms  of  va- 
nilla, cut  in  pieces,  and  half  a  grain  of  amber. 
When  quite  cold,  add  three  pints  of  good 
brandy,  co\er  the  \esnel,  and  when  it  has 
i  it  with  a  little  pre- 
pared cochineal ;  filter,  and  bottle  the  li- 
queur. Cork  the  bottles  tight,  and  seal  die 
corks. 

VANILLA     STICKS.       Take    some 

marchpane  paste,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
chocolate,  and  the  same  of  vanilla;  mix 
••;!  into  the  paste,  and  then  form  it 
into  sticks,  like  the  vanilla  in  its  original 
form;  lay  them  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

VF.I;|)K.  Infuse  the  rind  of  three  lem- 
ons and  four  oranges  in  two  quarts  of  rum 
or  braixK  ,  fur  fun -anil-twenty  hours,  close- 
KfftOpped;  then  s<j'.iee/i:  llie  juice  through 
a  strainer;  if  the  fruit  is  good,  there  will  U- 
half  a  pint,  and  if  there  is  not  so  much,  make 
it  that;  add  to  il  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
sugar,  pour  to  it  three  quarts  of  water,  and 
keep  stirring  till  all  the  ^u^ar  is  dissolved; 
when  it  is  dissolved,  stir  in  the  peel  and 
spirits,  and  then  one  pint  of  en], I  new  milk; 
pass  it  through  a  bag  till  clear;  bottle  it. 
It  will  keep  good  for  twelve  mouths. 

VERJl'ICE.  (1)  Verjuice  is  the  young, 
unripe,  and  sour  grape;  it  is  frequently 


used  in  French  cookery,  but  yery  rarely  put 
into  English  dishes. 

VERJUICE.  (2)  Take  some  crab 
apples  when  the  kernels  turn  black,  lay  them 
in  a  heap  to  sweat;  then  pick  them  from 
the  stalks  and  rottenness,  beat  them  to  a 
mash,  and  press  the  juice  through  a  bag  of 
coarse  hair  cloth  into  a  clean  vessel;  it  will 
be  lit  for  use  in  a  month's  time.  If  inten- 
ded for  white  pickles,  distil  it  in  a  cold  still. 
It  may  be  put  into  sauces  when  lemon  is 
wanting. 

VESPETRO.  Take  half  a  [xmnd  of 
each  of  die  following  seeds:  angelica,  cori- 
ander, fennel,  and  caraway,  the  rinds  of 
four  lemons,  and  as  many  oranges,  infuse  all 
these  in  two  gallons  and  a  half  of  the  best 
brandy,  close  the  vessel  hermetically.  In 
five  days  time,  distil  it  in  the  bain  marie 
alembic,  and  draw  from  the  alxive  ciirautity 
five  quarts  of  liqueur.  Dissolve  seven 
pounds  of  sugar  in  a  gallon  of  pure  river 
water ;  add  this  sirup  to  the  liqueur,  filter, 
and  bottle  it. 

VIOLETS    CANDIED.     Pick  off  die 

green  stalks  from  some  double  violets;  boil 
.-iime  sugar  to  souffle;  put  in  the  violets-, 
and  Keep  diem  in  till  die  sugar  again  boils 
to  souffle;  then  nib  the  sugar  against  the 
sides  of  the  pan  until  it  is  white;  stir  all 
together  till  the  sugar  leaves  the  violets,  and 
(hen  sift  and  dry  them. 

VIOLETS     TO     ROCK     CANDY. 

Pick  the  leaves  off  die  violets;  then  boil 
some  of  the  Itest,  and  finest  sugar  to  souffle, 
pour  it  into  a  candying-pan  made  of  tin,  in 
the  firm  ofadri|>ping-|>an,ahout  three  inches 
deep;  then  strew  die  violet  leaves  as  thick 
as  possible  on  the  top,  and  put  it  into  a  hot 
stove,  in  which  let  it  remain  for  ten  days; 
when  it  is  hard  candied,  break  a  hole  in  one 
corner  of  it,  and  drain  oil'  all  die  sirup; 
break  it  out,  and  place  it  in  heaps  upon  a 
tin  to  dry  in  a  stove. 

VIOLETS,  CONSERVE  OF.    Take 

a  quarter  of  a  |xuind  of  early  violets,  picked; 
bruise  them  in  a  mortar;  boil  two  pounds 
of  sugar  to  casse,  take  it  off,  put  in  the  pulp, 
and  mix  them  togedier  over  die  fire,  and 
when  the  sugar  bubbles  up,  pour  die  conserve 
into  the  moulds. 

VIOLET  DROPS.  (1)  Take  a  cer- 
tain quantity  of  sirup  of  violets,  which  mix 
with  an  equal  portion  of  water;  use  this 
mixture,  and  make  your  drops  precisely  as 
directed.  You  may,  if  you  please,  |>erfume 
it  widi  oil  of  violets,  but  that  is  not  neces- 
sary, as  die  sirup,  imparts  sufficient  odour 


VIO 


298 


WOR 


VIOLET  DROPS.  (2)  Take  the 
juice  of  six  lemons,  mix  with  it  some  finely 
sifted  powdered  sugar,  and  two  spoonfuls 
of  essence  of  violets,  and  color  it  of  a  fine 
blue  color;  mix  the  whole  well  together, 
and  dry  it  over  the  fire,  the  same  as  all  oth- 
ers, and  drop  them  oft  a  knife  on  paper,  the 
usual  si/.e  of  drops ;  let  them  stand  till  cold, 
be  careful  that  your  mixture  is  not  too  thin; 
when  (lie  drops  are  cold,  put  them  into  pa- 
pered boxes. 

VIOLETS,  MARMALADE  OF.  Take 
three  pounds  of  violets,  and  four  pounds  of 
suifar,  put  the  former  into  a  mortar  and 
bniisc  lliem  to  a  pulp;  in  the  meantime  boil 
the  sugar  to  souffle,  then  add  (he  flowers; 
stir  them  together,  add  two  pounds  of  apple 
marmalade,  and  when  it  has  boiled  up  a 
few  times,  put  the  marmalade  into  pots. 

VIOLETS,  SIRUP  OF.  Pound  very 
lightly  in  a  marble  mortar,  and  with  a 
pestle,  one  pound  of  picked  violets; 
warm  gradually  n  glass,  or  earlhenware  ves- 
sel with  a  small  opening,  into  which  put  the 
pounded  flowers,  and  pour  over  them  two 
pounds  of  boiling  water;  dose  (he  ve^el 
hermetically,  and  place  it  on  hot  ashes,  re- 
newing them  when  necessary,  to  keep  up  an 


equal  temperature  for  twelve  hours;  after 
that  time  pass  the  whole  through  a  close 
cloth,  squeezing  it  well;  let  it  stand  for  half 
an  hour;  then  pour  it  oflFvery  carefully,  that 
all  the  sediment  may  remain  at  the  bottom; 
weigh  it,  and  the  above  quantities  will  have 
yielded  seventeen  ounces;  put  into  a  matrass 
two  pounds  of  cruched  sugar  with  the  infu- 
sion, close  the  matrass  tight,  and  set  it  in 
the  bain  marie,  over  a  moderate  fire  ;  .-hake 
it  occasionally  to  accelerate  the  dissolution 
of  the  sugar,  and  when  perfectly  dissolved, 
let  the  (ire  go  out  and  the  matrass  cool  grad- 
ually. When  cold,  pour  the  sirup  into 
bottles. 


W. 

WORMWOOD  CREME  LIQUEUR. 

Oislil  in  the  hain-nttirie  the  zests  of  two 
oranges,  and  half  a  pound  of  fresh  gathered 
wormwood  tops,  in  a  gallon  of  brandy, 
which  will  produce  nearly  half  the  quantity 
of  liqueur.  Dissolve  four  pounds  of  sugar 
in  as  many  pints  of  filtered  river  water;  mix 
tliis  sirup  with  the  liqueur;  run  it  through 
a  jelly -bag,  and  bottle  it. 


receipts  for  Confectionery  may  be  found  in  the  first 
part  of  this  Book . 


